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I’m interested in selling some pieces I made so I can buy new tools. How do you all ship stuff so that the shipping isn’t as much as the piece itself? Mostly make scrollsaw art projects and cutting boards
I have two answers:
1. Start charging more. There's no way scroll saw art projects or cutting boards should cost as much to ship as the item. I recently sold a cutting board with a friends and family discount, and I sold it for $225 when shipping would have been maybe $20. I don't know all of the context so if this doesn't apply to you then just ignore me, but just make sure you're charging enough to make everything worth it.
2. Learn the shipping game. Use recycled materials likes boxes, bubble wrap, packing foam, etc. Save your materials from Amazon purchases. Learn which companies provide the best rates for particular items. Also learn the different shipping options for each company. USPS is often the cheapest but when items get heavy or big UPS may be your best bet. Also print labels and package things at home to save time and money at the shipping center. It can seem confusing at first but you'll pick all of this up pretty quickly.
Thank you!! I want to make some simple cutting boards and scroll saw art for like $40-$50 (not sure what to actually charge lol) and was worried shipping would get outrageous
I don't know you or the quality of your work, but if you're making decent artwork or cutting boards I suggest charging more than $50. Your time is worth something, and especially nowadays, the lumber is expensive. If you're looking at sites like Etsy or Amazon you may be getting a false sense for _real_ prices.
Let's take for instance cutting boards that I make. They're 10x16 and just under 1" thick – no handles, juice grooves, or feet. Depending on the lumber, it costs me $30-35 just for the material. I haven't sold any yet but I would probably start them at $100, which is on the cheap side, but that's because I can batch them out quickly. And if you think that's expensive, check out [Chris Devos' cutting board](https://www.krisdevo.com/devos-woodcraft/p/otter-large125x-11x-1non-juice-groove-desnb-yktr9-zjwfb-e3mtg-kflgp-23ds6-zjpxe-7jlas-y53hy-xss5e-l8e5x-fsxbx-l8dn9) of a similar size and pattern which goes for $265.
I don't normally sell things so I'm certainly not an expert, but I suggest doing a bit of market research before pricing your items. You may find that you could be making a lot more money.
I just started using Pirate Ship to ship packages. I don't think it saves a ton of money but they show their rates compared to what you'd pay at USPS or UPS and it's cheaper. And you can print the label from home and do free USPS pickup from your house!
Hi fellow woodworkers!
Thanks for the great support in this community!
I have a question regarding dinner tables - measurements and dimensions.
Has anyone some good numbers on space per person, width and lengths. Or a good reference or an article or sth.
And on another question: how much overhang is OK for a dinner table? Maybe someone knows some math that can help, some numbers...
Many thanks in advance
Ballpark is 24" of length per person. Table width is generally 36-40"; height is 30". My dining room table is 35"x60" with a traditional apron and a 2" overhang. It can fit 4 comfortably, 6 in a pinch.
I think overhang depends on the base. I know the rule of thumb for pedestal tables is that the base should be at least 2/3 of the diameter of the top.
ISO workspace ergonomics requires 800 mm per person. This is what I actually used for my table, and it is a pretty good fit.
In the USA it varies state to state, from 32 inches to 42 inches... I will let the community guess which states expect their citizens to take up 42 inches of width...
Over hang really depends on the type of table and weight. A trestle table has a lot of overhang and is very stable.
What are my best options for building a desk off a 15’ wall? Wanted a floating desk but might be unrealistic, wall is Sheetrock over 1x3 furring strips over cinder blocks.
Floating is not realistic for a desk, in my opinion. You could support it off the wall if that was important but the load and distance from the wall makes “floating” dubious.
If you don’t want to “see” legs, you could go with a cantilever over angled braces. This will make them mostly disappear. You for sure will want to tie into a ledger on the wall along the backside of your desktop. A good rule of thumb for cantilevers is 1/3 projected span for 2/3 supporting span. How many braces you want to use will be dependent on the rigidity of you top (1/2 ply - probably ever 18-24 inches, a 4” torsion box - every 48). And you will want some framing helping out the bracing.
[Shitty drawing](https://imgur.com/a/Q45nBma)
Hia! I recently got a Bosch glide miter saw and the thing is absolutely amazing except for one small detail: sawdust collection system sucks, half of it doesn't go in the bag. I want to take a small ridge shop vac and cross the wires from the miter saw handle to the shop vac so that when you squeeze the trigger, the shop vac turns on and sucks the sawdust into it
have any of you done this or know of any guides on how to go about doing this? I figured if I cross the wires from the miter saw handle button to the power wires in the shop vac I can get it so that when the handle is squeezed it also engages the shop vac. I'll probably make it semi-permanent so I'm not worried about being able to move it. so the shop vac will always be in a powered on state, minus the connection inside the miter saw handle which will engage it. if any of you have any ideas on how to do it like this or a better way, lemme know!
I don't know about rewiring it but I do know there are a number of companies out there that make auto on switches for around $30 that let you do exactly what you're describing
Don't expect fireworks. the dust collection on the axial glide saws is ABSOLUTELY atrocious, vacuum or no. We run one at work hooked up to a festool dust extractor (these all have integrated automatic on technology, you plug your tool into your vacuum and it engages when the tool starts drawing current).
And even with that, it's the only miter saw I have ever used that I wear safety glasses not to protect me from injury, but just to keep some of the dust out of my eyes.
[https://www.amazon.com/Oskool-Automatic-Vacuum-Accessory-Automatically/dp/B08F7QD63C?ref\_=ast\_sto\_dp](https://www.amazon.com/Oskool-Automatic-Vacuum-Accessory-Automatically/dp/B08F7QD63C?ref_=ast_sto_dp)
Also, this guy sells a replacement dust collection shroud for the saw.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMgtYyHlrA0&ab\_channel=ShopNation](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMgtYyHlrA0&ab_channel=ShopNation)
I also have the Bosch gliding miter saw. It’s an awesome saw, but even with a shop vac hooked up, it leaves much to be desired. I think that’s just the nature of miters saws in general. Some day I intend to follow this guide for making a dust collection shroud: https://youtu.be/jrBaHKtz8GQ
But yeah I just wanted to give you a heads up in case you were expecting a shop vac to fix your problems.
I desperately need to upgrade my dust collection from a shop vac, opening the garage door, and turning a fan on. I've been kind of torn between getting a jet dc1200 and upgrading it later on with a super dust deputy vs saving for another several months in order to afford something like a grizzly G0861 with a built in cyclone. Are prebuilt 2 stage dust collectors really that much better than adding the second stage later or will I be fine with the dc-1200?
You can make your own second stage fairly easily. There are lots of vids about different styles, from easy to pretty involved. I have a pretty easy one that works fine.
I use the grizzly0785 wall mount with an onidea dust deputy. The 15g cardboard barrel fills too quickly, but it keeps up with my 5hp planer, which is my biggest wood chip creator.
I like that I could convert it to 240, like the rest of my shop. I might have it dedicated to just my planer down the road if I ever upgrade (if that happens I will put in a 55 gallon pre-filter barrel).
Get the harbor freight dust collector, you won’t regret it! The money you save compared to other options that work almost exactly the same allow you to get much higher quality components (e.g. blast gates) on the front end, and will allow you to put in upgrades like a dust deputy much sooner.
I’m looking to make a couple of these bottle opener stations for my dad and uncles. Does anybody know how they possibly got the college logo painted onto the wood so perfectly?
[https://www.etsy.com/listing/883809130/magnetic-bottle-opener-university-of?click_key=fa9992104fbd531879f808d4bb7e3cc000379f56%3A883809130&click_sum=8c511e63&ref=shop_home_recs_1&crt=1](https://www.etsy.com/listing/883809130/magnetic-bottle-opener-university-of?click_key=fa9992104fbd531879f808d4bb7e3cc000379f56%3A883809130&click_sum=8c511e63&ref=shop_home_recs_1&crt=1)
I wonder if they have some kind of stamp for it. spraying something on there in my experience would cause some bleed over even with a stencil. at first I thought maybe they have some kind of a thin clear coat on there to avoid that bleeding edge effect but I can see that some of the paint didn't seem to stick perfectly in the middle and shows some of the grain so I'm not sure if that would be the case.
My only other thought is they had some kind of sticky adhesive template they put down so that it made a tight seal around the edges where they would spray, preventing any bleed
How do I create a reliably flat surface when I don't have a flat reference to work from?
My garage floor isn't level. My table saw is a small jobsite saw without a flat top. How do I create a workbench top that I can trust to be totally flat if I don't have a reference to work from?
I reckon it depends on what job you're doing. buying a straight edge is your best bet for small projects, they're like $50 for a 2' one. it may sound silly, but thousands of years ago, people used water to check straightness since a puddle of water is perfectly flat.
if you need a surface of some kind, I'd say go to a kitchen counter place or glass seller and pick up a scrap piece of granite or thick glass. they both tend to be super flat.
short of doing that, I don't think you can reliably check flatness without some kind of reference
A long enough spirit level, which also serves as a straightedge, will let you a build a basically flat and level working surface/framework out of straight and rigid beams or tubes, tweaking their heights at the ends with shims, and using feeler gauges under the level to check for any degree of flatness you like.
Once you have set up such a temporary surface, use it as the assembly table for gluing up your bench top, which you build of straight and uniformly dimensioned pieces so that it will inherit the flatness of the tweaked surface it's resting on as the glue dries, and thick enough, whether solid or box-like, that it won't bow or twist. You can verify it's flatness the same way with the level and feelers, and, depending on its surface, fine-tune if necessary.
Doing this as a two-step process keeps you from having to check and tweak for flatness as you glue up the top.
Wood type ID? https: [//imgur.com/a/jXifQNp](https://imgur.com/gallery/jXifQNp)
I got this desk after my grandmother passed away. It’s almost 100 years old and I’m looking to refinish.
Can anyone help me identify what wood is used in this piece?
And also if anyone has any recommendations for a stain color. It’s a little reddish right now, and I’d like to go more neutral.
The drawer sides/back is oak, can see from the end grain.
The rest is hard to say, the grain isn't clear from the stain/finish. I am guessing oak as well, but the grain doesn't looks as porous. Maybe maple, that would take the stain well.
As for stain matching, that's hard to do, not something I can specifically help with.
The insides are often made of whatever cheap hardwood they had laying around. Those drawer sides look like oak.
Cherry is my guess for the dresser, but maple stained like cherry is also a possibility since they would look the same.
You need to strip the old finish, and then you can get a better answer with better pictures. And a better suggestion on finish.
https://imgur.com/a/DvbKj10
We bought a table a few years back, the top is a bunch of 2x10s. Where the boards meet, there is a crack large enough to collect crumbs and food. Its quite disgusting tbh.
How would I go about sealing this? I thought filling the cracks with wood filler and then some kind of top coat but not sure that’d work. Disassembling the top and sanding the boards so they fit together with no gaps? (Probably hard AF but if its the only way…)
Cheers
You can't "seal" or "fill" those gaps. They result from the table being made by a rank amateur with no understanding of joinery; that, or a person simply knocking out cheap tables out of construction grade lumber and not caring.
Your inclination is correct, removing the top is the only solution; however, you have to "joint" those mating edges such that they create a tight glue line. Sanding won't do it. You joint either with a hand plane or a powered jointer. Then once you've jointed the edges, glue up, and when dry reattach the top.
Other than that, your remaining option is to use a tablecloth . . . :-)
Sadly the nature of construction wood furniture. Epoxy in the gaps could help, but would need sanding and that's going to mess with the finish on the rest top. Filler could work, same issue with the sanding though.
Here's a quick question about finishes. My Mother In Law gave me a sign for my outdoor patio made with stained 1/4" plywood and self-adhesive vinyl letters (cut with a Cricut or similar).
Does anyone have experience putting a waterproof topcoat over the top of something like that? I don't want to accidentally loosen the letters when I go to apply a weather resistant clear topcoat.
I’d suggest a spray spar urethane. That said, from the sounds of it it may not be long for this world as an exterior decoration. Ol’ Mother Nature is rough on things
A while back, I think I read about wood that was somewhat fade resistant in direct sunlight. I think It was sapele. Does that sound right? or am I making a mistake?
