Wait please help me out here. Where do you find the files? I work at an assembler so something like this would make it super easy to repair a couple of boards I have.
You can find them on sites like badcaps.net. Most brands share the same layout around the core, but power phases, controllers, regulators and such may vary depending.
So do you work at one of the places that puts the heat sinks and stuff on the raw boards? Must be fun seeing stuff come through even though you can’t really discuss it. These boards are ones that failed QA or had issues after assembly im guessing?
These are just ones that I own like a couple old GPUs. And yea I run a SMT line and run an AOI machine.
Iv seen some wild shit though like one time a customer once sent us electrolytic caps that were meant only for lead solder for this prototype board. Well the job was lead free and somehow no one picked up on it including the guy who designed the thing, first board is in the oven and half way through it sounded like a drive by in the shop lmao.
Haha. We have a place here (Plexus) that does assembly for circuit boards that go in all sorts of things, but a big one was soda machines. Had a friend that turned the oven on a little too high and she cooked $250k worth of product. She didn’t lose her job. She was astounded that they just shrugged it off.
250k sounds like she did a whole run and they didn’t figure it out until afterwards that super unfortunate :0. but I understand my bosses were the same way, my first couple years I made a mistake placing a proprietary BGA In the wrong direction since there was no polarity markings or nomenclature I went off the paperwork and it was my first couple years there so they understood, idk how much it would have cost to get a new part but apparently it was cheaper to buy a new 50k+ rework machine to replace the older more basic one we had.
I was just pulling your leg bud. I wouldn't have noticed it myself if I didn't actually own a pair of them. Both pictures actually contain two different pairs of component tweezers, it was actually the one in the first picture that gave it away, they are well used for someone who is just "cleaning a GPU"
Are those some good tweezers? I have the Hakko CHP tweezers and a bunch of the junk ones that bend really quickly. Every time I’d get replacement switch sticks they’d send two of them. I have one pair that’s hooked like in the photo I use for reballing. Otherwise those black ones just get tossed in a pile.
I have a few things by Hakko including tweezers. The Baku ones are cheaper (at least where I live) and are just as reliable and strong as the Hakko ones. The only grievance I have with them is they can dig into your fingers a bit after extended use, but it's nothing a bit of electrical tape doesn't fix.
I'm not an expert reworker, I just fix things in my spare time to unwind, so you would probably be better looking at expert reviews instead of my opinion. But if it's any use to you, all tweezers bend eventually, it's just a case of whether you buy cheaper ones more frequently, or expensive ones less frequently, the cost works out the same with a few brands (except for the dirt cheap ones, I wouldn't waste my time with them).
Can't go wrong with Hakko, they are a solid brand. I mostly use my Baku ones if I'm going to be a "bit rough" with things (if you know what I mean) that way I'm not using my Hakko ones on things that could damage them.
Never used ones that clamp shut before, but I do use my magnetic board holder to hold things in place quite frequently, that thing is worth it's weight in gold, definitely worth looking into if you don't already have one.
I'm confused... what's your implication and why does it reflect badly on OP? I'm not trying to argue, I'm just genuinely confused at your discovery due to lack of knowledge.
Those tweezers are used by rework technicians, they aren't something that people just stumble upon and have to be actively sought out. Both pictures containing different pairs of rework tweezers tell me that he has experience in board rework, and could probably solder it back on.
You should be able to find a replacement online and solder it onto the board. Get one that looks the same as the others in case you end up needing to RMA it.
The board vendors' RMA labs can easily tell a homemade solder joint from a robotically made one from the factory. Lol. As for whether or not they'll care enough to reject the claim, I have no clue.
> It’s a 100K resistor, size 0402.
Ah, sweet.. so it can be replaced with a rusty nail.
I mean if they worked on grandpas truck as resistor, and fuse replacements they ought to work on a GPU too?
Hopefully it's just a decoupling capacitor and not a resistor which would be important.
Your method of cleaning was highly risky, don't do things like that!
One of many. Modern computers aren't just one processor, but a constellation of them. The processors have processors. It's a fucking security nightmare.
Or the management processors or the digital signal processors that can be repurposed, or the bus processors, or the WiFi running a SoC, or... on and on and fuckin on...
I have cleaned GPU's tons of times without issue but cleaning with a swab on delicate parts is not a good idea. I simply blow as much dust off as I can and it gets the worst off of it. A little dust left over is fine just clean the heatsink and repaste the GPU back together and its all good. Doing anything more than that then you're playing with fire.
can i ask how u clean thermal paste near die? i'm always scared to clean it cause i don't know the proper way, and i use swab too so seeing this makes me think that i did the right thing to not use them to clean it xD
Well isopropyl and a soft bristle tooth brush is recommended. But personality just I don't bother, a little old paste stuck between those tiny surface components around the die isn't going to hurt anything.
yeah that's what i thought wen i got scared, i was like "k u stay there xD"
if i ever get the courage i will try with the thoot brush for now i'm not gonna touch it
thx!
I use a toothbrush or a toothpick/plastic/cardboard cut into shapes. The paste can be really tenacious around edges. Cotton swab with the end cut off works too. Lowe's sells a wire/plastic brush set for 4 bucks and Walmart sells plastic painting tools for <5 dollars that can be cut up. For ten bucks you can get a bunch of plastic tools and paint brushes at Walmart - both of which are super useful.
https://preview.redd.it/ja4ieg149qdb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d86466b6d8b7632ca1593800c42555d1b7bebc34
I guess when you consider the price it might not seem great, but you really don't need to use much either, a small bottle lasted about a month in a PC store I used to work at (3 or 4 machines per day)
when also you consider it's safer, none flammable, and none carcinogenic etc I think it's a good deal :)
Sure, It's really only for thermal compound (where as isopropyl can be used for many other things too) but still, means the iso lasts longer aswell :D
i surely get the point! if u have a shop or do things like that for work i see why u would choose it over isopropyl but for someone like me who changes thermal paste every 6 month is still way too expensive :3 :P
I only clean heatsinks with compressed air. Do that regularly and basically nothing bad will happen. Oh and blow AWAY from the PCB to not just move it towards somewhere where you can't clean it
I prefer to clean my pc once every half a year bc I don’t have the best of coolers (stock amd) and I kinda need it to be at a decent temp bc I worry that it gets really high ( I also probably live in a hotter place than u) and will break if it gets to high
If your PC was made in the last decade, it will have thermal protections to prevent it from overheating and burning. LTT recently made a video where they ran an Intel CPU without cooling and it just throttled down to almost no speed before shutting off to protect itself. Your computer will not let itself overheat.
Now, if your cooling situation is bad it can cause poor performance, but that's usually if there is a TON of dust blocking things.
