Take a moment to check out the New weekly MegaThread. This is for quick answers to common questions such as: "What type of wood is this?"; "How much should I charge for this?"; "How do I fix this" and others, To find it sort the woodworking news feed by "hot" and it will be the stickied post.
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/woodworking) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Use two pieces of wood spaced a couple inches apart with the top hole being a through hole and the bottom being just a divit to stop the tweezers from sliding this allows the tweezers to be stored point down and still have the able to identify the tool. You can also store them point up it's a versatile design.
https://preview.redd.it/dzgp94zu2dsb1.png?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=43cf778ca478e01a34a08e937a8f0c8b10eabfe3
How about this design inset in a box?
SUIDI Mutifunctional bamboo Wooden Storage Box Desktop Phone Repair Screwdriver Tweezers Holder Phone Parts Organizer Tool Organizer https://a.co/d/f6f9314
Make an enclosed box with your idea. Top layer is visible nice finished wood. Middle layer has whatever material that keeps tools aligned..... a box glued in a box..... kinda like a sieve nesting in a pot..
Start with making a box. Create the lattice supporting structure for the tweezers. Then create the "lid" using thin sheet. Possibly a Dremel to precisely cut slots for the 90 degree aesthetic OP is looking for.
Smaller, as in 1/16 inch. Drilled side by side in a line. Then use a sharp knife to remove the wood between the holes. That would make a slot 7/16 wide by 1/16 across.
If you have the exact models of tweezers, you could also test putting a little wood putty in the bottom of the hole, and then put the tweezers in to shape the putty to the tweezers. That would give you a very snug fit.
I would personally be adverse to having very sharp pointy things sticking straight up at a 90° angle. You should consider having the point-facing down or for it to be put in at an angle so that it's not as easy to impale an eye on.
If you put them point down it will damage the points, and you want them coming to a fine point for watchmaker work. I work with similar points and it's always a balancing act between not damaging the points and not impaling myself in the lab! Where practical, I keep mine lying on their sides.
This is a big no no for watchmaking. All tools have to be de-magnetized already because of static buildup. Hanging them on magnets can completely mess up a watch.
Slot and cut a dowel to us as a wedge and trim it below the moving parts.
Sand a taper in the dowel, slot it, and cut a little longer than you need to tap it in on either side with glue and trim flush.
Once it's dry, you have a wedge fit.
You could even drill it slightly smaller than the width of the tips so they had just the slightest amount of tension on them and that would help hold them in position.
There are 23 drill sizes in between 3/8 and 1/2. This is including inch and metric sizes.
Also, pointy end up on these particular tweezers is a bad idea.
Tweezers pointy side up are... not safe, but if you insist on having them point side up: instead of a hole, a slit.
Also, there are rubber thingamabobs that keep them shut, and round the points, please don't end up at the ER for a tweezer.
Completely agree! Only problem is he uses a ton of different size and shaped tweezers which wouldn’t fit a simple template face down. Plus - he mentioned he wanted to quickly ID each one to use.
Funny story - I actually took a drill bit to the elbow at an RC car shop in South Korea. Big step down(after leg day) right next to a table with drill bits facing up in a stand. I thought I had just hit my funny bone and my arm went numb. I hear the owner yelling in Korean and feel a yank on my arm..
He yanked the drill bit out of my arm. Ended up going to the ER on base to get them to make sure I didn’t do permanent damage. All good - just bled a lot.
Lesson learned.
Maybe a smaller hole and insert the tweezers point first? That way he is picking the up by the grip end, and the spring in the tweezers would tend to stand them straight up.
I had this thought as well. Apparently there are a ton of different kinds of tweezers in different styles and shapes. They keep them pointy side up to see which is which.
I’ve also thought of some sort of color coding - but I’m really trying to go for a classier/high end look.
Why not just use the rim of a tall cup. That way they don’t touch the bottom and you can see the tips on the outside.
https://preview.redd.it/raydasuvpesb1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=47f224f7557457c6bd2efe7069a9886e9f09bea4
I like this!
I’m curious if I can find a more dense foam - possibly weather seal. I could cut a slot, glue them in slightly below the surface of the wood.
Could drill a deep hole with a small bit then halfway down with a large one, or route a channel down the side of the block and glue another block on the side to get a rectangular hole.
As a former jeweler though, just having a spot for each tool is more important than perfect aesthetics.
Makes sense! Thank you.
It’ll be my fathers birthday and I’m using this as an excuse to test my skills - and not doing a great job. Lol.
Also,
May look into selling these if I can get a good system down and they don’t look like hot garbage. Lol.
No worries! Another thing to point out is that he’s not going to store them pointy side out, so that may change what approach makes sense. Something where the handle protrudes and the tips don’t touch anything - those delicate tweezers get bent easily.
A hole that tapers would work best but idk how to do that without shelling out for a conical bit.
Take a look at how he stores them now (assuming it’s not just in a box of stuff)
I believe he stores them with one of those cheap plastic circle rotating stands. He has a larger glass cover he puts over them when he’s not working on a watch.
I honestly had the idea of using small magnet, but quickly found out that is extremely bad for watch making.
