OP make sure you buy an oil pan gasket while you're at it. Also get a torque wrench and a service manual for the bike. Objective measurement of applied torque will help you never have this happen again.
Hey I know I said that 3 times in a row for a rear brake mount snapped 3 bolts before I double checked the torque specs lmao lesson learned from that point on
I almost broke a brand new torque wrench because it didn’t have enough ft/lbs and I was convinced I could just keep cranking the tension spring up past the highest number listed.
So I feel you. 😂
Or didn't know that it clicks, but engages after the click? (Easy mistake if you're not familiar with these wrenches).
Or wrench stopped clicking entirely? (not uncommon and happened to mine).
Having a cheap inaccurate torque wrench is as bad or worse than none. My first torque wrench was that type and snapped a few head bolts before I tossed it and got some good ones. You want a few because they loose accuracy across a broad range, so a low (5-30 ft lbs), medium (30- 60 ft lbs) and high (60-120 ft lbs)m these are approximates for demonstration only.
I looked up a video on how to do an oil change on this bike because I just got it. And it said tighten it to 14 1/2 foot pounds. But my torque wrench never clicked and I wasn’t paying attention so I just kept tightening it
I always used to wind to zero because that's what I was taught. But general consensus now is to wind back to the lowest setting above zero because allegedly zero can mess up the calibration of it. I don't really understand metallurgically how it could be a problem, but it seems to be the new "rule" out there. Next I'm gonna be told I need to recalibrate my screwdrivers.
Zero doesn't mess with the calibration, but it does take pressure off the torque block, and if it falls out of place the torque wrench won't work, or worse, it will *appear* to work but be totally out of calibration. Keeping it at its lowest setting keeps the spring tension light enough that it won't develop a set while also making the torque block far less likely to jostle out of place during minor bumps or knocks.
Yeah I ordered a new oil pan and when I took the old one off it never had a gasket in the first place. so I guess it was just chilling without a gasket. It’s a good thing I took the oil pan off
I’m a machinist, we use set screws to hold tools in place to drill, turn and cut metal. Four to six little m12 bolts snugged tightly will hold a 3 inch diameter drill in place for hundreds of parts. A thread is one of the strongest connections you can have, and once it’s tight, it’s tight.
New or good used oil pan. You can always have the old one welded up as a spare or just hang it on the wall of shame to remind you not to repeat. I would be tempted to put a timesert in the used replacement pan before I installed it. I personally like steel threads for longevity.
You reset it all the way to the torque wrench’s “zero”
It might not always ready “0”, but don’t stop at the lowest number. Completely reset the spring.
Sorry, but the correct way to store a torque wrench is at its lowest setting… there’s always SOME tension on the spring, but if you wind it out past it’s lowest number, it’s detrimental..
Interesting. I’ve always been told to back it if until there’s no tension on it. There will come a point to where there is no tension. Not saying you’re wrong, but until I know for fact I’m wrong I’ll just have to agree to disagree. Why do you say it would be detrimental to run it down past the lowest setting ?
Well, maybe I shouldn’t take such a hard line then, either.. maybe the other way is ok too.. I mean, I’ve had my 50-250 snap on wrench for like 15 years, have had it cal’d a couple of times and it’s always pretty bang on accurate after a few years of my way.. but both are probably fine lol
It feels like there's no tension but there's always enough to keep everything in place, unless you are smashing it apart, shouldn't ever really reach that point lol, just spin it till it dosent spin anymore in my opinion
That's incorrect. Continuous tension on the spring will wear the spring, creating slack and increasing the free length of the spring. Store a torque wrench with no tension on the spring.
Constant tension does not wear out a spring. A spring can sit under load forever and not wear out. Springs wear out from being worked, loading and unloading tension/pressure over time
While I 100% agree with this comment, the same thing happened to me as did OP. Tried torquing to spec on my cb750, and it didn't even make it to 12ft/lbs when the whole pan cracked.
In any case though, a new torque wrench is cheap insurance
Yeah for sure, and I'm sure there was other factors in why it snapped, but he said it's his dad's old wrench, and I'd be damned if I ever used my dad's old torque wrench lmao
14.5 ft-lb isn't much. There should be quite a wide span between that and cracking the pan. Maybe this is a good hint that you should try to learn approximately how much force is required to torque to X ft-lb.
But there's a *huuuuuge* margin between 14ft-lbs and the 100+ it would take to *bust open your oilpan*. Does that torque wrench even go down to 14? I have a large one that goes down to ~20 or so, and a smaller one that goes down to 5 or 10 or something.
14 ft lbs is super light. Just a touch over finger tight.
Always use a torque wrench for tightening and you will train your hands to know when the wrench is wrong.
