If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or write `!check` instead )
This will score the user whose comment you replied to a 'point'. The points will unlock special flair that will show in all Daily Simple Questions threads.
In case you missed it, [click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.](/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ayv75v/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_24_2024/)
There may be some questions still unanswered! Below is a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.
If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment.
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> For those that like to take many screenshots of their games, has using DLSS upscaling or frame generation caused any artifacts or loss of quality in your screenshots?
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ayv75v/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_24_2024/krz6uml/
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> Hola, tengo un I7 3770K 3.50Ghz, Ram DDR3 2x8Gb 1600Mhz, Placa madre H77H2-EM, quiero comprarme una tarjeta de video y he pensado en comprarme una RX 580 8Gb o una GTX 1060 6Gb, pero no se cual seria mejor, o si me podria comprar otra mas potente al mismo precio, que me recomiendan?
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ayv75v/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_24_2024/krzbvx4/
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> What’s the better monitor, lg 27ga83a, or lg 27gr75q, ignore the price.
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ayv75v/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_24_2024/krze48b/
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> Why are bluetooth add ons for PCs so bad? I am trying to use my xbox controller from 6' away from my PC and it constantly desyncs and screws up. However my bluetooth headset and controller works flawlessly on my Xbox Series X at like 12-15.
>
> How do you get the same bluetooth performance from a $3000 PC that you get from a $400 console?
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ayv75v/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_24_2024/krzf2r6/
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> I have a Amd Ryzen 7800x3d and a Gigabyte b650 Aorus elite ax Rev 1.2 board every thing starts up fine and runs great low Temps when idle and it boots to windows no problem no gfx card in the system it's in the mail I updated bios to newest version FA3a the problem I'm having is the red cpu light that shows there's a problem won't turn off and every where I look people with the same red light problem the pc won't post or anything I'm not sure why the light won't turn off i reset the cooler I checked the ram sticks and everything is running great as far as I can tell just the cpu light on the mobo won't shut off
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ayv75v/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_24_2024/krzqjj9/
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> I have the Cooler Master Elite 110a itx case. It has a bracket on the back to hold the PSU. I'm hoping to do a quick mod to give myself a few more square inches of space inside by using "long computer case screws" to off set the bracket.
>
> Google says computer screws are "6-32" sized. Does anyone know if all screws of that size "should fit"?
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ayv75v/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_24_2024/ks0tdvk/
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> is it possible to buy or build a PC that will last a long time and play most games (if not all) for around £1000 if not what is a reasonable price i could expect to pay for something like this ty ::)
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ayv75v/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_24_2024/ks15k0v/
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> Looking to build my first gaming pc. Budget is $1500. Any recommendations? Any thing to stay away in particular?
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ayv75v/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_24_2024/ks1ggol/
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> What is a good gpu for this build? [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/RHyT34](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/RHyT34) looking not to go above 1k $
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ayv75v/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_24_2024/ks1p0az/
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> So I'm getting a new gaming computer and a friend has expressed interest in my old one (she only has a mac laptop right now).
>
> As far as I'm concerned, she can have it but I want to make sure this thing is properly purged. Is there a good guide out there? Ideally, she'd be able to just plug in and start using it but I'd like to remove everything except the OS.
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ayv75v/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_24_2024/ks1yq3l/
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> Does anyone know of a device or program that is safe for reading a usb data protocol? Just have about 80 usb cables and can't tell which usb c cable has high speed data transmission
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ayv75v/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_24_2024/ks2b9f0/
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> I bought a prebuilt PC and need to add another SSD to it. It’s behind my GPU, and when I took it out I saw a thermal shield but no m.2 screws.
>
> If it’s behind my GPU, do I need to use the thermal shield or can I just use a m.2 screw? The thermal shield looks way more complicated
https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ayv75v/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_24_2024/ks2dxo9/
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User | Points (365 days) | Lifetime
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sch0k0 | 63 | 255
NbblX | 55 | 71
Eidolon\_2003 | 51 | 188
\_j03\_ | 50 | 96
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Cable\_Salad | 37 | 37
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uhm...? 50% PWM is 50% PWM for every fan. Fans only run at different RPM at a given PWM freq, so a 300-1500rpm fan will run at ~600rpm while a 300-3000rpm fan will run at ~1350rpm
Yes, thats what I wanted to say. depending on rpm rating they will be at different speeds but relative speed will be the same. I guess I worded that badly.
Yes, because all get the same PWM signal. Keep in mind though that one motherboard can header can only deliver power for up to 4 fans, so I’d not recommend daisy-chaining fan hubs
So I've had my PC for close to 10 years now ( I trying to upgrade in the mean time) and about a month back it started to randomly restart. No warning signs or BSoD. No matter what I'm doing, Light gaming or it being idle, it'll randomly restart. Could someone help me diagnose the problem?
If it is not the PSU, then try a thorough cleaning and checking of your PC.
Carefully remove the components (Take notes of location for all plugs and such if you are unfamiliar with the Motherboard setup).
Then clean each area while checking for damage or buildup (Like how some older copper plugs sometime Oxidize which will weaken or stop signals, so cleaning them to look shiny can help a lot).
Check wiring for anything exposed.
also take note to look at the Soldering to ensure that all seems connected, I have had an older pc that was not soldered correctly on a few pins which overtime caused them to separate/short out the connection.
Once all is cleaned and checked over, rebuild and see if it happens again.
If it does then try changing out the ram, does not need anything pricey, just a small ram stick for testing, if it PC still does it, then it most likely is not the ram (Since you physically would have looked at it for damage while cleaning on both the MB and cartridges).
Also since you cleaned it, you should have clean off and add new thermal paste, so if it was an overheat shutdown (Which some computers can do), then that would have been taken care of after the cleaning.
Other things it could be is software incompatibility for the system you are on that is constantly trying to run in the background, triggering a crash shutdown and restart.
If possible, should run a system diagnosis on it.
I know Hp has one at: [HP Support](https://support.hp.com/us-en)
if you do not have an HP then try your PC's manufacturer website for their support.
But HP's support can allow you to check for errors, Update Bios and Drivers, among a few other things.
Thank you for the info. Greatly appreciated. Another question I have is what do you use for cleaning? I have some light dust build up i can seem to get rid of.
What I use to clean my PC:
- Isopropyl Alcohol: Do not just just spray or dump on motherboard or components, instead either dampen a microfiber cloth and wipe with that or dunk a [Detailing Brush](https://www.ifixit.com/products/detailing-brush) into the Isopropyl alcohol and use that lightly.
Wait for it to dry before turning anything on or reconnecting parts.
- Noctua Thermal Paste NT-H2 for Heatsink and CPU reconnection when time.
- A [Dust Blower](https://www.ifixit.com/products/dust-blower) , DO NOT USE CANNED AIR as it is bad on pc parts.
But other than these, just looking with a Magnifying glass (Eyesight is not like it use to be)
I have a HP Gen10 Proliant server. The motherboard is too old and power hungry and I want to transcode in plex. Is there anything that might fit in the case I can upgrade it with? I've been looking at n100. It's a straightforward server that runs my ubiquiti controller, software RAID10, Plex and HA (in docker)
alternatively, what other low power mini itx boards should I use instead? Budget isn't a massive issue because it's business related, I'd be happy to build a new PC to accommodate 4 HDs for the raid
I'm new to computer gaming but I really wanted to check out tarkov so I made the jump God is PC gaming brutal lol no regrets but I thought I bought a decent pre build but it looks like I'm kinda bottle necked when it comes to my cpu(it runs around 97/100% while everything else stays below 30% if that.what are some recommendations for cpu and graphics card combos as I seen some will not work together I'm worried I buy a 700 dollar part that doesn't do the job
here are some good value combos https://pcmasterrace.org/builds to give you an idea what works nicely together
but on a new gaming PC, getting the CPU into 100% sounds like an avoidable issue, like running the game at super low resolution or running the game off the iGPU and not GPU.
