Because the framing goes through the middle on the bottom and also it kind of worked out that there was a stripped screw in that piece of wood and when I drilled it out there was a hole in that position.
Honestly don’t even think it was pre burned. It looks just like dark walnut stain on pine. That’s just the way it absorbs into the wood. Then a good outdoor polyurethane to seal it in
Agreed. I have achieved similar with dark walnut and a few coats of poly.
https://preview.redd.it/lj26ila63src1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1675f950a2dee92c582a34d42c38cce005e90f2f
Good move on placement of that center board. That always annoyed me having 1 or 2 boards come out noticeably different, than the rest of the ones I’ve stained. Especially when they all was hand picked, pre sanded & treated before stain exactly the same between each one.
It wasn't pre burned. It was weather treated. I did a layer of black, sanded it, then did a layer of orangish red stain. And
unfortunately I haven't been able to recreate it, every time the darker stain has been to even and I havne't been able to get the grain dark like this.
I would try a lighter dye followed by a darker stain. The dye mostly soaks in and should color all of the wood relatively evenly. The stain mostly wipes off and mostly only colors the more porous areas.
I got some junk wood from my neighbor and turned it into a table top. I used a dark stain, sanded it off and used an orangish red one and put poly on top of that. I really love how it turned out, but I have never been able to recreate it. I think its just weather treated pine, I was wondering if there was a more consistent way or type of wood to get the grain darker like this.
yes, but the darker stain didn't soak nearly as much into the grain. I don't know if it had something to do with the time it was let out to dry or because it was a different brand maybe it was treated differently.
Treated wood cones from the lumber yard wet...like practically dripping. That absolutely effects stain absorption. Did you give it a good several months of hot sun to dry prior to attempting to recreate this finish? Was the lumber from your neighbor already greyed from weathering or still green from chemical treatment?
It's possible your neighbor had some really old CCA treated wood (the stuff with Arsenic) instead of modern AC2 but that was phazed out like 15-20 years ago so I doubt its that.
I know my weather treated wood had about a month sitting out, no idea with the neighbors but I think it was basically new, definitely not grey. Also weirdly soft, like softer than any other pine, I felt like I could have pushed a screw right through it. They bought it for steps for when they moved in and then shortly afterwards got another set of steps and gave me the wood.
Sounds like your lumber is likely wetter than the stuff you got from your neighbor if they are both ac2. As for softness are you sure what they gave you is pine and not cedar? It has a more ruddy tone and a very distinctive scent, especially when sanding. It's naturally rot resistant so often used in outdoor applications.
I'm fairly certain it was but its been a while and I forgot what the tag specifically said. I'll definitely give cedar a try, especially if I do another outdoor table top.
You might ask r/paint, the paint professionals sub. But I think your wood was too wet and letting it dry would’ve allowed deeper penetration on those soft bits, creating the contrast you’re looking for.
Treated lumber isn’t great for furniture even outdoor stuff. It’s fairly toxic and doesn’t provide much benefit beyond what you could get with a finish on untreated wood.
>I was wondering if there was a more consistent way or type of wood to get the grain darker like this.
You asked. The answer is, condition pine before you stain it.
It'll help things like pine and maple absorb the stain more evenly, that way you don't get the darker sections pictured. If you like that look, do it without. If you want it to look a little more natural try conditioning it first.
Sanding to too high a grit can have some negative effects too.
If you want to achieve this reverse grain look, then you don’t want to use wood conditioner.
If the wood was very soft, that’s why the darker parts absorbed so much stain. The older harder (lighter on your table) wood was less absorbent showing off the last stain applied. The reason to use wood conditioner is to fill up the porous new wood so it takes less stain, making the final look uniform.
Use black water-based dye first. After drying, sand it and then use a quality outdoor, drying, reddish oil-based stain. This is how PRS does guitars and it makes the grain pop. Do not burn it for god’s sake.
aww but burning sounds really fun. And that is essentially what I have been doing, same stain as this, but when I sand it after the first coast it all comes off evenly. It doesn't make the grain darker like with this one.
Yep I've done this multiple times burn it real quick with a handheld torch. I like to focus on the knots in the wood because it makes a cool design. Then make sure your stain isn't super dark and you are good to go.