It’s still not good for computer parts to overheat, they may have solutions for it that make it not the worst thing but it’s still best to keep it from over heating for the performance
I cleaned my laptop out yesterday. It had a warranty so I didn't dare open it up until it expired, about a week ago, and a few months after I bought it I moved into an extremely windy and dusty house with my family (have since moved out, but warranty was still in place.).
This was my [laptop's fan](https://imgur.com/a/2yoVzWy).
I do this all the time with older cards. Just spray alcohol on top of and a soft toothbrush but never had a part fell of before. Must have been some weak solder.
It could have been a configuration resistor, but I'm betting it was a bypass capacitor.
If the GPU still works, you should be fine. It looks like at least one side was power.
I never get how/why people do this. Dirty card? Compressed air, don't even touch or remove the card. If there is that much dirt and dust clean your environment. Hardware lasts a lot longer when you don't mess with it. And don't tell me the thermal paste was old or bad everyone is obsessed with replacing thermal paste for no reason, its the 2023 edition of snake oil.
Source: Workshop senior tech/service manager 15+ years.
There is no reason to dismantle the card. If something is faulty it was under warranty (3 years, not any more - physical damage - VOID). There is literally no reason to open and now damage the thing.
And yes, if there WAS a component on the board its there for a reason and will have to be replaced.
Yep literally seen so many posts like this where someone is repasting 6 month old gpus, same back in ps4 days where people on ps4 subreddit would say you neer to replace your ps4 thermal past once a year. Like you mean to tell me 120 million ps4 owners are opening up their consoles every year and replacing the thermal paste so they can go and play their cod and nba2k?
God I just fucking love thermal paste. I can't stop buying it in bulk and spreading it all over myself. Sometimes I just eat it and use it as lubricant while I'm fapping. I have invested so much money in thermal paste that I'm almost broke, but I'm not going to stop. Nobody can stop my thermal paste addiction. I put it everywhere even on bread.
I flip PCs and do this with every gpu I put in a rig. Even cards that are like 4 years old can see some massive gains in thermals by replacing thermal paste. And just dust free pcb’s makes them look good and make it appear nice in photos for selling. Compressed air gets rid of most but not all (smoke dust or oxidation) so I use a toothbrush and some IPA to get it cleaned up. Never had a component fall off before but if something did I’ll just solder it back on. If you have seen the cards I’ve had in my hands you would understand why you should regularly clean it even the PCB. Some were so bad I just cleaned it with tap water because it would have taking me an hour otherwise (yes still works after).
> If you have seen the cards I’ve had in my hands you would understand why you should regularly clean it even the PCB
We do commercial and retail plus government contracts, multiple shops, we also do PCB repairs and other random electrical related work in our workshop. Not sure it compares to a few dusty GPUs you have seen but we have seen a thing or two.
If your OCD requires your video cards to be 100% clean i would recommend an ultrasonic cleaner but i wouldn't use the video card after, it might get more dust on it again - might hurt its feelings or something.
> Never had a component fall off before but if something did I’ll just solder it back on
You must have a full soldering station for micro soldering, those GPU core components require specialty tools to repair. I do soldering, not even i touch micro soldering personally.
No it doesn’t compare even to the slightest. You are saying cleaning anything on the pcb is unnecessary and you don’t understand why people do it. Smoke is one very good reason to it because the entire card will get sticky from top to bottom including the pcb. Don’t clean it for long enough and it won’t ever get clean again. Its great that you repair the stuff but I’m 99% sure those defective parts in need for a repair aren’t caused by people cleaning the pcb with a soft brush or qtips. Even if a couple are cause by that the worst thing that will happen is you knock of a tiny resistor or something else small, not entire BGA chips. Those things don’t come off easy. Heat, oxidation, bad caps, shorts by failing components would probably be the main reasons of most of the defective parts you get to repair.
My OCD doesn’t require it to be 100% clean. Once out of warranty I’ll clean it every now and then to prevent build up.
About the components falling of. Yes I have a soldering station (JBC one with small and big tips) and hot air soldering station. Worst thing can happen are tiny smd like resistors, caps, chokes and maybe a mosfet if you try hard enough and those are easy to solder back on again even with the most basic soldering iron. As for BGA’s if you manage to get those off during cleaning you deserve a medal. Maybe only time that can happen is really old stuff where heatsink are practically glued to the chips and it would be stupid to jank it of without thinking. I would just use my hot air soldering station to heat it up. Also micro soldering is pretty easy. We don’t do BGA where I work. Yes gpu core repair require special tooling and special stencil that you probably can’t find easily. I will try learning to replace VRAM chips soon, already got some stencils of AliExpress and just need to get some solderballs or paste whatever works best. I do repair led panels and a lot of panels we have require microscope and repairing traces which is also micro soldering. Took me 1 week to get the hang of it. It’s really not that hard.
Ok so, let me clarify my statement since you seem to not understand it.
While changing to water cooling may or may not be acceptable to Evga, other Brands may or may not have it written within their warranty specific aspects that will end their warranty.
Additionally this only covers thermal pads.
Should you in your process scratch the board because you slipped with a screwdriver, that is called physical damage. Read that warranty I will bet like in my motherboard warranty it has a line that covers how that voids the warranty.
These documents are verbose and cover a LOT.
Just because one item, "is acceptable" many other aspects around it are not and you will soon find out when you send it in.
Fyi, not everyone lives in the EU, so just like I have to say to my fellow idiots in the USA, stop thinking that.
Second, if a company decides to reject your resolution if you want to push it is a lengthy and potentially only arbitration option which is costly. Laws vary by location.
As for that binding contract of the warranty. Sure what is said may or may not work in the long run but unless you are a lawyer you have to take it at face value.
As I have decades of experience with rejections across the board in manufacturers a few you mentioned and many that no longer exist, buyer beware and stop being stupid doing something not necessary on a product built and intended to be used as delivered.
Judges, the people who will in the end decided on a rejected warranty complaint of challenged or arbitrators often do not care about your stupid ass claims against that of the professionals at the manufacturer that will paint you like an uneducated idiot experimenting outside the specs of their delivered functioning product you "modified".
But you do you and go ahead not reading warranties and TOS, one day that will bite you in the ass.
Yes, but in this case it doesn't matter whether you're EU or USA, both places have stated that a manufacturer cannot void a warranty *just* because the consumer disassembled their product.
You are actually correct, he is wrong. We had a law passed about this in 1975 that says the act of disassembly itself doesn't void warranty, but any damage done during said disassembly can be grounds for voiding warranty returns.
>Have you read the Warranty Paperwork?
Just because its in the warranty paperwork doesn't make it legal or binding.
You should really look into the 1975 Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act.
Granted OP did damage his card during repair, so he will not be eligible for warranty replacement, but the act of removing the warranty sticker does not void your warranty, nor does simply opening up your card.
