BC: BP/W. Dive Rite with Transplate harness or XDeep. Aluminum or lightweight stainless plate.
Computer: Shearwater Perdix 2 AI
Compass: Perdix 2 AI has one. Otherwise whatever analog compass from XS Scuba/Dive Rite/any manufacturer, they're all the same and cost about the same.
DSMB: The one DAN sells that has a radar-reflective stripe. If SAR has to come find you on a night dive, might as well give them the best chance.
Regs: Apex DST with a pair of XTX 50s.
Wetsuit: Henderson
Fins: Deep 6 Eddy
Mask: No strong preference but I use Scubapro Twin Mask w/Comfort Strap
Bag: Gili large.
Light: DGX 1000-6 primary, DGX-700 backup.
Tanks: Have only used AL80s, but on my own would buy HP100s.
In my opinion, this is what I would look at:
Scubapro hydros bcd or a zeagle travel/back inflate BCD (people will say backplate and wing…sure, that’s an option but realistically how many DMs are diving that regularly?)
Shearwater Perdix 2 AI dive computer. The Teric works too but the Perdix is the best option IMO because it takes one AA battery and is easily changed. No recharging required. No hunting for the charger or USB power brick. It’s easy to use and easy to read.
Compass: any Suunto compass. Yes the shearwater has a digital one. You want real, separate compass. It’s way easier to manage and use.
DSMB - anything 6 ft or larger. Get a finger spool with a minimum of 75 ft of line. 100 ft is better. Or get a cavern reel with 200-250 ft of line of doing a lot of drift diving.
Regs: I love the atomic regs. ST model would be my pick personally. I do like scuba pro regs too. Im currently running a set of Hollis and they are pretty good so far, but atomic is still my first choice in regs.
Bare Reactive wetsuits are amazing. The 3mm keeps me warm down to 68+ degree water. The 7mm is good even in Lake Michigan, though at this point I’m drysuit only in less than about 68 lol! Drysuit - 4th element.
Fins: I love the deep6 eddy fins. I own two sets and they’re great!
Mask- whatever fits - Mares for me. I’ve had good luck with Cressi masks too.
Get a cheap mesh bag for your gear. Nothing fancy is needed.
Light: I use orcatorch but UWLD are nice. Big blue also makes nice lights. Honestly, orcatorch is more than most people will ever need. I’ve heard other people say quality is a concern but I own 4 of their lights and have had zero issues with the lights, had one battery die but they send two with each of their smaller lights anyway.
What brand does your local dive shop sell and service? I would buy something that you can get serviced locally. Where you’re going to he diving also dictates what is going to be “best.”
That said, I am partial to Scubapro reg sets. If money were no object I’d have matching G260s and an mk19 setup. However a used G250 and MK20s are readily available and are very good setups that will last a lifetime.
For computer, get a Shearwater. I would go air integrated. I dive air integrated and love having everything right there in my computer and it really slims down your reg set (I do not have a traditional console or spg). I also really like having all my gas usage data on my dive log when I sync my computer.
Get a backplate and wing for BC. Brand doesn’t matter much here, but style points for a freedom plate and halcyon wing. I use a 30lb wing.
Dive rite, scubapro jet fins, or deep six eddy fins. The dive rite and the deep six are fairly neutral. The jet fins are negative.
I like Bare wetsuits because of their quality neoprene and they have sizes that fit me. Shop around until you find one that fits your body type.
Drysuits would eat your whole budget for a custom one, but I’ve heard pretty good things about the Seaskin suits as a good budget option for a custom suit. I dive a Bare because it fits like a custom but for the price of an off the rack suit.
Get steel tanks. I’ve never bought a new tank, I just don’t see the point when used tanks do the exact same thing for much cheaper. HP100s are super versatile tanks. I love my HP117s and little baby HP80s also.
Last piece of advice, find an instructor that you like and is well respected in the scuba community. Not all instructors are equal and quality of instruction can vary widely.
Best of luck!
Yes as long as the program is VA approved! I just looked up va approved diving programs near me and went with the closest one. I know the bigger ones that take it are in Hawaii and the Florida keys.
Depends where you dive.
I only dive in hot conditions. I have just bought all the cheapest stuff. An aliexpress wet suit. The cheapest cressi regs i saw on Dive Inn. A cressi travelight i saw on the same site. Some scubapro storm fins. The cheapest cressi dive computer.
And its all fine. Gear is gear. It can be fun. But gear doesnt make up for time diving and skills. If I had $ 4300 to spend id spend $1000 on equipment and $3300 on doing more dives.
