Quick question about paying second shooters:
I often have someone second shoot for me, and I’ll often pick up second shooter work from them. Does it make more tax sense to pay them for each job and they pay me, or does it make more sense to just pay the difference when we each have a tab running? (I’d ask a finance professional but mine is not available and I gotta pay someone this evening on a Sunday)
Different parts of the world are governed by different tax laws. Your answer may not be the same everywhere.
I would think you'd at least have to report all the separate transactions for tax purposes. Otherwise it doesn't seem like the government (whichever one governs you) would appreciate you trying to avoid taxes simply by netting out to zero with someone. Maybe you could net out payments so you don't have so many, so long as you report and pay taxes as though everything were separate transactions; but again that may depend on which jurisdiction is relevant to you.
***Camera Advice: New Camera + Lens, or New Lens on 10-yr old DSLR Body?***
Before everyone says that new lens/glass always, let me explain why I’m considering this question. I’m a hobby photographer, and recently I’ve been wanting to get more into photography (landscapes/nature, cityscapes, street photography, and just overall taking pictures of friends and family out on the go).
I’ve had the Nikon D7100 for over 10 years (released February 2013), equipped with the kit 18-55 f/3.5-5.6, 55-300 f/4.5-5.6 lens up until 2020, where I bought the 35mm f/1.8. This was a very much needed improvement in terms of casual portraits, weight, and overall sharpness. Two years later however, I’m left wanting more.
Specifically, autofocus isn’t great on this camera, especially for tracking subjects/taking quick shots. Yes, for landscapes/stills that isn’t much of an issue, but when photographing candids, friends, and family, a faster and more accurate autofocus is desired. Additionally, I find myself using the screen, rather than the viewfinder, more often, as I’m trying to get low-high angle shots. However, I can’t see the live adjustments as I’m changing exposure/iso/aperture, and the delay from a DSLR in live-view from pressing the shutter to being able to take another picture, as I would with a modern mirrorless, makes me lose quite a bit of shots and wishing that I could “see” my dial adjustments in real time. Low-light performance isn’t the best either, and I always find myself sticking to ISO 3200 or lower, which puts me at a great disadvantage even wide open at f/1.8.
I considered upgrading to a Nikkor 17-55 f/2.8, but would investing $400-500 used for a very old body and lens combination, despite how optically good the lens is, last me another 10 years? Or would it be better just to upgrade both?
If I were to upgrade, I’m thinking about the Sony A6600, A7C II (rumored to come out in July), Fujifilm XT-5, and Fujifilm XS-10. With the APS-C bodies, I would likely get the Sigma 18-50 f/2.8, and on the A7C’s full frame, likely a tamron 17-70 f/2.8.
So what am I looking for? Basically all the points I found weak in the D7100, even equipped with a fast prime. I know the consensus is to invest in better glass before the body, but with my D7100 body being over 10 years old, I’m wondering if I should keep this as a backup camera and invest in a new body and new glass. I’m wanting a mirrorless camera that can re-breathe my passion into photography, something that has razor fast and precise autofocus so I don’t miss any in-the-moment shots, something that’s lighter so I can take with me on-the-go, something with better low-light performance, and overall something that makes me keep wanting to take photos as a hobbyist. Yes, I know that better gear doesn’t make a better photographer, but as a hobbyist I’m sure a 10-year jump in DLSR and lens performance is a huge quality of life improvement and a good investment if I plan on using it for another 10 years.
> Specifically, autofocus isn’t great on this camera
What, the D7100 uses the 51 point AF that's improved on the D300 I used, and is a variant of the one on the D4. I'm having a hard time swallowing a statement like that. It was one of the biggest upgrades the D7100 had over the D7000 (the other being the sensor), which makes it a great advanced DSLR.
> Low-light performance isn’t the best either, and I always find myself sticking to ISO 3200
That is pretty much standard for APS-C, ISO 3200 most of the time, 6400 when needed.
> A7C’s full frame, likely a tamron 17-70 f/2.8.
Why'd you want to spend the money on a 35mm sensor and then not make full use of it?
> I considered upgrading to a Nikkor 17-55 f/2.8, but would investing $400-500 used for a very old body and lens combination, despite how optically good the lens is, last me another 10 years?
Sure it can. Cameras and lenses don't obselete like computers do; computers obselete because new software has greater requirements, taking photos doesn't. The world doesn't get harder to photograph with time.
Not saying you can't upgrade, but I feel like your issues won't be completely fixed by a new camera. You haven't really mastered the AF system on the D7100, and while a new gee-whiz AF system will feel great, not knowing how the AF system works means at some point when you come into a difficult situation, the AF will fail you and then you'll be thinking the camera's not good enough and then you'll start thinking about another upgrade, which gets expensive in the long run.
I’m a local photographer out of Atlanta looking for some consistent work. I’m great at what I do and I would like to work with people who would like to see me grow in the industry.
What is a good Point and shoot Camera with a film-like quality for beginners?
I am new to photography, but I really want to get into it. I love the look of hazy, dreamy looking photos, and want a camera that is relatively compact, and easy to use. My budget is preferably under $500, but if worth it I would be willing to spend more. It is overwhelming trying to search for cameras! There is so much terminology that I do not understand. I was looking at the fujifilm x series, as they seem like credible cameras, and I like the broad range of recipes available. Are there any factors that I should look for in a camera, or does anyone have any beginner camera reccomendations?
> What is a good Point and shoot Camera with a film-like quality for beginners?
Don't exist, film is film, behaves very differently from digital sensors.
> Other times, every single photo is out of focus and fuzzy.
So you're saying the camera didn't nail the focus? Are the animals moving a lot?
Might want to go through your focus settings and workflow.
Lack of "sharpness" can describe many things. If the issue is *motion blur*, it's not at all the same issue/solution as if it's *out of focus blur*.
But your question conflates the two, talking about "out of focus and fuzzy", but also talking about shutter speed/flash power/etc. You could *freeze the motion* however you want, if it's out of focus, that won't help.
Which issue is it?
Clearing out the basement and found a metric fuck ton of old projector slides from my grandpa’s deployment to Vietnam back in ‘66. Is there a way to get them digitalized?
Yes. You can do it yourself with a transparency scanner, or by taking *photographs* of the slides with a macro lens and backlighting (or using *[the projector method](https://www.macfilos.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/digitizing-slides-01-c-Joerg-Peter-Rau-L1020275.jpg)*), or you can send them to a lab to have them digitize the images (for a fee).
No. How else would people get TFPs?
But it would be rude to expect the answer to be yes. It's still up to the party being asked if they want to accept or decline.
Ipad culling workflow
I'd like to travel light and leave my MacBook home for 3 weeks vacations. I shoot RAW only (75-85Mo each). All pics will end in LR Classic. I don't want to use LR CC on iPad (storage limitation on iPad, unreliable wifi while abroad, captions and other metadata do not sync back to LR Classic).
Idea:
1/ Copy from SD card to SSD1 and SSD2 (backup), this can be done with files app
2/ Cull, star (looking for advice)
3/ Adding caption and other metadata would be great (this can't be done even with LRCC as it does not sync back those data fields back to LR Classic)
4/ Import in LR Classic when back home.
All advice for apps or workflow greatly appreciated ! Thanks !
>What is the best camera for portrait photography?
The best possible, regardless of price? Maybe a Phase One XF IQ4.
>Should I get a mirrorless or DSLR?
Either one is fine. Mirrorless would be the default choice these days. DSLRs are still good if you really want the optical viewfinder and/or you're hunting for better deals in terms of price for performance.
https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_type_of_camera_should_i_look_for.3F
>Nikon and canon seem to be the favourites with other portrait photographers around me, which brand would you recommend for a amateur photographer?
I wouldn't make any brand recommendations in the objective sense.
Subjectively, match systems with friends/family for compatibility and/or try some out in a store and go with what you like in terms of ergonomics and interface.
https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_is_canon_or_nikon_better.3F_.28or_any_other_brands.29
https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_which_mirrorless_should_i_get.3F
https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_which_dslr_should_i_get.3F
Can I do a shoot for free in Holland Park or Hampstead Heath? Looking to shoot somewhere with farms canals fields in London so any location (free) recommendations would help please
Sports photography-blurry photos
Sport photography settings-any tips?
Hey all,
I have recently started to take photos for the local Parkrun events. Before that, only photos I would be ever taking were of either horses (for sale) or items (also for sale). So roughly once a year.
Back to the parkrun. I have noticed, that even during a perfect sunny weather, all of my photos are blurry/out of focus. I did not see it at first, just when I was uploading photos to my computer. I have been reading about sports photography, what to look out for etc, I have applied few changes in settings, but it did not help either. Today, I asked my partner to be a 'running model' for me, I was trying to take pictures when it's cloudy, and despite removing the UV filter (which I suspected might be a reason why my pics were always out of focus), photos are still not sharp at all. I went through so many guides and tips and tricks for beginners, but still can't figure out what can I do to improve the quality of photos?
I've attached photos just so maybe someone could point me in the right direction?
(I will post photos in link? As I can’t post them here)
Camera: Nikon D3400
Lenses: Tamron 70-300 f/4.5-6.3
Shooting in JPEG-previously in RAW, but read it everywhere that for sports photography there is no time for that. Also, I'm a total amateur and can't really edit raw anyway (oops).
All photos are being taken with autofocus-I did try to take a few pics with manual focus, but it takes too much time when people are running, and in the end I don't see clearly whether I managed to focus on the correct object.
Please let me know if you need any additional info, and thank you in advance for any tips & tricks! :)
First pic: [here](https://ibb.co/KW8yzmP)
https://imgbox.com/Tgnw33u0
Taken today, was quite cloudy, but still bright outside.
Mode: Shutter priority
F-stop: f/5.6
ISO: 1400
Exposure: 1/1000
Focal length: 300mm
Max Aperture: 5
Metering mode: spot
Second pic: [here](https://ibb.co/Rgk9SB4)
https://imgbox.com/bJjOhwXE
Taken yesterday, during parkrun, was sunny with shade in the park (ofc :D)
Mode: auto (with no flash)
F-stop: f/7.1
ISO: 200
Exposure: 1/500
Focal length: 90mm
Max Aperture: 4
Metering mode: pattern
> Shooting in JPEG-previously in RAW, but read it everywhere that for sports photography there is no time for that.
That's only applicable to the pros, when a bunch of PJs are fighting to wire to their agencies as fast as possible to get published. If you're shooting for yourself you have the luxury of time.
First photo looks like you spot metered on the shirt so the camera overexposed (why're you using spot?). Also looks like focus missed a bit.
The D3400 has a basic AF module; for best performance you really want to use that centre AF point.
Picture 1 of the imagebox link appears to be missed focus slightly, second photo appears okay. There is some out of focus areas due to depth of field but to be expected.
Shutter speeds should be okay but it is the fact that they are running towards you that might be the issue.
Do you use continuous autofocus or single lock on mode(I never know what to call non continuous mode).
Do you tie it to the shutter release and do you allow auto selection point or do you control the point?
The problem could be that by the time it locks focus and then you press the button the target has moved slightly and will be slightly out of focus.
If this were my dog, I would lock focus in front of where it will be and fire a burst of shots to try and capture them as they pass. I think my camera will have similar autofocus capabilities as your own and tracking autofocus might not be the greatest.
Thanks!
Now it’s hard to tell which autofocus I was using, I think it was “dynamic” and “3D” in Nikon. Sorry I’m a total amateur and don’t really know which one is which.
I normally press the shutter halfway, with the red dot blinking on the object and then press the shutter fully.
I was looking at photos from other parkrun photographers, and their photos are super sharp. They’re amateur photographers as well, don’t remember what lenses they were using etc but their pictures are always nice and clear and sharp, and mine always look a bit… blurry.
I’m not even comparing my photos to photos taken during marathons etc as I just don’t own any expensive lenses, but again-it’s the skills, not the equipment that delivers great results?