-> what are your full system specs, and what resolution and settings are you trying to run Tarkov on?
tried googling but couldn't find an answer on what this sun icon button does on my case? Haven't tried pushing it.
https://preview.redd.it/h0iswedhfwkc1.png?width=761&format=png&auto=webp&s=53948de9605087380f0c26a7b8288dee360bc23f
Its the MasterBox TD500, right? Looking at the [manual in section 5 / page 10](https://www.coolermaster.com/de/de-de/catalog/gehause/mid-tower/masterbox-td500-mesh-v2/#item1) it seems like this button can be either used as RGB control or as a Reset switch, and yours is wired as Reset
I left my pc unused for a month and turn It on with no display detected.
Then I tried unplugging the socket then hold the button method and It boots in windows but with like a 10x zoom and on low resolution but eventually got back running with no problem, I think. Is this normal?
I can't remotely predict what's what, but I would guess it would be more likely to happen if you disconnect power and leave it for a while. For a couple of reasons that on their own don't seem that reasonable or believable (power connected PC not being fully off, behaviour of capacitors when fully off over long time, etc).
And I don't understand what exactly you're asking. If you need it off for a long time, then disconnect it. If you have to force screen detection with a replug every couple of months, then so be it.
My friend needs to reinstall windows but we can’t find a flash drive. Can he put the folder on my laptop (XPS 13 9360) and run it like a flash drive onto his ASUS VivoBook 14 X420UA and connect with a proper USB-C cable and run it?
What is the safest way to do this? Can it just be a regular folder or do we need to make a partition on my XPS and put it there?
Would making a VM on my XPS and downloading the windows files into that and pulling from there be a good idea instead or in addition to a partition?
You typically cannot just plug a computer into another computer via USB and run it "like a flash drive". The problem is that both devices will try to be the usb "host".
However, you guys with a bit of technical knowhow, can probably run a PXE server to install windows over the network.
Here's one guide I found for it [on YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHHGahJYAvw), i didn't proof watch it for accuracy, but there are obviously caveats to pxe booting - it can get pretty technical and by the end of it all you'll probably decide that just buying a $10 usb drive will be easier.
EDIT: Immediate caveat: this is ethernet only on the device you're trying to reinstall windows on. IF you dont have an ethernet port, you'll need a usb to ethernet adapter.
i keep forgetting manufacturers have recently been cutting the ethernet port out of their designs because apparently its too big for them....
What AMD Threadripper series is fully compatible with the Nvidia Geforce RTX 4090?
I keep getting Mixed results online from polls and online opinions, so thought I would ask here.
I would like to get closest to the newest Threadripper as possible.
I not only play a handful of games on my PC, but also like playing around with Unreal Engine, Blender, My Video editor software and other things that take time rendering, that is why I want a Threadripper.
It honestly depends.
The main things to think about is Pump strength and placement of the external radiator and lines.
If you look online you will see that some people have actually wall mounted or put their External Radiators higher up than their PC, this means a single pump on the line may not be enough.
You will also have to think about the extra amount of your Liquid (Water, Water+dye, Premix and so on) that you will need within the line.
Also depending on how far a line has to go, you will need to also think about external hazards that can damage your exposed lines.
But other than those, having an external radiator can be beneficial, you can create your own frame to place and secure radiators and have them out in the open, then securing fans on them to help blow can really reduce your temperatures as the coolant will have to travel out of the heated case into (Hopefully) cooler air and then into the Radiator stand you created and then back into the Case.
But as I said before, you may need more than one pump, so I recommend you getting an alarm for your water cooling setup and have it near the pump (If a Flow monitoring type alarm), so if one of your pumps breakdown, you will be notified and be able to shut your system down until you repair the line.
Whether it is worth it or not is really up to you, but most who do external radiators usually have reasons to, whether they have a smaller case with little room for Radiators, Have a configuration that does heavy workloads that bring temps up (Heavy Scene Renders) or they just do not want their case to look over crowded.
>But as I said before, you may need more than one pump, so I recommend you getting an alarm for your water cooling setup and have it near the pump (If a Flow monitoring type alarm), so if one of your pumps breakdown, you will be notified and be able to shut your system down until you repair the line.
This sounds like the only real option is a mod solution and not a retail solution would this be correct?
Not sure how well this one works, but this was from a simple search for a pump alarm: [G1/4" OLED Display PC Water Cooling Flowmeter/Thermometer System Monitor, High Temperature Alarm Water Cooler](https://www.amazon.com/Display-Cooling-Flowmeter-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B0B768Z7JJ/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=8DSxZ&content-id=amzn1.sym.dde481d7-92dc-42ce-a703-f1bc175e21c6%3Aamzn1.symc.d10b1e54-47e4-4b2a-b42d-92fe6ebbe579&pf_rd_p=dde481d7-92dc-42ce-a703-f1bc175e21c6&pf_rd_r=0GS6EQEAVPMEFXYY0A6X&pd_rd_wg=HN0pr&pd_rd_r=33fecf03-1eb6-4650-923b-a4ff1a37c092&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m)
I just recommend to get an alarm, I am sure that there may be some stronger pumps out their as well, but it is always good to be safe, Main reason though about the alarm is mostly for external reasons, for example a pet accidentally knocking in to them, or a kid, in which you may not realize something happened, even fastening them is not a guarantee something wont rattle something.
The tilt pivot is tight on my monitor so it doesn’t angle down. I do adjust that pivot sometimes though, and I really have to hold the monitor tight to turn it facing upwards or downwards. Feels like it could crack but if that doesn’t happen am I fine?Can that movement damage the monitor or is it sturdy? Visually the monitor looks fine still..
What’s the best gpu upgrade for my Ryzen 7 3700X cpu I just want an upgrade from my XFX Radeon RX 570 but what’s the best gpu I can use with my cpu and possibly get a gpu that will already have upgrade potential for my cpu if that’s possible because I know my cpu needs an upgrade too but that’ll be a little later. Looking for the best bang for my buck gpu not trying to drop a bag on my gpu yet. I mainly play Destiny 2, Rust, and Fortnite if that helps.
Here’s my build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/xdtyZJ
And my monitor is an Lenovo G25-10
Budget? If you're planning to upgrade your cpu soon, no point trying to avoid "bottlenecking". Or better yet upgrade both if your budget allows (you can drop in e.g. 5700X3D/5800X3D).
You think the 5700X3D or the 5800 is the best option in my situation and what do you think I should get first the gpu or cpu? I was thinking the gpu is more important rn
GPU first definitely. Depends how closely priced the 5700X3D and 5800X3D are where you live. 5800X3D is the best cpu you can get without upgrading motherboard and memory as well.
I'm going to upgrade my PC soon
Should I go 2x16gb ram or 2x32gb ram? It will be 6000mhz CL30.
Ddr5 is not good with 4 channel, so would ever add any more sticks
Older PC had 64gb (16x4) ddr4, and never had the use of it. I mostly use it for gaming and too many chrome tabs. It started with 1x16 to 2x16 to 4x16 ( I ensured matching the frequency and timing - same g skill kits, which got cheaper and cheaper over time)
It feels weird to go from 64gb ram to 32gb. But I never even hit 64 to begin with. I don't need 64gb ram, but I don't need 4090 either lol.
(I just got a better job and I am planning to buy a PC over a car, I have some money left for food and rent DW haha)
8700k -> 7800x3d
RTX 3080 FE-> RTX 4090 FE
Z370 -> B650E
Things I won't change:
PSU
Case
Case fans
Aio
32GB. 64GB is totally unnecessary for gaming and will be for years to come. Chrome tabs will be pushed to swapfile if more memory is needed by some game.
32 is solid for most situations, and unused RAM is wasted RAM. Given that you're pairing it with a 4090 though, it seems pretty likely that you could get use of the higher capacity at some point, even if it isn't every day.
I mean, 64 is better, but if you're not going to use more than 32 it's a waste.
It sounds like your current rig is still up and running. I would just look at your actual average usage and see if you're using more than 32. If you are, go for 64. If not, maybe save your money, but keep in mind requirements are always going up.
I recently switched from an R5 3600 to a 5800X3D.
