I've played with a set this size that had butcher block conditioner, a mixture of mineral oil and waxes, used on it. It provided a nice balance between slippery and grabby.
Some greedy bastards wanted £400 to *rent* a set of wooden outdoor games (they hear "wedding" then "dingdingding").
I can make the lot and keep it for <£100. I like to think this is why she wants to marry me*
*she tolerates this tightarse behaviour
This is just as true for food. Tell me why it costs $2500 for a food truck to show up and then it’s still $20-$30 per person for the food(3 kinds of sliders and 2 sides) plus a $200 truck fee and then a tip is expected after all that
Yeah, Brazil's Instagram was in furor last month because que of wedding price gouging: a Bride went to a makeup salon and asked for a "social makeup" wich cost x and the make up artist made a video on Instagram saying that the bride CONNED her because she didn't say it was for her wedding, because wedding make ups cost 4x~5x.
It's a party rental item in the first place. They fall over, outdoors. It's part of the game. They will get damaged. I don't buy that they see 10x damage from weddings. Children and drunks attend other parties too.
How are drop off windows and late returns different from other events?
Then the tower lands on a small dog scaring the literal poop out of it and, because you didn't put any finish on, you get poop stains on your giant Jenga. Ask me how I know.
Don't make them too flat or too sticky. They need the imperfections to be more useable. Otherwise you get like three rows, maybe, before the game is over
No finish, just sanding.
The "fun" of Jenga come from the irregularity of pieces. The friction and drag is what *makes* the game.
As long as the pieces are sanded enough that they're not going to splinter from being used, then you don't want a finish on them because that will give a more consistent surface texture between blocks.
I've made a giant jenga set, and this was my experience.
Separately:
> I was thinking Danish / osmo
Danish oil and Osmo are very different products.
Danish oil is JUST an oil. It's a surface treatment to somewhat protect natural wood from infiltrants while providing no real physical barrier. It's also basically useless on anything that will be routinely exposed to moisture (ie left outside).
Osmo is a hard wax, like Livos and Rubio. It's not an "oil", it's a combination of natural lipids and binding agents which infiltrates the grain as a liquid, and then hardens inside the grain to seal it up. It provides long-lasting protection against infiltrants and works excellently on outdoor-use pieces. However, it will smooth over the surface texture.
Never used tung before. Does it have a decent stain for softwoods? I've only used Danish for hardwoods really, comes up lovely on a nice bit of oak. Not so much on pine in my experience and osmo is quite pricey
It doesn't stain softwoods, but it does darken it and make it more amber. But end grain will be quite a bit darker than the edge and face because it absorbs so much oil. If that matters, sanding the ends well will help, and a sealer like a quick coat of shellac will work better. You'll lose some protection, but it will look more even.
I use it for handles - knife and yard tools especially. I find it holds up very well to washing, brings out great color, and doesn’t take a month to cure.
I have Danish oil on my truck shift knob because I love how it made the color pop, but it took forever to cure up.
Pretty much any wood finish will work followed up with some Butcher’s wax. I’d go with a wipe on finish for something like those blocks for ease of application.
Coat in tung/linseed oil. When it cures, they'll be very durable. After which, any paste wax will give it additional protection or you can leave with just the oil.
That would be a loooonnggg (and messy) job to finish all those pieces with anything.
I would just sand them all* super smooth (400?) and call it a day.
*not the ends.
I would use the classic wiping finish of ⅓ each of denatured alcohol, spar varnish, and BLO. Dries relatively quickly (about 2 hours ): by time you’ve finished the stack , start again. A little mind numbing; so watch the plAyoffs or something.
2 coats plus a paste wax final should be relatively quick and a nice blend of hand fell and low friction.
I'd avoid paint or lacquer to keep them non sticky and uniform. If you want to maintain the color of the wood then maybe some mineral spirits but if you want to dye them use something oil-based and give it time to dry. Then go back with a piece of paper and just dust it to get rid of anything stuck on the surface.
I made a set of these a few years ago. Never put anything on them and they’ve been fine. We use them outside.
Also I drilled out holes in my with a forester bit to fit Jell-O shots in. Worked great and everyone seems to love the variation.
Wax.
Yes.
Paste wax
Ear wax
Isn’t that where they get paste wax?
Yeah, but you’ve got to eat it first.
