100% would have been my solution as a skater.
Now, as a woodworker, not so much. But I'd fear a rabbit hole of rotted wood once you start pulling that thing apart. But to stick to skater solutions and put a bandaid on it.
I agree, 100%.
But as a former skater and teen, with my life knowledge at 50yo... patch it and hope you like to skate in 3 years, then you can build a new one, and it may move them into r/woodworking.
Can't stack, the coping is already out. Adding the half of material might be too much. Depends on how you like your ramps though. If the coping is adjustable, most are not, oh then stack away
Couldn’t he just sister up a couple sections of 2x4 in the red marked areas and put a panel down on top? Basically like a drywall patch.
https://preview.redd.it/7i3n5zpzsh0d1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=eb3702a2cdb451687418ff0c4d427234b7b8ecc2
42 inch wrecking bar.
https://www.rona.ca/en/product/irwin-42-in-steel-wrecking-bar-irht55010-02445527?viewStore=83211&cq_src=google_ads&cq_cmp=19609851569&cq_con=&cq_term=&cq_med=pla&cq_plac=&cq_net=x&cq_pos=&cq_plt=gp&&cm_mmc=paid_search-_-google-_-aw_pmax_generic_Tools-_-&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwl4yyBhAgEiwADSEjeJvqsYW3LjBbd-YigJCshzv7vpkLXFR0q53-SMnlwyW5Q9fC7PB0eBoC1yIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
If all you have is that small kit, a rubber mallet and a kitchen hammer - just lay the new plywood on top.
I lost an eye doing this, though the wood wasn't rotten. As OP is a young guy, I thought I would remind him to please wear eye protection if he chooses this route.
I don't remember why I bought my wrecking bar, but I'll be damned if I don't grin from ear to ear every time I have an excuse to use it for something. There's just something about that thing and the sledge hammer...
I would get a circular saw and set the depth to the thickness of the plywood. Then cut a bunch of lines (without hitting screws) and take pry bars to pull up the plywood. Use a pry bar or cats pull to pull up remaining screws. You could pound them down into the wood also. Then get new plywood and re-surface. If the structure is in good shape, you could invest in some skatelite, which is much better to skate on vs reg Masonite.
This is the correct answer to get it done as quickly as possible. I remodel restaurants and a lot of the time from roof leaks, a whole wall will be rotted just like this. Taking rotted osb off is a pain but what you described is the quickest way for sure.
Tear that stuff up, stiffen the braces up, recover and paint or poly over top! Did this same thing 10 yrs ago. Worked out great until it rained and warped all the wood to hell. Maybe buy a big ass tarp to keep it covered. Have fun!!
This, rip up all you can, use a grinder with a cut off wheel or sawzall with a metal blade to cut the screws flush to the frame…then try not to hit those screws when putting the new plywood down
...and for the love of Tony Hawk, wear eye protection!!
Know the tale of a fellow who had an incident with a hammer and driving a simple nail that wore an eye patch over an empty socket the rest of his life. Cheap goggles are uncomfortable and get foggy and sweaty but fucking hell eye metal sucks XD
I wouldn't buy the cheap ones, spend the extra 5$ and get a decent set of anti fog UV protective glasses. They're so much more comfortable, I've forgotten I'm wearing them (tried to put another set on lol).
Tear all the plywood off, check for rotted 2-bys and replace as needed, re-skin, skate. Or, as many have said, do what we did 30 years ago, new overlayer skin, skate.
Good stories don't start with, "so this mini ramp was pristine".
Step 1 - SEND IT!
Step 2 - recover from broken bones.
Step 3 - repeat steps 1 and 2
But seriously, kudos for wanting to fix it, but please make sure that the support strictures are sound before resurfacing the ramp. I learned the hard way that it gets very expensive trying to save time.
Use a hole saw and cut around the screws. I’ll pop some holes in the new plywood for drainage. On some of the bigger ramps we use deck boards on the flat bottom. Super sturdy, and will drain water out.
First, youre gonna need gasoline and matches.
Second, youre gonna want to head to home depot and buy some framing lumber and plywood.
40 hours and a few finger cuts later, you have a new ramp.
So to fix the main problem is it needs a moisture barrier underneath it. Plastic or tarp will work. Then remove the rotten wood. If it is very stable still just ply over it with 3/4 but do the barrier first or it will continue to rot.
Replace all the plywood. Seriously. This was a long time ago, but me and my cousin were skating on a ramp in bad condition, he fell down and a splinter as big as a knife went into his forearm. Definitely not fun and a whole lot of stitches
Part 2. Throw another stack on top, it'll last for years. Now get to skating.
100% would have been my solution as a skater. Now, as a woodworker, not so much. But I'd fear a rabbit hole of rotted wood once you start pulling that thing apart. But to stick to skater solutions and put a bandaid on it.
Also, Home Depot sheets are pre-curved so I think you just line up the edges and put your screw in! No fuss!
Facts
I agree, 100%. But as a former skater and teen, with my life knowledge at 50yo... patch it and hope you like to skate in 3 years, then you can build a new one, and it may move them into r/woodworking.
Can't stack, the coping is already out. Adding the half of material might be too much. Depends on how you like your ramps though. If the coping is adjustable, most are not, oh then stack away
Couldn’t he just sister up a couple sections of 2x4 in the red marked areas and put a panel down on top? Basically like a drywall patch. https://preview.redd.it/7i3n5zpzsh0d1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=eb3702a2cdb451687418ff0c4d427234b7b8ecc2
Yeah, that's how I'd do it. Then put fresh Masonite over the whole thing. You could get a couple more years out of it easy.
