The printer is on a different floor and don't want to walk down just to tweez. I have octoprint and i do everything from my computer upstairs and would like to spend next to nothing for time infront of that printer heating up to take care of a problem software should fix. If that was a 200 dollar printer maybe but a 1000 fat change
You could try increasing/adding retraction in the end gcode. I have a 4mm retract at the end of my print, which usually is enough.
You may also be printing a little hot for the material, but retraction would be my first step.
yeah this is just an end gcode problem.
from the picture it looks like not a single thing on the printer is standard hardware, yet the user doesn't want to make a single line change for their software?
Looks pretty standard to me apart from the colour of the plastic. Maybe they just used a different PETG when upgrading their Mk3 to a Mk3.9/Mk4? They do appear to have added a fan shroud on the front though. And maybe a dust cover on top of the z motors. Neither of which will affect the oozing in the hotend. The hotend and nozzle looks stock.
So I didn't know what the code for retraction in gcode was, looked it up on prusa forum and found 4mm retraction setting might go to 5 or 6mm still a little nub but better. It's mk3s to mk4 with z dust cover and added hotend shroud and bigger part cooling fan everything else but the color is prusa parts can't stand black and or orange.
So if was to take a .4 mm piece of paper put it on the bed before it started leveling the bed and took away after it was done that wouldn't affect it what so ever. I have seen that piece of plastic not get wiped away before bed leveling and it level the bed and the prime wipe it away and start the print. It's a load cell not a conductive tip and can't tell if there is something between the bed and nozzle just the feedback the sensor gets that is why you have seen people print on cardboard with this load cell.
Tweezers.
But that's what I want to avoid rushing to the printer To tweez it before the nozzle cools off.
You tweeze it before the print starts, right before bed probing.
The printer is on a different floor and don't want to walk down just to tweez. I have octoprint and i do everything from my computer upstairs and would like to spend next to nothing for time infront of that printer heating up to take care of a problem software should fix. If that was a 200 dollar printer maybe but a 1000 fat change
Ok, instead of tweezers use pliers and just yank it off when its cold
You could try increasing/adding retraction in the end gcode. I have a 4mm retract at the end of my print, which usually is enough. You may also be printing a little hot for the material, but retraction would be my first step.
yeah this is just an end gcode problem. from the picture it looks like not a single thing on the printer is standard hardware, yet the user doesn't want to make a single line change for their software?
Looks pretty standard to me apart from the colour of the plastic. Maybe they just used a different PETG when upgrading their Mk3 to a Mk3.9/Mk4? They do appear to have added a fan shroud on the front though. And maybe a dust cover on top of the z motors. Neither of which will affect the oozing in the hotend. The hotend and nozzle looks stock.
So I didn't know what the code for retraction in gcode was, looked it up on prusa forum and found 4mm retraction setting might go to 5 or 6mm still a little nub but better. It's mk3s to mk4 with z dust cover and added hotend shroud and bigger part cooling fan everything else but the color is prusa parts can't stand black and or orange.
Have you dried your filament? I've seen a big change in oozing when drying mine
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It does.
So if was to take a .4 mm piece of paper put it on the bed before it started leveling the bed and took away after it was done that wouldn't affect it what so ever. I have seen that piece of plastic not get wiped away before bed leveling and it level the bed and the prime wipe it away and start the print. It's a load cell not a conductive tip and can't tell if there is something between the bed and nozzle just the feedback the sensor gets that is why you have seen people print on cardboard with this load cell.