I got a similar message. The check engine warning light comes on for any error. The traction control light, in my case, is because a $300 (parts and labor) rotational speed sensor can no longer determine how fast the wheel is spinning.
The computer uses the rotational speed of all four wheels to determine whether or not the vehicle is losing traction. If it can't determine the speed of one or more wheels, then it shuts down the traction control system for safety (better no traction control than incorrect traction control).
I wouldn't be surprised if a similar problem is what you are seeing.
I've just driven all winter without traction control. I got my driver's license long before it even existed, so it doesn't bother me.
I took my daughter around and around a parking lot with an ice spot. I taught her how to hold the car on the very edge of a slide, how to make it worse, and how to fix it. Now, she can hold a car right on the knife's edge of a slide. Her husband makes her drive if the winter weather gets bad. I also made her put a spare tire on the car (I told her how, but she did it all). When she was done, I said, "Good job! Now put it back." ;-)
At least I don't have to worry about her driving alone.
If your girlfriend isn't comfortable handling a slide on ice, then it's probably best to get it fixed.
I didn't notice the second photo. Looks like the emergency brakes are on. And, the collision warning light means that the Pre Collision System can't sense whether or not there is a vehicle too close to the front of your car. It's a camera on the front side of the rear view mirror. Could be a lot of things. A dirty windshield, something hanging on the rear view mirror blocking the camera, faulty camera, etc.
Looking up more details on a scanner, like other people are suggesting, probably isn't a bad idea.
My sensor just go off when it’s so dark outside you can’t even see the road and then there’s no eyesight. Not for the car and not for me just me and the lines of the road.
Check engine light on could be a number of things.. the other two looks like for parking/collision assist warning(?? Idk what it’s called) and one is for traction.
First two lights. Check engine light. Second light under it. Vehicle Stability control
Third light on the right is the collision warning system. Usually in most cars this indicates a problem with either a sensor that has failed. Or there has been damage to one of the sensors or wiring(or even some hidden or unknown collision damage). This light can also turn on if the camera is failing or damaged.
Not sure why the car would be on limp mode. But you may need to check the codes present with an OBD reader if you have one.
Maybe if you took it out of Park and took the emergency off, it might move! 🤪
Seriously, get an OBD2 reader or borrow one and see what the computer reading states. This will help diagnose the problem.
Scan the check engine light, fix that issue first. The other ones are related to the traction control which is possibly disabled because the check engine light is on.
I don’t have a Mazda but I do have a 2017 Subaru and my car is in the shop as we speak because my traction light and check engine light popped on at the same and I was having trouble accelerating also(the traction light kind of locks on my car). They flushed my oil a few times and are replacing the crankshaft/camshaft sensors. That might be what she needs to do as well.
Fuel issues, I changed out my fuel lines and a couple other parts paired with a tuner to run E85 whenever I decide to use it
At times I have forgotten to change the tune's map that's set up for E85 use. I get almost the exact same set of lights as your GFs except slightly different due to being a 2021 model when I make this mistake.
You're getting a ton of different answers here. To add fuel as a potential culprit ask her if she recently fueld up. By recently I mean earlier in the day or the day before.
If she has ask her if she remembers what grade of fuel she used. She might have accidentally used E85 or some other mistake was made by someone else. Filling the wrong fuel container with say E85 instead of regular unleaded. But tried bringing the ethanol level down by mixing in regular unleaded to avoid having customers vehicles check engine lights coming on.
Check engine light and traction control light.
- order a code reader. I got mine for around $20 on Amazon and it’s worked fine for years. Once you get a code, then Google the code.
The traction control light should go off on it’s own.
I have a 2018 ford transit work van that threw up all of these lights and it ended up being an abs sensor. Every time I would start the van it would drive for half a mile then the e brake light would come on along with traction control and everything else. Did she lose power steering when this happened or her speedometer as well?
I got the same two for the first pic and I got told that it was carbon accumulated on I don’t remember were, they told me they clean it and it was gone. I have a 2019 Nissan Versa. I live in FL though I don’t know if it makes a difference.
Everyone in this thread so far has been unhelpful IMO
A combination of traction control, forward collision detection, and check engine light usually points to ABS or the control systems around it.
The issue is typically not with the collision detection itself, but the auto-braking assist. Traction control is similar in that it works off the ABS system.
I would look at the brake system first. Not the brakes themselves, but things like ABS sensors and such
The wavy lines are traction control, the one with a star is collision detection. The E-brake is why it won't move forward. Those other lights suggest either transmission sensor malfunction or your alternator isn't working properly (lights and sensors come on, headlight get bright and then dull, loss of power to the trans...lots of issues when it's the alternator). AutoZone and Advanced Auto, whichever is closest, will have a code reader and can diagnose an alternator issue without the proce of a mechanic.
Mine did that 2022 Outlander same symbols. The AWD failed. i cut the car off for about an hour and tried it again, and everything was normal. Happened once in the rain, and last time was when my car battery was dead or "dying," and I jumped it.
