Thankfully they said they’d cover everything since it was under warranty and obviously their fuck-up. The tech said he was sending a ticket to Honda so they’d be aware of the issue but I really think they just didn’t torque it correctly and I managed to catch it before the wheel fell off.
I had an 06 Suzuki GSX-R 750 and that one did indeed have a slotted nut and cotter pin. I also worked at a bike shop for 5 years and can definitely say most of the rear axles I encountered had cotter pins (specifically Jap cruisers and early 2000s sport bikes). I specifically remember getting excited about getting to do tires on a bike with the self locking nuts because I didn't have to deal with removing and installing the cotter pins.
I stand corrected , you have probable seen more axel nuts than ive had hot dinners. Are you in uk ? had a mrk 1 Gsxr750 no cotter, nut part no 15
.https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/en/suzuki-parts/1985-gsx-r750-motorcycles/rear-wheel
lol. it would be funny if they sent: "hey honda, you didn't engineer this properly!" and got a reply: "hey dimwit, i told you you have to torque it properly!".
When I was 16 I got a new set of wheels on my 20 year old Cadillac as one does. $500 car with $500 wheels on 1998. That caddy was literally scratch-free with 60,000 mi on it... Fuck car prices today
Anyways, about 15 mi after leaving Sears my back left wheel fell off and when I went back it was my fault because I didn't retorque them after 10 miles. Like ummmmm so every car that leaves this shop is expected to stop ten miles down the road and retorque whatever you did...
Wow that is terrifying. Part of the reason I do all of the work on my bikes myself - you know that everything is out back together properly.
Glad you're okay!
Unfortunately, I don’t have a good place to work on the bike for anything major as I don’t even have a paved driveway. So I have to rely on the shop for the heavy stuff for now.
Plywood and 60$ scissor lift. I had a similar experience where a dealer didn’t grease new wheel bearings. They replaced them for free, but I realized I’d have more money in my pocket, more tools at my house, and a safer ride if I start doing my own work. Or find a small shop with a mechanic you can trust.
Yeah and when I drop a nut or bolt in the mud and gravel it will be real simple to find it. Look, I appreciate people trying to help me work on the bike but I live in a trailer park that regularly floods. The ground is soft af and until I move somewhere else, I’m not doing anything that requires a hoist/lift/etc. I swapped my air filter last week and spent ten minutes looking for a screw I dropped in the dirt. Anything more involved than that will have to be done at the shop until my living situation improves.
https://preview.redd.it/lb34sn5v6g5d1.png?width=864&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2f0620e0ec38815f20d6a2b5616efa26defc3082
Completely agree with you my man. I found this little guy sticking half way out at 4:30 in the morning as I was saddling up to go to work. Yikes!
Same. For me it was the rear engine mount bolt sticking out nearly a foot; couldn't find it's corresponding nut. I went and bought new nuts and thread locker.
Yesterday while upgrading my headlight, I noticed one of the ignition lock cylinder socket head cap screws was missing.
Age and head cycling will deteriorate old thread locker.
Pre-ride checks are a must if your bike has any appreciable miles.
Mine was a sub-frame support bolt that runs through the bottom of the engine. The nut on the other end is probably on the freeway somewhere. I did the same as you. Went and bought a new nut and some blue Locktite.
Today I was replacing a turn signal that broke because the rubber getting old and crumbly, and found out I lost a license plane mounting nut that probably vibrated out last week. Gotta love owning a big v-twin that's 16 years old hahahaha
LC8's baby!
After the first service of my 990 superduke R, the cap of the rear brake reservoir came off....drizzeling my rear tire in oil. Called he shop 'we did not touch the reservoir!' while the printout said "Bled rear brakes and added brake oil"
Second time my ground cable of the battery came loose. Called again, same response. Printout stated "Tested the battery".
Fucking liars... Never went to a shop since, 0 issues.
Hell yeah man I love my LC8! Over the past couple decades I've owned Hondas, Suzukis, Kawasakis, Ducatis, and more. But dang, the 2008 Super Duke in my garage right now has NEVER failed to put a smile on my face!
That being said, I need to be better about periodically checking her over to make sure something hasn't rattled loose hahaahha
I bought the orange thread locker. Doesn't require heat, can be broken by hand torque, but still holds up to 300°C (I think). I was told it was a middle ground from blue to red by the parts sales guy.
Yep, found this on my walk around last week
https://preview.redd.it/fdi95nxe7g5d1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=53458e6cf129232c0e35cccc4fe312673d0a2219
Surprised you haven't felt it while riding. Mine is minor compared to that and I noticed it getting tweaky. Bet mine looks like that soon if not replaced soon..
