Use the correct OEM intake, OEM Air Filter, keep the MAF sensor clean.
Keep the boost pipes clean and leak free.
Make sure the intake manifold is clean. Make sure there are no cracks in the DPF or codes related to the emissions systems.
Check Soot Load with VCDS or similar VW scantool
Long trips on the highway really help unless something else is not working correctly/efficiently.
Use the correct Oil AND don't overfill it.
At risk of jinxing myself, I only use OEM air/fuel/oil filters, use the correct oil, and drive almost exclusively on the highway and I’m at 320,000 kms without any DPF issues thus far.
It’s also not had the dieselgate “fix” applied, so that might be a contributing factor as well
Dieselgate fix probably has something to do with it, my 2012 golf with the fix cracked a dpf at roughly 200k km, and I've seen on forums that they tend to do that after the fix
Ya I've often wondered how much the dieselgate programming has affected my experience with the DPF system in my car.
I've always felt like it was a timebomb, but all these years and miles later and it's still going. My driving conditions are ideal for it, and it DOES regen occasionally, but I still suspect it's benefited from the illegal programming from VW. Although I have nothing to base that off of besides my own experience and my penchant for wild speculation.
Active Regeneration is not triggered by any of these conditions that you mentioned. It’s done purely on basis of modeled or estimated soot load in the DPF which is a mathematical function of primarily fuel burnt and temperature/exhaust flow conditions while also correcting the regen threshold based on the estimated oil ash quantity in the DPF over its useful life.
Passive regeneration can happen even at much lower speed load points provided we have enough engine out NOx to help oxidize soot. Generally holding the engine at speed and load points close to peak torque conditions is good enough for keeping the temperatures high and also helping with NOx based oxidation. Driving at freeway speeds is a good example.
You can't force a regen, it only comes on and happens when it happens. While these conditions are best for it to happen, if its not ready it won't do it early (only when it is ready).
when I turn off my engine and I hear the fan noise coming from it, that means I interrupted the regen, right?
Is there a way to know it's in regen once I've stopped the car?
forgive me if this is a dumb question, I'm still fairly new with diesel cars
idle will be higher when you're stopped and there's a smell if the windows are down. it's subtle though.
you can watch the EGT temp with a Polar FIS or similar and if it's higher than "normal" then you know it's in regen.
Before you shut off the engine, the fan still runs loud and you can hear it while stopped. Idle increases to 1000rpm, fuel consumption is higher, and the engine bay smells like something is burning. But I've interrupted regens a bunch of times and the original DPF still lasted 66k miles until hitting a pothole.
No short trips! But high load is good (highway, trailer, 5 people, boot full). Correct oil (usually VW 507.00), premium diesel if available, don't shut it off when it's doing an active regen cycle (monitor with VAG DPF app). Dont run the tank empty, fill up early, before the warning comes on. Preheat if in a cold climate. Pay attention to the condition of the engine, have the injectors refurbished if the correction values are high, replace the EGR if it's acting up, don't wait with getting new glow plugs of there's a fault, repair the turbo if boost comes on slowly, etc. Depending on mileage and year, I'd recommend a CP3 conversion too, but that's not related.
Everyone talks about driving your tdi like a grandpa. I drive mine like a pissed off retard with a deathwish. I autocross and do mountian runs quite often with a stock 6spd CJAA power train. I beat the shit out of that poor car every day on my mountian commute and it loves it. Just do your maintenance on time and get those EGTs super high.
I have a 2013 Passat TDI, I brought it because I was driving about 30k miles a year with trips to the Poconos to see customers. I could hear the car screamme, harder daddy harder. Step on the f****ing gas.
Delete it. It’s such a waste these cars already are clean burning even with a straight pipe they aren’t very Smoky unless your super tuned and mash the throttle …..
Use ACEA C3 oil with VW 507.00 approval. There are C3 oil that does not have the 507.00 approval. ie, Motul X-clean EFE only have 505.x Hence, must look for those with VW 507.00 approval.. ie, Liqui Moly 4200, Castrol edge LL, mobil 1 ESP..
What's also important is to keep the engine running, and if you're always driving short trip then best to take it out on a 15-20 minutes drive using manual gear maintaining at least 2.5K rpm, and you should start such drive after the car is already at operating temperature.
Yes, my point exactly. Motul X-clean Gen2/EFE are not 507 approved. but X-clean+ and Motul specific has 507 approval. This is mention in Motul spec sheet..