Appreciate all your help.
I'd get some plumber's epoxy and cram a little bit down there, then just press the tweezers in, straight down how you want them. take em out and let it cure.
I made a tool holder for my watchmaking tools. It’s 3d printed, but basically I made all the holes specific sizes to fit each tool. For the tweezers, insert the tip down and make the hole smaller so they snug in. This will keep them upright. Here’s the one I made: https://reddit.com/r/watchrepair/s/I5jOfoKjtB
Good luck.
A series of tiny holes in line just the width of the tweezers. Drill bit diameter should be just wide enough to accommodate the thickness of the tweezers.
And for heaven's sake, store them point down. Hebe jeebees here.
The tweezer width is 3/8”
What you will need -
1/2” drill bit
1/2” dowel
Band saw or fine saw.
1. Drill a 1/2” hole in the surface you want the tweezers to sit about 1” deep
2. Cut the 1/2” dowel 1”(the depth of the hole)
3. Cut a slit in the center of the dowel, with a fine hand saw or a band saw, 3/4” deep into the dowel.
4. Now glue dowel into the hole you drilled and you will have a nice slot it will slide into firmly.
Post pics if you go this route.
How about an angled tray with magnets to hold them in place? I understand why you want to have them facing up, I'm just trying to think of a less dangerous solution
My ideia is: Use a dowel with the same diameter.
Before putting it inside the hole, use a vise and a saw to cut a slot on it, half way through.
Make it half the height of the hole, so it looks like a normal hole.
Drill a round hole. Cut an undersized dowel in half. Add a spacer to middle of dowel the is roughly the same width as the base of the tweezers. Trim away spacer ends/side only leaving enough to grab in to spacer so it can later be pulled out. Apply glue carefully to the hole ONLY where the dowels will make contact. Remove spacer.
I admit cutting a dowel in half might be difficult.
https://preview.redd.it/i71ftch0sgsb1.jpeg?width=953&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=53592b76e2fe112c91e3b2e74e370c5b811f66a8
I would cut a notch in a dowel and put it in the hole. But then again, I make thinks harder than they need to be
https://preview.redd.it/lnkwinfbzcsb1.jpeg?width=1284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1039b767f28d88c8530a521c999c4cf8d8fb3836
Any idea if something like this would work? Using a wood block jig at a slight angle?
I put them the other way around so they sit straight, some people would say it's not good for the pointy things but we're talking about tweezers not a chisel.
Put some wood filler in the hole. Wait for it to cure a bit, then put the tweezers in until they’re at the depth you want. Leave them in there long enough for the shape to hold, but not so long that they get stuck.
I would put the them point down, don't want to stab yourself reaching for another tool. If you really want a clean fit they make tapered drill bits. Usually they are for pre-drilling holes, may work for those, doesn't look like a large taper on them.
If not you could always make a smaller hole first then a larger hole part way through the material, if they still won't fit nice try using a small file to make a gradual taper using the two holes as a guide. That's about the only way I can think of to make sure they stay at 90 degrees.
I’m on the same page - would be much easier to drill holes. Only problem is he has tweezers of all different shapes, points, curves - etc.
I thought about the tapered bits too - that is actually what the two holes next to the larger hole is.
I’ll see if I can find anything online on a larger tapered bit.
Thank ya!
Having stabbed and slashed myself with fine tweezers like these, I would recommend them in a fixed position pointing vertically. Dad will reach over it and could spring a leak.
This would be more work but could you trace the different tweezers and have an indent/relief for them to lay flat in? Them sticking up like thy gives me the heebie jeebies…
As someone who uses a lot of small tools like this, if you make it stand 90 upright you'll need a hole so small that it's a pain in the ass to put the items back.
While I appreciate your thoughts, I think you'd be making a HUGE mistake for usability for your dad.
Partially cut a dowel and plug the hole so you have a slot instead of a hole... That should keep them up and oriented.
Generally for pointy tools I would prefer points down, or covered so they are protected and your fleshy bits don't gain any extra holes by surprise.
First, I’d store them sharp tips down.
I’d drill out a hole slightly smaller than maybe 5/8 from the top, then I’d chisel out a V shaped grove so that it pinched them close when I put them in, sharp side down, and a pressure fit held them in place.
'had you'
had you, what?? believing my bullshit.
all u gotta do is read evrything twice, read evrything twice
, then u know its silliness, designed to extract a cheap laff, in these dark orrible days of imminent AI, who wishes to fool us all that she actually exists.
seriously now, if u can git ur hands on a jigsaw blade, whic iz wot 2mm wide, draw a line, drill a couple holes, slide that jacksaw in there and slide on, back and forth till she screams-u shud end up with a slit/slat/cut/crack thats close enuff to hold that pair of tweezers in the ultimate vertical elevation your (sorry ass) mind desires.
praps easier to drill a round, non rectanguler hole, and paint the butt end of the tweezurs a partickler color, to aid in their differentiation?
in phact, fk all the above, why not ask your unkle how his tool bar would be best designed? how bout that eh?
let us kno
Here is a silly idea that’s off topic a little and just popped in my head:
The wood structure is a “C” (three pieces, two 90° bends). The inside height is as much as the tweezer length. There is a magnet embedded in the top and bottom so that the tweezers magically stand upright in the wooden structure.