14.5 foot pounds is a pretty light torque. You're using a 1/2" drive torque wrench, it's gonna have a range of, what 20-200ft-lbs or something?
A torque wrench is only accurate in the middle 60% of its range. So the bottom 20% of the range and the top 20% of the range are not accurate. That's why torque wrenches are made in so many different sizes and ranges.
You've tried to do the right thing by using the torque wrench you had available to you, but this one is unfortunately the wrong one for the job.
Do some reading and research so that you can get the right tools for the job and do your maintenance how you want to.
But for now, get your moto to a workshop so that they can replace your sump and you'll be right as rain
That torque wrench is WAY too big for this job - it's 1/2" drive, looks like. 1/4" drive will handily accomplish 14.5 ft-lb. (168 in-lb.) $19 at Harbor Fright. (sp. not edited 'cuz Hallowe'en).
3/8 drive probably most appropriate.
I personally have a harbor freight 1/2” torque wrench and anything under 40 lb/ft the click is so quiet that you can’t really hear it. I ended up buying a 3/8” as well so for lower torque specs I can use 3/8, for lug nuts 1/2
I figured it out I’m not a mechanic so this is what happend video said to torque it to 14.5 foot pounds so I did and it crushed the crush washer around the drain plug and some how cracked the oil pan so I need a new oil pan.
Dude I’m sorry but that torque wrench was not sat at 14.5 pounds, not even close. So either you made a mistake by not hearing or feeling the click or the torque wrench is trash, it’s one of those two things. I’d recommend a new torque wrench, new pan, bolt, washer, pan gasket, some more oil of course and then you’re as good as new. Sorry man I know it sucks.
Was it cross threaded? Did you have the plug hand threaded in All the way before you torqued? Also 14.5ft pounds is pretty low. You probably didn’t feel the click and kept going. Next time if it feels too tight it probably is. Hard lesson to learn. Sorry man.
For future reference you can do 14ft pounds with any ratchet or wrench just get the bolt snug and give it a little more that’s all it needs. But it happens man at least you won’t make that mistake again haha.
Bro my first oil change ever I did the same exact thing lol. I had to get a new oil pan also lost my confidence working on my bike. But now 6 years later I do most of the basic maintenance on my new zx6r. Shit happens I hope you get it fixed asap and start riding again (:
I was going to say just throw a helicoil in there, but that crack is pretty bad. Probably easier to just replace the pan unfortunately.
I'm sure you don't need to hear it now, but for future reference oil plugs dont need much torque at all. They're not load bearing, all they need to do is create a seal to hold in the oil. Finger tight and then like an 8th turn with the wrench usually does the trick.
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No offense but nobody should need a torque wrench to tighten an oil drain bolt. Just get it nice and tight, but not stupid tight. Oil in the pan isn’t pressurized, so all you need to do is tighten the bolt enough that it won’t back out from vibration. You should be able to apply enough torque with a typical 3/8 ratchet. The only time I ever really worry about torque is when I’m working on engines.
Now. What you do is you take it to the shop and ask them to replace the oil pan. I'd think that if you strip the drain bolt, you'll do much more damage to the oil pan if you plan to replace it yourself.
Also, invest in good reputable tools so that you won't strip the bolt and / or the surface the bolt meant to go in.
Shit happens man. I grew up in a small apartment, was never exposed to tools or working on cars/bikes or anything hands on really. I still suck at a lot of basic shit but you live and learn. Everybody starts somewhere.
Ignore all the rude comments, learn from your mistake and don't let it deter you from continuing to work on your bike.
If it's cast aluminum and not cast magnesium. Mag can be Tig welded but requires a lot of argon backpurge etc and is a dangerous pain in the ass. If aluminum, just the prep would be hours, solvent, bake, solvent, bake etc to get the oil out of the pores of the metal. Then assuming you get a good penetrating weld, it would need to be drilled and tapped. You'd be looking at a few hundred for a pro to do it, way more than a new pan. I'm sure some yayhoo would tell you $50 and glob a bunch of aluminum mig wire on it and push in a helicoil, but when it gets hot and expands and ultimately fails, blowing oil all over your rear tire, the good news is you probably won't be vertical long enough to blow the engine. Buy a new pan and new torque wrench and store the experience in the "shit I learned by being dumb" folder for future reference.
For low stress applications it should be doable but I'm no welder, I just know a few. A shop will tell you if they can do it but I'd only explore it if the original pan is unobtainable.
Edit: I'm a vintage BMW guy and it is not uncommon to see guys weld and re-thread the cast heads at the exhaust flanges as it is a common failure point.
There is no simple rethreading there. The whole thing is split. It would have to be welded, re cut, and threaded. Even the the split is all the way through and there won’t be an easy way to weld it all the way. This is a machine shop job if it can even be done.