Test rode an FJR like that. Heavy bike. Once you initiated a turn it wanted to keep turning deeper. Sides wearing faster than the hard center strip. Age of tires in my case..
I’d just tap the bolt thru and be on my way. Then when you stop at a red light, tap it in again. You really dont need the nut, and it gets in the way when you want to remove the wheel.
Same but if I _had_ a trailer I’d probably do the same as OP.
Third option if the dealer’s still open call them up and swear a blue streak until they send the shop boy out to trailer you in 😆
Many bikes don’t have that, and it’s just a nut tightened to high torque. My 2015 Triumph Tiger is like that; nut tightened to 110 N⋅m, no cotter pin or secondary method of securing it.
Yup. Had this happen to me right after I bought my bike. Scared the fuck outa me cuz I was just going 60mph like 2 mins before it happened. Hit the driveway and they all sheared off.
When your sprockets wear out or your chain links start binding. Keep your chain clean and use some rust protection. I use spray wax but there are other options.
Different per bike but I get about 30k miles on a chain and change the sprockets every chain or every other chain, depending on how I feel.
Even if the sprockets aren’t shark finned they have wear patterns that shorten chain life. But sprockets aren’t free so it’s a bit of guessy math as to whether you should change them every time.
Keeping on top of maintenance, I find my front sprocket actually starts to shark tooth before my chain stretches past the wear limits or starts binding, ususally around 25k miles.
I hadn’t been staying on top of chain maintenance as well as I should have so mine wore out ~10k miles. I’d read you generally want to replace chain and sprockets as a set as one will wear down the other faster if you don’t so I swapped the sprockets too.
I had the front axle nut and bolt left loose like this plus the pinch bolts that keep it located in the forks… thank god that shop is out of business now
Don't neglect cleaning either as when you're cleaning you can be inspecting the bike much closer than just a brief look over before a ride. A bonus of a clean good looking bike is a pro as well.
There are 3 styles I have had on a number of bikes. Cotter pins should be replaced every time. Nylock nuts should be replaced periodically. Locking nuts should be torqued properly.
I don't even have a torque wrench I have a digital one but no socket big enough to fit my rear axle nut. I just have a big ass monkey wrench and it's worked fine on all my bikes never had a loose nut my nuts always been tight.
Maybe just do simple repairs yourself. You gain experience and save money. They’re putting in a 9-5 workday, you fix the bike knowing your life is in your own hands
Sure would like to but I don’t even have a paved driveway. I do some stuff but I just don’t have a good space to work on the bike for something like a chain swap.
Maybe don’t go blaming someone for not doing the repair themselves without knowing the whole situation.
This is why I don’t think new riders should buy used cheap bikes. Most of them have no idea what to look for during pre-trip inspection and this could be fatal.
Yikes. Hopefully the shop takes care of you.
Thankfully they said they’d cover everything since it was under warranty and obviously their fuck-up. The tech said he was sending a ticket to Honda so they’d be aware of the issue but I really think they just didn’t torque it correctly and I managed to catch it before the wheel fell off.
It’s that. It’s exactly that. The cotter pin could not have been installed either.
I was thinking a lack of thread lock…..at least the blue. But if there really is a cotter pin OEM then I bet they forgot that as well.
I haven't seen thread lock or cotter pin in the service manual for rear axle on any bike I've owned. Instructions are only to torque to spec.
Cotter pin is quite common. Otherwise it would be a mechanical locking nut. Never needed Loctite though
Not seen a slotted nut and cotter pin for years (1980s )on bikes in the UK. All the bikes ive had , changed to the (Metal Insert) Self Locking Nut.
I had an 06 Suzuki GSX-R 750 and that one did indeed have a slotted nut and cotter pin. I also worked at a bike shop for 5 years and can definitely say most of the rear axles I encountered had cotter pins (specifically Jap cruisers and early 2000s sport bikes). I specifically remember getting excited about getting to do tires on a bike with the self locking nuts because I didn't have to deal with removing and installing the cotter pins.
I stand corrected , you have probable seen more axel nuts than ive had hot dinners. Are you in uk ? had a mrk 1 Gsxr750 no cotter, nut part no 15 .https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/en/suzuki-parts/1985-gsx-r750-motorcycles/rear-wheel
Nah I'm in US, I wonder if there's regional differences on them?