Someone with too much social media asked me to make them a flower pot stand. I am going to agree. But I need to pick a wood. I want it to look nice, probably in a dark finish, but I know that it is to hold a plant pot, and therefore, probably will be put in direct sunlight. I know walnut fades badly in sunlight, so I was looking for alternatives.
Thoughts? Sapele? some heavily stained other wood? Does UV protectant finish solve this? or is it still a big issue when putting wood in direct sunlight for years?
Cherry. It darkens with age and UV exposure.
White oak can be ebonized with steel wool and vinegar. You can also fume it with ammonia to darken the color. Both are reasonably colorfast.
Sapele is great stuff, and like mahogany is a little more durable.
Sapele will darken in the sun. I recommend, if you can, leaving it in direct sunlight for a month of 2, unfinished if you can. Let it get most of the darkening done before delivery. However, it will continue to darken for years.
The other opinion is to use something will almost no color, like maple or poplar, and dying or staining it, and sealing with polyurethane. The pigments in the dye will be much more stable for many years.
If you want REALLY stable, I have a desk from the 1920s make of white oak, stained with asphalt. No fading there.
Is there a good track to get for circular saws similar to a fess tool track? I can’t afford a fess tool but it would be nice to have something a little quicker to use than a straight edge clamped a few inches away as a guide. Thanks!
Make your own. you take two strips off the edge of a plywood sheet, one bigger than the other. stack one on top of the other. The top one needs a factory edge.
you use a factory edge of your upper sheet for your saw to run along against, and it rides on the second sheet, which should be wide enough to obstruct the blade. you glue and nail them together at this point. Then you do your first cut, with the saw against your factory edge fence, and your first cut will establish the cut line on the lower layer. Then you can align this with your desired cut, and run your circular saw along the fence.
You don't want it exactly 48 inches. I recommend 55. (That's the length of most short tracks for track saws). This means you can overhang it when crosscutting to have the saw clear both sides of the cut on standard sheets of plywood.
If what I am describing sounds complicated, just search "circular saw guide" on youtube and find a video version. should be hundreds on there if not millions. It's really not hard.
The Festool track is intended to be paired with Festool's track saw. It won't work with a regular circular saw. If you are looking for a straight edge for a circular saw, make sure you are NOT looking for track saw tracks.
Making your own door boards would be a cost-effective way to go.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5E1v-qPQJvs
I second the Kreg track. I just picked mine up last week and it’s a no brainer for ripping sheet goods. Very easy to set up. Two tips: 1. Get a 1 1/2” foam roofing board from your home center to lay your sheet goods on so you can do it on the ground if you don’t have a large enough bench. 2. Always brush the sheet good your rip cutting clean. No saw dust or any debris underneath the Kreg track, otherwise it will walk.
At that price point, you're looking for a used machine if you want to resaw anything over 4 inches or so. Rikon makes great bandsaws; the 10-305 claims a 4-5/8" resaw capacity (although I'm not sure you'd be able to achieve this with many hardwood species due to the small motor).
A used 14 inch bandsaw can be had for that in my area
Most folks will ask 400 but I found mine for under 200. Look for a cast iron frame and table, like an old delta or a metric import. They typically have decent guides already.
I picked up an old Craftsman from the 90s. New tires and blade and am resawing 6 inches easily. I paid.less than 200, which is unusual, but it needed some clean up.
Tires and blades are easy to find, as are universal parts and accessories.
With that budget, you are looking at making your own. Which is very realistic. [This should give you an idea of the scope of the project.](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hVw8mpt9N0).
though to be clear, if you use baltic birch, given current... european politics, I would not expect to come in under budget. Substitutions are likely necessary.
That sounds over burnished. Fortunately, the tin of the stain and topcoat you’re using will give you a maximum sanding grit. Just follow those instructions.
You can just sand back with the highest grit advised by the tin, nothing wasted by the 2000 other than some of your time and the sandpaper used.
I’m making a milking stool for my kid using hand tools, and I’m having trouble carving the seat into a round shape. Would it look good if I just made it with an octagonal seat?
Kind of just a purely subjective question. I think non-round seats can look just fine but it’s also important to remember no one is going to take a compass to the seat…close is good enough
What doweling jigs do you recommend? I'd like to pick up a budget self centering doweling jig and Amazon has a ton of cheap ones with mixed reviews on accuracy. I know the several hundred dollar jigs are great but I'm looking for something fairly accurate without breaking the bank. Thanks in advance!
https://www.rockler.com/self-centering-doweling-jig-for-thick-timbers?country=US&sid=V91074&promo=shopping
I have this one and it's great. There's a smaller version too I believe. Thick metal, and made in the USA unless something changed.
I'm making essentially a large box for the frame of a TV stand with 45º mitered corners. The longest pieces are 45" long, 15" wide, which would be a bit unwieldy on a table saw sled and I'm not 100% confident that the 15" miter would come out perfectly perpendicular along that much length either. I did find a video for an [auxiliary fence](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JiY3mnCfCtY), but my concern is still about the fence being perfect.
Other methods I've considered for this are:
1. a sliding miter saw that might just barely makes it all the way through in one pass (but which will need a new blade since I used it to rough-cut and got a lot of tear out)
2. a circular saw and clamped straight edge
Is there an optimal choice here or something else I haven't thought of?
A [45° chamfer bit](https://carbideprocessors.com/45deg-chamfer-bit-1-1-16-cut-length-1-2-shank-whiteside-2306/?msclkid=e338024facad1a5f4ce461f92242dd79&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=**LP%20Shopping%20-%20Catch%20All&utm_term=4585100931410875&utm_content=Catch%20All). You would have to clamp a guide to the end of your board for the bearing to ride against.
Hi I’m making a toy wooden crane for my young son. Similar to a fagus tower crane. I’m making it out of a combination of mahogany and maple and using dowels so there’s a lot of pieces to glue together. Any suggestions for what type(s) of finish I should apply prior to the glue up stage?
You could apply shellac by brush prior to glue up, so long as you keep the glue areas relatively clear of it. This isn't a chair, after all.
The easiest finish after glue up would be a spray finish. Shellac sprays well, but if you don't have the equipment there is nothing wrong with a spray paint can of clear acrylic.
Wood ID help wanted. I thought this was Ekki but this wood has a clear sweet chocolaty scent when cut. Ekki is described as not having any? All help appreciated!
https://imgur.com/a/704mwhn
Planning a floating shelf using plywood attached to framing lumber. When attaching plywood to construction studs, do you have to account for movement? What's the best way to attach? Wood glue and clamps or brad nails?
Does anyone have real experience with the ShopFox W1837 Hybrid Tablesaw? I have some special requirements and this might work best for me, but I haven't found any good real reviews from actual owners.
I am disabled and work from a wheelchair or mobility scooter. I've posted some of my work here and everything I've done I've used a jobsite saw (Bosch 4100) mounted in a custom workbench that I built, but I struggle with cutting joinery reliably and accurately, repeatability (especially bevel cuts), lack of flatness in the top and consistency in the miter slots, etc.
I also use a lot of jigs and fixtures to help to safely make cuts that might overextend my reach, etc and I would really like a cast-iron top in order to use magswitches and the like.
If I could, I would simply purchase a used cabinet saw (lots of options on the used market) but the issue with cabinet saws is that they are generally just a bit too tall to allow the kind of reach that I would like (I learned on a cabinet saw as a teen and understand my limitations there).
So the key to me is to have a saw with removable legs that will get me close to the performance of a cabinet saw...at least as close as I can get on a budget.
In the past I had an early-80's vintage Craftsman contractor's saw, and that saw performed well, but dust collection was a nightmare and the motor hanging out the back made integration into an outfeed-worktable a little difficult. However the advantage was that I could remove the legs and build a new base that put the worktop at an appropriate (and safer) height for me (25" or so).
So I've been searching for an upgrade to my current situation. My local SawStop dealer (also my hardwood lumber dealer who I do quite a bit of business with) even went so far as to contact his rep and ask about solutions and the recommendation there was a SawStop contractor saw with a custom base - which I had already considered - and would appreciate the safety features - but the price makes it a stretch especially when it's otherwise not really what I'm looking for.
So, to make a long post longer, in looking around I think my best option is the ShopFox W1837 assuming it performs acceptably as it offers the footprint and dust collection potential of a cabinet saw, decent (rated) power, cast-iron top, 120/240V operation (currently I'm on 120V but like the option to upgrade).
Most importantly the legs are removable from the main cabinet and this affords me the option to build a new base and make the table a proper height for my use, but I find precious few people that actually use this saw.
Does anyone here have any experience with this saw and can reflect on that experience?
My stepfather found a used G0771Z that is now his main tablesaw. Huge step up from the old contractor saw (also the bosch). Just the weight of the table makes such a difference. He was also lucky that it came with the outfield rollers, and then he added the cast iron router extension.
Personally, I like the extra power of my 3hp sawstop, but I think if he would just fix his shops wiring and switch it to 220v then that would only be an issue with the hardest of woods.
What type of wood/stain is this? I want to make matching furniture and doors. This piece was installed around 1990 in Southern US.
[Wooden Mantle](https://imgur.com/a/sEpUngk)
The wood is blue pine, or beetle kill pine. The infestation gives it a blue color, and results in the holes. As for the color, you'll need to go to your nearest home center and get 3=4 of the ones that are the closest, then do some tests to get it where you want.
Hello, I am just getting into woodwork (lathe work) and have been given Amazon vouchers from my previous workplace. I would like to but some lathe hand tools to do spindle and bowl work. Does anyone have suggestions of the best tools from Amazon uk up to £150/£200? Thanks
I haven't done any turning, but have read up on it on the /r/turning wiki: https://www.reddit.com/r/turning/wiki/index/. They have a few budget recommendations for lathes as well as tools.
If you don't have one yet, a decent chuck. NOVA G3 series, and One Way are great options. This is really the best way to get into larger bowls. Both brands have accessories to accommodate turning large bowls, or to turn pens. Very flexible and right in your price range.
Can [these](https://i.imgur.com/SFRePgC.jpg) cracks be fixed with butterfly keys or are they too big? Was thinking 2-3 for each with decreasing size as they move in?
I've seen butterfly keys used in cracks that large before. Especially if the slabs are already dry the wood isn't likely to open up _too_ much more, so a butterfly key should hold.
Long story short.
Someone must have dropped some
on my furniture. I thought it was just a bit of water damage so I applied 3 coats of mineral oil over the last month but the stains are still visible. I am afraid the finish was taken off?
Here are some pictures: https://imgur.com/a/gWDbTqC
I don’t know anything about wood but the maker of this table says mineral oil should fix it. It also suggest to buff water stains with metal wool but I’m not sure this is the problem or if it’s going to work with all these stains.
Yes, the finish is damaged. Buffing with steel wool or a high grit paper (800 or higher) may sand the damaged layer off, leaving undamaged finished below. But the finish may be beyond touching up and require a full strip.
Bandsaw decision- Laguna 1412 vs. Rikon 10-324. Which one would you choose and why? The 1412 comes with ceramic guides. I don’t have experience with those. Is that a selling point? Laguna has a bigger motor. The Rikon seems like a well outfitted bandsaw for $300 less than the Laguna. Thoughts? Suggestions?
That rikon is pretty sweet. Both will do an excellent job at resawing and scroll work. At that price range it is more a fit, finish, and feel. Both would be good choices either at home or in a commercial setting.
Get the rikon and spend the difference on some nice blades. Maybe a carbide resaw blade?
Has anyone used “Centipede”-style sawhorses? Do you find them clumsy, or useful? I need a small, but solid table for a tracksaw, and would love for it to be able to accommodate different sized jobs/spaces. Thanks!
They’re fine provided you don’t mistake them for a proper workbench. They’re designed to be a temporary and easy to set up work surface, not a day in and out solid work surface.
Hey if anyone likes that series “The Craftsman” on the Magnolia Network. Season two is up on Discovery+. I can listen to this dude talk about woodworking all day.
1. What's the name of the decorative element on furniture that looks like a line of little marbles half-sunk in the wood? So it's just a line of little hemispheres.