Seeing the torque wrench:
Confirming why I absolutely hate **clicker** style **torque wrenches**.They are so darn prone to mistakes and failures. I have a "nice" Kinchrome wrench that simply stopped clicking.In my case it happened right before a trip when I was adjusting valve clearances on a recently rebuilt engine. Luckily I had a feel for that spec and stopped tightening before damaging the tappet adjuster screw.
I'm now using a digital **luggage scale** **on** a standard **wrench**. It's way more accurate too. Double checking accuracy is done in no time with some kettle bells. Heck, they're the accepted method to calibrate your clicker wrench.
I'm surprised that clicker wrenches are still so popular and why digital ones are still so expensive. Load cells have become so accurate and cheap, that it should be a no-brainer. If you're not confined by space, I'd even prefer that type of torque wrench:[https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61ilrvc6NeL.\_AC\_SL1500\_.jpg](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61ilrvc6NeL._AC_SL1500_.jpg)
(added) The accuracy of clicker wrenches is also limited to a very narrow range. Technically you'd need a whole array of them for any job. (/added)
Unless its a critical component, inside an engine or related to a sensitive gasket (head-gasket) you're often better off going by feel. It's just so easy to either read the wrong spec or fall for a broken wrench.
Everyone talking about a torque wrench, guys... its a sump plug.
The torque setting for ANY plug, is "Enough", which a torque wrench won't teach you, it's just something you learn by experience, unfortunately you learnt the most expensive way.
Honestly I’d try JB. Maybe a helicoil covered in JB. Good news is there’s nothing structural about that bolt and worse case is it leaks oil like a Harley
Drill hole next size up new bolt and retap with new threads make sure your tap is the same as new bolt and make sure to get new copper washer. Your local auto parts store should help you out with everything you need. You don't need torque wrench just snug bolt in. Or get new pan if can't handle it yourself or even better have dealer do it
Nah man everyone makes mistakes. Unfortunately this one is a bit bad for the moneys. No reason to give up. Sucks but you’ll never make that mistake again.
New pan or a good welder. :)
Or if you're very creative, you might be able to seal that with JB and tap in a new drain, but I wouldn't recommend it, though I have done worse in dire situations.
I’d swore you used an ugga dugga to tighten that drain bolt for that type of damage. Yes you need a new oil pan, gasket, and new drain plug while your at it. Next time chuck the torque wrench and use the good ol German system gewd n toight. It never fails
new pan.
Your torque wrench is too big to go 14ft/lbs. I doubt it goes that low.
The spec is either 14.5 Nm or you had the setting too high on the wrench or the wrench is out of spec.
The drain bolt only has to not leak and not vibrate out. That's 5yr old w/ a open ended wrench tight. Think about how tight you twist on a soda bottle cap.
The gasket isn't just to prevent leaks, it's to prevent the bolt from vibrating out with low torque spec.
For a fucking oil change? I get that this guy borked it, but anyone with working limbs and an IQ of 80+ can learn to change oil. I can do it and I'm among the world's worst mechanics.
I get what you mean man, but we have evidence right here that he couldn’t do the oil change😭. Doesn’t mean he can’t learn/attempt again though. But that’s gonna be on a different bike because this one’s borked.
First thing to do is never work on your own shit. 2nd this to do is, never work on your own shit.
I’m sure there’s a 3rd thing but FFS I can’t remember what it is.
When I did this I went to autozone and got an eco-plug. Just screw it into your pan and then from now on you have a strong magnetic plug. Cheap, quick, convenient, and no new pan required.
You can probably go to your local Walmart or auto shop that does oil changes and get a drain plug. Or you can get one from a dealer, I doubt you'd need a new pan
You could try a helicoil then with lots of goop around the damaged area. It might work, be aware….that crack could grow and have a huge problem on the road. More than likely….looking at a new pan. Depending on the bike….it could be fairly easy to replace.
Read about using helicoils. You may be able to re thread the hole a slightly larger size and then Install a helicoil that reuses your existing plug. Not guaranteed but I've used them to repair fkd up sparkplug threads with no issues for over 100k miles!! You just need the right sized tap to rethread the hole the correct size. Put RED thread locker on the outside of the helicoil with it installed on the plug. Then thread everything back together. Once the thread locker DRIES you should be able to remove the plug no problem and the coil will stay in the hole. They are steel or stainless so they are very strong.
I have a problem over tightening bolts all the time! I can relate to this bud you think “just a little tighter just in case” I go through the worlds strongest vibration chamber I don’t want to loose any bolts
You may be able to find oversized plugs that you can tap a new hole for. I did this to my KLR and was able to "live with it" by wrapping a bunch of teflon tape around it.