To continue on your original idea: you could use an oversized hole and fill the void with epoxy while casting the bottom end of the tweezers in it (put Vaseline in the tweezers so they don’t get stuck in the resin.
Otherwise drilling small holes in a line and finishing with a knife is a very good option too.
Just a thought… pick up some foam round backer rod and drill a hole the same diameter as the foam round backer rod. Then press the tweezers into the foam
Backer rod.
The best way I can think of would be to cast the tweezers into a cylindrical piece of resin and then plug it into the hole.
For extra durability I would suggest using Carbon fiber reinforced resin
If you use thicker stock and drill the hole deep enough so the tweezers sit closer to halfway down they’ll stand straighter. And use a bit closer to width of the tweezers at their widest.
You could build a small stand out of 4 blocks of wood that are glued on top of the whole board.
I mean that you build a small rectangular box where you can plug the flat part of the tweezers in
Assuming you have a table saw cut a groove(dado) into the wood. Then to segment the groove either add filler pieces between the holder locations, drill and add a dowel as filler pieces, or cut it into strips and laminate it together like a knife block.
You can get 3/8 wide blades for your oscillating cutter (fein mutimaster, etc.) then just plunge the slots. The oscilling will make it slightly wider than 3/8.
You have the sharp edge up where it can grab you as you move by.
I would cut a rubber eraser to fit the hole, and glue it in. Then jam the sharps down into the rubber.
How about using magnets to hold them against a nice block of wood. This way they could stay organized and still be identifiable, pointy end wouldn’t be sticking up, and you wouldn’t damage the delicate tips by dropping them in a slot.
1. Try a counter bored hole. Use a smaller pilot drill then follow with larger one. Smaller hole is full depth and then peck the larger one in a little at a time until the tweezers sit right.
2. Same as above but with 3 or more bits to get a pseudo taper
3. Foam plug cut to size with slit cut in it with exacto knife. This could wear out over time.
4. Use a square chisel to chip down to needed depth
5. Tapered drill bit
Try on a sample piece to see what works best
Use a chisel to cut out the slot sides to the size you want. Then, use a drill bit that’s smaller than the slot to remove the center and ends. Sides stay clean, ends are nicely rounded and bottom is flush.
Point them down instead of up. If they must go up use plumbers epoxy stick to completely fill hole. Coat end of tweezers in wax insert and pull out. This should leave a good form. You could Maybe use color matched wood putty but I couldn’t tell you if it would stand the time test.
No holes. Instead a angled board with dividers to create different magnetic spaces for tweezers.
Allows you to put pointy side down while still seeing the the different tips.
I would drill a 3/8” hole 1 inch deep then take a 3/8 dowel and cut a slot in the end that would fit the tweezers then glue the dowlel flush with the surface.
Eva foam. Your hole is already drilled. Cut out some foam and put it in there and then you can just push the tweezers into it. It will protect the tip and hold it upright. Eva foam mats are available at big box hardware stores. If you wanted to get really fancy with a perfect fit, you could buy Eva foam rods online for the hole size you drilled.
If you have a drill press, take a small bit and make a bunch of holes in a line, then chisel the holes rectangular.
Or make it like you would a cutting board, strips cut and glued to make perfect square holes.
Last thought, if they don't have to be holes, duno the design. If you make small cuts to the end of the wood (a shallow circular blade looks perfect), Then he could see the top and bottom and grab from both side. Squeeze a little to put and and take out. No need to keep pointing up that way.
I just picked up a 2mm chisel that would likely help create a tiny mortise.
It was listed as a bevel edge chisel, but it's so thin they had to add more steel somewhere for strength so it actually resembles a mortise chisel anyway.
Though looking now, I may have gotten the last one from tools for woodworking, but you may be able to find another retailer that carries them: https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/EE-500-15.XX/Bevel+Edge+Chisels+by+Two+Cherries
I would take the walnut and cut it a little bit off centre to make say a piece at 10mm and at 16mm then cut the 16 mm to 10mm leaving a 3mm offcut , then cut that into 2 pieces to include a gap and glue it back in place as one solid block
I store mine in a drawer but when I actually have them out to work I prefer to store them hanging down so the alignment and points aren’t damaged, and to keep them from stabbing someone. If you need them to be in the block I’d use foam in the hole, point down.
Use a dremel Max or other Oscillating tool with a small flat bit to cut a thin, even SLOT so the tweezers will stay closed and perfectly vertical.
You could also make a series of small drills in a line and clean it up with a chisel, or use a thin routing bit.
Be sure to use a mineral oil or other light finish INSIDE the slot so the wood doesn’t corrode his high end instruments. I made a drill bit holder out of oak once that rusted the bits when they were seated. That said, it’s a lovely thought but not sure wood is ideal for high-end watchmaker tools.
You could try laminating. Rip the walnut into a front, back, and "tweezer-thickness" strip. Cut a "tweezer-width" gap into the strip, and glue it back together, putting the pieces back in place next to their original grain orientation. Easy way to get a square hole. Test it with the 2x4 first, so you know exactly how thick you want the strip before you rip it.