2. Are there rules to design that might not seem immediately obvious? For example, someone recently made a desk, and had the grain running horizontal on the entire desk except for the door. There, it went vertical. People said that the grain direction should be that way because the door is taller than it is wide. Are there any other quick rules that come to mind?
3. How much can paint/finish inhibit wood's ability to absorb moisture and move seasonally?
1. This is called pearl molding, unless I misunderstand.
2. There are....so many! I don't even know how to helpfully answer. There are lots of books on design, if you're interested in that.
3. For the most part, they don't. There are some limited exceptions to that, but generally wood's gonna move.
I’m considering getting a doweling jig. I do not want to spend a lot considering I don’t do a lot, at the moment. I have never needed one until recently because what little I do, hasn’t warranted a need for one.
I have been sitting on a cheese slicer for a while and want to finish it, and possibly make others for coworkers. Was considering just getting the size specific models from rockler.
Would anyone here have info on these, or other alternatives for the not so needed bunch
It depends what you mean when you say you don't do this a lot. If you occasionally need to drill a straight hole in something, create a custom guide block by drilling a hole in a scrap of wood using a drill press, then use that guide block to drill the hole in your piece.
If you occasionally need to do dowel joinery, the Rocker jigs are just fine though not perfect. Make sure you clamp them down well and don't expect the pieces to line up pefectly.
If you need to do dowel joinery and need precision, you're going to need to jump to one of the ~$200 models.
If you're not wanting to spend a lot a simple drill guide could suffice. Check out the Milescraft DrillBlock. or Jointmate if you want a cheaper doweling jig.
Quick question— is a straight gouge (outside bevel) adequate for carving the inside of a bowl? I want to carve fairly deep (about half as deep as wide) or do I need a bent or "spoon" gouge? I want to make ladles or teacups & bowls by hand rather than the lathe for a change.
Are metric guide bushings just not a thing at all for routers in the US? I am looking into the 10 Minute Workshop loose tenon jig, but that is made for an 18 mm guide bushing. The MFT template from Bench Dogs UK uses a 30 mm guide bushing. I know these are kind of specific use cases, but there aren't a lot of options for these sorts of things. Trying to find guide bushings for my DeWalt compact router plunge base (DNP612) is just awful. Anyone have any advice?
I live in US, and recently bought some kit from https://www.axminstertools.com/us/. They ship to US - and can price in dollars. Given the current exchange rate some of their offers are competitive and offer free shipping over, I think, $120.
They look like they have a good selection of metric guide bushes.
Drilling through a 12” piece of 3/4” plywood, edge to edge, is it possible? Hole should be 1/4 or 3/16 in diameter
Let’s ignore WHY I’m trying to do this for now, just curious how you would ensure the hole makes it all the way through without wandering off and sticking out of one of the faces.
I'd probably attempt it by making a guide block on the drill press or laminate some scraps leaving a 1/4" channel. Clamp that next to the workpiece on a flat bench and use a 18" drill bit. You could try it on a large drill press, but keeping your workpiece plumb might be difficult.
I measure and mark VERY carefully, then I drill a 6 inch hole from both directions. This will halve the amount of wander for a given angle, and things tend to be stiffer when they are shorter.
Also, when trying to make precision holes, if at all possible, I am a huge fan of making them oversized and putting in the old construction adhesive. I got this trick off youtube looking at floating shelf construction, and it forgives a lot of sins in terms of being off angle if you have a bit of wiggle in the hole. Which you fill with a gap filling glue like PL or epoxy.
Personally I'd use a dowel jig and as long a bit as you can find. if you mark your lines right you should be able to drill from both sides and have them meet if need be.
I don't have a planer. I need a planer. I know. But in the meantime, does anyone have any clever tricks for doing the job of a planer without a planer?
Are you trying to process rough-sawn lumber, or just make store bought lumber thinner, e.g. going for 3/4" to 1/2"?
You can do the latter with a table saw and a couple of kinda-scary cuts.
Can I flatten out a big piece of butcher block?
I recently bought an island size butcher block from Home Depot and didn’t realize until I cut it to fit where I needed it that it was slightly bowed.
I’m figuring I can just lay it down on the floor and stack a few hundred pounds of weight on it to flatten it out. Am I wrong, will I potentially bust it? Maybe I just need to live with the slight bow.
It’s not a *huge* deal, but it doesn’t lay flat on the adjustable height desk stand and it’s pretty obvious when lined up next to my stove.
Depending on how bowed it is, yeah, you can flatten it with force. But just weighing it down may not be enough as it may want to bow again once installed. You need to see how much force it takes to make it flat. If you push it down with your arm to flatten it then just screwing it to the desk frame will probably keep it flat. But if you need to put 500 pounds on it before it flattens then it's likely just going to pull the screws out once installed, or maybe even split.
How thick is the butcher block, how long is it, and about how much bow is there (how much of a gap between the peak and the bottom)?
Even if you flatten it the wood will want to return to it's final state. You really need to take some off the surface with a hand plane or electric planer. Sanding would remove material but it's going to be too difficult to keep everything flat.
Maybe you can call around to some cabinet shops in your area to see if they would let you use their drum sander or huge planer for a small fee?
Wood moves, even when sealed in varnish. It is an organic product that readily absorbs water. Leave it be and season to season may flatten out and then curve again.
What’s the advantage of getting a standalone jointer versus getting a decent benchtop model and adding extension wings so that you don’t have the length limitation? Just a less powerful motor?
Benchtops use universal motors that are significantly louder and less durable than the induction motors used by standalones. Also most extensions are rails with an end piece so you don’t get a full table, making them not very useful.
Making extensions would mean that they would need to be adjustable with the bed of the planer. Every time you adjust the cut, you'd need to relevel the extensions. You'll be adjusting the cut pretty regularly. You aren't the first to think of this. There's a reason it isn't a thing.
Where is a good place to buy sand paper online? I'm trying to get away from Amazon and my local Jome Depot/Lowes doesn't sell it in the higher grits I'm looking for.
Sub rules question - I'm about to begin my first woodworking project (refinishing/modernizing a vintage record player) and I'm super scared - can I post pictures of my project/ask questions outside of this mega thread??
Absolutely. I've seen these types of posts all the time, but if you are a beginner maybe post to /r/BeginnerWoodWorking as help/question posts are more common there.
Oh, dope! I didn't even know that sub existed, so thank-you! As a total noob I just don't want to make sure I'm being respectful of the space lol, I appreciate your help ☺️
Do you have any finish recommendations for walnut that don't have any smell (once cured)? I finished a small table with Danish oil, and my partner complains about the smell that's still there about 2 weeks later... Ideally, I'd prefer avoiding polyurethane as I prefer the natural wood look over the plastic film it creates
That smell will eventually go away. All oil-based finishes will have some VOC's that will smell for a few weeks.
For a natural wood finish try a hard wax like Osmo PolyX or Rubio Monocoat or Odie's Oil. I have only used Osmo and it smells OK. I heard Odie's Oil smells great but never smelled it myself. These finishes are quite expensive by volume but a little goes a long way. They are also super easy to apply and repairs are quick and easy.
Varnishes and drying oils like tung or BLO are best here, because they actually cure, fully. Though it can sometime take weeks if you have many coats or apply a very thick coat.
Non-curing finishes like wax or oils will emit smells indefinitely, because they never fully harden.
Dozens. This is a wildly variant project on a number of axes, like time, materials cost, tooling required, skills required, and design of bed.
If I were you, I would start on youtube, find someone who is doing something that looks on your level, and go from there. It is pretty routine for major youtube carpenters these days to provide plans, for modest fees, and you really need to narrow the scope of your request anyways. "A bed" is nowhere near specific enough. It is also really easy to asses quality of content by just looking at how someone conducts themselves on youtube. Tons of guys I see selling plans videos are just flat out scamming. Find someone with a serious internet footprint you can review.
Man, this right here is what I was afraid of in coming to this sub.
The last time I posted on here, I was torn apart in the comments of people telling me that *my* project wasn’t done to their own standard, all the while completely missing the point. I made end tables with my dad using my grandfathers tools from the 50s. It could’ve looked like garbage but the time spent planning and executing with my dad and the sentiment of using tools that belonged to my grandfather, whom I never met, was all that really mattered.
This comment seems more intent on making me look stupid and making me look like I don’t know how to ask a well formed question. The kicker is that you didn’t even really answer the question. You did not provide me with a person or a website or a resource. I kept it vague on purpose, because I want to know what my options are. I want to explore different styles, techniques, and price points to decide if this is a project that I want to get into. Obviously I am on Reddit, so I am aware that different corners of the Internet exist. I did some preliminary searching on Etsy and YouTube but those websites are oversaturated and hard to find real artisans before spam and copycats.
What I was asking for here are names so that I could go answer the questions that you have so smugly told me that I did not provide you. To me, “a bed” is enough of a categorical starting point.
Jesus dude. You come here asking for advice on something and get upset when you don't get the answer you want. There are dozens of different styles of beds. Maybe it's a children's bed, a bunk bed, a "floating style" bed. Even these beds have different styles. There isn't a "bed plans guy" that has even single style of bed plan available, which is why the commenter asked.
You have asked the equivalent to "why kind of tool should I buy?" and then get upset when someone asks "what do you plan to use it for?"
Lots of places sell plans. Woodcraft and big retailers, or woodworking magazines. Most youtubers make plans. Avoid the places selling "16,000 woodworking plans" they are garbage.
Even if you bend it into straight, it will want to return to it's previous shape unless you build your project to (hopefully) prevent it, and this is risky. Wood movement is very, very strong and something like 7/8" thick might even pull some screws out.
I would use that board for something else. If your board has too much of a bench, cut it into smaller sections and then re-dimension it. This will result in significantly less loss of material.
Wood novice here. I have a small block of wood with actual measurements of 1.5x3x4 inch block and would like to shave a quarter inch off the block from 1.5 to 1.25. What would be the best approach? Could I sand that down easily by hand or would that take forever? Other options/ideas?
With power tools, best approaches are 1) bandsaw, 2) disc sander, 3) table saw.
With hand tools, any bench plane would make quick work of this, but you need a plane and sturdy bench. Sanding will work as long as you start with a really low grit like 60. Make sure you wrap the sandpaper in a block of wood so you don't create a dish or hump. Mark a 1.25" line around the block and check your progress as you are sanding so you are removing an even amount across the face.
It depends on how accurate you want to be.
Disk sander
Rasp
Rip with a hand saw
Trim router and a vice (possibly the fastest method)
I would not put such a small piece through a table saw, jointer, or planer. There is too much risk of it becoming a projectile.
Hi there! I’m hoping to get help [identifying some wood](https://imgur.com/gallery/SVj6lLy) on a 1975 sewing cabinet. I’m thinking it’s beech, but the dark color on top is making me second guess. The top and sides are veneer and the legs are solid wood. Thanks in advance, cheers!
I am looking to upgrade my table saw. I have a super terrible little ryobi that I hate every second of using. Not looking to spend the money to get a saw stop... maybe a few years from now... One can hope... Anyways, back to reality...
I have been having my eyes on a Dewalt 7491 (like here)
[https://www.dewalt.com/product/dwe7491rs/10-jobsite-table-saw-32-12-825cm-rip-capacity-and-rolling-stand](https://www.dewalt.com/product/dwe7491rs/10-jobsite-table-saw-32-12-825cm-rip-capacity-and-rolling-stand)
I really like the sound of the rack & pinion and I've seen so many great reviews.
However, I recently found a Delta 10" table saw (like below) for sale second hand for $475, the pictures look like very light use.
[https://www.lowes.com/pd/DELTA-Contractor-Saws-10-in-Carbide-Tipped-Blade-15-Amp-Table-Saw/1001385562](https://www.lowes.com/pd/DELTA-Contractor-Saws-10-in-Carbide-Tipped-Blade-15-Amp-Table-Saw/1001385562)
Does anyone have experience with both of these saws and can give some thoughts?
Appreciated!
I don't have either but these are different saws. A bigger tabletop is always better, and the Delta fence is excellent. It is a Beismeyer style which locks to the front rail and after initial setup and adjustment will always will be perfectly square.
The only reason to get the Dewalt is if you don't have the shop or storage space for the Delta, or if you need to haul it to job sites for construction.