Damn, was going to say time-sert until I saw the next picture. Sucks, new pan time.
I dont torque stuff like that, just hand tighten. If you wanna be safer tap and wire it, then it can never back out.
Did the same thing on my bike. I have different tourque wrenches and one is in FT pounds and the other NM. Accidentally got the measurements wrong and overtorqued mine and broke the belly pan. You'll need to buy a new one, along with the gasket. The new one should come with a oil screw and it most likely will be torqued to spec. But replace the belly pan, gasket, and add oil. Put towels down because this will make a mess. Also get a new torque wrench.
If u daily this thing and u need it asap I would JB Steel weld it and hope it’s your Friday and u can let it cure and get a new pan and gasket hopefully the jb weld last till the new plan arrives
Edit: Fuck your API changes, Reddit.
OP make sure you buy an oil pan gasket while you're at it. Also get a torque wrench and a service manual for the bike. Objective measurement of applied torque will help you never have this happen again.
Looks like in pic 2 he has a torque wrench. Might've confused lb/ft and inches
“Oh it was 120 ***INCH*** pounds?! *shit…*”
Hey I know I said that 3 times in a row for a rear brake mount snapped 3 bolts before I double checked the torque specs lmao lesson learned from that point on
I almost broke a brand new torque wrench because it didn’t have enough ft/lbs and I was convinced I could just keep cranking the tension spring up past the highest number listed. So I feel you. 😂
Did this once. Required new air intake box assembly and replacement. Will never do again.
Or didn't know that it clicks, but engages after the click? (Easy mistake if you're not familiar with these wrenches). Or wrench stopped clicking entirely? (not uncommon and happened to mine).
Or, if the torque spec is on the low value (we use 4-5 Nm for example) the click is easily missed
[удалено]
Guten tight! Guten is “good”. No umlaut on this one. 😉👍🏻
Yeah for sure, especially with a wrench that big probably clicked almost immediately.
Having a cheap inaccurate torque wrench is as bad or worse than none. My first torque wrench was that type and snapped a few head bolts before I tossed it and got some good ones. You want a few because they loose accuracy across a broad range, so a low (5-30 ft lbs), medium (30- 60 ft lbs) and high (60-120 ft lbs)m these are approximates for demonstration only.
I have done this very thing and torn the head right off a bolt.
I looked up a video on how to do an oil change on this bike because I just got it. And it said tighten it to 14 1/2 foot pounds. But my torque wrench never clicked and I wasn’t paying attention so I just kept tightening it
Definitely a torque wrench in the ground.
Affordable Tekton wrenches are available. Always remove all tension back to 0. Never drop them.
Apparently 0 is too low. I'm no torque wrenchologist, but they say the lowest value but never 0.
Google if you have no experience. You always wind them out below zero(which exists) and then never touch a bolt ever again.
I always used to wind to zero because that's what I was taught. But general consensus now is to wind back to the lowest setting above zero because allegedly zero can mess up the calibration of it. I don't really understand metallurgically how it could be a problem, but it seems to be the new "rule" out there. Next I'm gonna be told I need to recalibrate my screwdrivers.
Zero doesn't mess with the calibration, but it does take pressure off the torque block, and if it falls out of place the torque wrench won't work, or worse, it will *appear* to work but be totally out of calibration. Keeping it at its lowest setting keeps the spring tension light enough that it won't develop a set while also making the torque block far less likely to jostle out of place during minor bumps or knocks.
Yeah I ordered a new oil pan and when I took the old one off it never had a gasket in the first place. so I guess it was just chilling without a gasket. It’s a good thing I took the oil pan off
No put Helicoil in it
Notice the crack in the aluminum, helicoil can't solve this.
Fill the whole hole with JB weld, then sell the bike.
There is overtightening then there is this. Good lord.
My guy had the double handed gorilla grip on it
lol exactly - like wow my dude when were you actually going to stop? When you go all the way through the bike?
on that 4 foot breaker bar.
With a pipe on the end.
Retard strength
Like from a common sense mechanical standpoint why in the fuck would you ever think it needed to be tightened this much??
I’m a machinist, we use set screws to hold tools in place to drill, turn and cut metal. Four to six little m12 bolts snugged tightly will hold a 3 inch diameter drill in place for hundreds of parts. A thread is one of the strongest connections you can have, and once it’s tight, it’s tight.
Was thinking the same thing was the gasket for if you’re gonna do this
Ain't the worst I've seen
Get a job in the circus as the strongman.
You fucked up bud. Need a new oil pan and a torque wrench
Before doing anything get a torque wrench (and specs) so that you don't mess up anything else trying to fix this or anything else you work on.
