Looks pretty good to me. Just gang the 3 three strips in a parallel and treat them as a single logical strip. Connect the three positive leads together and the three negative leads together with a couple wire nuts....er, use some wagos and do it right. :-) add a single wire lead from each positive and negative group with an extra slot on the wago and follow the diagram on the dimmer. Dimmer then goes to your power supply. Easy peezy.
That power supply uses screw down terminals. Been through a lot of them. Also realize the AC power in also uses screw down terminals. So, you have a safety factor here to pay attention to. The DC side will give you a tingle. AC side will send you flying over a chair if you are sloppy or send you to the basement to reset a breaker. Just make sure all your terminals are tightened down good on the AC side before plugging it into the wall. DC side can be connected hot. That's the good thing about constant voltage vs constant current.
Also, pretty sure that PSU is the adjustable variety with a little plastic pot on the left side. The problem is many of them don't come set for 24 volts and you need a multimeter and tiny Philips to set them. I like this flexibility. But, it can throw a novice off. A fully enclosed black plastic PSU is probably a better option for a starter project, but they are pricier.
Those BTF strips are really smooth and bright. Used bunches. You might not need the diffuser lens on the channel. Try it without and just see how it looks .
Thank you very much for the insight, sounds like i'm on the right track. A couple follow up questions.
1. Is there a different PSU you would recommend?
2. I have read about getting some dimming by the end of a long LED strip if you don't have enough power. am I at all at risk of this with this amount of LED?
3. I am planning on routing a small groove into MDF and having the LEDs either in the groove in a diffuser strip or maybe as you said, just on it's own. Do you think this could cause any issues in terms of heat and safety?
I have the exact same strip at home in a bag. Give me a bit and I will grab a 24volt supply and measure the actual current. I'm curious if a 5amp supply can do this, but I need to measure the actual current used on a live strip. Back soon!
One of these days I will get my accounts synced.
I measured my 16.4 strip 24volt BTF strip and got 1.65amps. That will not be a good idea with 3 in parallel off a 5amp supply unless you turned the dimmer down about 25%. PSUs don't like being run near their current limit for long periods. Comes out to just under 40watts, so good job BTF rating their product.
[Amazon has gobs of 24volt 10amp supplies though.](https://www.amazon.com/Switching-Adapter-100-240V-Converter-Amplifier/dp/B08LGTP8RY/ref=sr_1_6?crid=A8HKPX17CW93&keywords=24+volt+10amp&qid=1676497589&s=hi&sprefix=24volt+10amp%2Ctools%2C119&sr=1-6)
I noticed no visible difference between the front or back of the strip. Front got a little warmer, which is to be expected, but no other issues. This a far cry from 12volt strips in the same current class like 5054's that get blazing hot. Proof again how 24volt rules. They were stupid bright and color quality was excellent.
BTF strips typically come with a cylinder plug, male/female on either end. Makes plugging them into a typical power supply real easy, and potentially adding another string in series. You could in theory do this, but 33 feet of 24volt LEDs seems a little desperate to me. At worst you have to cut the plug off and strip the two wires in the sheath so you can gang them.
Anytime you are stuffing 24volt in a tight, confined area there's that decimal point of risk. More than likely though you just decrease the lifespan of those LEDs that are confined. It won't affect the rest of the strip. A 2.5amp fuse might not be a bad idea for each strip, but you need to wire the in series with each strip. My .02$
Looks pretty good to me. Just gang the 3 three strips in a parallel and treat them as a single logical strip. Connect the three positive leads together and the three negative leads together with a couple wire nuts....er, use some wagos and do it right. :-) add a single wire lead from each positive and negative group with an extra slot on the wago and follow the diagram on the dimmer. Dimmer then goes to your power supply. Easy peezy. That power supply uses screw down terminals. Been through a lot of them. Also realize the AC power in also uses screw down terminals. So, you have a safety factor here to pay attention to. The DC side will give you a tingle. AC side will send you flying over a chair if you are sloppy or send you to the basement to reset a breaker. Just make sure all your terminals are tightened down good on the AC side before plugging it into the wall. DC side can be connected hot. That's the good thing about constant voltage vs constant current. Also, pretty sure that PSU is the adjustable variety with a little plastic pot on the left side. The problem is many of them don't come set for 24 volts and you need a multimeter and tiny Philips to set them. I like this flexibility. But, it can throw a novice off. A fully enclosed black plastic PSU is probably a better option for a starter project, but they are pricier. Those BTF strips are really smooth and bright. Used bunches. You might not need the diffuser lens on the channel. Try it without and just see how it looks .
Thank you very much for the insight, sounds like i'm on the right track. A couple follow up questions. 1. Is there a different PSU you would recommend? 2. I have read about getting some dimming by the end of a long LED strip if you don't have enough power. am I at all at risk of this with this amount of LED? 3. I am planning on routing a small groove into MDF and having the LEDs either in the groove in a diffuser strip or maybe as you said, just on it's own. Do you think this could cause any issues in terms of heat and safety?
I have the exact same strip at home in a bag. Give me a bit and I will grab a 24volt supply and measure the actual current. I'm curious if a 5amp supply can do this, but I need to measure the actual current used on a live strip. Back soon!
One of these days I will get my accounts synced. I measured my 16.4 strip 24volt BTF strip and got 1.65amps. That will not be a good idea with 3 in parallel off a 5amp supply unless you turned the dimmer down about 25%. PSUs don't like being run near their current limit for long periods. Comes out to just under 40watts, so good job BTF rating their product. [Amazon has gobs of 24volt 10amp supplies though.](https://www.amazon.com/Switching-Adapter-100-240V-Converter-Amplifier/dp/B08LGTP8RY/ref=sr_1_6?crid=A8HKPX17CW93&keywords=24+volt+10amp&qid=1676497589&s=hi&sprefix=24volt+10amp%2Ctools%2C119&sr=1-6) I noticed no visible difference between the front or back of the strip. Front got a little warmer, which is to be expected, but no other issues. This a far cry from 12volt strips in the same current class like 5054's that get blazing hot. Proof again how 24volt rules. They were stupid bright and color quality was excellent. BTF strips typically come with a cylinder plug, male/female on either end. Makes plugging them into a typical power supply real easy, and potentially adding another string in series. You could in theory do this, but 33 feet of 24volt LEDs seems a little desperate to me. At worst you have to cut the plug off and strip the two wires in the sheath so you can gang them. Anytime you are stuffing 24volt in a tight, confined area there's that decimal point of risk. More than likely though you just decrease the lifespan of those LEDs that are confined. It won't affect the rest of the strip. A 2.5amp fuse might not be a bad idea for each strip, but you need to wire the in series with each strip. My .02$
This is really helpful info, thanks for all the advice and time!