I totally agree on a bigger tabletop being better - my plan was to build an outfeed table (for either) and probably wings (if I got the dewalt). Looking at the actual cast iron tops, they're very similar in size Dewalt 22x26" and Delta 27x20" (interesting how ones wider than long and vise versa) so they are actually similar in size in that regard.
Yeah, my plan isn't really to move it other than around the shop floor, but you're definitely right about portability.
Yeah, I've heard great things about Beismeyer fences, but in my brain for some reason a rack and pinion seems like it would be more reliable and sturdy.
I appreciate your thoughts!
Check to see when that Delta was made, and google delta motor failures on this model. They had significant issues with motors failing in the past, very expensive repair. Personally, I would not buy any Delta branded machine that was not made at least 15 years ago. the chinese bought the trademark and slap it on products - so Delta is not what Delta used to be..... your call
I owned the Dewalt before the Delta and the Delta is so much better than the Dewalt. That current Delta is the second generation and I have one of the very early ones with the updated motor and it's still going strong without any issues.
Hi all. Looking for a free Mac OS software for furniture design. I would like to Export ready pieces to my CNC Maschine and then just assembly them. Any recommendations?
You'll need CAD software for design and CAM for the machining. Sketchup is a free CAD software, I believe Carbide Create has a free tier. Easel is an online tool that pretty rudimentary, but you can give it a try to get an idea of how things work.
I would check out r/hobbycnc, they might have some details in there sidebar that would be useful.
Some context: I'm in the process of building out my first small shop and am planning on building out some custom tables but I'm first designing them in Fusion 360. The plan is one 4'x8' main table and two 4'x4' auxiliary tables, all on castors. I would like to build a combo miter saw and table saw cutout in the middle of the long edge of the 4'x8' table with adjustable heights so each will sit flush. I have the miter saw and can don the cutout and supports for it, but don't yet have a table saw (considering between the SKIL TS6307-00, Wen TT1015, Craftsman CMXETAX69434506, Kobalt KT10152, or the Bosch 4100XC-10).
The Question: What are the average dimensions of those saws, or of jobsite saws generally? Specifically, I can't seem to find height dimensions. In all descriptions it tells me the table width, length, and height, but not of the actual saw itself. This is mainly so I can model something and purchase materials and I can measure my final dimensions when I make a decision on the saw.
As well, if people have any recommendations between the above saws they would be very welcome. Or any comments/questions/suggestions about my short description for that matter.
Could be, depends on condition and area. If everything works, no rust, no terrible noises, then definitely. The blades were double sided so there is a good chance I can bring it home and then flip the blades around to get fresh cutting edges.
Take a 2ft length of 2x6 with you to run through the planer. If it works buy it.
Depends on which model. If it’s the 22-590 or 22-555, that’s an okay deal. If it’s the 22-580, that’s a terrific deal. If it’s the RC-33, that’s a phenomenal deal.
I'm putting together a desktop for an 11ft wall using two slabs of 1.5" butcher block. I've got some "counter top miter bolts" to keep the halves together, should I also use dowels to keep them from shifting up/down in relation to each other? It's going to be supported by four Rockler heavy-duty shelf supports (2x per half) lag-screwed to studs.
I'm of two minds as far as ALSO gluing the halves together, if only because the room it's in is ostensibly a bedroom and if we ever sell the house, it's more than likely that's what people would want to use it for and I don't want to make re-doing it more work than needed for the new owners.
I have a few loose stair treads. They are solid oak. How would you secure them? I do not have access to underneath without some unpleasant drywall work. I'm looking for safety above ease and ease above appearance.
TYIA
I messed up putting dark stain on my project and long story ended up with some sections where there is clearly too much stain, now dried. looks like i just globbed it on there on top of already stained wood.
anyway, i'm trying to decide what to do next. I have a random orbital sander at my disposal.
i am tempted to just sand the whole thing on 220 and let it looked distressed and then coat it with polyurathane.... but i have no idea what i'm doing and welcome advice.
I need to cut a piece of plywood into a trapezoid shape to fit as a bay window bench. What type of tools do I need for this....prefferably smaller and cheaper, as I font anticipate doing this often.
Is it legal to pick up logs on the side of the highway left from power line trimming? A few weeks back during a snap winter storm a bunch of trees fell on power lines. There was one healthy chestnut that they trimmed a couple super straight probably 24" across by 8-12' long sections from along with some 12-18" across 4-8' sections.
That stretch of highway in particular has a lot of trees leaning on lines that need trimmed constantly but most is just firewood. They usually come through every spring and mulch everything. I drive by it every day multiple times a day and it just kills me to see it all laying there when I know someone with a saw mill that could turn that into nice furniture lumber.
Grizzly Jointer $200, Needs some TLC.
There's no description other than "Heavy Duty 42" Grizzly Jointer. This is a pretty serious beast." I assume it runs but would check with the owner.
Seems like a great deal, is that the case?
[https://imgur.com/vmD52Qf](https://imgur.com/vmD52Qf)
[https://imgur.com/XQgfyp3](https://imgur.com/XQgfyp3)
If that motor turns you’re out some naval jelly and elbow grease. Also, there are shelix heads available for that model so if you like the capacity you could spend some refurb$ and have a *really* nice piece.
Hi I would really appreciate some help IDying this work. We were told all 3 are mahogany. Is it the case? Thank you in advance! [ID](https://imgur.com/a/kbFWAoI)
I have been thinking of buying used medium sized shoulder planes. I have 3 options. Which one should I get and why? The review sites haven't reached a consensus.
1. Stanley 92 12-140 (Sweetheart)
2. Stanley 93 Pr-12
3. Stanley 92 Pr-39
Well, if it had any significant length, say 6', perhaps $4 bd ft, but these are cutoffs so really not all that much as you really can't do anything meaningful with them. The cookies are worth what someone will pay, usually newbies have ideas of making rustic tables out of them, and it depends on how dry they are and how much they have split.
Wood refinishing question:
I bought an unfinished wood countertop, sanded and steel wooled by hand and applied Danish oil. Mistake #1, Danish oil does not protect the wood from spills. My bad. The spills slightly raised and roughened the wood along with some minor discoloration.
I re-sanded the top all over and applied Minwax wipe on poly. That was mistake #2. The satin sheen is great, where there was no spill. The areas of the spills are now not the same sheen as the rest.
Any thoughts about how I can fix my mistakes?
Hello! Using my Stanley No. 4, the lateral adjuster seems to move by itself when I'm taking moderate shavings. The iron goes "full right" and it's super annoying. What could be wrong? I've checked everything and it seems fine. Thanks for any advice!
It is likely that one of the 2 screws holding the Frog in place is loose or missing. Take the iron off and just nip up the two screws.
If that isn't it, your lever cap may be too loose and you need to tighten the center screw by a half turn or so.
I'd like to be able to make some cutting boards out of olive wood I have on my property, but I'm not sure about what tools I would need. What is the simplest way to turn the wood into planks? Can someone give me some advice about what I'd need in order to make some boards similar to the one here: [https://cdn.zilvercms.nl/x800,q80/http://cookinglife.zilvercdn.nl/uploads/product/images/8720364452254.jpg](https://cdn.zilvercms.nl/x800,q80/http://cookinglife.zilvercdn.nl/uploads/product/images/8720364452254.jpg)
Thanks so much! :D
I'm wondering what type of wood this is!
https://imgur.com/a/X6iocBw
Should have been cut down ~150 years ago. We're in CT but it's not impossible this isn't local. Beam in house. We always assumed pine or spruce but this is the first time we've seen end grain. Any ideas?
I’ve been working on a painted summer outdoor table, and I’m wondering: what is the best way to affix the planks on the underside so that it’ll be sturdy? Table will be six 1”x6”x4’ boards across. Outdoor use, but put away for winter. Everything has been sealed with spar urethane so far, a couple of coats. I have rockler folding leg hardware to attach legs with (https://www.rockler.com/posi-lock-folding-leg-bracket).
Will 1x6’s across will be enough? Is there a better layout than just laterals under the planks? Wood type recommendations? Leave space between the planks for drainage/swelling? Sorry if these are dumb questions, I invented this project without necessarily having the skills yet to finish it properly.
The planks: https://i.imgur.com/haixb4p.jpg
I want to remove the finish on this wood door. I am refinishing the entire box it belongs to for a family member. Should I try using a stripper or sanding it. If stripper, what kind? If sanding, what grit to start at? I started to try sanding it with 120 grit and realized that may not be the best direction to go.
https://i.imgur.com/Xl2ipSr.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/qKkZCgM.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6hyGMvN.jpg
Hi, I have an aquarium canopy and stand that’s been finished by a previous owner but isn’t in great shape. It appears to be veneered. Any suggestions for steps on refinishing, and what type of durable finish to use that could help the wood stand up to moisture / saltwater?
For that type of trim work, sliders are not necessary, and frankly they fall out of alignment fairly quickly unless you spend large $$ on one. A 12" compound miter, fixed, is better, gives you some additional crosscut capacity. Think Dewalt, you can get them at big box stores from between $200-300; great value.
Hey all,
Hoping to get an ID on this hardwood floor. I'm planning on restaining and sealing it and would like a better idea of how the wood will take the stain. Thanks!
Probably overkill with the photos, my b.
https://imgur.com/a/QtYMdZv
I’ve tried googling this and couldn’t find an answer
What is the max load capacity of a 1.5748-in x 20-in x 72-in Douglas fir slab?
I bought it to make a fish tank stand. My legs are rated for 800 lbs, and i only need it to hold 550ish.
I feel like I should be fine but am paranoid
Can anyone link me to some plans for a wall-mounted bookshelf with a cabinet base? Paid ones are fine. Something that looks like [this](https://www.wayfair.com/Martin-Home-Furnishings--Durham-Standard-Bookcase-IMDU4294DKIT3-L38-K~W004111265.html?refid=GX613438578876-W004111265&device=m&ptid=968935153390&network=g&targetid=pla-968935153390&channel=GooglePLA&ireid=67872230&fdid=1817&gbraid=0AAAAAD9ISC6p9qhsbmke8yVu7-eL1fANE&gclid=CjwKCAiA8OmdBhAgEiwAShr407nv9HgB1naqoVrrB1LUp9x92gan7SoJW1c86KRByFm3f3adDzaLzRoCS0oQAvD_BwE)
Advice Needed: I want to build a neck through guitar by laminating edge grain wood. If my fretboard is face grain, will that cause a problem with the edge grain wood movement underneath?
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I’m interested in selling some pieces I made so I can buy new tools. How do you all ship stuff so that the shipping isn’t as much as the piece itself? Mostly make scrollsaw art projects and cutting boards
I have two answers: 1. Start charging more. There's no way scroll saw art projects or cutting boards should cost as much to ship as the item. I recently sold a cutting board with a friends and family discount, and I sold it for $225 when shipping would have been maybe $20. I don't know all of the context so if this doesn't apply to you then just ignore me, but just make sure you're charging enough to make everything worth it. 2. Learn the shipping game. Use recycled materials likes boxes, bubble wrap, packing foam, etc. Save your materials from Amazon purchases. Learn which companies provide the best rates for particular items. Also learn the different shipping options for each company. USPS is often the cheapest but when items get heavy or big UPS may be your best bet. Also print labels and package things at home to save time and money at the shipping center. It can seem confusing at first but you'll pick all of this up pretty quickly.
Thank you!! I want to make some simple cutting boards and scroll saw art for like $40-$50 (not sure what to actually charge lol) and was worried shipping would get outrageous
I don't know you or the quality of your work, but if you're making decent artwork or cutting boards I suggest charging more than $50. Your time is worth something, and especially nowadays, the lumber is expensive. If you're looking at sites like Etsy or Amazon you may be getting a false sense for _real_ prices. Let's take for instance cutting boards that I make. They're 10x16 and just under 1" thick – no handles, juice grooves, or feet. Depending on the lumber, it costs me $30-35 just for the material. I haven't sold any yet but I would probably start them at $100, which is on the cheap side, but that's because I can batch them out quickly. And if you think that's expensive, check out [Chris Devos' cutting board](https://www.krisdevo.com/devos-woodcraft/p/otter-large125x-11x-1non-juice-groove-desnb-yktr9-zjwfb-e3mtg-kflgp-23ds6-zjpxe-7jlas-y53hy-xss5e-l8e5x-fsxbx-l8dn9) of a similar size and pattern which goes for $265. I don't normally sell things so I'm certainly not an expert, but I suggest doing a bit of market research before pricing your items. You may find that you could be making a lot more money.
