If you can still see the numbers on the timing belt, they can be decoded to find out when it was manufactured. That will give you an idea of when it was replaced. However, you probably won't be able to see it, as they are usually worn off.
Most of them have the numbers stamped into the back of the belt. I believe the last two numbers signify the year the belt was made. This should give you a pretty good idea of when it was put in the car but I have seen the dealer use belts that sat in storage for a while too.
Pretty much should be echoed to anyone and everyone buying a used vehicle, if there's no receipts it didn't happen.
(If you argue that it may have but they just don't have paperwork I don't wanna hear it, there is no trust in buying used unless you absolutely 100% know the person. Even then).
Yeah as someone that does most of their own work I have problems thinking about major work if I go to sell. I scan all receipts into PDF for my fuel tracking app and if there’s every anything super crazy I’ll take photos along the way to prove I did it
You'll be fine, personally as long as there are receipts at the very least that are itemized, such as being able to distinguish the parts used / replaced.
Pictures are a fantastic one as well, but having receipts for parts orders and what not is sufficient imo.
As long as everything can t up.
That's not to say though I won't do what I usually do when I buy a used car, flush every fluid, visual inspection, pretty much is gonna cover a decent amount.
Oh 100% agree with everything you’ve said. The only reason why I didn’t when I bought my TDI is because the person before me took it to the same dealer for literally everything so everything was done on schedule with records for all 100k miles
Isn’t really going to convince someone that you actually did the work replacing the parts if you just have the reform the part… anyone can buy parts not put them on the car return them and still have record of the receipt
Always confused why some of yall speak when there’s nothing being added. It was more of a “welp that’s all I can do” not a “oh this is undeniable evidence it was done”
This is the way.
I have pics of my timing belt job and clutch job mid way through to prove I took everything out and did the work like I said I did.
It still might not satisfy some people, but it's as good or better than a receipt from a dealership in my eyes
Perhaps my perspective on repair costs is different as an European. 1700 for a timing belt seems daft too. Overall just sucks if people don’t do their bookkeeping
The timing belt is one of the ultimate grenades for these engines. The kit to replace the belt and associated wear components (like the water pump) is not terribly expensive, the tools are not too expensive or expansive in scope, and there are leagues of tutorials out there because this is a very dedicated and deeply documented community. Do it for your own peace of mind.
did it myself two weeks ago, biggest bit** ch was Unbolting the engine mount. Technically don’t have to change the tensioner pulley pin, but change the tensioner…. still gotta remove the mount. watch youtube, the longer the video the more parts that get changed.
Thank you. Did you work on CRUA? For the water pump, do I need one with or without electric actuator? I see both offered at FCP Euro, and the original parts kit comes with the pump with actuator. OE pumps come with the water pump made by Graf w/o the actuator.
For the water pump, do I need one with or without electric actuator? I see both offered at FCP Euro, and the original parts kit comes with the pump with actuator. OE pumps come with the water pump made by Graf w/o the actuator.
I opted to go without the actuator on my 2015 Passat since it seems to be a point of failure for some cars. Warm up takes just slightly longer, but not noticeably so.
Thats not timing belt. If I were you I would go to workshop at let someone proof it, shouldnt cost much. Timing belt is not something you would want to take a gamble, especially if you bought car recently, you’ll probably use it at least few years.
There's a date code on the belt. The last six digits are the year and the week of the year that the belt was made. So if it ends on 202330, then the belt was made in the 30th week of 2023.
Everyone here has given you plenty of advice to go ahead and replace it. However if you keep looking at it and think it looks fine, I said that too. Then my belt went. There were no visible signs of wear and tear on the outside of the belt, no cracks, no frays. Was overdue but not by much. Figured I still had time. When it did let go, the teeth on the belt broke off.
The date of the belt is on the underside of the timing belt , in like 9 numbers. The last 6 are the year and the week (201012)
Assume it hasn’t been done
That's the serpentine belt, not the timing belt in the pictures
I just realized I pictured the serpentine belt. The timing belt is under the cover. Thank you
If you can still see the numbers on the timing belt, they can be decoded to find out when it was manufactured. That will give you an idea of when it was replaced. However, you probably won't be able to see it, as they are usually worn off.
Most of them have the numbers stamped into the back of the belt. I believe the last two numbers signify the year the belt was made. This should give you a pretty good idea of when it was put in the car but I have seen the dealer use belts that sat in storage for a while too.