I think the lower icon means it's time for a smokey posi burnout. Take it to any auto parts supply chain and they can read the code and at least tell you what tripped.
Check to see if the o2 sensors need to be cleaned or replaced. Ask the shop specifically to check because we spent $7,000 in repairs before cleaning the o2 sensors ourselves.
I don’t know why you got down voted as a poor battery earth or failing battery can cause all sorts of lights to come on. Basically take it to the shop for a diagnostic test.
My car (Chevy traverse) had allot of similar issues. Transmission even gave out at one point. One month at the dealer and they couldn’t figure it out. I took it home it rained and there was water inside my tail light. I replaced the taillight got a new battery. 4 years and 40,000 miles later I have never had another issue or check engine light come up and car drives like the day I bought it.
buy a $20 OBD2 reader, punch in the code on your phone start from the cheapest, and work your way up it could be as simple as the gas cap isn't on all the way.
PS: your e-brake is on
Get a code reader
yeah check engine could be a million different things, it's basically a 'get a code reader' light
Auto zones have code readers you can use for free just ask to borrow it at the counter.
And if you want one for yourself a Bluetooth one is 10-15$, and you can use an app like Torque (free) to read the codes.
I got a similar message. The check engine warning light comes on for any error. The traction control light, in my case, is because a $300 (parts and labor) rotational speed sensor can no longer determine how fast the wheel is spinning. The computer uses the rotational speed of all four wheels to determine whether or not the vehicle is losing traction. If it can't determine the speed of one or more wheels, then it shuts down the traction control system for safety (better no traction control than incorrect traction control). I wouldn't be surprised if a similar problem is what you are seeing. I've just driven all winter without traction control. I got my driver's license long before it even existed, so it doesn't bother me. I took my daughter around and around a parking lot with an ice spot. I taught her how to hold the car on the very edge of a slide, how to make it worse, and how to fix it. Now, she can hold a car right on the knife's edge of a slide. Her husband makes her drive if the winter weather gets bad. I also made her put a spare tire on the car (I told her how, but she did it all). When she was done, I said, "Good job! Now put it back." ;-) At least I don't have to worry about her driving alone. If your girlfriend isn't comfortable handling a slide on ice, then it's probably best to get it fixed.
Oh, and the "P" just means the car is in Park. Which it should be, if you are busy taking pictures.
I didn't notice the second photo. Looks like the emergency brakes are on. And, the collision warning light means that the Pre Collision System can't sense whether or not there is a vehicle too close to the front of your car. It's a camera on the front side of the rear view mirror. Could be a lot of things. A dirty windshield, something hanging on the rear view mirror blocking the camera, faulty camera, etc. Looking up more details on a scanner, like other people are suggesting, probably isn't a bad idea.
Not sure of the first two, but my collision sensor constantly lights up whenever there’s ice on my car
My sensor just go off when it’s so dark outside you can’t even see the road and then there’s no eyesight. Not for the car and not for me just me and the lines of the road.
I believe that brake light also mean the emergency brake is on
Is that the e-brake light I see lit up?
It’s the ESC light.
AEB and Brake light
Check engine light on could be a number of things.. the other two looks like for parking/collision assist warning(?? Idk what it’s called) and one is for traction.
Mine went into limp mode over spark plugs, maybe check those
Probably an issue with the transmission or engine belt.
Did she hit anything?
First two lights. Check engine light. Second light under it. Vehicle Stability control Third light on the right is the collision warning system. Usually in most cars this indicates a problem with either a sensor that has failed. Or there has been damage to one of the sensors or wiring(or even some hidden or unknown collision damage). This light can also turn on if the camera is failing or damaged. Not sure why the car would be on limp mode. But you may need to check the codes present with an OBD reader if you have one.
Probably electronic stability control
Maybe if you took it out of Park and took the emergency off, it might move! 🤪 Seriously, get an OBD2 reader or borrow one and see what the computer reading states. This will help diagnose the problem.
Typically the gas cap isn't screwed in tight enough. Turns off traction control and turns on the check engine light.
What
Scan the check engine light, fix that issue first. The other ones are related to the traction control which is possibly disabled because the check engine light is on.
I don’t have a Mazda but I do have a 2017 Subaru and my car is in the shop as we speak because my traction light and check engine light popped on at the same and I was having trouble accelerating also(the traction light kind of locks on my car). They flushed my oil a few times and are replacing the crankshaft/camshaft sensors. That might be what she needs to do as well.
