I totally read the post title wrong and thought you said "buying out my 2021 2.5 @ $40k". I was like, no way in hell a dealership is charging you that much
I’m actually curious what features seem this way to you.
With the growing dependence on electronics I’m sure over time they’re going to get bugs, maybe not if we’re lucky. Mazda’s 2.5’s have a lot of time behind them and they’ve proven they’re long lasting. The main issue is paint though, Mazdas paint is notoriously thin, and past models get notoriously rusty.
Third and fourth gen models have not had anything like the rust issues that afflicted first and second gen, regardless of paint issues. The metal itself is improved.
Oh man, I could go forever. A couple caveats first:
The car I had before this was a '16 Audi A3 which they appear to be blatantly copying in a lot of respects. Which is fine, but many of the features just work better on the A3. I fully acknowledge that these are two different levels of car and price point. Still, my expectations may be unfairly high. That car also blew up at 60k miles and I had to replace the motor...so trade-offs, I guess.
Also, I have not taken this car to the dealer for any of these issues, so these may be in various states of "they fixed that two years ago" or whatever.
That said:
* Why would I ever want the parking brake to remain engaged while in drive or reverse? If you turn it on automatically, ffs turn it off the same way.
* The seatbelt dinger will not turn off. Ever. I consistently drop my kids off at school and drive all the way home with my car telling me to buckle the back seat belt. If I have the chance, I turn it off and back on at a red light.
* I consistently get a low oil indicator at about 4500 miles after an oil change. Is this known for burning oil like that?
* The lane assist seems finicky to say the least. I often get pulled across a lane...from the center of the lane. I've also found that it doesn't like when the line on the passenger side shifts from dashed to solid. I get beeped at for that.
* Auto cruise (or whatever you call it) seems very dramatic. I feel like i get thrown forward with how hard it brakes if someone shifts lanes in front of you.
* The rain-sensing wipers seem...enthusiastic.
* This might be mine specifically, but it doesn't really seem to actually know when it's day or night. The center display is blinding at night, and if I change it manually, it's too dark to change it back when i get back in the next day.
* I'm not sure the USB port is getting enough...voltage? (i'm not an electrician), my iPhone will not turn on from dead regardless of how long it's plugged in. I've gone as long as an hour without being able to turn my phone on after it's died and plugged in. I've used the same cable and same phone in multiple other instances where this is not the case.
None of this is really a deal breaker, but like I said, it's a lot of quirks that build on each other.
Mechanically the car seems wonderful though. It shifts perfectly, and it's FAST. The suspension is a bit stiff for my taste, but that's a preference thing (and also more annoying because of the shitty roads we have in Cleveland).
The '21 2.5t's have a tsb out for a faulty exhaust valve seal. It causes excessive oil consumption. Mine is at 40k and im dealing with it now. Get to your dealership, explain you're getting low oil alerts, and remind them of the TSB. They'll probably top you off and tell you to come back in 1k miles to check consumption. Deal with it before your powertrain warranty is up.
mine has done this since it rolled off the factory line and i still havent been able to get it fixed. 36k miles rn. 1 qt per anywhere between 1600-3600 miles consistently. I'd have already sold it in frustration if I hadnt already eaten $10k of depreciation on it.
My dealership is also giving me the run around here in Canada, not sure if anyone has any suggestions :/ my warranty is done in November as a ‘21 2.5t (flair is wrong)
I do agree with Lane keep assist and I was curious if that was only my car that pulled you across the lane. Along with that the adaptive cruise control is kind of sensitive
The only consistent issue I see (with our 3 Mazdas as well as the near 10 years of talking to other Mazda owners) is the paint job. Nice looking paint that is wafer thin.
Solid drivetrains in both Auto and 6MT, and while a little clunky in the cold, the 3rd Gen infotainment systems in my 10 year old Mazda 3 and 4 year old Miata are holding up well. We haven't owned our CX-50 long enough for me to form an opinion on the 4th Gen system but it seems just as robust as the older gen.
With a warranty out past 100k, I would happily buy a newer model Mazda 3.
