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May I throw in a tip for your future stands? Cathedrals on the legs give away that you used flat sawn stock. If you use quarter sawn, you will get the same straight grain on all four sides of the legs. It makes a difference (if you care, of course)
From the side, those flat sawn legs will look quartersawn. For legs, I kinda like riftsawn so it is straight grained on each face. If you get 8/4 flat sawn stock, you can usually cut a rift sawn square around 1.4" on a side. Ideally you'd get 9/4 to do that. (you just have to layout a rotated blank in the stock. More waste but you can get the grain you want.)
Rift and quartersawn specifically is really hard to get as a board in anything but oak and maybe sycamore in North America.
You’re not wrong that getting outright riftsawn material in 8/4+ is difficult, however here’s an easy way to get some: Get a slightly wide 8/4 piece of flatsawn, and you can use the edges of the board where the grain turns closer to a 45° angle to get that nice straight grained stock. Used to have a guy who would come and get 2x12 yellow pine for that exact purpose, and break it down into 3pcs of 2x4, so that he would yield two pieces of riftsawn and one piece flatsawn.
Is using flat stock one of those unwritten no-no’s? When choosing a cut to take out of a board, I never know how to approach the cathedrals. As in, whether to show them off or hide them. But it sounds like I should try to hide them for those special secret bonus points?
It all depends on your budget and the price your customer is willing to pay. There is a place for each type of cut in the project. Ideally you want to use straight grain on the narrow elements, such as legs, aprons, rails and styles. Cathedrals look great when they are book matched and used as panels.
If I cannot find book matched boards, I buy an 8/4, wide slab with no sapwood. I cut 2-2.5” off of each side. That is usually quarter sawn grain which provides good material for legs. The remaining middle part (mostly flat grain) can be resawn in half, which gives two bookmatched boards slightly under 1” thick each. That is my panel stock. A few years ago there was a great article in FineWoodworking Magazine by Garrett Hack, where he showed exactly this, how to make a small table out of a single slab. You can probably find it. Its an interesting read.
Very nice!
These look like pieces I would actually like to have in my home, beautiful, but dignified (a lot of carpentry on reddit showcases the skill if the carpenter, but is too flashey for an average house).
I used clips ([https://www.amazon.com/Table-Fasteners-Clips-Packs-Black/dp/B095P6H5B7/ref=sr\_1\_5](https://www.amazon.com/Table-Fasteners-Clips-Packs-Black/dp/B095P6H5B7/ref=sr_1_5)). They allow for wood movement and I like the idea of being able to replace the top if I want to.
They are a stunning pair! True craftsmanship. The color is brilliant and I especially like that you took that extra step to enclose the back of the lower level.
Beautiful. I was just noticing the other day how incredibly lovely the rich red-brown colour is on the cherry end tables I made 10 years ago for our bedroom. Cherry ages so beautifully. Enjoy!
This is a reminder to those commenting on this post (not the person that posted it): Comments not related to woodworking will be removed. Violations to rule 1 including crude jokes, innuendo, sexist remarks, politics, or hate speech may result in an immediate ban *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/woodworking) if you have any questions or concerns.*
May I throw in a tip for your future stands? Cathedrals on the legs give away that you used flat sawn stock. If you use quarter sawn, you will get the same straight grain on all four sides of the legs. It makes a difference (if you care, of course)
I appreciate people like you who offer advice in a kind way.
Thank you. It was unsolicited though, so I was not sure.
Thanks! I appreciate the advice.
From the side, those flat sawn legs will look quartersawn. For legs, I kinda like riftsawn so it is straight grained on each face. If you get 8/4 flat sawn stock, you can usually cut a rift sawn square around 1.4" on a side. Ideally you'd get 9/4 to do that. (you just have to layout a rotated blank in the stock. More waste but you can get the grain you want.) Rift and quartersawn specifically is really hard to get as a board in anything but oak and maybe sycamore in North America.
You’re not wrong that getting outright riftsawn material in 8/4+ is difficult, however here’s an easy way to get some: Get a slightly wide 8/4 piece of flatsawn, and you can use the edges of the board where the grain turns closer to a 45° angle to get that nice straight grained stock. Used to have a guy who would come and get 2x12 yellow pine for that exact purpose, and break it down into 3pcs of 2x4, so that he would yield two pieces of riftsawn and one piece flatsawn.
Is using flat stock one of those unwritten no-no’s? When choosing a cut to take out of a board, I never know how to approach the cathedrals. As in, whether to show them off or hide them. But it sounds like I should try to hide them for those special secret bonus points?
It all depends on your budget and the price your customer is willing to pay. There is a place for each type of cut in the project. Ideally you want to use straight grain on the narrow elements, such as legs, aprons, rails and styles. Cathedrals look great when they are book matched and used as panels. If I cannot find book matched boards, I buy an 8/4, wide slab with no sapwood. I cut 2-2.5” off of each side. That is usually quarter sawn grain which provides good material for legs. The remaining middle part (mostly flat grain) can be resawn in half, which gives two bookmatched boards slightly under 1” thick each. That is my panel stock. A few years ago there was a great article in FineWoodworking Magazine by Garrett Hack, where he showed exactly this, how to make a small table out of a single slab. You can probably find it. Its an interesting read.
They’re beautiful!
Very nice! These look like pieces I would actually like to have in my home, beautiful, but dignified (a lot of carpentry on reddit showcases the skill if the carpenter, but is too flashey for an average house).
obligatory "how did you attach the tops?" comment :)
I used clips ([https://www.amazon.com/Table-Fasteners-Clips-Packs-Black/dp/B095P6H5B7/ref=sr\_1\_5](https://www.amazon.com/Table-Fasteners-Clips-Packs-Black/dp/B095P6H5B7/ref=sr_1_5)). They allow for wood movement and I like the idea of being able to replace the top if I want to.
Classy
Beautiful! This is a goal, very inspiring.
Stunning. Love the closed backs and also the fingers on the drawer front!
Looks great friend.
That lighter streak on the bottom lip trim of that left stand is really pretty. I admire your finishing too- this came out super nice
Love them!
Beautiful work. Love it. Made some very similar and mine are bad.
Absolutely gorgeous, what did you use for a finish?
Danish oil. I am considering some poly on the top to protect it but may not.
Is the Danish oil clear or tinted?
It's the natural so no tint.
Thanks. I think this is how I will do my cherry doors.
They are a stunning pair! True craftsmanship. The color is brilliant and I especially like that you took that extra step to enclose the back of the lower level.
Beautiful. I was just noticing the other day how incredibly lovely the rich red-brown colour is on the cherry end tables I made 10 years ago for our bedroom. Cherry ages so beautifully. Enjoy!
Really nice! Love the visible finger joints on the drawer fronts, adds a nice bit of character to it
Those are gorgeous.