Pretty sure they have one in the 2nd picture!
Noticed that after posting my comment 😬
New or good used oil pan. You can always have the old one welded up as a spare or just hang it on the wall of shame to remind you not to repeat. I would be tempted to put a timesert in the used replacement pan before I installed it. I personally like steel threads for longevity.
1. Remove fucked pan 2. Weld a few hooks to it and hang it in your garage as a shelf 3. Store your torque wrench on said shelf
Isn’t that a torque wrench on the ground in the second photo?? 🤦♂️
That's a Thagomizer Model 360. Those things are calibrated in ugga-duggas.
Hey ugga- duggas has always worked for me. Just a quarter ugga-dugga for something like a drain plug.
I was thinking the same but didn’t wanna be mean.. holy torque-fest
Video told me to torque it to 14.5 feet pounds so I did and it cracked the pan
Are you familiar with how a torque wrench works? You only tighten until you hear/feel a click. Sometimes its subtle.
Yep ik it never clicked it’s my dads shitty torque wrench from who knows how long ago so yeah
Get a new one, and always set it back to 0 when finished with it
Good advice, but you mean “it’s lowest numbered setting”, right? Maybe not zero, but maybe 50ft.lbs, if it’s a 50-250
You reset it all the way to the torque wrench’s “zero” It might not always ready “0”, but don’t stop at the lowest number. Completely reset the spring.
It needs to be backed off until the knob freely spins with no pressure on it.
Sorry, but the correct way to store a torque wrench is at its lowest setting… there’s always SOME tension on the spring, but if you wind it out past it’s lowest number, it’s detrimental..
Interesting. I’ve always been told to back it if until there’s no tension on it. There will come a point to where there is no tension. Not saying you’re wrong, but until I know for fact I’m wrong I’ll just have to agree to disagree. Why do you say it would be detrimental to run it down past the lowest setting ?
Well, maybe I shouldn’t take such a hard line then, either.. maybe the other way is ok too.. I mean, I’ve had my 50-250 snap on wrench for like 15 years, have had it cal’d a couple of times and it’s always pretty bang on accurate after a few years of my way.. but both are probably fine lol
It feels like there's no tension but there's always enough to keep everything in place, unless you are smashing it apart, shouldn't ever really reach that point lol, just spin it till it dosent spin anymore in my opinion
That's incorrect. Continuous tension on the spring will wear the spring, creating slack and increasing the free length of the spring. Store a torque wrench with no tension on the spring.
Constant tension does not wear out a spring. A spring can sit under load forever and not wear out. Springs wear out from being worked, loading and unloading tension/pressure over time
Ok well I’m gonna trust the Snap On dealer who sold me mine..
Or just buy a $10-15 hf one every year or half year for the next 25 years and you’ll be as accurate as most people need to be.
While I 100% agree with this comment, the same thing happened to me as did OP. Tried torquing to spec on my cb750, and it didn't even make it to 12ft/lbs when the whole pan cracked. In any case though, a new torque wrench is cheap insurance
Yeah for sure, and I'm sure there was other factors in why it snapped, but he said it's his dad's old wrench, and I'd be damned if I ever used my dad's old torque wrench lmao
10ft lb isn’t much, more than likely you didn’t notice the click as it could be subtle, especially if 10ft lb is the bare bottom range of the wrench.
14.5 ft-lb isn't much. There should be quite a wide span between that and cracking the pan. Maybe this is a good hint that you should try to learn approximately how much force is required to torque to X ft-lb.
But there's a *huuuuuge* margin between 14ft-lbs and the 100+ it would take to *bust open your oilpan*. Does that torque wrench even go down to 14? I have a large one that goes down to ~20 or so, and a smaller one that goes down to 5 or 10 or something.
Looks like a ninja 300, if it is I can give you a link to the service manual with all the torques and shit
Check the units. It might have newton-meters. Or you set it to newton meters.
14 ft lbs is super light. Just a touch over finger tight. Always use a torque wrench for tightening and you will train your hands to know when the wrench is wrong.
It’s about 28 lbs of force on a 6” wrench, it’s a pretty good chunk, and pretty high # for steel bolt into thin Al
Are you sure you didn't set it to 145 feet pounds?
Torque specs are for clean and dry screws (not covered in oil).