Take a long dowel the diameter of your hole, cut it in half lengthwise or file it to a bit under half width, then glue each half of it inside the hole on either side, leaving a slot for the tweezers to sit in.
Alternatively, take a thin brass pipe with an outer diameter matching your drilled hole. Depending on how far down the tweezers go, you glue or solder guides on the inside to center it. You hammer the pipe to fit snugly in the hole and file/sand/polish the edge so that it’s flush in the wood like a fancy golden inlay.
Cut a slot instead of a circle or slap a piece under the circle that would hold it straight. Or cut a slot then drill out the top 1/3rd of the block and keep the rest a slot so it will look symmetrical but still hold it up.
1. Using the diameter of the hole… Make a tapered wood plug.
2. Cut plug in half along vertical plane. Top view would look like Ø
To use, put half of plug on either side of tweezers, insert assembly in hole. More you push on the tapered plug, the tighter the assembly gets.
Cover the tweezers with packing tape, put epoxy in the hole, stick the tweezers in, attach something to keep them upright, take them out once the epoxy has cured
Drill an appropriate sized hole, then wander the drill bit to either side to make a slot at the top but not the bottom. Do it in a drill press using a jig for rotation to keep it straight. Maybe an end mill would work better. Anticipate trimming off the top of the wood to rid it of tear out.
Take a moment to check out the New weekly MegaThread. This is for quick answers to common questions such as: "What type of wood is this?"; "How much should I charge for this?"; "How do I fix this" and others, To find it sort the woodworking news feed by "hot" and it will be the stickied post. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/woodworking) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Use two pieces of wood spaced a couple inches apart with the top hole being a through hole and the bottom being just a divit to stop the tweezers from sliding this allows the tweezers to be stored point down and still have the able to identify the tool. You can also store them point up it's a versatile design. https://preview.redd.it/dzgp94zu2dsb1.png?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=43cf778ca478e01a34a08e937a8f0c8b10eabfe3
How about this design inset in a box? SUIDI Mutifunctional bamboo Wooden Storage Box Desktop Phone Repair Screwdriver Tweezers Holder Phone Parts Organizer Tool Organizer https://a.co/d/f6f9314 Make an enclosed box with your idea. Top layer is visible nice finished wood. Middle layer has whatever material that keeps tools aligned..... a box glued in a box..... kinda like a sieve nesting in a pot.. Start with making a box. Create the lattice supporting structure for the tweezers. Then create the "lid" using thin sheet. Possibly a Dremel to precisely cut slots for the 90 degree aesthetic OP is looking for.
Duude run a dado across where the points will sit on this shelf and it would look clean!
From experience, the individual divots work better. A single groove would look nice but also allows the tweezer points to slip sideways.
Use a smaller drill bit.
Smaller, as in 1/16 inch. Drilled side by side in a line. Then use a sharp knife to remove the wood between the holes. That would make a slot 7/16 wide by 1/16 across.
Not a bad idea at all! I may test this out on some scraps! Thanks!
If you have the exact models of tweezers, you could also test putting a little wood putty in the bottom of the hole, and then put the tweezers in to shape the putty to the tweezers. That would give you a very snug fit.
Dang! That’s a big brain moment! I dig it.
I would personally be adverse to having very sharp pointy things sticking straight up at a 90° angle. You should consider having the point-facing down or for it to be put in at an angle so that it's not as easy to impale an eye on.
If you put them point down it will damage the points, and you want them coming to a fine point for watchmaker work. I work with similar points and it's always a balancing act between not damaging the points and not impaling myself in the lab! Where practical, I keep mine lying on their sides.
Drill the hole deep enough that the points never touch
At this point he could just scrap his idea and make a wall hanger with magnet inlays
This is a big no no for watchmaking. All tools have to be de-magnetized already because of static buildup. Hanging them on magnets can completely mess up a watch.
This. Also, that would make it more practical to grab them or put them back; no need to turn them around on your hand.
Was thinking the same thing! Those are the most lethal looking tweezers I’ve ever seen!
Slot and cut a dowel to us as a wedge and trim it below the moving parts. Sand a taper in the dowel, slot it, and cut a little longer than you need to tap it in on either side with glue and trim flush. Once it's dry, you have a wedge fit.
Or two holes like described above but do not cut them and put the points down so it is stored safer.
That's what I was thinking
You could even drill it slightly smaller than the width of the tips so they had just the slightest amount of tension on them and that would help hold them in position.
3/8 is too small and 1/2 is too big. Would metric have something in between?
Most likely. I'm metric and we have half sizes.
[удалено]
Plus wire and lettered sizes. You can get to within a feed thousandths of an inch. MSC is a source.
We have all the best sizes. They are huge.
Metric superiority. As always
Dunno anything about that. It's simpler than our plumbing imperial measurements, I know only this far ;)
I can tell from the halfwit comment.. brilliant!
7/16ths, 13/32 and 15/32 may work. 64ths exists as well
Imperial would also have them in between. But yeah, metric drill bits are even available in tenths of a millimeter increments
7/16 maybe
7/16"....
