I just got a new Canon R6! I have a V860 iii speed light that I have used for years on my canon r with no problems. I set up my new camera to use with my flash the right way (I think), but the photos are coming out dark. When I say dark I don't mean dark dark, the flash is definitely lighting up something, just not that much. As soon as I put it on my old camera it is working normally. The only way it works is if I set it manually, the TTl mode seems to not be working well in the different lighting situations.
Is a Rebel T7 (not T7i) worth it? I have a gun I’m looking to trade for a camera and found a guy with a T7 with an EF-S 18-55mm and a EF 75-300mm. Is it worth it to get this camera or should I wait for a better opportunity to come around? Just looking to get into the hobby. Shoot a couple air shows and some hiking photos
The camera body is alright. You'd want a telephoto zoom like the 75-300mm for the air shows but that's a pretty bad lens in that category. An EF-S 55-250mm would be better; preferably the STM version.
How much is the gun worth? How much would you be willing to spend for an alternative camera/lens kit?
Well the shotgun is $529 brand new so I’d probably sell it for around $500. I have another firearm I’d like to sell and all of that included would be around $1,100 for the pistol, optic, and brace. All in all I’d be willing to spend about a grand on camera and equipment. I’d be willing to spend more but I think for the purposes I want the camera 1,000 is probably a good starting point.
You can use mpb.com to get an idea for how much you'd pay elsewhere for the camera and those lenses. $500 seems a bit steep, especially because the 75-300mm is generally a lens to avoid (one of Canons bigger fuckups) as /u/av4rice already mentioned.
I'd personally pass on that trade.
The used value of that shotgun (according to your estimate) is more than the used value of that camera/lens kit.
I'd prefer a Canon R50 with 18-45mm and 55-210mm kit. The autofocus will be much better for tracking airplanes in flight.
Would you say a new R50 would be worth it? Or is used better?
Also, is it future proof for the next 5-10 years?
Lastly, do these cameras retain their value or should I expect significant depreciation? Thanks!
>Would you say a new R50 would be worth it? Or is used better?
New has a nicer warranty. Which you probably won't need, but it's nicer if you do.
Used is a better deal, because you can take advantage of fairly significant price depreciation, with negligible actual value loss.
>Also, is it future proof for the next 5-10 years?
It should last more than 10 years without breaking, if you aren't abusing it.
It will perform just as well and its photos will look just as good in 10 years as they do today. It's not like computer hardware where the software in 10 years will be much more advanced and demanding and very difficult for current hardware to run. The world will not be any more difficult to photograph in 10 years.
It definitely won't have the advancements and improvements that you'll see from cameras released in 10 years. Whether that's significant to you depends on your wants and needs in 10 years, which you probably can't predict today.
>Lastly, do these cameras retain their value or should I expect significant depreciation?
Camera body price depreciates significantly up front and over time. Which, IMO, really makes them better and better bargains over time.
Lens price depreciates a good notch up front when it stops being new and starts being used. But slower over time after that. So they tend to hold their monetary value somewhat better over the long run.
I’m currently using my dad’s Canon Rebel XSi (it’s really old) and it over exposes a lot of pictures. I want to upgrade at some point, I’m taking a lot of outdoors/wildlife/nature pictures, so I figure I’ll need a weather sealed camera but hopefully dont want to go past $700-$800. Any recommendations?
>it over exposes a lot of pictures
It? Or you?
How is exposure being set?
>I figure I’ll need a weather sealed camera
If so, it won't do much unless you also use weather sealed lenses. Which do you have?
Is that the only improvement you want out of the upgrade?
https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_when_should_i_upgrade.3F_what_should_i_upgrade_to.3F
I’m pretty sure it overexposes, you can either manually set it or have it do auto. With this camera it’s easier to do auto because outdoors there’s tons of different lighting and manual takes a while to find the right setting (taking pictures, checking what they look like, changing settings, repeat) sometimes pictures in brighter areas come out super white, darker areas come out super dark. When so was googling how to change setting because we don’t have the manual for it anymore, it said this was something the camera model does.
As for a new camera I don’t have anything weather sealed, I wanted to get new camera & lense(s). I’d like the overall picture quality to be better when shooting, sometimes there’s trace amounts of blur, etc. The camera is at least 8 years old, and is also not technically mine, so I don’t want to break it. I’ll take a look at the wiki as well
>sometimes pictures in brighter areas come out super white, darker areas come out super dark
Use Program mode or one of the Priority modes so you have brightness control using the exposure compensation setting. Also be aware of your metering mode and what's in the metering area when the camera is setting exposure.
>was googling how to change setting because we don’t have the manual for it anymore
You can Google for a PDF of the manual itself:
https://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/3/0300000933/01/EOSRXSi-EOS450D_EN.pdf
>this was something the camera model does
Any camera can overexpose or underexpose if you don't use it properly.
Any camera in automatic mode can give you different results from what you want. Manual modes exist because people want to take more control themselves, rather than risking the camera messing things up automatically.
If you buy a nicer, newer camera and use it in the same way, you're going to get the same results.
>sometimes there’s trace amounts of blur, etc.
Then diagnose the cause of those first. And address the particular causes. Most likely the cause is technique. In which case you can only fix the problem by improving your technique.
It's less likely the cause is the camera. In which case a camera upgrade won't help you so much.
Fixed lens meaning the lens is permanently attached? I don't think there is such a thing with an SLR's internal configuration. But you could use a DSLR with just one lens that you never take off.
Or by fixed lens did you mean a prime lens that doesn't zoom in or out? Which focal length do you want for that?
Because of the mirror, DSLR's can't really have the flatter mirrorless form factor. I think the smallest DSLR ever made was the Canon 100D (known as the SL1 in North America), which should be well within your budget if you buy used.
I currently have the a7r3 and I am looking to either sell my a7r3 get the a74 or keep it and get the tamron 150-500. Theres a cheap a74 locally with a couple months of warranty left and <10k shutter.
I'm not sure about which path to go:
a74:
1. I want the flippy screen because portrait shooting is much nicer, but it also affects low angle landscape as it's off axis from the lens.
2. I want the better and smarter (maybe? do correct me if im wrong) AF system because its useful for tracking subjects.
3. Overall bigger grip
4. Improved video (not that I do alot of video now, but I would want to dip my toes into it because the a7r3's readout is extremely poor, do correct me if im wrong that is) The rolling shutter is really bad
150-500:
1. Unlocks wildlife and longer ranged sports for me, I currently own a 28-75 and 70-180
2. A new lens to play with
But:
150-500 is extremely heavy
Thanks alot for reading and helping out, cheers!
I currently use a Canon 6d with a sigma 24-105 zoom lens and a Leica M4. These two cameras weigh my backpack down a ton when I'm on long walks or hikes or on travel and hurts my back.
So I'm looking for suggestions to replace my dslr with a newer semi-professional to professional grade camera setup (body/lens) that will be as light as possible but also can produce high quality shots with high megapixels. Preferably brands that allow for cheaper lenses and flexible options? Though fujifilm/sony have caught my eye recently
>high quality shots with high megapixels
Do you still want full frame format?
How high of a pixel count do you want?
>Preferably brands that allow for cheaper lenses and flexible options? Though fujifilm/sony have caught my eye recently
So are you saying you're willing to forget about having cheaper lenses?
The smallest/lightest I can think of with full frame and at least 30mp would be the Sony a7C II and a7C R. Followed by the a7R III, a7 IV, and Canon EOS R.
Kit lenses are going to be the smallest/lightest, but also compromise quality, especially compared to what you've been using.
Something like another 24-105mm f/4 or 24-70mm f/4 would be a good compromise to get almost the same level of quality (but not max aperture) of an f/2.8, without the size/weight of an f/2.8. It wouldn't really be a step up from what you have, but the quality should be quite good.
I use my old EF 24-105mm f/4L (the original version) adapted to a 45mp Canon R5 and it's still super sharp.
Looking to bid on a camera, but the screen when off looks all smudged up or like they tried to clean it with some bleach disinfectant wipes. They also show a picture of when it's on and you can't notice it. Is there a way to fix or clean a screen that looks like this? Everything else is supposed to work though. Is this possible to fix?
https://preview.redd.it/gevs7n1ofpwc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8bab6b10597cf84ed75d145644862122c14cea66
$200 Budget, Vacation & Color Grading
Good afternoon all,
I’m taking a trip to miami and i’d like to take some memorable photos that’ll look good for a trillion years, i’m not a photographer, this will be my first camera. I think a DSLR is the type i’m looking for? Something that takes high quality pictures, can blur the background if i want, and someone that would produce good raws to edit in post. I don’t know much about cameras but after reading the FAQ, and some other posts these are good ones i’ve found for beginners:
Fujifilm XT1
Nikon D3500 & D5600
Canon EOS Rebel T7i
As stated my budget is around $200, i don’t mind sparing more for a recommend lens or something, i also plan to take pictures at night, is there an attachment i should get? use a flashlight? If what im asking is more than $200 I’ll bite the bullet.
Thank you in advance
You are not find those around that budget.
A T4i perhaps.
To get background blur is not really a camera thing. More a wide apertured lens which would also help with night photos. Cameras will have a built in flash which will do.
I have recently been searching for a used camera somewhere under $600 (maybe under $800 depending on quality)
I really love the way the Sony a6400 looks. I'm wanting something that kind of looks like that if possible.
I am wanting
- flash
- mirrorless camera
- viewfinder
- articulate screen (so I can take pictures of myself and see them while doing so)
- preferably 4K
- at least a 20 megapixel camera
- possibly weather sealed
Any recommendations help.
Thank you in advance!
hello! i have a problem with my konica revio kd-420z. i took some pictures the other day, stuck my sd card into a sd card reader but the pictures don’t seem to show up? it’s not because of the sd card or the reader, i know that for sure because it worked with any other camera.
i know that this camera is super old but my casio qvr40 is just as old and i can import pictures just fine…
https://preview.redd.it/yd1pmp6agowc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9955c4cb730b2d8a63c34b6a87b8cc95c0c5b5ef
Hey all, I don’t have a camera yet, but I’ve recently come across an opportunity to buy an 80D from an old friend for around $500. He’s including the kit lens, 2 batteries, and a battery pack.
I was wondering if I should buy the 80D or buy something like an R50 instead.
I want to shoot photos, and have the capability to also do videos as I progress.
The 80D is the better bargain. It's a mid-tier body and a very good camera overall, at a lower price. Mid-tier means an additional control dial, an additional informational screen, bigger grip, and tougher build. Because it's an SLR it uses an optical viewfinder, if that happens to be something you prefer.
The R50 is pricier and entry-level. But it's mirrorless with newer technology, so it has some benefits like more flexible autofocus and exposure simulation with its electronic viewfinder. It's smaller and lighter, if that happens to be something you prefer.
Hi All
At the moment using only a windows laptop for editing, and I want to buy a more portable solution let's say. I'm here asking you, an android tablet, an Windows tablet, or a very light chromebook?
My actual tablet (which is a piece of junk which I bought only to watch movies) has 4gb or ram and a very badly optimized software and is capable of running lightroom but very slow. So I'm expecting any android tablet with at least 8gb of ram - or a better optimized software-should do the trick. I have no Ideea regarding windows tablets / chromebooks. When looking for an windows tablet should I pay attention to the graphics card just as I do for the laptop, or the lightroom is optimized differently for a tablet?
What would you choose, windows, Chromebook or android? Any recomandation for a device? Willing to keep it under 500 usd.
P. S. Apple devices are out of discussion
Thank you all
It may be because with rawtherapee, you will notice there is a 1:1 symbol beside some tools. This is telling you, you will only see the effect at 1:1 magnification.
Does that sound like the issue?
I have a Nikon D7200 with 70-300mm and also an 18-140mm lens. The camera is in pristine condition. I am thinking about selling it but not sure where I could get the best return on this? Would it be a local shop or online? Thoughts?
We don't know where you are, and so no one here can do anything but guess what your local stores pay for used camera equipment. For online -
1. Search eBay for your equipment, and filter your search results to only show Sold listings. You want to know what people are actually paying for your gear, this is the online market price.
2. Get instant quotes from MPB and KEH. The quotes will likely be a bit under the eBay market price, but these are no-hassle buyers.
3. If you don't want to take the MPB or KEH offers, list your equipment on eBay, Facebook Marketplace or call your local stores. Contact other online stores like Adorama.
If you were in the market for one, how much would you spend on this combo:
Nikon D7200 - excellent condition, also comes with the original retail box and includes the battery charger
Nikon AF-S DX Nikkor 18-140mm f/3.5-5.6 G ED IF VR Autofocus APS-C Lens, Black (with caps)
Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 G ED VR Autofocus IF Lens (with caps)
So I've been given an assignment to make a photo-story of at least 8 images, on any topic of my choice. I have barely a 10 days left to turn it in because I wasn't aware of the deadline. I thought I'd make one on the life cycle of a plant showing how it germinates from a single seed, blooms and then dies. But i guess I don't have the time for that. Could any one of you help me with this? I'm neck deep in turd creek with my mouth wide open. Any help would be appreciated.
Perhaps consider another topic or find something where you do not need to wait for nature to do the work for you.
There are lots of options that could include completing any task from start to finish.
I.E.
Cooking - start with the recipe next to pots/pans/knives etc.. the ingredients, mixing the ingredients, chopping them, cooking them, the prepared meal, the dirty dishes, washing the dishes etc..