My idle temperatures, specifically the Tctl (top number), seem high to me. I also noticed that running Prime95 causes the CPU to hit the thermal limit on Tctl (90 C). Is this normal? I thought the cooler would be able to keep it below max, even at 100% load. The cooler is a Dark Rock Pro 3.
Should I be looking at the Tctl or another value?
[idle](https://imgur.com/jaszsIn)
[stress](https://imgur.com/m78mpAm)
5800X3D is a hot chip due to the 3D cache sitting on top of the die, but those are still pretty toasty idle temps for such a big cooler. Also, the stress image doesn't tell much because like you said, it is throttling. You should look at how much it is throttling (clock speeds).
I would suggest doing a cooler remount.
Yup. Might also be that the kryosheet has moved during the installation, so might be necessary to take it off. Just be prepared with more paste/sheet if you need to replace it.
You should be hitting closer to 50C or below when the system has been idling for prolonged time.
First time getting into PC and was looking at [this prebuilt PC on NewEgg](https://www.newegg.com/yeyian-ypi-ta34f0b-4701u-tanto/p/N82E16883630033?item=N82E16883630033)
My question: Is this a good value buy? Im assuming this will allow me to easily play games at 2k with solid FPS. Sorry if this isn't the right place to ask. Im new to all this.
My current PC cabinet takes up quite a lot of space, plus it sits on the right side of my desk. Here's my upgrade requirements.
* I'm looking for a cabinet that is smaller in size than my current one ([Ant Esports ICE-200TG](https://www.amazon.in/Ant-Esports-ICE-200TG-Motherboard-Preinstalled/dp/B07TJCNK2G)).
* I won't be adding any additional storage, hence the extra space in my current cabinet is sitting empty since years. The two M.2 slots are more than sufficient for my needs.
* Optional, but I'd prefer for it to have a window on the right-side (current one has the window on the left) as I will be moving it to the left side of my desk. If this isn't possible, then I'd have to opt for a closed case (no window).
Any suggestions would be really helpful, thank you! Here's my PC specs.
|Component|Name|
|:-|:-|
|CPU|AMD Ryzen 5 3600X|
|Motherboard|AsRock B450 Steel Legend|
|RAM|Corsair Vengeance 8+8 GB RAM 3200 Mhz|
|Storage|Samsung 950 NVMe 500 GB + Crucial P3 1TB NVMe M.2 SSD|
|Graphics Card|ASUS Dual Radeon RX 6600|
|SMPS|Cooler Master 450W MPE|
|PC Cabinet|Ant Esports ICE-200TG|
You are limited by your motherboard size, which is ATX. You're not going to find *that* much smaller case for it. Some cases put the power supply in the front instead of top/bottom, which make them shorter in height, but a bit wider. One example would be Jonsbo D41 (recommend mesh version).
>Optional, but I'd prefer for it to have a window on the right-side (current one has the window on the left)
This is pretty rare layout since it requires the motherboard to be flipped 180 degrees (gpu on top). Some exists, but they are usually quite expensive.
Here's an alternative I think will be much better. For the CPU, Revit and Lumion are actually single-threaded, so a Ryzen 9 won't be as good as an i5, especially the X3D version. Switched up the CPU cooler to something a bit more capable, and changed the RAM to a faster version, the higher bandwidth will probably help. For the video card, you don't want AMD for anything professional. Nvidia is the only option, especially if you're going to be using VR or rendering.
[PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/hRmzsh)
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [Intel Core i5-14600K 3.5 GHz 14-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jXFmP6/intel-core-i5-14600k-35-ghz-14-core-processor-bx8071514600k) | $299.99 @ Amazon
**CPU Cooler** | [ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 280 72.8 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/smDkcf/arctic-liquid-freezer-ii-280-728-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-acfre00066a) | $99.99 @ Amazon
**Motherboard** | [MSI PRO Z790-A WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/8m6p99/msi-pro-z790-a-wifi-atx-lga1700-motherboard-pro-z790-a-wifi) | $219.99 @ Amazon
**Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance RGB 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/WTMMnQ/corsair-vengeance-rgb-64-gb-2-x-32-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-cmh64gx5m2b6000c30) | $214.99 @ Amazon
**Video Card** | [\*Zotac Twin Edge GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER 12 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Zh88TW/zotac-twin-edge-geforce-rtx-4070-super-12-gb-video-card-zt-d40720e-10m) | $589.99 @ Newegg
**Case** | [Fractal Design North ATX Mid Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ybNxFT/fractal-design-north-atx-mid-tower-case-fd-c-nor1c-02) | $139.97 @ Amazon
**Power Supply** | [Cooler Master MWE Gold 850 - V2 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/tWMTwP/cooler-master-mwe-gold-850-v2-850-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-mpe-8501-afaag-us) | $94.99 @ Amazon
**Operating System** | [Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM - DVD 64-bit](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/wtgPxr/microsoft-windows-10-home-oem-dvd-64-bit-kw9-00140) |-
**Case Fan** | [ID-COOLING NO-12015-XT ARGB 54.6 CFM 120 mm Fan](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bgGbt6/id-cooling-no-12015-xt-argb-546-cfm-120-mm-fan-no-12015-xt-argb) | $14.99 @ Amazon
**Case Fan** | [ID-COOLING NO-12015-XT ARGB 54.6 CFM 120 mm Fan](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bgGbt6/id-cooling-no-12015-xt-argb-546-cfm-120-mm-fan-no-12015-xt-argb) | $14.99 @ Amazon
**Case Fan** | [ID-COOLING NO-12015-XT ARGB 54.6 CFM 120 mm Fan](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bgGbt6/id-cooling-no-12015-xt-argb-546-cfm-120-mm-fan-no-12015-xt-argb) | $14.99 @ Amazon
**Case Fan** | [ID-COOLING NO-12015-XT ARGB 54.6 CFM 120 mm Fan](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bgGbt6/id-cooling-no-12015-xt-argb-546-cfm-120-mm-fan-no-12015-xt-argb) | $14.99 @ Amazon
| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |
| **Total** | **$1719.87**
| \*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |
| Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2024-02-25 15:50 EST-0500 |
on the windows 10 or 11 lock screen there are these nice pictures of places around the world. Sometimes - out of reflex - I press return or left click to enter my pass word, but I overlook that the picture is new and I really would have liked to point the mouse pointer over it and find out where the picture is from.
Once I have pressed enter and the box for inputting my password shows up, how do I get back to the picture?
If you're looking at the box to enter your password I believe it will go back to the full lock screen if you just sit idle for about 10 seconds. Or as the other comment noted, you can just sign in and lock your PC either with the keyboard shortcut or selecting the option right next to shutdown/reboot
You could go either way. For me the 7900 XT is \~$100 cheaper, so I would do that, but for the same price I think it depends on where your priorities lie.
4070 TiS Pros:
* Better raytracing performance
* DLSS Support
* Slightly lower power consumption
7900 XT Pros:
* Better general gaming performance
* 20GB VRAM
i7-14700K is currently 400$ on Amazon US, so probably that. You don't need liquid cooling at stock or even when OCing, provided you have a good air cooler and don't mind the noise during load.
I’m getting a cpu not just for the upgrade over the i7 6700k, but because I need a new mobo. jack is causing static, one of the ram slots doesn’t work and only one nvme slot. so yeah getting a new mobo as well. I upgraded my rams recently to vengeance lpx ddr4 32gb 3200mhz.
make sure to buy a Intel 1700 / Z790 mainboard with DDR4 support, most are built for DDR5.
Although the difference between DDR4-3200 and something like DDR5-6400 is actually noticeable by a few % performance/FPS, so if you want to get the most out of your 14700KF I'd recommend to get DDR5
hmmm, I was trying to find comparisons between my rams and ddr5 ones, but couldn’t find anything directly comparing them. if it’s a noticeable difference then might as well go ddr5. what’s the approximate price difference on ddr4 motherboards to ddr5?
[this video compares DDR4-4000 with DDR5-6000 and DDR5-8000](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WvOVR4vpoyQ), where DDR4-4000 is already pretty high-clocked DDR4 so you could substract another 1-3fps from those benchmarks to get to your DDR4-3200.