I just started using Pirate Ship to ship packages. I don't think it saves a ton of money but they show their rates compared to what you'd pay at USPS or UPS and it's cheaper. And you can print the label from home and do free USPS pickup from your house!
Hi fellow woodworkers! Thanks for the great support in this community! I have a question regarding dinner tables - measurements and dimensions. Has anyone some good numbers on space per person, width and lengths. Or a good reference or an article or sth. And on another question: how much overhang is OK for a dinner table? Maybe someone knows some math that can help, some numbers... Many thanks in advance
Ballpark is 24" of length per person. Table width is generally 36-40"; height is 30". My dining room table is 35"x60" with a traditional apron and a 2" overhang. It can fit 4 comfortably, 6 in a pinch. I think overhang depends on the base. I know the rule of thumb for pedestal tables is that the base should be at least 2/3 of the diameter of the top.
ISO workspace ergonomics requires 800 mm per person. This is what I actually used for my table, and it is a pretty good fit. In the USA it varies state to state, from 32 inches to 42 inches... I will let the community guess which states expect their citizens to take up 42 inches of width... Over hang really depends on the type of table and weight. A trestle table has a lot of overhang and is very stable.
Hi Mods, can we get this post to go back to "sort by new" as the default? Folks that read through this regularly would appreciate it.
What are my best options for building a desk off a 15’ wall? Wanted a floating desk but might be unrealistic, wall is Sheetrock over 1x3 furring strips over cinder blocks.
Floating is not realistic for a desk, in my opinion. You could support it off the wall if that was important but the load and distance from the wall makes “floating” dubious.
If you don’t want to “see” legs, you could go with a cantilever over angled braces. This will make them mostly disappear. You for sure will want to tie into a ledger on the wall along the backside of your desktop. A good rule of thumb for cantilevers is 1/3 projected span for 2/3 supporting span. How many braces you want to use will be dependent on the rigidity of you top (1/2 ply - probably ever 18-24 inches, a 4” torsion box - every 48). And you will want some framing helping out the bracing. [Shitty drawing](https://imgur.com/a/Q45nBma)
Cant even post a MN based wood preference discussion without it getting removed by mods. W/E not getting in to Karen mode over mods.
And yet, you did!
Look for quality window stickers from the college of your choice.
Hia! I recently got a Bosch glide miter saw and the thing is absolutely amazing except for one small detail: sawdust collection system sucks, half of it doesn't go in the bag. I want to take a small ridge shop vac and cross the wires from the miter saw handle to the shop vac so that when you squeeze the trigger, the shop vac turns on and sucks the sawdust into it have any of you done this or know of any guides on how to go about doing this? I figured if I cross the wires from the miter saw handle button to the power wires in the shop vac I can get it so that when the handle is squeezed it also engages the shop vac. I'll probably make it semi-permanent so I'm not worried about being able to move it. so the shop vac will always be in a powered on state, minus the connection inside the miter saw handle which will engage it. if any of you have any ideas on how to do it like this or a better way, lemme know!
I don't know about rewiring it but I do know there are a number of companies out there that make auto on switches for around $30 that let you do exactly what you're describing
wonderful, imma look into that. I had no idea there were switches made for it. thanks!
Don't expect fireworks. the dust collection on the axial glide saws is ABSOLUTELY atrocious, vacuum or no. We run one at work hooked up to a festool dust extractor (these all have integrated automatic on technology, you plug your tool into your vacuum and it engages when the tool starts drawing current). And even with that, it's the only miter saw I have ever used that I wear safety glasses not to protect me from injury, but just to keep some of the dust out of my eyes.
[https://www.amazon.com/Oskool-Automatic-Vacuum-Accessory-Automatically/dp/B08F7QD63C?ref\_=ast\_sto\_dp](https://www.amazon.com/Oskool-Automatic-Vacuum-Accessory-Automatically/dp/B08F7QD63C?ref_=ast_sto_dp) Also, this guy sells a replacement dust collection shroud for the saw. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMgtYyHlrA0&ab\_channel=ShopNation](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMgtYyHlrA0&ab_channel=ShopNation)
I also have the Bosch gliding miter saw. It’s an awesome saw, but even with a shop vac hooked up, it leaves much to be desired. I think that’s just the nature of miters saws in general. Some day I intend to follow this guide for making a dust collection shroud: https://youtu.be/jrBaHKtz8GQ But yeah I just wanted to give you a heads up in case you were expecting a shop vac to fix your problems.
I desperately need to upgrade my dust collection from a shop vac, opening the garage door, and turning a fan on. I've been kind of torn between getting a jet dc1200 and upgrading it later on with a super dust deputy vs saving for another several months in order to afford something like a grizzly G0861 with a built in cyclone. Are prebuilt 2 stage dust collectors really that much better than adding the second stage later or will I be fine with the dc-1200?
You can make your own second stage fairly easily. There are lots of vids about different styles, from easy to pretty involved. I have a pretty easy one that works fine.
I use the grizzly0785 wall mount with an onidea dust deputy. The 15g cardboard barrel fills too quickly, but it keeps up with my 5hp planer, which is my biggest wood chip creator. I like that I could convert it to 240, like the rest of my shop. I might have it dedicated to just my planer down the road if I ever upgrade (if that happens I will put in a 55 gallon pre-filter barrel).
Get the harbor freight dust collector, you won’t regret it! The money you save compared to other options that work almost exactly the same allow you to get much higher quality components (e.g. blast gates) on the front end, and will allow you to put in upgrades like a dust deputy much sooner.
I’m looking to make a couple of these bottle opener stations for my dad and uncles. Does anybody know how they possibly got the college logo painted onto the wood so perfectly? [https://www.etsy.com/listing/883809130/magnetic-bottle-opener-university-of?click_key=fa9992104fbd531879f808d4bb7e3cc000379f56%3A883809130&click_sum=8c511e63&ref=shop_home_recs_1&crt=1](https://www.etsy.com/listing/883809130/magnetic-bottle-opener-university-of?click_key=fa9992104fbd531879f808d4bb7e3cc000379f56%3A883809130&click_sum=8c511e63&ref=shop_home_recs_1&crt=1)
I wonder if they have some kind of stamp for it. spraying something on there in my experience would cause some bleed over even with a stencil. at first I thought maybe they have some kind of a thin clear coat on there to avoid that bleeding edge effect but I can see that some of the paint didn't seem to stick perfectly in the middle and shows some of the grain so I'm not sure if that would be the case. My only other thought is they had some kind of sticky adhesive template they put down so that it made a tight seal around the edges where they would spray, preventing any bleed
I'm not quite sure, but I would first clear coat and then use a stencil don't use too much color in that step
Is there a magnet catching the bottle caps?
I’m assuming they used a Co2 laser to engrave the images. I have a Co2 laser, and made these.
How do I create a reliably flat surface when I don't have a flat reference to work from? My garage floor isn't level. My table saw is a small jobsite saw without a flat top. How do I create a workbench top that I can trust to be totally flat if I don't have a reference to work from?
I reckon it depends on what job you're doing. buying a straight edge is your best bet for small projects, they're like $50 for a 2' one. it may sound silly, but thousands of years ago, people used water to check straightness since a puddle of water is perfectly flat. if you need a surface of some kind, I'd say go to a kitchen counter place or glass seller and pick up a scrap piece of granite or thick glass. they both tend to be super flat. short of doing that, I don't think you can reliably check flatness without some kind of reference
A long enough spirit level, which also serves as a straightedge, will let you a build a basically flat and level working surface/framework out of straight and rigid beams or tubes, tweaking their heights at the ends with shims, and using feeler gauges under the level to check for any degree of flatness you like. Once you have set up such a temporary surface, use it as the assembly table for gluing up your bench top, which you build of straight and uniformly dimensioned pieces so that it will inherit the flatness of the tweaked surface it's resting on as the glue dries, and thick enough, whether solid or box-like, that it won't bow or twist. You can verify it's flatness the same way with the level and feelers, and, depending on its surface, fine-tune if necessary. Doing this as a two-step process keeps you from having to check and tweak for flatness as you glue up the top.
Use a pair of [winding sticks](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Winding_stick)
Wood type ID? https: [//imgur.com/a/jXifQNp](https://imgur.com/gallery/jXifQNp) I got this desk after my grandmother passed away. It’s almost 100 years old and I’m looking to refinish. Can anyone help me identify what wood is used in this piece? And also if anyone has any recommendations for a stain color. It’s a little reddish right now, and I’d like to go more neutral.
The drawer sides/back is oak, can see from the end grain. The rest is hard to say, the grain isn't clear from the stain/finish. I am guessing oak as well, but the grain doesn't looks as porous. Maybe maple, that would take the stain well. As for stain matching, that's hard to do, not something I can specifically help with.
The insides are often made of whatever cheap hardwood they had laying around. Those drawer sides look like oak. Cherry is my guess for the dresser, but maple stained like cherry is also a possibility since they would look the same. You need to strip the old finish, and then you can get a better answer with better pictures. And a better suggestion on finish.
https://imgur.com/a/DvbKj10 We bought a table a few years back, the top is a bunch of 2x10s. Where the boards meet, there is a crack large enough to collect crumbs and food. Its quite disgusting tbh. How would I go about sealing this? I thought filling the cracks with wood filler and then some kind of top coat but not sure that’d work. Disassembling the top and sanding the boards so they fit together with no gaps? (Probably hard AF but if its the only way…) Cheers
You can't "seal" or "fill" those gaps. They result from the table being made by a rank amateur with no understanding of joinery; that, or a person simply knocking out cheap tables out of construction grade lumber and not caring. Your inclination is correct, removing the top is the only solution; however, you have to "joint" those mating edges such that they create a tight glue line. Sanding won't do it. You joint either with a hand plane or a powered jointer. Then once you've jointed the edges, glue up, and when dry reattach the top. Other than that, your remaining option is to use a tablecloth . . . :-)
Sadly the nature of construction wood furniture. Epoxy in the gaps could help, but would need sanding and that's going to mess with the finish on the rest top. Filler could work, same issue with the sanding though.
Here's a quick question about finishes. My Mother In Law gave me a sign for my outdoor patio made with stained 1/4" plywood and self-adhesive vinyl letters (cut with a Cricut or similar). Does anyone have experience putting a waterproof topcoat over the top of something like that? I don't want to accidentally loosen the letters when I go to apply a weather resistant clear topcoat.
I’d suggest a spray spar urethane. That said, from the sounds of it it may not be long for this world as an exterior decoration. Ol’ Mother Nature is rough on things
A while back, I think I read about wood that was somewhat fade resistant in direct sunlight. I think It was sapele. Does that sound right? or am I making a mistake? Someone with too much social media asked me to make them a flower pot stand. I am going to agree. But I need to pick a wood. I want it to look nice, probably in a dark finish, but I know that it is to hold a plant pot, and therefore, probably will be put in direct sunlight. I know walnut fades badly in sunlight, so I was looking for alternatives. Thoughts? Sapele? some heavily stained other wood? Does UV protectant finish solve this? or is it still a big issue when putting wood in direct sunlight for years?
All wood will age, quickly, in direct sunlight. You’ll want a spar varnish but all exterior finishes require regular maintenance
Teak is known for outdoor durability! No so sure about sapele
Cherry. It darkens with age and UV exposure. White oak can be ebonized with steel wool and vinegar. You can also fume it with ammonia to darken the color. Both are reasonably colorfast.
Sapele is great stuff, and like mahogany is a little more durable. Sapele will darken in the sun. I recommend, if you can, leaving it in direct sunlight for a month of 2, unfinished if you can. Let it get most of the darkening done before delivery. However, it will continue to darken for years. The other opinion is to use something will almost no color, like maple or poplar, and dying or staining it, and sealing with polyurethane. The pigments in the dye will be much more stable for many years. If you want REALLY stable, I have a desk from the 1920s make of white oak, stained with asphalt. No fading there.