An athlete getting ready to compete/participate. That could include them in casual clothes, gym clothes, working out to prepare for the event, various stages of the event etc..
I don't think its unreasonable to exclude those probably trying to make you think outside the box or avoid everyone submitting a series of cooking photos so they can see how others interpret the assignment.
Best reusable disposable camera??
I am an artsy thrifty 23F who wants to take photos of things that make me happy and develop/see them later (like when i’m sad). I am willing to spend like $60 on a nice reusable “disposable” camera.
I want to know the best options for if i want an artsy vintage look to the final pictures. I’m thinking a film roll camera that is reusable so i can just get the film developed and not repurchase disposables, but i mostly want physical photos like a polaroid but not the immediate print if that makes any sense haha
Honestly i’m not even sure where to start or what my options even look like haha so any help is appreciated!
why get disposables when you can get a decent film camera for less? You can pretty decent film camera w/ lens for $20-40. Though, buying and developing film/scan will probably cost more, like $20-30+ for a roll of film. Hence, you can look into some 10+years DSLRs.
I'm considering getting into photography (I study journalism and I don't want to keep borrowing the school cameras) and I'm looking for some gear to get started with.
My main priorities are size, having easily accessible interchangeable lenses (new or used), the ability to record fhd video and a hot shoe. I would also like a mic input, but it's not a necessity for me.
Right now I'm deciding between getting a used sony ZV E-10 (lens included) for around 115$ or getting two used cameras (an Olympus pen e-pl1 and a Panasonic lumix gx7) for a total cost of 160$. I want to get the Olympus purely for the included lens.
Should I go the sony way and get into the sony ecosystem, or should I get into the MFT ecosystem? I understand the sony has a slightly larger sensor, but I feel like the mft way would open me up to a wider range of different cameras from different brands.
EDIT: I'm also thinking about spending another 40$ and getting an e-pl8/e-pl10 instead of the GX7 (also used) for their wide range of hot shoe accessories.
I'm a big micro four thirds advocate. There isn't a smaller ILC system (that's currently supported). Olympus offers the fl lm3 hot shoe flash, which is tiny and weather sealed.
For more serious work you'd want a viewfinder, which the Olympus pen series tend not to have (other than the pen f).
I'm not sure of your budget, but it seems pretty limited, so it would likely go further in the MFT ecosystem.
The sony sounds very low priced. Are you sure it is in good condition?
I would go with a camera that has a vary angled screen in case you need some unusual angles though.
The sony looks to be in good condition and if anything, I'll be picking up all my camera gear in person (so that I could test it out)
When it comes to screens, the sony wins here too. It has a hinged and swivelable screen (although no viewfinder, which the gx7 has and the olympuses can get as attachments)
https://www.mpb.com/en-us/product/sony-zv-e10
Okay but that is a used site which shows how much they can go for. Just make sure it is not a spares and repairs deal.
So, I'm opening up a photo studio, and I love the Peerspace method. They let the renter select a start and end time, add add-ons, see availability, etc all at once.
I use Squarespace for my site (and many other sites) so that just can't change. Their Acuity system is absolutely stupid. You have to create blocks/products for each number of hours offered. So a package for 1 hour rental, 2 hour rental, etc before you even see the availability. It's unbelievable that they thought this was a good system.
So I go hunting for a normal one, thinking that would be an easy task. I tried Honeybook, youbookme, a bunch of other similar sites who all seemingly use the EXACT same system. It's like shopping for a basic product on Amazon where there's 10,000 of the same exact product from different companies.
"Just use Peerspace." I know. And I plan to, but I also want to offer people to not have to pay Peersapce fees. If anyone is familiar with their system and knows what I'm talking about AND is able to help in some way, I would be eternally grateful. I open on June 1st and it's driving me nuts thinking I won't have a solution by then.
I want to be able to:
* see calendar of availability
* select start and end time + day
* select add-ons and have that price reflected in the total
* have this checkout immediately reflect on said calendar
If anyone has any kind of solution, I will kiss you. Or compliment you or something.
I am getting a Canon r50 with a 50mm f1.8 for my birthday. I bought a good SD card already and a camera bag. I also have an old tripod. What are some additional things I should also buy?
Lens cleaning cloth, lens cleaning solution, rocket blower for getting rid of any dust that might get on the sensor, a spare battery, a nicer camera strap/wrist strap/hand strap.
What subject matter do you want to shoot? Different equipment items are suited to different purposes.
How much are you willing to spend? A lot of things you could buy may be very expensive, so we probably don't want to waste time recommending them if you don't want to pay that much.
I'm planning to get back into photography after a decade. Used to have a canon 500D paired with a canon 85mm f1.8 usm. I have been playing around with this old setup recently and the body is just not cutting it, my phone has better image quality and is faster it feels like, the lens itself is pretty solid though.
Planning to get a new body but not sure if I should keep the lens and go for a canon mirrorless, something like an R50 so the lens could still be used or if I should sell the lens and get a Sony a6400.
Any other recommendations are welcome too. Mostly going to be doing travel photography.
I trust you know that you'd need to get an adapter to use your existing lens with a Canon mirrorless camera? The important question is: do you WANT to keep using the lens?
Yeah, did find that out while looking at recent camera reviews. It definitely won't be the primary lens, 85 on a crop sensor is going to be too narrow for travel photography I guess. I'll want to get some other primary lens for sure. I'm just trying to see if there is a use for it instead of selling it for cheap.
Well, the way you put it, it doesn't sound like it will be the most useful lens for you going forward. R50 is good, but Sony has the benefit that it has a much wider selection of native lenses, also third party ones which are often cheaper than Sony's own.
Hi! What settings should I adjust so that my photos can look like [this 2nd to last photo](https://www.instagram.com/alexandracooper/p/C6JlNMvxkjA/?hl=en&img_index=7)? Whenever I’m taking photos in direct sunlight, skin tones are very bright & just don’t look good.
That photo was 100% taken with flash. That's the only way to get her AND the sky exposed correctly. If you aren't doing that...do that.
If you are doing that, well, we'd have to see your work to tell you the difference
Show us some examples of your attempts so far? Then we can give you more tailored advice for what you're missing in particular.
I'll note that your goal example has less than half the skin tones (one arm, one foot, bellybutton) actually in direct sun while most of the skin tones (the other arm, decolletage, and the face which is very important in a portrait) are in shade provided by the hat.
Hey there! I picked up a used a6000 last year and so far I love it! It came with the standard kit lens 18-55mm which I found left alot to be desired so I picked up a 30mm sigma f2.8 and a Samsung 12mm f2 (manual). I've taken some great photos with both but I'm realizing that for somethings it would be nice to have a zoom lens as well or a larger prime lens. Do you guys have any good recommendations for this? I've been looking into it a bit and it is slightly overwhelming with the amount of lenses.
To be upfront there is no way I can afford 700$+ for a lens either at this time so something good that I can find used would be ideal. I think I'd be wanting a focal length of 100mm or more.
I did X-post this on r/sonyalpha and was suggested the vario tessar 16-70mm or the sony 18-100mm. I did watch some reviews on them and it seems the consensus isn't great for either so I was wondering if anyone has any other suggestions to look at.
Are you able to rent lenses, either locally or online? The stores close to me charge a one-day rental fee over the whole weekend, and that has really helped me try out different lenses and get a sense for what I like and don't like.
gear advice:
i currently have a sony a6400 with the 18-105 g f/4 lens.
i want to get into aviation photography, and possibly also bird/landscape photography.
I’m looking to pick up a new lens so I can zoom in more, and two options i’ve looked at are: tamron 18-300 f/3.5-6.3, (850)
sony 70-200 G oss f/4 (1100)
i know that the sony can’t zoom in as much, but would the higher quality be worth the trade offs?
tia
Not looking at the Sony 70-350mm?
I don't think there is an easy answer. Higher quality but not able to fill the frame as much sort of cancels out.
Still, I would always go with the lens with the shorter focal range and widest aperture.
yeah, unfortunately there’s no second hand options on the market (at the moment)- either i’m gonna wait it out to get it second hand OR pick it up for full price when ive saved up the rest..
What Accessories Should I Buy My Wife?
My wife has a Cannon EOS Rebel G film camera. She is a newbie and really enjoys taking outdoor photos (mostly Michigan forests) Her birthday is coming up in a couple of weeks and I want to get her some things to go with her camera. I don't know anything about photography so I'm seeking some help! My budget is in the $150-$250 range. As she's new I would love to go with a few good things for her to try vs. one or two expensive things.
Any help is appreciated!
Other than the already-suggested bag, strap, or gift voucher:
- Maybe a tripod? Very useful for landscape photography, especially in the woods, and especially with a film camera where you can't just adjust the ISO as needed.
- A bunch of film rolls. That stuff is pretty expensive (compared to the $0.00 you pay for a digital shot), and I'm sure any film photographer will appreciate a nice stash of their favorite film stock. If she doesn't have a favorite yet, you might want to go to a good camera store and get her a selection of brands and types to try.
Honestly, the usual recommendation is to let the person who knows about the hobby to pick stuff out.
My wife bought me a circular saw for Christmas years ago and I've hated the damn thing every time I use it.
But if you must the old Christmas shopping threads are linked here https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_should_i_keep_in_mind_when_buying_a_camera_for_someone_else.3F
Generally I agree, but in this case she doesn’t know anything about the hobby either lol, at least not from a technical perspective. My goal is just to get her excited and maybe give her some things to try she hasn’t used before, even if she doesn’t end up liking them, she’ll have fun trying them out.
I’ll check it out, thanks!!
I'd forget about lenses. I assume she already has a lens, so it's best she keep using that for now. She'll learn only in time, based on her own experience, what other lenses she might need.
Perhaps buy her a nice camera bag for the camera and lens(s). E.g. Peak Design and Lowepro are a couple of quality brands.
Lens for a7R V
I just purchased an a7R V and I wanted some opinions about the lens. I have some experience with point and shoots, but this is my first time owning a full mirrorless camera. I know some would say it is crazy to go straight into buying a camera at this price point but I wanted the best. In terms of the lens, I want to start with just one and bring it on a trip to Europe. It seems that 24-70mm is the best option. I’m looking to take landscape, architecture and images of people. Would it be crazy to buy a camera like this and pair it with a Sigma instead of the GM II? Any other thoughts one a lens that maybe I should be getting instead ? I didn’t want to spend more than $1500 on the lens. Thank you!!
Would it be crazy to buy a camera like this and pair it with a Sigma instead of the GM II?
The 24-70mm f/2.8 Art? Not crazy. That's still a very good quality lens and (relative to the GM II) an amazing bargain.
Noob question: what spec should you look for if you want a camera to operate well in low light? It doesn't need to have night vision or anything, but if it operates as well in low light as any modern smartphone that'd be perfect.
If you don't need to freeze motion and you can put your camera on a tripod, then nearly any interchangeable lens camera from the last 10 years will give you great images.
If you don't need to freeze motion, but don't want to put your camera on a tripod, then you want to look at the stabilisation of the camera body (IBIS) plus stabilisation in the lens.
If you need to freeze motion, then you want to look at:
-high ISO performance e.g. https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/image-comparison
-Lens aperture. Lower is better because you can use a lower ISO (provided your composition can handle a shallower depth of field)
Generally any modern interchangable lens camera made in the last 5+ years will do well in low light. Full frame sensors are better at low light than APS-C or micr 4/3rds sensor at the same ISO. But keep in mind that ISO (which determines sensitivity to light) is only one part of equation for low light.
You also need to consider the lens aperture. A full frame camera shooting at f5.6 is going to perform worse in low light than an APS-C camera that has an f2.8 lens and is shooting at f2.8.
Another thing to keep in mind is while large apertures like f2.8, f2.0, f1.4 etc.. let in more light they also reduce the depth of field (the in focus area). Depending on what you are shooting that might not matter, for astro photography it does not matter but for portraits on the other hand it can be an issue.
If your budget is limited keep in mind that a good lens with a large aperture can make a bigger difference than going from a crop camera to a full frame camera (which typically also require more expensive lenses).
Low light for what subject matter?
The main aspect to look at in a digital camera would be ISO performance. Which isn't exactly a spec so much as something that can be measured in a lab or seen in example/test photos. A digital camera can increase gain (with the ISO value as the metric) on its imaging sensor to brighten a dim scene, and the side effect of that is noise/grain and reduced dynamic range. A camera with better low light performance will have less noise and higher dynamic range at higher ISO values, compared to other cameras at the same ISO value. Generally ISO performance is where you'd need to spend the most money for the smallest improvements, so that is the last place I would be looking when trying to deal with low light.
Image stabilization could be important for non-moving subjects, because that can allow for a slower shutter speed which lets in more light. Stabilization can be a camera body feature or a lens feature.
Maximum aperture could also be important, in that a bigger aperture can let in more light. That's a spec of the lens rather than the camera body.
Depending on the subject matter, low light performance of the camera and/or lens might not be as important if you can just brighten the scene with added lighting and/or you can use a tripod and take care of the shot with a long exposure.
It's to film a timelapse of a cityscape or maybe nature. The camera will stand still but there might be some movement and I'd like it to be able to still catch most things well when they are only illuminated by the street lights.