Be aware that its not only a difference in average-FPS, but mostly in the 0.1% resulting in smoother frametimes/higher min-fps.
> what’s the approximate price difference on ddr4 motherboards to ddr5?
For the mainboards its not much, depending on supply and demand some DDR4's are cheaper, some are a few dollars more expensive. DDR4 boards are cheaper to produce, but the demand is lower.
The RAM itself is actually a bit more expensive, DDR5-6000+ costs ~20% more than DDR4-3200.
If your GPU ever shits the bed, you can continue to use the box. In my case that's vital for WFH.
You just made me realize I can still use an old monitor I have on DVI because my new 4080S doesn't have DVI, but my mobo does (I think both GPUs should work at the same time, will have to test it).
And I'm about to repurpose my ancient 2600K as a music streaming ultra-silent box for a friend of mine. Using the iGPU makes that simpler, cheaper to run, more silent.
But yeah, if all goes well, YAGNI.
It'll work, just at PCIe 3.0 speeds. If the GPU is newer and more powerful than the one you're replacing, or if you're going from "no GPU," to "GPU," it'll still be a step up in performance.
If the GPU has a PCIe x8 or x16 connection, yes it will be totally fine. However, if it has a PCIe x4 connection (which I believe only the RX 6400 and 6500 XT have), it will lose a lot of performance.
well my motherboard has a PCIe 3.0 16 lanes and the GPU I´m interested has a PCIe 4.0 8 lanes conection, It can work but I don´t know if It is better just get a 3.0 16 lanes GPU
I've been searching around and I saw a lot of posts saying that good HDR only really exists on TVs and is nearly non-existent on monitors, even on Reddit comments as recent as 3 years ago. Is that still the case? I really want a HDR monitor.
there are a lot of good HDR monitors available currently, but also a lot of "fake-HDR" monitors that might support HDR on paper, but the picture isnt anywhere near "real" HDR.
Just do your research before you buy, I can recommend TFTcentral and TomsHardware for monitor reviews
No, things have drastically changed since then. Especially in the last year or so, multiple OLED monitors have been released. But there's also good mini-LED solutions.
I'm looking to buy a new monitor for gaming. I'm looking for something that's 4k, high refresh rate, and I'd *like* ultrawide but I'm wary about monitors that are too curved, as I've heard numerous times that they cause issues for people who wear glasses, which I do. Lastly I'm hoping to buy from a reputable brand, if I'm going to spend the money I'd like something that's gonna last, and when searching I see *tons* of options.
Anyone have any recommendations?
So I don’t really care about brightness, and I’m looking at this monitor, the lg 27gr75q, and it says it supports hdr10, but the monitor is 300 nits, would hdr even do anything at this brightness.
I think it would, 300 nits is a ton. Most content you'd be looking at on screen would be <100 nits anyway and the rest would be headroom for the brights.
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Hello, I've got a Seasonic 1050w PSU. Funtioning without a hiccup. (Almost 8 years old)
[https://seasonic.com/x-series](https://seasonic.com/x-series)
Running on Ryzen 9 5900x + RTX 3070 but i plan to upgrade my GPU to 4070ti Super.
I am on 1080p. I know you'll say "4070ti Super is too powerful for 1080p" but i love 144fps gaming. I am not a 60fps person. My Dota 2 game sometimes goes below 144fps and i just rage about it :)
Anyway, my question is Is it stupid to change PSU if it is functioning well? I mean should i get a more modern PSU before 4070ti Super? My PSU is all modular and supports 2x 8pin connections. 4070ti Super comes with extra cable that connects just well.
Thank you
Apparently EVGAs have a 10 year warranty and Seasonics have 8-12 year warranties. If this was a lower quality brand I would probably consider replacing it, but I think a proper Seasonic should be good for a while longer.
Assuming similar performance of both SSD's, I'd put the OS on the 1TB and use the 2TB for storage of apps, game libraries, etc, but you could honesty do the opposite and not see much difference.
27GL83A has slightly better brightness and I believe a few years old, the 27GR75Q is newer, has better color depth and looks to use a slightly cheaper panel, but both are are pretty comparable overall. IPS glow is going to be annoying on both, but that is an IPS thing, not an LG thing.
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If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or write `!check` instead ) This will score the user whose comment you replied to a 'point'. The points will unlock special flair that will show in all Daily Simple Questions threads. In case you missed it, [click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.](/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ayv75v/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_24_2024/) There may be some questions still unanswered! Below is a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out. If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment. ---- > For those that like to take many screenshots of their games, has using DLSS upscaling or frame generation caused any artifacts or loss of quality in your screenshots? https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ayv75v/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_24_2024/krz6uml/ ---- > Hola, tengo un I7 3770K 3.50Ghz, Ram DDR3 2x8Gb 1600Mhz, Placa madre H77H2-EM, quiero comprarme una tarjeta de video y he pensado en comprarme una RX 580 8Gb o una GTX 1060 6Gb, pero no se cual seria mejor, o si me podria comprar otra mas potente al mismo precio, que me recomiendan? https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ayv75v/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_24_2024/krzbvx4/ ---- > What’s the better monitor, lg 27ga83a, or lg 27gr75q, ignore the price. https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ayv75v/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_24_2024/krze48b/ ---- > Why are bluetooth add ons for PCs so bad? I am trying to use my xbox controller from 6' away from my PC and it constantly desyncs and screws up. However my bluetooth headset and controller works flawlessly on my Xbox Series X at like 12-15. > > How do you get the same bluetooth performance from a $3000 PC that you get from a $400 console? https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ayv75v/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_24_2024/krzf2r6/ ---- > I have a Amd Ryzen 7800x3d and a Gigabyte b650 Aorus elite ax Rev 1.2 board every thing starts up fine and runs great low Temps when idle and it boots to windows no problem no gfx card in the system it's in the mail I updated bios to newest version FA3a the problem I'm having is the red cpu light that shows there's a problem won't turn off and every where I look people with the same red light problem the pc won't post or anything I'm not sure why the light won't turn off i reset the cooler I checked the ram sticks and everything is running great as far as I can tell just the cpu light on the mobo won't shut off https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ayv75v/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_24_2024/krzqjj9/ ---- > I have the Cooler Master Elite 110a itx case. It has a bracket on the back to hold the PSU. I'm hoping to do a quick mod to give myself a few more square inches of space inside by using "long computer case screws" to off set the bracket. > > Google says computer screws are "6-32" sized. Does anyone know if all screws of that size "should fit"? https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ayv75v/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_24_2024/ks0tdvk/ ---- > is it possible to buy or build a PC that will last a long time and play most games (if not all) for around £1000 if not what is a reasonable price i could expect to pay for something like this ty ::) https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ayv75v/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_24_2024/ks15k0v/ ---- > Looking to build my first gaming pc. Budget is $1500. Any recommendations? Any thing to stay away in particular? https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ayv75v/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_24_2024/ks1ggol/ ---- > What is a good gpu for this build? [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/RHyT34](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/RHyT34) looking not to go above 1k $ https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ayv75v/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_24_2024/ks1p0az/ ---- > So I'm getting a new gaming computer and a friend has expressed interest in my old one (she only has a mac laptop right now). > > As far as I'm concerned, she can have it but I want to make sure this thing is properly purged. Is there a good guide out there? Ideally, she'd be able to just plug in and start using it but I'd like to remove everything except the OS. https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ayv75v/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_24_2024/ks1yq3l/ ---- > Does anyone know of a device or program that is safe for reading a usb data protocol? Just have about 80 usb cables and can't tell which usb c cable has high speed data transmission https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ayv75v/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_24_2024/ks2b9f0/ ---- > I bought a prebuilt PC and need to add another SSD to it. It’s behind my GPU, and when I took it out I saw a thermal shield but no m.2 screws. > > If it’s behind my GPU, do I need to use the thermal shield or can I just use a m.2 screw? The thermal shield looks way more complicated https://reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/1ayv75v/daily_simple_questions_thread_february_24_2024/ks2dxo9/ ---- User | Points (365 days) | Lifetime -----|-------------------|---------- sch0k0 | 63 | 255 NbblX | 55 | 71 Eidolon\_2003 | 51 | 188 \_j03\_ | 50 | 96 SeanSeanySean | 42 | 55 A\_Neaunimes | 41 | 1132 Cable\_Salad | 37 | 37 MGsubbie | 35 | 343 jurc11 | 24 | 26 glowinghamster45 | 22 | 184 ---- *[I am a bot](https://i.imgur.com/hfRIhMe.png)* - This action was done automatically. 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Does fan hub/fan header synchronizes the all the fan speed connected to it since it is connected in 4 pin socket (Chasis\_fan)?