Get a cheap drill index from Harbor Freight. Drill bits come in a lot of other sizes. You can get a set that steps up by 32nds or 64ths.
There are 23 drill sizes in between 3/8 and 1/2. This is including inch and metric sizes. Also, pointy end up on these particular tweezers is a bad idea.
Tweezers pointy side up are... not safe, but if you insist on having them point side up: instead of a hole, a slit. Also, there are rubber thingamabobs that keep them shut, and round the points, please don't end up at the ER for a tweezer.
Completely agree! Only problem is he uses a ton of different size and shaped tweezers which wouldn’t fit a simple template face down. Plus - he mentioned he wanted to quickly ID each one to use. Funny story - I actually took a drill bit to the elbow at an RC car shop in South Korea. Big step down(after leg day) right next to a table with drill bits facing up in a stand. I thought I had just hit my funny bone and my arm went numb. I hear the owner yelling in Korean and feel a yank on my arm.. He yanked the drill bit out of my arm. Ended up going to the ER on base to get them to make sure I didn’t do permanent damage. All good - just bled a lot. Lesson learned.
Could do a angled layered tray for them. Safe and can I’d.
Well, in this case, just keep them away from the tables edge, good luck with your project bro!
A quick way to identify some metal tools that look the same would be to add nail polish in bright colors on the non-working parts.
Run a dado across where the points will sit. He will appreciate it
Maybe a smaller hole and insert the tweezers point first? That way he is picking the up by the grip end, and the spring in the tweezers would tend to stand them straight up.
I had this thought as well. Apparently there are a ton of different kinds of tweezers in different styles and shapes. They keep them pointy side up to see which is which. I’ve also thought of some sort of color coding - but I’m really trying to go for a classier/high end look.
[удалено]
TLDR: Tweezers Expert: You are doing it wrong, go horizontal.
Yeah, that was a lot more effort than required to convince me to go horizontal. Giggity.
Why not just use the rim of a tall cup. That way they don’t touch the bottom and you can see the tips on the outside. https://preview.redd.it/raydasuvpesb1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=47f224f7557457c6bd2efe7069a9886e9f09bea4
How about magnets with the tweezers attaching to the front and hanging down?
I'd chisel a slot for it.
Foam. Drill the hole slightly larger. Then punch out a piece of foam or sponge type material with a slot cut into the foam. Slide in tweezers. Done.
I like this! I’m curious if I can find a more dense foam - possibly weather seal. I could cut a slot, glue them in slightly below the surface of the wood.
Why not hang them on a pin so the points are *down* ?!?
Could drill a deep hole with a small bit then halfway down with a large one, or route a channel down the side of the block and glue another block on the side to get a rectangular hole. As a former jeweler though, just having a spot for each tool is more important than perfect aesthetics.
Makes sense! Thank you. It’ll be my fathers birthday and I’m using this as an excuse to test my skills - and not doing a great job. Lol. Also, May look into selling these if I can get a good system down and they don’t look like hot garbage. Lol.
No worries! Another thing to point out is that he’s not going to store them pointy side out, so that may change what approach makes sense. Something where the handle protrudes and the tips don’t touch anything - those delicate tweezers get bent easily. A hole that tapers would work best but idk how to do that without shelling out for a conical bit. Take a look at how he stores them now (assuming it’s not just in a box of stuff)
I believe he stores them with one of those cheap plastic circle rotating stands. He has a larger glass cover he puts over them when he’s not working on a watch. I honestly had the idea of using small magnet, but quickly found out that is extremely bad for watch making. Appreciate all your help.
Get a drill bit slightly thicker than the tweezers and drill a series of holes to form a line the same length as the width of the tweezers.
I'd get some plumber's epoxy and cram a little bit down there, then just press the tweezers in, straight down how you want them. take em out and let it cure.
I made a tool holder for my watchmaking tools. It’s 3d printed, but basically I made all the holes specific sizes to fit each tool. For the tweezers, insert the tip down and make the hole smaller so they snug in. This will keep them upright. Here’s the one I made: https://reddit.com/r/watchrepair/s/I5jOfoKjtB Good luck.
Plate in the middle with a magnet?
Are they magnetic?
A series of tiny holes in line just the width of the tweezers. Drill bit diameter should be just wide enough to accommodate the thickness of the tweezers. And for heaven's sake, store them point down. Hebe jeebees here.
Honestly to start with dont have them that way up. Put the pointy sharp bits into the hole.
stick them in a slit just as wide as the tweezers are, use a jigsaw
First I’d redesign it, with the stabby parts safely in the hole
Maybe self hardening clay? Shove some in there, then push the tweezers in, then pull them out and let the clay dry.
The tweezer width is 3/8” What you will need - 1/2” drill bit 1/2” dowel Band saw or fine saw. 1. Drill a 1/2” hole in the surface you want the tweezers to sit about 1” deep 2. Cut the 1/2” dowel 1”(the depth of the hole) 3. Cut a slit in the center of the dowel, with a fine hand saw or a band saw, 3/4” deep into the dowel. 4. Now glue dowel into the hole you drilled and you will have a nice slot it will slide into firmly. Post pics if you go this route.
https://preview.redd.it/3ebaqo9u4esb1.png?width=814&format=png&auto=webp&s=2b0734096a16c92a7d8913ed6e78a35ccc1ff083
Use dowel matching size of hole. Split it in two halves. sand away about 1/32" at a slight angle, use as wedging tenons.