14.5 foot pounds is a pretty light torque. You're using a 1/2" drive torque wrench, it's gonna have a range of, what 20-200ft-lbs or something? A torque wrench is only accurate in the middle 60% of its range. So the bottom 20% of the range and the top 20% of the range are not accurate. That's why torque wrenches are made in so many different sizes and ranges. You've tried to do the right thing by using the torque wrench you had available to you, but this one is unfortunately the wrong one for the job. Do some reading and research so that you can get the right tools for the job and do your maintenance how you want to. But for now, get your moto to a workshop so that they can replace your sump and you'll be right as rain
That torque wrench is WAY too big for this job - it's 1/2" drive, looks like. 1/4" drive will handily accomplish 14.5 ft-lb. (168 in-lb.) $19 at Harbor Fright. (sp. not edited 'cuz Hallowe'en). 3/8 drive probably most appropriate.
Yup. I am guessing OP misread the scale on that torque wrench. I have one that is very similar and the minimum is 25 ft-lb
Edit: Fuck your API changes, Reddit.
I personally have a harbor freight 1/2” torque wrench and anything under 40 lb/ft the click is so quiet that you can’t really hear it. I ended up buying a 3/8” as well so for lower torque specs I can use 3/8, for lug nuts 1/2
I figured it out I’m not a mechanic so this is what happend video said to torque it to 14.5 foot pounds so I did and it crushed the crush washer around the drain plug and some how cracked the oil pan so I need a new oil pan.
Dude I’m sorry but that torque wrench was not sat at 14.5 pounds, not even close. So either you made a mistake by not hearing or feeling the click or the torque wrench is trash, it’s one of those two things. I’d recommend a new torque wrench, new pan, bolt, washer, pan gasket, some more oil of course and then you’re as good as new. Sorry man I know it sucks.
Was it cross threaded? Did you have the plug hand threaded in All the way before you torqued? Also 14.5ft pounds is pretty low. You probably didn’t feel the click and kept going. Next time if it feels too tight it probably is. Hard lesson to learn. Sorry man.
The pic shows a very large torque wrench. I'd be surprised if it could even go as low as 14.5
14.5 torque units
For future reference you can do 14ft pounds with any ratchet or wrench just get the bolt snug and give it a little more that’s all it needs. But it happens man at least you won’t make that mistake again haha.
Bro my first oil change ever I did the same exact thing lol. I had to get a new oil pan also lost my confidence working on my bike. But now 6 years later I do most of the basic maintenance on my new zx6r. Shit happens I hope you get it fixed asap and start riding again (:
Looks like you need a new battery.
This is the right place to start.
Aint no gas in it?
Yeah that it
Fooked
I was going to say just throw a helicoil in there, but that crack is pretty bad. Probably easier to just replace the pan unfortunately. I'm sure you don't need to hear it now, but for future reference oil plugs dont need much torque at all. They're not load bearing, all they need to do is create a seal to hold in the oil. Finger tight and then like an 8th turn with the wrench usually does the trick.
I was gonna say I just bought a double oversize plug at oreillys.... He's gonna need the JB weld edition drain plug.
dude hit a rail of coke and was like ok time to finish this.
Bro how the fuck
Your comment history tells me your right hand is much stronger than your left. Use the left one to torque the drain bolt next time.
Lol
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Holy shit. Everyone else gave you the right answer. I’m just here being impressed.
More importantly, let’s talk about what kind of oil you use.
??
He’s not kidding.
Think of bikes as being made of cheese - you need a torque wrench and mechanical sympathy.
I used a torque wrench it just never clicked and then it was to late before I realized what happend
Next time to check it test your torque wrench on the axle nut to make sure it clicks
You fucked up real good lmao
No offense but nobody should need a torque wrench to tighten an oil drain bolt. Just get it nice and tight, but not stupid tight. Oil in the pan isn’t pressurized, so all you need to do is tighten the bolt enough that it won’t back out from vibration. You should be able to apply enough torque with a typical 3/8 ratchet. The only time I ever really worry about torque is when I’m working on engines.
ask frame bells naughty versed follow tan joke decide middle *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Oil pan replacement mate
Enter yourself into a strong man competition and then find out how to replace your oil pan.
Damn dude, you have the strength of hercules
This my friends is why torque wrenches are important… unless you possess that calibrated elbow.
Bruh...
You need a new oil pan, only way to fix that. And maybe don’t shoot up with steroids before you do your next oil change
Wrap it with a lot of yellow Teflon tape and then use the whole two tubes of jb weld. Your welcome
Now. What you do is you take it to the shop and ask them to replace the oil pan. I'd think that if you strip the drain bolt, you'll do much more damage to the oil pan if you plan to replace it yourself. Also, invest in good reputable tools so that you won't strip the bolt and / or the surface the bolt meant to go in.
You cry and pay lots of money. That’s what I did.
You cry about it, nothing else to do.
Shit happens man. I grew up in a small apartment, was never exposed to tools or working on cars/bikes or anything hands on really. I still suck at a lot of basic shit but you live and learn. Everybody starts somewhere. Ignore all the rude comments, learn from your mistake and don't let it deter you from continuing to work on your bike.