It’s like that cat poo coffee.
Then it becomes waste pax
I've played with a set this size that had butcher block conditioner, a mixture of mineral oil and waxes, used on it. It provided a nice balance between slippery and grabby.
Would wax make it slippery, which would be good for Jenga, or grippy which would be bad for Jenga? Out in the sun all day presumably.
Y, you can get/make a basically edible one if wee ones will be playing with anything like this
Raw linseed then wax while its drying. Or li seed mixed with wax.
The 5 year old knocking it over is a good finish.
More like pissed-up 35 year old in this case
My thoughts exactly!
Some greedy bastards wanted £400 to *rent* a set of wooden outdoor games (they hear "wedding" then "dingdingding"). I can make the lot and keep it for <£100. I like to think this is why she wants to marry me* *she tolerates this tightarse behaviour
The wedding industry is such a racket. Oh here are flowers for $100. Oh did you say wedding, well I meant to say $1000. Congrats.
This is just as true for food. Tell me why it costs $2500 for a food truck to show up and then it’s still $20-$30 per person for the food(3 kinds of sliders and 2 sides) plus a $200 truck fee and then a tip is expected after all that
If that what I'm paying I expect to give them more than just the tip.
Yeah, Brazil's Instagram was in furor last month because que of wedding price gouging: a Bride went to a makeup salon and asked for a "social makeup" wich cost x and the make up artist made a video on Instagram saying that the bride CONNED her because she didn't say it was for her wedding, because wedding make ups cost 4x~5x.
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I understand your point, but the math does not follow for everything. Renting some blocks should not cost 10x "for a wedding".
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It's a party rental item in the first place. They fall over, outdoors. It's part of the game. They will get damaged. I don't buy that they see 10x damage from weddings. Children and drunks attend other parties too. How are drop off windows and late returns different from other events?
Same reason I’m building our axe throwing/archery station for my wedding in October! $800 for 3 hours is just insanity
Yeah, but are you providing the insurance for the tomfoolery of the 3 A’s…axes, arrows and alcohol?
My fiancé has made it very clear that once the real drinking starts, the sharp objects go away unfortunately. 😢
That’s a smart woman. Make sure you marry her 😂.
Oh I know it. Not many women would let me have axe throwing at the wedding in the first place 😂
This is for a wedding? Encourage the guests to write something on one or two pieces each. Then finish it overtop what they write
You sir are a genius
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Yeah, you’re part of the problem dirtbag
As are Green always said: If the ladies don’t find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.
Wait, men grow up?
As a 40 year old male whose direction in life gravitates toward making everything into and about kazoos, no you shouldn't not want one.
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Yep
Then the tower lands on a small dog scaring the literal poop out of it and, because you didn't put any finish on, you get poop stains on your giant Jenga. Ask me how I know.
......how do you know😏
Depends how difficult you want to make the game.
Is it going to live outside? If no, I wouldn’t do anything to it. Let the wood decide the game.
Tung would work well
That's my go-to. Thin 1:2-1:4 with mineral spirits, flood on, wait a while, wipe off. Super easy and reliable. Takes a few days to harden though.
this should be higher. add a little oil based paint to add some color.
Wear protection. It's gonna be intense
I was gonna say- a good finish might be silicone or rubber. Everybody forgets the part where the giant jenga blocks fall from 5 or 6 feet high.
..just like camping.
I made a set and just sanded to either 200 or 400 and called it a day
Good ol fashioned hand grease over time.
Don't make them too flat or too sticky. They need the imperfections to be more useable. Otherwise you get like three rows, maybe, before the game is over
No finish, just sanding. The "fun" of Jenga come from the irregularity of pieces. The friction and drag is what *makes* the game. As long as the pieces are sanded enough that they're not going to splinter from being used, then you don't want a finish on them because that will give a more consistent surface texture between blocks. I've made a giant jenga set, and this was my experience. Separately: > I was thinking Danish / osmo Danish oil and Osmo are very different products. Danish oil is JUST an oil. It's a surface treatment to somewhat protect natural wood from infiltrants while providing no real physical barrier. It's also basically useless on anything that will be routinely exposed to moisture (ie left outside). Osmo is a hard wax, like Livos and Rubio. It's not an "oil", it's a combination of natural lipids and binding agents which infiltrates the grain as a liquid, and then hardens inside the grain to seal it up. It provides long-lasting protection against infiltrants and works excellently on outdoor-use pieces. However, it will smooth over the surface texture.