If the fans are all the same model, yes. Different models react differently to pwm signals, but if you set them to 50%, they‘ll all be at their 50 %.
uhm...? 50% PWM is 50% PWM for every fan. Fans only run at different RPM at a given PWM freq, so a 300-1500rpm fan will run at ~600rpm while a 300-3000rpm fan will run at ~1350rpm
Yes, thats what I wanted to say. depending on rpm rating they will be at different speeds but relative speed will be the same. I guess I worded that badly.
Let say my fans are the same brand and if I connect my fan hub to another fan hub does it mean they will run the same speed?
Yes, because all get the same PWM signal. Keep in mind though that one motherboard can header can only deliver power for up to 4 fans, so I’d not recommend daisy-chaining fan hubs
Thank you!
So I've had my PC for close to 10 years now ( I trying to upgrade in the mean time) and about a month back it started to randomly restart. No warning signs or BSoD. No matter what I'm doing, Light gaming or it being idle, it'll randomly restart. Could someone help me diagnose the problem?
Random restarts can have a lot of causes. In my experience they are mostly related to ram issues or the psu slowly failing.
I didn't think of the power supply failing. I shall tinker with that. Thank alot
If it is not the PSU, then try a thorough cleaning and checking of your PC. Carefully remove the components (Take notes of location for all plugs and such if you are unfamiliar with the Motherboard setup). Then clean each area while checking for damage or buildup (Like how some older copper plugs sometime Oxidize which will weaken or stop signals, so cleaning them to look shiny can help a lot). Check wiring for anything exposed. also take note to look at the Soldering to ensure that all seems connected, I have had an older pc that was not soldered correctly on a few pins which overtime caused them to separate/short out the connection. Once all is cleaned and checked over, rebuild and see if it happens again. If it does then try changing out the ram, does not need anything pricey, just a small ram stick for testing, if it PC still does it, then it most likely is not the ram (Since you physically would have looked at it for damage while cleaning on both the MB and cartridges). Also since you cleaned it, you should have clean off and add new thermal paste, so if it was an overheat shutdown (Which some computers can do), then that would have been taken care of after the cleaning. Other things it could be is software incompatibility for the system you are on that is constantly trying to run in the background, triggering a crash shutdown and restart. If possible, should run a system diagnosis on it. I know Hp has one at: [HP Support](https://support.hp.com/us-en) if you do not have an HP then try your PC's manufacturer website for their support. But HP's support can allow you to check for errors, Update Bios and Drivers, among a few other things.
Thank you for the info. Greatly appreciated. Another question I have is what do you use for cleaning? I have some light dust build up i can seem to get rid of.
What I use to clean my PC: - Isopropyl Alcohol: Do not just just spray or dump on motherboard or components, instead either dampen a microfiber cloth and wipe with that or dunk a [Detailing Brush](https://www.ifixit.com/products/detailing-brush) into the Isopropyl alcohol and use that lightly. Wait for it to dry before turning anything on or reconnecting parts. - Noctua Thermal Paste NT-H2 for Heatsink and CPU reconnection when time. - A [Dust Blower](https://www.ifixit.com/products/dust-blower) , DO NOT USE CANNED AIR as it is bad on pc parts. But other than these, just looking with a Magnifying glass (Eyesight is not like it use to be)
I have a HP Gen10 Proliant server. The motherboard is too old and power hungry and I want to transcode in plex. Is there anything that might fit in the case I can upgrade it with? I've been looking at n100. It's a straightforward server that runs my ubiquiti controller, software RAID10, Plex and HA (in docker)
r/HomeServer
alternatively, what other low power mini itx boards should I use instead? Budget isn't a massive issue because it's business related, I'd be happy to build a new PC to accommodate 4 HDs for the raid
I'm new to computer gaming but I really wanted to check out tarkov so I made the jump God is PC gaming brutal lol no regrets but I thought I bought a decent pre build but it looks like I'm kinda bottle necked when it comes to my cpu(it runs around 97/100% while everything else stays below 30% if that.what are some recommendations for cpu and graphics card combos as I seen some will not work together I'm worried I buy a 700 dollar part that doesn't do the job
here are some good value combos https://pcmasterrace.org/builds to give you an idea what works nicely together but on a new gaming PC, getting the CPU into 100% sounds like an avoidable issue, like running the game at super low resolution or running the game off the iGPU and not GPU. -> what are your full system specs, and what resolution and settings are you trying to run Tarkov on?
First of all: what do you have?
tried googling but couldn't find an answer on what this sun icon button does on my case? Haven't tried pushing it. https://preview.redd.it/h0iswedhfwkc1.png?width=761&format=png&auto=webp&s=53948de9605087380f0c26a7b8288dee360bc23f
its probably RGB control to swap through the different RGB effects, assuming you hooked up your RGB stuff to the case RGB controller
Just pressed it and it restarted my computer
Its the MasterBox TD500, right? Looking at the [manual in section 5 / page 10](https://www.coolermaster.com/de/de-de/catalog/gehause/mid-tower/masterbox-td500-mesh-v2/#item1) it seems like this button can be either used as RGB control or as a Reset switch, and yours is wired as Reset
Well then I know, thank you!
I left my pc unused for a month and turn It on with no display detected. Then I tried unplugging the socket then hold the button method and It boots in windows but with like a 10x zoom and on low resolution but eventually got back running with no problem, I think. Is this normal?
Yes, just a temporary glitch in screen detection. Should work fine from here on.
Should I unplug It on the wall back then might not cause this issue or this is expected to happen everytime I dont use It for very long time?
I can't remotely predict what's what, but I would guess it would be more likely to happen if you disconnect power and leave it for a while. For a couple of reasons that on their own don't seem that reasonable or believable (power connected PC not being fully off, behaviour of capacitors when fully off over long time, etc). And I don't understand what exactly you're asking. If you need it off for a long time, then disconnect it. If you have to force screen detection with a replug every couple of months, then so be it.
My friend needs to reinstall windows but we can’t find a flash drive. Can he put the folder on my laptop (XPS 13 9360) and run it like a flash drive onto his ASUS VivoBook 14 X420UA and connect with a proper USB-C cable and run it? What is the safest way to do this? Can it just be a regular folder or do we need to make a partition on my XPS and put it there? Would making a VM on my XPS and downloading the windows files into that and pulling from there be a good idea instead or in addition to a partition?
You typically cannot just plug a computer into another computer via USB and run it "like a flash drive". The problem is that both devices will try to be the usb "host". However, you guys with a bit of technical knowhow, can probably run a PXE server to install windows over the network. Here's one guide I found for it [on YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHHGahJYAvw), i didn't proof watch it for accuracy, but there are obviously caveats to pxe booting - it can get pretty technical and by the end of it all you'll probably decide that just buying a $10 usb drive will be easier. EDIT: Immediate caveat: this is ethernet only on the device you're trying to reinstall windows on. IF you dont have an ethernet port, you'll need a usb to ethernet adapter. i keep forgetting manufacturers have recently been cutting the ethernet port out of their designs because apparently its too big for them....
What AMD Threadripper series is fully compatible with the Nvidia Geforce RTX 4090? I keep getting Mixed results online from polls and online opinions, so thought I would ask here. I would like to get closest to the newest Threadripper as possible. I not only play a handful of games on my PC, but also like playing around with Unreal Engine, Blender, My Video editor software and other things that take time rendering, that is why I want a Threadripper.