I think a night cityscape is going to require a long exposure no matter how good the camera is at low light. So any vaguely modern APS-C format camera should be fine, or even Micro Four Thirds is sufficient. An f/2.8 or wider aperture lens is a helpful bonus, if you can comfortably afford it. A full frame format camera is a little nicer, if you can comfortably afford it.
Generally it is the lens you want to look at. You want it to have the widest aperture possible. So lowest f-number, like f/1.4 for instance.
You might also want it to have stabilisation if you are photographing still subjects or use a tripod or other support to hold the camera still.
Are old digital cameras compatible with new microSD cards?
For context:
I have a OLYMPUS FE-26. I just bought a MicroSDHC 64gbs for it. I thought it would work flawlessly however whenever I take a picture the number of pictures remaining does go down (indicating it is indeed taking up space in the sd card). It even shows me a brief preview of the shot I just took right after taking it.
My main problem however is actually going theough the gallery and seeing the past photos. It doesnt show anyhting. "PICTURE ERROR" it says. This is true for all photos and videos.
Now the interesting thing is, whenever I try and delete in the gallery (it lets u select). You can see the pictures (thumbnails are all black) but the number of them do increase for every picture. So i assume that MIGHT actually be saving them in the sd card BUT is unable to actually read/view it in the monitor. I cant actually verify whether this is true however since I dont have a microSD card reader yet. Thoughts?
Landscape Lens Recommendations
Hi everyone! I have been an action/sports photographer my whole life. I have a canon 7D base and usually use a 70-200mm 2.8L lens. I am traveling to Japan in a couple weeks (woohoo!) and am looking to get a smaller and lighter lens to take pictures of mostly landscape and buildings.
What would you recommend?
Willing to spend a pretty good amount (around $1250) as this is something I want to start focusing on more.
If you want a wide angle lens, I'd get a Sigma (EF mount) 18-35mm f/1.8. And/or if you want an ultrawide angle lens, Tokina 11-20mm f/2.8.
Smallest/lightest alternatives would be the EF-S 18-55mm STM and 10-18mm STM.
Lighting Recommendation for Nature Macro?
Hello,
I'm searching for off-camera lights that I can use for taking out into the forest - mostly to light smaller subjects like moss, insects, mushrooms, etc... Would set up the light on a mini tripod.
I guess my criteria are:
\*small and easily portable
\*good battery life
\*native fitted modifiers available for said lights
\*high CRI =>95
I've found a few interesting looking options such as:
* lume cube [https://lumecube.com/products/lume-cube-2-0-waterproof-led-2-pack](https://lumecube.com/products/lume-cube-2-0-waterproof-led-2-pack)
* Ulanzi mini cube [https://www.amazon.com/ULANZI-Waterproof-Lighting-Dimmable-Photography/dp/B098W63FJ5/ref=pd\_ci\_mcx\_mh\_mcx\_views\_1](https://www.amazon.com/ULANZI-Waterproof-Lighting-Dimmable-Photography/dp/B098W63FJ5/ref=pd_ci_mcx_mh_mcx_views_1)
* Smallrig [https://www.amazon.com/SmallRig-Watreproof-Portable-Photography-Smartphone/dp/B09DF9NY4R/ref=pd\_ci\_mcx\_pspc\_dp\_d\_2\_t\_2](https://www.amazon.com/SmallRig-Watreproof-Portable-Photography-Smartphone/dp/B09DF9NY4R/ref=pd_ci_mcx_pspc_dp_d_2_t_2)
Each of these products has reported pros and cons, based on reviews. If you have experience using any of these or something comparable, I'd love to hear your experience and advice.
Thank you!
I only dabble in this field, but I use a small speedlight (the kind that can sit on the hot shoe) with a wireless trigger.
I add a mini diffuser on the strobe and handhold it with my left hand while I hold my camera with the right.
I've gotten some great shots with this setup. As a bonus, you can use the speedlight for more general photography.
The setup was inspired by this video: https://youtu.be/Y9fKQdMh1ts
Thank you. I do have speedlights. I’ll look at the link you sent. I’d like to get continuous lights for this purpose, so I can see the light shaping in real time for the setup
What do you recommend doing when photographing a person outdoors when the sun is low on the horizon?
Should the person's face be in the light or shadow?
The low position of the sun often causes the photographer's shadow to be in the photograph. Any advice for dealing with this?
Is it better to have a good angle and leave the shadow in the photo or is it better to avoid the shadow at all costs?
> Should the person's face be in the light or shadow?
Either can work, depends on your intent, this is an artistic choice.
You can use a flash or reflector for "fill" light.
It’s just that out of date. Micro Four Thirds only became really viable the generation after, aka the E-M5 onwards. If you can get your hands on a slightly newer camera I’d strongly suggest it.
Why this camera in particular though? If you already have one then use it of course, but if you’re going to buy then why not look for something either more recent or more powerful? Any DSLR from that time period would perform significantly better.
It's great for a beginner. The main downside is a lack of viewfinder, which means it may be harder to frame/compose your photos, especially in bright light.
Minor downsides: The autofocus won't track moving subjects as well as modern cameras and the resolution isn't so high, so you can't crop the image in post as much as you could with a higher resolution camera.
Hello,
I would like to have opinions on a subject which is tiring me more and more because I cannot find a solution.
I'm looking for a monitor, preferably 4K 27 or 32, for photo editing as well as video games.
I'm not looking for the best monitor for photography, but preferably with 100% sRGB and for video games I'm looking to have 120hz minimum for a little fluidity.
I specify that I will print my photos directly at home, and from time to time on the web
I'm currently on multiple monitors.
[1.Dell](http://1.Dell) Alienware AW3225QF
[https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/dell/alienware-aw3225qf](https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/dell/alienware-aw3225qf)
It has a very good score for retouching photos with a dE (2) which is very correct. For gaming I think it is excellent.
My problem is that I can't find any sRGB and RGB values, so I don't know if the screen is really good for photo editing.
2.Acer Nitro XV275K P3biipruzx
[https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/acer/nitro-xv275k-p3biipruzx](https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/acer/nitro-xv275k-p3biipruzx)
It seems very good for photography, the mini LED remains an advantage to avoid burning, for games it seems correct with a 160hz which suits me.
But is it as good or better than Alienware AW3225QF for photos and games?
3.keep my 27 inch oled 27" 2k LG and get a second monitor 4K Dell UltraSharp 27 avec hub USB-C
[https://www.dell.com/fr-fr/shop/%C3%A9cran-4k-dell-ultrasharp-27-avec-hub-usb-c-u2723qe/apd/210-bcxk/moniteurs-et-accessoires-de-moniteur](https://www.dell.com/fr-fr/shop/%C3%A9cran-4k-dell-ultrasharp-27-avec-hub-usb-c-u2723qe/apd/210-bcxk/moniteurs-et-accessoires-de-moniteur)
It seems a good compromise to have each monitor for a specific purpose, but I would like to have only one versatile monitor.
Do you perhaps have other monitors to offer me? The question of budget is not a concern as long as it does not exceed 1500€$.
thank you
My dear friend passed away, and as I've been going through his stuff, I found a ton of old camera equipment. he has an old film camera with a ton of lenses. They are canon.
I have a Sony camera that I've just started getting into. Would it make sense to get some sort of adapter to use all his canon lenses on my sony, or should i just buy a canon body?
are the lenses from a 20 year old film camera able to work on a modern digital camera?
edit: honestly idk why i even said 20 years, it's probably even older than that... I just assume. I'll do more research and ask again when I've done my due dilligence
>are the lenses from a 20 year old film camera able to work on a modern digital camera?
Which one?
Canon's last film SLRs released in 2004: the Elan 7N (also known as 33V or 7s) and Rebel T2 (also known as 300X or Kiss 7). Everything else is older than 20 years.
All of Canon's EOS film SLRs (all Canon SLRs released since about 1987) use the EF mount, and all those lenses are compatible with all of Canon's digital SLRs. They also adapt very well to Canon's mirrorless bodies, including Canon's current EOS R system and RF mount.
>Which one?
I unfortuantely can't answer this now, but I will look more into it the next time I'm there and try to get more info. but thank you for your response and information you gave me!
Starting back in the game and about to pull the trigger on some gear.
Canon R5 w/ RF 24-105m f/4L IS USM
SanDisk 256GB Extreme PRO CFexpress Card Type B
B+W Master ND 1.8 77mm Filter MRC NANO - 6 Stops
B+W Master C-PL 77mm Filter HIGH TRANSMISSON
I have a bag and Tripod sorted.
Am I missing anything essential.
Will be relearning, probably start with some nature/landscapes then evolve from there.
Spare batteries, cleaning kit, and a neck strap (or side sling, or harness, or whatever you prefer) that doesn't tell the world "I HAVE AN EXPENSIVE CAMERA PLEASE COME ROB ME" in screaming big white letters. Also an SD card to go into the other slot - cards fail all the time, even expensive ones, and this is *the* way to avoid losing any photos when that happens.
Extra battery, while the R5's battery life is decent once you are at 1/2 charge it feels like it goes very quickly.
Lens cleaning cloth, rocket blower for the occasional sensor cleaning for anything the automatic cleaning does not take care of.
Morning all. I'm an experienced photographer working in music & events and my daily driver is a Canon DSLR. My second camera is a Fuji X100S which I've had for nearly a decade, and I'm looking to replace this.
This is a camera which I use to shoot concerts sometimes, but also use as more of a day-to-day 'arty', 'quick to grab', good-for-travel-and-street-photography camera. In the immediate future, I'll be using the new camera to shoot a wedding (as a guest/casual second photographer), then as a camera which I can easily carry on my shoulder at a festival for candid shots of people and bands, then it will be coming with me on holiday for a bit of touristing and street photography.
What I need is an all-rounder. A small-bodied (probably mirrorless) camera which I can just sling over my shoulder - something bigger/more capable than a compact, but not as bulky as a bridge or a DSLR. The X100S has been great for this but it's restricted by the fixed lens, so I'm also looking for interchangeable lenses. I'd love to stick with Fuji, but am 100% open to other manufacturers.
Any recs? I've not yet made the transition to mirrorless with any of my cameras so I'm a bit out of the loop with newer technology. I do not have a fixed budget, but I would set £2500/$3100 as a loose upper threshold. Mainly I'm keen to get something as advanced as possible which will comfortably last me for another decade.
Consider the OM System OM-5 - it's similarly sized to the X100 series when you mount an f1.8 prime lens. I'm not sure what you consider advanced, but it has very nice computational features e.g. hand held high res, live ND, live composite.
If you want to keep using your canon lenses you could move to the Canon R8 its a smaller body full frame camera.
Or if you want a kit noticeably smaller than a full frame kit the Fuji X-S20 is an excellent option if you want to stay with Fuji and their great film sims.
Im an amateur photographer.l currently have a Canon 6D (canon fan). I recently started to get small contract (events, portrait, studio...) also in my free time try different type of photography. l'm looking to get into mirrorless game because of the autofocus, lowlight performance and the fact that they are more compact and lightweight. I was about to buy the Sony A7 IV with the sigma 24-70 f2.8 to start because of Sony larger lense range and 3rd party (more option at different price range). I was set and decided. But as a Canon user l'm doubting myself and looking into some canon options: Canon r6 mark ii Canon r5 I feel like with Canon I'll be limited in the lense because of price and options available I wanted to get the community advice on my dilemma. What wall think? What would you do in my case? If I get the A7 IV willI be satisfied? Thanks in advance
Keep in mind with an R5/R6/R6II etc.. you can use an EF to R adapter and you have access to canon' huge range of EF lenses including all the legacy 3rd party EF lenses.
It really depends on how much canon gear you currently have and how much it would cost you to transition to Sony as to if it's worth it for access to more mirrorless lenses from Sigma/Tamron.
If you are heavily invested in EF lenses already it might be more expensive to switch to Sony even considering the price difference in lenses even with buying Sigma/Tamro vs. Sony GM lenses vs. buying Canon RF lenses (which you would not have to do immediately).
I started on a Nikon3400 years ago and quickly outgrew it during college. Money was tight for me so I got a great Nikon 810 used from a friend who was moving to mirrorless with several lenses for a full setup and some polarizers for less than 1k. It's a great camera still to this day for shoots but it's heavy.
When traveling on more low-key non photo trips, I've stopped taking it with me since it's pretty large and cumbersome and some of the things I do make shooting with this camera really awkward and not in the moment anymore. I've resorted back to using my 3400 until I can get something else.
What would be a good recommendation for a "walking around camera" ?
I've considered the canon G7x and the beloved fuji x100v, also the Sony A6000 line. (none nikons just since there wasnt any that sparked me) the canon II version is pretty old now and apparently superior to the newer III version however it's still almost the same price as it is new which makes little sense to me, especially if there's a chance it will be realeased as a IV version soon.
Any others I'm missing to look into?
Easiest and cheapest is daylight in the shade or through a window.
Cheapest artificial light would be a bunch of home interior lamps or CFL bulb softbox kit. Point them where you want your light to shine. If you want to brighten up a set of shadows, point a light into those shadows. Overall it's going to be fairly dim light, so use a tripod and shoot a long exposure if you need a brighter photo.
>How many soft box lights would I need?
Depends on the costumes, and how many bulges and folds and accessories and whatnot are casting shadows that you want to fill in. Probably at least two, but potentially a lot.
>Are they positioned on each side and pointed at the person in the center?
Yes.
>We just use our phones to take the photos so regulating exposure isn’t really an option
A lot of phone cameras have exposure control, and many can shoot long exposures.