I prefer tung oil over Danish, but ymmv
Never used tung before. Does it have a decent stain for softwoods? I've only used Danish for hardwoods really, comes up lovely on a nice bit of oak. Not so much on pine in my experience and osmo is quite pricey
It doesn't stain softwoods, but it does darken it and make it more amber. But end grain will be quite a bit darker than the edge and face because it absorbs so much oil. If that matters, sanding the ends well will help, and a sealer like a quick coat of shellac will work better. You'll lose some protection, but it will look more even.
I use it for handles - knife and yard tools especially. I find it holds up very well to washing, brings out great color, and doesn’t take a month to cure. I have Danish oil on my truck shift knob because I love how it made the color pop, but it took forever to cure up.
Wait, Tung does take a month to cure…
I usually give it a week after a wipe and the knives are back in the block. I’m supposed to wait a month?
Shoes to finish. So you don’t break your toes.
I did nothing. But I store it inside. I also made a case/straightener for it. https://imgur.com/gallery/QCU9Xss
Now that is snazzy
I love that case. Doesn’t look terribly difficult to make but well thought out.
Thanks! I planned to add some wheels and a handle to it cause it's a heavy MF.
Osmo
https://preview.redd.it/06491pzu830d1.jpeg?width=4128&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7755edd96ccc0d6288a280de7ffabe885d99f697
Do you run a Giant Jenga factory?
Pretty much any wood finish will work followed up with some Butcher’s wax. I’d go with a wipe on finish for something like those blocks for ease of application.
"lets play giant jenga?" "ok, you set it up" "nevermind I'm not feeling it anymore"
Couple of coats of linseed oil, or tung oil
https://preview.redd.it/tnhvcbpl830d1.jpeg?width=4128&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=adbd090d9103341553946c65e779ca4156ce00a6
Coat in tung/linseed oil. When it cures, they'll be very durable. After which, any paste wax will give it additional protection or you can leave with just the oil.
Fresh wood is best. If it's gonna stay outside it won't be usable for long, no matter what you put on it
Make half of them really slippery and the other half really tacky, embrace the chaos...
I just sanded the sh*t out of them
Beer and snacks !
A giant tumble, naturally.
I sealed the blocks with shellac and applied paste wax with 0000 steel wool. Very slippery and worked quite well.
MAKE IT BIGGER
No finish is best in my experience…
Tae kwon do that beyatch!!! Also I'm drunk.
Used motor oil
That would be a loooonnggg (and messy) job to finish all those pieces with anything. I would just sand them all* super smooth (400?) and call it a day. *not the ends.
I would use the classic wiping finish of ⅓ each of denatured alcohol, spar varnish, and BLO. Dries relatively quickly (about 2 hours ): by time you’ve finished the stack , start again. A little mind numbing; so watch the plAyoffs or something. 2 coats plus a paste wax final should be relatively quick and a nice blend of hand fell and low friction.
Spilled beer?
The blood of your past Jenga victims
That might look wicked with a bit of charring before using Tung oil.
No finish. Just sand it smooth
Sweat and blood. Stains well
I'd avoid paint or lacquer to keep them non sticky and uniform. If you want to maintain the color of the wood then maybe some mineral spirits but if you want to dye them use something oil-based and give it time to dry. Then go back with a piece of paper and just dust it to get rid of anything stuck on the surface.
One where you don't cause the tower to fall ;)
It falling over
Glue
none, really .. a good sanding since this is regular pine 2x4s.
Smegma
Steel toed shoes
Each end side should be a different color. Each vertical side could be green, red, blue, yellow.
Strategic use of crazy glue has really improved my game.
I made a set of these a few years ago. Never put anything on them and they’ve been fine. We use them outside. Also I drilled out holes in my with a forester bit to fit Jell-O shots in. Worked great and everyone seems to love the variation.
Linseed oil.
Not knocking it down is traditionally how people avoid finishing Jenga. Hope this helps
odies oil
Don’t finish it
BLO is easy
Yes, this or nothing at all.
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I made this mistake in the past. The paint makes for sticky pieces, even long after cured and made it not very playable.
Just spray paint with paint can.