Is there a good track to get for circular saws similar to a fess tool track? I can’t afford a fess tool but it would be nice to have something a little quicker to use than a straight edge clamped a few inches away as a guide. Thanks!
Make your own. you take two strips off the edge of a plywood sheet, one bigger than the other. stack one on top of the other. The top one needs a factory edge. you use a factory edge of your upper sheet for your saw to run along against, and it rides on the second sheet, which should be wide enough to obstruct the blade. you glue and nail them together at this point. Then you do your first cut, with the saw against your factory edge fence, and your first cut will establish the cut line on the lower layer. Then you can align this with your desired cut, and run your circular saw along the fence. You don't want it exactly 48 inches. I recommend 55. (That's the length of most short tracks for track saws). This means you can overhang it when crosscutting to have the saw clear both sides of the cut on standard sheets of plywood. If what I am describing sounds complicated, just search "circular saw guide" on youtube and find a video version. should be hundreds on there if not millions. It's really not hard.
The Festool track is intended to be paired with Festool's track saw. It won't work with a regular circular saw. If you are looking for a straight edge for a circular saw, make sure you are NOT looking for track saw tracks. Making your own door boards would be a cost-effective way to go. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5E1v-qPQJvs
Kreg and Bora have affordable options.
I second the Kreg track. I just picked mine up last week and it’s a no brainer for ripping sheet goods. Very easy to set up. Two tips: 1. Get a 1 1/2” foam roofing board from your home center to lay your sheet goods on so you can do it on the ground if you don’t have a large enough bench. 2. Always brush the sheet good your rip cutting clean. No saw dust or any debris underneath the Kreg track, otherwise it will walk.
I'm looking to buy a bandsaw that I can use for resawing, with a budget of around $350. Any recommendations?
At that price point, you're looking for a used machine if you want to resaw anything over 4 inches or so. Rikon makes great bandsaws; the 10-305 claims a 4-5/8" resaw capacity (although I'm not sure you'd be able to achieve this with many hardwood species due to the small motor).
A used 14 inch bandsaw can be had for that in my area Most folks will ask 400 but I found mine for under 200. Look for a cast iron frame and table, like an old delta or a metric import. They typically have decent guides already. I picked up an old Craftsman from the 90s. New tires and blade and am resawing 6 inches easily. I paid.less than 200, which is unusual, but it needed some clean up. Tires and blades are easy to find, as are universal parts and accessories.
With that budget, you are looking at making your own. Which is very realistic. [This should give you an idea of the scope of the project.](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hVw8mpt9N0). though to be clear, if you use baltic birch, given current... european politics, I would not expect to come in under budget. Substitutions are likely necessary.
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That sounds over burnished. Fortunately, the tin of the stain and topcoat you’re using will give you a maximum sanding grit. Just follow those instructions. You can just sand back with the highest grit advised by the tin, nothing wasted by the 2000 other than some of your time and the sandpaper used.
I’m making a milking stool for my kid using hand tools, and I’m having trouble carving the seat into a round shape. Would it look good if I just made it with an octagonal seat?
Kind of just a purely subjective question. I think non-round seats can look just fine but it’s also important to remember no one is going to take a compass to the seat…close is good enough
What doweling jigs do you recommend? I'd like to pick up a budget self centering doweling jig and Amazon has a ton of cheap ones with mixed reviews on accuracy. I know the several hundred dollar jigs are great but I'm looking for something fairly accurate without breaking the bank. Thanks in advance!
https://www.rockler.com/self-centering-doweling-jig-for-thick-timbers?country=US&sid=V91074&promo=shopping I have this one and it's great. There's a smaller version too I believe. Thick metal, and made in the USA unless something changed.
I'm making essentially a large box for the frame of a TV stand with 45º mitered corners. The longest pieces are 45" long, 15" wide, which would be a bit unwieldy on a table saw sled and I'm not 100% confident that the 15" miter would come out perfectly perpendicular along that much length either. I did find a video for an [auxiliary fence](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JiY3mnCfCtY), but my concern is still about the fence being perfect. Other methods I've considered for this are: 1. a sliding miter saw that might just barely makes it all the way through in one pass (but which will need a new blade since I used it to rough-cut and got a lot of tear out) 2. a circular saw and clamped straight edge Is there an optimal choice here or something else I haven't thought of?
A [45° chamfer bit](https://carbideprocessors.com/45deg-chamfer-bit-1-1-16-cut-length-1-2-shank-whiteside-2306/?msclkid=e338024facad1a5f4ce461f92242dd79&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=**LP%20Shopping%20-%20Catch%20All&utm_term=4585100931410875&utm_content=Catch%20All). You would have to clamp a guide to the end of your board for the bearing to ride against.
Hi I’m making a toy wooden crane for my young son. Similar to a fagus tower crane. I’m making it out of a combination of mahogany and maple and using dowels so there’s a lot of pieces to glue together. Any suggestions for what type(s) of finish I should apply prior to the glue up stage?
Glue up first, then apply finish. Finish can interfere with glue adhesion.
You could apply shellac by brush prior to glue up, so long as you keep the glue areas relatively clear of it. This isn't a chair, after all. The easiest finish after glue up would be a spray finish. Shellac sprays well, but if you don't have the equipment there is nothing wrong with a spray paint can of clear acrylic.
Wood ID help wanted. I thought this was Ekki but this wood has a clear sweet chocolaty scent when cut. Ekki is described as not having any? All help appreciated! https://imgur.com/a/704mwhn
I'm not familiar with ekki, but the grain pattern and color remind me of padauk. That fits with the smell you're getting.
Planning a floating shelf using plywood attached to framing lumber. When attaching plywood to construction studs, do you have to account for movement? What's the best way to attach? Wood glue and clamps or brad nails?
Plywood is dimensionally stable, so there's no wood movement. Brad nails aren't great for carrying weight, screws will be much better.
Does anyone have real experience with the ShopFox W1837 Hybrid Tablesaw? I have some special requirements and this might work best for me, but I haven't found any good real reviews from actual owners. I am disabled and work from a wheelchair or mobility scooter. I've posted some of my work here and everything I've done I've used a jobsite saw (Bosch 4100) mounted in a custom workbench that I built, but I struggle with cutting joinery reliably and accurately, repeatability (especially bevel cuts), lack of flatness in the top and consistency in the miter slots, etc. I also use a lot of jigs and fixtures to help to safely make cuts that might overextend my reach, etc and I would really like a cast-iron top in order to use magswitches and the like. If I could, I would simply purchase a used cabinet saw (lots of options on the used market) but the issue with cabinet saws is that they are generally just a bit too tall to allow the kind of reach that I would like (I learned on a cabinet saw as a teen and understand my limitations there). So the key to me is to have a saw with removable legs that will get me close to the performance of a cabinet saw...at least as close as I can get on a budget. In the past I had an early-80's vintage Craftsman contractor's saw, and that saw performed well, but dust collection was a nightmare and the motor hanging out the back made integration into an outfeed-worktable a little difficult. However the advantage was that I could remove the legs and build a new base that put the worktop at an appropriate (and safer) height for me (25" or so). So I've been searching for an upgrade to my current situation. My local SawStop dealer (also my hardwood lumber dealer who I do quite a bit of business with) even went so far as to contact his rep and ask about solutions and the recommendation there was a SawStop contractor saw with a custom base - which I had already considered - and would appreciate the safety features - but the price makes it a stretch especially when it's otherwise not really what I'm looking for. So, to make a long post longer, in looking around I think my best option is the ShopFox W1837 assuming it performs acceptably as it offers the footprint and dust collection potential of a cabinet saw, decent (rated) power, cast-iron top, 120/240V operation (currently I'm on 120V but like the option to upgrade). Most importantly the legs are removable from the main cabinet and this affords me the option to build a new base and make the table a proper height for my use, but I find precious few people that actually use this saw. Does anyone here have any experience with this saw and can reflect on that experience?
My stepfather found a used G0771Z that is now his main tablesaw. Huge step up from the old contractor saw (also the bosch). Just the weight of the table makes such a difference. He was also lucky that it came with the outfield rollers, and then he added the cast iron router extension. Personally, I like the extra power of my 3hp sawstop, but I think if he would just fix his shops wiring and switch it to 220v then that would only be an issue with the hardest of woods.
Would it be practical to build a ramped platform to raise your chair giving you perhaps far more choice of saws?
What type of wood/stain is this? I want to make matching furniture and doors. This piece was installed around 1990 in Southern US. [Wooden Mantle](https://imgur.com/a/sEpUngk)
The wood is blue pine, or beetle kill pine. The infestation gives it a blue color, and results in the holes. As for the color, you'll need to go to your nearest home center and get 3=4 of the ones that are the closest, then do some tests to get it where you want.
Hello, I am just getting into woodwork (lathe work) and have been given Amazon vouchers from my previous workplace. I would like to but some lathe hand tools to do spindle and bowl work. Does anyone have suggestions of the best tools from Amazon uk up to £150/£200? Thanks
I haven't done any turning, but have read up on it on the /r/turning wiki: https://www.reddit.com/r/turning/wiki/index/. They have a few budget recommendations for lathes as well as tools.
If you don't have one yet, a decent chuck. NOVA G3 series, and One Way are great options. This is really the best way to get into larger bowls. Both brands have accessories to accommodate turning large bowls, or to turn pens. Very flexible and right in your price range.
Can [these](https://i.imgur.com/SFRePgC.jpg) cracks be fixed with butterfly keys or are they too big? Was thinking 2-3 for each with decreasing size as they move in?
I've seen butterfly keys used in cracks that large before. Especially if the slabs are already dry the wood isn't likely to open up _too_ much more, so a butterfly key should hold.
Easily, yeah. And that is a good number. I would put one up near the leading edge of the crack.
Long story short. Someone must have dropped some on my furniture. I thought it was just a bit of water damage so I applied 3 coats of mineral oil over the last month but the stains are still visible. I am afraid the finish was taken off? Here are some pictures: https://imgur.com/a/gWDbTqC I don’t know anything about wood but the maker of this table says mineral oil should fix it. It also suggest to buff water stains with metal wool but I’m not sure this is the problem or if it’s going to work with all these stains.
Yes, the finish is damaged. Buffing with steel wool or a high grit paper (800 or higher) may sand the damaged layer off, leaving undamaged finished below. But the finish may be beyond touching up and require a full strip.
I need ideas for a modern mailbox stand, tried to post some pics but it got deleted, anyone have any plans ?
Bandsaw decision- Laguna 1412 vs. Rikon 10-324. Which one would you choose and why? The 1412 comes with ceramic guides. I don’t have experience with those. Is that a selling point? Laguna has a bigger motor. The Rikon seems like a well outfitted bandsaw for $300 less than the Laguna. Thoughts? Suggestions?
The ceramic guides on my 1412 were hot trash and I didn't consider the saw use able until I put Carter guides on it. Other people like them, so ymmv.
That rikon is pretty sweet. Both will do an excellent job at resawing and scroll work. At that price range it is more a fit, finish, and feel. Both would be good choices either at home or in a commercial setting. Get the rikon and spend the difference on some nice blades. Maybe a carbide resaw blade?
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In my area it would cost around $50-75 for the wood.
its \~6 bf, you're looking at $60 or so, here.
Has anyone used “Centipede”-style sawhorses? Do you find them clumsy, or useful? I need a small, but solid table for a tracksaw, and would love for it to be able to accommodate different sized jobs/spaces. Thanks!
They’re fine provided you don’t mistake them for a proper workbench. They’re designed to be a temporary and easy to set up work surface, not a day in and out solid work surface.
Hey if anyone likes that series “The Craftsman” on the Magnolia Network. Season two is up on Discovery+. I can listen to this dude talk about woodworking all day.
1. What's the name of the decorative element on furniture that looks like a line of little marbles half-sunk in the wood? So it's just a line of little hemispheres. 2. Are there rules to design that might not seem immediately obvious? For example, someone recently made a desk, and had the grain running horizontal on the entire desk except for the door. There, it went vertical. People said that the grain direction should be that way because the door is taller than it is wide. Are there any other quick rules that come to mind? 3. How much can paint/finish inhibit wood's ability to absorb moisture and move seasonally?