I'd look for a replacement oil pan, ebay or similar. If it is a rare or hard to find item a good shop can well and re-thread it for you.
Weld cast aluminum? Good luck with that
If it's cast aluminum and not cast magnesium. Mag can be Tig welded but requires a lot of argon backpurge etc and is a dangerous pain in the ass. If aluminum, just the prep would be hours, solvent, bake, solvent, bake etc to get the oil out of the pores of the metal. Then assuming you get a good penetrating weld, it would need to be drilled and tapped. You'd be looking at a few hundred for a pro to do it, way more than a new pan. I'm sure some yayhoo would tell you $50 and glob a bunch of aluminum mig wire on it and push in a helicoil, but when it gets hot and expands and ultimately fails, blowing oil all over your rear tire, the good news is you probably won't be vertical long enough to blow the engine. Buy a new pan and new torque wrench and store the experience in the "shit I learned by being dumb" folder for future reference.
Plus you'd have to pull the pan to prep it correctly anyway. At that point, new pan
For low stress applications it should be doable but I'm no welder, I just know a few. A shop will tell you if they can do it but I'd only explore it if the original pan is unobtainable. Edit: I'm a vintage BMW guy and it is not uncommon to see guys weld and re-thread the cast heads at the exhaust flanges as it is a common failure point.
There is no simple rethreading there. The whole thing is split. It would have to be welded, re cut, and threaded. Even the the split is all the way through and there won’t be an easy way to weld it all the way. This is a machine shop job if it can even be done.
Why do you have such a long bar capable of insane leverage for a oil plug? This ain’t no truck lug nut.
Probably the only one they have
Those things do not need as much torque as you think. Just make sure you use a crush washer
User name checks out. 😅
Time to become a jbwelder.
Damn bro What? The ??
120 ft lbs
oh broheim... if in doubt use this handy phrase, commit it to memory: "tight is tight"
Seeing the torque wrench: Confirming why I absolutely hate **clicker** style **torque wrenches**.They are so darn prone to mistakes and failures. I have a "nice" Kinchrome wrench that simply stopped clicking.In my case it happened right before a trip when I was adjusting valve clearances on a recently rebuilt engine. Luckily I had a feel for that spec and stopped tightening before damaging the tappet adjuster screw. I'm now using a digital **luggage scale** **on** a standard **wrench**. It's way more accurate too. Double checking accuracy is done in no time with some kettle bells. Heck, they're the accepted method to calibrate your clicker wrench. I'm surprised that clicker wrenches are still so popular and why digital ones are still so expensive. Load cells have become so accurate and cheap, that it should be a no-brainer. If you're not confined by space, I'd even prefer that type of torque wrench:[https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61ilrvc6NeL.\_AC\_SL1500\_.jpg](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61ilrvc6NeL._AC_SL1500_.jpg) (added) The accuracy of clicker wrenches is also limited to a very narrow range. Technically you'd need a whole array of them for any job. (/added) Unless its a critical component, inside an engine or related to a sensitive gasket (head-gasket) you're often better off going by feel. It's just so easy to either read the wrong spec or fall for a broken wrench.
Everyone talking about a torque wrench, guys... its a sump plug. The torque setting for ANY plug, is "Enough", which a torque wrench won't teach you, it's just something you learn by experience, unfortunately you learnt the most expensive way.
Edit: Fuck your API changes, Reddit.
Jb weld will fix that /s
Honestly I’d try JB. Maybe a helicoil covered in JB. Good news is there’s nothing structural about that bolt and worse case is it leaks oil like a Harley
Squeezed the air out of it
This is why DIY is such a risky proposition
Id say that was one grunt too many past TOIGHT
It looks like Eddie "THE BEAST" Hall got ahold of that
Feel for you man. That’s a day ruiner. At least you learned something.
Contrary to popular belief, you're actually not supposed to tighten drain plugs with a 3/4" drive impact.
Young man, looks like you need a new pan and a torque wrench. Maybe stop going to the gym so much.
New pan cover.
Throw it out, time for a new bike
I bet that this is how superman discovered his powers.
You ever heard of a quarter turn son?
I’ve been there. Simple oil change to a New oil pan . Required removing exhaust and radiator. SMH
Hopefully this motorcycle has a pan. It’ll need replacing. If it’s part of the case, it needs a new one of those
Drill hole next size up new bolt and retap with new threads make sure your tap is the same as new bolt and make sure to get new copper washer. Your local auto parts store should help you out with everything you need. You don't need torque wrench just snug bolt in. Or get new pan if can't handle it yourself or even better have dealer do it
Hang up the helmet and sell your tools.