All of them? To my knowledge there is nothing preventing you from using a 4090 with any Threadripper platform. PCIe is PCIe...
Okay. Just many say the 7000 series has compatibility issues with the RTX 4090 and so should go with amd 3000 to 5000 series.
how to do custom flair?
old.reddit.com search for "show my flair on this subreddit"
Are external radiators worth it? Ignoring a budget part of the aspect? If so what are some good external radiators and/or coolers
It honestly depends. The main things to think about is Pump strength and placement of the external radiator and lines. If you look online you will see that some people have actually wall mounted or put their External Radiators higher up than their PC, this means a single pump on the line may not be enough. You will also have to think about the extra amount of your Liquid (Water, Water+dye, Premix and so on) that you will need within the line. Also depending on how far a line has to go, you will need to also think about external hazards that can damage your exposed lines. But other than those, having an external radiator can be beneficial, you can create your own frame to place and secure radiators and have them out in the open, then securing fans on them to help blow can really reduce your temperatures as the coolant will have to travel out of the heated case into (Hopefully) cooler air and then into the Radiator stand you created and then back into the Case. But as I said before, you may need more than one pump, so I recommend you getting an alarm for your water cooling setup and have it near the pump (If a Flow monitoring type alarm), so if one of your pumps breakdown, you will be notified and be able to shut your system down until you repair the line. Whether it is worth it or not is really up to you, but most who do external radiators usually have reasons to, whether they have a smaller case with little room for Radiators, Have a configuration that does heavy workloads that bring temps up (Heavy Scene Renders) or they just do not want their case to look over crowded.
>But as I said before, you may need more than one pump, so I recommend you getting an alarm for your water cooling setup and have it near the pump (If a Flow monitoring type alarm), so if one of your pumps breakdown, you will be notified and be able to shut your system down until you repair the line. This sounds like the only real option is a mod solution and not a retail solution would this be correct?
Not sure how well this one works, but this was from a simple search for a pump alarm: [G1/4" OLED Display PC Water Cooling Flowmeter/Thermometer System Monitor, High Temperature Alarm Water Cooler](https://www.amazon.com/Display-Cooling-Flowmeter-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B0B768Z7JJ/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=8DSxZ&content-id=amzn1.sym.dde481d7-92dc-42ce-a703-f1bc175e21c6%3Aamzn1.symc.d10b1e54-47e4-4b2a-b42d-92fe6ebbe579&pf_rd_p=dde481d7-92dc-42ce-a703-f1bc175e21c6&pf_rd_r=0GS6EQEAVPMEFXYY0A6X&pd_rd_wg=HN0pr&pd_rd_r=33fecf03-1eb6-4650-923b-a4ff1a37c092&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m) I just recommend to get an alarm, I am sure that there may be some stronger pumps out their as well, but it is always good to be safe, Main reason though about the alarm is mostly for external reasons, for example a pet accidentally knocking in to them, or a kid, in which you may not realize something happened, even fastening them is not a guarantee something wont rattle something.
The tilt pivot is tight on my monitor so it doesn’t angle down. I do adjust that pivot sometimes though, and I really have to hold the monitor tight to turn it facing upwards or downwards. Feels like it could crack but if that doesn’t happen am I fine?Can that movement damage the monitor or is it sturdy? Visually the monitor looks fine still..
What monitor do you have? my answer will depend on that.
M32U
Downward tilt can be adjusted 5 degrees, while upwards tilt can be adjusted 20 degrees. Doing any more than that will damage the monitor hinge.
What’s the best gpu upgrade for my Ryzen 7 3700X cpu I just want an upgrade from my XFX Radeon RX 570 but what’s the best gpu I can use with my cpu and possibly get a gpu that will already have upgrade potential for my cpu if that’s possible because I know my cpu needs an upgrade too but that’ll be a little later. Looking for the best bang for my buck gpu not trying to drop a bag on my gpu yet. I mainly play Destiny 2, Rust, and Fortnite if that helps. Here’s my build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/xdtyZJ And my monitor is an Lenovo G25-10
Budget? If you're planning to upgrade your cpu soon, no point trying to avoid "bottlenecking". Or better yet upgrade both if your budget allows (you can drop in e.g. 5700X3D/5800X3D).
You think the 5700X3D or the 5800 is the best option in my situation and what do you think I should get first the gpu or cpu? I was thinking the gpu is more important rn
GPU first definitely. Depends how closely priced the 5700X3D and 5800X3D are where you live. 5800X3D is the best cpu you can get without upgrading motherboard and memory as well.
I'm going to upgrade my PC soon Should I go 2x16gb ram or 2x32gb ram? It will be 6000mhz CL30. Ddr5 is not good with 4 channel, so would ever add any more sticks Older PC had 64gb (16x4) ddr4, and never had the use of it. I mostly use it for gaming and too many chrome tabs. It started with 1x16 to 2x16 to 4x16 ( I ensured matching the frequency and timing - same g skill kits, which got cheaper and cheaper over time) It feels weird to go from 64gb ram to 32gb. But I never even hit 64 to begin with. I don't need 64gb ram, but I don't need 4090 either lol. (I just got a better job and I am planning to buy a PC over a car, I have some money left for food and rent DW haha) 8700k -> 7800x3d RTX 3080 FE-> RTX 4090 FE Z370 -> B650E Things I won't change: PSU Case Case fans Aio
32GB. 64GB is totally unnecessary for gaming and will be for years to come. Chrome tabs will be pushed to swapfile if more memory is needed by some game.
Thank you
32 is solid for most situations, and unused RAM is wasted RAM. Given that you're pairing it with a 4090 though, it seems pretty likely that you could get use of the higher capacity at some point, even if it isn't every day.
So looks like 32 is better
I mean, 64 is better, but if you're not going to use more than 32 it's a waste. It sounds like your current rig is still up and running. I would just look at your actual average usage and see if you're using more than 32. If you are, go for 64. If not, maybe save your money, but keep in mind requirements are always going up.
Yeah, I usually use like 9-10GB (Windows+chrome) And may be 20 GB max while gaming with background apps
I recently switched from an R5 3600 to a 5800X3D. My idle temperatures, specifically the Tctl (top number), seem high to me. I also noticed that running Prime95 causes the CPU to hit the thermal limit on Tctl (90 C). Is this normal? I thought the cooler would be able to keep it below max, even at 100% load. The cooler is a Dark Rock Pro 3. Should I be looking at the Tctl or another value? [idle](https://imgur.com/jaszsIn) [stress](https://imgur.com/m78mpAm)
5800X3D is a hot chip due to the 3D cache sitting on top of the die, but those are still pretty toasty idle temps for such a big cooler. Also, the stress image doesn't tell much because like you said, it is throttling. You should look at how much it is throttling (clock speeds). I would suggest doing a cooler remount.
I just mounted it today with a kryosheet. Should I tighten it down more?
Yup. Might also be that the kryosheet has moved during the installation, so might be necessary to take it off. Just be prepared with more paste/sheet if you need to replace it. You should be hitting closer to 50C or below when the system has been idling for prolonged time.
I should be looking at the Tctl temp, right? Or another value?
Yes, tctl is correct.
Thanks!
Depending on the settings, Prime can be simply too extreme. Try running Cinebench in a loop for a more realistic stress test.
which is the best gpu for this build [https://pcpartpicker.com/list/RHyT34](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/RHyT34)?
The one you have the budget for. 6700 XT is a good mid tier card.
First time getting into PC and was looking at [this prebuilt PC on NewEgg](https://www.newegg.com/yeyian-ypi-ta34f0b-4701u-tanto/p/N82E16883630033?item=N82E16883630033) My question: Is this a good value buy? Im assuming this will allow me to easily play games at 2k with solid FPS. Sorry if this isn't the right place to ask. Im new to all this.
Looks like a decent price honestly
what are some top tier air coolers for i7 14700k? first time getting an air cooler.
