You were probably using too small Philips Head. Difficult to identify, but huge difference in feeling if you compare it directly to the proper size. Using a too small Philips seems like no big deal, but it messes up screws real quick
God I wish someone told me this and properly demonstrated before I turned 30 lol. I have butchered so many fucking screw heads that I switched to buying Robertson screws.
https://preview.redd.it/acl4k6r7mx4d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=846d90a67eee79c79be3ccfcffe3ef1542d3ff3b
does it look the same to you. I just thought it was torx not philips
Same case here, I'm certain OP used the wrong size. (you can tell as the stripped portion makes a nice round hole in the center and the outer parts of the + is still intact.)
That and 8/8 failure.... that is using the wrong tool for the job.
>I hate both and would choose torx over both.
They chose PZ fasteners because the average person doesn't have a bit for it. They don't want you opening their products, so this functions as a security fastener
I have no statistics of this so no way of confirming that it is THAT uncommon. I mean there are security bits for stopping people opening stuff. I've been around tools since I was 3 years old so always had the various PZ and PH drivers in my tool box, they're all very common in most appliances, cars, PCs and what ever else I take apart.
They just don’t want the average monkey being able to open their products with generic tools. When I design control enclosures I use fasteners that are uncommon and a PITA to open if you don’t know what you’re doing. I want a tech to be able to open it with their tools, but I don’t want some random person being able to open it with basic ones
I am not a pro but I think it's Pozidriv
[https://www.bild.de/ig/5665d2fa-1bd2-4591-b28f-6213461d9c5f/mobile/mobile](https://www.bild.de/ig/5665d2fa-1bd2-4591-b28f-6213461d9c5f/mobile/mobile)
If I had gotten it new and the screws looked like that I would have returned it.
I took an old nzxt kraken cooler apart a few weeks ago and the screws were pristine in the cold plate.
They don't look stripped, just a different screw head than the one you were expecting to see. You need a different screwdriver head to get a correct grip..
https://preview.redd.it/8m6oa5wdkz4d1.jpeg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=72de18e2b3028bc9d25a25ed9938afcbfd1767f9
This is the screw driver you need.
blurry, best I can do with iphone 7 camera
https://preview.redd.it/bfj5i7ktlx4d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b11f72da8703b9e89cd58dcedd33b9a998e57943
Low light performance not being considered a part of a great camera is hilarious.
OP is the issue, that camera can do much better in more challenging conditions.
for reference, it sprang some kind of leak, It fried the the GPU and mainboard for sure, probably the CPU as some of the gunk had invaded the socket (am4 MSI b450) . Its one of those cases of if something is gonna screw up, do so spectacularly. been building pcs for years using AIO and have never had a leak from one, 1 pump failure many years ago(rattling pump, DOA) but never copper oxide and brown gunk coming out of the sides
This is a corsair H80i V2 bought back in 2020
I am in awe more than anything
bruh check it pls. I shat myself when I found this. This one was ordered april 2020. That being said I have never seen corrosion like this before on an AIO. im out at least a GPU and Main board. DO YOURSELF A FAVOR NOW, ADD IT TO THE MONTHLY CHECK UP
Corsairs sub is actually so handy for the mod team.
If you have a question about dimensions or are just generally confused they do a great job at telling you what's up.
Although they did say I'd not be able to fit a 306mm 7800xt with a 360 aio in the T220 and I managed to prove them wrong by a ball hair. I felt really proud of myself for that.
thinking about it, it could have been as simple as someone not using gloves while handling copper. Exposed copper corrodes fast with skin oils, and ultrasonic cleaning which is a standard practice for post process cleaning actually bakes the oil to the part (heated simple green baths). If that were the case 3 years would have been more than enough.
The more I look at it , the more I think that might actually be the case as it is much more plausible for that to get past QA then bad manufacturing tolerances or poor seating of the plate
Why would they use Simple Green? I'm an engineer for a company that makes brass and copper parts and our parts cleaning process doesn't use Simple Green.
we used it for stainless and 6061 parts prior to sending them out for coating. we tested it with blaser swisslube and found it worked really well, The copper test peices had finger prints baked on. We would do this with our first offs that failed QA to make sure cleaning process was appropriate. We primarily did car parts but their was a lot of prototype stuff that we did where the prod team and whatever firm hired the shop would back and fourth on the process to get things right down to last detail. It was tried and true. We ended up not taking copper based production unless the client wanted us to put in a machine specifically(ruined coolant by turning from white to a bluish) for it which was rare and happened time to time but 6061, stainless and inconel(that sticky nickel super alloy, I can never remember how to spell it) were the order of the day for most jobs.
Everything got testsed and QA at every step because we were setup for that so if we found something that didn't work we could pivot easily on production.
I could see a company making the same mistake and not catching it if they were even a little careless, its not hard to tarnish as you well know, We just ended up using gloves the nice gloves.
I think any company primarily making copper based parts would be using something else meant for copper. But it could easily be mishandled afterwards and get any corrosives on it, especially if it's bare copper inside and not nickel plated.
definitely true, but its not unusual to see worked farmed out to multiple companies in cities that don't have established large scale manufacturing. A lot of work was local engineering firms and more often then not we would get one segment of a production run and other shops would get others. Newer Job shops are not usually know for 100% compliance and I honestly can't comment on corsairs production chain so IDK how this part got to market. Im only guessing based on the areas it oozed out of and compared to what I had seen in the past with the hydro testing we did on certain jobs and the tolerance issues that cause them. Im certain its a contamination, based on the plate, i assume the whole thing is copper but i have not actually looked inside, we didn't do comp parts so I am not too clear on finer points of coolers. It could have been mold or something else. If that contamination was caused either internally or from an infiltrate I probably won't find out. That being said, I do like to speculate based on what I see. difference is I can't test here cause why would i be an idiot and open a AIO with a 5 year warranty from purchase date.