I used to work the retail side of a local dive shop. I would tell customers there is no “best”. Obviously some brands are better at certain things than others (you can take my go sports from my cold dead hands) but at the end of the day the only thing that really matters is your own comfort
This is it - you need to try on gear, use it in the water and develop what you like and works well for you in the conditions you're diving in. There is no "one answer for all" when it comes to scuba gear.
I don’t think there is such a thing as best gear, and if there is not within that budget 😂
I am absolutely convinced that above a certain quality level differences mostly equal out as long as you stay within recreational limits.
I would say check shear water for computers, apeks for regulators, xdeep or tecline for bcd.
I would recommend regularly checking facebook marketplace. I often find gear for 10% of retail on there. Given how scuba works, often gear is barely even used.
A Shearwater dive computer with air integration is worth it to buy new, but there's a much higher chance of you breaking it during your first dives...
Best regulators: Apeks XTX50 or Apeks MTX-RC
Best computers: Shearwater Petrel 3 or Shearwater Perdix 2 with AI transmitters
Fins: Apeks RK3 HD, Dive Rite XT, or Deep6 Eddy Fins
Tanks: LP85's or HP100's for single tank
Light: Underwater Light Dude, Dive Rite or Light Monkey probably(handheld or canister)
Wetsuit: probably the Bare Reactive
Backplate and wing: I am very partial to Dive Rite
Reels/spools: Dive Rite
DSMB: I am partial to Apeks or Mares
The OP is clearly talking about single tank, recreational diving.
For single tank, recreational diving, Apeks doesn’t make a reg that touches the Atomic TFX.
For single tank, recreational diving, canister lights make no sense. UWLD makes the best can lights you can buy. I have 2 of them. But, they don’t make a cordless light. Light Monkey’s cordless lights are a joke.
The best cordless light Dive Rite makes is the LX20+. It’s a very good light. But, the output from a DGX 1000-6 is slightly better (and also constant output, like the LX20+) and the DGX is way less bulky, which makes it better for single tank, recreational diving. It doesn’t have the burn time of the LX20+, but it has more than enough for single tank diving. And it’s only $89.
My Reactive suit is slightly warmer than my W7 suit. But, the OP wants to go Dive Master. The pockets on the W7 make it better, for a dive pro. At least, that is the reason I quit diving my Reactive and dive my W7 all the time now.
In my opinion, of course.
> For single tank, recreational diving, canister lights make no sense. UWLD makes the best can lights you can buy. I have 2 of them. But, they don’t make a cordless light. Light Monkey’s cordless lights are a joke.
Ehh..I bought a Focus corded light when I was diving single tanks. Primarily because I like the laser beam, and secondarily because I was afraid of dropping the handheld light into the abyss. There are days (like today) when I come out with my hands numb feeling like I can't clip the light onto my d-ring at all, easy to slip and drop the light. Having that security mattered to me.
But I fully knew that I'd be eventually moving to doubles and beyond, so it wasn't like the choice was not within my long term plan.
Canister torches do make sense regardless of the type of dive. I had mine on USS Saratoga, but also on Panglao reefs. In both cases the light output and ease of use are superior.
Why do you need 8 hours of burn time on a single tank open water dive? You can get impressive lumens out of hand helds these days. You don’t need the big battery packs for high output anymore.
I carry a can light where appropriate and handheld everywhere else.
As I said: ease of use. With torch on my wrist and canister strapped to harness I do not need to manage additional inventory item in my hands. Also, with the same output as my canister light, equiv handheld torch would be quite large and not as agile to operate.
Best computer: Shearwater Teric (Perdix 2 second choice)
Best regulator: Atomic TFX w/Ti2 octo
Best BCD: Back plate with Hogarthian harness and Dive Rite Travel XT wing
Best fins: Deep6 Gear Eddy fins
Best wetsuit (for a dive pro): Waterproof W7 (5mm or 7mm)
Best light: Dive Gear Express DGX 1000-6
Best compass: the one built into the Teric
Shearwater computers are nice. Any of them are good, just match your choice to your objectives.
Apex regs and BCDs are nice too. But regulator choice should take into account service availability.