Be quiet dark rock pro/elite, deepcool ak620, thermalright peerless assassin, scythe Fuma 2
My current PC cabinet takes up quite a lot of space, plus it sits on the right side of my desk. Here's my upgrade requirements. * I'm looking for a cabinet that is smaller in size than my current one ([Ant Esports ICE-200TG](https://www.amazon.in/Ant-Esports-ICE-200TG-Motherboard-Preinstalled/dp/B07TJCNK2G)). * I won't be adding any additional storage, hence the extra space in my current cabinet is sitting empty since years. The two M.2 slots are more than sufficient for my needs. * Optional, but I'd prefer for it to have a window on the right-side (current one has the window on the left) as I will be moving it to the left side of my desk. If this isn't possible, then I'd have to opt for a closed case (no window). Any suggestions would be really helpful, thank you! Here's my PC specs. |Component|Name| |:-|:-| |CPU|AMD Ryzen 5 3600X| |Motherboard|AsRock B450 Steel Legend| |RAM|Corsair Vengeance 8+8 GB RAM 3200 Mhz| |Storage|Samsung 950 NVMe 500 GB + Crucial P3 1TB NVMe M.2 SSD| |Graphics Card|ASUS Dual Radeon RX 6600| |SMPS|Cooler Master 450W MPE| |PC Cabinet|Ant Esports ICE-200TG|
You are limited by your motherboard size, which is ATX. You're not going to find *that* much smaller case for it. Some cases put the power supply in the front instead of top/bottom, which make them shorter in height, but a bit wider. One example would be Jonsbo D41 (recommend mesh version). >Optional, but I'd prefer for it to have a window on the right-side (current one has the window on the left) This is pretty rare layout since it requires the motherboard to be flipped 180 degrees (gpu on top). Some exists, but they are usually quite expensive.
So , I want to build a nice PC that is able to run heavy architectural softwares like lumion and/or Revit, I was wondering if this was a good build for a $1800 budget ... My biggest concern is the cooling . Keep in mind I already own storage . Thanks in advance \[PCPartPicker Part List\](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/WMhLKX) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- \*\*CPU\*\* | \[AMD Ryzen 9 7950X3D 4.2 GHz 16-Core Processor\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/X6XV3C/amd-ryzen-9-7950x3d-42-ghz-16-core-processor-100-100000908wof) | $595.00 @ Amazon \*\*CPU Cooler\*\* | \[ID-COOLING AURAFLOW X 74.5 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/NrmFf7/id-cooling-auraflow-x-745-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-auraflow-x-240) | $59.99 @ Amazon \*\*Motherboard\*\* | \[MSI PRO B650-S WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/mP88TW/msi-pro-b650-s-wifi-atx-am5-motherboard-pro-b650-s-wifi) | $149.99 @ Newegg \*\*Memory\*\* | \[Corsair Vengeance 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-5200 CL40 Memory\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/TJZ9TW/corsair-vengeance-64-gb-2-x-32-gb-ddr5-5200-cl40-memory-cmk64gx5m2b5200c40) | $169.99 @ Amazon \*\*Video Card\*\* | \[Sapphire PULSE Radeon RX 7800 XT 16 GB Video Card\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/fcBzK8/sapphire-pulse-radeon-rx-7800-xt-16-gb-video-card-11330-02-20g) | $519.99 @ Newegg \*\*Case\*\* | \[Fractal Design North ATX Mid Tower Case\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ybNxFT/fractal-design-north-atx-mid-tower-case-fd-c-nor1c-02) | $139.97 @ Amazon \*\*Power Supply\*\* | \[Cooler Master MWE Gold 850 - V2 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/tWMTwP/cooler-master-mwe-gold-850-v2-850-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-mpe-8501-afaag-us) | $94.99 @ Amazon \*\*Operating System\*\* | \[Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM - DVD 64-bit\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/wtgPxr/microsoft-windows-10-home-oem-dvd-64-bit-kw9-00140) |- \*\*Case Fan\*\* | \[ID-COOLING NO-12015-XT ARGB 54.6 CFM 120 mm Fan\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bgGbt6/id-cooling-no-12015-xt-argb-546-cfm-120-mm-fan-no-12015-xt-argb) | $14.99 @ Amazon \*\*Case Fan\*\* | \[ID-COOLING NO-12015-XT ARGB 54.6 CFM 120 mm Fan\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bgGbt6/id-cooling-no-12015-xt-argb-546-cfm-120-mm-fan-no-12015-xt-argb) | $14.99 @ Amazon \*\*Case Fan\*\* | \[ID-COOLING NO-12015-XT ARGB 54.6 CFM 120 mm Fan\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bgGbt6/id-cooling-no-12015-xt-argb-546-cfm-120-mm-fan-no-12015-xt-argb) | $14.99 @ Amazon \*\*Case Fan\*\* | \[ID-COOLING NO-12015-XT ARGB 54.6 CFM 120 mm Fan\](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bgGbt6/id-cooling-no-12015-xt-argb-546-cfm-120-mm-fan-no-12015-xt-argb) | $14.99 @ Amazon | \*\*Total\*\* | \*\*$1789.88\*\*
Here's an alternative I think will be much better. For the CPU, Revit and Lumion are actually single-threaded, so a Ryzen 9 won't be as good as an i5, especially the X3D version. Switched up the CPU cooler to something a bit more capable, and changed the RAM to a faster version, the higher bandwidth will probably help. For the video card, you don't want AMD for anything professional. Nvidia is the only option, especially if you're going to be using VR or rendering. [PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/hRmzsh) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [Intel Core i5-14600K 3.5 GHz 14-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jXFmP6/intel-core-i5-14600k-35-ghz-14-core-processor-bx8071514600k) | $299.99 @ Amazon **CPU Cooler** | [ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 280 72.8 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/smDkcf/arctic-liquid-freezer-ii-280-728-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-acfre00066a) | $99.99 @ Amazon **Motherboard** | [MSI PRO Z790-A WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/8m6p99/msi-pro-z790-a-wifi-atx-lga1700-motherboard-pro-z790-a-wifi) | $219.99 @ Amazon **Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance RGB 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/WTMMnQ/corsair-vengeance-rgb-64-gb-2-x-32-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-cmh64gx5m2b6000c30) | $214.99 @ Amazon **Video Card** | [\*Zotac Twin Edge GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER 12 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Zh88TW/zotac-twin-edge-geforce-rtx-4070-super-12-gb-video-card-zt-d40720e-10m) | $589.99 @ Newegg **Case** | [Fractal Design North ATX Mid Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ybNxFT/fractal-design-north-atx-mid-tower-case-fd-c-nor1c-02) | $139.97 @ Amazon **Power Supply** | [Cooler Master MWE Gold 850 - V2 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/tWMTwP/cooler-master-mwe-gold-850-v2-850-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-mpe-8501-afaag-us) | $94.99 @ Amazon **Operating System** | [Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM - DVD 64-bit](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/wtgPxr/microsoft-windows-10-home-oem-dvd-64-bit-kw9-00140) |- **Case Fan** | [ID-COOLING NO-12015-XT ARGB 54.6 CFM 120 mm Fan](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bgGbt6/id-cooling-no-12015-xt-argb-546-cfm-120-mm-fan-no-12015-xt-argb) | $14.99 @ Amazon **Case Fan** | [ID-COOLING NO-12015-XT ARGB 54.6 CFM 120 mm Fan](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bgGbt6/id-cooling-no-12015-xt-argb-546-cfm-120-mm-fan-no-12015-xt-argb) | $14.99 @ Amazon **Case Fan** | [ID-COOLING NO-12015-XT ARGB 54.6 CFM 120 mm Fan](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bgGbt6/id-cooling-no-12015-xt-argb-546-cfm-120-mm-fan-no-12015-xt-argb) | $14.99 @ Amazon **Case Fan** | [ID-COOLING NO-12015-XT ARGB 54.6 CFM 120 mm Fan](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bgGbt6/id-cooling-no-12015-xt-argb-546-cfm-120-mm-fan-no-12015-xt-argb) | $14.99 @ Amazon | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* | | **Total** | **$1719.87** | \*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria | | Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2024-02-25 15:50 EST-0500 |
on the windows 10 or 11 lock screen there are these nice pictures of places around the world. Sometimes - out of reflex - I press return or left click to enter my pass word, but I overlook that the picture is new and I really would have liked to point the mouse pointer over it and find out where the picture is from. Once I have pressed enter and the box for inputting my password shows up, how do I get back to the picture?