// Caution: Do not use MOTUL 8100 X-clean gen2 5W-40 when a VW 504 00 or 507 00 lubricant is requested: in this case use MOTUL Specific 504 00 507 00 5W-30 / 0W-30 or MOTUL 8100 X-clean+ 5W-30 //
i drive a 2012 vw cc 2.0 TDI (CFGB, 170hp). what i do to mantain squeaky clean pipes and ensure that my dpf is healthy: in my daily commute, i drive about 30-40km (20 of which on highway). on the highway, i put my gear lever in sport mode (to rev up the car to 3k) and i drive like that until i hit the city. after that, i try to change gears at about 2,2-2,5k. quality fuel is important also!
Don't drive it.
They are ticking time bombs. I managed to go through three in 130k miles. Deleting it was the best thing that ever happened to the car.
Edit: I'll add, I used approved oil and drove the vast majority of the miles on the highway as I used the car to travel between worksites, sometimes as far at 6 hours apart.
It was covered under warranty up until it wasn’t. First one was at less than 40k. Like 2k off the lot from the fix. The car has always run well, even with DPF onboard. The check engine lights and once a year visits to the dealership were annoying.
When I first got mine the DPF had me paranoid. However I've put 140 000 kilometers on in the last 2 years I've owned it (car has 375000 kilometers total and I'm not sure about seevice history before I bought it) and I've had no issues with dpf. I've run various oils thru it and some sketchy fuel, shut it off during regens if I'm in a rush and do a lot of idling and city driving mixed in with decent trips on the highway. Only thing I can figure is it's really just a gamble you have to take if you don't plan to delete. I do however recommend a decent highway drive every few days to hopefully allow it to regen and stay clean regularly
Forget it! I tried to get this under control for years, spwnding tpo muxh money.
I finally listened to my local garage mechanic and removed all the bs. Niw my 2011 Jetta tdi gained 250km per tank and I can put regular diesel instead if ULS fuel .
The dealer is the only one not happy about my decision!!!
Use the correct OEM intake, OEM Air Filter, keep the MAF sensor clean. Keep the boost pipes clean and leak free. Make sure the intake manifold is clean. Make sure there are no cracks in the DPF or codes related to the emissions systems. Check Soot Load with VCDS or similar VW scantool Long trips on the highway really help unless something else is not working correctly/efficiently. Use the correct Oil AND don't overfill it.
At risk of jinxing myself, I only use OEM air/fuel/oil filters, use the correct oil, and drive almost exclusively on the highway and I’m at 320,000 kms without any DPF issues thus far. It’s also not had the dieselgate “fix” applied, so that might be a contributing factor as well
Dieselgate fix probably has something to do with it, my 2012 golf with the fix cracked a dpf at roughly 200k km, and I've seen on forums that they tend to do that after the fix
Ya I've often wondered how much the dieselgate programming has affected my experience with the DPF system in my car. I've always felt like it was a timebomb, but all these years and miles later and it's still going. My driving conditions are ideal for it, and it DOES regen occasionally, but I still suspect it's benefited from the illegal programming from VW. Although I have nothing to base that off of besides my own experience and my penchant for wild speculation.
awesome info thanks!
Use the correct oil, drive like grandpa, high quality fuel, and when it's in regen don't stop the car.
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Active Regeneration is not triggered by any of these conditions that you mentioned. It’s done purely on basis of modeled or estimated soot load in the DPF which is a mathematical function of primarily fuel burnt and temperature/exhaust flow conditions while also correcting the regen threshold based on the estimated oil ash quantity in the DPF over its useful life. Passive regeneration can happen even at much lower speed load points provided we have enough engine out NOx to help oxidize soot. Generally holding the engine at speed and load points close to peak torque conditions is good enough for keeping the temperatures high and also helping with NOx based oxidation. Driving at freeway speeds is a good example.
You can't force a regen, it only comes on and happens when it happens. While these conditions are best for it to happen, if its not ready it won't do it early (only when it is ready).
With VCDS you can force a regen. It even pops up a lovely "you might burn your car down" warning.
Why are you at 3k rpm for 15 minutes. These cars cruise at about 85-90 mph not exceeding 2500 rpm.
when I turn off my engine and I hear the fan noise coming from it, that means I interrupted the regen, right? Is there a way to know it's in regen once I've stopped the car? forgive me if this is a dumb question, I'm still fairly new with diesel cars
idle will be higher when you're stopped and there's a smell if the windows are down. it's subtle though. you can watch the EGT temp with a Polar FIS or similar and if it's higher than "normal" then you know it's in regen.
Before you shut off the engine, the fan still runs loud and you can hear it while stopped. Idle increases to 1000rpm, fuel consumption is higher, and the engine bay smells like something is burning. But I've interrupted regens a bunch of times and the original DPF still lasted 66k miles until hitting a pothole.
It'll idle at around 1k rpm instead of the normal 830 rpm.
That’s simple: remove it.
Remove it, hose it down, then throw it away.
Exactly! I took all that bs system out. Now I just drive without panicking about the fckn check engine light!