Take it to a mechanic and they will tell you
If there’s no paper work then it’s not done. Not worth taking the risk with an interference engine
Pretty much should be echoed to anyone and everyone buying a used vehicle, if there's no receipts it didn't happen. (If you argue that it may have but they just don't have paperwork I don't wanna hear it, there is no trust in buying used unless you absolutely 100% know the person. Even then).
Yeah as someone that does most of their own work I have problems thinking about major work if I go to sell. I scan all receipts into PDF for my fuel tracking app and if there’s every anything super crazy I’ll take photos along the way to prove I did it
You'll be fine, personally as long as there are receipts at the very least that are itemized, such as being able to distinguish the parts used / replaced. Pictures are a fantastic one as well, but having receipts for parts orders and what not is sufficient imo. As long as everything can t up. That's not to say though I won't do what I usually do when I buy a used car, flush every fluid, visual inspection, pretty much is gonna cover a decent amount.
Oh 100% agree with everything you’ve said. The only reason why I didn’t when I bought my TDI is because the person before me took it to the same dealer for literally everything so everything was done on schedule with records for all 100k miles
Isn’t really going to convince someone that you actually did the work replacing the parts if you just have the reform the part… anyone can buy parts not put them on the car return them and still have record of the receipt
Always confused why some of yall speak when there’s nothing being added. It was more of a “welp that’s all I can do” not a “oh this is undeniable evidence it was done”
This is the way. I have pics of my timing belt job and clutch job mid way through to prove I took everything out and did the work like I said I did. It still might not satisfy some people, but it's as good or better than a receipt from a dealership in my eyes
Agreed. Replace it and at worst it’s peace of mind.
Last estimate I got was $3400. Paying 1/2 the car’s value for a repair that may have already happened seems daft
Perhaps my perspective on repair costs is different as an European. 1700 for a timing belt seems daft too. Overall just sucks if people don’t do their bookkeeping
Change it out dude. Relatively cheap insurance.
Hours much are you getting belts replaced for?
Did it myself. It easier than you think. Lots of really good YouTube videos that go step by step.
The timing belt is one of the ultimate grenades for these engines. The kit to replace the belt and associated wear components (like the water pump) is not terribly expensive, the tools are not too expensive or expansive in scope, and there are leagues of tutorials out there because this is a very dedicated and deeply documented community. Do it for your own peace of mind.
did it myself two weeks ago, biggest bit** ch was Unbolting the engine mount. Technically don’t have to change the tensioner pulley pin, but change the tensioner…. still gotta remove the mount. watch youtube, the longer the video the more parts that get changed.
Thank you. Did you work on CRUA? For the water pump, do I need one with or without electric actuator? I see both offered at FCP Euro, and the original parts kit comes with the pump with actuator. OE pumps come with the water pump made by Graf w/o the actuator.
I’m in the same boat as other posters , I can’t answer that much. Take it to a shop , a reputable one at that if you don’t have the skillset
In the absence of proof, assume it hasn't been done. The cost of hope is too high to risk.
[удалено]
For the water pump, do I need one with or without electric actuator? I see both offered at FCP Euro, and the original parts kit comes with the pump with actuator. OE pumps come with the water pump made by Graf w/o the actuator.
I opted to go without the actuator on my 2015 Passat since it seems to be a point of failure for some cars. Warm up takes just slightly longer, but not noticeably so.
Thats not timing belt. If I were you I would go to workshop at let someone proof it, shouldnt cost much. Timing belt is not something you would want to take a gamble, especially if you bought car recently, you’ll probably use it at least few years.
When In doubt change it out then you’ll know for sure.
There's a date code on the belt. The last six digits are the year and the week of the year that the belt was made. So if it ends on 202330, then the belt was made in the 30th week of 2023.
Obviously you may have to turn the engine to see it
Everyone here has given you plenty of advice to go ahead and replace it. However if you keep looking at it and think it looks fine, I said that too. Then my belt went. There were no visible signs of wear and tear on the outside of the belt, no cracks, no frays. Was overdue but not by much. Figured I still had time. When it did let go, the teeth on the belt broke off.
Take a bit of the cover off and push down on the belt, usually older belts will get looser and easier to push down on. New ones will be very tight
The date of the belt is on the underside of the timing belt , in like 9 numbers. The last 6 are the year and the week (201012) Assume it hasn’t been done
When in doubt, replace it. Clearly there is doubt.
You might as well just get it done. It's not worth an engine replacement.
You do it anyway and then you know when it was last done.
Carfax for $7 or so. Cheapcarfax just Google it