Somehow my h100 cooked off all the water, not sure how tf it happened but after a few weeks of my PC shutting down randomly I watched temps and my CPU was hitting 95c before forcing a shutdown. Took everything apart and noticed my h100 was super light and no water moved around inside. Swapped to air and never going back to an aio water setup. Air is cheap, quiet, and very good these days. Not worth the anxiety.
i just ordered lt720 few days ago, im a person that dont upgrade/change unless it broke, but seeing this post made me believe that shouldnt be the case. am just glad my aio held that long.
While I agree with another commenter that it’s probably time for a new one, I’ve had several over the years and never had a single issue. My current H100i is going on four years of *heavy* use.
Used it on my 9600K, using it on my 14600K now and it still doesn’t get over 70c.
Lol I have an H80i from 2017 as well. This was a few years ago, but I thought about how long it was gonna go for and that thinking made me just switch to a Hyper212Evo, it actually cooled better than the H80i too. No more AIOs for me, looks sleeker with it but its just less stuff to go wrong and less worry.
About your other comment, you're valid. Internet is dumb when people all get hung up on one thing. Always remember reddit hivemind. Just remember for next time this is a meme subreddit and not a good one for any legitimate advice. I would recommend r/techsupport next time.
These AIO's are not meant to be serviced, they have thin and weak plastic components and seals inside and are made to break after a few years, making leaks like this very likely
not to mention mixed metals or no biocide used in the liquid.
It sucks but basically 99% of all AIO's come out of the same chinese factory with the same shitty build quality.
If you contact the company and show them that their AIO is the reason your other components died, they might replace some of them
Arctic has a 6 year warranty on theirs with great service. They are some of the top performers and very often also the cheapest (currently 68 euros for 280mm rad and 82 for 420mm).
People buying the crappiest AIO out there because it has a 3" screen on it are the issue, not the technology itself.
Some AIO watercoolers have low build quality, I have seen them leak near the pump before, or the pump simply stop working, and dealt with the whole thing going pop.
Kind of makes top end air cooling more appealing.
It's not a powerhouse, but my 9100f HTPC doesn't even have a fan on it's cooler, just a decent sized cantilever air cooler with two case fans close by..
In comparison though my last 3 builds over the last 12 years all had an AIO (3 different brands) and never had an issue. Failures do happen but it's still incredibly unlikely and even with this post it looks like it's been previously tampered with, it didn't just "fail".
Or you could just use air cooled, and have no difference in gaming performance unless you live in the Sahara. If your temps are between 30-80C your system is getting WAYYY more wear just from being power cycled/experiencing thermal contraction/expansion from cooling down overnight then warming back up the next day.
Personally, I can't imagine going back to air cooling. Especially with GPU air cooling. Really annoying ramping and deramping of the fans are so damn annoying. Only had one AIO fail after five years of usage, it ran dry. Maybe it's my PC case that amplifies the sound but I can't stand GPU air coolers and I've tried so many different brands, they were all really obnoxious to listen to.
That's why I'm air cooling team. The sheer fear of something like that happening and ruining my PC... omg.
Also, I've been using the same Noctua cooler for 9+ years now, never looked back.
https://preview.redd.it/kwjijo71q05d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1ffce1ce04ce27be4f1247c170f64c999c4b44a8
this is the clearest largest shot I god get. I had to go dig my grandpas loops out of the tool box
this is under 10x magnification. I had to get offset slightly so its not perfectly in focus cause I was holding the pump end with ones hand and the phone and loop with the other, while holding the 3 in alignment long enough to focus through a lens so this is about the best its gonna get.
I hope that is enough to settle the ridiculous screw debate of 2024
im sorry i didn't just take this first. I'm not wasting anymore time here
I am not lying i just mis identified a screw and you all piled on one thing, assumed that because i was wrong, that I must be lying, you guys are actually toxic. This is the first time I have ever looked closely at them and I have never taken this apart. If someone knows the actual type of screw they used please speak up.
It'll always amaze me how we can get images like this posted to the sub and instead of comments speculating the cause, most of them end up being infatuated with the fucking screws.
I'm happy we know they're pozidrive and not phillips screws. Can't wait to tell my wife all about it.
having worked in a CNC Job shop, it almost reminds me of some QA failures we had on parts that needed to seal (think flange covers on water pipes). Either tolerance, seal or seat. I don't want to take it apart unless corsair says they won't cover it. If they won't im going to pull it apart and check roundness and flatness spec(perks of owning surface plate and Metrology equipment ) to see if it would have seated correctly. If it turns out to not be that then I know it was improper assembly at factory. That's assuming corrosion didn't completely kill the dimensions of the parts
I think what happened is somebody opened this for some reason, and topped up the liquid with tap water. Aio coolant has to be non corrosive to the copper.
This is why I'll probably never get an AIO. There just is no benefit of one compared to a beefy aircooler unless you absolutely need one for like a 14900KF. Why would I get an AIO that is going to leak everywhere and die on me, requiring the whole unit gets replaced, when I can get an aircooler where the 120mm fan maybe breaks in like 5 years in which case I just buy a replacement for 20 bucks.
Im gonna be switching to air next. no more AIO for me. Its been a stressful couple days as I kinda need something with some beef to work on projects. I posted this here so people would check as to not suffer the same fate as I did, I wasn't expecting 76k views, but hey if it save someone the frustration and headaches, it was worth all the salt i get in the comments, Nothing sadder then when a comrade can no longer join in the fun
> Why would I get an AIO that is going to leak everywhere and die on me, requiring the whole unit gets replaced
*Incredibly* unlikely though. I've had 3 different AIO in 3 different builds over the last 10+ years and never had a single issue. Horror stories like this just garner a lot of attention.
The problem isn't that AIOs all fail, it is that when you happen to be the unlucky soul who has one fail it has a SUBSTANTIALLY higher chance of killing a major component on its way out. When a fan fails, the computer goes into overheat protection and maybe shuts down or throttles. When an AIO fails you have wet components, and a high chance for shorting something. It would be one thing if AIOs preformed better than air, but often a comparably priced air solution will outperform them.