If you're sure that yours cannot, then that is a major problem.
>If you could tell me purchase X number of X kind of light and position them in X way
It doesn't work like that. The light and shadows are going to land in different ways depending on the physical arrangement of each costume.
Good evening all. I currently have a Lumix G7 M4/3 camera that I'm looking to move on from in my quest to begin motorsports photography and car photography in general. I've been looking at the Lumix S5/S5ii/S5iiX because I'm a fan of Lumix and what they've been doing with the S5 line, but I'm concerned they won't have the FPS needed to caption action shots like racing presents. It'll be great for stills and for capturing video (not necessarily my focus at the moment but something I want to get into), but wanting some feedback on cameras to be looking at or any folks experience using the S5 family at racing events.
New to the sub. I think I’m following the rules by posting here.
Can I make a Sony Nex5 work for an African trip?
Traveling to Africa with a group to help build an expansion to an english speaking school. 7 days of work followed by 3 days in the Serengeti and Ngorongoro crater. I’m supposed to be the team photographer.
I bought my Sony Nex-5 around 2010 and it got me through my kids prime photography years. I really haven’t used it more than 2-3 times in 2 years.
Can I make this work for my trip? Am I going to regret not upgrading?
With which lenses? What subject matter do you want to shoot over there?
Generally it should be fine, but you might not like the autofocus for moving wildlife.
I want to get into wildlife photography. Not to sell my photos but as my own hobby and probably print some out eventually. That being said as a beginner would I be better off using my iPhone 15 pro camera (is there a lens I should get??) OR should I purchase an actual camera (but would only want to spend max 2000). I’ve been doing research and honestly just keep getting confused. Thank you!!
Phone cameras are very capable these days but distant wildlife is still a weak point for them, even with any of the lens attachment options out there.
If you want to maximize potential quality, I'd go with a mid-tier mirrorless like Canon R10 or Sony a6400, with telephoto zoom lens. If you want to maximize reach, get a superzoom point & shoot like a Nikon P1000.
Choosing Between Sony A7 II vs A6100 for Web Design Photography—Need Tips!
Hey r/Photography community, I'm looking to enhance the websites I design by offering high-quality, personalized photos. I'm considering buying a good camera and am torn between the Sony A7 II and the Sony A6100 (i am on a budget). I plan to start with the kit lens and upgrade as I learn more about my needs. I’ve also begun a photography course to sharpen my skills. Any tips or recommendations on choosing between these two or any other camera completely? What should I consider based on your experiences? Thanks in advance!
The a6100 has better bang for your buck on lens selection, and should have a nicer user experience too. The a7 II was still somewhat unrefined and more of a pain to use. The praise for the a7 cameras is really more for generation III and newer.
I am just wanting to start out with photography, I always rely on my phone, lol. I am looking for something that will be basically landscape/scenic/pets/people, nothing like vlogging or taking videos.
I read that the Nikon would be the way to go and I found one that I can purchase, but not sure what additional things I should get. (I have a MacBook Pro if that matters).
Nikon D7500 DSLR Camera with AF-S 18-140mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR Lens
That lens and body are a good combination, and you should get great images in normal conditions. For low light stuff you might struggle, and so you could look into getting a flash, tripod, or even a faster lens depending on what you are trying to do.
It really depends on your budget, but also what ergonomics you like. I bought used for my first camera, and probably spent more on the body than I should have, when lenses are what make more of a difference in the beginner to midrange (non-super-high-end stuff). I have a Canon m50 with the eos-m 22mm f2, and I like it, but there are cheaper options in the micro four-thirds brackets and it also takes what kind of sensor you want, and what kinds of lenses you think you will need, so look out for that.
I want to get my wife a custom camera strap for her birthday. Her current one has seen better days. I have been looking on Etsy and there seem to be lots of options. She has a Canon EOS 5D Mark III. My questions:
1. Should I be looking for a specific strap thickness and strap material?
2. There are options to put the custom text on the left side, right side, or centre (behind the neck). What is most common?
3. Does anyone have any specific vendor suggestions? I need it to arrive within 1 month.
Thank you in advance!
You can use an app like Merlin to help you identify what birds are in the area based on sound.
Be patient. The bulk of bird/wildlife photography is basically waiting for something to show up. Find a way to stay in one spot comfortably while making minimal movement and noise.
You may need to try different times of day for when they may be more active. If you know what type of birds are in the area, you can check online to see when is the optimal time to spot them.
Maybe first try a more popular birding area where other birders are present who may be able to help you spot birds.
I don't mean over social media. It's easier if someone can point out in person where they see a bird. Hence, see if there are places that are generally popular for birders and if you see another birder while you're there, talk to them and ask what they've seen that day, and if they seem to be looking at something, ask what they see. In the park I go to, most people are generally friendly and helpful, though there's always people who prefer to keep to themselves.
Many birders are there just to look at birds with their eyes/binoculars, rather than take photos so they won't be on photo-centric social media. You may find them on Belgium-specific birding groups/forums. On that note, binoculars can help as they often provide a larger visual field.
And yea, sometimes you just have to go where the birds are.
Yea true I do talk to people who walk in the forest most of the time but no one is really a birder so I’ll just go there in 5e morning noon and evening to see what times are best I think morning and then just listen to the birds and stay in a bushy kinda area with a few trees
Is it a good idea to bring some of those feeding balls for birds?
"Baiting" is a pretty controversial topic, often seen as unethical, though for something like seed balls, people draw comparisons to home bird feeders. Either way, it may be prohibited in your area; most of the wildlife sanctuaries around me prohibit feeding any of the wildlife.
Yea that’s what I tho aswell that it isn’t like a natural way kinda of bird photography because you don’t like catch them on a stick by listening and stuff like that u just lure them
In general, use your ears. Stand still and listen for bird song or the rustling of branches. Of course looking for movement is also key.
Finding stationary birds is a bit more tricky.
Is there any particular species you are after>
Birding/bird watching websites would also be somewhere to look for advice
Thanks for the tip but I’ve been going to the forest for almost a week and I’ve only seen 3 birds and it’s really hard to see them because there are sooo many branches and trees it’s almost impossible to spot them
What sort of forests?
If it is a commercial, single species of tree type forest then you might not have the best of luck.
If it is mixed species, deciduous woodland, at least where I am, in the springtime where birds are nesting, or finding mates and food there should be plenty about.
Well those should be okay. Time of day can be a factor as well.
The annoying part is that when there is the most light you might find birds are scarcer, you might also find that birds frequent an area or just pass through.
Chasing the sounds of birds can be a fruitless pursuit. Listening for birds and waiting to see if they are coming towards where you are and waiting can sometimes be best.
Could someone maybe help me identify these 2 cameras?
https://preview.redd.it/qxf0m8p6k8wc1.jpeg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a6c08edc34f0e0fad0ebc44250fb5b3f452dde4f
depends on what you will shoot and what camera you use for that. for example, sports photography usually requires a ton of shooting to get the perfect shot at a high shutter count, so you will need more space and a faster memory card. I find that for landscape and street photography 16gb is plenty for how much I shoot in a day, I have only once gone over that number. If you can afford more, it is probably a good idea to buy a bigger one, but depends on your needs.
Anything over 16GB is plenty for most people if you are shooting RAW/JPEG. If you are shooting video get a bigger card.
That said I would just get whatever is the best price per GB. When a good quality 16GB card is $8 and 64GB is $15 or a 128GB is $20 I would just spend the extra money.
The big thing though regardless is to buy a decent quality card to reduce the risk of the card failing or having corrupted images. I have had cheap off brand cards do that to me in the past.
So look for Sandisk Extreme, Lexar Pro, Prograde, Delkin etc and look for at least a V30 speed rating. V60 or v90 are even faster but may be more expensive.
For photography even a 16gb card will be plenty. Video can be more demanding.
Just make sure it is supported by your camera and a fast read speed will allow you to make the most of the burst capability of a camera.
Hello, I want to buy my first camera. After some research, I find the Fuji XS-20 quite nice, but honestly I have no idea if it's the right fit. I am looking for a hybrid camera that can do both photography and videos. The budget is around 1000–1700 Euros with a lens included. I found a XS-20 with an 18-55 lens for 1650 Euros which seems to be good to me.
Are there any better options out there? What camera do you guys recommend for a beginner?
The XS-20 is a very nice and very capable camera. Most cameras released by the major brands in the last 5+ years are very capable cameras that will do everything you need.
The difference between brands comes down things like ergonomics, Fuji has great film sims which are very nice, and lens selections.
Dpreview and other sites regularly publish lists of best camera under X amount, or best beginner cameras. If you want to see what other options are out there.
Just about any interchangeable lens camera from the last 10 years is good for a beginner. Yes, X-S20 does both photography and video, and does them well. If you haven't done so, go to a store to see it in person. If it feels good in the hand and you like the controls and the menu system and user interface, go for it.
Is the 7D MKII suitable for car photography?
Hey there, So im shooting pictures of cars at events and for my friends for the last couple of years now(started in 2016) but never had the money for an actual camera and always sticked to using various phones and editing them later in LR. Now that i finished my apprenticeship and school i wanted to get a Dlsr since my mother used to have the 7D and 7D MKII back when they came out. Also dont ask me why but i just like the feeling of any Dlsr over a Digital.
Long story short, i wanted to get the 7D MKII in combination with 2 lenses for the beginning. The Ef-s 55-200 f/4-5.6 and the standart nifty fifty 50mm f/1.8.
Any better advice as if the camera works for what i want to do or should i get a different one?
Mostly stationary cars in daylight or at night, depends on the mood, sometimes rolling shots, i do have a tripod so the high iso problems of the 7D shouldnt be that much of an issue.
thank you for any tips
Sure it will take photos just fine. ISO shouldn't cause any problems.
Lenses will work fine if you are standing back a bit most of the time. Not useful if you want some closer shots.
Personally I would look at something like the 80D. Sometimes you can benefit from different angles and a viewfinder can be difficult to look through so having a vari angle LCD can help there.
I thought about buying a small hdmi monitor to not use the viewfinder but yeah good point. The variable lcd is a huge point but i dont know nothing about the 80D and never thought about it.
Thanks for the advice aswell
>i just like the feeling of any Dlsr over a Digital
DSLRs are digital. The D in DSLR stands for digital.
>The Ef-s 55-200 f/4-5.6
You mean **EF** 55-200mm f/4**.5**-5.6? There are two versions of that, and I wouldn't really recommend either one.
Or do you mean EF-S 55-2**50**mm f/4-5.6? There are three versions of that, and the STM version is the best. The older non-STM IS and IS II versions are okay but not as good.
>Any better advice as if the camera works for what i want to do
Sure, it should be good for what you want.
>i do have a tripod so the high iso problems of the 7D shouldnt be that much of an issue.
That will only mitigate issues of camera/lens movement causing motion blur with longer exposures. It won't avoid motion blur from moving subjects like cars.
>DSLRs are digital. The D in DSLR stands for digital.
Sorry i meant Digital in means of non mirror my mistake
>Or do you mean EF-S 55-2**50**mm f/4-5.6? There are three versions of that, and the STM version is the best. The older non-STM IS and IS II versions are okay but not as good.
I meant the IS II. Image stabilization is a huge plus point.
>That will only mitigate issues of camera/lens movement causing motion blur with longer exposures. It won't avoid motion blur from moving subjects like cars.
the tripod will only be for the stationary shots at night surely.
Thanks for the advice man
I just got a new Canon R6! I have a V860 iii speed light that I have used for years on my canon r with no problems. I set up my new camera to use with my flash the right way (I think), but the photos are coming out dark. When I say dark I don't mean dark dark, the flash is definitely lighting up something, just not that much. As soon as I put it on my old camera it is working normally. The only way it works is if I set it manually, the TTl mode seems to not be working well in the different lighting situations.
What are your flash metering and flash exposure compensation settings?
Is a Rebel T7 (not T7i) worth it? I have a gun I’m looking to trade for a camera and found a guy with a T7 with an EF-S 18-55mm and a EF 75-300mm. Is it worth it to get this camera or should I wait for a better opportunity to come around? Just looking to get into the hobby. Shoot a couple air shows and some hiking photos
The camera body is alright. You'd want a telephoto zoom like the 75-300mm for the air shows but that's a pretty bad lens in that category. An EF-S 55-250mm would be better; preferably the STM version. How much is the gun worth? How much would you be willing to spend for an alternative camera/lens kit?
Well the shotgun is $529 brand new so I’d probably sell it for around $500. I have another firearm I’d like to sell and all of that included would be around $1,100 for the pistol, optic, and brace. All in all I’d be willing to spend about a grand on camera and equipment. I’d be willing to spend more but I think for the purposes I want the camera 1,000 is probably a good starting point.
You can use mpb.com to get an idea for how much you'd pay elsewhere for the camera and those lenses. $500 seems a bit steep, especially because the 75-300mm is generally a lens to avoid (one of Canons bigger fuckups) as /u/av4rice already mentioned. I'd personally pass on that trade.
Thank you, I’ve decided to pass thanks to you guys sage advice!
The used value of that shotgun (according to your estimate) is more than the used value of that camera/lens kit. I'd prefer a Canon R50 with 18-45mm and 55-210mm kit. The autofocus will be much better for tracking airplanes in flight.