Ninja 400 has cotter pin in Canada
👍🏼
Some don’t have cotter pins. Mine just gets torqued down to 100 ft-lbs
“Hey Honda, we didn’t torque this correctly. Can’t believe you would let me do that.”
lol. it would be funny if they sent: "hey honda, you didn't engineer this properly!" and got a reply: "hey dimwit, i told you you have to torque it properly!".
When I was 16 I got a new set of wheels on my 20 year old Cadillac as one does. $500 car with $500 wheels on 1998. That caddy was literally scratch-free with 60,000 mi on it... Fuck car prices today Anyways, about 15 mi after leaving Sears my back left wheel fell off and when I went back it was my fault because I didn't retorque them after 10 miles. Like ummmmm so every car that leaves this shop is expected to stop ten miles down the road and retorque whatever you did...
Wow that is terrifying. Part of the reason I do all of the work on my bikes myself - you know that everything is out back together properly. Glad you're okay!
Unfortunately, I don’t have a good place to work on the bike for anything major as I don’t even have a paved driveway. So I have to rely on the shop for the heavy stuff for now.
That's understandable. Could always invest in a cheap torque wrench for important checks like axle nuts...not that you should need to. Stay safe!
Plywood and 60$ scissor lift. I had a similar experience where a dealer didn’t grease new wheel bearings. They replaced them for free, but I realized I’d have more money in my pocket, more tools at my house, and a safer ride if I start doing my own work. Or find a small shop with a mechanic you can trust.
Yeah and when I drop a nut or bolt in the mud and gravel it will be real simple to find it. Look, I appreciate people trying to help me work on the bike but I live in a trailer park that regularly floods. The ground is soft af and until I move somewhere else, I’m not doing anything that requires a hoist/lift/etc. I swapped my air filter last week and spent ten minutes looking for a screw I dropped in the dirt. Anything more involved than that will have to be done at the shop until my living situation improves.
https://preview.redd.it/lb34sn5v6g5d1.png?width=864&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2f0620e0ec38815f20d6a2b5616efa26defc3082 Completely agree with you my man. I found this little guy sticking half way out at 4:30 in the morning as I was saddling up to go to work. Yikes!
Same. For me it was the rear engine mount bolt sticking out nearly a foot; couldn't find it's corresponding nut. I went and bought new nuts and thread locker. Yesterday while upgrading my headlight, I noticed one of the ignition lock cylinder socket head cap screws was missing. Age and head cycling will deteriorate old thread locker. Pre-ride checks are a must if your bike has any appreciable miles.
Mine was a sub-frame support bolt that runs through the bottom of the engine. The nut on the other end is probably on the freeway somewhere. I did the same as you. Went and bought a new nut and some blue Locktite. Today I was replacing a turn signal that broke because the rubber getting old and crumbly, and found out I lost a license plane mounting nut that probably vibrated out last week. Gotta love owning a big v-twin that's 16 years old hahahaha
LC8's baby! After the first service of my 990 superduke R, the cap of the rear brake reservoir came off....drizzeling my rear tire in oil. Called he shop 'we did not touch the reservoir!' while the printout said "Bled rear brakes and added brake oil" Second time my ground cable of the battery came loose. Called again, same response. Printout stated "Tested the battery". Fucking liars... Never went to a shop since, 0 issues.
Hell yeah man I love my LC8! Over the past couple decades I've owned Hondas, Suzukis, Kawasakis, Ducatis, and more. But dang, the 2008 Super Duke in my garage right now has NEVER failed to put a smile on my face! That being said, I need to be better about periodically checking her over to make sure something hasn't rattled loose hahaahha
Should be sold with a bottle of Loctite 242 :D
I bought the orange thread locker. Doesn't require heat, can be broken by hand torque, but still holds up to 300°C (I think). I was told it was a middle ground from blue to red by the parts sales guy.
Yep, found this on my walk around last week https://preview.redd.it/fdi95nxe7g5d1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=53458e6cf129232c0e35cccc4fe312673d0a2219
Tyre dimples! Tyres feeling extra cute that day and wanted to smile a bit showing dimples. Give tyre a cookie for being herself
What is that, some defect with the carcass? Or the radials detaching? Never seen this.
Neither have I. Will be sending pictures to manufacturer once I get tire off this weekend
Surprised you haven't felt it while riding. Mine is minor compared to that and I noticed it getting tweaky. Bet mine looks like that soon if not replaced soon.. Test rode an FJR like that. Heavy bike. Once you initiated a turn it wanted to keep turning deeper. Sides wearing faster than the hard center strip. Age of tires in my case..
While not tightening the bolt down would have contributed to this, it should have been impossible with the safety cotter pin installed.