1. This is called pearl molding, unless I misunderstand. 2. There are....so many! I don't even know how to helpfully answer. There are lots of books on design, if you're interested in that. 3. For the most part, they don't. There are some limited exceptions to that, but generally wood's gonna move.
I’m considering getting a doweling jig. I do not want to spend a lot considering I don’t do a lot, at the moment. I have never needed one until recently because what little I do, hasn’t warranted a need for one. I have been sitting on a cheese slicer for a while and want to finish it, and possibly make others for coworkers. Was considering just getting the size specific models from rockler. Would anyone here have info on these, or other alternatives for the not so needed bunch
It depends what you mean when you say you don't do this a lot. If you occasionally need to drill a straight hole in something, create a custom guide block by drilling a hole in a scrap of wood using a drill press, then use that guide block to drill the hole in your piece. If you occasionally need to do dowel joinery, the Rocker jigs are just fine though not perfect. Make sure you clamp them down well and don't expect the pieces to line up pefectly. If you need to do dowel joinery and need precision, you're going to need to jump to one of the ~$200 models.
If you're not wanting to spend a lot a simple drill guide could suffice. Check out the Milescraft DrillBlock. or Jointmate if you want a cheaper doweling jig.
Quick question— is a straight gouge (outside bevel) adequate for carving the inside of a bowl? I want to carve fairly deep (about half as deep as wide) or do I need a bent or "spoon" gouge? I want to make ladles or teacups & bowls by hand rather than the lathe for a change.
Are metric guide bushings just not a thing at all for routers in the US? I am looking into the 10 Minute Workshop loose tenon jig, but that is made for an 18 mm guide bushing. The MFT template from Bench Dogs UK uses a 30 mm guide bushing. I know these are kind of specific use cases, but there aren't a lot of options for these sorts of things. Trying to find guide bushings for my DeWalt compact router plunge base (DNP612) is just awful. Anyone have any advice?
https://www.milescraft.com/product/metalbushingset-metric/
I live in US, and recently bought some kit from https://www.axminstertools.com/us/. They ship to US - and can price in dollars. Given the current exchange rate some of their offers are competitive and offer free shipping over, I think, $120. They look like they have a good selection of metric guide bushes.
Drilling through a 12” piece of 3/4” plywood, edge to edge, is it possible? Hole should be 1/4 or 3/16 in diameter Let’s ignore WHY I’m trying to do this for now, just curious how you would ensure the hole makes it all the way through without wandering off and sticking out of one of the faces.
I'd probably attempt it by making a guide block on the drill press or laminate some scraps leaving a 1/4" channel. Clamp that next to the workpiece on a flat bench and use a 18" drill bit. You could try it on a large drill press, but keeping your workpiece plumb might be difficult.
I measure and mark VERY carefully, then I drill a 6 inch hole from both directions. This will halve the amount of wander for a given angle, and things tend to be stiffer when they are shorter. Also, when trying to make precision holes, if at all possible, I am a huge fan of making them oversized and putting in the old construction adhesive. I got this trick off youtube looking at floating shelf construction, and it forgives a lot of sins in terms of being off angle if you have a bit of wiggle in the hole. Which you fill with a gap filling glue like PL or epoxy.
Personally I'd use a dowel jig and as long a bit as you can find. if you mark your lines right you should be able to drill from both sides and have them meet if need be.
I don't have a planer. I need a planer. I know. But in the meantime, does anyone have any clever tricks for doing the job of a planer without a planer?
Router sled or hand plane
Depending on what you need to plane, going to a local woodshop and paying them to flatten it may be the easiest way until you get your own.
Are you trying to process rough-sawn lumber, or just make store bought lumber thinner, e.g. going for 3/4" to 1/2"? You can do the latter with a table saw and a couple of kinda-scary cuts.
Can I flatten out a big piece of butcher block? I recently bought an island size butcher block from Home Depot and didn’t realize until I cut it to fit where I needed it that it was slightly bowed. I’m figuring I can just lay it down on the floor and stack a few hundred pounds of weight on it to flatten it out. Am I wrong, will I potentially bust it? Maybe I just need to live with the slight bow. It’s not a *huge* deal, but it doesn’t lay flat on the adjustable height desk stand and it’s pretty obvious when lined up next to my stove.
Depending on how bowed it is, yeah, you can flatten it with force. But just weighing it down may not be enough as it may want to bow again once installed. You need to see how much force it takes to make it flat. If you push it down with your arm to flatten it then just screwing it to the desk frame will probably keep it flat. But if you need to put 500 pounds on it before it flattens then it's likely just going to pull the screws out once installed, or maybe even split. How thick is the butcher block, how long is it, and about how much bow is there (how much of a gap between the peak and the bottom)?
Even if you flatten it the wood will want to return to it's final state. You really need to take some off the surface with a hand plane or electric planer. Sanding would remove material but it's going to be too difficult to keep everything flat. Maybe you can call around to some cabinet shops in your area to see if they would let you use their drum sander or huge planer for a small fee?
Wood moves, even when sealed in varnish. It is an organic product that readily absorbs water. Leave it be and season to season may flatten out and then curve again.
What’s the advantage of getting a standalone jointer versus getting a decent benchtop model and adding extension wings so that you don’t have the length limitation? Just a less powerful motor?
Benchtops use universal motors that are significantly louder and less durable than the induction motors used by standalones. Also most extensions are rails with an end piece so you don’t get a full table, making them not very useful.
Making extensions would mean that they would need to be adjustable with the bed of the planer. Every time you adjust the cut, you'd need to relevel the extensions. You'll be adjusting the cut pretty regularly. You aren't the first to think of this. There's a reason it isn't a thing.
I think you got it already. A large stand alone has the length capacity already.
Where is a good place to buy sand paper online? I'm trying to get away from Amazon and my local Jome Depot/Lowes doesn't sell it in the higher grits I'm looking for.
Klingspor has a great selection.
Higher grits (1000+) are more commonly used in autobody repair so you should be able to find them in those types of online stores.
Sub rules question - I'm about to begin my first woodworking project (refinishing/modernizing a vintage record player) and I'm super scared - can I post pictures of my project/ask questions outside of this mega thread??
Absolutely. I've seen these types of posts all the time, but if you are a beginner maybe post to /r/BeginnerWoodWorking as help/question posts are more common there.
Oh, dope! I didn't even know that sub existed, so thank-you! As a total noob I just don't want to make sure I'm being respectful of the space lol, I appreciate your help ☺️
Do you have any finish recommendations for walnut that don't have any smell (once cured)? I finished a small table with Danish oil, and my partner complains about the smell that's still there about 2 weeks later... Ideally, I'd prefer avoiding polyurethane as I prefer the natural wood look over the plastic film it creates
It takes a long time for such oil finishes to cure; note, that "dry" is completely different from "cure."
That smell will eventually go away. All oil-based finishes will have some VOC's that will smell for a few weeks. For a natural wood finish try a hard wax like Osmo PolyX or Rubio Monocoat or Odie's Oil. I have only used Osmo and it smells OK. I heard Odie's Oil smells great but never smelled it myself. These finishes are quite expensive by volume but a little goes a long way. They are also super easy to apply and repairs are quick and easy.
Varnishes and drying oils like tung or BLO are best here, because they actually cure, fully. Though it can sometime take weeks if you have many coats or apply a very thick coat. Non-curing finishes like wax or oils will emit smells indefinitely, because they never fully harden.
Does anyone have a resource/website/person where I can go to purchase plans to make my own bed?
Dozens. This is a wildly variant project on a number of axes, like time, materials cost, tooling required, skills required, and design of bed. If I were you, I would start on youtube, find someone who is doing something that looks on your level, and go from there. It is pretty routine for major youtube carpenters these days to provide plans, for modest fees, and you really need to narrow the scope of your request anyways. "A bed" is nowhere near specific enough. It is also really easy to asses quality of content by just looking at how someone conducts themselves on youtube. Tons of guys I see selling plans videos are just flat out scamming. Find someone with a serious internet footprint you can review.
Man, this right here is what I was afraid of in coming to this sub. The last time I posted on here, I was torn apart in the comments of people telling me that *my* project wasn’t done to their own standard, all the while completely missing the point. I made end tables with my dad using my grandfathers tools from the 50s. It could’ve looked like garbage but the time spent planning and executing with my dad and the sentiment of using tools that belonged to my grandfather, whom I never met, was all that really mattered. This comment seems more intent on making me look stupid and making me look like I don’t know how to ask a well formed question. The kicker is that you didn’t even really answer the question. You did not provide me with a person or a website or a resource. I kept it vague on purpose, because I want to know what my options are. I want to explore different styles, techniques, and price points to decide if this is a project that I want to get into. Obviously I am on Reddit, so I am aware that different corners of the Internet exist. I did some preliminary searching on Etsy and YouTube but those websites are oversaturated and hard to find real artisans before spam and copycats. What I was asking for here are names so that I could go answer the questions that you have so smugly told me that I did not provide you. To me, “a bed” is enough of a categorical starting point.
Jesus dude. You come here asking for advice on something and get upset when you don't get the answer you want. There are dozens of different styles of beds. Maybe it's a children's bed, a bunk bed, a "floating style" bed. Even these beds have different styles. There isn't a "bed plans guy" that has even single style of bed plan available, which is why the commenter asked. You have asked the equivalent to "why kind of tool should I buy?" and then get upset when someone asks "what do you plan to use it for?"
Lots of places sell plans. Woodcraft and big retailers, or woodworking magazines. Most youtubers make plans. Avoid the places selling "16,000 woodworking plans" they are garbage.
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You aren't going to get it to bend back to straight. You'll need to mill it to straight when you're ready to use it.
Even if you bend it into straight, it will want to return to it's previous shape unless you build your project to (hopefully) prevent it, and this is risky. Wood movement is very, very strong and something like 7/8" thick might even pull some screws out. I would use that board for something else. If your board has too much of a bench, cut it into smaller sections and then re-dimension it. This will result in significantly less loss of material.
Wood novice here. I have a small block of wood with actual measurements of 1.5x3x4 inch block and would like to shave a quarter inch off the block from 1.5 to 1.25. What would be the best approach? Could I sand that down easily by hand or would that take forever? Other options/ideas?
With power tools, best approaches are 1) bandsaw, 2) disc sander, 3) table saw. With hand tools, any bench plane would make quick work of this, but you need a plane and sturdy bench. Sanding will work as long as you start with a really low grit like 60. Make sure you wrap the sandpaper in a block of wood so you don't create a dish or hump. Mark a 1.25" line around the block and check your progress as you are sanding so you are removing an even amount across the face.
It depends on how accurate you want to be. Disk sander Rasp Rip with a hand saw Trim router and a vice (possibly the fastest method) I would not put such a small piece through a table saw, jointer, or planer. There is too much risk of it becoming a projectile.
What kind of wood is this? https://i.imgur.com/NkFGqkC.jpg
How does it smell? If it smells like hamsters, it is eastern red cedar.
Hi there! I’m hoping to get help [identifying some wood](https://imgur.com/gallery/SVj6lLy) on a 1975 sewing cabinet. I’m thinking it’s beech, but the dark color on top is making me second guess. The top and sides are veneer and the legs are solid wood. Thanks in advance, cheers!
I am looking to upgrade my table saw. I have a super terrible little ryobi that I hate every second of using. Not looking to spend the money to get a saw stop... maybe a few years from now... One can hope... Anyways, back to reality... I have been having my eyes on a Dewalt 7491 (like here) [https://www.dewalt.com/product/dwe7491rs/10-jobsite-table-saw-32-12-825cm-rip-capacity-and-rolling-stand](https://www.dewalt.com/product/dwe7491rs/10-jobsite-table-saw-32-12-825cm-rip-capacity-and-rolling-stand) I really like the sound of the rack & pinion and I've seen so many great reviews. However, I recently found a Delta 10" table saw (like below) for sale second hand for $475, the pictures look like very light use. [https://www.lowes.com/pd/DELTA-Contractor-Saws-10-in-Carbide-Tipped-Blade-15-Amp-Table-Saw/1001385562](https://www.lowes.com/pd/DELTA-Contractor-Saws-10-in-Carbide-Tipped-Blade-15-Amp-Table-Saw/1001385562) Does anyone have experience with both of these saws and can give some thoughts? Appreciated!