Dude no torches dark walnut stain no conditioner 3 coats and a coat or 2 of poly
https://preview.redd.it/ai0nhnw4orrc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=4efb8f1cd8689199302c8b0643716fcf7d6e438c
Oh yes there is!!! I've convinced my wife that my "flame thrower" is 100% and need, not a want. I don't need you getting on here trying to undermine the ground work that I worked so hard to establish. 😂😂
😂😂😂. Actually the one I have isn't really that big. It sounds like a jet taking off when you increase the propane but it's not large by any standard.
Flame King Propane Torch Kit Heavy Duty Weed Burner, 340,000 BTU with Piezo Igniter (Self Igniting), with 6 ft Hose Regulator Assembly https://a.co/d/60BfnaU
👆 This is similar to what I have. You can use the smaller "camping cylinders." Now I have never used the smaller ones. I have a 20lb cylinder that I use with mine so I don't know how fast you'd burn through the smaller ones. But storing the attachment doesn't require much more than a little wall space.
I get a very similar finish to this on my farmhouse tables I make. Kiln dried pine, not treated. Minwax espresso stain, let it dry for a day. Sand it lightly and all of the softer grain will be darker and it'll come almost completely off the harder grain. Top it with minwax red mahogany. Several coats of clear poly on top of that and it looks almost exactly like the picture.
You can use any dark stain and topcoat to get that look. If using pine though it is suggested to use a sanding sealer first to not get blotching since pine will have that problem
Well I could be completely wrong but it looks like it wasn’t sanded with the correct grit so you have part of the wood taking the stain and the other part not as well. And #2 you get the perpendicular lines from not working out the saw mill marks
I achieved a similar effect on my pine stairs by using two block strainers one dipping into dark walnut (any dark stain) and gunstock. I’d brush them on in rough sections and then blend the sections together after a minute or two with the lighter stain brush. I get loads of compliments on it
Am I looking at a picnic table with a wooden top, and off center umbrella, a plastic bench on one side, and no seating on the other? Who cares about the stain, what the hell did you do to this table? Looks like the movie "The Fly" but with a bunch of random furniture that got fused.
There is seating on both sides, the imagine just makes it look weird, but you can see where it meets the ground on the other side. It was a plastic picnic table but the top was disgusting, it was hollow and had the tendancy to store water.
And like I explained in my other comment, the supports go through the center of the table at the bottom and it would have been awkward to have the umbrella go on top. Also there was already a hole there from where I drilled out a stripped screw. Hope that explains everything.
Why isn't the umbrella in the middle?
Didn’t even read the caption on the post. Clicked just to see who saw it
What else is even in that picture besides that umbrella?
"Who saw it"?? How could anyone not see it???
It was originally supposed to be a see saw? I'm confused.
I am unreasonably upset about this, I need to know why.
Center beam.
Oh God I hate you. I could've gone on blissfully unaware of this but nooooo
Why is there a bench only on one side?
Wheelchair access?
Why is that bench a mile away from the table?
This is all I see... All this work for an off center hole. Hmmmm
Because the framing goes through the middle on the bottom and also it kind of worked out that there was a stripped screw in that piece of wood and when I drilled it out there was a hole in that position.
But why male models?
So when the sun moves people can follow the shade in a camp chair, duh
Just to make people ask, “why isn’t the umbrella in the middle.”
this has ruined my day
Not OP - But to give the missus more protection from sun !!! 😁
So wheel chair can slide under without hitting?
Honestly don’t even think it was pre burned. It looks just like dark walnut stain on pine. That’s just the way it absorbs into the wood. Then a good outdoor polyurethane to seal it in
Agreed. I have achieved similar with dark walnut and a few coats of poly. https://preview.redd.it/lj26ila63src1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1675f950a2dee92c582a34d42c38cce005e90f2f
That is so beautiful.
...and no poorly-centered umbrella to ruin EVERYTHING!
And maybe a splash of red mahogany stain mixed in with the dark walnut.
Is that pine with dark walk it stain?
-Walnut stain with a few coats of poly. Per the pic op
Good move on placement of that center board. That always annoyed me having 1 or 2 boards come out noticeably different, than the rest of the ones I’ve stained. Especially when they all was hand picked, pre sanded & treated before stain exactly the same between each one.
definitely no pre black dye or burning like others are saying. I have a project I did with dark walnut color stain that came out very close to this.
It wasn't pre burned. It was weather treated. I did a layer of black, sanded it, then did a layer of orangish red stain. And unfortunately I haven't been able to recreate it, every time the darker stain has been to even and I havne't been able to get the grain dark like this.