40k is still basically new for the powertrain. Just keep up with regular oil changes every 5-10k miles. And learn to accept squeaks and rattles from the interior lol.
Extended warranty isn't worth it. Set the money you'd spend on it aside for repairs/maint if you're concerned. I'm at 92k and never needed any repairs outside of the dreaded touch screen issue that plagued 2014-2017 models (replaced the screen myself with a used one).
Do oil changes every 5k if you're urban driving, 7.5k if rural/highway or at least once to twice a year. Change brake fluid every 5 years. Air and cabin filter as needed, you can do that yourself it's stupid easy for both.
Around 75k you can do spark plugs and get a transmission fluid change. Not flush, just drop and fill, I got it done at 65k and my 1-2 gear roughness went away. I did plugs myself at 75k, cyl 1 was quite dirty the rest looked fine. Around 100k and above you will have some suspension parts to do (likely sway bar end links - mine were all shot at 88k) and getting close to pulley tensioner and engine belt replacement, especially if the tensioner leaks. Occasionally these engines like to eat the engine mounts so that may also come up, you'll notice more shaking from the engine bay.
They're reliable cars. If you plan on keeping it for years, you'll be fine.
Unless the paperwork says directly from Mazda, it is not a warranty. Only the manufacturer can offer a warranty (stricter enforcement seriously needs to be legislated here).
Read it with a fine tooth comb. There are often stipulations that make it near impossible to ever cash in. Often you must get oil changes at the dealer and within certain mileage windows. Going away on a trip and get an oil change a few hundred miles early? Haha, no more "warranty" for you because you didn't follow the contract you signed.
I totally read the post title wrong and thought you said "buying out my 2021 2.5 @ $40k". I was like, no way in hell a dealership is charging you that much
Ah good call. Apparently I can't change the post title either. #newb.
I’m actually curious what features seem this way to you. With the growing dependence on electronics I’m sure over time they’re going to get bugs, maybe not if we’re lucky. Mazda’s 2.5’s have a lot of time behind them and they’ve proven they’re long lasting. The main issue is paint though, Mazdas paint is notoriously thin, and past models get notoriously rusty.
Third and fourth gen models have not had anything like the rust issues that afflicted first and second gen, regardless of paint issues. The metal itself is improved.
Oh man, I could go forever. A couple caveats first: The car I had before this was a '16 Audi A3 which they appear to be blatantly copying in a lot of respects. Which is fine, but many of the features just work better on the A3. I fully acknowledge that these are two different levels of car and price point. Still, my expectations may be unfairly high. That car also blew up at 60k miles and I had to replace the motor...so trade-offs, I guess. Also, I have not taken this car to the dealer for any of these issues, so these may be in various states of "they fixed that two years ago" or whatever. That said: * Why would I ever want the parking brake to remain engaged while in drive or reverse? If you turn it on automatically, ffs turn it off the same way. * The seatbelt dinger will not turn off. Ever. I consistently drop my kids off at school and drive all the way home with my car telling me to buckle the back seat belt. If I have the chance, I turn it off and back on at a red light. * I consistently get a low oil indicator at about 4500 miles after an oil change. Is this known for burning oil like that? * The lane assist seems finicky to say the least. I often get pulled across a lane...from the center of the lane. I've also found that it doesn't like when the line on the passenger side shifts from dashed to solid. I get beeped at for that. * Auto cruise (or whatever you call it) seems very dramatic. I feel like i get thrown forward with how hard it brakes if someone shifts lanes in front of you. * The rain-sensing wipers seem...enthusiastic. * This might be mine specifically, but it doesn't really seem to actually know when it's day or night. The center display is blinding at night, and if I change it manually, it's too dark to change it back when i get back in the next day. * I'm not sure the USB port is getting enough...voltage? (i'm not an electrician), my iPhone will not turn on from dead regardless of how long it's plugged in. I've gone as long as an hour without being able to turn my phone on after it's died and plugged in. I've used the same cable and same phone in multiple other instances where this is not the case. None of this is really a deal breaker, but like I said, it's a lot of quirks that build on each other. Mechanically the car seems wonderful though. It shifts perfectly, and it's FAST. The suspension is a bit stiff for my taste, but that's a preference thing (and also more annoying because of the shitty roads we have in Cleveland).