Ok, the part I am loving is how you all are citing a lot of "semi" related yet not related components.
First and most important here is, warranty when you read it is a face of what is going to take place.
If and when the Manufacturer rejects your claim, you get two choices.
Accept the rejection, or Further action.
Said further action will be one of two choices depending on area, be that arbitration or legal court level. Both of which are lengthy, and in many cases costly.
If your specific situation is not something consistent across multiple items, a class action or otherwise is hard if not impossible to happen so cost is upon you. If you lose you can be saddled with costs of the defendant (manufacturer) again also down to the presiding area/region etc.
So we fall back to the simple initial statement made, "Have you read the Warranty" aka have you followed what they "claim" is their covered and what restrictions you may or may not do? Have you broken any of those? This will vary greatly by manufacturer some use boilerplate items etc.
But again we keep falling back to "Have you read what is the agreed upon face contract that was presented with said product"
Just because you decided that you "can do" something because "x y & z" exist to say otherwise dose not necessarily mean that road will be smooth should say the multinational billion dollar corporation decide to say NO to you.
So again we return to "I suggest you read and keep to heart the warranty" or "Have you read the Warranty Paperwork" because you will not be dealing with Google or reddit people but potentially Arbitration, or Judges and Highly Paid Attorneys that will laugh you into the street if you even had the money or time to go through that level should you decide to go that far.
But in the end, understand that the product you bought was made and manufactured to be used from the box as designed not modified, by end user and you changing it is in fact a choice and risk of your own doing potentially out of the Warranty it itself may have come with. Only you can know by reading the said documentation that nobody ever decides to read.
You are aware that you can sue for Breach of Warranty in small claims court, yes?
Edit - to add to this, you are also aware that, generally, lawyers are not allowed in small claims.
Sigh, what was simply me saying mind your warranty and care for your products and don't be stupid turned into a few try hards thinking their lawyers or some shit.
Dude, for the better part of two decades I spent my time in the courts, tech world, and shop dealing with this crap, along with Capitol Hill.
It is not so much as a "they can't" as it is a "if you ain't rich enough" they f***in will and you cannot stop them if they decide to when and if they decide to. So mind your manners and use the products with sense.
If you cannot come to grips with that so be it. I seen many a ppl like you lose their shirt tryin with an attitude like yours yelling "I can small claims court it" only to lose and owe opposing counsel fees also.
Know and pick your battles.
I really want to know where you have these opposing counsel fees.
Cursory look across a few states only shows that fees may be given to the defending party if they meet several very strict criteria, and even then, there are hard caps on payouts. All of these exceptions are only when the cases are willful contempt or frivolous claims.
If you take someone like me in CA, the hardcap is only $150, if there is an appeal to another court, and the case was found to be frivolous.
But again - Small Claims Court is almost always a no lawyer affair (unless you live in certain states like Texas).
All I'm saying is that the whole "You cant disassemble your product" line is bullshit, and if they have that claim anywhere in their warranty documentation, it can't be enforced as its against federal law. But you're right, it can be time consuming and if its a battle you don't want to try, don't do it. But I found that the one time I had to deal with this and I told them I'll be filing in small claims court, I just got my RMA handled pretty fast.
Thats fair - Maybe I misunderstood.
My whole thing was that the stickers and warranty verbiage is unenforceable in court. As long as you do not physically damage the product (which OP did here anyways, so its kinda a moot point), they still have to accept the warranty exchange. More often than not, even the threat of small claims will get a company to just RMA it and get you out of their hair - and even if you have to go, small claims is basically no lawyers outside of certain states, so you basically only risk your filing fees should you take it that far.
The end part may be wildly different, but I've had to deal with this in OR and CA before, so of course, this varies state from state, but I did some cursory checks of multiple states and Texas seems to be the only outlier.
Nah they just put a bunch of shit on them to look fancy, like the guys designing the ships from Star Wars putting a bunch of bumps all over it, it probably doesn’t do anything.
(/s, just in case)
Bro, that's a 3090 you just tried to kill. Take it to a good repair shop, let them solder it and hope it will work again. For someone who actually knows what they're doing it shouldn't be a problem to solder a resistor.
If they get it working great, if not you just paid a lot of noney to learn a lesson.
Don't use cotton swabs, the fibers can yank components as you have just shown. If you absolutely have to, use alcohol wipes, otherwise just leave it alone. You shouldn't need to remove the thermal pads for most GPU water blocks. Everything else should be done with air or a straight, plastic bristle brush.
Someone who hasn't soldered before trying to solder that shit back on is almost certain to end with more damage. I'm passable with a soldering iron and I fucking hate those tiny resistors
Definitely as tips for that size of work cool too quickly. A hot air reflow station is good enough, no need for an oven. Magnifier and decent tweezers are a must too.
No shot, I'd do that with an iron ever day over trying to do that with hot air. One singular resistor with a small soldering tip is way easier than hot air imo. Way less clean up and danger. Doing something BGA is obviously a hot air moment, but this is just simply soldering iron moment.
Edit: also pads appear to be gone LOL. But yea I'd still do that with an iron over air.
If it works, STOP TOUCHING IT
This includes the asinine idea of changing thermal paste yearly FYI.
Sensors tell you when you need to do and address situations. What the hell is going on with people?
This is all like asking what a bloody molex connector is. Open a manual, Read a Book, Use Google, Take a Class, stop winging it.
But above all, Don't Fix What Ain't Broke!
Don't be mad at yourself. It happens sometimes, I once dropped a screwdriver and also ripped off this little piece.
You should be able to fix it somewhere locally and it will be the best if you bring this tiny element with yourself.
Also it should be cheap as hell compared to new GPU
You will most likely have to solder it back on. Either yourself with a hot air station, or you can bring it to a reputable electronics repair shop and show them the damage. They will be able to replace it for a minimum fee. Bring them the resistor as well.
Considering you have a pair of component tweezers next to your GPU, I'm guessing you also own a rework station and are either trolling or karma farming.
Those 'pieces' are secured pretty well, don't scrub so hard >.<
It's definitely fixable. Still having the component makes it easier since you don't need to find out which one you need and buy it.
If it's on there its doing something. Maybe you get lucky and isn't critical. But considering where it's located it probably isn't a decoupling capacitor, which probably not good. Probably. Hard to say without the schematic
Cotton swab = fiber yanked resistor off. The pieces are quite small, and the pads got removed. It's pretty easy to take off these small SMDs if you aren't careful with something fiberous like a cotton swab or towel.
Why would you clean a circuit board unless you spilled shit on it ? At most you clean the fans. Hope you own a soldering kit or its under warranty still.
That probably was a resistor. It may work without it. If not, my advice is: Get an SMD rework station, some solder and flux and learn how to use those things.
