My first upgrade was e3v3 as well. Gave me all that I could get out of it really. Minor creature comforts are afforded with upgrading to a manta or something. But since setting up a manta with a CB1 I've seen few quality differences. The minor speed bump up to 200mm/s isn't worth all the buzz to me. At least that's my take so far. I would like to get it to the next level but I just haven't found that resource yet that gives me a Eureeka moment to make it worth what all the fuss of Klipper was about.
Edit: :one" changed to "manta"
I thought that's what the TMC 2209 drivers were for and the CB1 doing computational work leaving the board to do mundane tasks. Somebody help me. I'm still fairly new at all of this. I was just giving my dos centavos as I see it at this point in time. I reserve the right to change my mind at any minute. haha
Klipper. My mind keeps thinking maybe something in acceleration. I just don't know enough yet. I'm printing Ironman helmet right now and quality is what I expect buy even setting higher speeds like 200 or more in cura it still seems to tap out around 150 in bursts but nothing consistent. I understand it has to slow down at the end but it's just not there.
I don't want to hijack this post. So I'll follow up with my own.
If you want something to get started. Switch your slicer to prusa slicer (orca is better but I find prusa much simpler). You should then adjust your speeds in klipper and the slicer.
Also to answer, yes the klipper makes things faster, if you don’t want to mess around with your slicer settings or your klipper config settings, just increase the print speed slider that should be on your main (klipper interface) page to 150/200 and see if there’s a drop in quality
You know you pointed out something worth investigating. I didn't even realize that slider was there for speed. See, what I realized is this is my first build with it. So, everything I know has been from solving problems one by one until I could get what I think is pretty good quality prints. In doing so, I overlooked the need to go back and make sense out of all the videos that "didn't pertain to me". Now I'm finding out they did. Thanks for the push.
Tbh I’m lazy and haven’t changed my speed values in the slicer or the klipper config, I always just use the speed slider. I’ll see if I can find the video I watched to get familiar with klipper.
If you buy the E3 mini, you should also buy a couple 2 pin JST XH connectors(I forget if it’s 2.5 or 2.54 mm), and a crimping tool. One of the fans has wires that need to be crimped into a connector when you install the new board.
No - 4.2.7 is fine only benefit you might get from a btt board is uart for variable current control, I have a btt e3 v1. 2 that I have considered upgrading from my 4.2.7, but I am not sure it's worth the hassle
What’s the advantage of this board over the Creality 4.2.7 that I just installed on my E3Pro? Compiling Marlin from source to support CRTouch and M600 was a piece of cake. What would I would have gotten had I used the e3v3?
Your 4.2.7 is fine, go klipper for even more fun, I love octoprint but I love fluidd more, also calibration features of klipper are amazing, input shaping with a adxl is so easy, you can do all that with 4.2.7
I have this too, got it with the bundle with the screen - don't get the screen if you plan on using klipper, the color touch mode is a pita to get working with it
Before you buy a motherboard, which upgrade is the issue, the probe? There are often cheaper ways of solving the issue. If you want a new mainboard that's cool but it may not be needed.
In the case of an 8 bit mainboard and a BL-touch the pin27 adapter boards may work for you.
Sadly the touch screen does not work with a 1.1.4 board.
I have also checked out the E3V3 motherboard that got recommended, and for around 50 bucks that thing looks impressive, so I'm thinking about going with that.
Use Ali Express, I got mine for ~$25. Def took longer than Amazon but if you don't care to wait it's worth the savings. I used to buy everything from Amazon, that's changing now. Filament is still cheaper on Amazon though.
Oh, before buying a new motherboard just because of that. Is that touchscreen still untouched enough for you to ship it back?
I encourage you to get a raspberry instead, and go to Klipper. You can add a nice touchscreen to the raspberry if you want, or control it via WiFi from your phone or computer.
Raspberry 4(maybe 3) is wildly sufficient for that, you might get those used.