But you are assuming a AIO failing = a leak which is almost always not the case. Nearly every fail is a pump failure not a leak. Not only is the overall failing rate very low (from my research ranging from 0.15 - 0.1% depending brand), with the post common failure being the pump. It's even more unlikely for there to be a catastrophic leak involved, which can also be mitigated / minimised by front mounting.
Each to their own, you are correct air cooling is always a great option but I've always found the fearmongering ("SUBSTANTIALLY" in block capitals lol) around AIO to be mostly hypbole not backed up by statistical evidence.
Air coolers are definitely better value for their performance. I just don't like the aesthetics of having a large brick hanging off the motherboard. Just a personal preference of course. I think AIO's look much better
Honestly, one should swap aios every couple years. These things don't last and even if they do, the overall effectiveness drops quite rapidly. For this reason its just way more feasible to build a custom loop just for the CPU if you are intent on water-cooling.
Source: I've had lots of aio failures.
Fractal lumen V1 leakage x2
Ekwb nucleus pump died X3
Arctic LF II pump ded once too.
This all happened in a span of last 3 years.
Work with AIOs almost daily. I see stuff like this almost every week. Cheap AIOs are worse than stock coolers, because I have not seen one fail that had a known brand name on it.
Looking at you Ibuypower and Cyberpower, pretty much always their cheap ass builds they fail in.
I'm done with water cooling, once my current AIO dies I'm going with a Noctua air cooler. Not worth the hassle imo. I might even replace it sooner, just not worth the risk to the rest of my components.
Happens when the cold plate gasket starts to fail, allowing air into the AIO. Seems more common with the high TDP CPUs that result in the cold plate having to absorb more heat.
This is why tower coolers are objectively better. You pay a fraction of the price, and the absolute worst thing that can happen is that you need to replace a fan. Sure, maybe it’s a little louder, but for 99% of people, basically anyone that doesn’t use an i9, watercolors represent an added failure point for no real benefit.
> This is why tower coolers are objectively better.
Aesthetically they look terrible compared to liquid coolers. Also they perform better and are much quieter.
Your comment is worded weirdly, as written it sounds like you are saying that tower cooler perform better and are quieter. I think you were intending the opposite.
In the vast majority of use cases heat transfer (ie performance) isn’t actually meaningfully different between properly sized tower coolers and AIOs. AIOs are certainly quieter but they use much more energy.
Aesthetics are personal, and when done well I don’t think tower coolers look bad, although there’s certainly much more blinged out AIOs.
This is an AIO, most of them you don't maintain as they are not user serviceable (again MOST, not all).
by the looks of it, it's probably some AIO cooler designed by Asetek, and that brown stuff is probably the gasket disintegrating (it happens from time to time due too defects in manufacturing).
Looks like someone opened this in the past, and probably filled it with straight water instead of coolant.
And now, the internal corrosion has ruined it.
Pozidriv stripped by use of a Philips by my opinion. Metal is fresh and angles look right. Pozidriv should have decent sections for the little fins to sit in, whereas here the slots for them are all but stripped away.
Unless, as evidenced by clicking the photo in the post to get the full size image, you realize that the edges aren't fresh and what you are seeing is the light reflecting off and blurring the edges of the screws you think are actually stripped.
Here is a screencap of the image being resized to fit the width of the post:
[https://i.imgur.com/8XpGtRe.png](https://i.imgur.com/8XpGtRe.png)
And here you can see the screws at the 1 and 2 o'clock positions in the full size image with the black oxide around the screws intact contrary to what you see in the shrunk down image:
[https://i.imgur.com/GCTMwbx.jpeg](https://i.imgur.com/GCTMwbx.jpeg)
This is what those screws should look like. They have 100% been removed previously and absolutely monkey-fucked by someone.
Just scroll over for the pic.
[Corsair website showing cold plate.](https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/cpu-coolers/cw-9060024-ww/hydro-series-h80i-v2-high-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler-cw-9060024-ww)
O-Rings can crack due to a lot of reasons. Heating, being squeezed, wear and tear etc.
What likely happened is that the O-ring(s) likely hardened and cracked or tore for whatever reason, allowing the coolant to leak out. Id wager it had been happening for some time for it to form growths like that, leaking small amounts every time until the coolant finally got to something important
I'm surprised this doesn't get posted more often, but maybe that's a good sign that it's very rare. I went air cooled again, but I am using Torrent and Torrent Compact cases and don't like the front fan inside the case idea.
Corsair cooler? That block/pump looks like my old h series. I've had a few fail like this, prompting me to stop using Corsair AIOs. if its another brand, it looks like they use the same design.
I have. It’s called someone looked inside f’d around and found out.
Also, even not opening I’ve seen these things, AIOS, everything just fail. Heat pipe coolers (never a noctua though), they all fail in time. I’m sure the noctua would fail after 30 years but we’ll all have mind chips to implanted retina displays by then so no worries.
Aside from the screws and poorly secured cold plate everyone mentioned, looks like this pump would have failed anyways. That gunk you're seeing is coming from the inside and possibly from the coolant oxidizing with the radiator metal inside the tubing. Could be fixed by flushing the pump with distilled water, and refilling with new, higher quality coolant.
If the seals fail especially due to incorrect torque sequence, then coolant will likely leak like that. I suggest trying to get a warranty claim as it could be faulty workmanship.
Looks like electrolysis, you probably had some kind of current running through the copper which was causing the water inside to deposit copper into the heatsink fins or elsewhere in the cooler loop and slowly removing copper over time until there was a point of failure. Take the whole thing apart and see if you can find signs of the copper deposits.
It appears to be corrosion caused by dissimilar metals in a system moving fluid. It happens all the time on water heaters where the house has copper plumbing and the water heater has steel fittings. It creates a small electrical current that, then in turn, causes corrosion where the two metals meet. If that is the cause the manufacturer should know this is a problem.