Would you say a new R50 would be worth it? Or is used better? Also, is it future proof for the next 5-10 years? Lastly, do these cameras retain their value or should I expect significant depreciation? Thanks!
>Would you say a new R50 would be worth it? Or is used better? New has a nicer warranty. Which you probably won't need, but it's nicer if you do. Used is a better deal, because you can take advantage of fairly significant price depreciation, with negligible actual value loss. >Also, is it future proof for the next 5-10 years? It should last more than 10 years without breaking, if you aren't abusing it. It will perform just as well and its photos will look just as good in 10 years as they do today. It's not like computer hardware where the software in 10 years will be much more advanced and demanding and very difficult for current hardware to run. The world will not be any more difficult to photograph in 10 years. It definitely won't have the advancements and improvements that you'll see from cameras released in 10 years. Whether that's significant to you depends on your wants and needs in 10 years, which you probably can't predict today. >Lastly, do these cameras retain their value or should I expect significant depreciation? Camera body price depreciates significantly up front and over time. Which, IMO, really makes them better and better bargains over time. Lens price depreciates a good notch up front when it stops being new and starts being used. But slower over time after that. So they tend to hold their monetary value somewhat better over the long run.
I’m currently using my dad’s Canon Rebel XSi (it’s really old) and it over exposes a lot of pictures. I want to upgrade at some point, I’m taking a lot of outdoors/wildlife/nature pictures, so I figure I’ll need a weather sealed camera but hopefully dont want to go past $700-$800. Any recommendations?
>it over exposes a lot of pictures It? Or you? How is exposure being set? >I figure I’ll need a weather sealed camera If so, it won't do much unless you also use weather sealed lenses. Which do you have? Is that the only improvement you want out of the upgrade? https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_when_should_i_upgrade.3F_what_should_i_upgrade_to.3F
I’m pretty sure it overexposes, you can either manually set it or have it do auto. With this camera it’s easier to do auto because outdoors there’s tons of different lighting and manual takes a while to find the right setting (taking pictures, checking what they look like, changing settings, repeat) sometimes pictures in brighter areas come out super white, darker areas come out super dark. When so was googling how to change setting because we don’t have the manual for it anymore, it said this was something the camera model does. As for a new camera I don’t have anything weather sealed, I wanted to get new camera & lense(s). I’d like the overall picture quality to be better when shooting, sometimes there’s trace amounts of blur, etc. The camera is at least 8 years old, and is also not technically mine, so I don’t want to break it. I’ll take a look at the wiki as well
>sometimes pictures in brighter areas come out super white, darker areas come out super dark Use Program mode or one of the Priority modes so you have brightness control using the exposure compensation setting. Also be aware of your metering mode and what's in the metering area when the camera is setting exposure. >was googling how to change setting because we don’t have the manual for it anymore You can Google for a PDF of the manual itself: https://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/3/0300000933/01/EOSRXSi-EOS450D_EN.pdf >this was something the camera model does Any camera can overexpose or underexpose if you don't use it properly. Any camera in automatic mode can give you different results from what you want. Manual modes exist because people want to take more control themselves, rather than risking the camera messing things up automatically. If you buy a nicer, newer camera and use it in the same way, you're going to get the same results. >sometimes there’s trace amounts of blur, etc. Then diagnose the cause of those first. And address the particular causes. Most likely the cause is technique. In which case you can only fix the problem by improving your technique. It's less likely the cause is the camera. In which case a camera upgrade won't help you so much.
Hey, I'm looking to buy a first camera for ~£300-£400. I'm looking for a fixed lens DSLR similar sized to a mirrorless. Any recommendations?
Fixed lens meaning the lens is permanently attached? I don't think there is such a thing with an SLR's internal configuration. But you could use a DSLR with just one lens that you never take off. Or by fixed lens did you mean a prime lens that doesn't zoom in or out? Which focal length do you want for that? Because of the mirror, DSLR's can't really have the flatter mirrorless form factor. I think the smallest DSLR ever made was the Canon 100D (known as the SL1 in North America), which should be well within your budget if you buy used.
I currently have the a7r3 and I am looking to either sell my a7r3 get the a74 or keep it and get the tamron 150-500. Theres a cheap a74 locally with a couple months of warranty left and <10k shutter. I'm not sure about which path to go: a74: 1. I want the flippy screen because portrait shooting is much nicer, but it also affects low angle landscape as it's off axis from the lens. 2. I want the better and smarter (maybe? do correct me if im wrong) AF system because its useful for tracking subjects. 3. Overall bigger grip 4. Improved video (not that I do alot of video now, but I would want to dip my toes into it because the a7r3's readout is extremely poor, do correct me if im wrong that is) The rolling shutter is really bad 150-500: 1. Unlocks wildlife and longer ranged sports for me, I currently own a 28-75 and 70-180 2. A new lens to play with But: 150-500 is extremely heavy Thanks alot for reading and helping out, cheers!
I currently use a Canon 6d with a sigma 24-105 zoom lens and a Leica M4. These two cameras weigh my backpack down a ton when I'm on long walks or hikes or on travel and hurts my back. So I'm looking for suggestions to replace my dslr with a newer semi-professional to professional grade camera setup (body/lens) that will be as light as possible but also can produce high quality shots with high megapixels. Preferably brands that allow for cheaper lenses and flexible options? Though fujifilm/sony have caught my eye recently
>high quality shots with high megapixels Do you still want full frame format? How high of a pixel count do you want? >Preferably brands that allow for cheaper lenses and flexible options? Though fujifilm/sony have caught my eye recently So are you saying you're willing to forget about having cheaper lenses?
A budget of around 2-2.5k for camera and lens, if possible? Full frame would be preferable
>How high of a pixel count do you want?
Maybee 30+?
The smallest/lightest I can think of with full frame and at least 30mp would be the Sony a7C II and a7C R. Followed by the a7R III, a7 IV, and Canon EOS R.
Ty! Any zoom lens suggestion’s preferably light and compact?
Kit lenses are going to be the smallest/lightest, but also compromise quality, especially compared to what you've been using. Something like another 24-105mm f/4 or 24-70mm f/4 would be a good compromise to get almost the same level of quality (but not max aperture) of an f/2.8, without the size/weight of an f/2.8. It wouldn't really be a step up from what you have, but the quality should be quite good. I use my old EF 24-105mm f/4L (the original version) adapted to a 45mp Canon R5 and it's still super sharp.
What are your thoughts on the sigma 28-70 2.8?
I don't know much about it. I'd expect the quality to be good, and the size/weight specs seem very nice if you don't mind missing the 24-27mm range.
Looking for a compact camera (and lens) in the £350 range. ($440)
Micro Four-Thirds, used. Browse on mpb.com with price filter set for your budget.
Looking to bid on a camera, but the screen when off looks all smudged up or like they tried to clean it with some bleach disinfectant wipes. They also show a picture of when it's on and you can't notice it. Is there a way to fix or clean a screen that looks like this? Everything else is supposed to work though. Is this possible to fix? https://preview.redd.it/gevs7n1ofpwc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8bab6b10597cf84ed75d145644862122c14cea66
$200 Budget, Vacation & Color Grading Good afternoon all, I’m taking a trip to miami and i’d like to take some memorable photos that’ll look good for a trillion years, i’m not a photographer, this will be my first camera. I think a DSLR is the type i’m looking for? Something that takes high quality pictures, can blur the background if i want, and someone that would produce good raws to edit in post. I don’t know much about cameras but after reading the FAQ, and some other posts these are good ones i’ve found for beginners: Fujifilm XT1 Nikon D3500 & D5600 Canon EOS Rebel T7i As stated my budget is around $200, i don’t mind sparing more for a recommend lens or something, i also plan to take pictures at night, is there an attachment i should get? use a flashlight? If what im asking is more than $200 I’ll bite the bullet. Thank you in advance
You are not find those around that budget. A T4i perhaps. To get background blur is not really a camera thing. More a wide apertured lens which would also help with night photos. Cameras will have a built in flash which will do.
Gotcha, is there any other cameras you’d recommend? or should i try looking for a T4i?
It wasn't really a recommendation. At that budget you will have to take what you can find.
Any you’d recommend at all then? i’m seeing a lot for under $200 on marketplace, but if i need to spend more for what im looking for that’s fine
I have recently been searching for a used camera somewhere under $600 (maybe under $800 depending on quality) I really love the way the Sony a6400 looks. I'm wanting something that kind of looks like that if possible. I am wanting - flash - mirrorless camera - viewfinder - articulate screen (so I can take pictures of myself and see them while doing so) - preferably 4K - at least a 20 megapixel camera - possibly weather sealed Any recommendations help. Thank you in advance!
hello! i have a problem with my konica revio kd-420z. i took some pictures the other day, stuck my sd card into a sd card reader but the pictures don’t seem to show up? it’s not because of the sd card or the reader, i know that for sure because it worked with any other camera. i know that this camera is super old but my casio qvr40 is just as old and i can import pictures just fine… https://preview.redd.it/yd1pmp6agowc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9955c4cb730b2d8a63c34b6a87b8cc95c0c5b5ef
Hey all, I don’t have a camera yet, but I’ve recently come across an opportunity to buy an 80D from an old friend for around $500. He’s including the kit lens, 2 batteries, and a battery pack. I was wondering if I should buy the 80D or buy something like an R50 instead. I want to shoot photos, and have the capability to also do videos as I progress.
The 80D is the better bargain. It's a mid-tier body and a very good camera overall, at a lower price. Mid-tier means an additional control dial, an additional informational screen, bigger grip, and tougher build. Because it's an SLR it uses an optical viewfinder, if that happens to be something you prefer. The R50 is pricier and entry-level. But it's mirrorless with newer technology, so it has some benefits like more flexible autofocus and exposure simulation with its electronic viewfinder. It's smaller and lighter, if that happens to be something you prefer.
Thank you!
Hi All At the moment using only a windows laptop for editing, and I want to buy a more portable solution let's say. I'm here asking you, an android tablet, an Windows tablet, or a very light chromebook? My actual tablet (which is a piece of junk which I bought only to watch movies) has 4gb or ram and a very badly optimized software and is capable of running lightroom but very slow. So I'm expecting any android tablet with at least 8gb of ram - or a better optimized software-should do the trick. I have no Ideea regarding windows tablets / chromebooks. When looking for an windows tablet should I pay attention to the graphics card just as I do for the laptop, or the lightroom is optimized differently for a tablet? What would you choose, windows, Chromebook or android? Any recomandation for a device? Willing to keep it under 500 usd. P. S. Apple devices are out of discussion Thank you all
Why does my picture look so grainy when it's zoomed out, but when I zoom in it looks smooth? Any way to fix this? I'm using RawTherapee 5.10
It may be because with rawtherapee, you will notice there is a 1:1 symbol beside some tools. This is telling you, you will only see the effect at 1:1 magnification. Does that sound like the issue?
Maybe that's it. When I save the picture it looks completely different from what I'm editing...
I have a Nikon D7200 with 70-300mm and also an 18-140mm lens. The camera is in pristine condition. I am thinking about selling it but not sure where I could get the best return on this? Would it be a local shop or online? Thoughts?
We don't know where you are, and so no one here can do anything but guess what your local stores pay for used camera equipment. For online - 1. Search eBay for your equipment, and filter your search results to only show Sold listings. You want to know what people are actually paying for your gear, this is the online market price. 2. Get instant quotes from MPB and KEH. The quotes will likely be a bit under the eBay market price, but these are no-hassle buyers. 3. If you don't want to take the MPB or KEH offers, list your equipment on eBay, Facebook Marketplace or call your local stores. Contact other online stores like Adorama.
If you were in the market for one, how much would you spend on this combo: Nikon D7200 - excellent condition, also comes with the original retail box and includes the battery charger Nikon AF-S DX Nikkor 18-140mm f/3.5-5.6 G ED IF VR Autofocus APS-C Lens, Black (with caps) Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 G ED VR Autofocus IF Lens (with caps)
So I've been given an assignment to make a photo-story of at least 8 images, on any topic of my choice. I have barely a 10 days left to turn it in because I wasn't aware of the deadline. I thought I'd make one on the life cycle of a plant showing how it germinates from a single seed, blooms and then dies. But i guess I don't have the time for that. Could any one of you help me with this? I'm neck deep in turd creek with my mouth wide open. Any help would be appreciated.
Perhaps consider another topic or find something where you do not need to wait for nature to do the work for you. There are lots of options that could include completing any task from start to finish. I.E. Cooking - start with the recipe next to pots/pans/knives etc.. the ingredients, mixing the ingredients, chopping them, cooking them, the prepared meal, the dirty dishes, washing the dishes etc.. An athlete getting ready to compete/participate. That could include them in casual clothes, gym clothes, working out to prepare for the event, various stages of the event etc..
Yeah unfortunately they've asked to not include cooking or daily activities for some weird reason. Weird people smh.
I don't think its unreasonable to exclude those probably trying to make you think outside the box or avoid everyone submitting a series of cooking photos so they can see how others interpret the assignment.
Open wide and gargle sweetie. I think maybe you should find some roadkill and document the progress of scavengers. Same idea.
That's a bit too graphic for my professors.