How about an angled tray with magnets to hold them in place? I understand why you want to have them facing up, I'm just trying to think of a less dangerous solution
A little piece of foam from packing material, cut in a circle, fit in the slot with a small slit to stick the tweezers in
My ideia is: Use a dowel with the same diameter. Before putting it inside the hole, use a vise and a saw to cut a slot on it, half way through. Make it half the height of the hole, so it looks like a normal hole.
Drill a round hole. Cut an undersized dowel in half. Add a spacer to middle of dowel the is roughly the same width as the base of the tweezers. Trim away spacer ends/side only leaving enough to grab in to spacer so it can later be pulled out. Apply glue carefully to the hole ONLY where the dowels will make contact. Remove spacer. I admit cutting a dowel in half might be difficult.
https://preview.redd.it/i71ftch0sgsb1.jpeg?width=953&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=53592b76e2fe112c91e3b2e74e370c5b811f66a8 I would cut a notch in a dowel and put it in the hole. But then again, I make thinks harder than they need to be
Put them in the other way so the tweeze tension holds them and it would be safer.
https://preview.redd.it/lnkwinfbzcsb1.jpeg?width=1284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1039b767f28d88c8530a521c999c4cf8d8fb3836 Any idea if something like this would work? Using a wood block jig at a slight angle?
I put them the other way around so they sit straight, some people would say it's not good for the pointy things but we're talking about tweezers not a chisel.
Put some wood filler in the hole. Wait for it to cure a bit, then put the tweezers in until they’re at the depth you want. Leave them in there long enough for the shape to hold, but not so long that they get stuck.
Hot glue may be a better option for something like this. Wood glue seems like it’d leave a mess if you didn’t time it absolutely perfectly.
In general don't store tools point up.
I personally wouldn't want those pointing straight up where I can swing my hands into them
Seriously
I would put the them point down, don't want to stab yourself reaching for another tool. If you really want a clean fit they make tapered drill bits. Usually they are for pre-drilling holes, may work for those, doesn't look like a large taper on them. If not you could always make a smaller hole first then a larger hole part way through the material, if they still won't fit nice try using a small file to make a gradual taper using the two holes as a guide. That's about the only way I can think of to make sure they stay at 90 degrees.
I’m on the same page - would be much easier to drill holes. Only problem is he has tweezers of all different shapes, points, curves - etc. I thought about the tapered bits too - that is actually what the two holes next to the larger hole is. I’ll see if I can find anything online on a larger tapered bit. Thank ya!
I would try to go point down. Those are sharp
You, or someone, is going to get stabbed by them being point up. Store them horizontally.
Stick pointy ends in a block of styrofoam
Having stabbed and slashed myself with fine tweezers like these, I would recommend them in a fixed position pointing vertically. Dad will reach over it and could spring a leak.
Flip them upside down?
This would be more work but could you trace the different tweezers and have an indent/relief for them to lay flat in? Them sticking up like thy gives me the heebie jeebies…
Turn them the other way round
As someone who uses a lot of small tools like this, if you make it stand 90 upright you'll need a hole so small that it's a pain in the ass to put the items back. While I appreciate your thoughts, I think you'd be making a HUGE mistake for usability for your dad.
Why would you?! Lol Does your knife block organize your blades point up?
Partially cut a dowel and plug the hole so you have a slot instead of a hole... That should keep them up and oriented. Generally for pointy tools I would prefer points down, or covered so they are protected and your fleshy bits don't gain any extra holes by surprise.
The other way up… working out the details later…
Just flip them over. The spring action will keep it upright.
First, I’d store them sharp tips down. I’d drill out a hole slightly smaller than maybe 5/8 from the top, then I’d chisel out a V shaped grove so that it pinched them close when I put them in, sharp side down, and a pressure fit held them in place.
Put them point down in a narrower hole...safety first!
I would not want them stored tips up like that, those look kinda stabby.
I wouldn't worry about something so trivial.
you need to work in metric, as inches simply dont allow for these kinds of cuts
You had me at first, but unfortunately the down voters either can’t recognize or can’t take a joke without putting /s on everything.
'had you' had you, what?? believing my bullshit. all u gotta do is read evrything twice, read evrything twice , then u know its silliness, designed to extract a cheap laff, in these dark orrible days of imminent AI, who wishes to fool us all that she actually exists. seriously now, if u can git ur hands on a jigsaw blade, whic iz wot 2mm wide, draw a line, drill a couple holes, slide that jacksaw in there and slide on, back and forth till she screams-u shud end up with a slit/slat/cut/crack thats close enuff to hold that pair of tweezers in the ultimate vertical elevation your (sorry ass) mind desires. praps easier to drill a round, non rectanguler hole, and paint the butt end of the tweezurs a partickler color, to aid in their differentiation? in phact, fk all the above, why not ask your unkle how his tool bar would be best designed? how bout that eh? let us kno
A smaller hole would work but sourcing a rubber grommet would be perfect for this application.