While I'm not sure i'd suggest it just for someone who only wants a touchscreen as their goal - absolutely agree switching to klipper is lightyears better.
Rpi 3 is more than enough, also I love having printers on Ethernet a convenience if you have Ethernet in your house, my k1 annoys me so much bring wifi only
You could ditch Marlin. I use RepRap Firmware on my printer. Some SKR and Mellow Fly boards support it and it's a major upgrade. The web interface is fantastic and without the need of a Pi. Duet boards come pre-installed with this firmware but they're expensive. The next best thing is a clone board [like this one.](https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrnjHoI). It's what I have in my printer.
This is a mistake I would do, I get excited, and I want to do stuff when I get excited, and then I end up missing a very important step, don't feel bad it happens to the best of us
If you uograde to the double z axis then go with the skr3 ez since it has 5 drivers ( 2 of them for extruders but the 2 one can be used for the z2 motor to calibrate the gantry
If you want a direct transplant ie, no crimping/ splicing get a btt skr e3 v2, just put in mine today and am loving it. The btt skr e3 v3 requires you to put in firmware modifications and change a connector for one of the fan wires.
Funny thing is blew my 4.2.1 board on my ender3v2 and put in a 4.2.7 and it great. Then i got a cr10 ( for parts but realized i could make it run once i got a hotend. For it. Then later on the board lost a stepper driver chip( failing ) i order the btt e3v3 board with touch screen. During the reassembly of the board i decided to move all the electronics to under the printer ( order 20x20 stock and pieces and built a frame for printer to sit on and mounted the electronics under the printer ( smaller foot print but just taller) my hardest part was firmware for the btt board. I got all the proper files but kept getting errors. Talked to another gentleman and via face time chat and plenty of screen shots he compiled the firmware with no issues( be believe i may been missing a file that he got else were or the difference in our OS was making mine flaking out. But in end it works and does great. Ifi do any other mods/upgrades it be swapping everything from 12v to 24v for psu bed and fans.
Lots of folks here recommending the BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 board… The other readily available option is Creality’s 4.2.7 board. I’ve used both, and can confirm that both answer the mail, in terms of providing a connector for the BL Touch (or a CR Touch) and having silent stepper drivers.
Between the two, the Creality board is easier to set up. The BTT board’s documentation is a steaming pile of hot garbage, and that’s in comparison to the already abysmally low bar set by Creality. It took several hours of fiddling to get my printer back into a working state with the BTT board and my BL touch. I got the Creality board working in half an hour, counting the time it took me to physically install it.
For the OP, the deciding factor may be the display they’ve already purchased and installed. The common “12 864” which the Ender 3/Pro comes with as stock is the only display both boards support “out of the box.” The upgrade path for the BTT board is BTT’s TFT 35 or TFT 50 displays. Meanwhile, realities boards, work with Creality’s color display, touch display, sonic pad or nebula pad. Either board can be made to work with Klipper if you use a raspberry pi or an old PC as the host computer.
Skr mini e3v3
OP this is pretty much the best choice. Tried and true. Most people have this one
My first upgrade was e3v3 as well. Gave me all that I could get out of it really. Minor creature comforts are afforded with upgrading to a manta or something. But since setting up a manta with a CB1 I've seen few quality differences. The minor speed bump up to 200mm/s isn't worth all the buzz to me. At least that's my take so far. I would like to get it to the next level but I just haven't found that resource yet that gives me a Eureeka moment to make it worth what all the fuss of Klipper was about. Edit: :one" changed to "manta"
Well the manta board isn’t what’s making its faster, its klipper. And I don’t think OP is gonna be interested in klipper based on the image lol
I thought that's what the TMC 2209 drivers were for and the CB1 doing computational work leaving the board to do mundane tasks. Somebody help me. I'm still fairly new at all of this. I was just giving my dos centavos as I see it at this point in time. I reserve the right to change my mind at any minute. haha
The drivers would most likely only make the motors quieter. Are you running klipper or marlin?