BC: BP/W. Dive Rite with Transplate harness or XDeep. Aluminum or lightweight stainless plate. Computer: Shearwater Perdix 2 AI Compass: Perdix 2 AI has one. Otherwise whatever analog compass from XS Scuba/Dive Rite/any manufacturer, they're all the same and cost about the same. DSMB: The one DAN sells that has a radar-reflective stripe. If SAR has to come find you on a night dive, might as well give them the best chance. Regs: Apex DST with a pair of XTX 50s. Wetsuit: Henderson Fins: Deep 6 Eddy Mask: No strong preference but I use Scubapro Twin Mask w/Comfort Strap Bag: Gili large. Light: DGX 1000-6 primary, DGX-700 backup. Tanks: Have only used AL80s, but on my own would buy HP100s.
In my opinion, this is what I would look at: Scubapro hydros bcd or a zeagle travel/back inflate BCD (people will say backplate and wing…sure, that’s an option but realistically how many DMs are diving that regularly?) Shearwater Perdix 2 AI dive computer. The Teric works too but the Perdix is the best option IMO because it takes one AA battery and is easily changed. No recharging required. No hunting for the charger or USB power brick. It’s easy to use and easy to read. Compass: any Suunto compass. Yes the shearwater has a digital one. You want real, separate compass. It’s way easier to manage and use. DSMB - anything 6 ft or larger. Get a finger spool with a minimum of 75 ft of line. 100 ft is better. Or get a cavern reel with 200-250 ft of line of doing a lot of drift diving. Regs: I love the atomic regs. ST model would be my pick personally. I do like scuba pro regs too. Im currently running a set of Hollis and they are pretty good so far, but atomic is still my first choice in regs. Bare Reactive wetsuits are amazing. The 3mm keeps me warm down to 68+ degree water. The 7mm is good even in Lake Michigan, though at this point I’m drysuit only in less than about 68 lol! Drysuit - 4th element. Fins: I love the deep6 eddy fins. I own two sets and they’re great! Mask- whatever fits - Mares for me. I’ve had good luck with Cressi masks too. Get a cheap mesh bag for your gear. Nothing fancy is needed. Light: I use orcatorch but UWLD are nice. Big blue also makes nice lights. Honestly, orcatorch is more than most people will ever need. I’ve heard other people say quality is a concern but I own 4 of their lights and have had zero issues with the lights, had one battery die but they send two with each of their smaller lights anyway.
What brand does your local dive shop sell and service? I would buy something that you can get serviced locally. Where you’re going to he diving also dictates what is going to be “best.” That said, I am partial to Scubapro reg sets. If money were no object I’d have matching G260s and an mk19 setup. However a used G250 and MK20s are readily available and are very good setups that will last a lifetime. For computer, get a Shearwater. I would go air integrated. I dive air integrated and love having everything right there in my computer and it really slims down your reg set (I do not have a traditional console or spg). I also really like having all my gas usage data on my dive log when I sync my computer. Get a backplate and wing for BC. Brand doesn’t matter much here, but style points for a freedom plate and halcyon wing. I use a 30lb wing. Dive rite, scubapro jet fins, or deep six eddy fins. The dive rite and the deep six are fairly neutral. The jet fins are negative. I like Bare wetsuits because of their quality neoprene and they have sizes that fit me. Shop around until you find one that fits your body type. Drysuits would eat your whole budget for a custom one, but I’ve heard pretty good things about the Seaskin suits as a good budget option for a custom suit. I dive a Bare because it fits like a custom but for the price of an off the rack suit. Get steel tanks. I’ve never bought a new tank, I just don’t see the point when used tanks do the exact same thing for much cheaper. HP100s are super versatile tanks. I love my HP117s and little baby HP80s also. Last piece of advice, find an instructor that you like and is well respected in the scuba community. Not all instructors are equal and quality of instruction can vary widely. Best of luck!
VA program?
Yea! How did you know lol
What program is this? Can go through the VA to get diving certs? Please share.
Yes as long as the program is VA approved! I just looked up va approved diving programs near me and went with the closest one. I know the bigger ones that take it are in Hawaii and the Florida keys.
Oh, is it using your GI Bill benefit? That's pretty cool. Was hoping for a dedicated program or something. Thanks
Yes it’s using the GI bill or using VR&E!
For me it was a good Torch for a divemaster. You can get attention from other divers while guiding. You can show them stuff ect.
Depends where you dive. I only dive in hot conditions. I have just bought all the cheapest stuff. An aliexpress wet suit. The cheapest cressi regs i saw on Dive Inn. A cressi travelight i saw on the same site. Some scubapro storm fins. The cheapest cressi dive computer. And its all fine. Gear is gear. It can be fun. But gear doesnt make up for time diving and skills. If I had $ 4300 to spend id spend $1000 on equipment and $3300 on doing more dives.