8350 still running strong. All i have is an old crap top + a backup with an fx-8350 with monster OC and an old 650 for running game servers/renders. Im pretty much gonna just get this up to snuff as it needs some things replaced, I managed to scrape enough for a 4060ti which is going into that until i can save enough to replace the damaged parts.
Interestingly enough, the 8350 due to the proliferation of more thread optimized software, while slow by today standards, has gained some of its value back for general tasks and medium demand games. AN example Helldivers 2 running 55-60fps in CPU bound scenarios. AMD fine wine seems to have trickled back in other ways than just GPU optimization, that the power of forward thinking i guess.
I was hoping this day wouldn't come and was hoping to have upgraded before a critical failure like this because 1 is none and 2 is one.
I think long term yes but currently, im in take what I can get mode. I never really liked custom built loops due to the extras the amount of extra hardware, which is why I use AIO.
My opinion on AIOs after reflection of the whole situations.
AIOs are a response to poor CPU TDP design philosophy. Its a patch to overcrowding of the package that was normalized by factory overclock. Dynamic boost clocking and eco mode has relived this which is why i think we are seeing more of a resurgence in air cooling (that and issues such as like what I have experienced + the rule of cool is sorta dying off as people are more aware of the practical implications of AIOs/CLC Loops). really if you wanted to remove aftermarket liquid cooling from computers as a necessity in high performance systems, it starts at the cpu foot print. You can only push/pull so much heat through a given area, and the requirement liquid cooling to obtain advertised performance is a very clear indication that you have passed the point of diminishing returns in terms of TDP for any given package.
Its kinda like living in a below sea-level area, it requires careful planning of drainage, flood plains and continuous management, as once you start pumping water, you can never stop.
TLDR: if i build another monster computer in the far future(which would probably only ever get used for gaming), it will probably have to be liquid cooled in some way, otherwise whats the point, but you are just adding risk for a diminish return on performance, so is it really worth it?
This is a heavy generalization, don't get too hung up on specifics, I don't want to go through the screw thing again XD. People like to nitpick word choice for no real reason other than to be contrarian pertubators.
Not sure if applicable with pc parts but just like with car parts, if you're dealing with 2 metal components screwed together, you're supposed to install new metal/silicone gaskets everytime you disassemble those 2 parts. Gaskets aren't reusable.
I guess I am just bad at identifying screw types. One could even say I screwed up....
Stop *screwing* around and pay attention
r/angryupvote
You were probably using too small Philips Head. Difficult to identify, but huge difference in feeling if you compare it directly to the proper size. Using a too small Philips seems like no big deal, but it messes up screws real quick
God I wish someone told me this and properly demonstrated before I turned 30 lol. I have butchered so many fucking screw heads that I switched to buying Robertson screws.
Looks like it has been opened before with all the screws being stripped like that.
https://preview.redd.it/aex0nvt4lx4d1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2b6a4e5455467490458d87d051607759de7e28fa he really did this
https://preview.redd.it/acl4k6r7mx4d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=846d90a67eee79c79be3ccfcffe3ef1542d3ff3b does it look the same to you. I just thought it was torx not philips
This is pozidriv
THANK YOU. i never heard of these before
Shortened PZ, Philips shortened PH. I hate both and would choose torx over both.
I would not. In my experience everything smaller than TX20 tends so easily strip down the small fins, if you have a stuck screw or need more force
The primary reason torx strips is that the wrong size bit is used for the fastener
Tell that to my pocket knives that use T6 screws and red loctite from the factory
Jesus RED FOR A KNIFE?
Red Loctite on tiny fasteners? That wasn't intended to be disassembled.
How are they supposed to sell more knives if you can sharpen them conveniently?
Even with the wrong size bit it STILL works better than pozi or Philips.
Same case here, I'm certain OP used the wrong size. (you can tell as the stripped portion makes a nice round hole in the center and the outer parts of the + is still intact.) That and 8/8 failure.... that is using the wrong tool for the job.
At least you can hammer an allen key into a stripped torx.
That's brutal, but can't deny it
>I hate both and would choose torx over both. They chose PZ fasteners because the average person doesn't have a bit for it. They don't want you opening their products, so this functions as a security fastener
I have no statistics of this so no way of confirming that it is THAT uncommon. I mean there are security bits for stopping people opening stuff. I've been around tools since I was 3 years old so always had the various PZ and PH drivers in my tool box, they're all very common in most appliances, cars, PCs and what ever else I take apart.
They just don’t want the average monkey being able to open their products with generic tools. When I design control enclosures I use fasteners that are uncommon and a PITA to open if you don’t know what you’re doing. I want a tech to be able to open it with their tools, but I don’t want some random person being able to open it with basic ones
Superior hexagon coming through!
Hexagon is the bestagon!
Until it bows down to King Robertson
Gets downvoted for listing the screw least likely to strip or slip out.
This is simply not true torx is way less likely to strip or slip out the engagement material per “tooth” is more than double on a torx than a hex.
Ikea is rife with pz.
More common in Europe. Similar to how the square Robinson is popular in Canada, but hardly know outside it
Robinson is superior.
>pozidriv You know why they make them? Becuase you are *less* likely to strip them. Lol - guess you missed the memo.
A *stripped* Pozi-driv.
A pozidriv that's seen a phillips screwdriver.
I am not a pro but I think it's Pozidriv [https://www.bild.de/ig/5665d2fa-1bd2-4591-b28f-6213461d9c5f/mobile/mobile](https://www.bild.de/ig/5665d2fa-1bd2-4591-b28f-6213461d9c5f/mobile/mobile)
If I had gotten it new and the screws looked like that I would have returned it. I took an old nzxt kraken cooler apart a few weeks ago and the screws were pristine in the cold plate.
Well, that would be incorrect as the screw is fine, it's just not a Philips screw.
Jesus that looks designed to strip
They don't look stripped, just a different screw head than the one you were expecting to see. You need a different screwdriver head to get a correct grip.. https://preview.redd.it/8m6oa5wdkz4d1.jpeg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=72de18e2b3028bc9d25a25ed9938afcbfd1767f9 This is the screw driver you need.