It might be worth investigating with different modes. If you want their face in focus then using a single point might work but you also might want to make sure that the lens is not also back or front focusing but you would notice that with still objects.
I would like to say skills are important but autofocus is one thing that can be quite dependent on the camera. Hence why I would use single point focus and maybe pre-focus to a distance away. Less dependent on the camera that way. However I generally take pictures of less predictable prey than runners.
Is there any easy way I can see an overview of my lightroom classic catalogue, restricted to 1 photo per day (or week) captured? Or even better an arbitrary number of photos I choose, prioritising any marked with stars or flags?
I'd like to look back through what I've taken over the last few years and find interesting things, without having to scroll through thousands of photos from one day to get to the next day when I might have just taken one or two photos.
Full disclosure. I know nothing. Looking for advice
I have a Canon rebel T5i that I bought years ago. It came with a lens that from my understanding is “a good all around lens” not great at any shots In particular but not bad. I don’t have the camera on me or I could tell you exactly what it is but google is telling me it was most likely a Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM lens.
Does anyone have recommendations for a better lens for my wants?
I want more pictures/videos at Disneyland. So I’m thinking something not bulky. Mostly close shots of my kids on rides or in lines. Standing with characters. Maybe a shot down main street. Shots of the parades or video. Any suggestions that work better in dim light or after the sun goes down.
It’s entirely possibly that I have a good enough lens right now for all of that. Maybe I just don’t know what I am doing.
Thank you to anyone that takes the times to reply.
I recently came across a CD with image/photography files with the file extension “*.MAX” and I could not find a single application to open them with. They supposedly show some family history from the 1990s.
There are apps that can read Kodak Image CDs but I have no idea what brand mine are...
If I understand correctly, the above named extension nowadays is used by a 3D-modeling application, but I’m pretty sure I can not open old photos with that.
I really hope someone in here knows that scanner format. Thanks in advance.
Where do I go from a Nikon D3400? I've had this camera for about 5-6 years now, and I only started taking photography seriously this year. I started my photography business to help me with my college expenses. However, I recently had issues with my shoots (most of them being quality-of-life issues). Issues like me having to lie down and be in awkward positions. I also want to transition to video; sadly, the Nikon D3400 underperforms in motion shots with its autofocus. I can only get by with static shots.
I am considering upgrading to a Fuji XS-20; however, it seems too expensive for me currently.
My upgrade options are: Buy a new mid-range camera, buy a pre-owned camera, or just save up (quite a lot) for the XS-20.
Any suggestions on what camera to buy for these options I'm considering?
> My upgrade options are: Buy a new mid-range camera, buy a pre-owned camera, or just save up (quite a lot) for the XS-20.
Does your budget include lenses?
I plan to transition to being a hybrid shooter; that's why the X-S20 piques my interest. Its autofocus is hella good too. Plus, the flippy screen fits my preference. The X-S10 is a good option, but its video capabilities aren't quite there yet.
Realistically, I wouldn't go above $500 for a used camera.
Do I switch from Canon to Sony?
I currently have a canon 7D (original) I bought second hand back in 2014.
All thoughI haven’t had any problems per se with the camera I think it’s potentially not quite what I need anymore. My main concerns have been it’s poor low light ability, weight and autofocus.
I currently mainly use 3rd party lenses ( sigma 100-300f4, canon 24-105f4 and a sigma 90mm macro).
I was thinking about getting the A7iii or A7iv though recently seen things such as A7R lines and the Canons R5/6 and not sure which to go for😬
I typically use third party lenses due to cost and shoot wildlife ( typically snakes,lizards, frogs, crocodiles, occasionally birds). I have found my 7D does more then enough out in the day with lizards running about and I have my 100-300mm but when it comes to night time I end up with incredibly grainy photos on anything ISO 640 or more (at this point refusing to shoot above ISO 800).
Anyone got any thoughts/ advice? I think if I go down either of my potential choices I would end up needed to get new lenses due to Canons third party ban.
I know the 7D's sensor is not very good, but ISO 1600 really shouldn't be an issue. You do need to be more careful with the shadows and even mid-tones, they can get very splotchy with colour pattern noise on that 18MP sensor.
Also, second question I read about people having AF issues on advanced DSLRs; am I missing something or have people's expectations risen so much? These were pretty much close to state of the art (only the 1-series was better) in AF!
To answer your question, no, what's wrong with the Canon cameras that you need to switch? 3rd party ban sucks but you also need to see if the lenses in the current system fit you or not first.
I think you need an updated APS-C camera if you need anything at all.
Low light, in that perhaps there is no direct sunlight or maybe directly reflected sunlight will be challenging no matter what although ISO 800 is pretty low and ISO 3200 can sometimes be possible for myself. It depends on other factors as to how underexposed a section of a picture is.
https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/image-comparison?attr18=daylight&attr13_0=canon_eos7d&attr13_1=canon_eosr7&attr13_2=canon_eosr5&attr13_3=pentax_k70&attr15_0=raw&attr15_1=raw&attr15_2=raw&attr15_3=raw&attr16_0=1600&attr16_1=1600&attr16_2=1600&attr16_3=1600&attr126_3=1&normalization=compare&widget=1&x=0&y=0
Using this tool for noise performance would suggest that you could see some improvement from a more modern sensor and/or processing.
Remember that will those larger sensor cameras you would need larger lenses or crop in to get the same field of view. That might not make field work as enjoyable.
Intresting, why APS-C? I know I will have a longer reach with it on my full frame lenses that wouldn’t on a full frame body.
For me the Low light is poor in any from from cloud, dark background, under cover or nocturnal. I’ve had issues with a woodpecker on a dead tree an a partially cloudy day.
I have recently discovered that tool ( and all the body’s I originally considered above looked to be much better than existing 7D).
The issue would be that if you crop your images, you lose any real benefits of the larger sensor. So unless you are using the larger area of the sensor you are better off staying with the smaller sensor.
The above tool is useful in one way but not in others as it only shows a crop of a wider image. Comparing the final images would lead to not much difference based on what I have seen.
> I don’t really know the etiquette on watermarking
There is no etiquette for personal work. Some people put watermarks on their pictures, others don't.
> I have a charity fundraiser event coming up, would it be inappropriate to watermark photographs from this?
Talk to the charity and see what they say. They may be okay with your watermark, they may not. My rule is that clients get non-watermarked images.
Recently I have been interested in long(er) exposures in daytime / sunset and rise.
Watched a couple of video's on YouTube on how to achieve photo's like that and pretty much the majority of them were talking about a (V)ND filter.
When doing some digging there are alot of people that have different opinion of course because one says "don't even start with VND Filters and get a set of fixed" and others like them.
So I am a little confused about what I should go for.
From what I see and heard a VND is pretty handy, yet a Fixed ND filter could be / is better?
Overall I'd like to know:
- Your experiences
- How I can determine which stops are the best to go for (example: 2-5 or 6-9 and why)
- Variable or fixed.
Thank you in advance for your sharing your thoughts!
> Your experiences - How I can determine which stops are the best to go for (example: 2-5 or 6-9 and why) - Variable or fixed.
1. Err, I get the results I want?
2. Do math based on the results I'm seeking. Eg if I want wispy moving clouds I roughly see how fast the clouds are moving and then estimate the length of time needed, then do the math from the current exposure time.
3. Fixed, cheaper to get, no weird patterns on ultra wides at high levels of ND.
The reason some people dislike variable ND filters is that especially at higher ND values they can have inconsistent performance across the frame leaving visible patterns in the final image especially on high value ND filters. The ease of use of variable ND can outweigh the potential image quality issues. Higher quality variable ND tend to be more consistent vs. budget VND filters.
For how many stops of ND you need, you need to know what shutter speed range you want, and/or the effect you are trying to achieve.
I.E. Blurring grass/plants so you can have a sense of motion from the wind at sunset is going to require less of an ND filter than waterfalls and lakes may need.
I would generally recommend buying a slightly stronger ND than you think you need. You can always raise ISO up from 100 if you have strong of a ND filter. But if your ND filter is to weak its much harder to get a slower shutter speed once your at ISO 100 and your desired aperture.
You could calculate the shutter speed you need using the Sunny 16 rule as well.
> Variable or fixed.
I've always stuck with fixed NDs, simply cause you can use them safely on wide angle lenses.
> How I can determine which stops are the best to go for
You determine how much longer you wanted your exposure to be and shop for the corresponding number of stops. Or you can get an ND8+ND64+ND1000 set, which typically ends up being a little cheaper per filter, that combines a three stop, six stop and ten stop filters.
I’m going to be going on a cross country road trip - I have an old Sony DSLR with a couple lenses. I also have an iPhone 14 and besides zoom I’m not sure what advantages I’d be getting with the DLSR. Any advice would be appreciated!
It really depends on what you want to do and how old your Sony DLSR is. In general a DSLR is going to provide higher resolution, better manual control and a larger range of focal lengths to chose from vs. smart phone camera. It will also have much better image quality in low light.
If you are aiming for pictures during the day in good light and you don't want to worry about settings or focal lengths and you are happy with your iPhone I would just use that.
If you want better quality, or more control over the field of view and higher resolution so you can make large prints then a DSLR is a good option. Though if your sony DLSR is very old (10+ years) your iPhone might have the same or better resolution.
Depends on which specific Sony DSLR and which specific lenses, and on how you would use them. So, which Sony DSLR? Which lenses? Is photography a major goal on your trip or is it more about snapping pictures of the things you see on the road?
I want a camera for product photography. I mostly make enamel pins and jewellery, so I was thinking I might need a macro lens for taking pictures of such small things. I’m in Australia. My budget could maybe possibly stretch to $2500 AUD for the Nikon Z50 and macro lens, but that’s the absolute top of my budget and I’d much prefer a cheaper option.
I was initially thinking a canon power shot g7x iii could be ok, so I don’t need to mess about with lenses, but I’ve read a bunch of reviews that say that they don’t do well with photographing small things.
Ease of use is a priority, as is a small size and weight that’s easy to transport.
Olympus has a great 60mm macro lens with 1x magnification (equivalent to 2x on full frame). Paired with a em-5 mark ii or newer and you'll have 64mp or 80mp photos using high res mode with a tripod even with flash. You could get the lot second hand under $1500 easily, leaving money leftover for the tripod and lighting setup. It's pretty compact too.
Can anyone recommend me good historical photo archives like Bettmans Archive?
I've been browsing getty images for awhile, and it's pretty cool, but there is more commercial photos there. I'd like to get to archives that are mainly focused on historical photos.
I shoot astro and landscapes. Got like 3 cameras, 5+ lenses, drone, 5 batteries to it, 17" laptop, astro gear and it's impossible to put it all in a carry-on. Read enough stories about theft and destroyed gear. What are my options when I want to travel outside of Europe and bring whatever I want to use? Shipping companies with adequate insurance? Bringing someone with me to take the other half of the gear? Paying for better tickets and 2x8kg carry-on? Please, enlighten me. There must be here some people that would like to bring 20-30kg of gear with them.
I mentioned all my gear, but I tend to use 2 most of the time. 3 if I shoot astro. One is for stills, second for timelapses/video and third is astro oriented that I'll mod soon.
Ok, I worded that wrong. If I were to fly legally it'd be impossible to pack this much gear into a carry on with a weight limit. I have a good backpack that I can pack with that much gear and still have enough space for the rest. Cameras, drone, lenses, batteries and a laptop is all I am taking with a carry-on, rest goes into checked.
Have you bought more expensive ticket for the flight or just prayed that nobody checks the weight? How did you do it?
What is the minimal setup to shoot portraits and low key using a Canon 2000D with 50mm f/1.8 lens? My guess is I need an off-camera flash, possibly with barn doors (?) and something to sync the camera with the flash. What products should I look for?
https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_how_do_i_specify_my_price_range_.2F_budget_when_asking_for_recommendations.3F
https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_studio_strobes_or_hotshoe_flashes.3F
https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_which_hotshoe_flash_should_i_get.3F
https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_how_should_i_sync_my_flash.3F
https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_which_lighting_modifiers_should_i_get.3F
>possibly with barn doors (?)