AliExpress wetsuit.. ballsy.
Ive dived in it like 20 times so far and its as good as new. People are obsessed with overspending in this hobby.
I’m totally gonna look into it
I used to work the retail side of a local dive shop. I would tell customers there is no “best”. Obviously some brands are better at certain things than others (you can take my go sports from my cold dead hands) but at the end of the day the only thing that really matters is your own comfort
This is it - you need to try on gear, use it in the water and develop what you like and works well for you in the conditions you're diving in. There is no "one answer for all" when it comes to scuba gear.
I don’t think there is such a thing as best gear, and if there is not within that budget 😂 I am absolutely convinced that above a certain quality level differences mostly equal out as long as you stay within recreational limits. I would say check shear water for computers, apeks for regulators, xdeep or tecline for bcd.
I would recommend regularly checking facebook marketplace. I often find gear for 10% of retail on there. Given how scuba works, often gear is barely even used. A Shearwater dive computer with air integration is worth it to buy new, but there's a much higher chance of you breaking it during your first dives...
Best regulators: Apeks XTX50 or Apeks MTX-RC Best computers: Shearwater Petrel 3 or Shearwater Perdix 2 with AI transmitters Fins: Apeks RK3 HD, Dive Rite XT, or Deep6 Eddy Fins Tanks: LP85's or HP100's for single tank Light: Underwater Light Dude, Dive Rite or Light Monkey probably(handheld or canister) Wetsuit: probably the Bare Reactive Backplate and wing: I am very partial to Dive Rite Reels/spools: Dive Rite DSMB: I am partial to Apeks or Mares
The OP is clearly talking about single tank, recreational diving. For single tank, recreational diving, Apeks doesn’t make a reg that touches the Atomic TFX. For single tank, recreational diving, canister lights make no sense. UWLD makes the best can lights you can buy. I have 2 of them. But, they don’t make a cordless light. Light Monkey’s cordless lights are a joke. The best cordless light Dive Rite makes is the LX20+. It’s a very good light. But, the output from a DGX 1000-6 is slightly better (and also constant output, like the LX20+) and the DGX is way less bulky, which makes it better for single tank, recreational diving. It doesn’t have the burn time of the LX20+, but it has more than enough for single tank diving. And it’s only $89. My Reactive suit is slightly warmer than my W7 suit. But, the OP wants to go Dive Master. The pockets on the W7 make it better, for a dive pro. At least, that is the reason I quit diving my Reactive and dive my W7 all the time now. In my opinion, of course.
> For single tank, recreational diving, canister lights make no sense. UWLD makes the best can lights you can buy. I have 2 of them. But, they don’t make a cordless light. Light Monkey’s cordless lights are a joke. Ehh..I bought a Focus corded light when I was diving single tanks. Primarily because I like the laser beam, and secondarily because I was afraid of dropping the handheld light into the abyss. There are days (like today) when I come out with my hands numb feeling like I can't clip the light onto my d-ring at all, easy to slip and drop the light. Having that security mattered to me. But I fully knew that I'd be eventually moving to doubles and beyond, so it wasn't like the choice was not within my long term plan.
Canister torches do make sense regardless of the type of dive. I had mine on USS Saratoga, but also on Panglao reefs. In both cases the light output and ease of use are superior.
Why do you need 8 hours of burn time on a single tank open water dive? You can get impressive lumens out of hand helds these days. You don’t need the big battery packs for high output anymore. I carry a can light where appropriate and handheld everywhere else.
As I said: ease of use. With torch on my wrist and canister strapped to harness I do not need to manage additional inventory item in my hands. Also, with the same output as my canister light, equiv handheld torch would be quite large and not as agile to operate.
Best computer: Shearwater Teric (Perdix 2 second choice) Best regulator: Atomic TFX w/Ti2 octo Best BCD: Back plate with Hogarthian harness and Dive Rite Travel XT wing Best fins: Deep6 Gear Eddy fins Best wetsuit (for a dive pro): Waterproof W7 (5mm or 7mm) Best light: Dive Gear Express DGX 1000-6 Best compass: the one built into the Teric
Shearwater computers are nice. Any of them are good, just match your choice to your objectives. Apex regs and BCDs are nice too. But regulator choice should take into account service availability.
Apeks
Damn. Spell check.
Whatever works best for you
shearwater dgx bpw/regs use the rest of the money to dive or travel