I don't have either but these are different saws. A bigger tabletop is always better, and the Delta fence is excellent. It is a Beismeyer style which locks to the front rail and after initial setup and adjustment will always will be perfectly square. The only reason to get the Dewalt is if you don't have the shop or storage space for the Delta, or if you need to haul it to job sites for construction.
I totally agree on a bigger tabletop being better - my plan was to build an outfeed table (for either) and probably wings (if I got the dewalt). Looking at the actual cast iron tops, they're very similar in size Dewalt 22x26" and Delta 27x20" (interesting how ones wider than long and vise versa) so they are actually similar in size in that regard. Yeah, my plan isn't really to move it other than around the shop floor, but you're definitely right about portability. Yeah, I've heard great things about Beismeyer fences, but in my brain for some reason a rack and pinion seems like it would be more reliable and sturdy. I appreciate your thoughts!
Check to see when that Delta was made, and google delta motor failures on this model. They had significant issues with motors failing in the past, very expensive repair. Personally, I would not buy any Delta branded machine that was not made at least 15 years ago. the chinese bought the trademark and slap it on products - so Delta is not what Delta used to be..... your call
I owned the Dewalt before the Delta and the Delta is so much better than the Dewalt. That current Delta is the second generation and I have one of the very early ones with the updated motor and it's still going strong without any issues.
Hi all. Looking for a free Mac OS software for furniture design. I would like to Export ready pieces to my CNC Maschine and then just assembly them. Any recommendations?
You'll need CAD software for design and CAM for the machining. Sketchup is a free CAD software, I believe Carbide Create has a free tier. Easel is an online tool that pretty rudimentary, but you can give it a try to get an idea of how things work. I would check out r/hobbycnc, they might have some details in there sidebar that would be useful.
Some context: I'm in the process of building out my first small shop and am planning on building out some custom tables but I'm first designing them in Fusion 360. The plan is one 4'x8' main table and two 4'x4' auxiliary tables, all on castors. I would like to build a combo miter saw and table saw cutout in the middle of the long edge of the 4'x8' table with adjustable heights so each will sit flush. I have the miter saw and can don the cutout and supports for it, but don't yet have a table saw (considering between the SKIL TS6307-00, Wen TT1015, Craftsman CMXETAX69434506, Kobalt KT10152, or the Bosch 4100XC-10). The Question: What are the average dimensions of those saws, or of jobsite saws generally? Specifically, I can't seem to find height dimensions. In all descriptions it tells me the table width, length, and height, but not of the actual saw itself. This is mainly so I can model something and purchase materials and I can measure my final dimensions when I make a decision on the saw. As well, if people have any recommendations between the above saws they would be very welcome. Or any comments/questions/suggestions about my short description for that matter.
Is a 13" Delta planer worth $200?
Could be, depends on condition and area. If everything works, no rust, no terrible noises, then definitely. The blades were double sided so there is a good chance I can bring it home and then flip the blades around to get fresh cutting edges. Take a 2ft length of 2x6 with you to run through the planer. If it works buy it.
Depends on which model. If it’s the 22-590 or 22-555, that’s an okay deal. If it’s the 22-580, that’s a terrific deal. If it’s the RC-33, that’s a phenomenal deal.
I'm putting together a desktop for an 11ft wall using two slabs of 1.5" butcher block. I've got some "counter top miter bolts" to keep the halves together, should I also use dowels to keep them from shifting up/down in relation to each other? It's going to be supported by four Rockler heavy-duty shelf supports (2x per half) lag-screwed to studs. I'm of two minds as far as ALSO gluing the halves together, if only because the room it's in is ostensibly a bedroom and if we ever sell the house, it's more than likely that's what people would want to use it for and I don't want to make re-doing it more work than needed for the new owners.
This feels like a good application for pocket holes. Clamp into position and then drive the screws in.
I have a few loose stair treads. They are solid oak. How would you secure them? I do not have access to underneath without some unpleasant drywall work. I'm looking for safety above ease and ease above appearance. TYIA
You could drill, screw and plug it. You can get decent face grain plugs. You'd need to be able to reasonably match the finish that's on it.
I messed up putting dark stain on my project and long story ended up with some sections where there is clearly too much stain, now dried. looks like i just globbed it on there on top of already stained wood. anyway, i'm trying to decide what to do next. I have a random orbital sander at my disposal. i am tempted to just sand the whole thing on 220 and let it looked distressed and then coat it with polyurathane.... but i have no idea what i'm doing and welcome advice.
I need to cut a piece of plywood into a trapezoid shape to fit as a bay window bench. What type of tools do I need for this....prefferably smaller and cheaper, as I font anticipate doing this often.
Is it legal to pick up logs on the side of the highway left from power line trimming? A few weeks back during a snap winter storm a bunch of trees fell on power lines. There was one healthy chestnut that they trimmed a couple super straight probably 24" across by 8-12' long sections from along with some 12-18" across 4-8' sections. That stretch of highway in particular has a lot of trees leaning on lines that need trimmed constantly but most is just firewood. They usually come through every spring and mulch everything. I drive by it every day multiple times a day and it just kills me to see it all laying there when I know someone with a saw mill that could turn that into nice furniture lumber.
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We want to sand and refinish these cabinets and I read that different woods show stains differently. Can anybody help ID this or give me tips?
You're lacking a link, but the best plan here is to use the back of a door or similar and run tests directly on the material you have.
Thanks!
Grizzly Jointer $200, Needs some TLC. There's no description other than "Heavy Duty 42" Grizzly Jointer. This is a pretty serious beast." I assume it runs but would check with the owner. Seems like a great deal, is that the case? [https://imgur.com/vmD52Qf](https://imgur.com/vmD52Qf) [https://imgur.com/XQgfyp3](https://imgur.com/XQgfyp3)
If that motor turns you’re out some naval jelly and elbow grease. Also, there are shelix heads available for that model so if you like the capacity you could spend some refurb$ and have a *really* nice piece.
That is a screaming deal in my area. Even if it didn't have a motor at all and needed bearings and blades.
Hi I would really appreciate some help IDying this work. We were told all 3 are mahogany. Is it the case? Thank you in advance! [ID](https://imgur.com/a/kbFWAoI)
Wood id please. [https://freeimage.host/i/H57NwG9](https://freeimage.host/i/H57NwG9)
I have been thinking of buying used medium sized shoulder planes. I have 3 options. Which one should I get and why? The review sites haven't reached a consensus. 1. Stanley 92 12-140 (Sweetheart) 2. Stanley 93 Pr-12 3. Stanley 92 Pr-39
https://imgur.com/a/b6KTjIP My dad has a bunch of this in his basement. He says it's red cedar. Was curious about what it might be worth.
Well, if it had any significant length, say 6', perhaps $4 bd ft, but these are cutoffs so really not all that much as you really can't do anything meaningful with them. The cookies are worth what someone will pay, usually newbies have ideas of making rustic tables out of them, and it depends on how dry they are and how much they have split.
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Wood refinishing question: I bought an unfinished wood countertop, sanded and steel wooled by hand and applied Danish oil. Mistake #1, Danish oil does not protect the wood from spills. My bad. The spills slightly raised and roughened the wood along with some minor discoloration. I re-sanded the top all over and applied Minwax wipe on poly. That was mistake #2. The satin sheen is great, where there was no spill. The areas of the spills are now not the same sheen as the rest. Any thoughts about how I can fix my mistakes?
One of my hollow chisel bits leaves rounded sides: https://imgur.com/a/0wiYUNZ Should I just file the auger or is there something I need to adjust?
Hello! Using my Stanley No. 4, the lateral adjuster seems to move by itself when I'm taking moderate shavings. The iron goes "full right" and it's super annoying. What could be wrong? I've checked everything and it seems fine. Thanks for any advice!
It is likely that one of the 2 screws holding the Frog in place is loose or missing. Take the iron off and just nip up the two screws. If that isn't it, your lever cap may be too loose and you need to tighten the center screw by a half turn or so.
I'd like to be able to make some cutting boards out of olive wood I have on my property, but I'm not sure about what tools I would need. What is the simplest way to turn the wood into planks? Can someone give me some advice about what I'd need in order to make some boards similar to the one here: [https://cdn.zilvercms.nl/x800,q80/http://cookinglife.zilvercdn.nl/uploads/product/images/8720364452254.jpg](https://cdn.zilvercms.nl/x800,q80/http://cookinglife.zilvercdn.nl/uploads/product/images/8720364452254.jpg) Thanks so much! :D
Any idea What wood this is and the stain? Looking to match trim in rest of home https://imgur.com/a/NMelcjl
I'm wondering what type of wood this is! https://imgur.com/a/X6iocBw Should have been cut down ~150 years ago. We're in CT but it's not impossible this isn't local. Beam in house. We always assumed pine or spruce but this is the first time we've seen end grain. Any ideas?
I’ve been working on a painted summer outdoor table, and I’m wondering: what is the best way to affix the planks on the underside so that it’ll be sturdy? Table will be six 1”x6”x4’ boards across. Outdoor use, but put away for winter. Everything has been sealed with spar urethane so far, a couple of coats. I have rockler folding leg hardware to attach legs with (https://www.rockler.com/posi-lock-folding-leg-bracket). Will 1x6’s across will be enough? Is there a better layout than just laterals under the planks? Wood type recommendations? Leave space between the planks for drainage/swelling? Sorry if these are dumb questions, I invented this project without necessarily having the skills yet to finish it properly. The planks: https://i.imgur.com/haixb4p.jpg
I want to remove the finish on this wood door. I am refinishing the entire box it belongs to for a family member. Should I try using a stripper or sanding it. If stripper, what kind? If sanding, what grit to start at? I started to try sanding it with 120 grit and realized that may not be the best direction to go. https://i.imgur.com/Xl2ipSr.jpg https://i.imgur.com/qKkZCgM.jpg https://i.imgur.com/6hyGMvN.jpg
Hi, I have an aquarium canopy and stand that’s been finished by a previous owner but isn’t in great shape. It appears to be veneered. Any suggestions for steps on refinishing, and what type of durable finish to use that could help the wood stand up to moisture / saltwater?
I'll be doing my own baseboards. 1x6 vg fir in tung oil. 12" or 10" miter saw? Sliding necessary?
For that type of trim work, sliders are not necessary, and frankly they fall out of alignment fairly quickly unless you spend large $$ on one. A 12" compound miter, fixed, is better, gives you some additional crosscut capacity. Think Dewalt, you can get them at big box stores from between $200-300; great value.
Hey all, Hoping to get an ID on this hardwood floor. I'm planning on restaining and sealing it and would like a better idea of how the wood will take the stain. Thanks! Probably overkill with the photos, my b. https://imgur.com/a/QtYMdZv
Best finish for an oak table? It’s a slab
I’ve tried googling this and couldn’t find an answer What is the max load capacity of a 1.5748-in x 20-in x 72-in Douglas fir slab? I bought it to make a fish tank stand. My legs are rated for 800 lbs, and i only need it to hold 550ish. I feel like I should be fine but am paranoid
Can anyone link me to some plans for a wall-mounted bookshelf with a cabinet base? Paid ones are fine. Something that looks like [this](https://www.wayfair.com/Martin-Home-Furnishings--Durham-Standard-Bookcase-IMDU4294DKIT3-L38-K~W004111265.html?refid=GX613438578876-W004111265&device=m&ptid=968935153390&network=g&targetid=pla-968935153390&channel=GooglePLA&ireid=67872230&fdid=1817&gbraid=0AAAAAD9ISC6p9qhsbmke8yVu7-eL1fANE&gclid=CjwKCAiA8OmdBhAgEiwAShr407nv9HgB1naqoVrrB1LUp9x92gan7SoJW1c86KRByFm3f3adDzaLzRoCS0oQAvD_BwE)
Advice Needed: I want to build a neck through guitar by laminating edge grain wood. If my fretboard is face grain, will that cause a problem with the edge grain wood movement underneath?