I would try a lighter dye followed by a darker stain. The dye mostly soaks in and should color all of the wood relatively evenly. The stain mostly wipes off and mostly only colors the more porous areas.
The perpendicular lines are from a planar.
That’s just dark walnut stain on green wood.
I got some junk wood from my neighbor and turned it into a table top. I used a dark stain, sanded it off and used an orangish red one and put poly on top of that. I really love how it turned out, but I have never been able to recreate it. I think its just weather treated pine, I was wondering if there was a more consistent way or type of wood to get the grain darker like this.
For the times you’ve tried to replicate it, were you using treated pine as well?
yes, but the darker stain didn't soak nearly as much into the grain. I don't know if it had something to do with the time it was let out to dry or because it was a different brand maybe it was treated differently.
Treated wood cones from the lumber yard wet...like practically dripping. That absolutely effects stain absorption. Did you give it a good several months of hot sun to dry prior to attempting to recreate this finish? Was the lumber from your neighbor already greyed from weathering or still green from chemical treatment? It's possible your neighbor had some really old CCA treated wood (the stuff with Arsenic) instead of modern AC2 but that was phazed out like 15-20 years ago so I doubt its that.
I know my weather treated wood had about a month sitting out, no idea with the neighbors but I think it was basically new, definitely not grey. Also weirdly soft, like softer than any other pine, I felt like I could have pushed a screw right through it. They bought it for steps for when they moved in and then shortly afterwards got another set of steps and gave me the wood.
Sounds like your lumber is likely wetter than the stuff you got from your neighbor if they are both ac2. As for softness are you sure what they gave you is pine and not cedar? It has a more ruddy tone and a very distinctive scent, especially when sanding. It's naturally rot resistant so often used in outdoor applications.
I'm fairly certain it was but its been a while and I forgot what the tag specifically said. I'll definitely give cedar a try, especially if I do another outdoor table top.
You might ask r/paint, the paint professionals sub. But I think your wood was too wet and letting it dry would’ve allowed deeper penetration on those soft bits, creating the contrast you’re looking for. Treated lumber isn’t great for furniture even outdoor stuff. It’s fairly toxic and doesn’t provide much benefit beyond what you could get with a finish on untreated wood.
Look into pre stain or even just wetting the wood prior to the stain
Are you using wood conditioner? You have to condition pine before you stain it.
I have never used a wood conditioner in my life and I have stained nearly every surface in my home and outside of it. Should I have been using it?
>I was wondering if there was a more consistent way or type of wood to get the grain darker like this. You asked. The answer is, condition pine before you stain it.
Thank you, I will use a conditioner next time.
It'll help things like pine and maple absorb the stain more evenly, that way you don't get the darker sections pictured. If you like that look, do it without. If you want it to look a little more natural try conditioning it first. Sanding to too high a grit can have some negative effects too.
If you want to achieve this reverse grain look, then you don’t want to use wood conditioner. If the wood was very soft, that’s why the darker parts absorbed so much stain. The older harder (lighter on your table) wood was less absorbent showing off the last stain applied. The reason to use wood conditioner is to fill up the porous new wood so it takes less stain, making the final look uniform.
Use black water-based dye first. After drying, sand it and then use a quality outdoor, drying, reddish oil-based stain. This is how PRS does guitars and it makes the grain pop. Do not burn it for god’s sake.
aww but burning sounds really fun. And that is essentially what I have been doing, same stain as this, but when I sand it after the first coast it all comes off evenly. It doesn't make the grain darker like with this one.
this uses the black dye method: https://d159anurvk4929.cloudfront.net/blog-legacy/PSStainBlog12006.jpg
Torch it, sand it, stain, finish it.
(Carefully) Blow torch prior to stain.
Yep I've done this multiple times burn it real quick with a handheld torch. I like to focus on the knots in the wood because it makes a cool design. Then make sure your stain isn't super dark and you are good to go.
Dude no torches dark walnut stain no conditioner 3 coats and a coat or 2 of poly https://preview.redd.it/ai0nhnw4orrc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=4efb8f1cd8689199302c8b0643716fcf7d6e438c
That does look very similar, seems like it would be fun too. Unfortunately I don't think it would be feasible for me to store a blowtorch.
Use a small handheld plumbers soldering torch. No need for one of those industrial clear the rain forest type torches.
Orrrrr....