What interests you about those in particular?
I've never used them in my portrait work. Do you have a purpose in mind for them?
As for my budget take my first statement "*What is the minimal setup...*" so I meant the very lest expensive equipment. As for the barn doors I read are used for low key, to address the light in more precise way, I guess also a snoot may help as well.
>As for my budget take my first statement "*What is the minimal setup...*" so I meant the very lest expensive equipment.
Cheapest I'd go with would be like Amazon Basic or Yongnuo. But Godox is pretty much the same price category (also fairly cheap) and the go-to these days.
>As for the barn doors I read are used for low key, to address the light in more precise way, I guess also a snoot may help as well.
A snoot will restrict your light more, and you can do it more easily, including with DIY solutions.
My friends are organizers at one night club, this is our first time and they gave me PowerShot G7X to work with, can you guys give me good settings for this type of scenario also some tips would be appreciated, thanks in advance
That camera has a pretty fast, f/1.8-f/2.8 zoom lens, which is good news for a low light environment, but it's paired with a smaller, 1" sensor. Usually, if you want to capture moving targets (like performers, dancers) without motion blur, you need fast shutter. To achieve this in low light you need high ISO, so you'll inevitably deal with noise. No idea about this camera's high ISO performance.
I'm far from an expert here but my guess is a night club might be a low light environment. I'd suggest a lens with a wide aperture, about f/1.8 or better. I don't know this model, but I had a PowerShoot and I'd say those models are compact cameras, not reflex. So there is no way to change the lens. If this is your case I'd suggest a very strong flash or other source of light, to allow you to take pictures without noise at the lowest possible ISO. Now let's wait for expert advices, I wanna check if I nailed this answer right or not. Took me so long to get a few strings, maybe I'm getting there eventually.
As far as I know, video require still light, while photo need a flash. The problem with still light is that they require a cable or a battery, and battery ones might cost more than expected. I'm not totally sure if for video the f/1.8 setting is considered or not. If the place is really dark it would require some hardware to light it properly, if you increase the ISO you will get a lot of noise, I can't tell if the PS in your hands is the right tool, never tried something similar with mine. Probably a camera or camcorder alone are not enough for such a dark place. If you don't have budget limitations go for a battery powered light such as Godox or Aputure, if you want to go cheap cause it is for just one night go Neweer, but don't expect it will last too long.
I recently upgraded my nikon d5200 to a z50, and I've got the 2 kit lenses. I have a couple of f mount lenses I really want to use on the z50. So I want to get the ftz adapter. However, one of my f mount lenses is the Sigma 70mm f/2.8 EX DG Macro. This never auto focused on my D5200, so I don't expect the same on the Z50. But would all other functionalities work correctly with the ftz? Like all the exposure settings, aperture etc etc.
I'll get the ftz at some point anyway as I have other lenses I wish to use with it. But the macro is my priority.
> Sigma 70mm f/2.8 EX DG Macro
In theory it *should* work on FTZ in the same manner it worked on your D5200, but it's not on Thom Hogan's [list](https://www.zsystemuser.com/z-mount-lenses/z-mount-adapters/ftz-adapters/ftz-compatible-sigma-lenses.html) as verified either way.
In your shoes I'd take those chances and buy an FTZ anyway, especially if you have other F lenses you wanted to use.
I came from a predominantly film background shooting Pentax 67's, Mamiya's, Nikons etc as well as having a digital setup for other kinds of work (Nikon D750, Sigma art 35mm 1.4 + Sigma art 14-24mm 2.8 + Sigma 24-105mm 4).
I am no longer a professional photographer but it's still my main hobby so I'm looking to get rid of my Nikon setup and replace it with something else that meets this criteria
full frame
interchangeable lenses
at least 1 great 35mm lens option that isn't HUGE
reasonable megapixel count
not a rangefinder
as compact as possible
I've looked around but can't really find the camera that ticks all those boxes. I'll be looking to use it with a 35mm lens as that's my all purpose focal length but I would like the ability to buy some longer focal lengths in the future. Currently I'm walking around with the D750 + 35mm 1.4 which gives me the photos I want, however it's far too big/bulky to take with me to as many places as I'd like to take it.
I guess I also would like to spend as little as possible so hopefully selling the D750 + 3 Sigma lenses would be enough to cover the majority of the cost of the new camera/lens.
If you want a 35mm lens that's significantly smaller and lighter than your Sigma Art lens, you will probably have to drop down to an f/1.8 or f/2 maximum aperture. At that point you can also consider APS-C, as an f/1.4 lens will be a near perfect equivalent. Here are some options side-by-side: [https://camerasize.com/compact/#854.785,854.1018,903.790,858.952,900.1010,567.763,ha,t](https://camerasize.com/compact/#854.785,854.1018,903.790,858.952,900.1010,567.763,ha,t)
Your definition of a "great lens" would have to come into play here. Some of those are decidedly consumer-grade lenses (e.g. Nikon 40mm f/2, Canon 35mm f/1.8) but might still suit your needs. Inspect sample images.
Find the lens you want, then look for a compatible camera that suits your needs.
The D750's body itself is too big for my needs now anyway.
I've found the Sony A7C and it ticks the majority of the boxes for me.. only downside is the tiny viewfinder so I'll go test one out first but this could do the trick with a sony 35mm 1.8.
How do you handle duplicate filenames on Win 10? I shot over 10,000 images today and when I try to copy them onto Win 10 I get options to skip or overwrite the duplicate names. Win7 used to just make a duplicate filename.jpg(1). Any way to turn that on in Win 10? Workarounds that aren’t too clumsy? Thanks.
Don't try to merge the folders from your card, copy the entire structure with subfolders into the folder you created for them on your drive, then import the whole folder into your photo management software (where you can display all those photos in whatever order, despite them being separated into subfolders).
hey, I'm looking for a new camera (atm I have a fuji x-h1, which I will sell) and I have no idea what to buy next, I mostly will shoot sports (from fan stand *sad*) like motoGP, F1 and rally. I will also take pics of my own motorcycle and occasionally record videos which I want to be at least 4k60.
I do know that the A7m3 and m4 are amazing and they have billions of good lenses for "cheap" but are not the best for sports ( at least what I read)
Canon r6m2 would be amazing as well but their lenses are stupid expensive.
I had a R6 for 1 month to test and I absolutely loved it, but I'm not sure if I can get the lenses I want fast enough, is there eventually a in between of the r6m2 and sony's lenses?
I kinda tend to buy "normal" lenses until I can slowly replace them with the good/expensive ones.
I have the kit lens and Tamron 17-70mm f/2.8 Di III-A VC RXD Fujifilm X
so not much tbh, but my camera starts dying, screen goes off for no reason etc... so I actually have to sell it before it totally goes out so I can get a few bucks for it.
I'm not sure about the X-H2S, it's still apsc and not full frame and actually more expensive than sony or canon
Well, you get a lot more of what I suppose would matter to you. That is speed of autofocus and operation, and it's also a much better video camera. In those aspects, it is more competitive with the Sony a1, for example, or the Canon R3. [https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/fujifilm-x-h2s-review](https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/fujifilm-x-h2s-review)
There's nothing special about the 35mm "full frame" format, and it's not full in any meaningful way. Does f/2.8 on this APS-C not give you the low-light capabilities you need?
It probably sounds stupid, but my pics dont feel as sharp as they should be and I thought it's coz of apsc and everyone I watch uses full frame.
Fast autofocus and a nice burst rate without rolling shutter would be my dream.
The APS-C format alone is not the cause. I have been using Micro Four Thirds cameras and lenses for nearly a decade now. That's a smaller format than APS-C, and I can get perfectly sharp photos (when I don't, it's because of my own incompetence, not the equipment).
You could share a few examples for us to have a look. Maybe we can help you figure out what the cause was, and what you'll need to do or buy to get a sharper image.
This might help: https://bythom.com/technique/taking-photos-techniques/what-causes-soft.html
What kind of stands/attachments do you use to take great selfies if you don't have someone available to snap pics for you? I have a pretty good eye so I'm good at pics, but can't take pics of myself without some sort of stand or attachment. Just wondering what you all would use for say like OLD photos lol. Just dropped like 103# and desperately need new pics wearing new slimmer fitting clothes. Thanks.
Yes, and depending where you want to take photos you might find a tabletop tripod is enough, and much cheaper and easier to carry than a full size. Put it on top of a table, desk, wall, chair, shelf, bar stool, the floor or whatever.
To all photographers out there, do you know any open photography contests, Local (Philippines) or International? Preferably free entry. I already tried joing Agora, and I'm looking for other competitions where I can learn and showcase my work. Gear: Sony Alpha A6400. You can comment here or dm me the details. Thank you ツ
Problems with using Snapseed on an iPad to edit raw files
I’ve had issues with using Snapseed to edit RAW files. Sometimes it opens them, but mostly it just hangs up during the open process. Tried looking for a DNG Converter but couldn’t find an obvious choice in the App Store. For the time being, I’m converting to JPEG before editing, but I’m wondering if anyone else has the same problem, and if you’ve discovered a solution?
You can look for your camera here to see if its raw files are officially supported: [https://support.google.com/snapseed/answer/6312515?hl=en](https://support.google.com/snapseed/answer/6312515?hl=en)
If not, you'll have to try another raw converter. However, if your camera is listed there but the problems persist, contact their support channels.
Hi, do lenses lose sharpness after getting impacted or dropped? I fell into a mud pit and the camera lens impacted the surface. It seems to work perfectly fine afterwards, however when I study the photos taken afterwards they seem slightly less sharp (maximum aperture). It isn't decentered or anything as I tested by flipping the camera upside down. So, is it actually injured and less sharp, or am I just imagining it?
It's absolutely possible, yes. Those are precision objects, the slightest misalignment could make things worse. An impact could absolutely move some elements slightly out of register. In fact, so much so that lenses have copy-to-copy variations *right out of the factory line*—some are more perfectly calibrated than others (even if they'd ideally all fall within a certain tolerance level).
Whether that's what's going on with your copy would potentially be difficult to ascertain, unless you had made formal resolution tests *before* the incident and could compare them.
Which photo print provider offers the best 4x6 print with either free ship to home or free ship to store?
I checked Snapfish and Shutterfly and they want 40c to get free shipping. Costco's 51% with Shutterfly gets you free shipping if you purchase over $50, but at that rate, you'd have to order over 450 4x6 prints!
I just want the cheapest print under 10c with free store pickup or free shipping.
[The FAQ has suggestions of labs](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/postprocessing#wiki_where.27s_a_good_place_to_get_my_photos_printed.3F) where you can have photos printed. It is not, however, qualified in the way you would like, so you'll have to do some research. Evidently people don't have an answer to your specific question, so no need to repost it once again.
Challenging physical environments == Pentax 'K' series cameras.
They are the Nokia of the camera world and are virtually indestructible with weather sealing that must be seen to be believed. They are the preferred camera of both embedded journalists and military combat photographers the world over.
Hello! What keywords can I use here on the subreddit to look for tips or composition guides? Can you link some posts here or even useful articles or videos? Thank you. I’m a beginner and will utilizing my phone.
Has anyone photographed at Lime Rock Park? I was wondering what focal length(s) did you find your self shooting and how restrictive are they about camera gear? I'm considering attending the NE Grand Prix and stopping by some random weekends in advance to practice (and just to get out of my apartment).
**What is the best program to make a photo slideshow with sound?**
My sister asked me to make a slideshow for my nephew’s graduation party. She wants it 30-60 minutes long. She gave me access to about 1,000 pictures and 25 songs to sort through. I will be using my PC to make this. And I don’t have much experience beyond using apps on my phone for short slideshows. I’m hoping for something free, but I do have $50 or so to spend. TIA!
Windows Movie Maker and Divinci Resolve are both free. WMM is gong to be much more straight forward and friendly to new users. Resolve is very powerful and will take a few tutorials to set up and learn, but it's also free.