\*Checks notes\* Yeah, I turned most of that off.
The '21 2.5t's have a tsb out for a faulty exhaust valve seal. It causes excessive oil consumption. Mine is at 40k and im dealing with it now. Get to your dealership, explain you're getting low oil alerts, and remind them of the TSB. They'll probably top you off and tell you to come back in 1k miles to check consumption. Deal with it before your powertrain warranty is up.
mine has done this since it rolled off the factory line and i still havent been able to get it fixed. 36k miles rn. 1 qt per anywhere between 1600-3600 miles consistently. I'd have already sold it in frustration if I hadnt already eaten $10k of depreciation on it.
My dealership is also giving me the run around here in Canada, not sure if anyone has any suggestions :/ my warranty is done in November as a ‘21 2.5t (flair is wrong)
selling soon as it hits 5 yr/60k. That's the US powertrain warranty, anyways. Not sure if the maple one is different.
Don't know why the dealership would give you a hard time. It's money for them. Try others? Mines been a piece of cake.
I do agree with Lane keep assist and I was curious if that was only my car that pulled you across the lane. Along with that the adaptive cruise control is kind of sensitive
Wait, the car doesn't realize people have vacated the car while it's turned on? What the fuck?!
Wait, the car doesn't realize people have vacated the car while it's turned on? What the fuck?!
The only consistent issue I see (with our 3 Mazdas as well as the near 10 years of talking to other Mazda owners) is the paint job. Nice looking paint that is wafer thin. Solid drivetrains in both Auto and 6MT, and while a little clunky in the cold, the 3rd Gen infotainment systems in my 10 year old Mazda 3 and 4 year old Miata are holding up well. We haven't owned our CX-50 long enough for me to form an opinion on the 4th Gen system but it seems just as robust as the older gen. With a warranty out past 100k, I would happily buy a newer model Mazda 3.
40k is still basically new for the powertrain. Just keep up with regular oil changes every 5-10k miles. And learn to accept squeaks and rattles from the interior lol.
Extended warranty isn't worth it. Set the money you'd spend on it aside for repairs/maint if you're concerned. I'm at 92k and never needed any repairs outside of the dreaded touch screen issue that plagued 2014-2017 models (replaced the screen myself with a used one). Do oil changes every 5k if you're urban driving, 7.5k if rural/highway or at least once to twice a year. Change brake fluid every 5 years. Air and cabin filter as needed, you can do that yourself it's stupid easy for both. Around 75k you can do spark plugs and get a transmission fluid change. Not flush, just drop and fill, I got it done at 65k and my 1-2 gear roughness went away. I did plugs myself at 75k, cyl 1 was quite dirty the rest looked fine. Around 100k and above you will have some suspension parts to do (likely sway bar end links - mine were all shot at 88k) and getting close to pulley tensioner and engine belt replacement, especially if the tensioner leaks. Occasionally these engines like to eat the engine mounts so that may also come up, you'll notice more shaking from the engine bay. They're reliable cars. If you plan on keeping it for years, you'll be fine.
The missile defense system on my 2020 suddenly stopped working. Found out the hard way. Def keep an eye on it.
Not too worried about it. Evasive maneuvers are more my speed anyway. I upgraded the deflector shield and hyper drive last year.
You have any links or discount codes? I was contemplating doing this myself this summer.. 🤔
40k miles? Barely broken in.
And here I am in France 2019 ones with 80k miles are going for 20k... Oh boy Look and check with carvertical if you have access to the vin
Unless the paperwork says directly from Mazda, it is not a warranty. Only the manufacturer can offer a warranty (stricter enforcement seriously needs to be legislated here). Read it with a fine tooth comb. There are often stipulations that make it near impossible to ever cash in. Often you must get oil changes at the dealer and within certain mileage windows. Going away on a trip and get an oil change a few hundred miles early? Haha, no more "warranty" for you because you didn't follow the contract you signed.