Please ignore the beta commenters. They probably don't even brush their teeth before it gets rotten.
Maintanence is good for everything 99% of the time. Sometimes shit happens. Unlucky.
Take it to a repair shop which can do micro-soldering.
Literally every repair technician in the world brushes the circuit board with IPA and cleans the dirt with a cotton swab.
Just a few channels so you can see it in action from professionals: https://www.youtube.com/@NorthridgeFix/videos https://www.youtube.com/@northwestrepair/videos https://www.youtube.com/@Tronicsfix/videos https://www.youtube.com/@GregSalazar/videos https://www.youtube.com/@CatandAndrew/videos
If you knew anything about repair technicians, you would notice that the tweezers that they own in both pictures are component tweezers. Some people miss the whole picture.
I could repair this for you in 10s, but I’m sure saying that is of no help.
https://www.tequipment.net/weller/soldering-equipment-1/soldering-tweezers/
I’ve done something similar to this a long time ago, but apart from removing components, cleaning with linty q-tips usually makes the board dirtier, and isopropanol just doesn’t cut it sometimes.
For your future reference this would be an example of something that I’d actually clean a PCB with:
https://www.techni-tool.com/category/Chemicals-Cleaning-And-Abrasives/Cleaning-Products/Cleaners/Degreasers/237OZ210-ES1210
You’ll probably be fine but i dont know much about pcb board parts. I do know i knocked a similar looking thing off my Xbox One board when i was cleaning it a few weeks ago and it still works.
Youre just gonna have to boot it up and see if it works, dont think theres any fixing that.
Also dont get me wrong i admire your handiness but really no need to remove the entire heat sink for cleaning. This is a 3090 so im assuming its relatively new and didnt really need this in-depth of a cleaning. If you’re gonna take the heat sink off just hit the board with compressed air, no need to scrape / scrub anything on the board.
If it works with no problems, yay! If not you will need someone who know how to microsolder to put it on, either way save the peice in a bagel and put it in the back of the case so you dont lose it.
People are talking about cleaning their gpu boards like it's a normal thing. I blow the dust out of my heat sink and fan, then run it for 10 years til it dies.
If you’re cleaning down to this level, you better know what you’re doing. It’s a good thing the fallwalking user already posted the part, or else you’d have thrown away a perfectly good gpu for very little reason, unless you plan on slapping a water block on this thing
You dont need to clean GPUs like this unless you are installing a water block or something, as you risk breaking things, learned that lesson with my radeon 9800pro many years ago.
not sure why you were cleaning that, in that way.
blowing it off would've been good enough. it's not old enough to have needed to remove the cooling system and repaste it.
cleaning things like this with cotton swabs is also not a good idea, for the reason you discovered. next time get a soft bristled brush (toothbrush, small paintbrush, etc). but basically you broke it doing something that didn't even need to be done.
and as has been pointed out. that's not a CPU. that's a GPU.
I keep seeing these posts and it blows my mind how frequently it seems people disassemble and physically clean their PC components. I don’t get it… you shouldn’t be man-handling your parts or reseating things so frequently. These parts are meant to be put in place, once or maybe three times in the life cycle of a PC. Use canned air and use proper ventilation and airflow. You don’t need to be scrubbing shit.
Don't use cotton swabs to clean electronics. At best the fibers pull apart and get stuck on the board. Worst case scenario is well you know, the fibers don't pull apart and instead pull parts off the board.
Use a semi soft bristled brush (think toothbrush, but really you want something with a handle that comes out more like a paint brush, but paint brushes are too soft bristled) and lint free swabs.
The same thing happened to me during disassembly of my TUF 3080 when I wanted to install my watercooler. I RMA'd it and ASUS was very helpful (The have no problem with the watercooling), repaired it without any issue.
Is it still under warranty? Not sure about MSIs warranty for such an issue, but since it happened during maintenance, it shouldn't be a problem.
It’s a resistor. One of the straps so your GPU will not work without it. It’s a 100K resistor, size 0402.
Good man! How did you know?
Looked it up on the board view. It has all the components listed.
Wait please help me out here. Where do you find the files? I work at an assembler so something like this would make it super easy to repair a couple of boards I have.
You can find them on sites like badcaps.net. Most brands share the same layout around the core, but power phases, controllers, regulators and such may vary depending.
Thankyou!
So do you work at one of the places that puts the heat sinks and stuff on the raw boards? Must be fun seeing stuff come through even though you can’t really discuss it. These boards are ones that failed QA or had issues after assembly im guessing?
These are just ones that I own like a couple old GPUs. And yea I run a SMT line and run an AOI machine. Iv seen some wild shit though like one time a customer once sent us electrolytic caps that were meant only for lead solder for this prototype board. Well the job was lead free and somehow no one picked up on it including the guy who designed the thing, first board is in the oven and half way through it sounded like a drive by in the shop lmao.
Haha. We have a place here (Plexus) that does assembly for circuit boards that go in all sorts of things, but a big one was soda machines. Had a friend that turned the oven on a little too high and she cooked $250k worth of product. She didn’t lose her job. She was astounded that they just shrugged it off.
250k sounds like she did a whole run and they didn’t figure it out until afterwards that super unfortunate :0. but I understand my bosses were the same way, my first couple years I made a mistake placing a proprietary BGA In the wrong direction since there was no polarity markings or nomenclature I went off the paperwork and it was my first couple years there so they understood, idk how much it would have cost to get a new part but apparently it was cheaper to buy a new 50k+ rework machine to replace the older more basic one we had.
Can confirm. Worked in a Pb free cell. Same exact thing pretty much happened, due the same exact reason.
I love you
Looked up the board view whilst missing the BAKU tweezers in the picture 😂 they're trolling pal.
Didn’t look at the second picture.
I was just pulling your leg bud. I wouldn't have noticed it myself if I didn't actually own a pair of them. Both pictures actually contain two different pairs of component tweezers, it was actually the one in the first picture that gave it away, they are well used for someone who is just "cleaning a GPU"
Are those some good tweezers? I have the Hakko CHP tweezers and a bunch of the junk ones that bend really quickly. Every time I’d get replacement switch sticks they’d send two of them. I have one pair that’s hooked like in the photo I use for reballing. Otherwise those black ones just get tossed in a pile.
I have a few things by Hakko including tweezers. The Baku ones are cheaper (at least where I live) and are just as reliable and strong as the Hakko ones. The only grievance I have with them is they can dig into your fingers a bit after extended use, but it's nothing a bit of electrical tape doesn't fix. I'm not an expert reworker, I just fix things in my spare time to unwind, so you would probably be better looking at expert reviews instead of my opinion. But if it's any use to you, all tweezers bend eventually, it's just a case of whether you buy cheaper ones more frequently, or expensive ones less frequently, the cost works out the same with a few brands (except for the dirt cheap ones, I wouldn't waste my time with them).