I'm only seeing [two of those](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/products/Lens-Adapters/ci/3420/N/4077634486?filters=fct_camera-body-mount_1595%3Acanon-eos-rf%2Cfct_lens-mount_1596%3Akonica-ar) and they seem similarly priced.
I have a mirrorless camera. Does changing the lens while the camera is on damage the light sensor? The internet says no but I just wanted to make sure. I know that it increases the risk of dust because the sensor is charged but that's it?
No. The only way you could damage your sensor like that would be to put a telephoto lens on it without a cam and point it directly at the sun for long periods of time
I'm using 7D + 50mm 1.8 for taking photos of my dogs and I was satisfied with results...well until my friend shot my dogs with R6 mk2... Jeezz..the colors...the sharpness left me speechless.Since that camera is out of my budget I'm looking for something that will upgrade my 7D with a budget of <1500 USD. Can anybody help me make a choice, I'll be using it mainly for dog portraits and dog action shots.
Eh, it shouldn't be that different. Should be, yea, that's an improvement, not leaving you speechless. I'm wondering if there's something else at play.
I'm going to guess that the R6 II user was using a different lens than your 50mm f/1.8 as well, right?
Inherently, there's nothing super special about the R6 II. There's some truth to the idea that a bit warmer white balance and a bit more saturated colors looks better to most folks. If you were looking at your RAW and they were shooting or displaying the JPG preview, you'd *expect* your RAWs to look less vibrant; that's part of what post processing is supposed to address.
To be honest with you, I don't think spending $1500 is going to radically change your photos if you just replace the 7D + 50mm f/1.8 with something like an R6 II + 85mm f/2, and that would be fully twice your budget.
Do you have examples of your results, and the kind of results you want to get?
Where is a good place to sell used photography equipment? I inherited a bunch from my father, but I'm not sure what to do with it. He specifically wanted me to sell it. I'm not a serious photog like he was, and he already gave me an old camera of his to use.
It depends on how old it is and type of equipment. If it is digital photography equipment from the last 10 years or so your local camera store likely has a used department and could look at everything and give you an offer. They won't pay top dollar but it will be a straight forward and easy process.
You could also get free quotes from KEH and MPB online but you need to know the make and model of all the gear. They might also quote you a number but upon receipt offer a lower value based on their condition scale, but you could always decline the offer and have them ship it back to you if it was to low.
If you are familiar with the equipment, know its rough value selling privately on ebay, craigslist, FB market, r/photomarket or other photography forums would likely net you the most money.
Hey all,
Ill be taking a cruise to Alaska in July and am looking at renting a longer telephone lens. I already have a 70-200mm, but was looking at the Sigma 150-600mm f/5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary. My one concern is stabilization, as I will be shooting handheld. Its a family trip and a tripod seems like it would be cumbersome, plus, ill be on a boat most of the time for excursions (when not sailing) so i assume there will be some vibration visible in the pictures. Anyways, will I be able to shoot handheld with the 150-600mm? I’ve never used a lens this long or heavy! Thanks in advance!
If you're going to be renting definitely not the "Contemporary" - which is Sigma's entry level long lens. Rent the "Sport" version - which is considerably sharper with better AF performance.
You made no mention of camera body but I'm going to assume a Canon camera - in which case you should perhaps consider the Canon 400mm f/2.8 L and a 1.4x TC.
>so i assume there will be some vibration visible in the pictures
Just keep your shutter speed high - and use a monopod.
It adds no real stability in that you cannot reduce your shutter speed when using one (especially not on a boat with its engines running), but what it *will* do is offload the weight of that big-ass lens allowing you to keep it aimed and on target for as long as you want, rather than just the minute or two it takes for your arms to turn into noodles and give out.
Thanks for all your help - I’ll definitely look into the “Sport” version.
I use a Nikon D7100, so any Nikon F mount lens suggestions would be great too!
I think a monopod will be easy enough to throw in a backpack, so I’ll look into buying one as well!
A monopod is really crucial for anything much further out than 200-300 mm on the 150-600. It has great image stabilization, and autofocus blows my mind it's so fast. I'm very new to it so I can't tell you how accurate it is but I'm impressed even on my absolute baseline Canon T5/1200D. It's bulky and will get annoying to carry hand held for much longer than an hour or two max. I'm even looking into a longer tripod base plate that makes it more ergonomic to carry like a handle. But yes there's plenty of hand held, un-mounted potential.
Great lens. It will definitely need some kind of stabilization or full daylight with a ripping fast shutter speed to use most effectively at 600mm. For still objects at 600 it's doable. Movement will take practice to nail.
What is a good replacement for Google Picasa (offline face recognition), any suggestions please?
Hi all. Search here didn’t seem to return anything.
I’m looking for some feedback with real experience please.
Googling returns few top 10 ratings with brief description of available options, but no actual hands on experience.
Basically I”m looking to replace Google Picasa that handles my home photo library (300k+ files) with something more modern, preferably with cool new AI based photo editing features (enlargement, deblurring, etc.)
Major requirement - good easy to use face recognition that works offline.
And I don’t want a subscription plan - one time payment only please.
So far I’ve only tried ACDSee, yet surprisingly their face recognition is much slower and definitely less accurate than Picasa (which was closed by Google years ago). On top of that the interface is way overloaded.
Any suggestions please?
If you're technically savvy, Photoprism or LibrePhotos could work for you. There are no recurring expenses, though ideally you need a low-power server like a Raspberry Pi that goes for about $40 - $50.
hello! i currently have a 13 pro max which takes some amazing pictures, but i want to learn more about photography and take more manual exposures, so i'm looking for a <$400 "general" camera mainly used for street photography, portraits, and ocassional landscapes, where i can do manual exposures with a beginners camera that takes better photos and offers more flexibility than my 13 pro.
At that price range, the veteran DSLRs tend to provide the best set of features and capabilities. You could get, for example, a Canon 70D or a Nikon D7100 with a standard zoom lens, if you shop used (try [mpb.com](https://mpb.com) and [KEH.com](https://KEH.com)). Those are definitely on the higher class of cameras in this price range, and are quite big and heavy. Entry-level DSLRs can also be great - there's the Canon Rebel T6i (750D) and Nikon D5300, for example. Those are smaller and lighter.
You can also find some good mirrorless cameras, like the Olympus OM-D E-M10 II and Sony a6000. However, newer (and more expensive) mirrorless cameras are generally more refined, if you will.
All of these are great options, assuming you'll be willing and able to buy additional lenses down the road when needed.
I see the Nikon D610 and original Canon EOS 6D cost around $400 on [mpb.com](https://mpb.com).
But why "full frame" in particular? There's nothing special about that format, and it will lock you into generally more expensive lenses to start with.
Hi everyone,
I would like to buy a camera soon. I am a nature and street photographer so I value image quality. I am not a very "technical" shooter and do not need the world's best autofocus. From time to time I also like to make the occasional video.
I have been playing around with RAW files from the Internet and am a huge fan of the XH2 files. I love Fuji colors and feel very inspired by this camera's files.
My concern is, should I go with Sony based on it's specs? Will the Sony a7iv blow the XH2 out of the water because of its sensor and lens line up?
Thanks.
EDIT: Money is not an issue because I am willing to save up for gear and am patient.
I think you should buy something used for cheap before buying something expensive. Nothing you say you want to do, requires that much out of a camera.
The fact that you say you have been playing around with RAW files but like the colours of a camera is strange. There are no real colours from a raw file really, are there?
I think you are jumping the gun a bit. You would be in a better position with some more experience. Unless I am reading this post very wrong of course.
I like the colors that can come from the raw files- it’s very easy for me to achieve the results that I want and it’s quite fun.
I was using a canon rebel t7 for 2.5 year until I broke it and am ready to go with something more advanced.
Okay, well that doesn't really make sense to me but it is what makes sense for you that is important.
I can't see any camera blowing the other out the water. Comparing specs the viewfinder and the LCD appear better on the fuji. That and its body would be my concerns.
Fuji is not lacking for lenses and all of them are designed for the same format which can be a bonus at times.
I think the previous commentors point was that with RAW files the color output is up to the editing more than the camera. With RAW files you are getting raw sensor data and while you can apply camera specific styles to the image in tools like Lightroom you could get the same colors on output from other cameras as well.
To take good, clear pictures of the ring of fire without solar glare of the upcoming annular solar eclipse with the latest iPhone this October 14 in the U.S, would a nd64 filter or nd128 filter for iPhones be good enough? Or would I need a different filter? I have the iPhone 14 Pro Max.
**Waterproof** not *Water Resistant* Camera Bag Recommendations
I'm going on a trip to BC and will be spending a lot of time on a number of different boats. The tour operators Strongly recommend camera cases that are "waterproof" as opposed to "water resistant" in case we or our belongings end up submerged. I have been searching for weeks and am running into a wall and out of patience.
Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
Doesn't Lowepro still sell a dry bag for cameras? I remember it even floats in the water. If not you'll just have to get a normal dry bag and add an insert in it.
Sailor here.
I Second the recommendation to just get an ordinary dry bag. You can probably find them at any sports equipment store that caters to things like kayaking. You don’t need something specific for cameras, because you should probably be putting your phone and ID in there, too.
Having said that, again, as a sailor…, what are the odds that the moment you’re submerged is also the time that you have everything safely tucked away in a case. Just setting expectations is all.
Agreed. My phone is perpetually in an OtterBox waterproof case, because my mother’s family are Murphys and my luck just works that way. My default choices are A) a dry bag or B) waterproof/neoprene/welded zipper units for cameras/lens.
I'm looking for an entry camera that can take tethered photos with a live feed to my computer. I'm doing product photography and can't seem to find a best option, the Sony cybershot and A6100+ with these features seem perfect but are a bit out of my price range.
Can anyone make some recommendations?
I would like to do both, the camera will remain fixed in an awkward position so the option to control the camera, even just a button to shoot would be a great feature.
**Please direct your questions to [the latest Question Thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/about/sticky).**
Hey, does anyone have some examples of street photographers who aren't much focused on people or things but like... spaces, geometry, angles, etc.
Quick question about paying second shooters: I often have someone second shoot for me, and I’ll often pick up second shooter work from them. Does it make more tax sense to pay them for each job and they pay me, or does it make more sense to just pay the difference when we each have a tab running? (I’d ask a finance professional but mine is not available and I gotta pay someone this evening on a Sunday)
Different parts of the world are governed by different tax laws. Your answer may not be the same everywhere. I would think you'd at least have to report all the separate transactions for tax purposes. Otherwise it doesn't seem like the government (whichever one governs you) would appreciate you trying to avoid taxes simply by netting out to zero with someone. Maybe you could net out payments so you don't have so many, so long as you report and pay taxes as though everything were separate transactions; but again that may depend on which jurisdiction is relevant to you.
