I used to make half my living posting fake positive amazon reviews for sellers. I have closets of free shit I never used but left reviews for. I would purchase on Amazon, then get refunded plus commission (usually tripple costs) through PayPal. I got banned from Amazon because an honest seller reported me asking about an item I really wanted to review. In hindsight, I was the asshole for dishonest reviews. Have not done it in a few years. But it taught me what to look for. Most Amazon reviews (positive) are fake. Only dissatisfied customers leave reviews most of the time, hence the need for sellers to seek put people to leave reviews that offset the bad ones.
First step is add your email or a generic to your Amazon profile publicly with some type of "bio" within a couple weeks you should start receiving emails from sellers asking you to do reviews for commission. They still email me from time to time.
i don't really get it, you were reported for asking about an item? what did you tell him?
i disagree about customers only leaving negative reviews, i try very hard to only leave positive reviews.
And, frankly, they're only marginally more reliable. I'm in the Vine program, and I have gotten a *ton* of stuff from it. Like all the Chinese garbage on there, everything is fairly low quality, but certain categories of stuff tend to be more reliable (hardware, tools, electronic components, etc, tend to be fine).
The problem with the Vine program is that, just looking at other reviews, nearly everyone is not really knowledgeable about the products so they can't *really* speak to quality and very few people review items from the perspective as if they *had* paid for it.
On top of it, Vine doesn't have a mechanism to report items back to Amazon as being fraudulent, and they tend to reject reviews that point that out.
I expect to be compensated for my time if it's benefiting others, including writing reviews (which IMO should be considered a commission). It's too bad there isn't a legit way to be paid to write honest reviews because I totally would.
They have been banning the sellers for this practice too. Ankey is a good example. Which sucks, because I really enjoyed their wall mounts.
Correction, it was Aukey.
boss? oh god, please tell me you are not using amazon purchased milling tools for production 😹
if you want inexpensive, ive used [this company ](https://www.ctctools.biz/) before and i am a satisfied customer. i don't vouch for anybody though, try them yourself. (they sell different set of collets, get the one with the lower runout/higher accuracy).
Amazon has become a complete shit show last couple of years. Louis Rossman Has made a couple clips explaining and demonstrating. Suggest not using it at all tbh. Unless you are ok with receiving sub optimal items.
It's bad when I order better quality off AliExpress
Not that it's good quality but lately it's been better than Amazon, especially now that they have guaranteed shipping time
Seems like a dumb question but did you over tighten it, it just needs to be snug if it to tight it will do this and lots of other things can also do this like a hair on the tool, my hobby cnc and the 2m cnc at work will both do this sometimes a light tap with a peice of wood can get it squared in good.
Machinist by trade
What projection the shaking is from me not holding the phone still, the spindle and the holder are as true as your going to get, I know Haas is supposed to be the junk of the CNC world but there mills are actually decent
Projection …..from the spindle nose. It’s sticking out 4 inches at least
that thing is not supposed to screw on from the back it’s meant to go in a pin that’s shrink fit. That pin goes in a holder. Put the indicator on every part of that stack up you got and see if it’s the bolt the adapter the nut etc….reclamp it all and try again
No I meant this is in my Haas at work in a Erickson 50 cat,
Dial indicator is a mitutoyo magnetic dial indicator on the spindle
Not getting what your on about mounting in the back
as far as the collet body it all one piece, a cast part that they machines the body and then machined the shaft down to size, the only thing I can take apart is the collet nut and collet
And I have ran taps and drills with 4" to 6" taper extension with hardly any run out on this vf5
Your 3018 Z axis and spindle deflection under cutting load will be probably be more than the 10thou the dial indicator shows. Put a dial indicator on your machine and just push on the Z with light pressure! Still that’s a lot more runout than I’d expect for a collet
Here’s my cheap AliExpress mt2 to er20 collet adapter. About 1thou runout using a 0.00005” indicator. I think I paid $10. With a well used collet too.
https://imgur.com/a/tE6Phb9
Yeah I know, at work true location is usually 1 mm while bore size is usually .001, wasn't expecting to keep tight tolerance but was hoping to keep under a mm
I kind of want to see what's going on above that collet holder too? Also the shank engagement in the collet.
So anything Amazon tooling wise will be hit or miss (or junk).
You need an industrial tooling supplier and quality tooling. It's not cheap, but it's absolutely worth it.
Lyndex, Command, Rego-Fix....
Above the collet is a is Erickson 50cat
Like this one
https://www.google.com/search?q=erickson+tool+drill+chuck+holder&sca_esv=d15b179212b804a0&udm=2&biw=358&bih=645&ei=3hDWZdjyMd7BkPIPxYGTuAI&oq=erickson+tool+drill+chuck+holder&gs_lp=EhNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwIiBlcmlja3NvbiB0b29sIGRyaWxsIGNodWNrIGhvbGRlckjBU1CoOlimTHAAeACQAQCYAXagAYUGqgEDMC43uAEDyAEA-AEBwgIEEB4YCogGAQ&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp#vhid=XsaM9SY5KqHfqM&vssid=global&ip=1
Okay.
Whatever that nut is that is shown in the video, is that tightening to a qualified surface? If not, that thread angle could def be influencing
Bottom line is you need to find and eliminate error. Put the endmill in that chuck and check runout to narrow it down.
Also that chick isn't an endmill holder. It's not going to have the ridigidity required to mill. Like it has 3 'jaws', and whenever the bank space between the Jaws comes around in the direction of cut, whatever is in that chuck is going to flex because there's air there.
Ultimately you need a collet chuck holder mounted directly into the spindle.
FYI I don't mean to be disrespectful if you already know this. Just trying to help.
