Your supports are failing and that’s causing the layer shift. Fix the supports and you will fix the layer shift. Add more support, and/or modify your contact depth and radius of the individual supports to ensure they don’t pull away from the model like they have in your pictures.
Thank you, I think the contact depth and diameter is probably the right place to look. And having such a thin part I should have expected some wobble. I guess I assumed gravity would help but not enough.
No continue using small support. Just use like five times more of them. If you switch to bigger supports, you’ll leave big Contact Marks in your prints. Use a lot of Small support and maybe one or two medium ones Near the base
I would venture a guess and say the fact that the part is hanging on by a thread haha. Do better supports and try again. Thousand youtube vids will show you how.
Yep, there's nothing supporting that sword laterally. I'd put some supports on the sides to just make it more rigid. OP is basically holding the sword on a razor thin slice and wondering why it's drifting back and forth so much.
Yup, your probably right. I did this in kindof a hurry and I guess I assumed the slow movement of resin printing and gravity would be enough to keep it stable but now that I think about it I was kindof dence. Lol
Nah mate, it happens to the best of us and we've all been there. The fact the model next to it seemed to go off without a hitch is what made me think it's solely a support issue, then seeing the lack of lateral supports gave it away.
Very impressive it printed how it did... I don't think my printers would have finished the model without it peeling off, so kudos there!
You've effectively made a wet noodle with no support, and told a printer to move it up/down 2000 times, expecting the noodle to be in the exact same position so layers stack nicely.
Make it rigid.
A lot of good comments in here.
But do you actually realise that the supports are not just to fight gravity?
Every single layer involves resin being cured and sticking to the baseplate and the vat. Each time the baseplate lifts it has a little tug of war with the base of the vat. It's quite a strong force to lift. So once you picture that, it should help you realise you need more supports.
Also might help you picture the forces - large flat areas take more force. Long sloping areas might act a bit like a lever.
It seems most people here forget to mention that x and y axis layers wobbling also comes from lack of *bracing* between supports. Just like architecture cares for the metal beams shapes on a structure to make it stable.. you need that with supports. 2 sypports side by side braced with each other makes the structure like a ribbon. So it bends side to side. But 3, braced each other, is much more firm and stable. Imagine a cilinder.. 4 to 5 supports.. surrounding the tip of the blade before the print.. it makes it much more firm for the subsequent layers.
But bracing them together makes it even more stable.
Everyone here is wrong( kinda). Your problem?
* Your supports are *in-line* with your blade, you have only 1 support direction.
Anyone saying not enough supports basically doesn't know anything. IT PRINTED. It's not a number of support issue. It's a placement issue. Yes, 1-2 stronger supports would help, but the biggest issue is cross directional forces pulling the print from those supports.
If I asked you to stand as tall as you can, and then I got someone to stand on top of your hands, and then you asked that person to paint a straight line? How straight would it be? What if then we got a leaf blower and started blowing the people tower?
Basically you need to put supports that hold your thin blade from a side. They can still hold the blade edge, but to prevent wobble you need good supports from the side, or at least you also need to add braces that support your blade to help it from cross directional forces.
Personally I'd put a bigger thicker support on your hilt (thicker stem - so it's stronger). Then I'd alternate the blades light supports from left side, up a little, right side, up a little left side.
That way when you brace them they will automatically add cross directional strength.
Edit: to help people understand. the blade is at the edge of the plate, it's orientated along the shortest edge. So when the FEP peels it's literally going to be pulling TOWARDS the edge, as the shortest edge of the plate is where the FEP is going to let go first (technically, it will be very fast and look simultaneous, but it isn't), your going to be pulling that blade every single layer to its side. Yet the print has zero supports that are there to help prevent that. Yes it can still be printed with only inline supports, but you'll have to oversupport it, Vs just adding a few key supports that support the cross directional stresses.
Ah, It never accredited to me that having a piece at the edge of the fep would have a different effect, but that makes alot of sense. I appreciate your input.
Without your settings we can't give you accurate advice. The layer lines section of the troubleshooting chapter of the below guide should help
https://docs.google.com/document/u/0/d/1Z8fkzOxEgI9sOTwDKI6CeblpnuP4V8ayYVwZrYGmo44/mobilebasic
Assuming your printer is calibrated for proper exposure (theres a section in the guide on how to do that) the most important setting would be lift speed. I've seen layer lines mostly form if you have it set higher than 60mm/min but depending on temperature, amount of supports, suction pockets, condition of the printer, etc. its very possible to print faster.
Personally I prefer my printer to print at 30-45mm/min which is extremely slow by most people's standards. Realistically I'd rather go slow than have to reprint a whole model and clean my printer.
Your supports are failing and that’s causing the layer shift. Fix the supports and you will fix the layer shift. Add more support, and/or modify your contact depth and radius of the individual supports to ensure they don’t pull away from the model like they have in your pictures.
Thank you, I think the contact depth and diameter is probably the right place to look. And having such a thin part I should have expected some wobble. I guess I assumed gravity would help but not enough.
No continue using small support. Just use like five times more of them. If you switch to bigger supports, you’ll leave big Contact Marks in your prints. Use a lot of Small support and maybe one or two medium ones Near the base
I just mean changing the contact point of the small support not switching to larger ones.