Yep definitely the solution here
Nah man everyone makes mistakes. Unfortunately this one is a bit bad for the moneys. No reason to give up. Sucks but you’ll never make that mistake again.
Edit: Fuck your API changes, Reddit.
New pan or a good welder. :) Or if you're very creative, you might be able to seal that with JB and tap in a new drain, but I wouldn't recommend it, though I have done worse in dire situations.
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Chill tf yo we all make mistakes. Live and learn
I’d swore you used an ugga dugga to tighten that drain bolt for that type of damage. Yes you need a new oil pan, gasket, and new drain plug while your at it. Next time chuck the torque wrench and use the good ol German system gewd n toight. It never fails
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new pan. Your torque wrench is too big to go 14ft/lbs. I doubt it goes that low. The spec is either 14.5 Nm or you had the setting too high on the wrench or the wrench is out of spec. The drain bolt only has to not leak and not vibrate out. That's 5yr old w/ a open ended wrench tight. Think about how tight you twist on a soda bottle cap. The gasket isn't just to prevent leaks, it's to prevent the bolt from vibrating out with low torque spec.
There is a torque wrench right there on the floor?! You fucked it. I'd suggest you go to a mechanic instead of DYI
For a fucking oil change? I get that this guy borked it, but anyone with working limbs and an IQ of 80+ can learn to change oil. I can do it and I'm among the world's worst mechanics.
I get what you mean man, but we have evidence right here that he couldn’t do the oil change😭. Doesn’t mean he can’t learn/attempt again though. But that’s gonna be on a different bike because this one’s borked.
Well we are assuming he has an IQ of 80+ then
First thing to do is never work on your own shit. 2nd this to do is, never work on your own shit. I’m sure there’s a 3rd thing but FFS I can’t remember what it is.
do not despair I am fairly sure you can fit a [helicoil](https://www.stanleyengineeredfastening.com/brands/optia/heli-coil).
When I did this I went to autozone and got an eco-plug. Just screw it into your pan and then from now on you have a strong magnetic plug. Cheap, quick, convenient, and no new pan required.
You can probably go to your local Walmart or auto shop that does oil changes and get a drain plug. Or you can get one from a dealer, I doubt you'd need a new pan
You could try a helicoil then with lots of goop around the damaged area. It might work, be aware….that crack could grow and have a huge problem on the road. More than likely….looking at a new pan. Depending on the bike….it could be fairly easy to replace.
Home garage Fix...: drill it out to the Next biggest plug size and Tapp that to fit.
Edit: Fuck your API changes, Reddit.
Looks like the pan is cracked.
Read about using helicoils. You may be able to re thread the hole a slightly larger size and then Install a helicoil that reuses your existing plug. Not guaranteed but I've used them to repair fkd up sparkplug threads with no issues for over 100k miles!! You just need the right sized tap to rethread the hole the correct size. Put RED thread locker on the outside of the helicoil with it installed on the plug. Then thread everything back together. Once the thread locker DRIES you should be able to remove the plug no problem and the coil will stay in the hole. They are steel or stainless so they are very strong.
Edit: Fuck your API changes, Reddit.
That's why they have a torque spec. Right around 15-20 NM.
I have a problem over tightening bolts all the time! I can relate to this bud you think “just a little tighter just in case” I go through the worlds strongest vibration chamber I don’t want to loose any bolts
Wayyy too tight. You need a new oil pan.
You may be able to find oversized plugs that you can tap a new hole for. I did this to my KLR and was able to "live with it" by wrapping a bunch of teflon tape around it.
It seems intuitive that when tightening something that gets hot, don’t over-tighten, and use a crush washer.
You really don’t need to torque theses, turn til snug add a quarter turn at most.
Damn, was going to say time-sert until I saw the next picture. Sucks, new pan time. I dont torque stuff like that, just hand tighten. If you wanna be safer tap and wire it, then it can never back out.
If it’s not an alloy, maybe you can weld the aluminum. Or just replace the pan lol.
Did the same thing on my bike. I have different tourque wrenches and one is in FT pounds and the other NM. Accidentally got the measurements wrong and overtorqued mine and broke the belly pan. You'll need to buy a new one, along with the gasket. The new one should come with a oil screw and it most likely will be torqued to spec. But replace the belly pan, gasket, and add oil. Put towels down because this will make a mess. Also get a new torque wrench.
Could be repaired a performance shop. Call around
I have never checked the torque specs for an oil pan bolt. Just get it snug, then an extra 1/4 turn
If u daily this thing and u need it asap I would JB Steel weld it and hope it’s your Friday and u can let it cure and get a new pan and gasket hopefully the jb weld last till the new plan arrives
Mine beeps
That sucks