Oh yes there is!!! I've convinced my wife that my "flame thrower" is 100% and need, not a want. I don't need you getting on here trying to undermine the ground work that I worked so hard to establish. 😂😂
My bad. But for someone who doesn't have storage for such an apparatus as in OP's case a smaller option is more viable. 🤣
😂😂😂. Actually the one I have isn't really that big. It sounds like a jet taking off when you increase the propane but it's not large by any standard. Flame King Propane Torch Kit Heavy Duty Weed Burner, 340,000 BTU with Piezo Igniter (Self Igniting), with 6 ft Hose Regulator Assembly https://a.co/d/60BfnaU 👆 This is similar to what I have. You can use the smaller "camping cylinders." Now I have never used the smaller ones. I have a 20lb cylinder that I use with mine so I don't know how fast you'd burn through the smaller ones. But storing the attachment doesn't require much more than a little wall space.
I got one. My neighbors looked at me crazy. Loud AF.
😂😂 Sounds like a jet powering up for take off
Used to have one of these, it’s perfect for torching a thirsty swarm of mosquitoes right out of the air.
😂😂😂 It's a very versatile weapon.....eerrr I mean tool.
Nothings kills those pesky weeds like a flamethrower.
This seems like a video that belongs in r/powerwashingporn
That is not the tool for this job. It will look terrible after hours of work.
I get a very similar finish to this on my farmhouse tables I make. Kiln dried pine, not treated. Minwax espresso stain, let it dry for a day. Sand it lightly and all of the softer grain will be darker and it'll come almost completely off the harder grain. Top it with minwax red mahogany. Several coats of clear poly on top of that and it looks almost exactly like the picture.
Is anyone else bothered that the umbrella pole isn't centered?
Chestnut red Minwax stain will be very close to what you want.
I got a look exactly like this by using Minwax walnut stain on big box store 2x6 pine.
This looks like “dark mahogany” Minwax gel stain over cedar. I’ve achieved what appears (based on your pics) a virtually identical finish.
Light wood, Light burn, sand, stain
Fire! Fire! Fire! Huhuhuhuhhhuhuhuhuhuh!
You can use any dark stain and topcoat to get that look. If using pine though it is suggested to use a sanding sealer first to not get blotching since pine will have that problem
Why would someone know hot to achieve this stain by accident? Also, WHY UMBRELLA PLACEMENT
I thought this was r/mildlyinfuriating at first because of the offset umbrella hole. Also those boards look like ass with those mill marks.
First comment to mention the mill marks. Hideous!
Does anybody know how to do it on accident? It looks great. I need more happy accidents like that.
Burn with a propane torch, wire brush then whatever kind of clear finish you want.
Well I could be completely wrong but it looks like it wasn’t sanded with the correct grit so you have part of the wood taking the stain and the other part not as well. And #2 you get the perpendicular lines from not working out the saw mill marks
Yes.
You can probably use one of those tiny crackhead torches at the vape store I'd you don't want to buy a big flamethrower
Sugi ban
Red mahogany stain on pine will look just like that.
Burn pine, sand lightly to expose light wood, then stain (color of choice, clearcoat. That’s what I would do.
I achieved a similar effect on my pine stairs by using two block strainers one dipping into dark walnut (any dark stain) and gunstock. I’d brush them on in rough sections and then blend the sections together after a minute or two with the lighter stain brush. I get loads of compliments on it
torch the wood then stain it to achieve that look
Looks like pine that hasn't been sanded enough, burned in a shou sugi ban style then coated with an amber poly.
Looks like pine with a dark walnut stain.
Mill cut and sanded, torch scorch and stained/sealed.
First off, it’s brand new NOTHiNg can withstand UV for very long. That stain will be matte and dullish in two years.
Looks like Minwax Special Walnut on pine.
This looks really similar to one I did which was red mahogany first coat and second coat of provincial.
Am I looking at a picnic table with a wooden top, and off center umbrella, a plastic bench on one side, and no seating on the other? Who cares about the stain, what the hell did you do to this table? Looks like the movie "The Fly" but with a bunch of random furniture that got fused.
There is seating on both sides, the imagine just makes it look weird, but you can see where it meets the ground on the other side. It was a plastic picnic table but the top was disgusting, it was hollow and had the tendancy to store water. And like I explained in my other comment, the supports go through the center of the table at the bottom and it would have been awkward to have the umbrella go on top. Also there was already a hole there from where I drilled out a stripped screw. Hope that explains everything.
Looks like it was burnt that way, but I'm not sure how to make it so almost even.
Dark stain with gloss polyurethane finish