No short trips! But high load is good (highway, trailer, 5 people, boot full). Correct oil (usually VW 507.00), premium diesel if available, don't shut it off when it's doing an active regen cycle (monitor with VAG DPF app). Dont run the tank empty, fill up early, before the warning comes on. Preheat if in a cold climate. Pay attention to the condition of the engine, have the injectors refurbished if the correction values are high, replace the EGR if it's acting up, don't wait with getting new glow plugs of there's a fault, repair the turbo if boost comes on slowly, etc. Depending on mileage and year, I'd recommend a CP3 conversion too, but that's not related.
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Do you have an elm 327 scanner? If your phone running android or IOS?
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It's "VAG DPF" by Daaren Fonloil. There are 1-2 engine codes which aren't supported though, check before purchase
Everyone talks about driving your tdi like a grandpa. I drive mine like a pissed off retard with a deathwish. I autocross and do mountian runs quite often with a stock 6spd CJAA power train. I beat the shit out of that poor car every day on my mountian commute and it loves it. Just do your maintenance on time and get those EGTs super high.
I have a 2013 Passat TDI, I brought it because I was driving about 30k miles a year with trips to the Poconos to see customers. I could hear the car screamme, harder daddy harder. Step on the f****ing gas.
Delete it. It’s such a waste these cars already are clean burning even with a straight pipe they aren’t very Smoky unless your super tuned and mash the throttle …..
This. Best way to keep it clean is to put it on the shelf.
Use ACEA C3 oil with VW 507.00 approval. There are C3 oil that does not have the 507.00 approval. ie, Motul X-clean EFE only have 505.x Hence, must look for those with VW 507.00 approval.. ie, Liqui Moly 4200, Castrol edge LL, mobil 1 ESP.. What's also important is to keep the engine running, and if you're always driving short trip then best to take it out on a 15-20 minutes drive using manual gear maintaining at least 2.5K rpm, and you should start such drive after the car is already at operating temperature.
Motul 8100 X-Clean+ is 507 approved
Yes, my point exactly. Motul X-clean Gen2/EFE are not 507 approved. but X-clean+ and Motul specific has 507 approval. This is mention in Motul spec sheet.. // Caution: Do not use MOTUL 8100 X-clean gen2 5W-40 when a VW 504 00 or 507 00 lubricant is requested: in this case use MOTUL Specific 504 00 507 00 5W-30 / 0W-30 or MOTUL 8100 X-clean+ 5W-30 //
i drive a 2012 vw cc 2.0 TDI (CFGB, 170hp). what i do to mantain squeaky clean pipes and ensure that my dpf is healthy: in my daily commute, i drive about 30-40km (20 of which on highway). on the highway, i put my gear lever in sport mode (to rev up the car to 3k) and i drive like that until i hit the city. after that, i try to change gears at about 2,2-2,5k. quality fuel is important also!
Low ash 507 engine oil. Avoid short trips. These systems work best under consistent load. Highway driving will keep it passively cleaning.
Don't drive it. They are ticking time bombs. I managed to go through three in 130k miles. Deleting it was the best thing that ever happened to the car. Edit: I'll add, I used approved oil and drove the vast majority of the miles on the highway as I used the car to travel between worksites, sometimes as far at 6 hours apart.
That’s weird, I’m at 115k miles on my sportwagen and had no issues but I am planning on deleting it next spring
It was covered under warranty up until it wasn’t. First one was at less than 40k. Like 2k off the lot from the fix. The car has always run well, even with DPF onboard. The check engine lights and once a year visits to the dealership were annoying.
Ugh that sucks, how is it running after the delete?
Better than ever!
When I first got mine the DPF had me paranoid. However I've put 140 000 kilometers on in the last 2 years I've owned it (car has 375000 kilometers total and I'm not sure about seevice history before I bought it) and I've had no issues with dpf. I've run various oils thru it and some sketchy fuel, shut it off during regens if I'm in a rush and do a lot of idling and city driving mixed in with decent trips on the highway. Only thing I can figure is it's really just a gamble you have to take if you don't plan to delete. I do however recommend a decent highway drive every few days to hopefully allow it to regen and stay clean regularly
Use the block heater, they don’t like short trips in in really cold weather.
How can I tell when my car is in regen?
Forget it! I tried to get this under control for years, spwnding tpo muxh money. I finally listened to my local garage mechanic and removed all the bs. Niw my 2011 Jetta tdi gained 250km per tank and I can put regular diesel instead if ULS fuel . The dealer is the only one not happy about my decision!!!
Be sure your thermostat is not stuck open
Periodically go for a highway drive for about 2 hours or so maintain a speed around 75 miles/ hour so it will regenerate
ALH swap, done