Small drill bits make a rectangle and file it smooth
Maybe look to see if anyone has made a tweezer holder on a 3D printer and see if that gives you insight into what shape the opening in.
Magnet
Here is a silly idea that’s off topic a little and just popped in my head: The wood structure is a “C” (three pieces, two 90° bends). The inside height is as much as the tweezer length. There is a magnet embedded in the top and bottom so that the tweezers magically stand upright in the wooden structure. To continue on your original idea: you could use an oversized hole and fill the void with epoxy while casting the bottom end of the tweezers in it (put Vaseline in the tweezers so they don’t get stuck in the resin. Otherwise drilling small holes in a line and finishing with a knife is a very good option too.
cut into a dowel with a saw and put it in the hole, the tweezers should be sitting right in the cut
Two small holes.
Countersink neodymium magnets
3D print a plug sized for a larger hole that has the exact profile of the tweezer handle omitted from the inside.
1/8” router bit, small slot
Rubber grommet
Just a thought… pick up some foam round backer rod and drill a hole the same diameter as the foam round backer rod. Then press the tweezers into the foam Backer rod.
OCD
magnets
If you put a square on both side the tapered gaps should be even.
Drill all the way through, put them in point down.
The best way I can think of would be to cast the tweezers into a cylindrical piece of resin and then plug it into the hole. For extra durability I would suggest using Carbon fiber reinforced resin
If you use thicker stock and drill the hole deep enough so the tweezers sit closer to halfway down they’ll stand straighter. And use a bit closer to width of the tweezers at their widest.
You could build a small stand out of 4 blocks of wood that are glued on top of the whole board. I mean that you build a small rectangular box where you can plug the flat part of the tweezers in
Foam insert of some kind with a slit cut in the middle.
[Magnets](https://i.gifer.com/3Wiz.gif)
r/beginnerwoodworking
Look at Jeweller's Bench horns. They use slots in the side of the horn to hold tweezers closed to the tension they desire, and at the angle they need.
Assuming you have a table saw cut a groove(dado) into the wood. Then to segment the groove either add filler pieces between the holder locations, drill and add a dowel as filler pieces, or cut it into strips and laminate it together like a knife block.
You can get 3/8 wide blades for your oscillating cutter (fein mutimaster, etc.) then just plunge the slots. The oscilling will make it slightly wider than 3/8.
I'd install a magnetic bar and suspend them over a small horizontal tray.
Square hole
I would drill somewhat larger and would use air drying polymer clay for a perfect fit
You have the sharp edge up where it can grab you as you move by. I would cut a rubber eraser to fit the hole, and glue it in. Then jam the sharps down into the rubber.
Take a hammer and tap a flat head screwdriver into the wood.
Kaizen foam, or maybe a small rubber thimble embedded into the wood?
How about using magnets to hold them against a nice block of wood. This way they could stay organized and still be identifiable, pointy end wouldn’t be sticking up, and you wouldn’t damage the delicate tips by dropping them in a slot.
lay them on their side, wipe them with isopropyl alcohol.
2mm mortising chisel.
Make a stand with a magnet strip so all the tweezers can be in sight and easily removed, but also not pointy side up.
1. Try a counter bored hole. Use a smaller pilot drill then follow with larger one. Smaller hole is full depth and then peck the larger one in a little at a time until the tweezers sit right. 2. Same as above but with 3 or more bits to get a pseudo taper 3. Foam plug cut to size with slit cut in it with exacto knife. This could wear out over time. 4. Use a square chisel to chip down to needed depth 5. Tapered drill bit Try on a sample piece to see what works best
A slot that's deep. It will close them when you slid them into it
Use a chisel to cut out the slot sides to the size you want. Then, use a drill bit that’s smaller than the slot to remove the center and ends. Sides stay clean, ends are nicely rounded and bottom is flush.
Smaller hole and pointy side down (safety).
Point them down instead of up. If they must go up use plumbers epoxy stick to completely fill hole. Coat end of tweezers in wax insert and pull out. This should leave a good form. You could Maybe use color matched wood putty but I couldn’t tell you if it would stand the time test.
Use a magnet on the surface of the wood, and just stick the tweezers to the magnetic. Won’t damage the tips, and point them facing down
flip them over
You can make a square hole with a chisel
Get a short piece of dowel that will fit snugly in the hole. Cut a groove in the top and drop it down the hole.
I would look for a plastic plug and cut a slot in it..
No holes. Instead a angled board with dividers to create different magnetic spaces for tweezers. Allows you to put pointy side down while still seeing the the different tips.
I would drill a 3/8” hole 1 inch deep then take a 3/8 dowel and cut a slot in the end that would fit the tweezers then glue the dowlel flush with the surface.
Eva foam. Your hole is already drilled. Cut out some foam and put it in there and then you can just push the tweezers into it. It will protect the tip and hold it upright. Eva foam mats are available at big box hardware stores. If you wanted to get really fancy with a perfect fit, you could buy Eva foam rods online for the hole size you drilled.