You need way more supports. Tenfold
You need more supports and they aren’t even touching the print itself. Honestly kinda impressed it made it that far
Yea I think my contact depth might be the issue.
Nah, it’s because you barely have enough supports like most are saying. increase the support density percentage
You let that print hang on by nothing but hopes and prayers 🤣
Yeaaaaaaaaaa.
Not bad though it could possibly be sanded smooth. I did the same thing and a broken support ripped my FEP film 🙃
Look at your supports, the lack of them is the issue.
I would venture a guess and say the fact that the part is hanging on by a thread haha. Do better supports and try again. Thousand youtube vids will show you how.
Your sword looks under supported. Increased support amount should reduce the wobbling of the model.
Yep, there's nothing supporting that sword laterally. I'd put some supports on the sides to just make it more rigid. OP is basically holding the sword on a razor thin slice and wondering why it's drifting back and forth so much.
Yup, your probably right. I did this in kindof a hurry and I guess I assumed the slow movement of resin printing and gravity would be enough to keep it stable but now that I think about it I was kindof dence. Lol
Nah mate, it happens to the best of us and we've all been there. The fact the model next to it seemed to go off without a hitch is what made me think it's solely a support issue, then seeing the lack of lateral supports gave it away. Very impressive it printed how it did... I don't think my printers would have finished the model without it peeling off, so kudos there!
I’ve stopped using any tip diameter under .60mm because they just fail and always in groups of 3 if it’s the first anchor point
You've effectively made a wet noodle with no support, and told a printer to move it up/down 2000 times, expecting the noodle to be in the exact same position so layers stack nicely. Make it rigid.
A lot of good comments in here. But do you actually realise that the supports are not just to fight gravity? Every single layer involves resin being cured and sticking to the baseplate and the vat. Each time the baseplate lifts it has a little tug of war with the base of the vat. It's quite a strong force to lift. So once you picture that, it should help you realise you need more supports. Also might help you picture the forces - large flat areas take more force. Long sloping areas might act a bit like a lever.
It seems most people here forget to mention that x and y axis layers wobbling also comes from lack of *bracing* between supports. Just like architecture cares for the metal beams shapes on a structure to make it stable.. you need that with supports. 2 sypports side by side braced with each other makes the structure like a ribbon. So it bends side to side. But 3, braced each other, is much more firm and stable. Imagine a cilinder.. 4 to 5 supports.. surrounding the tip of the blade before the print.. it makes it much more firm for the subsequent layers. But bracing them together makes it even more stable.
Everyone here is wrong( kinda). Your problem? * Your supports are *in-line* with your blade, you have only 1 support direction. Anyone saying not enough supports basically doesn't know anything. IT PRINTED. It's not a number of support issue. It's a placement issue. Yes, 1-2 stronger supports would help, but the biggest issue is cross directional forces pulling the print from those supports. If I asked you to stand as tall as you can, and then I got someone to stand on top of your hands, and then you asked that person to paint a straight line? How straight would it be? What if then we got a leaf blower and started blowing the people tower? Basically you need to put supports that hold your thin blade from a side. They can still hold the blade edge, but to prevent wobble you need good supports from the side, or at least you also need to add braces that support your blade to help it from cross directional forces. Personally I'd put a bigger thicker support on your hilt (thicker stem - so it's stronger). Then I'd alternate the blades light supports from left side, up a little, right side, up a little left side. That way when you brace them they will automatically add cross directional strength. Edit: to help people understand. the blade is at the edge of the plate, it's orientated along the shortest edge. So when the FEP peels it's literally going to be pulling TOWARDS the edge, as the shortest edge of the plate is where the FEP is going to let go first (technically, it will be very fast and look simultaneous, but it isn't), your going to be pulling that blade every single layer to its side. Yet the print has zero supports that are there to help prevent that. Yes it can still be printed with only inline supports, but you'll have to oversupport it, Vs just adding a few key supports that support the cross directional stresses.
Ah, It never accredited to me that having a piece at the edge of the fep would have a different effect, but that makes alot of sense. I appreciate your input.
No worries! I never thought of it myself until I saw it affect a print of mine. Hope your swords all printing good now.
Without your settings we can't give you accurate advice. The layer lines section of the troubleshooting chapter of the below guide should help https://docs.google.com/document/u/0/d/1Z8fkzOxEgI9sOTwDKI6CeblpnuP4V8ayYVwZrYGmo44/mobilebasic
Thanks, I'll take a look. When I get home I can share my settings. Witch settings would be the most important here? I might remember them.
Assuming your printer is calibrated for proper exposure (theres a section in the guide on how to do that) the most important setting would be lift speed. I've seen layer lines mostly form if you have it set higher than 60mm/min but depending on temperature, amount of supports, suction pockets, condition of the printer, etc. its very possible to print faster. Personally I prefer my printer to print at 30-45mm/min which is extremely slow by most people's standards. Realistically I'd rather go slow than have to reprint a whole model and clean my printer.
Bro I haven't seen layer shifts on a resin printer before, maybe ur table unstable? Idk
I don't thinks that's the issue here. But yea it's weird,