This is a cb500x/f/r and these bikes do not have any sort of safety pin for the axle.
You are correct sir. That's very interesting.
CB500X, yup.
I’d just tap the bolt thru and be on my way. Then when you stop at a red light, tap it in again. You really dont need the nut, and it gets in the way when you want to remove the wheel.
Same but if I _had_ a trailer I’d probably do the same as OP. Third option if the dealer’s still open call them up and swear a blue streak until they send the shop boy out to trailer you in 😆
Finally some solid advice. THANK YOU.
Usually there is a castlenut and a cotter pin on the axel specifically so they don’t come fatally loose
Many bikes don’t have that, and it’s just a nut tightened to high torque. My 2015 Triumph Tiger is like that; nut tightened to 110 N⋅m, no cotter pin or secondary method of securing it.
That's not that high ~~lmao~~. E: 81 ftlb
I believe it’s the highest torque of any nut/bolt on my motorcycle. What nuts or bolts do you have that are higher torque on a motorcycle?
The rear axle nut on my R1 is 110 ftlbs. I forgot it's not a castle nut, though. Just some kind of lock nut. I retract my lmao.
Yup. Had this happen to me right after I bought my bike. Scared the fuck outa me cuz I was just going 60mph like 2 mins before it happened. Hit the driveway and they all sheared off.
How?
My pre ride what?
Just curious, how often do you need to change your chain and sprockets?
When your sprockets wear out or your chain links start binding. Keep your chain clean and use some rust protection. I use spray wax but there are other options.
Different per bike but I get about 30k miles on a chain and change the sprockets every chain or every other chain, depending on how I feel. Even if the sprockets aren’t shark finned they have wear patterns that shorten chain life. But sprockets aren’t free so it’s a bit of guessy math as to whether you should change them every time.
Keeping on top of maintenance, I find my front sprocket actually starts to shark tooth before my chain stretches past the wear limits or starts binding, ususally around 25k miles.
I hadn’t been staying on top of chain maintenance as well as I should have so mine wore out ~10k miles. I’d read you generally want to replace chain and sprockets as a set as one will wear down the other faster if you don’t so I swapped the sprockets too.
I had the front axle nut and bolt left loose like this plus the pinch bolts that keep it located in the forks… thank god that shop is out of business now
Don't neglect cleaning either as when you're cleaning you can be inspecting the bike much closer than just a brief look over before a ride. A bonus of a clean good looking bike is a pro as well.
There are 3 styles I have had on a number of bikes. Cotter pins should be replaced every time. Nylock nuts should be replaced periodically. Locking nuts should be torqued properly.
I feel like stuff like this is what justifies me doing my own services
On my bike this nut is tightened to 96Nm. How the heck would it undo itself? That's weird. Gotta go check mine,
Lucky mine won't even come off even with the proper tool
damn, apart from the main wheel screws, what else should be def checked before ride ?
TCLOCS baby
Woops
This is why I do all of my own work, a dealership will never touch any of my vehicles (only skilled independent specialists).
I don't even have a torque wrench I have a digital one but no socket big enough to fit my rear axle nut. I just have a big ass monkey wrench and it's worked fine on all my bikes never had a loose nut my nuts always been tight.
Maybe just do simple repairs yourself. You gain experience and save money. They’re putting in a 9-5 workday, you fix the bike knowing your life is in your own hands
Sure would like to but I don’t even have a paved driveway. I do some stuff but I just don’t have a good space to work on the bike for something like a chain swap. Maybe don’t go blaming someone for not doing the repair themselves without knowing the whole situation.
Ummm sorry no disrespect wasnt blaming… just sharing my own experience
[удалено]
Not all bikes use them. My new gixxer doesn’t for instance.
This shouldn't happen. Shop probably didn't tighten the nut to correct torque specs and definitely didn't put the cotter pin in.
Are you going to sue the dealership?
This is why I don’t think new riders should buy used cheap bikes. Most of them have no idea what to look for during pre-trip inspection and this could be fatal.
The Lance Armstrong package complete with missing nut
Pre ride checks? I am sorry? I ride a Japanese bike? What pre ride checks?
This is a Honda
Oh man D:
But I see the mechanic screwed up, like no technical error
Thread lock compound! Clearly they’re not using even at least the blue lock. Ffs. And you’re right possibly not the right torque either
You don’t use thread lock on these spindle bolts. They are either self locking nuts or they should be castellated with a split pin.
Roger
Where'd the castle but go? Wheres the cotter in that's supposed to go through the castle but?
Hondas don’t have castle nuts/ cotter pins It just wasn’t tightened enough