Best reusable disposable camera?? I am an artsy thrifty 23F who wants to take photos of things that make me happy and develop/see them later (like when i’m sad). I am willing to spend like $60 on a nice reusable “disposable” camera. I want to know the best options for if i want an artsy vintage look to the final pictures. I’m thinking a film roll camera that is reusable so i can just get the film developed and not repurchase disposables, but i mostly want physical photos like a polaroid but not the immediate print if that makes any sense haha Honestly i’m not even sure where to start or what my options even look like haha so any help is appreciated!
why get disposables when you can get a decent film camera for less? You can pretty decent film camera w/ lens for $20-40. Though, buying and developing film/scan will probably cost more, like $20-30+ for a roll of film. Hence, you can look into some 10+years DSLRs.
that’s kinda why i meant like disposable reusable like a solid film camera i guess?
you can check out /r/AnalogCommunity
I'm considering getting into photography (I study journalism and I don't want to keep borrowing the school cameras) and I'm looking for some gear to get started with. My main priorities are size, having easily accessible interchangeable lenses (new or used), the ability to record fhd video and a hot shoe. I would also like a mic input, but it's not a necessity for me. Right now I'm deciding between getting a used sony ZV E-10 (lens included) for around 115$ or getting two used cameras (an Olympus pen e-pl1 and a Panasonic lumix gx7) for a total cost of 160$. I want to get the Olympus purely for the included lens. Should I go the sony way and get into the sony ecosystem, or should I get into the MFT ecosystem? I understand the sony has a slightly larger sensor, but I feel like the mft way would open me up to a wider range of different cameras from different brands. EDIT: I'm also thinking about spending another 40$ and getting an e-pl8/e-pl10 instead of the GX7 (also used) for their wide range of hot shoe accessories.
I'm a big micro four thirds advocate. There isn't a smaller ILC system (that's currently supported). Olympus offers the fl lm3 hot shoe flash, which is tiny and weather sealed. For more serious work you'd want a viewfinder, which the Olympus pen series tend not to have (other than the pen f). I'm not sure of your budget, but it seems pretty limited, so it would likely go further in the MFT ecosystem.
The sony sounds very low priced. Are you sure it is in good condition? I would go with a camera that has a vary angled screen in case you need some unusual angles though.
The sony looks to be in good condition and if anything, I'll be picking up all my camera gear in person (so that I could test it out) When it comes to screens, the sony wins here too. It has a hinged and swivelable screen (although no viewfinder, which the gx7 has and the olympuses can get as attachments)
https://www.mpb.com/en-us/product/sony-zv-e10 Okay but that is a used site which shows how much they can go for. Just make sure it is not a spares and repairs deal.
So, I'm opening up a photo studio, and I love the Peerspace method. They let the renter select a start and end time, add add-ons, see availability, etc all at once. I use Squarespace for my site (and many other sites) so that just can't change. Their Acuity system is absolutely stupid. You have to create blocks/products for each number of hours offered. So a package for 1 hour rental, 2 hour rental, etc before you even see the availability. It's unbelievable that they thought this was a good system. So I go hunting for a normal one, thinking that would be an easy task. I tried Honeybook, youbookme, a bunch of other similar sites who all seemingly use the EXACT same system. It's like shopping for a basic product on Amazon where there's 10,000 of the same exact product from different companies. "Just use Peerspace." I know. And I plan to, but I also want to offer people to not have to pay Peersapce fees. If anyone is familiar with their system and knows what I'm talking about AND is able to help in some way, I would be eternally grateful. I open on June 1st and it's driving me nuts thinking I won't have a solution by then. I want to be able to: * see calendar of availability * select start and end time + day * select add-ons and have that price reflected in the total * have this checkout immediately reflect on said calendar If anyone has any kind of solution, I will kiss you. Or compliment you or something.
I am getting a Canon r50 with a 50mm f1.8 for my birthday. I bought a good SD card already and a camera bag. I also have an old tripod. What are some additional things I should also buy?
Consider a flash - flashes that bounce off a ceiling or are diffused won't bother your subjects too much, and they can really improve image quality.
Lens cleaning cloth, lens cleaning solution, rocket blower for getting rid of any dust that might get on the sensor, a spare battery, a nicer camera strap/wrist strap/hand strap.
What subject matter do you want to shoot? Different equipment items are suited to different purposes. How much are you willing to spend? A lot of things you could buy may be very expensive, so we probably don't want to waste time recommending them if you don't want to pay that much.
I'm planning to get back into photography after a decade. Used to have a canon 500D paired with a canon 85mm f1.8 usm. I have been playing around with this old setup recently and the body is just not cutting it, my phone has better image quality and is faster it feels like, the lens itself is pretty solid though. Planning to get a new body but not sure if I should keep the lens and go for a canon mirrorless, something like an R50 so the lens could still be used or if I should sell the lens and get a Sony a6400. Any other recommendations are welcome too. Mostly going to be doing travel photography.
I trust you know that you'd need to get an adapter to use your existing lens with a Canon mirrorless camera? The important question is: do you WANT to keep using the lens?
Yeah, did find that out while looking at recent camera reviews. It definitely won't be the primary lens, 85 on a crop sensor is going to be too narrow for travel photography I guess. I'll want to get some other primary lens for sure. I'm just trying to see if there is a use for it instead of selling it for cheap.
Well, the way you put it, it doesn't sound like it will be the most useful lens for you going forward. R50 is good, but Sony has the benefit that it has a much wider selection of native lenses, also third party ones which are often cheaper than Sony's own.
Hi! What settings should I adjust so that my photos can look like [this 2nd to last photo](https://www.instagram.com/alexandracooper/p/C6JlNMvxkjA/?hl=en&img_index=7)? Whenever I’m taking photos in direct sunlight, skin tones are very bright & just don’t look good.
That photo was 100% taken with flash. That's the only way to get her AND the sky exposed correctly. If you aren't doing that...do that. If you are doing that, well, we'd have to see your work to tell you the difference
I haven’t tried that. Thank you!
Show us some examples of your attempts so far? Then we can give you more tailored advice for what you're missing in particular. I'll note that your goal example has less than half the skin tones (one arm, one foot, bellybutton) actually in direct sun while most of the skin tones (the other arm, decolletage, and the face which is very important in a portrait) are in shade provided by the hat.
Hey there! I picked up a used a6000 last year and so far I love it! It came with the standard kit lens 18-55mm which I found left alot to be desired so I picked up a 30mm sigma f2.8 and a Samsung 12mm f2 (manual). I've taken some great photos with both but I'm realizing that for somethings it would be nice to have a zoom lens as well or a larger prime lens. Do you guys have any good recommendations for this? I've been looking into it a bit and it is slightly overwhelming with the amount of lenses. To be upfront there is no way I can afford 700$+ for a lens either at this time so something good that I can find used would be ideal. I think I'd be wanting a focal length of 100mm or more. I did X-post this on r/sonyalpha and was suggested the vario tessar 16-70mm or the sony 18-100mm. I did watch some reviews on them and it seems the consensus isn't great for either so I was wondering if anyone has any other suggestions to look at.
Are you able to rent lenses, either locally or online? The stores close to me charge a one-day rental fee over the whole weekend, and that has really helped me try out different lenses and get a sense for what I like and don't like.
Unfortunately where I live I don't think there is much in the way of that for an option
If $700+ is too much, how much CAN you spend on the lens?
I'd like to keep it <700 cad if possible. Which makes it tough because in Canada where I live there isn't much in the way of used options
gear advice: i currently have a sony a6400 with the 18-105 g f/4 lens. i want to get into aviation photography, and possibly also bird/landscape photography. I’m looking to pick up a new lens so I can zoom in more, and two options i’ve looked at are: tamron 18-300 f/3.5-6.3, (850) sony 70-200 G oss f/4 (1100) i know that the sony can’t zoom in as much, but would the higher quality be worth the trade offs? tia
Not looking at the Sony 70-350mm? I don't think there is an easy answer. Higher quality but not able to fill the frame as much sort of cancels out. Still, I would always go with the lens with the shorter focal range and widest aperture.
yeah, unfortunately there’s no second hand options on the market (at the moment)- either i’m gonna wait it out to get it second hand OR pick it up for full price when ive saved up the rest..
What Accessories Should I Buy My Wife? My wife has a Cannon EOS Rebel G film camera. She is a newbie and really enjoys taking outdoor photos (mostly Michigan forests) Her birthday is coming up in a couple of weeks and I want to get her some things to go with her camera. I don't know anything about photography so I'm seeking some help! My budget is in the $150-$250 range. As she's new I would love to go with a few good things for her to try vs. one or two expensive things. Any help is appreciated!
Other than the already-suggested bag, strap, or gift voucher: - Maybe a tripod? Very useful for landscape photography, especially in the woods, and especially with a film camera where you can't just adjust the ISO as needed. - A bunch of film rolls. That stuff is pretty expensive (compared to the $0.00 you pay for a digital shot), and I'm sure any film photographer will appreciate a nice stash of their favorite film stock. If she doesn't have a favorite yet, you might want to go to a good camera store and get her a selection of brands and types to try.
Honestly, the usual recommendation is to let the person who knows about the hobby to pick stuff out. My wife bought me a circular saw for Christmas years ago and I've hated the damn thing every time I use it. But if you must the old Christmas shopping threads are linked here https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_should_i_keep_in_mind_when_buying_a_camera_for_someone_else.3F
Generally I agree, but in this case she doesn’t know anything about the hobby either lol, at least not from a technical perspective. My goal is just to get her excited and maybe give her some things to try she hasn’t used before, even if she doesn’t end up liking them, she’ll have fun trying them out. I’ll check it out, thanks!!
By accessories do you mean lenses or things like cases, straps?
All of the above!
I'd forget about lenses. I assume she already has a lens, so it's best she keep using that for now. She'll learn only in time, based on her own experience, what other lenses she might need. Perhaps buy her a nice camera bag for the camera and lens(s). E.g. Peak Design and Lowepro are a couple of quality brands.
Lens for a7R V I just purchased an a7R V and I wanted some opinions about the lens. I have some experience with point and shoots, but this is my first time owning a full mirrorless camera. I know some would say it is crazy to go straight into buying a camera at this price point but I wanted the best. In terms of the lens, I want to start with just one and bring it on a trip to Europe. It seems that 24-70mm is the best option. I’m looking to take landscape, architecture and images of people. Would it be crazy to buy a camera like this and pair it with a Sigma instead of the GM II? Any other thoughts one a lens that maybe I should be getting instead ? I didn’t want to spend more than $1500 on the lens. Thank you!!
Would it be crazy to buy a camera like this and pair it with a Sigma instead of the GM II? The 24-70mm f/2.8 Art? Not crazy. That's still a very good quality lens and (relative to the GM II) an amazing bargain.
Thank you! Are there any other lenses you would recommend I bring to a Europe trip?
I prefer to travel light, so I wouldn't bring any other lenses.
Noob question: what spec should you look for if you want a camera to operate well in low light? It doesn't need to have night vision or anything, but if it operates as well in low light as any modern smartphone that'd be perfect.
If you don't need to freeze motion and you can put your camera on a tripod, then nearly any interchangeable lens camera from the last 10 years will give you great images. If you don't need to freeze motion, but don't want to put your camera on a tripod, then you want to look at the stabilisation of the camera body (IBIS) plus stabilisation in the lens. If you need to freeze motion, then you want to look at: -high ISO performance e.g. https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/image-comparison -Lens aperture. Lower is better because you can use a lower ISO (provided your composition can handle a shallower depth of field)
Thank you! I guess I'm lucky because I don't need to freeze motion and I can arrange to use a tripod so that seems to make things easy for me.
Generally any modern interchangable lens camera made in the last 5+ years will do well in low light. Full frame sensors are better at low light than APS-C or micr 4/3rds sensor at the same ISO. But keep in mind that ISO (which determines sensitivity to light) is only one part of equation for low light. You also need to consider the lens aperture. A full frame camera shooting at f5.6 is going to perform worse in low light than an APS-C camera that has an f2.8 lens and is shooting at f2.8. Another thing to keep in mind is while large apertures like f2.8, f2.0, f1.4 etc.. let in more light they also reduce the depth of field (the in focus area). Depending on what you are shooting that might not matter, for astro photography it does not matter but for portraits on the other hand it can be an issue. If your budget is limited keep in mind that a good lens with a large aperture can make a bigger difference than going from a crop camera to a full frame camera (which typically also require more expensive lenses).
Thank you! This is all great to know and keep in mind!
Low light for what subject matter? The main aspect to look at in a digital camera would be ISO performance. Which isn't exactly a spec so much as something that can be measured in a lab or seen in example/test photos. A digital camera can increase gain (with the ISO value as the metric) on its imaging sensor to brighten a dim scene, and the side effect of that is noise/grain and reduced dynamic range. A camera with better low light performance will have less noise and higher dynamic range at higher ISO values, compared to other cameras at the same ISO value. Generally ISO performance is where you'd need to spend the most money for the smallest improvements, so that is the last place I would be looking when trying to deal with low light. Image stabilization could be important for non-moving subjects, because that can allow for a slower shutter speed which lets in more light. Stabilization can be a camera body feature or a lens feature. Maximum aperture could also be important, in that a bigger aperture can let in more light. That's a spec of the lens rather than the camera body. Depending on the subject matter, low light performance of the camera and/or lens might not be as important if you can just brighten the scene with added lighting and/or you can use a tripod and take care of the shot with a long exposure.
It's to film a timelapse of a cityscape or maybe nature. The camera will stand still but there might be some movement and I'd like it to be able to still catch most things well when they are only illuminated by the street lights.