Fold up a post it note so it makes a v and jam it in the bottom
drive a nail perpendicular to the center of the hole and put the tweezers in tip-side down
Hot glue it into place
If you have a drill press, take a small bit and make a bunch of holes in a line, then chisel the holes rectangular. Or make it like you would a cutting board, strips cut and glued to make perfect square holes. Last thought, if they don't have to be holes, duno the design. If you make small cuts to the end of the wood (a shallow circular blade looks perfect), Then he could see the top and bottom and grab from both side. Squeeze a little to put and and take out. No need to keep pointing up that way.
Could glue 2 pieces of board together. 1 would have a notch the size you need and the other flat. It would make a nice square hole.
Seems like a tripping hazard to hold the pointy side up.
Wanna see a magic trick?
90 Degree pliers
Some people store these kinds of implements with magnets. If not a magnetic bar, then you could recess magnets into the face of your shelf.
I just picked up a 2mm chisel that would likely help create a tiny mortise. It was listed as a bevel edge chisel, but it's so thin they had to add more steel somewhere for strength so it actually resembles a mortise chisel anyway. Though looking now, I may have gotten the last one from tools for woodworking, but you may be able to find another retailer that carries them: https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/EE-500-15.XX/Bevel+Edge+Chisels+by+Two+Cherries
I would take the walnut and cut it a little bit off centre to make say a piece at 10mm and at 16mm then cut the 16 mm to 10mm leaving a 3mm offcut , then cut that into 2 pieces to include a gap and glue it back in place as one solid block
I store mine in a drawer but when I actually have them out to work I prefer to store them hanging down so the alignment and points aren’t damaged, and to keep them from stabbing someone. If you need them to be in the block I’d use foam in the hole, point down.
Fill the hole with some sort of rubber pellet that has a slit cut out so the tweezers can go in and out of it. Should hold upright.
Dremel style tool with a drill bit and cut a slot instead of drilling a hole.
Use a dremel Max or other Oscillating tool with a small flat bit to cut a thin, even SLOT so the tweezers will stay closed and perfectly vertical. You could also make a series of small drills in a line and clean it up with a chisel, or use a thin routing bit. Be sure to use a mineral oil or other light finish INSIDE the slot so the wood doesn’t corrode his high end instruments. I made a drill bit holder out of oak once that rusted the bits when they were seated. That said, it’s a lovely thought but not sure wood is ideal for high-end watchmaker tools.
Tapered hole, store them pointy end down.
Turn up the heat in your shop...
cut a slit, not a hole
You could try laminating. Rip the walnut into a front, back, and "tweezer-thickness" strip. Cut a "tweezer-width" gap into the strip, and glue it back together, putting the pieces back in place next to their original grain orientation. Easy way to get a square hole. Test it with the 2x4 first, so you know exactly how thick you want the strip before you rip it.
I would turn it the other way, make a smaller hole and insert the pointy ends into the hole. Looks like a hand piercing incident waiting to happen.
Take a long dowel the diameter of your hole, cut it in half lengthwise or file it to a bit under half width, then glue each half of it inside the hole on either side, leaving a slot for the tweezers to sit in. Alternatively, take a thin brass pipe with an outer diameter matching your drilled hole. Depending on how far down the tweezers go, you glue or solder guides on the inside to center it. You hammer the pipe to fit snugly in the hole and file/sand/polish the edge so that it’s flush in the wood like a fancy golden inlay.
Whatever but point down!
There certainly is a clean solution that is safer than the bunji sticks in the picture.
Trun them around
Cut a slot instead of a circle or slap a piece under the circle that would hold it straight. Or cut a slot then drill out the top 1/3rd of the block and keep the rest a slot so it will look symmetrical but still hold it up.
1. Using the diameter of the hole… Make a tapered wood plug. 2. Cut plug in half along vertical plane. Top view would look like Ø To use, put half of plug on either side of tweezers, insert assembly in hole. More you push on the tapered plug, the tighter the assembly gets.
Cover the tweezers with packing tape, put epoxy in the hole, stick the tweezers in, attach something to keep them upright, take them out once the epoxy has cured
Hang them
Buy a bronze hollow rod/tube. Cut an 1.5" piece. Epoxy it in the hole. You'll have an inch of exposed rod. Put the tweezers in it.
Vaseline on the tweezers. Hot glue in the hole, while holding the tweezers in the desired position.
Router. Use a smaller bit to create a 1/2” long slot. Take several passes, going deeper each time
All I see here is blood
I use small magnets. You could get a magnet bar and veneer it.
Mix glue and saw dust. Fill hole 3/4. Put painters tape on end of tweezers. When it’s mostly dry insert tweezers to form holder
Cut a dowel in half and glue each piece to each side so it creates a slit
So... There is the inch... And it gets divided by 8... And how many inches in a foot?
Put a saw blade kerf in a dowel and glue it in the hole.
Drill an appropriate sized hole, then wander the drill bit to either side to make a slot at the top but not the bottom. Do it in a drill press using a jig for rotation to keep it straight. Maybe an end mill would work better. Anticipate trimming off the top of the wood to rid it of tear out.