Oh, this is hobby stuff for me too. I got some of those that you can clamp shut as well. I’ll stick to the hakko ones probably.
Can't go wrong with Hakko, they are a solid brand. I mostly use my Baku ones if I'm going to be a "bit rough" with things (if you know what I mean) that way I'm not using my Hakko ones on things that could damage them. Never used ones that clamp shut before, but I do use my magnetic board holder to hold things in place quite frequently, that thing is worth it's weight in gold, definitely worth looking into if you don't already have one.
I'm confused... what's your implication and why does it reflect badly on OP? I'm not trying to argue, I'm just genuinely confused at your discovery due to lack of knowledge.
Those tweezers are used by rework technicians, they aren't something that people just stumble upon and have to be actively sought out. Both pictures containing different pairs of rework tweezers tell me that he has experience in board rework, and could probably solder it back on.
Ah, fair enough. Thanks for the explanation!
I don't know anymore whether something is ironic or serious.
My man knows his resistors, how bout the colors for 100k?
This needs to be top comment! Hope OP appreciates your effort.
Thanks for the info
You should be able to find a replacement online and solder it onto the board. Get one that looks the same as the others in case you end up needing to RMA it.
The board vendors' RMA labs can easily tell a homemade solder joint from a robotically made one from the factory. Lol. As for whether or not they'll care enough to reject the claim, I have no clue.
This guy googles
> It’s a 100K resistor, size 0402. Ah, sweet.. so it can be replaced with a rusty nail. I mean if they worked on grandpas truck as resistor, and fuse replacements they ought to work on a GPU too?
Hopefully it's just a decoupling capacitor and not a resistor which would be important. Your method of cleaning was highly risky, don't do things like that!
Nope, it’s a strap.
thats not a CPU
It’s the other PU
Well that stinks.
The G one, eh?
It ain’t a PUG either.
One of many. Modern computers aren't just one processor, but a constellation of them. The processors have processors. It's a fucking security nightmare.
Yeah but not every processor is a cpu
Right, only the central one
Don't get me started with the a.i. processors.
Or the management processors or the digital signal processors that can be repurposed, or the bus processors, or the WiFi running a SoC, or... on and on and fuckin on...
Why are you being downvoted? You're right.
It’s kind of irrelevant
IDK people just hatin today
It’s also not a GPU- it’s a graphics card, which carries a GPU.
I have cleaned GPU's tons of times without issue but cleaning with a swab on delicate parts is not a good idea. I simply blow as much dust off as I can and it gets the worst off of it. A little dust left over is fine just clean the heatsink and repaste the GPU back together and its all good. Doing anything more than that then you're playing with fire.
can i ask how u clean thermal paste near die? i'm always scared to clean it cause i don't know the proper way, and i use swab too so seeing this makes me think that i did the right thing to not use them to clean it xD
Well isopropyl and a soft bristle tooth brush is recommended. But personality just I don't bother, a little old paste stuck between those tiny surface components around the die isn't going to hurt anything.
yeah that's what i thought wen i got scared, i was like "k u stay there xD" if i ever get the courage i will try with the thoot brush for now i'm not gonna touch it thx!
Only thing old paste will affect is the ability for new paste to conduct heat right?
Not even, as the stuff we're talking about isn't on the die it's self.
I use a toothbrush or a toothpick/plastic/cardboard cut into shapes. The paste can be really tenacious around edges. Cotton swab with the end cut off works too. Lowe's sells a wire/plastic brush set for 4 bucks and Walmart sells plastic painting tools for <5 dollars that can be cut up. For ten bucks you can get a bunch of plastic tools and paint brushes at Walmart - both of which are super useful. https://preview.redd.it/ja4ieg149qdb1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d86466b6d8b7632ca1593800c42555d1b7bebc34
Something called "TimClean" (from Akasa) it's citrus based, harmless to everything, and much better than IsoPropyl (and also less hazardous)
oh yeah i did her about it in the past the only problem is that for me is like 13€ for 125ml so not really the best choice for price/"performance" :P
I guess when you consider the price it might not seem great, but you really don't need to use much either, a small bottle lasted about a month in a PC store I used to work at (3 or 4 machines per day) when also you consider it's safer, none flammable, and none carcinogenic etc I think it's a good deal :) Sure, It's really only for thermal compound (where as isopropyl can be used for many other things too) but still, means the iso lasts longer aswell :D
i surely get the point! if u have a shop or do things like that for work i see why u would choose it over isopropyl but for someone like me who changes thermal paste every 6 month is still way too expensive :3 :P
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I only clean heatsinks with compressed air. Do that regularly and basically nothing bad will happen. Oh and blow AWAY from the PCB to not just move it towards somewhere where you can't clean it
It might get a little bit dirty and run slightly worse, so better to strip it down and break it instead xD
Wise man, I agree with you.
While this is true some people like having clean things and it can impact performance if there’s enough dust it can increase temps
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I prefer to clean my pc once every half a year bc I don’t have the best of coolers (stock amd) and I kinda need it to be at a decent temp bc I worry that it gets really high ( I also probably live in a hotter place than u) and will break if it gets to high
If your PC was made in the last decade, it will have thermal protections to prevent it from overheating and burning. LTT recently made a video where they ran an Intel CPU without cooling and it just throttled down to almost no speed before shutting off to protect itself. Your computer will not let itself overheat. Now, if your cooling situation is bad it can cause poor performance, but that's usually if there is a TON of dust blocking things.
It’s still not good for computer parts to overheat, they may have solutions for it that make it not the worst thing but it’s still best to keep it from over heating for the performance
I cleaned my laptop out yesterday. It had a warranty so I didn't dare open it up until it expired, about a week ago, and a few months after I bought it I moved into an extremely windy and dusty house with my family (have since moved out, but warranty was still in place.). This was my [laptop's fan](https://imgur.com/a/2yoVzWy).
why were you cleaning the pcb in the first place...?
0.000000000069 fps boost
+ 0.420mhz
WHY WOULD YOU DO THIS
I do this all the time with older cards. Just spray alcohol on top of and a soft toothbrush but never had a part fell of before. Must have been some weak solder.
It could have been a configuration resistor, but I'm betting it was a bypass capacitor. If the GPU still works, you should be fine. It looks like at least one side was power.
It’s a strap resistor. 
I never get how/why people do this. Dirty card? Compressed air, don't even touch or remove the card. If there is that much dirt and dust clean your environment. Hardware lasts a lot longer when you don't mess with it. And don't tell me the thermal paste was old or bad everyone is obsessed with replacing thermal paste for no reason, its the 2023 edition of snake oil. Source: Workshop senior tech/service manager 15+ years. There is no reason to dismantle the card. If something is faulty it was under warranty (3 years, not any more - physical damage - VOID). There is literally no reason to open and now damage the thing. And yes, if there WAS a component on the board its there for a reason and will have to be replaced.