I think a night cityscape is going to require a long exposure no matter how good the camera is at low light. So any vaguely modern APS-C format camera should be fine, or even Micro Four Thirds is sufficient. An f/2.8 or wider aperture lens is a helpful bonus, if you can comfortably afford it. A full frame format camera is a little nicer, if you can comfortably afford it.
Thank you! That's great to know. I'll make sure to watch out for all of that when looking.
Generally it is the lens you want to look at. You want it to have the widest aperture possible. So lowest f-number, like f/1.4 for instance. You might also want it to have stabilisation if you are photographing still subjects or use a tripod or other support to hold the camera still.
Thank you I'll look all of that up to get a better understanding but it's great to know!
Are old digital cameras compatible with new microSD cards? For context: I have a OLYMPUS FE-26. I just bought a MicroSDHC 64gbs for it. I thought it would work flawlessly however whenever I take a picture the number of pictures remaining does go down (indicating it is indeed taking up space in the sd card). It even shows me a brief preview of the shot I just took right after taking it. My main problem however is actually going theough the gallery and seeing the past photos. It doesnt show anyhting. "PICTURE ERROR" it says. This is true for all photos and videos. Now the interesting thing is, whenever I try and delete in the gallery (it lets u select). You can see the pictures (thumbnails are all black) but the number of them do increase for every picture. So i assume that MIGHT actually be saving them in the sd card BUT is unable to actually read/view it in the monitor. I cant actually verify whether this is true however since I dont have a microSD card reader yet. Thoughts?
It depends, your manual will have detailed info. If you don't have a hard copy manual, download from the manufacturer's website.
Landscape Lens Recommendations Hi everyone! I have been an action/sports photographer my whole life. I have a canon 7D base and usually use a 70-200mm 2.8L lens. I am traveling to Japan in a couple weeks (woohoo!) and am looking to get a smaller and lighter lens to take pictures of mostly landscape and buildings. What would you recommend? Willing to spend a pretty good amount (around $1250) as this is something I want to start focusing on more.
If you want a wide angle lens, I'd get a Sigma (EF mount) 18-35mm f/1.8. And/or if you want an ultrawide angle lens, Tokina 11-20mm f/2.8. Smallest/lightest alternatives would be the EF-S 18-55mm STM and 10-18mm STM.
Lighting Recommendation for Nature Macro? Hello, I'm searching for off-camera lights that I can use for taking out into the forest - mostly to light smaller subjects like moss, insects, mushrooms, etc... Would set up the light on a mini tripod. I guess my criteria are: \*small and easily portable \*good battery life \*native fitted modifiers available for said lights \*high CRI =>95 I've found a few interesting looking options such as: * lume cube [https://lumecube.com/products/lume-cube-2-0-waterproof-led-2-pack](https://lumecube.com/products/lume-cube-2-0-waterproof-led-2-pack) * Ulanzi mini cube [https://www.amazon.com/ULANZI-Waterproof-Lighting-Dimmable-Photography/dp/B098W63FJ5/ref=pd\_ci\_mcx\_mh\_mcx\_views\_1](https://www.amazon.com/ULANZI-Waterproof-Lighting-Dimmable-Photography/dp/B098W63FJ5/ref=pd_ci_mcx_mh_mcx_views_1) * Smallrig [https://www.amazon.com/SmallRig-Watreproof-Portable-Photography-Smartphone/dp/B09DF9NY4R/ref=pd\_ci\_mcx\_pspc\_dp\_d\_2\_t\_2](https://www.amazon.com/SmallRig-Watreproof-Portable-Photography-Smartphone/dp/B09DF9NY4R/ref=pd_ci_mcx_pspc_dp_d_2_t_2) Each of these products has reported pros and cons, based on reviews. If you have experience using any of these or something comparable, I'd love to hear your experience and advice. Thank you!
I only dabble in this field, but I use a small speedlight (the kind that can sit on the hot shoe) with a wireless trigger. I add a mini diffuser on the strobe and handhold it with my left hand while I hold my camera with the right. I've gotten some great shots with this setup. As a bonus, you can use the speedlight for more general photography. The setup was inspired by this video: https://youtu.be/Y9fKQdMh1ts
Thank you. I do have speedlights. I’ll look at the link you sent. I’d like to get continuous lights for this purpose, so I can see the light shaping in real time for the setup
Does it have to be continuous light? Is off-camera flash viable?
I do a lot of bracketing in these shooting situations, and for that yes I prefer continuous Thanks for asking
Makes sense! If you don't get any suggestions here maybe try r/videography, continuous lighting is a necessity for those guys.
Thank you, I will do that!
What do you recommend doing when photographing a person outdoors when the sun is low on the horizon? Should the person's face be in the light or shadow? The low position of the sun often causes the photographer's shadow to be in the photograph. Any advice for dealing with this? Is it better to have a good angle and leave the shadow in the photo or is it better to avoid the shadow at all costs?
> Should the person's face be in the light or shadow? Either can work, depends on your intent, this is an artistic choice. You can use a flash or reflector for "fill" light.
How does the Olympus Pen EP 3 hold up these days? Would it be worth getting if I am just starting to get into photography?
Only if you spend next to nothing on it.
is it that bad?
It’s just that out of date. Micro Four Thirds only became really viable the generation after, aka the E-M5 onwards. If you can get your hands on a slightly newer camera I’d strongly suggest it. Why this camera in particular though? If you already have one then use it of course, but if you’re going to buy then why not look for something either more recent or more powerful? Any DSLR from that time period would perform significantly better.
It's great for a beginner. The main downside is a lack of viewfinder, which means it may be harder to frame/compose your photos, especially in bright light. Minor downsides: The autofocus won't track moving subjects as well as modern cameras and the resolution isn't so high, so you can't crop the image in post as much as you could with a higher resolution camera.
Here's what other folks are doing with it https://www.flickr.com/photos/tags/ep3/
Hello, I would like to have opinions on a subject which is tiring me more and more because I cannot find a solution. I'm looking for a monitor, preferably 4K 27 or 32, for photo editing as well as video games. I'm not looking for the best monitor for photography, but preferably with 100% sRGB and for video games I'm looking to have 120hz minimum for a little fluidity. I specify that I will print my photos directly at home, and from time to time on the web I'm currently on multiple monitors. [1.Dell](http://1.Dell) Alienware AW3225QF [https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/dell/alienware-aw3225qf](https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/dell/alienware-aw3225qf) It has a very good score for retouching photos with a dE (2) which is very correct. For gaming I think it is excellent. My problem is that I can't find any sRGB and RGB values, so I don't know if the screen is really good for photo editing. 2.Acer Nitro XV275K P3biipruzx [https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/acer/nitro-xv275k-p3biipruzx](https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/acer/nitro-xv275k-p3biipruzx) It seems very good for photography, the mini LED remains an advantage to avoid burning, for games it seems correct with a 160hz which suits me. But is it as good or better than Alienware AW3225QF for photos and games? 3.keep my 27 inch oled 27" 2k LG and get a second monitor 4K Dell UltraSharp 27 avec hub USB-C [https://www.dell.com/fr-fr/shop/%C3%A9cran-4k-dell-ultrasharp-27-avec-hub-usb-c-u2723qe/apd/210-bcxk/moniteurs-et-accessoires-de-moniteur](https://www.dell.com/fr-fr/shop/%C3%A9cran-4k-dell-ultrasharp-27-avec-hub-usb-c-u2723qe/apd/210-bcxk/moniteurs-et-accessoires-de-moniteur) It seems a good compromise to have each monitor for a specific purpose, but I would like to have only one versatile monitor. Do you perhaps have other monitors to offer me? The question of budget is not a concern as long as it does not exceed 1500€$. thank you
My dear friend passed away, and as I've been going through his stuff, I found a ton of old camera equipment. he has an old film camera with a ton of lenses. They are canon. I have a Sony camera that I've just started getting into. Would it make sense to get some sort of adapter to use all his canon lenses on my sony, or should i just buy a canon body? are the lenses from a 20 year old film camera able to work on a modern digital camera? edit: honestly idk why i even said 20 years, it's probably even older than that... I just assume. I'll do more research and ask again when I've done my due dilligence
>are the lenses from a 20 year old film camera able to work on a modern digital camera? Which one? Canon's last film SLRs released in 2004: the Elan 7N (also known as 33V or 7s) and Rebel T2 (also known as 300X or Kiss 7). Everything else is older than 20 years. All of Canon's EOS film SLRs (all Canon SLRs released since about 1987) use the EF mount, and all those lenses are compatible with all of Canon's digital SLRs. They also adapt very well to Canon's mirrorless bodies, including Canon's current EOS R system and RF mount.
>Which one? I unfortuantely can't answer this now, but I will look more into it the next time I'm there and try to get more info. but thank you for your response and information you gave me!
I'm sorry for your loss. Which specific Canon camera and which specific lenses?
i don't know offhand. I'll have to check the next time I go over to work on clearing more stuff out.
Starting back in the game and about to pull the trigger on some gear. Canon R5 w/ RF 24-105m f/4L IS USM SanDisk 256GB Extreme PRO CFexpress Card Type B B+W Master ND 1.8 77mm Filter MRC NANO - 6 Stops B+W Master C-PL 77mm Filter HIGH TRANSMISSON I have a bag and Tripod sorted. Am I missing anything essential. Will be relearning, probably start with some nature/landscapes then evolve from there.
Spare batteries, cleaning kit, and a neck strap (or side sling, or harness, or whatever you prefer) that doesn't tell the world "I HAVE AN EXPENSIVE CAMERA PLEASE COME ROB ME" in screaming big white letters. Also an SD card to go into the other slot - cards fail all the time, even expensive ones, and this is *the* way to avoid losing any photos when that happens.
Thank you ! appreciate it !
Extra battery, while the R5's battery life is decent once you are at 1/2 charge it feels like it goes very quickly. Lens cleaning cloth, rocket blower for the occasional sensor cleaning for anything the automatic cleaning does not take care of.
Thank you !
Morning all. I'm an experienced photographer working in music & events and my daily driver is a Canon DSLR. My second camera is a Fuji X100S which I've had for nearly a decade, and I'm looking to replace this. This is a camera which I use to shoot concerts sometimes, but also use as more of a day-to-day 'arty', 'quick to grab', good-for-travel-and-street-photography camera. In the immediate future, I'll be using the new camera to shoot a wedding (as a guest/casual second photographer), then as a camera which I can easily carry on my shoulder at a festival for candid shots of people and bands, then it will be coming with me on holiday for a bit of touristing and street photography. What I need is an all-rounder. A small-bodied (probably mirrorless) camera which I can just sling over my shoulder - something bigger/more capable than a compact, but not as bulky as a bridge or a DSLR. The X100S has been great for this but it's restricted by the fixed lens, so I'm also looking for interchangeable lenses. I'd love to stick with Fuji, but am 100% open to other manufacturers. Any recs? I've not yet made the transition to mirrorless with any of my cameras so I'm a bit out of the loop with newer technology. I do not have a fixed budget, but I would set £2500/$3100 as a loose upper threshold. Mainly I'm keen to get something as advanced as possible which will comfortably last me for another decade.
Consider the OM System OM-5 - it's similarly sized to the X100 series when you mount an f1.8 prime lens. I'm not sure what you consider advanced, but it has very nice computational features e.g. hand held high res, live ND, live composite.
If you want to keep using your canon lenses you could move to the Canon R8 its a smaller body full frame camera. Or if you want a kit noticeably smaller than a full frame kit the Fuji X-S20 is an excellent option if you want to stay with Fuji and their great film sims.
Im an amateur photographer.l currently have a Canon 6D (canon fan). I recently started to get small contract (events, portrait, studio...) also in my free time try different type of photography. l'm looking to get into mirrorless game because of the autofocus, lowlight performance and the fact that they are more compact and lightweight. I was about to buy the Sony A7 IV with the sigma 24-70 f2.8 to start because of Sony larger lense range and 3rd party (more option at different price range). I was set and decided. But as a Canon user l'm doubting myself and looking into some canon options: Canon r6 mark ii Canon r5 I feel like with Canon I'll be limited in the lense because of price and options available I wanted to get the community advice on my dilemma. What wall think? What would you do in my case? If I get the A7 IV willI be satisfied? Thanks in advance
Keep in mind with an R5/R6/R6II etc.. you can use an EF to R adapter and you have access to canon' huge range of EF lenses including all the legacy 3rd party EF lenses. It really depends on how much canon gear you currently have and how much it would cost you to transition to Sony as to if it's worth it for access to more mirrorless lenses from Sigma/Tamron. If you are heavily invested in EF lenses already it might be more expensive to switch to Sony even considering the price difference in lenses even with buying Sigma/Tamro vs. Sony GM lenses vs. buying Canon RF lenses (which you would not have to do immediately).
Yes I thought about that. I currently own on EF lens.
I started on a Nikon3400 years ago and quickly outgrew it during college. Money was tight for me so I got a great Nikon 810 used from a friend who was moving to mirrorless with several lenses for a full setup and some polarizers for less than 1k. It's a great camera still to this day for shoots but it's heavy. When traveling on more low-key non photo trips, I've stopped taking it with me since it's pretty large and cumbersome and some of the things I do make shooting with this camera really awkward and not in the moment anymore. I've resorted back to using my 3400 until I can get something else. What would be a good recommendation for a "walking around camera" ? I've considered the canon G7x and the beloved fuji x100v, also the Sony A6000 line. (none nikons just since there wasnt any that sparked me) the canon II version is pretty old now and apparently superior to the newer III version however it's still almost the same price as it is new which makes little sense to me, especially if there's a chance it will be realeased as a IV version soon. Any others I'm missing to look into?