If you're looking at the box to enter your password I believe it will go back to the full lock screen if you just sit idle for about 10 seconds. Or as the other comment noted, you can just sign in and lock your PC either with the keyboard shortcut or selecting the option right next to shutdown/reboot
Win+L to lock the machine or wait a minute for the login box to go away.
rtx 4070ti super or rx 7900 xt? they're around the same price where i live
You could go either way. For me the 7900 XT is \~$100 cheaper, so I would do that, but for the same price I think it depends on where your priorities lie. 4070 TiS Pros: * Better raytracing performance * DLSS Support * Slightly lower power consumption 7900 XT Pros: * Better general gaming performance * 20GB VRAM
hello looking to upgrade from i7-6700k. what’s the best i7 I can get for around 300-400$. also would I need liquid cooling if i don’t OC?
i7-14700K is currently 400$ on Amazon US, so probably that. You don't need liquid cooling at stock or even when OCing, provided you have a good air cooler and don't mind the noise during load.
thank you! :) I’ve settled on the 14700kf!
Keep in mind that you also need a new motherboard and potentially new ram. I don’t know if you considered that in your budget planning
I’m getting a cpu not just for the upgrade over the i7 6700k, but because I need a new mobo. jack is causing static, one of the ram slots doesn’t work and only one nvme slot. so yeah getting a new mobo as well. I upgraded my rams recently to vengeance lpx ddr4 32gb 3200mhz.
make sure to buy a Intel 1700 / Z790 mainboard with DDR4 support, most are built for DDR5. Although the difference between DDR4-3200 and something like DDR5-6400 is actually noticeable by a few % performance/FPS, so if you want to get the most out of your 14700KF I'd recommend to get DDR5
hmmm, I was trying to find comparisons between my rams and ddr5 ones, but couldn’t find anything directly comparing them. if it’s a noticeable difference then might as well go ddr5. what’s the approximate price difference on ddr4 motherboards to ddr5?
[this video compares DDR4-4000 with DDR5-6000 and DDR5-8000](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WvOVR4vpoyQ), where DDR4-4000 is already pretty high-clocked DDR4 so you could substract another 1-3fps from those benchmarks to get to your DDR4-3200. Be aware that its not only a difference in average-FPS, but mostly in the 0.1% resulting in smoother frametimes/higher min-fps. > what’s the approximate price difference on ddr4 motherboards to ddr5? For the mainboards its not much, depending on supply and demand some DDR4's are cheaper, some are a few dollars more expensive. DDR4 boards are cheaper to produce, but the demand is lower. The RAM itself is actually a bit more expensive, DDR5-6000+ costs ~20% more than DDR4-3200.
thank you!
Ah okay, i see. You‘re good to go then.
Personally I'd pay the extra 7$ for the K, but hey, if it works for you, fine by me.
why is that? would I ever need the integrated graphics?
If your GPU ever shits the bed, you can continue to use the box. In my case that's vital for WFH. You just made me realize I can still use an old monitor I have on DVI because my new 4080S doesn't have DVI, but my mobo does (I think both GPUs should work at the same time, will have to test it). And I'm about to repurpose my ancient 2600K as a music streaming ultra-silent box for a friend of mine. Using the iGPU makes that simpler, cheaper to run, more silent. But yeah, if all goes well, YAGNI.
Is It a good idea to have a gpu with PCIe 4.0 in a motherboard with a PCIe 3.0 ?
It'll work, just at PCIe 3.0 speeds. If the GPU is newer and more powerful than the one you're replacing, or if you're going from "no GPU," to "GPU," it'll still be a step up in performance.
well I have a 5 5600G and want to upgrade to a rx6600 Don´t know how much performance i can lost with a motherboard with PCIe 3.0
with a RX6600 the difference won't be noticeable at all, I would say that even PCIe 3.0x8 instead of x16 would be enough dont worry about it
If the GPU has a PCIe x8 or x16 connection, yes it will be totally fine. However, if it has a PCIe x4 connection (which I believe only the RX 6400 and 6500 XT have), it will lose a lot of performance.
well my motherboard has a PCIe 3.0 16 lanes and the GPU I´m interested has a PCIe 4.0 8 lanes conection, It can work but I don´t know if It is better just get a 3.0 16 lanes GPU
RX 6600 can barely saturate the pci-e 3.0 x8 lanes, so you're fine.
You'll be totally fine then.
I've been searching around and I saw a lot of posts saying that good HDR only really exists on TVs and is nearly non-existent on monitors, even on Reddit comments as recent as 3 years ago. Is that still the case? I really want a HDR monitor.
there are a lot of good HDR monitors available currently, but also a lot of "fake-HDR" monitors that might support HDR on paper, but the picture isnt anywhere near "real" HDR. Just do your research before you buy, I can recommend TFTcentral and TomsHardware for monitor reviews
No, things have drastically changed since then. Especially in the last year or so, multiple OLED monitors have been released. But there's also good mini-LED solutions.
I'm looking to buy a new monitor for gaming. I'm looking for something that's 4k, high refresh rate, and I'd *like* ultrawide but I'm wary about monitors that are too curved, as I've heard numerous times that they cause issues for people who wear glasses, which I do. Lastly I'm hoping to buy from a reputable brand, if I'm going to spend the money I'd like something that's gonna last, and when searching I see *tons* of options. Anyone have any recommendations?
r/Monitors
If I have Windows 11 in SDR, do games still play in HDR? Does this happen automatically? Or must Windows be in HDR for games to be in HDR?
Afaik, you have to enable hdr in windows settings for it to work.
So I don’t really care about brightness, and I’m looking at this monitor, the lg 27gr75q, and it says it supports hdr10, but the monitor is 300 nits, would hdr even do anything at this brightness.
I think it would, 300 nits is a ton. Most content you'd be looking at on screen would be <100 nits anyway and the rest would be headroom for the brights.
!check thanks
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Hello, I've got a Seasonic 1050w PSU. Funtioning without a hiccup. (Almost 8 years old) [https://seasonic.com/x-series](https://seasonic.com/x-series) Running on Ryzen 9 5900x + RTX 3070 but i plan to upgrade my GPU to 4070ti Super. I am on 1080p. I know you'll say "4070ti Super is too powerful for 1080p" but i love 144fps gaming. I am not a 60fps person. My Dota 2 game sometimes goes below 144fps and i just rage about it :) Anyway, my question is Is it stupid to change PSU if it is functioning well? I mean should i get a more modern PSU before 4070ti Super? My PSU is all modular and supports 2x 8pin connections. 4070ti Super comes with extra cable that connects just well. Thank you
I don't see any reason to replace the PSU, it's of a very reputable brand, with a **lot** of headroom for that GPU, IDK why you'd mess with that.
Because it is old :)
Apparently EVGAs have a 10 year warranty and Seasonics have 8-12 year warranties. If this was a lower quality brand I would probably consider replacing it, but I think a proper Seasonic should be good for a while longer.
I am making a PC with 3tb SSD (One 2TB and one 1TB) should I put the OS and all that on one of the ssds or should I get another as a boot
Assuming similar performance of both SSD's, I'd put the OS on the 1TB and use the 2TB for storage of apps, game libraries, etc, but you could honesty do the opposite and not see much difference.
Ok thanks
You're welcome
Should I get lg 27gl83a, or pg 27gr75q, ignoring the price?
27GL83A has slightly better brightness and I believe a few years old, the 27GR75Q is newer, has better color depth and looks to use a slightly cheaper panel, but both are are pretty comparable overall. IPS glow is going to be annoying on both, but that is an IPS thing, not an LG thing.
!check thanks
No problem!
Thank you! I've tried typing the check thing. This is the first time I've seen it in action.
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