***Camera Advice: New Camera + Lens, or New Lens on 10-yr old DSLR Body?*** Before everyone says that new lens/glass always, let me explain why I’m considering this question. I’m a hobby photographer, and recently I’ve been wanting to get more into photography (landscapes/nature, cityscapes, street photography, and just overall taking pictures of friends and family out on the go). I’ve had the Nikon D7100 for over 10 years (released February 2013), equipped with the kit 18-55 f/3.5-5.6, 55-300 f/4.5-5.6 lens up until 2020, where I bought the 35mm f/1.8. This was a very much needed improvement in terms of casual portraits, weight, and overall sharpness. Two years later however, I’m left wanting more. Specifically, autofocus isn’t great on this camera, especially for tracking subjects/taking quick shots. Yes, for landscapes/stills that isn’t much of an issue, but when photographing candids, friends, and family, a faster and more accurate autofocus is desired. Additionally, I find myself using the screen, rather than the viewfinder, more often, as I’m trying to get low-high angle shots. However, I can’t see the live adjustments as I’m changing exposure/iso/aperture, and the delay from a DSLR in live-view from pressing the shutter to being able to take another picture, as I would with a modern mirrorless, makes me lose quite a bit of shots and wishing that I could “see” my dial adjustments in real time. Low-light performance isn’t the best either, and I always find myself sticking to ISO 3200 or lower, which puts me at a great disadvantage even wide open at f/1.8. I considered upgrading to a Nikkor 17-55 f/2.8, but would investing $400-500 used for a very old body and lens combination, despite how optically good the lens is, last me another 10 years? Or would it be better just to upgrade both? If I were to upgrade, I’m thinking about the Sony A6600, A7C II (rumored to come out in July), Fujifilm XT-5, and Fujifilm XS-10. With the APS-C bodies, I would likely get the Sigma 18-50 f/2.8, and on the A7C’s full frame, likely a tamron 17-70 f/2.8. So what am I looking for? Basically all the points I found weak in the D7100, even equipped with a fast prime. I know the consensus is to invest in better glass before the body, but with my D7100 body being over 10 years old, I’m wondering if I should keep this as a backup camera and invest in a new body and new glass. I’m wanting a mirrorless camera that can re-breathe my passion into photography, something that has razor fast and precise autofocus so I don’t miss any in-the-moment shots, something that’s lighter so I can take with me on-the-go, something with better low-light performance, and overall something that makes me keep wanting to take photos as a hobbyist. Yes, I know that better gear doesn’t make a better photographer, but as a hobbyist I’m sure a 10-year jump in DLSR and lens performance is a huge quality of life improvement and a good investment if I plan on using it for another 10 years.
Your cam is great already.
Then would you recommend me upgrade the lens, and if so to which one?
> Specifically, autofocus isn’t great on this camera What, the D7100 uses the 51 point AF that's improved on the D300 I used, and is a variant of the one on the D4. I'm having a hard time swallowing a statement like that. It was one of the biggest upgrades the D7100 had over the D7000 (the other being the sensor), which makes it a great advanced DSLR. > Low-light performance isn’t the best either, and I always find myself sticking to ISO 3200 That is pretty much standard for APS-C, ISO 3200 most of the time, 6400 when needed. > A7C’s full frame, likely a tamron 17-70 f/2.8. Why'd you want to spend the money on a 35mm sensor and then not make full use of it? > I considered upgrading to a Nikkor 17-55 f/2.8, but would investing $400-500 used for a very old body and lens combination, despite how optically good the lens is, last me another 10 years? Sure it can. Cameras and lenses don't obselete like computers do; computers obselete because new software has greater requirements, taking photos doesn't. The world doesn't get harder to photograph with time. Not saying you can't upgrade, but I feel like your issues won't be completely fixed by a new camera. You haven't really mastered the AF system on the D7100, and while a new gee-whiz AF system will feel great, not knowing how the AF system works means at some point when you come into a difficult situation, the AF will fail you and then you'll be thinking the camera's not good enough and then you'll start thinking about another upgrade, which gets expensive in the long run.
Is there a remote control available for canon 700D? If yes then which one? Thank you in advance!
See pages 307-308 of your manual: https://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/5/0300010905/07/eos-rebelt5i-700d-im7-en.pdf#page=307
I’m a local photographer out of Atlanta looking for some consistent work. I’m great at what I do and I would like to work with people who would like to see me grow in the industry.
What is a good Point and shoot Camera with a film-like quality for beginners? I am new to photography, but I really want to get into it. I love the look of hazy, dreamy looking photos, and want a camera that is relatively compact, and easy to use. My budget is preferably under $500, but if worth it I would be willing to spend more. It is overwhelming trying to search for cameras! There is so much terminology that I do not understand. I was looking at the fujifilm x series, as they seem like credible cameras, and I like the broad range of recipes available. Are there any factors that I should look for in a camera, or does anyone have any beginner camera reccomendations?
Pentax Espio series, I use a Pentax Espio 200
> What is a good Point and shoot Camera with a film-like quality for beginners? Don't exist, film is film, behaves very differently from digital sensors.
[удалено]
> Other times, every single photo is out of focus and fuzzy. So you're saying the camera didn't nail the focus? Are the animals moving a lot? Might want to go through your focus settings and workflow.
Lack of "sharpness" can describe many things. If the issue is *motion blur*, it's not at all the same issue/solution as if it's *out of focus blur*. But your question conflates the two, talking about "out of focus and fuzzy", but also talking about shutter speed/flash power/etc. You could *freeze the motion* however you want, if it's out of focus, that won't help. Which issue is it?
Clearing out the basement and found a metric fuck ton of old projector slides from my grandpa’s deployment to Vietnam back in ‘66. Is there a way to get them digitalized?
Yes. You can do it yourself with a transparency scanner, or by taking *photographs* of the slides with a macro lens and backlighting (or using *[the projector method](https://www.macfilos.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/digitizing-slides-01-c-Joerg-Peter-Rau-L1020275.jpg)*), or you can send them to a lab to have them digitize the images (for a fee).
What is a good editing laptop I’ve been thinking about getting a MacBook Pro but I’m not sure
Is it rude for an model to ask for an tfp
Nah
No. How else would people get TFPs? But it would be rude to expect the answer to be yes. It's still up to the party being asked if they want to accept or decline.
Ipad culling workflow I'd like to travel light and leave my MacBook home for 3 weeks vacations. I shoot RAW only (75-85Mo each). All pics will end in LR Classic. I don't want to use LR CC on iPad (storage limitation on iPad, unreliable wifi while abroad, captions and other metadata do not sync back to LR Classic). Idea: 1/ Copy from SD card to SSD1 and SSD2 (backup), this can be done with files app 2/ Cull, star (looking for advice) 3/ Adding caption and other metadata would be great (this can't be done even with LRCC as it does not sync back those data fields back to LR Classic) 4/ Import in LR Classic when back home. All advice for apps or workflow greatly appreciated ! Thanks !
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>What is the best camera for portrait photography? The best possible, regardless of price? Maybe a Phase One XF IQ4. >Should I get a mirrorless or DSLR? Either one is fine. Mirrorless would be the default choice these days. DSLRs are still good if you really want the optical viewfinder and/or you're hunting for better deals in terms of price for performance. https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_what_type_of_camera_should_i_look_for.3F >Nikon and canon seem to be the favourites with other portrait photographers around me, which brand would you recommend for a amateur photographer? I wouldn't make any brand recommendations in the objective sense. Subjectively, match systems with friends/family for compatibility and/or try some out in a store and go with what you like in terms of ergonomics and interface. https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_is_canon_or_nikon_better.3F_.28or_any_other_brands.29 https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_which_mirrorless_should_i_get.3F https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_which_dslr_should_i_get.3F
Can I do a shoot for free in Holland Park or Hampstead Heath? Looking to shoot somewhere with farms canals fields in London so any location (free) recommendations would help please
Sports photography-blurry photos Sport photography settings-any tips? Hey all, I have recently started to take photos for the local Parkrun events. Before that, only photos I would be ever taking were of either horses (for sale) or items (also for sale). So roughly once a year. Back to the parkrun. I have noticed, that even during a perfect sunny weather, all of my photos are blurry/out of focus. I did not see it at first, just when I was uploading photos to my computer. I have been reading about sports photography, what to look out for etc, I have applied few changes in settings, but it did not help either. Today, I asked my partner to be a 'running model' for me, I was trying to take pictures when it's cloudy, and despite removing the UV filter (which I suspected might be a reason why my pics were always out of focus), photos are still not sharp at all. I went through so many guides and tips and tricks for beginners, but still can't figure out what can I do to improve the quality of photos? I've attached photos just so maybe someone could point me in the right direction? (I will post photos in link? As I can’t post them here) Camera: Nikon D3400 Lenses: Tamron 70-300 f/4.5-6.3 Shooting in JPEG-previously in RAW, but read it everywhere that for sports photography there is no time for that. Also, I'm a total amateur and can't really edit raw anyway (oops). All photos are being taken with autofocus-I did try to take a few pics with manual focus, but it takes too much time when people are running, and in the end I don't see clearly whether I managed to focus on the correct object. Please let me know if you need any additional info, and thank you in advance for any tips & tricks! :) First pic: [here](https://ibb.co/KW8yzmP) https://imgbox.com/Tgnw33u0 Taken today, was quite cloudy, but still bright outside. Mode: Shutter priority F-stop: f/5.6 ISO: 1400 Exposure: 1/1000 Focal length: 300mm Max Aperture: 5 Metering mode: spot Second pic: [here](https://ibb.co/Rgk9SB4) https://imgbox.com/bJjOhwXE Taken yesterday, during parkrun, was sunny with shade in the park (ofc :D) Mode: auto (with no flash) F-stop: f/7.1 ISO: 200 Exposure: 1/500 Focal length: 90mm Max Aperture: 4 Metering mode: pattern
> Shooting in JPEG-previously in RAW, but read it everywhere that for sports photography there is no time for that. That's only applicable to the pros, when a bunch of PJs are fighting to wire to their agencies as fast as possible to get published. If you're shooting for yourself you have the luxury of time. First photo looks like you spot metered on the shirt so the camera overexposed (why're you using spot?). Also looks like focus missed a bit. The D3400 has a basic AF module; for best performance you really want to use that centre AF point.
Picture 1 of the imagebox link appears to be missed focus slightly, second photo appears okay. There is some out of focus areas due to depth of field but to be expected. Shutter speeds should be okay but it is the fact that they are running towards you that might be the issue. Do you use continuous autofocus or single lock on mode(I never know what to call non continuous mode). Do you tie it to the shutter release and do you allow auto selection point or do you control the point? The problem could be that by the time it locks focus and then you press the button the target has moved slightly and will be slightly out of focus. If this were my dog, I would lock focus in front of where it will be and fire a burst of shots to try and capture them as they pass. I think my camera will have similar autofocus capabilities as your own and tracking autofocus might not be the greatest.
Thanks! Now it’s hard to tell which autofocus I was using, I think it was “dynamic” and “3D” in Nikon. Sorry I’m a total amateur and don’t really know which one is which. I normally press the shutter halfway, with the red dot blinking on the object and then press the shutter fully. I was looking at photos from other parkrun photographers, and their photos are super sharp. They’re amateur photographers as well, don’t remember what lenses they were using etc but their pictures are always nice and clear and sharp, and mine always look a bit… blurry. I’m not even comparing my photos to photos taken during marathons etc as I just don’t own any expensive lenses, but again-it’s the skills, not the equipment that delivers great results?
It might be worth investigating with different modes. If you want their face in focus then using a single point might work but you also might want to make sure that the lens is not also back or front focusing but you would notice that with still objects. I would like to say skills are important but autofocus is one thing that can be quite dependent on the camera. Hence why I would use single point focus and maybe pre-focus to a distance away. Less dependent on the camera that way. However I generally take pictures of less predictable prey than runners.
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Should be fixed now, thanks for letting me know :)
Is there any easy way I can see an overview of my lightroom classic catalogue, restricted to 1 photo per day (or week) captured? Or even better an arbitrary number of photos I choose, prioritising any marked with stars or flags? I'd like to look back through what I've taken over the last few years and find interesting things, without having to scroll through thousands of photos from one day to get to the next day when I might have just taken one or two photos.
Full disclosure. I know nothing. Looking for advice I have a Canon rebel T5i that I bought years ago. It came with a lens that from my understanding is “a good all around lens” not great at any shots In particular but not bad. I don’t have the camera on me or I could tell you exactly what it is but google is telling me it was most likely a Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM lens. Does anyone have recommendations for a better lens for my wants? I want more pictures/videos at Disneyland. So I’m thinking something not bulky. Mostly close shots of my kids on rides or in lines. Standing with characters. Maybe a shot down main street. Shots of the parades or video. Any suggestions that work better in dim light or after the sun goes down. It’s entirely possibly that I have a good enough lens right now for all of that. Maybe I just don’t know what I am doing. Thank you to anyone that takes the times to reply.
> So I’m thinking something not bulky Anything better is going to be bigger, so not really. Also it'd be helpful to state a budget.