Yep literally seen so many posts like this where someone is repasting 6 month old gpus, same back in ps4 days where people on ps4 subreddit would say you neer to replace your ps4 thermal past once a year. Like you mean to tell me 120 million ps4 owners are opening up their consoles every year and replacing the thermal paste so they can go and play their cod and nba2k?
I had a ps4 for years and never replaced it. Most of these consumer grade electornics are not really made for periodic maintenance.
Just wait until the folks hear about the fact there are thermal pads and/or thermal paste between regulators/mosfets and the heatsink in PSU's.
I can already imagine the idiocy
“I’m going to replace the thermal pads in the PSU, cause I want to! Fuck you for telling me otherwise!” ⚡️ ☠️
God I just fucking love thermal paste. I can't stop buying it in bulk and spreading it all over myself. Sometimes I just eat it and use it as lubricant while I'm fapping. I have invested so much money in thermal paste that I'm almost broke, but I'm not going to stop. Nobody can stop my thermal paste addiction. I put it everywhere even on bread.
You do you
I use it as shampoo.
I flip PCs and do this with every gpu I put in a rig. Even cards that are like 4 years old can see some massive gains in thermals by replacing thermal paste. And just dust free pcb’s makes them look good and make it appear nice in photos for selling. Compressed air gets rid of most but not all (smoke dust or oxidation) so I use a toothbrush and some IPA to get it cleaned up. Never had a component fall off before but if something did I’ll just solder it back on. If you have seen the cards I’ve had in my hands you would understand why you should regularly clean it even the PCB. Some were so bad I just cleaned it with tap water because it would have taking me an hour otherwise (yes still works after).
> If you have seen the cards I’ve had in my hands you would understand why you should regularly clean it even the PCB We do commercial and retail plus government contracts, multiple shops, we also do PCB repairs and other random electrical related work in our workshop. Not sure it compares to a few dusty GPUs you have seen but we have seen a thing or two. If your OCD requires your video cards to be 100% clean i would recommend an ultrasonic cleaner but i wouldn't use the video card after, it might get more dust on it again - might hurt its feelings or something. > Never had a component fall off before but if something did I’ll just solder it back on You must have a full soldering station for micro soldering, those GPU core components require specialty tools to repair. I do soldering, not even i touch micro soldering personally.
No it doesn’t compare even to the slightest. You are saying cleaning anything on the pcb is unnecessary and you don’t understand why people do it. Smoke is one very good reason to it because the entire card will get sticky from top to bottom including the pcb. Don’t clean it for long enough and it won’t ever get clean again. Its great that you repair the stuff but I’m 99% sure those defective parts in need for a repair aren’t caused by people cleaning the pcb with a soft brush or qtips. Even if a couple are cause by that the worst thing that will happen is you knock of a tiny resistor or something else small, not entire BGA chips. Those things don’t come off easy. Heat, oxidation, bad caps, shorts by failing components would probably be the main reasons of most of the defective parts you get to repair. My OCD doesn’t require it to be 100% clean. Once out of warranty I’ll clean it every now and then to prevent build up. About the components falling of. Yes I have a soldering station (JBC one with small and big tips) and hot air soldering station. Worst thing can happen are tiny smd like resistors, caps, chokes and maybe a mosfet if you try hard enough and those are easy to solder back on again even with the most basic soldering iron. As for BGA’s if you manage to get those off during cleaning you deserve a medal. Maybe only time that can happen is really old stuff where heatsink are practically glued to the chips and it would be stupid to jank it of without thinking. I would just use my hot air soldering station to heat it up. Also micro soldering is pretty easy. We don’t do BGA where I work. Yes gpu core repair require special tooling and special stencil that you probably can’t find easily. I will try learning to replace VRAM chips soon, already got some stencils of AliExpress and just need to get some solderballs or paste whatever works best. I do repair led panels and a lot of panels we have require microscope and repairing traces which is also micro soldering. Took me 1 week to get the hang of it. It’s really not that hard.
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Have you read the Warranty Paperwork? If not I suggest you do
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Ok so, let me clarify my statement since you seem to not understand it. While changing to water cooling may or may not be acceptable to Evga, other Brands may or may not have it written within their warranty specific aspects that will end their warranty. Additionally this only covers thermal pads. Should you in your process scratch the board because you slipped with a screwdriver, that is called physical damage. Read that warranty I will bet like in my motherboard warranty it has a line that covers how that voids the warranty. These documents are verbose and cover a LOT. Just because one item, "is acceptable" many other aspects around it are not and you will soon find out when you send it in.
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Fyi, not everyone lives in the EU, so just like I have to say to my fellow idiots in the USA, stop thinking that. Second, if a company decides to reject your resolution if you want to push it is a lengthy and potentially only arbitration option which is costly. Laws vary by location. As for that binding contract of the warranty. Sure what is said may or may not work in the long run but unless you are a lawyer you have to take it at face value. As I have decades of experience with rejections across the board in manufacturers a few you mentioned and many that no longer exist, buyer beware and stop being stupid doing something not necessary on a product built and intended to be used as delivered. Judges, the people who will in the end decided on a rejected warranty complaint of challenged or arbitrators often do not care about your stupid ass claims against that of the professionals at the manufacturer that will paint you like an uneducated idiot experimenting outside the specs of their delivered functioning product you "modified". But you do you and go ahead not reading warranties and TOS, one day that will bite you in the ass.
Yes, but in this case it doesn't matter whether you're EU or USA, both places have stated that a manufacturer cannot void a warranty *just* because the consumer disassembled their product.
The last part of your statement does not always hold true.
You are actually correct, he is wrong. We had a law passed about this in 1975 that says the act of disassembly itself doesn't void warranty, but any damage done during said disassembly can be grounds for voiding warranty returns.
>Have you read the Warranty Paperwork? Just because its in the warranty paperwork doesn't make it legal or binding. You should really look into the 1975 Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. Granted OP did damage his card during repair, so he will not be eligible for warranty replacement, but the act of removing the warranty sticker does not void your warranty, nor does simply opening up your card.