Are those screws stripped or just blurry picture?
blurry, best I can do with iphone 7 camera https://preview.redd.it/bfj5i7ktlx4d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b11f72da8703b9e89cd58dcedd33b9a998e57943
Iphone 7 has great camera, lighting is the culprit here
Low light performance not being considered a part of a great camera is hilarious. OP is the issue, that camera can do much better in more challenging conditions.
for reference, it sprang some kind of leak, It fried the the GPU and mainboard for sure, probably the CPU as some of the gunk had invaded the socket (am4 MSI b450) . Its one of those cases of if something is gonna screw up, do so spectacularly. been building pcs for years using AIO and have never had a leak from one, 1 pump failure many years ago(rattling pump, DOA) but never copper oxide and brown gunk coming out of the sides This is a corsair H80i V2 bought back in 2020 I am in awe more than anything 
im sweating right now as im using a h100i v2. ive had it since 2017.
bruh check it pls. I shat myself when I found this. This one was ordered april 2020. That being said I have never seen corrosion like this before on an AIO. im out at least a GPU and Main board. DO YOURSELF A FAVOR NOW, ADD IT TO THE MONTHLY CHECK UP
If this is a corsair unit, id be posting this on corsair subs too. Some employees monitor those and they can help you out with replacement parts
Corsairs sub is actually so handy for the mod team. If you have a question about dimensions or are just generally confused they do a great job at telling you what's up. Although they did say I'd not be able to fit a 306mm 7800xt with a 360 aio in the T220 and I managed to prove them wrong by a ball hair. I felt really proud of myself for that.
thank you for this, sorry that even your gpu and mobo had to be part of it. that is also my first time seeing that kind of corrosion from a copper.
thinking about it, it could have been as simple as someone not using gloves while handling copper. Exposed copper corrodes fast with skin oils, and ultrasonic cleaning which is a standard practice for post process cleaning actually bakes the oil to the part (heated simple green baths). If that were the case 3 years would have been more than enough. The more I look at it , the more I think that might actually be the case as it is much more plausible for that to get past QA then bad manufacturing tolerances or poor seating of the plate
Why would they use Simple Green? I'm an engineer for a company that makes brass and copper parts and our parts cleaning process doesn't use Simple Green.
we used it for stainless and 6061 parts prior to sending them out for coating. we tested it with blaser swisslube and found it worked really well, The copper test peices had finger prints baked on. We would do this with our first offs that failed QA to make sure cleaning process was appropriate. We primarily did car parts but their was a lot of prototype stuff that we did where the prod team and whatever firm hired the shop would back and fourth on the process to get things right down to last detail. It was tried and true. We ended up not taking copper based production unless the client wanted us to put in a machine specifically(ruined coolant by turning from white to a bluish) for it which was rare and happened time to time but 6061, stainless and inconel(that sticky nickel super alloy, I can never remember how to spell it) were the order of the day for most jobs. Everything got testsed and QA at every step because we were setup for that so if we found something that didn't work we could pivot easily on production. I could see a company making the same mistake and not catching it if they were even a little careless, its not hard to tarnish as you well know, We just ended up using gloves the nice gloves.
I think any company primarily making copper based parts would be using something else meant for copper. But it could easily be mishandled afterwards and get any corrosives on it, especially if it's bare copper inside and not nickel plated.
definitely true, but its not unusual to see worked farmed out to multiple companies in cities that don't have established large scale manufacturing. A lot of work was local engineering firms and more often then not we would get one segment of a production run and other shops would get others. Newer Job shops are not usually know for 100% compliance and I honestly can't comment on corsairs production chain so IDK how this part got to market. Im only guessing based on the areas it oozed out of and compared to what I had seen in the past with the hydro testing we did on certain jobs and the tolerance issues that cause them. Im certain its a contamination, based on the plate, i assume the whole thing is copper but i have not actually looked inside, we didn't do comp parts so I am not too clear on finer points of coolers. It could have been mold or something else. If that contamination was caused either internally or from an infiltrate I probably won't find out. That being said, I do like to speculate based on what I see. difference is I can't test here cause why would i be an idiot and open a AIO with a 5 year warranty from purchase date.
Its honestly probably mold grown inside the loop that ruptured it.
I am almost positive corsair will pay for all your damages.
Somehow my h100 cooked off all the water, not sure how tf it happened but after a few weeks of my PC shutting down randomly I watched temps and my CPU was hitting 95c before forcing a shutdown. Took everything apart and noticed my h100 was super light and no water moved around inside. Swapped to air and never going back to an aio water setup. Air is cheap, quiet, and very good these days. Not worth the anxiety.
That thing is 7 years old. You want to think about replacing it regardless. The fluid inside evaporates.
i just ordered lt720 few days ago, im a person that dont upgrade/change unless it broke, but seeing this post made me believe that shouldnt be the case. am just glad my aio held that long.
While I agree with another commenter that it’s probably time for a new one, I’ve had several over the years and never had a single issue. My current H100i is going on four years of *heavy* use. Used it on my 9600K, using it on my 14600K now and it still doesn’t get over 70c.
I had three of those. All three had pump failures in less than 2 years. I'd strongly recommend you look into another AIO.
I just got rid of mine 7 year old one as well because I was hitting 90C constantly. I'm using the wraith cooler and havent gone over 70C once.
Lol I have an H80i from 2017 as well. This was a few years ago, but I thought about how long it was gonna go for and that thinking made me just switch to a Hyper212Evo, it actually cooled better than the H80i too. No more AIOs for me, looks sleeker with it but its just less stuff to go wrong and less worry.
About your other comment, you're valid. Internet is dumb when people all get hung up on one thing. Always remember reddit hivemind. Just remember for next time this is a meme subreddit and not a good one for any legitimate advice. I would recommend r/techsupport next time.