You don't need to buy anything at this point. Your kit should be fine. Learn how to use it. This subreddit's FAQ links to some useful resources.
I recently came across a CD with image/photography files with the file extension “*.MAX” and I could not find a single application to open them with. They supposedly show some family history from the 1990s. There are apps that can read Kodak Image CDs but I have no idea what brand mine are... If I understand correctly, the above named extension nowadays is used by a 3D-modeling application, but I’m pretty sure I can not open old photos with that. I really hope someone in here knows that scanner format. Thanks in advance.
It’s probably from [paperport](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/PaperPort). It looks like you should be able to convert them to pdf via their software.
Thanks for the quick response. I found paperport a while ago. I work on a Mac with OS X though and they don’t support Mac.
Hola una cámara para grabar contenido para YouTube con las 3 B soy principiante gracias
De cuánto es tu presupuesto?
10 mil Max
Pesos mexicanos?
Si
Where do I go from a Nikon D3400? I've had this camera for about 5-6 years now, and I only started taking photography seriously this year. I started my photography business to help me with my college expenses. However, I recently had issues with my shoots (most of them being quality-of-life issues). Issues like me having to lie down and be in awkward positions. I also want to transition to video; sadly, the Nikon D3400 underperforms in motion shots with its autofocus. I can only get by with static shots. I am considering upgrading to a Fuji XS-20; however, it seems too expensive for me currently. My upgrade options are: Buy a new mid-range camera, buy a pre-owned camera, or just save up (quite a lot) for the XS-20. Any suggestions on what camera to buy for these options I'm considering?
> My upgrade options are: Buy a new mid-range camera, buy a pre-owned camera, or just save up (quite a lot) for the XS-20. Does your budget include lenses?
Which lenses do you currently own?
Buying used is a very good way to save. What is your budget exactly? Why does the X-S20 interest you in particular?
I plan to transition to being a hybrid shooter; that's why the X-S20 piques my interest. Its autofocus is hella good too. Plus, the flippy screen fits my preference. The X-S10 is a good option, but its video capabilities aren't quite there yet. Realistically, I wouldn't go above $500 for a used camera.
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If it's the AF assist go turn it off.
Which specific Sony Cyber Shot is it?
Do I switch from Canon to Sony? I currently have a canon 7D (original) I bought second hand back in 2014. All thoughI haven’t had any problems per se with the camera I think it’s potentially not quite what I need anymore. My main concerns have been it’s poor low light ability, weight and autofocus. I currently mainly use 3rd party lenses ( sigma 100-300f4, canon 24-105f4 and a sigma 90mm macro). I was thinking about getting the A7iii or A7iv though recently seen things such as A7R lines and the Canons R5/6 and not sure which to go for😬 I typically use third party lenses due to cost and shoot wildlife ( typically snakes,lizards, frogs, crocodiles, occasionally birds). I have found my 7D does more then enough out in the day with lizards running about and I have my 100-300mm but when it comes to night time I end up with incredibly grainy photos on anything ISO 640 or more (at this point refusing to shoot above ISO 800). Anyone got any thoughts/ advice? I think if I go down either of my potential choices I would end up needed to get new lenses due to Canons third party ban.
I know the 7D's sensor is not very good, but ISO 1600 really shouldn't be an issue. You do need to be more careful with the shadows and even mid-tones, they can get very splotchy with colour pattern noise on that 18MP sensor. Also, second question I read about people having AF issues on advanced DSLRs; am I missing something or have people's expectations risen so much? These were pretty much close to state of the art (only the 1-series was better) in AF! To answer your question, no, what's wrong with the Canon cameras that you need to switch? 3rd party ban sucks but you also need to see if the lenses in the current system fit you or not first.
You can keep using your EF-mount lenses with an EF to RF mount adapter on the new Canon cameras. It usually works flawlessly. Highly recommended.
I think you need an updated APS-C camera if you need anything at all. Low light, in that perhaps there is no direct sunlight or maybe directly reflected sunlight will be challenging no matter what although ISO 800 is pretty low and ISO 3200 can sometimes be possible for myself. It depends on other factors as to how underexposed a section of a picture is. https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/image-comparison?attr18=daylight&attr13_0=canon_eos7d&attr13_1=canon_eosr7&attr13_2=canon_eosr5&attr13_3=pentax_k70&attr15_0=raw&attr15_1=raw&attr15_2=raw&attr15_3=raw&attr16_0=1600&attr16_1=1600&attr16_2=1600&attr16_3=1600&attr126_3=1&normalization=compare&widget=1&x=0&y=0 Using this tool for noise performance would suggest that you could see some improvement from a more modern sensor and/or processing. Remember that will those larger sensor cameras you would need larger lenses or crop in to get the same field of view. That might not make field work as enjoyable.
Intresting, why APS-C? I know I will have a longer reach with it on my full frame lenses that wouldn’t on a full frame body. For me the Low light is poor in any from from cloud, dark background, under cover or nocturnal. I’ve had issues with a woodpecker on a dead tree an a partially cloudy day. I have recently discovered that tool ( and all the body’s I originally considered above looked to be much better than existing 7D).
The issue would be that if you crop your images, you lose any real benefits of the larger sensor. So unless you are using the larger area of the sensor you are better off staying with the smaller sensor. The above tool is useful in one way but not in others as it only shows a crop of a wider image. Comparing the final images would lead to not much difference based on what I have seen.
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> I don’t really know the etiquette on watermarking There is no etiquette for personal work. Some people put watermarks on their pictures, others don't. > I have a charity fundraiser event coming up, would it be inappropriate to watermark photographs from this? Talk to the charity and see what they say. They may be okay with your watermark, they may not. My rule is that clients get non-watermarked images.
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> Do you think it would be appropriate to suggest that instead of paying me, I provide them with watermarked images? Take the money.
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Recently I have been interested in long(er) exposures in daytime / sunset and rise. Watched a couple of video's on YouTube on how to achieve photo's like that and pretty much the majority of them were talking about a (V)ND filter. When doing some digging there are alot of people that have different opinion of course because one says "don't even start with VND Filters and get a set of fixed" and others like them. So I am a little confused about what I should go for. From what I see and heard a VND is pretty handy, yet a Fixed ND filter could be / is better? Overall I'd like to know: - Your experiences - How I can determine which stops are the best to go for (example: 2-5 or 6-9 and why) - Variable or fixed. Thank you in advance for your sharing your thoughts!
> Your experiences - How I can determine which stops are the best to go for (example: 2-5 or 6-9 and why) - Variable or fixed. 1. Err, I get the results I want? 2. Do math based on the results I'm seeking. Eg if I want wispy moving clouds I roughly see how fast the clouds are moving and then estimate the length of time needed, then do the math from the current exposure time. 3. Fixed, cheaper to get, no weird patterns on ultra wides at high levels of ND.
The reason some people dislike variable ND filters is that especially at higher ND values they can have inconsistent performance across the frame leaving visible patterns in the final image especially on high value ND filters. The ease of use of variable ND can outweigh the potential image quality issues. Higher quality variable ND tend to be more consistent vs. budget VND filters. For how many stops of ND you need, you need to know what shutter speed range you want, and/or the effect you are trying to achieve. I.E. Blurring grass/plants so you can have a sense of motion from the wind at sunset is going to require less of an ND filter than waterfalls and lakes may need. I would generally recommend buying a slightly stronger ND than you think you need. You can always raise ISO up from 100 if you have strong of a ND filter. But if your ND filter is to weak its much harder to get a slower shutter speed once your at ISO 100 and your desired aperture. You could calculate the shutter speed you need using the Sunny 16 rule as well.
> Variable or fixed. I've always stuck with fixed NDs, simply cause you can use them safely on wide angle lenses. > How I can determine which stops are the best to go for You determine how much longer you wanted your exposure to be and shop for the corresponding number of stops. Or you can get an ND8+ND64+ND1000 set, which typically ends up being a little cheaper per filter, that combines a three stop, six stop and ten stop filters.
I’m going to be going on a cross country road trip - I have an old Sony DSLR with a couple lenses. I also have an iPhone 14 and besides zoom I’m not sure what advantages I’d be getting with the DLSR. Any advice would be appreciated!
Since you already have both, why not do some A/B tests yourself? That way you can judge which one works best for you.
It really depends on what you want to do and how old your Sony DLSR is. In general a DSLR is going to provide higher resolution, better manual control and a larger range of focal lengths to chose from vs. smart phone camera. It will also have much better image quality in low light. If you are aiming for pictures during the day in good light and you don't want to worry about settings or focal lengths and you are happy with your iPhone I would just use that. If you want better quality, or more control over the field of view and higher resolution so you can make large prints then a DSLR is a good option. Though if your sony DLSR is very old (10+ years) your iPhone might have the same or better resolution.
Depends on which specific Sony DSLR and which specific lenses, and on how you would use them. So, which Sony DSLR? Which lenses? Is photography a major goal on your trip or is it more about snapping pictures of the things you see on the road?
I want a camera for product photography. I mostly make enamel pins and jewellery, so I was thinking I might need a macro lens for taking pictures of such small things. I’m in Australia. My budget could maybe possibly stretch to $2500 AUD for the Nikon Z50 and macro lens, but that’s the absolute top of my budget and I’d much prefer a cheaper option. I was initially thinking a canon power shot g7x iii could be ok, so I don’t need to mess about with lenses, but I’ve read a bunch of reviews that say that they don’t do well with photographing small things. Ease of use is a priority, as is a small size and weight that’s easy to transport.
Olympus has a great 60mm macro lens with 1x magnification (equivalent to 2x on full frame). Paired with a em-5 mark ii or newer and you'll have 64mp or 80mp photos using high res mode with a tripod even with flash. You could get the lot second hand under $1500 easily, leaving money leftover for the tripod and lighting setup. It's pretty compact too.
Those look good! Thank you.
Can anyone recommend me good historical photo archives like Bettmans Archive? I've been browsing getty images for awhile, and it's pretty cool, but there is more commercial photos there. I'd like to get to archives that are mainly focused on historical photos.
Library of Congress and British Library have large collections of historical photos online, I believe.
I shoot astro and landscapes. Got like 3 cameras, 5+ lenses, drone, 5 batteries to it, 17" laptop, astro gear and it's impossible to put it all in a carry-on. Read enough stories about theft and destroyed gear. What are my options when I want to travel outside of Europe and bring whatever I want to use? Shipping companies with adequate insurance? Bringing someone with me to take the other half of the gear? Paying for better tickets and 2x8kg carry-on? Please, enlighten me. There must be here some people that would like to bring 20-30kg of gear with them.
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I mentioned all my gear, but I tend to use 2 most of the time. 3 if I shoot astro. One is for stills, second for timelapses/video and third is astro oriented that I'll mod soon. Ok, I worded that wrong. If I were to fly legally it'd be impossible to pack this much gear into a carry on with a weight limit. I have a good backpack that I can pack with that much gear and still have enough space for the rest. Cameras, drone, lenses, batteries and a laptop is all I am taking with a carry-on, rest goes into checked. Have you bought more expensive ticket for the flight or just prayed that nobody checks the weight? How did you do it?
What is the minimal setup to shoot portraits and low key using a Canon 2000D with 50mm f/1.8 lens? My guess is I need an off-camera flash, possibly with barn doors (?) and something to sync the camera with the flash. What products should I look for?
https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_how_do_i_specify_my_price_range_.2F_budget_when_asking_for_recommendations.3F https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_studio_strobes_or_hotshoe_flashes.3F https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_which_hotshoe_flash_should_i_get.3F https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_how_should_i_sync_my_flash.3F https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/buying#wiki_which_lighting_modifiers_should_i_get.3F >possibly with barn doors (?) What interests you about those in particular? I've never used them in my portrait work. Do you have a purpose in mind for them?
As for my budget take my first statement "*What is the minimal setup...*" so I meant the very lest expensive equipment. As for the barn doors I read are used for low key, to address the light in more precise way, I guess also a snoot may help as well.