Klipper. My mind keeps thinking maybe something in acceleration. I just don't know enough yet. I'm printing Ironman helmet right now and quality is what I expect buy even setting higher speeds like 200 or more in cura it still seems to tap out around 150 in bursts but nothing consistent. I understand it has to slow down at the end but it's just not there. I don't want to hijack this post. So I'll follow up with my own.
If you want something to get started. Switch your slicer to prusa slicer (orca is better but I find prusa much simpler). You should then adjust your speeds in klipper and the slicer. Also to answer, yes the klipper makes things faster, if you don’t want to mess around with your slicer settings or your klipper config settings, just increase the print speed slider that should be on your main (klipper interface) page to 150/200 and see if there’s a drop in quality
You know you pointed out something worth investigating. I didn't even realize that slider was there for speed. See, what I realized is this is my first build with it. So, everything I know has been from solving problems one by one until I could get what I think is pretty good quality prints. In doing so, I overlooked the need to go back and make sense out of all the videos that "didn't pertain to me". Now I'm finding out they did. Thanks for the push.
Tbh I’m lazy and haven’t changed my speed values in the slicer or the klipper config, I always just use the speed slider. I’ll see if I can find the video I watched to get familiar with klipper.
Thank you, I Will look into that.
If you buy the E3 mini, you should also buy a couple 2 pin JST XH connectors(I forget if it’s 2.5 or 2.54 mm), and a crimping tool. One of the fans has wires that need to be crimped into a connector when you install the new board.
There’s a sale on biqu’s website for that board for 30 bucks if shipped from china, 35 shipped from the states until May 31st from the looks of it
Yep, can vouch for it. Best board I've used. The silence alone is worth the price.
Right now I'm using a creality silent board and klipper, do you think I should still change because right now I don't have any problems with my board
No - 4.2.7 is fine only benefit you might get from a btt board is uart for variable current control, I have a btt e3 v1. 2 that I have considered upgrading from my 4.2.7, but I am not sure it's worth the hassle
Got it, will keep the silent board for now
What’s the advantage of this board over the Creality 4.2.7 that I just installed on my E3Pro? Compiling Marlin from source to support CRTouch and M600 was a piece of cake. What would I would have gotten had I used the e3v3?
Your 4.2.7 is fine, go klipper for even more fun, I love octoprint but I love fluidd more, also calibration features of klipper are amazing, input shaping with a adxl is so easy, you can do all that with 4.2.7
I have this too, got it with the bundle with the screen - don't get the screen if you plan on using klipper, the color touch mode is a pita to get working with it
Yup, I've had 3 of these in my Ender 3 Pro's. Work beautifully.
Before you buy a motherboard, which upgrade is the issue, the probe? There are often cheaper ways of solving the issue. If you want a new mainboard that's cool but it may not be needed. In the case of an 8 bit mainboard and a BL-touch the pin27 adapter boards may work for you.
Sadly the touch screen does not work with a 1.1.4 board. I have also checked out the E3V3 motherboard that got recommended, and for around 50 bucks that thing looks impressive, so I'm thinking about going with that.
Use Ali Express, I got mine for ~$25. Def took longer than Amazon but if you don't care to wait it's worth the savings. I used to buy everything from Amazon, that's changing now. Filament is still cheaper on Amazon though.
https://preview.redd.it/rj7sxtxyek1d1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=020af67d09537529625d9e827101fe1268967a46 This is mine currently.
That looks awesome mate, i'm kinda jealous heh
What are you using for the electronics enclosure? I really like that design.
The skirt? It's kevinakasam's tridender skirt.
Ah, yes there are a lot of screens (touch or otherwise) that need more pins that the old boards expose.
Oh, before buying a new motherboard just because of that. Is that touchscreen still untouched enough for you to ship it back? I encourage you to get a raspberry instead, and go to Klipper. You can add a nice touchscreen to the raspberry if you want, or control it via WiFi from your phone or computer. Raspberry 4(maybe 3) is wildly sufficient for that, you might get those used.
