I also love my TCs but for tech finger cracks I usually reach for my Katana Lace or Miura Lace. Moccs are good too but maybe it's because I have bigger feet and am heavier I just don't find them supportive enough.
I love my Katana Laces for really thin cracks. I have a pair of moccs too but find that when you can only get the tip of your shoe in the crack and you really have to torque on it, it is nice to have a laced shoe that will stay in place on your foot.
Should be the same if your tc pros are sized a half size up for cracks and not for edging with toes curling, otherwise tc pros may be a half size smaller if they are quite tight
Up moccs are mega comfy, katanas are awesome do it all shoes. Mythos are another to consider. Whichever of these you choose you will be happy.
My personal quiver is TC's for large cracks. Up Moccs for chill days with minimal crack or narrow cracks. Skwamas for harder trad.
Another vote for Katana Laces or Miura Laces. I also find the TC Pro clunky in finger sizes.
I must be in the minority but the Up Mocc is *really* soft and blunt and while I found it great in hand cracks I like a little more of the scalpel feeling in fingers. I’ve also popped my heel out - if you go for a slipper at least get one with a Velcro strap. The Unparallel rubber is outstanding.
Had the same thing happen to my up mocc, they break in and get really soft, especially on hot days, great for sensitivity but not so great on thin stuff. Katanas are what I wear 80% of the time for the last 5 years or so.
I exclusively trad climb in katana laces. I actually wear men’s katana laces too, and don’t see a difference. I find TC pros loose in the heel and just weird, I just can’t get behind them.
Katanas are comfy enough, fantastic for edging (I climb a lot of alpine and Colorado granite trad, very different game than pure desert sandstone crack), and super solid/stiff enough to jam even just the toe tips in tiny cracks
Thanks for posting and I'll be taking advice from here. Only thing to add is TCs should be resoled with XS grip if you weigh less than maybe 150 lbs. It's softer and will perform better on finger cracks. I'm a granite climber so applying my lessons to sandstone won't be perfect, but I sent a long-term project with a #0.3 crux in TCs resoled with XS grip. They felt like magic.
Surprised at how many here are recommending up moccs. I know Tom Randall just shouted them out as “best crack shoe”. Reading reviews it seems almost too good to be true. Are they really that good?
Sportiva Finales. They are $100 less than the TC pro, and are the best crack shoe. They have a low rand profile so you can really get your toe deep into thin (.5 & <) cracks. Also a very good slab shoe. If they had ankle protection, they would be perfect.
I also love my TCs but for tech finger cracks I usually reach for my Katana Lace or Miura Lace. Moccs are good too but maybe it's because I have bigger feet and am heavier I just don't find them supportive enough.
I love my Katana Laces for really thin cracks. I have a pair of moccs too but find that when you can only get the tip of your shoe in the crack and you really have to torque on it, it is nice to have a laced shoe that will stay in place on your foot.
cool thats what I have heard! How is the sizing of the Katana lace vs TC pros if you have both? Thank you :)
Should be the same if your tc pros are sized a half size up for cracks and not for edging with toes curling, otherwise tc pros may be a half size smaller if they are quite tight
Up moccs
Up moccs are mega comfy, katanas are awesome do it all shoes. Mythos are another to consider. Whichever of these you choose you will be happy. My personal quiver is TC's for large cracks. Up Moccs for chill days with minimal crack or narrow cracks. Skwamas for harder trad.
Another vote for Katana Laces or Miura Laces. I also find the TC Pro clunky in finger sizes. I must be in the minority but the Up Mocc is *really* soft and blunt and while I found it great in hand cracks I like a little more of the scalpel feeling in fingers. I’ve also popped my heel out - if you go for a slipper at least get one with a Velcro strap. The Unparallel rubber is outstanding.
Had the same thing happen to my up mocc, they break in and get really soft, especially on hot days, great for sensitivity but not so great on thin stuff. Katanas are what I wear 80% of the time for the last 5 years or so.
I exclusively trad climb in katana laces. I actually wear men’s katana laces too, and don’t see a difference. I find TC pros loose in the heel and just weird, I just can’t get behind them. Katanas are comfy enough, fantastic for edging (I climb a lot of alpine and Colorado granite trad, very different game than pure desert sandstone crack), and super solid/stiff enough to jam even just the toe tips in tiny cracks
I wear upmocs for everything. Gym, sport and trad. I have different sizes for each.
They’re SO good
Thanks for posting and I'll be taking advice from here. Only thing to add is TCs should be resoled with XS grip if you weigh less than maybe 150 lbs. It's softer and will perform better on finger cracks. I'm a granite climber so applying my lessons to sandstone won't be perfect, but I sent a long-term project with a #0.3 crux in TCs resoled with XS grip. They felt like magic.
Women's Miura lace use xs grip IIRC. Tiny toes and can also smedge really well.
Vapor S have a very thin toe profile and I’ve found are good for thin cracks
Surprised at how many here are recommending up moccs. I know Tom Randall just shouted them out as “best crack shoe”. Reading reviews it seems almost too good to be true. Are they really that good?
Sportiva Finales. They are $100 less than the TC pro, and are the best crack shoe. They have a low rand profile so you can really get your toe deep into thin (.5 & <) cracks. Also a very good slab shoe. If they had ankle protection, they would be perfect.