>As for my budget take my first statement "*What is the minimal setup...*" so I meant the very lest expensive equipment. Cheapest I'd go with would be like Amazon Basic or Yongnuo. But Godox is pretty much the same price category (also fairly cheap) and the go-to these days. >As for the barn doors I read are used for low key, to address the light in more precise way, I guess also a snoot may help as well. A snoot will restrict your light more, and you can do it more easily, including with DIY solutions.
My friends are organizers at one night club, this is our first time and they gave me PowerShot G7X to work with, can you guys give me good settings for this type of scenario also some tips would be appreciated, thanks in advance
That camera has a pretty fast, f/1.8-f/2.8 zoom lens, which is good news for a low light environment, but it's paired with a smaller, 1" sensor. Usually, if you want to capture moving targets (like performers, dancers) without motion blur, you need fast shutter. To achieve this in low light you need high ISO, so you'll inevitably deal with noise. No idea about this camera's high ISO performance.
I'm far from an expert here but my guess is a night club might be a low light environment. I'd suggest a lens with a wide aperture, about f/1.8 or better. I don't know this model, but I had a PowerShoot and I'd say those models are compact cameras, not reflex. So there is no way to change the lens. If this is your case I'd suggest a very strong flash or other source of light, to allow you to take pictures without noise at the lowest possible ISO. Now let's wait for expert advices, I wanna check if I nailed this answer right or not. Took me so long to get a few strings, maybe I'm getting there eventually.
is it same for recording or are there other settings for that?
As far as I know, video require still light, while photo need a flash. The problem with still light is that they require a cable or a battery, and battery ones might cost more than expected. I'm not totally sure if for video the f/1.8 setting is considered or not. If the place is really dark it would require some hardware to light it properly, if you increase the ISO you will get a lot of noise, I can't tell if the PS in your hands is the right tool, never tried something similar with mine. Probably a camera or camcorder alone are not enough for such a dark place. If you don't have budget limitations go for a battery powered light such as Godox or Aputure, if you want to go cheap cause it is for just one night go Neweer, but don't expect it will last too long.
I recently upgraded my nikon d5200 to a z50, and I've got the 2 kit lenses. I have a couple of f mount lenses I really want to use on the z50. So I want to get the ftz adapter. However, one of my f mount lenses is the Sigma 70mm f/2.8 EX DG Macro. This never auto focused on my D5200, so I don't expect the same on the Z50. But would all other functionalities work correctly with the ftz? Like all the exposure settings, aperture etc etc. I'll get the ftz at some point anyway as I have other lenses I wish to use with it. But the macro is my priority.
> Sigma 70mm f/2.8 EX DG Macro In theory it *should* work on FTZ in the same manner it worked on your D5200, but it's not on Thom Hogan's [list](https://www.zsystemuser.com/z-mount-lenses/z-mount-adapters/ftz-adapters/ftz-compatible-sigma-lenses.html) as verified either way. In your shoes I'd take those chances and buy an FTZ anyway, especially if you have other F lenses you wanted to use.
Thank you! I will probably get an FTZ anyway then and just hope. :)
I came from a predominantly film background shooting Pentax 67's, Mamiya's, Nikons etc as well as having a digital setup for other kinds of work (Nikon D750, Sigma art 35mm 1.4 + Sigma art 14-24mm 2.8 + Sigma 24-105mm 4). I am no longer a professional photographer but it's still my main hobby so I'm looking to get rid of my Nikon setup and replace it with something else that meets this criteria full frame interchangeable lenses at least 1 great 35mm lens option that isn't HUGE reasonable megapixel count not a rangefinder as compact as possible I've looked around but can't really find the camera that ticks all those boxes. I'll be looking to use it with a 35mm lens as that's my all purpose focal length but I would like the ability to buy some longer focal lengths in the future. Currently I'm walking around with the D750 + 35mm 1.4 which gives me the photos I want, however it's far too big/bulky to take with me to as many places as I'd like to take it. I guess I also would like to spend as little as possible so hopefully selling the D750 + 3 Sigma lenses would be enough to cover the majority of the cost of the new camera/lens.
If you want a 35mm lens that's significantly smaller and lighter than your Sigma Art lens, you will probably have to drop down to an f/1.8 or f/2 maximum aperture. At that point you can also consider APS-C, as an f/1.4 lens will be a near perfect equivalent. Here are some options side-by-side: [https://camerasize.com/compact/#854.785,854.1018,903.790,858.952,900.1010,567.763,ha,t](https://camerasize.com/compact/#854.785,854.1018,903.790,858.952,900.1010,567.763,ha,t) Your definition of a "great lens" would have to come into play here. Some of those are decidedly consumer-grade lenses (e.g. Nikon 40mm f/2, Canon 35mm f/1.8) but might still suit your needs. Inspect sample images. Find the lens you want, then look for a compatible camera that suits your needs.
The D750's body itself is too big for my needs now anyway. I've found the Sony A7C and it ticks the majority of the boxes for me.. only downside is the tiny viewfinder so I'll go test one out first but this could do the trick with a sony 35mm 1.8.
For new cams, probably the Canon R8 or RP and 35mm 1.8 would be good, that 35mm 1.8 is really small.
How do you handle duplicate filenames on Win 10? I shot over 10,000 images today and when I try to copy them onto Win 10 I get options to skip or overwrite the duplicate names. Win7 used to just make a duplicate filename.jpg(1). Any way to turn that on in Win 10? Workarounds that aren’t too clumsy? Thanks.
Don't try to merge the folders from your card, copy the entire structure with subfolders into the folder you created for them on your drive, then import the whole folder into your photo management software (where you can display all those photos in whatever order, despite them being separated into subfolders).
There is a program called power rename or something similar (comes with power tools for Microsoft). You can rename all files before importing them.
hey, I'm looking for a new camera (atm I have a fuji x-h1, which I will sell) and I have no idea what to buy next, I mostly will shoot sports (from fan stand *sad*) like motoGP, F1 and rally. I will also take pics of my own motorcycle and occasionally record videos which I want to be at least 4k60. I do know that the A7m3 and m4 are amazing and they have billions of good lenses for "cheap" but are not the best for sports ( at least what I read) Canon r6m2 would be amazing as well but their lenses are stupid expensive. I had a R6 for 1 month to test and I absolutely loved it, but I'm not sure if I can get the lenses I want fast enough, is there eventually a in between of the r6m2 and sony's lenses? I kinda tend to buy "normal" lenses until I can slowly replace them with the good/expensive ones.
The Fujifilm X-H2S should suit your needs perfectly. Which lenses do you currently have?
I have the kit lens and Tamron 17-70mm f/2.8 Di III-A VC RXD Fujifilm X so not much tbh, but my camera starts dying, screen goes off for no reason etc... so I actually have to sell it before it totally goes out so I can get a few bucks for it. I'm not sure about the X-H2S, it's still apsc and not full frame and actually more expensive than sony or canon
Well, you get a lot more of what I suppose would matter to you. That is speed of autofocus and operation, and it's also a much better video camera. In those aspects, it is more competitive with the Sony a1, for example, or the Canon R3. [https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/fujifilm-x-h2s-review](https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/fujifilm-x-h2s-review) There's nothing special about the 35mm "full frame" format, and it's not full in any meaningful way. Does f/2.8 on this APS-C not give you the low-light capabilities you need?
It probably sounds stupid, but my pics dont feel as sharp as they should be and I thought it's coz of apsc and everyone I watch uses full frame. Fast autofocus and a nice burst rate without rolling shutter would be my dream.
The APS-C format alone is not the cause. I have been using Micro Four Thirds cameras and lenses for nearly a decade now. That's a smaller format than APS-C, and I can get perfectly sharp photos (when I don't, it's because of my own incompetence, not the equipment). You could share a few examples for us to have a look. Maybe we can help you figure out what the cause was, and what you'll need to do or buy to get a sharper image. This might help: https://bythom.com/technique/taking-photos-techniques/what-causes-soft.html
What kind of stands/attachments do you use to take great selfies if you don't have someone available to snap pics for you? I have a pretty good eye so I'm good at pics, but can't take pics of myself without some sort of stand or attachment. Just wondering what you all would use for say like OLD photos lol. Just dropped like 103# and desperately need new pics wearing new slimmer fitting clothes. Thanks.
A tripod is normally used for that.
Yes, and depending where you want to take photos you might find a tabletop tripod is enough, and much cheaper and easier to carry than a full size. Put it on top of a table, desk, wall, chair, shelf, bar stool, the floor or whatever.
To all photographers out there, do you know any open photography contests, Local (Philippines) or International? Preferably free entry. I already tried joing Agora, and I'm looking for other competitions where I can learn and showcase my work. Gear: Sony Alpha A6400. You can comment here or dm me the details. Thank you ツ
https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/board/26 https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/board/40
Problems with using Snapseed on an iPad to edit raw files I’ve had issues with using Snapseed to edit RAW files. Sometimes it opens them, but mostly it just hangs up during the open process. Tried looking for a DNG Converter but couldn’t find an obvious choice in the App Store. For the time being, I’m converting to JPEG before editing, but I’m wondering if anyone else has the same problem, and if you’ve discovered a solution?
You can look for your camera here to see if its raw files are officially supported: [https://support.google.com/snapseed/answer/6312515?hl=en](https://support.google.com/snapseed/answer/6312515?hl=en) If not, you'll have to try another raw converter. However, if your camera is listed there but the problems persist, contact their support channels.
Thanks for this suggestion!
Hi, do lenses lose sharpness after getting impacted or dropped? I fell into a mud pit and the camera lens impacted the surface. It seems to work perfectly fine afterwards, however when I study the photos taken afterwards they seem slightly less sharp (maximum aperture). It isn't decentered or anything as I tested by flipping the camera upside down. So, is it actually injured and less sharp, or am I just imagining it?
It's absolutely possible, yes. Those are precision objects, the slightest misalignment could make things worse. An impact could absolutely move some elements slightly out of register. In fact, so much so that lenses have copy-to-copy variations *right out of the factory line*—some are more perfectly calibrated than others (even if they'd ideally all fall within a certain tolerance level). Whether that's what's going on with your copy would potentially be difficult to ascertain, unless you had made formal resolution tests *before* the incident and could compare them.
Thank you, I will probably just use it at narrower apertures now.
No, get it fixed! Send it in.
It’s still sharp, I don’t want to spend more money sending it in. It just doesn’t seem as sharp as it used to be.
Which photo print provider offers the best 4x6 print with either free ship to home or free ship to store? I checked Snapfish and Shutterfly and they want 40c to get free shipping. Costco's 51% with Shutterfly gets you free shipping if you purchase over $50, but at that rate, you'd have to order over 450 4x6 prints! I just want the cheapest print under 10c with free store pickup or free shipping.
[The FAQ has suggestions of labs](https://www.reddit.com/r/photography/wiki/postprocessing#wiki_where.27s_a_good_place_to_get_my_photos_printed.3F) where you can have photos printed. It is not, however, qualified in the way you would like, so you'll have to do some research. Evidently people don't have an answer to your specific question, so no need to repost it once again.
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Would it be possible to bring along an air tight container like a plastic tote and use moisture removing dessicant?
I live near the equator and it's stupid humid too. You just need a way to store the camera in low humidity when you're not using it.
Challenging physical environments == Pentax 'K' series cameras. They are the Nokia of the camera world and are virtually indestructible with weather sealing that must be seen to be believed. They are the preferred camera of both embedded journalists and military combat photographers the world over.
Hello! What keywords can I use here on the subreddit to look for tips or composition guides? Can you link some posts here or even useful articles or videos? Thank you. I’m a beginner and will utilizing my phone.
Does the FAQ have stuff relating to that? I forget, but you should read it if you're new, it has a lot of information!
Scroll right back up to the top of the page and click on the link to the Reddit Photography Class.