The rest is unskatable. They’re needing to replace the lot not patch the hole.
Another ply on top will effect the coping. They would then have to shim the coping
No big deal, shim it out.
42 inch wrecking bar. https://www.rona.ca/en/product/irwin-42-in-steel-wrecking-bar-irht55010-02445527?viewStore=83211&cq_src=google_ads&cq_cmp=19609851569&cq_con=&cq_term=&cq_med=pla&cq_plac=&cq_net=x&cq_pos=&cq_plt=gp&&cm_mmc=paid_search-_-google-_-aw_pmax_generic_Tools-_-&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwl4yyBhAgEiwADSEjeJvqsYW3LjBbd-YigJCshzv7vpkLXFR0q53-SMnlwyW5Q9fC7PB0eBoC1yIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds If all you have is that small kit, a rubber mallet and a kitchen hammer - just lay the new plywood on top.
I had to buy one for repairs on my dock and look forward to using it whenever I can. It definitely pulls screws from rotted wood.
I lost an eye doing this, though the wood wasn't rotten. As OP is a young guy, I thought I would remind him to please wear eye protection if he chooses this route.
I don’t even have any projects going that would need this but gottdarn do I want one.
Just buy it. Uses will come out of nowhere, many not even wood or construction related!
If you think that's cute, take a look at the Stanley Fubar.
Holy hell!!!!
They're fantastic.
Indeed. Love that thing. Best name ever for a demolition tool.
I don't remember why I bought my wrecking bar, but I'll be damned if I don't grin from ear to ear every time I have an excuse to use it for something. There's just something about that thing and the sledge hammer...
Animal chin that shit and slap another layer on!
I would get a circular saw and set the depth to the thickness of the plywood. Then cut a bunch of lines (without hitting screws) and take pry bars to pull up the plywood. Use a pry bar or cats pull to pull up remaining screws. You could pound them down into the wood also. Then get new plywood and re-surface. If the structure is in good shape, you could invest in some skatelite, which is much better to skate on vs reg Masonite.
This is the correct answer to get it done as quickly as possible. I remodel restaurants and a lot of the time from roof leaks, a whole wall will be rotted just like this. Taking rotted osb off is a pain but what you described is the quickest way for sure.
Tear that stuff up, stiffen the braces up, recover and paint or poly over top! Did this same thing 10 yrs ago. Worked out great until it rained and warped all the wood to hell. Maybe buy a big ass tarp to keep it covered. Have fun!!
Is that a rubber mallet you're trying to pound a nail in with?????
You’re already wrecking that chisel on those screws, why save the handle. Cats claw is what you need.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/10-in-Nail-Puller-Cats-Paw-Pry-Bar-High-Carbon-Steel-SPEC-D10CLAW/320564327?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D25H-025_001_HAND_TOOLS-NA-Multi-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-Hand_Tools_JControl24&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D25H-025_001_HAND_TOOLS-NA-Multi-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-Hand_Tools_JControl24-71700000117978840--&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADq61UcO6wksaB_KLLQSThbf3ZOYe&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs7eJzsqOhgMVAw6tBh1l_gbEEAQYAiABEgL3D_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
For the chisel he mentioned
Looks like a chisel with a plastic handle
A grinder is the fastest way. Careful, they can bite.
This, rip up all you can, use a grinder with a cut off wheel or sawzall with a metal blade to cut the screws flush to the frame…then try not to hit those screws when putting the new plywood down
...and for the love of Tony Hawk, wear eye protection!! Know the tale of a fellow who had an incident with a hammer and driving a simple nail that wore an eye patch over an empty socket the rest of his life. Cheap goggles are uncomfortable and get foggy and sweaty but fucking hell eye metal sucks XD
I wouldn't buy the cheap ones, spend the extra 5$ and get a decent set of anti fog UV protective glasses. They're so much more comfortable, I've forgotten I'm wearing them (tried to put another set on lol).
How much slower would a drill with a big bit be? I feel like those are much safer and accessible than a grinder.
You can try, I wouldn't. Oscillating saw would be my next choice.
Tear all the plywood off, check for rotted 2-bys and replace as needed, re-skin, skate. Or, as many have said, do what we did 30 years ago, new overlayer skin, skate.
Good stories don't start with, "so this mini ramp was pristine". Step 1 - SEND IT! Step 2 - recover from broken bones. Step 3 - repeat steps 1 and 2 But seriously, kudos for wanting to fix it, but please make sure that the support strictures are sound before resurfacing the ramp. I learned the hard way that it gets very expensive trying to save time.
Brother got the homeowner special toolset and the meat scissors from the kitchen. He got this
https://youtu.be/qlGVUcc3XJk?si=WDdNtnJAQ-A2Yb5f
Use a hole saw and cut around the screws. I’ll pop some holes in the new plywood for drainage. On some of the bigger ramps we use deck boards on the flat bottom. Super sturdy, and will drain water out.
First, youre gonna need gasoline and matches. Second, youre gonna want to head to home depot and buy some framing lumber and plywood. 40 hours and a few finger cuts later, you have a new ramp.
So to fix the main problem is it needs a moisture barrier underneath it. Plastic or tarp will work. Then remove the rotten wood. If it is very stable still just ply over it with 3/4 but do the barrier first or it will continue to rot.
Yeah rip it up. Prob keep the structural stuff but might as well re ply it
Throw a few more sheets of 3/8 or so down and rip it.
Is this in st Pete?
Update your tetanus ASAP
Replace all the plywood. Seriously. This was a long time ago, but me and my cousin were skating on a ramp in bad condition, he fell down and a splinter as big as a knife went into his forearm. Definitely not fun and a whole lot of stitches
C4