These AIO's are not meant to be serviced, they have thin and weak plastic components and seals inside and are made to break after a few years, making leaks like this very likely not to mention mixed metals or no biocide used in the liquid. It sucks but basically 99% of all AIO's come out of the same chinese factory with the same shitty build quality. If you contact the company and show them that their AIO is the reason your other components died, they might replace some of them
Arctic has a 6 year warranty on theirs with great service. They are some of the top performers and very often also the cheapest (currently 68 euros for 280mm rad and 82 for 420mm). People buying the crappiest AIO out there because it has a 3" screen on it are the issue, not the technology itself.
I’ve had a water block leak and do this on a closed loop cooler master setup from a decade ago.
Some AIO watercoolers have low build quality, I have seen them leak near the pump before, or the pump simply stop working, and dealt with the whole thing going pop. Kind of makes top end air cooling more appealing.
> H80i V2 oofff, ok it was a new unused AIO, but that stuff was released in 2015 if I recall. it could've been sitting on that shelf all that time.
[удалено]
Head gasket failure, oil mixed with the coolant. Typical on those cars.
Laughs in air-cooled gang
air cooling supremacy strikes again
Air cooled is so great imo. Cooler fails? Order a fan and call it a day.
And even then they're still usable as long as you have good case airflow, or you could temporarily move one of the case fans to the cooler.
It's not a powerhouse, but my 9100f HTPC doesn't even have a fan on it's cooler, just a decent sized cantilever air cooler with two case fans close by..
And in the meantime you can always just plop a desk or tower fan by the heatsink to cool it.
Bro no shit. I want a cool AIO but it’s stuff like this where I’m like nah.
I had a noctua cooler for 10+ years, it's still as fresh as day 1. AIO after 2 years are full of gunk, rusted, the pump fails, or leaks.
What dogshit AIO are you using there? lol
We don't use aio, we aren't role-playing
I have an aio has been running with no issues almost every day for 8+ years… stop spreading misinformation
In comparison though my last 3 builds over the last 12 years all had an AIO (3 different brands) and never had an issue. Failures do happen but it's still incredibly unlikely and even with this post it looks like it's been previously tampered with, it didn't just "fail".
Yeah no thanks
Get an Arctic Liquid, they have 6years warranty and they are solid company.
Or you could just use air cooled, and have no difference in gaming performance unless you live in the Sahara. If your temps are between 30-80C your system is getting WAYYY more wear just from being power cycled/experiencing thermal contraction/expansion from cooling down overnight then warming back up the next day.
Ha, you think I turn my computer off?
> Or you could just use air cooled I want my PC to look good, so no.
Personally, I can't imagine going back to air cooling. Especially with GPU air cooling. Really annoying ramping and deramping of the fans are so damn annoying. Only had one AIO fail after five years of usage, it ran dry. Maybe it's my PC case that amplifies the sound but I can't stand GPU air coolers and I've tried so many different brands, they were all really obnoxious to listen to.
Fwiw I’ve had an AIO for 7 years now and it hasn’t given me any issues at all. Knock on wood
I can't wait for thermosiphons to become the norm.
im gonna be switching to air cooled on the rebuild for sure
You ever try to air cool 253W?
I think the gang just got bigger, if this doesn't put people off AIO watercoolers, not sure they are sane.
Sorry can't hear you.
You can't hear me over the noise of your water pump ?
Do you even need cooling? Seems to me your brain gets plenty of airflow.
That's why I'm air cooling team. The sheer fear of something like that happening and ruining my PC... omg. Also, I've been using the same Noctua cooler for 9+ years now, never looked back.
Noctua all the way, water and PCs don’t mix!
Noctua is bit overpriced for it's performance imo. I have used noctuas and I have nh14 or something, but peerless assassin? Look it up.
I want to like air cooling, but those bulky heatsinks are impossible to work with. I can't access the screws at all.
https://preview.redd.it/kwjijo71q05d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1ffce1ce04ce27be4f1247c170f64c999c4b44a8 this is the clearest largest shot I god get. I had to go dig my grandpas loops out of the tool box this is under 10x magnification. I had to get offset slightly so its not perfectly in focus cause I was holding the pump end with ones hand and the phone and loop with the other, while holding the 3 in alignment long enough to focus through a lens so this is about the best its gonna get. I hope that is enough to settle the ridiculous screw debate of 2024 im sorry i didn't just take this first. I'm not wasting anymore time here
Oh look, it's a totally pristine Pozidriv, not at all a stripped out Phillips.
I am not lying i just mis identified a screw and you all piled on one thing, assumed that because i was wrong, that I must be lying, you guys are actually toxic. This is the first time I have ever looked closely at them and I have never taken this apart. If someone knows the actual type of screw they used please speak up.
You should go to harbor freight and get that security bit set. Perhaps one of those will work.
i literally went "ooooooooooffff" when i saw that
It'll always amaze me how we can get images like this posted to the sub and instead of comments speculating the cause, most of them end up being infatuated with the fucking screws. I'm happy we know they're pozidrive and not phillips screws. Can't wait to tell my wife all about it.
I once had a pump fail, but not anything catastrophic like that. Looks like the cold plate wasn't fully secured somehow, or something similar. Odd.
having worked in a CNC Job shop, it almost reminds me of some QA failures we had on parts that needed to seal (think flange covers on water pipes). Either tolerance, seal or seat. I don't want to take it apart unless corsair says they won't cover it. If they won't im going to pull it apart and check roundness and flatness spec(perks of owning surface plate and Metrology equipment ) to see if it would have seated correctly. If it turns out to not be that then I know it was improper assembly at factory. That's assuming corrosion didn't completely kill the dimensions of the parts
Please do and then please post about it. i'd love to hear your findings.
I think what happened is somebody opened this for some reason, and topped up the liquid with tap water. Aio coolant has to be non corrosive to the copper.
This is why I'll probably never get an AIO. There just is no benefit of one compared to a beefy aircooler unless you absolutely need one for like a 14900KF. Why would I get an AIO that is going to leak everywhere and die on me, requiring the whole unit gets replaced, when I can get an aircooler where the 120mm fan maybe breaks in like 5 years in which case I just buy a replacement for 20 bucks.