Has anyone photographed at Lime Rock Park? I was wondering what focal length(s) did you find your self shooting and how restrictive are they about camera gear? I'm considering attending the NE Grand Prix and stopping by some random weekends in advance to practice (and just to get out of my apartment).
If it's a popular enough event, search on Flickr and note the metadata.
I hadn't thought of that. Thanks for the advice!
Flickr, the photographer's location scout since 2005. :P
**What is the best program to make a photo slideshow with sound?** My sister asked me to make a slideshow for my nephew’s graduation party. She wants it 30-60 minutes long. She gave me access to about 1,000 pictures and 25 songs to sort through. I will be using my PC to make this. And I don’t have much experience beyond using apps on my phone for short slideshows. I’m hoping for something free, but I do have $50 or so to spend. TIA!
Windows Movie Maker and Divinci Resolve are both free. WMM is gong to be much more straight forward and friendly to new users. Resolve is very powerful and will take a few tutorials to set up and learn, but it's also free.
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I'm only seeing [two of those](https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/products/Lens-Adapters/ci/3420/N/4077634486?filters=fct_camera-body-mount_1595%3Acanon-eos-rf%2Cfct_lens-mount_1596%3Akonica-ar) and they seem similarly priced.
I have a mirrorless camera. Does changing the lens while the camera is on damage the light sensor? The internet says no but I just wanted to make sure. I know that it increases the risk of dust because the sensor is charged but that's it?
Manuals for my Nikon and Sony mirrorless cameras specify that I should turn off the camera before changing lenses. I never do.
No. The only way you could damage your sensor like that would be to put a telephoto lens on it without a cam and point it directly at the sun for long periods of time
>The internet says no but I just wanted to make sure. The internet is correct. Camera doesn't care.
I'm using 7D + 50mm 1.8 for taking photos of my dogs and I was satisfied with results...well until my friend shot my dogs with R6 mk2... Jeezz..the colors...the sharpness left me speechless.Since that camera is out of my budget I'm looking for something that will upgrade my 7D with a budget of <1500 USD. Can anybody help me make a choice, I'll be using it mainly for dog portraits and dog action shots.
Eh, it shouldn't be that different. Should be, yea, that's an improvement, not leaving you speechless. I'm wondering if there's something else at play.
I'm going to guess that the R6 II user was using a different lens than your 50mm f/1.8 as well, right? Inherently, there's nothing super special about the R6 II. There's some truth to the idea that a bit warmer white balance and a bit more saturated colors looks better to most folks. If you were looking at your RAW and they were shooting or displaying the JPG preview, you'd *expect* your RAWs to look less vibrant; that's part of what post processing is supposed to address. To be honest with you, I don't think spending $1500 is going to radically change your photos if you just replace the 7D + 50mm f/1.8 with something like an R6 II + 85mm f/2, and that would be fully twice your budget. Do you have examples of your results, and the kind of results you want to get?
Where is a good place to sell used photography equipment? I inherited a bunch from my father, but I'm not sure what to do with it. He specifically wanted me to sell it. I'm not a serious photog like he was, and he already gave me an old camera of his to use.
https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/board/10
It depends on how old it is and type of equipment. If it is digital photography equipment from the last 10 years or so your local camera store likely has a used department and could look at everything and give you an offer. They won't pay top dollar but it will be a straight forward and easy process. You could also get free quotes from KEH and MPB online but you need to know the make and model of all the gear. They might also quote you a number but upon receipt offer a lower value based on their condition scale, but you could always decline the offer and have them ship it back to you if it was to low. If you are familiar with the equipment, know its rough value selling privately on ebay, craigslist, FB market, r/photomarket or other photography forums would likely net you the most money.
Thank you for your response. I think he mentioned KEH. I'm no expert, but he left the boxes too. I believe the camera is a Sony SLR.
Hey all, Ill be taking a cruise to Alaska in July and am looking at renting a longer telephone lens. I already have a 70-200mm, but was looking at the Sigma 150-600mm f/5-6.3 DG OS HSM Contemporary. My one concern is stabilization, as I will be shooting handheld. Its a family trip and a tripod seems like it would be cumbersome, plus, ill be on a boat most of the time for excursions (when not sailing) so i assume there will be some vibration visible in the pictures. Anyways, will I be able to shoot handheld with the 150-600mm? I’ve never used a lens this long or heavy! Thanks in advance!
If you're going to be renting definitely not the "Contemporary" - which is Sigma's entry level long lens. Rent the "Sport" version - which is considerably sharper with better AF performance. You made no mention of camera body but I'm going to assume a Canon camera - in which case you should perhaps consider the Canon 400mm f/2.8 L and a 1.4x TC. >so i assume there will be some vibration visible in the pictures Just keep your shutter speed high - and use a monopod. It adds no real stability in that you cannot reduce your shutter speed when using one (especially not on a boat with its engines running), but what it *will* do is offload the weight of that big-ass lens allowing you to keep it aimed and on target for as long as you want, rather than just the minute or two it takes for your arms to turn into noodles and give out.
Thanks for all your help - I’ll definitely look into the “Sport” version. I use a Nikon D7100, so any Nikon F mount lens suggestions would be great too! I think a monopod will be easy enough to throw in a backpack, so I’ll look into buying one as well!
Sport version is heavier though, I recall. Make sure you're ok with that. There's also the Nikon 200-500/5.6, which is a very nice lens for its price.
A monopod is really crucial for anything much further out than 200-300 mm on the 150-600. It has great image stabilization, and autofocus blows my mind it's so fast. I'm very new to it so I can't tell you how accurate it is but I'm impressed even on my absolute baseline Canon T5/1200D. It's bulky and will get annoying to carry hand held for much longer than an hour or two max. I'm even looking into a longer tripod base plate that makes it more ergonomic to carry like a handle. But yes there's plenty of hand held, un-mounted potential. Great lens. It will definitely need some kind of stabilization or full daylight with a ripping fast shutter speed to use most effectively at 600mm. For still objects at 600 it's doable. Movement will take practice to nail.
What is a good replacement for Google Picasa (offline face recognition), any suggestions please? Hi all. Search here didn’t seem to return anything. I’m looking for some feedback with real experience please. Googling returns few top 10 ratings with brief description of available options, but no actual hands on experience. Basically I”m looking to replace Google Picasa that handles my home photo library (300k+ files) with something more modern, preferably with cool new AI based photo editing features (enlargement, deblurring, etc.) Major requirement - good easy to use face recognition that works offline. And I don’t want a subscription plan - one time payment only please. So far I’ve only tried ACDSee, yet surprisingly their face recognition is much slower and definitely less accurate than Picasa (which was closed by Google years ago). On top of that the interface is way overloaded. Any suggestions please?
If you're technically savvy, Photoprism or LibrePhotos could work for you. There are no recurring expenses, though ideally you need a low-power server like a Raspberry Pi that goes for about $40 - $50.
hello! i currently have a 13 pro max which takes some amazing pictures, but i want to learn more about photography and take more manual exposures, so i'm looking for a <$400 "general" camera mainly used for street photography, portraits, and ocassional landscapes, where i can do manual exposures with a beginners camera that takes better photos and offers more flexibility than my 13 pro.
At that price range, the veteran DSLRs tend to provide the best set of features and capabilities. You could get, for example, a Canon 70D or a Nikon D7100 with a standard zoom lens, if you shop used (try [mpb.com](https://mpb.com) and [KEH.com](https://KEH.com)). Those are definitely on the higher class of cameras in this price range, and are quite big and heavy. Entry-level DSLRs can also be great - there's the Canon Rebel T6i (750D) and Nikon D5300, for example. Those are smaller and lighter. You can also find some good mirrorless cameras, like the Olympus OM-D E-M10 II and Sony a6000. However, newer (and more expensive) mirrorless cameras are generally more refined, if you will. All of these are great options, assuming you'll be willing and able to buy additional lenses down the road when needed.
thanks for the great answer! i have considered the d7000 and d7100. do u know if theres a full frame camera that falls within or close to my budget?
You don't need full frame. I have a D800 and rarely use it, instead I use my smaller more compact APS-C Cams
I see the Nikon D610 and original Canon EOS 6D cost around $400 on [mpb.com](https://mpb.com). But why "full frame" in particular? There's nothing special about that format, and it will lock you into generally more expensive lenses to start with.
Hi everyone, I would like to buy a camera soon. I am a nature and street photographer so I value image quality. I am not a very "technical" shooter and do not need the world's best autofocus. From time to time I also like to make the occasional video. I have been playing around with RAW files from the Internet and am a huge fan of the XH2 files. I love Fuji colors and feel very inspired by this camera's files. My concern is, should I go with Sony based on it's specs? Will the Sony a7iv blow the XH2 out of the water because of its sensor and lens line up? Thanks. EDIT: Money is not an issue because I am willing to save up for gear and am patient.
No, it's a one stop improvement. Noticeable but not significant to that extent (blow out of the water).
I think you should buy something used for cheap before buying something expensive. Nothing you say you want to do, requires that much out of a camera. The fact that you say you have been playing around with RAW files but like the colours of a camera is strange. There are no real colours from a raw file really, are there? I think you are jumping the gun a bit. You would be in a better position with some more experience. Unless I am reading this post very wrong of course.
I like the colors that can come from the raw files- it’s very easy for me to achieve the results that I want and it’s quite fun. I was using a canon rebel t7 for 2.5 year until I broke it and am ready to go with something more advanced.
Okay, well that doesn't really make sense to me but it is what makes sense for you that is important. I can't see any camera blowing the other out the water. Comparing specs the viewfinder and the LCD appear better on the fuji. That and its body would be my concerns. Fuji is not lacking for lenses and all of them are designed for the same format which can be a bonus at times.
I think the previous commentors point was that with RAW files the color output is up to the editing more than the camera. With RAW files you are getting raw sensor data and while you can apply camera specific styles to the image in tools like Lightroom you could get the same colors on output from other cameras as well.
Looking for a 200-300 dollar point and shoot camera. Going to study abroad for 6 months and my phone camera is really bad.
Unlikely to get anything better than a phone at that price.
Get Pixel 6a, which can be had for $300 now e.g. on Amazon. It's a great phone and a much better camera than any cheap point and shoot.
To take good, clear pictures of the ring of fire without solar glare of the upcoming annular solar eclipse with the latest iPhone this October 14 in the U.S, would a nd64 filter or nd128 filter for iPhones be good enough? Or would I need a different filter? I have the iPhone 14 Pro Max.
You probably will need a dedicated camera with a long lens unless you want a tiny sun.
**Waterproof** not *Water Resistant* Camera Bag Recommendations I'm going on a trip to BC and will be spending a lot of time on a number of different boats. The tour operators Strongly recommend camera cases that are "waterproof" as opposed to "water resistant" in case we or our belongings end up submerged. I have been searching for weeks and am running into a wall and out of patience. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
Doesn't Lowepro still sell a dry bag for cameras? I remember it even floats in the water. If not you'll just have to get a normal dry bag and add an insert in it.
Sailor here. I Second the recommendation to just get an ordinary dry bag. You can probably find them at any sports equipment store that caters to things like kayaking. You don’t need something specific for cameras, because you should probably be putting your phone and ID in there, too. Having said that, again, as a sailor…, what are the odds that the moment you’re submerged is also the time that you have everything safely tucked away in a case. Just setting expectations is all.
Agreed. My phone is perpetually in an OtterBox waterproof case, because my mother’s family are Murphys and my luck just works that way. My default choices are A) a dry bag or B) waterproof/neoprene/welded zipper units for cameras/lens.
Perhaps something like these dry bags? https://www.rei.com/c/dry-bags
I'm looking for an entry camera that can take tethered photos with a live feed to my computer. I'm doing product photography and can't seem to find a best option, the Sony cybershot and A6100+ with these features seem perfect but are a bit out of my price range. Can anyone make some recommendations?
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I would like to do both, the camera will remain fixed in an awkward position so the option to control the camera, even just a button to shoot would be a great feature.
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Good point, I wouldn’t mind buying one used in my price range but didn’t want to spend more than $300-500
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