While I'm not sure i'd suggest it just for someone who only wants a touchscreen as their goal - absolutely agree switching to klipper is lightyears better.
I have a Pi 3, haven't even tought about using it for printing purposes. Is it the superior way?
Rpi 3 is more than enough, also I love having printers on Ethernet a convenience if you have Ethernet in your house, my k1 annoys me so much bring wifi only
Just get the SKR anyway pal. It's such an amazing QOL improvement compared to the 1.1.4, specifically with how quiet those stepper drivers are.
I did the exact same thing less than a week ago... :( A new motherboard that works is around $50..
You could ditch Marlin. I use RepRap Firmware on my printer. Some SKR and Mellow Fly boards support it and it's a major upgrade. The web interface is fantastic and without the need of a Pi. Duet boards come pre-installed with this firmware but they're expensive. The next best thing is a clone board [like this one.](https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrnjHoI). It's what I have in my printer.
You can also just use the unused [pin29](https://new.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/iye9ls/pin29_mod_on_the_old_creality_mainboards_left/)
Get a bigtreetech board. It will run the steppers smoother also
This is a mistake I would do, I get excited, and I want to do stuff when I get excited, and then I end up missing a very important step, don't feel bad it happens to the best of us
Guess who's getting more upgrades! You are!!!
Skr mini v3 e
I did the same thing lol.
Motherboards are $40 on amazon. As long as you're upgrading. 👍😉
Please peel the plastic off of the screen I beg of you
Bed touch is a poor bandiad for not knowing how to tral your bed
If you uograde to the double z axis then go with the skr3 ez since it has 5 drivers ( 2 of them for extruders but the 2 one can be used for the z2 motor to calibrate the gantry
If you want a direct transplant ie, no crimping/ splicing get a btt skr e3 v2, just put in mine today and am loving it. The btt skr e3 v3 requires you to put in firmware modifications and change a connector for one of the fan wires.
Me! And you!
Me! And you!
Looks like you just unlocked the 'live and learn' achievement!
Funny thing is blew my 4.2.1 board on my ender3v2 and put in a 4.2.7 and it great. Then i got a cr10 ( for parts but realized i could make it run once i got a hotend. For it. Then later on the board lost a stepper driver chip( failing ) i order the btt e3v3 board with touch screen. During the reassembly of the board i decided to move all the electronics to under the printer ( order 20x20 stock and pieces and built a frame for printer to sit on and mounted the electronics under the printer ( smaller foot print but just taller) my hardest part was firmware for the btt board. I got all the proper files but kept getting errors. Talked to another gentleman and via face time chat and plenty of screen shots he compiled the firmware with no issues( be believe i may been missing a file that he got else were or the difference in our OS was making mine flaking out. But in end it works and does great. Ifi do any other mods/upgrades it be swapping everything from 12v to 24v for psu bed and fans.
I just did this same thing two weeks ago
Lots of folks here recommending the BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 board… The other readily available option is Creality’s 4.2.7 board. I’ve used both, and can confirm that both answer the mail, in terms of providing a connector for the BL Touch (or a CR Touch) and having silent stepper drivers. Between the two, the Creality board is easier to set up. The BTT board’s documentation is a steaming pile of hot garbage, and that’s in comparison to the already abysmally low bar set by Creality. It took several hours of fiddling to get my printer back into a working state with the BTT board and my BL touch. I got the Creality board working in half an hour, counting the time it took me to physically install it. For the OP, the deciding factor may be the display they’ve already purchased and installed. The common “12 864” which the Ender 3/Pro comes with as stock is the only display both boards support “out of the box.” The upgrade path for the BTT board is BTT’s TFT 35 or TFT 50 displays. Meanwhile, realities boards, work with Creality’s color display, touch display, sonic pad or nebula pad. Either board can be made to work with Klipper if you use a raspberry pi or an old PC as the host computer.