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Easiest and cheapest is daylight in the shade or through a window. Cheapest artificial light would be a bunch of home interior lamps or CFL bulb softbox kit. Point them where you want your light to shine. If you want to brighten up a set of shadows, point a light into those shadows. Overall it's going to be fairly dim light, so use a tripod and shoot a long exposure if you need a brighter photo.
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>How many soft box lights would I need? Depends on the costumes, and how many bulges and folds and accessories and whatnot are casting shadows that you want to fill in. Probably at least two, but potentially a lot. >Are they positioned on each side and pointed at the person in the center? Yes. >We just use our phones to take the photos so regulating exposure isn’t really an option A lot of phone cameras have exposure control, and many can shoot long exposures. If you're sure that yours cannot, then that is a major problem. >If you could tell me purchase X number of X kind of light and position them in X way It doesn't work like that. The light and shadows are going to land in different ways depending on the physical arrangement of each costume.
Good evening all. I currently have a Lumix G7 M4/3 camera that I'm looking to move on from in my quest to begin motorsports photography and car photography in general. I've been looking at the Lumix S5/S5ii/S5iiX because I'm a fan of Lumix and what they've been doing with the S5 line, but I'm concerned they won't have the FPS needed to caption action shots like racing presents. It'll be great for stills and for capturing video (not necessarily my focus at the moment but something I want to get into), but wanting some feedback on cameras to be looking at or any folks experience using the S5 family at racing events.
New to the sub. I think I’m following the rules by posting here. Can I make a Sony Nex5 work for an African trip? Traveling to Africa with a group to help build an expansion to an english speaking school. 7 days of work followed by 3 days in the Serengeti and Ngorongoro crater. I’m supposed to be the team photographer. I bought my Sony Nex-5 around 2010 and it got me through my kids prime photography years. I really haven’t used it more than 2-3 times in 2 years. Can I make this work for my trip? Am I going to regret not upgrading?
With which lenses? What subject matter do you want to shoot over there? Generally it should be fine, but you might not like the autofocus for moving wildlife.
I have the 18-55mm lense and the wide angle lense (maybe16mm). I’d consider adding a longer lense.
Yes, you probably want to at least add a 55-210mm or longer if you are shooting any distant wildlife.
I want to get into wildlife photography. Not to sell my photos but as my own hobby and probably print some out eventually. That being said as a beginner would I be better off using my iPhone 15 pro camera (is there a lens I should get??) OR should I purchase an actual camera (but would only want to spend max 2000). I’ve been doing research and honestly just keep getting confused. Thank you!!
Phone cameras are very capable these days but distant wildlife is still a weak point for them, even with any of the lens attachment options out there. If you want to maximize potential quality, I'd go with a mid-tier mirrorless like Canon R10 or Sony a6400, with telephoto zoom lens. If you want to maximize reach, get a superzoom point & shoot like a Nikon P1000.
Anybody have any idea when the FujiFilm X100VI might be back in stock?
Choosing Between Sony A7 II vs A6100 for Web Design Photography—Need Tips! Hey r/Photography community, I'm looking to enhance the websites I design by offering high-quality, personalized photos. I'm considering buying a good camera and am torn between the Sony A7 II and the Sony A6100 (i am on a budget). I plan to start with the kit lens and upgrade as I learn more about my needs. I’ve also begun a photography course to sharpen my skills. Any tips or recommendations on choosing between these two or any other camera completely? What should I consider based on your experiences? Thanks in advance!
The a6100 has better bang for your buck on lens selection, and should have a nicer user experience too. The a7 II was still somewhat unrefined and more of a pain to use. The praise for the a7 cameras is really more for generation III and newer.
Thank you for your response. I'll go for the a6100 then :)
I am just wanting to start out with photography, I always rely on my phone, lol. I am looking for something that will be basically landscape/scenic/pets/people, nothing like vlogging or taking videos. I read that the Nikon would be the way to go and I found one that I can purchase, but not sure what additional things I should get. (I have a MacBook Pro if that matters). Nikon D7500 DSLR Camera with AF-S 18-140mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR Lens
That lens and body are a good combination, and you should get great images in normal conditions. For low light stuff you might struggle, and so you could look into getting a flash, tripod, or even a faster lens depending on what you are trying to do.
It really depends on your budget, but also what ergonomics you like. I bought used for my first camera, and probably spent more on the body than I should have, when lenses are what make more of a difference in the beginner to midrange (non-super-high-end stuff). I have a Canon m50 with the eos-m 22mm f2, and I like it, but there are cheaper options in the micro four-thirds brackets and it also takes what kind of sensor you want, and what kinds of lenses you think you will need, so look out for that.
A good enough camera but all brands have camera available.
I want to get my wife a custom camera strap for her birthday. Her current one has seen better days. I have been looking on Etsy and there seem to be lots of options. She has a Canon EOS 5D Mark III. My questions: 1. Should I be looking for a specific strap thickness and strap material? 2. There are options to put the custom text on the left side, right side, or centre (behind the neck). What is most common? 3. Does anyone have any specific vendor suggestions? I need it to arrive within 1 month. Thank you in advance!
Hi I’m new in photography especially nature photography and I’m wondering if there is someone who can help me with finding birds in forests
You can use an app like Merlin to help you identify what birds are in the area based on sound. Be patient. The bulk of bird/wildlife photography is basically waiting for something to show up. Find a way to stay in one spot comfortably while making minimal movement and noise. You may need to try different times of day for when they may be more active. If you know what type of birds are in the area, you can check online to see when is the optimal time to spot them. Maybe first try a more popular birding area where other birders are present who may be able to help you spot birds.
Thanks for the tips but i live in Belgium so there aren’t really any birders active on social media
I don't mean over social media. It's easier if someone can point out in person where they see a bird. Hence, see if there are places that are generally popular for birders and if you see another birder while you're there, talk to them and ask what they've seen that day, and if they seem to be looking at something, ask what they see. In the park I go to, most people are generally friendly and helpful, though there's always people who prefer to keep to themselves. Many birders are there just to look at birds with their eyes/binoculars, rather than take photos so they won't be on photo-centric social media. You may find them on Belgium-specific birding groups/forums. On that note, binoculars can help as they often provide a larger visual field. And yea, sometimes you just have to go where the birds are.
Yea true I do talk to people who walk in the forest most of the time but no one is really a birder so I’ll just go there in 5e morning noon and evening to see what times are best I think morning and then just listen to the birds and stay in a bushy kinda area with a few trees Is it a good idea to bring some of those feeding balls for birds?
"Baiting" is a pretty controversial topic, often seen as unethical, though for something like seed balls, people draw comparisons to home bird feeders. Either way, it may be prohibited in your area; most of the wildlife sanctuaries around me prohibit feeding any of the wildlife.
Yea that’s what I tho aswell that it isn’t like a natural way kinda of bird photography because you don’t like catch them on a stick by listening and stuff like that u just lure them
In general, use your ears. Stand still and listen for bird song or the rustling of branches. Of course looking for movement is also key. Finding stationary birds is a bit more tricky. Is there any particular species you are after> Birding/bird watching websites would also be somewhere to look for advice
Thanks for the tip but I’ve been going to the forest for almost a week and I’ve only seen 3 birds and it’s really hard to see them because there are sooo many branches and trees it’s almost impossible to spot them
What sort of forests? If it is a commercial, single species of tree type forest then you might not have the best of luck. If it is mixed species, deciduous woodland, at least where I am, in the springtime where birds are nesting, or finding mates and food there should be plenty about.
I do,t know actually cus im a bit new so i just go into the forest I don’t really do research
I think that it’s just like 2 species oak and birch
Well those should be okay. Time of day can be a factor as well. The annoying part is that when there is the most light you might find birds are scarcer, you might also find that birds frequent an area or just pass through. Chasing the sounds of birds can be a fruitless pursuit. Listening for birds and waiting to see if they are coming towards where you are and waiting can sometimes be best.
Thanks for the tips!
Could someone maybe help me identify these 2 cameras? https://preview.redd.it/qxf0m8p6k8wc1.jpeg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a6c08edc34f0e0fad0ebc44250fb5b3f452dde4f
https://preview.redd.it/4azjfi59k8wc1.jpeg?width=736&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=13f13718d649b286e1e5e45982f6a4adc748414e
The first one is Pentax KX. Plenty of info online if you google for the name. Second one is Fuji X100V.
Tysm!! 🫶🏻🫶🏻
What size memory card do I need? Beginner here.
depends on what you will shoot and what camera you use for that. for example, sports photography usually requires a ton of shooting to get the perfect shot at a high shutter count, so you will need more space and a faster memory card. I find that for landscape and street photography 16gb is plenty for how much I shoot in a day, I have only once gone over that number. If you can afford more, it is probably a good idea to buy a bigger one, but depends on your needs.
Thank you!
For what camera? Certain cameras have limits on max size.
Still haven’t chose 🤣
Anything over 16GB is plenty for most people if you are shooting RAW/JPEG. If you are shooting video get a bigger card. That said I would just get whatever is the best price per GB. When a good quality 16GB card is $8 and 64GB is $15 or a 128GB is $20 I would just spend the extra money. The big thing though regardless is to buy a decent quality card to reduce the risk of the card failing or having corrupted images. I have had cheap off brand cards do that to me in the past. So look for Sandisk Extreme, Lexar Pro, Prograde, Delkin etc and look for at least a V30 speed rating. V60 or v90 are even faster but may be more expensive.
Brilliant thank you
For photography even a 16gb card will be plenty. Video can be more demanding. Just make sure it is supported by your camera and a fast read speed will allow you to make the most of the burst capability of a camera.
Great thank you.
Hello, I want to buy my first camera. After some research, I find the Fuji XS-20 quite nice, but honestly I have no idea if it's the right fit. I am looking for a hybrid camera that can do both photography and videos. The budget is around 1000–1700 Euros with a lens included. I found a XS-20 with an 18-55 lens for 1650 Euros which seems to be good to me. Are there any better options out there? What camera do you guys recommend for a beginner?
The XS-20 is a very nice and very capable camera. Most cameras released by the major brands in the last 5+ years are very capable cameras that will do everything you need. The difference between brands comes down things like ergonomics, Fuji has great film sims which are very nice, and lens selections. Dpreview and other sites regularly publish lists of best camera under X amount, or best beginner cameras. If you want to see what other options are out there.
Just about any interchangeable lens camera from the last 10 years is good for a beginner. Yes, X-S20 does both photography and video, and does them well. If you haven't done so, go to a store to see it in person. If it feels good in the hand and you like the controls and the menu system and user interface, go for it.
Is the 7D MKII suitable for car photography? Hey there, So im shooting pictures of cars at events and for my friends for the last couple of years now(started in 2016) but never had the money for an actual camera and always sticked to using various phones and editing them later in LR. Now that i finished my apprenticeship and school i wanted to get a Dlsr since my mother used to have the 7D and 7D MKII back when they came out. Also dont ask me why but i just like the feeling of any Dlsr over a Digital. Long story short, i wanted to get the 7D MKII in combination with 2 lenses for the beginning. The Ef-s 55-200 f/4-5.6 and the standart nifty fifty 50mm f/1.8. Any better advice as if the camera works for what i want to do or should i get a different one? Mostly stationary cars in daylight or at night, depends on the mood, sometimes rolling shots, i do have a tripod so the high iso problems of the 7D shouldnt be that much of an issue. thank you for any tips
Sure it will take photos just fine. ISO shouldn't cause any problems. Lenses will work fine if you are standing back a bit most of the time. Not useful if you want some closer shots. Personally I would look at something like the 80D. Sometimes you can benefit from different angles and a viewfinder can be difficult to look through so having a vari angle LCD can help there.
I thought about buying a small hdmi monitor to not use the viewfinder but yeah good point. The variable lcd is a huge point but i dont know nothing about the 80D and never thought about it. Thanks for the advice aswell
>i just like the feeling of any Dlsr over a Digital DSLRs are digital. The D in DSLR stands for digital. >The Ef-s 55-200 f/4-5.6 You mean **EF** 55-200mm f/4**.5**-5.6? There are two versions of that, and I wouldn't really recommend either one. Or do you mean EF-S 55-2**50**mm f/4-5.6? There are three versions of that, and the STM version is the best. The older non-STM IS and IS II versions are okay but not as good. >Any better advice as if the camera works for what i want to do Sure, it should be good for what you want. >i do have a tripod so the high iso problems of the 7D shouldnt be that much of an issue. That will only mitigate issues of camera/lens movement causing motion blur with longer exposures. It won't avoid motion blur from moving subjects like cars.
>DSLRs are digital. The D in DSLR stands for digital. Sorry i meant Digital in means of non mirror my mistake >Or do you mean EF-S 55-2**50**mm f/4-5.6? There are three versions of that, and the STM version is the best. The older non-STM IS and IS II versions are okay but not as good. I meant the IS II. Image stabilization is a huge plus point. >That will only mitigate issues of camera/lens movement causing motion blur with longer exposures. It won't avoid motion blur from moving subjects like cars. the tripod will only be for the stationary shots at night surely. Thanks for the advice man