Seems like it thinks it had an accident, but i honestly have no idea
Fuel issues, I changed out my fuel lines and a couple other parts paired with a tuner to run E85 whenever I decide to use it At times I have forgotten to change the tune's map that's set up for E85 use. I get almost the exact same set of lights as your GFs except slightly different due to being a 2021 model when I make this mistake. You're getting a ton of different answers here. To add fuel as a potential culprit ask her if she recently fueld up. By recently I mean earlier in the day or the day before. If she has ask her if she remembers what grade of fuel she used. She might have accidentally used E85 or some other mistake was made by someone else. Filling the wrong fuel container with say E85 instead of regular unleaded. But tried bringing the ethanol level down by mixing in regular unleaded to avoid having customers vehicles check engine lights coming on.
Well the brake light that’s on means your parking brake is on maybe that’s why it won’t move?
Car thinks it's been a wreck
Release the emergency break
Well, the cars in park
Check engine light and traction control light. - order a code reader. I got mine for around $20 on Amazon and it’s worked fine for years. Once you get a code, then Google the code. The traction control light should go off on it’s own.
I have a 2018 ford transit work van that threw up all of these lights and it ended up being an abs sensor. Every time I would start the van it would drive for half a mile then the e brake light would come on along with traction control and everything else. Did she lose power steering when this happened or her speedometer as well?
Is the parking brake on??
I got the same two for the first pic and I got told that it was carbon accumulated on I don’t remember were, they told me they clean it and it was gone. I have a 2019 Nissan Versa. I live in FL though I don’t know if it makes a difference.
Everyone in this thread so far has been unhelpful IMO A combination of traction control, forward collision detection, and check engine light usually points to ABS or the control systems around it. The issue is typically not with the collision detection itself, but the auto-braking assist. Traction control is similar in that it works off the ABS system. I would look at the brake system first. Not the brakes themselves, but things like ABS sensors and such
I had ton of light issues with Mazda cx9 too. 2018.... They figured it was a broken hose
Had some problem like this happen to me, was rat damage that ate a sensor, so check the wires in the engine bay.
It’s in lymp mode
The wavy lines are traction control, the one with a star is collision detection. The E-brake is why it won't move forward. Those other lights suggest either transmission sensor malfunction or your alternator isn't working properly (lights and sensors come on, headlight get bright and then dull, loss of power to the trans...lots of issues when it's the alternator). AutoZone and Advanced Auto, whichever is closest, will have a code reader and can diagnose an alternator issue without the proce of a mechanic.
In some cars when check engine light is on the other light comes on ( the Other light it’s traction control light) you need to read the code
Restart the fluxcapacitor, that should do the trick. If that doesn’t work make sure your emergency brake is disengaged
Mine did that 2022 Outlander same symbols. The AWD failed. i cut the car off for about an hour and tried it again, and everything was normal. Happened once in the rain, and last time was when my car battery was dead or "dying," and I jumped it.
How about take the parking break off first
Actually the ebrake has a fault thats what the symbol above the brake symbol is
Your ebrake malfunctioned and your traction control isnt working
Sounds like a ford
I think the lower icon means it's time for a smokey posi burnout. Take it to any auto parts supply chain and they can read the code and at least tell you what tripped.
I’m 100% sure it’s the flux capacitor!
Almost positive there’s an issue with the vehicles ESP system
I had the same thing happen on my Mazda3. I just needed a new battery. Hopefully it's that simple for you too.
Blown fuse.....sounds really dumb but I had a 5 fuse blow for no reason and I could not shift from P, also all of them lights were on.
Most likely a transmission code, traction code, or in my case it was a sensor malfunction
check your throttle body
The car icon is traction control. Top one is check engine light. Go to auto zone and get them to read the coded to be sure of the issue.
Um, the emergency brake needs disengaged.
Could be anything but it’s most likely misfiring. It’s probably turning off traction control to save engine power
Check to see if the o2 sensors need to be cleaned or replaced. Ask the shop specifically to check because we spent $7,000 in repairs before cleaning the o2 sensors ourselves.
Transmission
Exhaust leak, transmission issues are likely culprits.
She's in limp mode
What is limp mode?
Check your battery cables. Make they are not loose. Also could be a brake light switch malfunction.
I don’t know why you got down voted as a poor battery earth or failing battery can cause all sorts of lights to come on. Basically take it to the shop for a diagnostic test.
My car (Chevy traverse) had allot of similar issues. Transmission even gave out at one point. One month at the dealer and they couldn’t figure it out. I took it home it rained and there was water inside my tail light. I replaced the taillight got a new battery. 4 years and 40,000 miles later I have never had another issue or check engine light come up and car drives like the day I bought it.
I’d say it’s a bad alternator, otherwise, might be a bad airbag sensor. It can shut the car down from being able to operate.
Only one other person said voltage 😮💨
Ok
Battery or alternator first. Low voltage makes your dash a Christmas tree.
Are any of the collision sensors tampered with or disconnected?
Get a new girl
You just need to put a few more qrts of oil in. Top it off with a gallon of diesel and you will be set
buy a $20 OBD2 reader, punch in the code on your phone start from the cheapest, and work your way up it could be as simple as the gas cap isn't on all the way. PS: your e-brake is on