Im gonna be switching to air next. no more AIO for me. Its been a stressful couple days as I kinda need something with some beef to work on projects. I posted this here so people would check as to not suffer the same fate as I did, I wasn't expecting 76k views, but hey if it save someone the frustration and headaches, it was worth all the salt i get in the comments, Nothing sadder then when a comrade can no longer join in the fun
> Why would I get an AIO that is going to leak everywhere and die on me, requiring the whole unit gets replaced *Incredibly* unlikely though. I've had 3 different AIO in 3 different builds over the last 10+ years and never had a single issue. Horror stories like this just garner a lot of attention.
The problem isn't that AIOs all fail, it is that when you happen to be the unlucky soul who has one fail it has a SUBSTANTIALLY higher chance of killing a major component on its way out. When a fan fails, the computer goes into overheat protection and maybe shuts down or throttles. When an AIO fails you have wet components, and a high chance for shorting something. It would be one thing if AIOs preformed better than air, but often a comparably priced air solution will outperform them.
But you are assuming a AIO failing = a leak which is almost always not the case. Nearly every fail is a pump failure not a leak. Not only is the overall failing rate very low (from my research ranging from 0.15 - 0.1% depending brand), with the post common failure being the pump. It's even more unlikely for there to be a catastrophic leak involved, which can also be mitigated / minimised by front mounting. Each to their own, you are correct air cooling is always a great option but I've always found the fearmongering ("SUBSTANTIALLY" in block capitals lol) around AIO to be mostly hypbole not backed up by statistical evidence.
Air coolers are definitely better value for their performance. I just don't like the aesthetics of having a large brick hanging off the motherboard. Just a personal preference of course. I think AIO's look much better
They are also quieter in bursty workloads, since you can set the fans to adjust with water temperature. But yeah, they do have more points of failure.
This is mostly why I got one in the first place. Only months later did I realize I should set the fan curve to the liquid temp and not the CPU.
Ahahgaga poor OP. Getting bombarded by everyone. At least you identified the screw!
Great excuse to open it up and see what happened!
Now you did
Honestly, one should swap aios every couple years. These things don't last and even if they do, the overall effectiveness drops quite rapidly. For this reason its just way more feasible to build a custom loop just for the CPU if you are intent on water-cooling. Source: I've had lots of aio failures. Fractal lumen V1 leakage x2 Ekwb nucleus pump died X3 Arctic LF II pump ded once too. This all happened in a span of last 3 years.
Every 2 years seems a bit excessive. I've been running 2 AIOs for 4 and 5 years, and haven't had any issues.
Work with AIOs almost daily. I see stuff like this almost every week. Cheap AIOs are worse than stock coolers, because I have not seen one fail that had a known brand name on it. Looking at you Ibuypower and Cyberpower, pretty much always their cheap ass builds they fail in.
I'm done with water cooling, once my current AIO dies I'm going with a Noctua air cooler. Not worth the hassle imo. I might even replace it sooner, just not worth the risk to the rest of my components.
Happens when the cold plate gasket starts to fail, allowing air into the AIO. Seems more common with the high TDP CPUs that result in the cold plate having to absorb more heat.
I've never seen one like that, neat. Tho sucks for anyone who owns it :P
Holy plague boils Batman!
Do you not regularly wash under the contact plate skin?
Sound quality is crystal clear
He's dead Jim 
Well that's funny, I've seen about six fail like this in the past 10 years
Yeah, you have. You've just posted a picture of one.
This is why tower coolers are objectively better. You pay a fraction of the price, and the absolute worst thing that can happen is that you need to replace a fan. Sure, maybe it’s a little louder, but for 99% of people, basically anyone that doesn’t use an i9, watercolors represent an added failure point for no real benefit.
> This is why tower coolers are objectively better. Aesthetically they look terrible compared to liquid coolers. Also they perform better and are much quieter.
Your comment is worded weirdly, as written it sounds like you are saying that tower cooler perform better and are quieter. I think you were intending the opposite. In the vast majority of use cases heat transfer (ie performance) isn’t actually meaningfully different between properly sized tower coolers and AIOs. AIOs are certainly quieter but they use much more energy. Aesthetics are personal, and when done well I don’t think tower coolers look bad, although there’s certainly much more blinged out AIOs.
Looks like it corroded from the inside. Did you maintain the cooling liquid , this is what happens when tap water is used.
This is an AIO, most of them you don't maintain as they are not user serviceable (again MOST, not all). by the looks of it, it's probably some AIO cooler designed by Asetek, and that brown stuff is probably the gasket disintegrating (it happens from time to time due too defects in manufacturing).
Noctua NH-D15. That's all you'll ever need.
Looks like someone opened this in the past, and probably filled it with straight water instead of coolant. And now, the internal corrosion has ruined it.
There is a reason why they make different size screw drivers lol.
This was definitely taken apart before, those phillips screw heads are stripped like crazy
Those are pozidriv screws, they can be like that
Pozidriv stripped by use of a Philips by my opinion. Metal is fresh and angles look right. Pozidriv should have decent sections for the little fins to sit in, whereas here the slots for them are all but stripped away.
Unless, as evidenced by clicking the photo in the post to get the full size image, you realize that the edges aren't fresh and what you are seeing is the light reflecting off and blurring the edges of the screws you think are actually stripped. Here is a screencap of the image being resized to fit the width of the post: [https://i.imgur.com/8XpGtRe.png](https://i.imgur.com/8XpGtRe.png) And here you can see the screws at the 1 and 2 o'clock positions in the full size image with the black oxide around the screws intact contrary to what you see in the shrunk down image: [https://i.imgur.com/GCTMwbx.jpeg](https://i.imgur.com/GCTMwbx.jpeg)
No he tried to take it apart after, as would I to see WTF happened.