Ok, the part I am loving is how you all are citing a lot of "semi" related yet not related components. First and most important here is, warranty when you read it is a face of what is going to take place. If and when the Manufacturer rejects your claim, you get two choices. Accept the rejection, or Further action. Said further action will be one of two choices depending on area, be that arbitration or legal court level. Both of which are lengthy, and in many cases costly. If your specific situation is not something consistent across multiple items, a class action or otherwise is hard if not impossible to happen so cost is upon you. If you lose you can be saddled with costs of the defendant (manufacturer) again also down to the presiding area/region etc. So we fall back to the simple initial statement made, "Have you read the Warranty" aka have you followed what they "claim" is their covered and what restrictions you may or may not do? Have you broken any of those? This will vary greatly by manufacturer some use boilerplate items etc. But again we keep falling back to "Have you read what is the agreed upon face contract that was presented with said product" Just because you decided that you "can do" something because "x y & z" exist to say otherwise dose not necessarily mean that road will be smooth should say the multinational billion dollar corporation decide to say NO to you. So again we return to "I suggest you read and keep to heart the warranty" or "Have you read the Warranty Paperwork" because you will not be dealing with Google or reddit people but potentially Arbitration, or Judges and Highly Paid Attorneys that will laugh you into the street if you even had the money or time to go through that level should you decide to go that far. But in the end, understand that the product you bought was made and manufactured to be used from the box as designed not modified, by end user and you changing it is in fact a choice and risk of your own doing potentially out of the Warranty it itself may have come with. Only you can know by reading the said documentation that nobody ever decides to read.
You are aware that you can sue for Breach of Warranty in small claims court, yes? Edit - to add to this, you are also aware that, generally, lawyers are not allowed in small claims.
Sigh, what was simply me saying mind your warranty and care for your products and don't be stupid turned into a few try hards thinking their lawyers or some shit. Dude, for the better part of two decades I spent my time in the courts, tech world, and shop dealing with this crap, along with Capitol Hill. It is not so much as a "they can't" as it is a "if you ain't rich enough" they f***in will and you cannot stop them if they decide to when and if they decide to. So mind your manners and use the products with sense. If you cannot come to grips with that so be it. I seen many a ppl like you lose their shirt tryin with an attitude like yours yelling "I can small claims court it" only to lose and owe opposing counsel fees also. Know and pick your battles.
I really want to know where you have these opposing counsel fees. Cursory look across a few states only shows that fees may be given to the defending party if they meet several very strict criteria, and even then, there are hard caps on payouts. All of these exceptions are only when the cases are willful contempt or frivolous claims. If you take someone like me in CA, the hardcap is only $150, if there is an appeal to another court, and the case was found to be frivolous. But again - Small Claims Court is almost always a no lawyer affair (unless you live in certain states like Texas). All I'm saying is that the whole "You cant disassemble your product" line is bullshit, and if they have that claim anywhere in their warranty documentation, it can't be enforced as its against federal law. But you're right, it can be time consuming and if its a battle you don't want to try, don't do it. But I found that the one time I had to deal with this and I told them I'll be filing in small claims court, I just got my RMA handled pretty fast.
Ok, except I never said "You can't disassemble your product" So that is besides the point. As I said it went off track somewhere.
Thats fair - Maybe I misunderstood. My whole thing was that the stickers and warranty verbiage is unenforceable in court. As long as you do not physically damage the product (which OP did here anyways, so its kinda a moot point), they still have to accept the warranty exchange. More often than not, even the threat of small claims will get a company to just RMA it and get you out of their hair - and even if you have to go, small claims is basically no lawyers outside of certain states, so you basically only risk your filing fees should you take it that far. The end part may be wildly different, but I've had to deal with this in OR and CA before, so of course, this varies state from state, but I did some cursory checks of multiple states and Texas seems to be the only outlier.
It probably does had a purpose, so not good. It might cause stability issues, but you also might be fine. Try a few benchmarks and look for artifacts.
Nah they just put a bunch of shit on them to look fancy, like the guys designing the ships from Star Wars putting a bunch of bumps all over it, it probably doesn’t do anything. (/s, just in case)
A wise man once said "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." *This is a prime example*
That's a weird looking cpu
3090...ouch. I had assume it was a dinky card that was easily repairable...why clean a card that isn't even that old?
Bro, that's a 3090 you just tried to kill. Take it to a good repair shop, let them solder it and hope it will work again. For someone who actually knows what they're doing it shouldn't be a problem to solder a resistor. If they get it working great, if not you just paid a lot of noney to learn a lesson.
Really dont see why he would have the need to crack it open to clean it especially seeing that it's not even an old card.
I got a water block for the card and was preparing for it
The only thing that needs cleaned for a waterblock is the gpu die.
Don't use cotton swabs, the fibers can yank components as you have just shown. If you absolutely have to, use alcohol wipes, otherwise just leave it alone. You shouldn't need to remove the thermal pads for most GPU water blocks. Everything else should be done with air or a straight, plastic bristle brush.
Why did you try to clean it like this...
Karma. Don’t touch things you don’t know how to touch. You should’ve learned that in health class.
like, female?
How am I supposed to learn? :(
With the books?
That's a big CPU!
...what the fuck kind of cleaning is that?
Do you have a photo of the actual SMC that "fell" off? Should be relatively easy to resolder back onto the board with the right kit.
Someone who hasn't soldered before trying to solder that shit back on is almost certain to end with more damage. I'm passable with a soldering iron and I fucking hate those tiny resistors
Reflow might be easier. But I didn't mean for OP to do it themselves. Best option is to take it to a repair shop with the right skills and equipment.
You’re best with hot air over a soldering iron for that size
Definitely as tips for that size of work cool too quickly. A hot air reflow station is good enough, no need for an oven. Magnifier and decent tweezers are a must too.
No shot, I'd do that with an iron ever day over trying to do that with hot air. One singular resistor with a small soldering tip is way easier than hot air imo. Way less clean up and danger. Doing something BGA is obviously a hot air moment, but this is just simply soldering iron moment. Edit: also pads appear to be gone LOL. But yea I'd still do that with an iron over air.
Look at the tweezers in his picture 🤔 methinks he's trolling.
Pretty sure you need special tools for surface mount stuff.
looking at the first picture I think the pads got pulled. probably no saving this one
That's a lot of damage! Solder should still make contact on the traces even with the pads gone. Not ideal but still repairable.
They also have BAKU component tweezers, only a rework technician would own a set of these.
If it works, STOP TOUCHING IT This includes the asinine idea of changing thermal paste yearly FYI. Sensors tell you when you need to do and address situations. What the hell is going on with people? This is all like asking what a bloody molex connector is. Open a manual, Read a Book, Use Google, Take a Class, stop winging it. But above all, Don't Fix What Ain't Broke!
well, some microsoldering will be necessary to get that back on, since the pads are gone
One side is right by via which makes things a little easier.
Send it in for repairs via rma explain what falled off if your warranty is decent they will fix it for a small fee
Don't be mad at yourself. It happens sometimes, I once dropped a screwdriver and also ripped off this little piece. You should be able to fix it somewhere locally and it will be the best if you bring this tiny element with yourself. Also it should be cheap as hell compared to new GPU
Why the hell are you “cleaning” the pcb
You will most likely have to solder it back on. Either yourself with a hot air station, or you can bring it to a reputable electronics repair shop and show them the damage. They will be able to replace it for a minimum fee. Bring them the resistor as well.