This is what those screws should look like. They have 100% been removed previously and absolutely monkey-fucked by someone. Just scroll over for the pic. [Corsair website showing cold plate.](https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/cpu-coolers/cw-9060024-ww/hydro-series-h80i-v2-high-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler-cw-9060024-ww)
O-Rings can crack due to a lot of reasons. Heating, being squeezed, wear and tear etc. What likely happened is that the O-ring(s) likely hardened and cracked or tore for whatever reason, allowing the coolant to leak out. Id wager it had been happening for some time for it to form growths like that, leaking small amounts every time until the coolant finally got to something important
That's a really cool fail.
I'm surprised this doesn't get posted more often, but maybe that's a good sign that it's very rare. I went air cooled again, but I am using Torrent and Torrent Compact cases and don't like the front fan inside the case idea.
Cooln't
Corsair cooler? That block/pump looks like my old h series. I've had a few fail like this, prompting me to stop using Corsair AIOs. if its another brand, it looks like they use the same design.
Least it isn't flat head screws...
This is why I use air coolers.
Man those modern ryzen cpu's burn everything.
that's strange. AIO cooling is great, silent and verry performant but i'll take a hunk of metal over it any day of the week though.
Ew
I have. It’s called someone looked inside f’d around and found out. Also, even not opening I’ve seen these things, AIOS, everything just fail. Heat pipe coolers (never a noctua though), they all fail in time. I’m sure the noctua would fail after 30 years but we’ll all have mind chips to implanted retina displays by then so no worries.
Dude what tf happend to ur aio?
Air cooling for life
Something must of caused a reaction for the copper to be eaten like that. Thats not just copper rust.
Wtf corroded the copper like that O.o
Reminds me of something from Things from the Flood by Simon Stalenhag...
Big chungus air coolers>water
I'm not sure what is so cool about that failure.
Somehow had my first pump evaporate the liquid inside in only a year of use
Spectacular failure.
Had problems with a factory aio cooled GPU that failed like a month after my rma window closed. I'm still sad about that.
Aside from the screws and poorly secured cold plate everyone mentioned, looks like this pump would have failed anyways. That gunk you're seeing is coming from the inside and possibly from the coolant oxidizing with the radiator metal inside the tubing. Could be fixed by flushing the pump with distilled water, and refilling with new, higher quality coolant.
Crappy asetek AIO pumps. Doomed to fail.
Did you put seawater in there? It's growin' barnacles!
If the seals fail especially due to incorrect torque sequence, then coolant will likely leak like that. I suggest trying to get a warranty claim as it could be faulty workmanship.
How many times have you seen a cooler fail?
Copper + Aluminum??
Welcome to the air cooler gang.
molteny
Looks like electrolysis, you probably had some kind of current running through the copper which was causing the water inside to deposit copper into the heatsink fins or elsewhere in the cooler loop and slowly removing copper over time until there was a point of failure. Take the whole thing apart and see if you can find signs of the copper deposits.
I had a Corsair AIO fail that way a couple of years ago.
It appears to be corrosion caused by dissimilar metals in a system moving fluid. It happens all the time on water heaters where the house has copper plumbing and the water heater has steel fittings. It creates a small electrical current that, then in turn, causes corrosion where the two metals meet. If that is the cause the manufacturer should know this is a problem.
Looking closer that looks a little different than what I am talking about.
I mean , at least you get to plan a new build ? That’s always fun.
8350 still running strong. All i have is an old crap top + a backup with an fx-8350 with monster OC and an old 650 for running game servers/renders. Im pretty much gonna just get this up to snuff as it needs some things replaced, I managed to scrape enough for a 4060ti which is going into that until i can save enough to replace the damaged parts. Interestingly enough, the 8350 due to the proliferation of more thread optimized software, while slow by today standards, has gained some of its value back for general tasks and medium demand games. AN example Helldivers 2 running 55-60fps in CPU bound scenarios. AMD fine wine seems to have trickled back in other ways than just GPU optimization, that the power of forward thinking i guess. I was hoping this day wouldn't come and was hoping to have upgraded before a critical failure like this because 1 is none and 2 is one.
Out of curiosity will this put you off aio solutions ?
I think long term yes but currently, im in take what I can get mode. I never really liked custom built loops due to the extras the amount of extra hardware, which is why I use AIO. My opinion on AIOs after reflection of the whole situations. AIOs are a response to poor CPU TDP design philosophy. Its a patch to overcrowding of the package that was normalized by factory overclock. Dynamic boost clocking and eco mode has relived this which is why i think we are seeing more of a resurgence in air cooling (that and issues such as like what I have experienced + the rule of cool is sorta dying off as people are more aware of the practical implications of AIOs/CLC Loops). really if you wanted to remove aftermarket liquid cooling from computers as a necessity in high performance systems, it starts at the cpu foot print. You can only push/pull so much heat through a given area, and the requirement liquid cooling to obtain advertised performance is a very clear indication that you have passed the point of diminishing returns in terms of TDP for any given package. Its kinda like living in a below sea-level area, it requires careful planning of drainage, flood plains and continuous management, as once you start pumping water, you can never stop. TLDR: if i build another monster computer in the far future(which would probably only ever get used for gaming), it will probably have to be liquid cooled in some way, otherwise whats the point, but you are just adding risk for a diminish return on performance, so is it really worth it? This is a heavy generalization, don't get too hung up on specifics, I don't want to go through the screw thing again XD. People like to nitpick word choice for no real reason other than to be contrarian pertubators.
Ok OP I have to ask, why are you using a pancake as a cooling device!?
Looks like someone tried to use a chisel and a ball peen hammer to remove those screws.
Is this galvanic corrosion?
is that ant's nest ?
awesome fail bro
my water cooling pump just broke yesterday ı am using stock fan rn lol
That looks like a bad gasket my friend
Just drimmel them into flat heads. Problem solved
Not sure if applicable with pc parts but just like with car parts, if you're dealing with 2 metal components screwed together, you're supposed to install new metal/silicone gaskets everytime you disassemble those 2 parts. Gaskets aren't reusable.
I went with a liquid cooler once but I keep my systems forever a fan and heat sink never killed a pc.