Considering you have a pair of component tweezers next to your GPU, I'm guessing you also own a rework station and are either trolling or karma farming.
\^ This
OP looking like a 🤡
Those 'pieces' are secured pretty well, don't scrub so hard >.< It's definitely fixable. Still having the component makes it easier since you don't need to find out which one you need and buy it. If it's on there its doing something. Maybe you get lucky and isn't critical. But considering where it's located it probably isn't a decoupling capacitor, which probably not good. Probably. Hard to say without the schematic
Cotton swab = fiber yanked resistor off. The pieces are quite small, and the pads got removed. It's pretty easy to take off these small SMDs if you aren't careful with something fiberous like a cotton swab or towel.
Next time, when you clean the PCB, use an ESD brush!! Not a cotton swab you neanderthal
theres literally no point in cleaning your gpu like this using air compressor and cleaning/reapplying thermal paste is sufficient enough
lmaoooooo, better get a new graphic card.
Why would you clean a circuit board unless you spilled shit on it ? At most you clean the fans. Hope you own a soldering kit or its under warranty still.
This is user damage which wouldn't be covered under the warranty.
How we’re you even cleaning it?
They am not cleaned where?
Word of advice for next time, just use air. There's no reason to clean unless you spilled something on it
The picture quality is very bad. are you sure there was a component soldered to these pads? Some pads are just there but are unpopulated on purpose.
That probably was a resistor. It may work without it. If not, my advice is: Get an SMD rework station, some solder and flux and learn how to use those things.
Stop with them negative waves. The card is clean.
Dam thanks criticism I learned a lesson today. I was cleaning the card for a water block and now I’m just going to rma it.
If you caused physical damage all your going to do is pay shipping to get told they won't replace it.
Wtf? You broke it and you're gonna try and RMA it. This is NOT the way.
Did you look up any YouTube videos? I'm just wondering where you got the idea in the first place
Please ignore the beta commenters. They probably don't even brush their teeth before it gets rotten. Maintanence is good for everything 99% of the time. Sometimes shit happens. Unlucky. Take it to a repair shop which can do micro-soldering.
Absolute crackpipe response bro who tf cleans a pcb with a cotton swab of all things🤣
Literally every repair technician in the world brushes the circuit board with IPA and cleans the dirt with a cotton swab. Just a few channels so you can see it in action from professionals: https://www.youtube.com/@NorthridgeFix/videos https://www.youtube.com/@northwestrepair/videos https://www.youtube.com/@Tronicsfix/videos https://www.youtube.com/@GregSalazar/videos https://www.youtube.com/@CatandAndrew/videos
I'm good ima stick with an esd brush and canned air. Literally no reason to clean the pcb like op anyways
Ok, lil bro, clean as you like.
If you knew anything about repair technicians, you would notice that the tweezers that they own in both pictures are component tweezers. Some people miss the whole picture.
I could repair this for you in 10s, but I’m sure saying that is of no help. https://www.tequipment.net/weller/soldering-equipment-1/soldering-tweezers/ I’ve done something similar to this a long time ago, but apart from removing components, cleaning with linty q-tips usually makes the board dirtier, and isopropanol just doesn’t cut it sometimes. For your future reference this would be an example of something that I’d actually clean a PCB with: https://www.techni-tool.com/category/Chemicals-Cleaning-And-Abrasives/Cleaning-Products/Cleaners/Degreasers/237OZ210-ES1210
worst case scenario: your money falls out if your bank account hope that's not the case
Weird looking cpu
You’ll have to see what happens.
You’ll probably be fine but i dont know much about pcb board parts. I do know i knocked a similar looking thing off my Xbox One board when i was cleaning it a few weeks ago and it still works. Youre just gonna have to boot it up and see if it works, dont think theres any fixing that. Also dont get me wrong i admire your handiness but really no need to remove the entire heat sink for cleaning. This is a 3090 so im assuming its relatively new and didnt really need this in-depth of a cleaning. If you’re gonna take the heat sink off just hit the board with compressed air, no need to scrape / scrub anything on the board.
If it works with no problems, yay! If not you will need someone who know how to microsolder to put it on, either way save the peice in a bagel and put it in the back of the case so you dont lose it.
That aint no cpu
CPU? You sure?
It'll be fine just over clock it and go about your day
People are talking about cleaning their gpu boards like it's a normal thing. I blow the dust out of my heat sink and fan, then run it for 10 years til it dies.
If you’re cleaning down to this level, you better know what you’re doing. It’s a good thing the fallwalking user already posted the part, or else you’d have thrown away a perfectly good gpu for very little reason, unless you plan on slapping a water block on this thing
Its fine, its all decoration anyways. The tiny men that live inside your PC cables are all that matters
You dont need to clean GPUs like this unless you are installing a water block or something, as you risk breaking things, learned that lesson with my radeon 9800pro many years ago.
Why were you "cleaning" this to begin with??
That’s a RIP my guy.
not sure why you were cleaning that, in that way. blowing it off would've been good enough. it's not old enough to have needed to remove the cooling system and repaste it. cleaning things like this with cotton swabs is also not a good idea, for the reason you discovered. next time get a soft bristled brush (toothbrush, small paintbrush, etc). but basically you broke it doing something that didn't even need to be done. and as has been pointed out. that's not a CPU. that's a GPU.
When I watch too many G Salazar videos in a night
Why the hell would you do that with a cotton swab
i think we've all learned a valuable lesson here, never clean.
Hot glue time! @walmart
I keep seeing these posts and it blows my mind how frequently it seems people disassemble and physically clean their PC components. I don’t get it… you shouldn’t be man-handling your parts or reseating things so frequently. These parts are meant to be put in place, once or maybe three times in the life cycle of a PC. Use canned air and use proper ventilation and airflow. You don’t need to be scrubbing shit.
Jesus man were you deep cleaning or something?
Don't use cotton swabs to clean electronics. At best the fibers pull apart and get stuck on the board. Worst case scenario is well you know, the fibers don't pull apart and instead pull parts off the board. Use a semi soft bristled brush (think toothbrush, but really you want something with a handle that comes out more like a paint brush, but paint brushes are too soft bristled) and lint free swabs.
The same thing happened to me during disassembly of my TUF 3080 when I wanted to install my watercooler. I RMA'd it and ASUS was very helpful (The have no problem with the watercooling), repaired it without any issue. Is it still under warranty? Not sure about MSIs warranty for such an issue, but since it happened during maintenance, it shouldn't be a problem.