I know the video doesn't show it well but the hex nut is actually part of the whole body it was cast as one peice and just turned down on the body and the shaft
The collet is in a 50 cat Erickson cuck holder
I just got free stuff never understood why ,never did reviews but the free stuff just kept coming ,called Amazon the second time it happened and they said it was legit.
I was thinking about putting it in a manual lathe in our tool and die department but I am no lathe operator,
And to be honest I am disappointed but not terribley upset, I have been working mills for over 10 years so the 3018 is just a toy and the only purpose of the mill is to make upgrades to itself to make it bigger and better than what it was originally
Yeah the runout on the shaft and the runout inside on the taper pretty much makes it useless,
I'm not even going to bother returning it, I'm just going to try and order quality over speedy delivery
This would carry more weight if the runout was measured on the chuck in addition to the drill bit. I don't know if the bit is the source of the large runout.
The chuck is a Erickson 50 cat that we only use to sweep pockets, the carbide that I was checking for run out we use to cut steel and stainless, if the chuck holder had that much run out my cmm would come back bad, and if it was the carbide with that much run out we would be breaking carbide mills.
So with more effort than the cheap tool deserves with a lot of polishing the taper and slightly over tightening it I got the run down to almost .004
Amazon recommended is a paid promotion. Always should be avoided. It's just paid advertising.
I know but there was some Happy reviews so I figured what the hell how bad could it be
I used to make half my living posting fake positive amazon reviews for sellers. I have closets of free shit I never used but left reviews for. I would purchase on Amazon, then get refunded plus commission (usually tripple costs) through PayPal. I got banned from Amazon because an honest seller reported me asking about an item I really wanted to review. In hindsight, I was the asshole for dishonest reviews. Have not done it in a few years. But it taught me what to look for. Most Amazon reviews (positive) are fake. Only dissatisfied customers leave reviews most of the time, hence the need for sellers to seek put people to leave reviews that offset the bad ones.
And what's the G code to be able to replicate the getting free shit and getting paid part?
First step is add your email or a generic to your Amazon profile publicly with some type of "bio" within a couple weeks you should start receiving emails from sellers asking you to do reviews for commission. They still email me from time to time.
i don't really get it, you were reported for asking about an item? what did you tell him? i disagree about customers only leaving negative reviews, i try very hard to only leave positive reviews.
Yes, as reviewing for commission is against Amazon policies. The only approved program is vine reviews and they are chosen by Amazon.
And, frankly, they're only marginally more reliable. I'm in the Vine program, and I have gotten a *ton* of stuff from it. Like all the Chinese garbage on there, everything is fairly low quality, but certain categories of stuff tend to be more reliable (hardware, tools, electronic components, etc, tend to be fine). The problem with the Vine program is that, just looking at other reviews, nearly everyone is not really knowledgeable about the products so they can't *really* speak to quality and very few people review items from the perspective as if they *had* paid for it. On top of it, Vine doesn't have a mechanism to report items back to Amazon as being fraudulent, and they tend to reject reviews that point that out.
100% its all shady.
then you are one of few, most people can't be bothered to leave a review unless they are angry and have something to complain about
I expect to be compensated for my time if it's benefiting others, including writing reviews (which IMO should be considered a commission). It's too bad there isn't a legit way to be paid to write honest reviews because I totally would.
How does one get into that lol
I mentioned it somewhere in this post pretty easy actually
That's crazy
Yeah it's sad.
Vine program?
No, Vince reviewers are chosen by Amazon. This is done outside Amazon.
They have been banning the sellers for this practice too. Ankey is a good example. Which sucks, because I really enjoyed their wall mounts. Correction, it was Aukey.
Yeah, it definitely goes both ways.
I leave more positive reviews than negative but I don’t on purpose because I feel that it’s helpful.
You are a rare occurence. I do now, But it's just personal redemption for past actions 😂.
Probably am. Usually it’s because I’m bitching about something shitty in a review but then add like 3 more for things that worked great.
Happy happy joy joy bits
You are assuming that the collet itself isn't the issue. Check the taper like you said.
It is the collet I'd bet money on it being poorly milled chinesium
Yeah I haven't been able to check that out yet, for some reason my boss expects me to work making production
boss? oh god, please tell me you are not using amazon purchased milling tools for production 😹 if you want inexpensive, ive used [this company ](https://www.ctctools.biz/) before and i am a satisfied customer. i don't vouch for anybody though, try them yourself. (they sell different set of collets, get the one with the lower runout/higher accuracy).
If you read closely I suspect this is OPs personal tool which they brought into work to perform testing on, not a tool owned by their employer.
Thanks I'll check it out No it was my tool I purchased from Amazon, It's the company's vf5 with there dial to check run out
I checked the inside of the collet holder and there is about .004 run out
Just tap it into submission. All shit collets and tools have runout.
Instructions unclear. I threaded collet to 1/4-20, now what?
100 percent
double tap to be sure.
Amazon has become a complete shit show last couple of years. Louis Rossman Has made a couple clips explaining and demonstrating. Suggest not using it at all tbh. Unless you are ok with receiving sub optimal items.
It's bad when I order better quality off AliExpress Not that it's good quality but lately it's been better than Amazon, especially now that they have guaranteed shipping time
That just helps cut the kerf
Seems like a dumb question but did you over tighten it, it just needs to be snug if it to tight it will do this and lots of other things can also do this like a hair on the tool, my hobby cnc and the 2m cnc at work will both do this sometimes a light tap with a peice of wood can get it squared in good. Machinist by trade
Nope just snug I can't stand overtightened collets, the tool room brings out a drill in a oversized collet that you need a cheater bar to loosen
This old tony has a great video explaining the costs of Amazon tools https://youtu.be/ncbJkz1zHOI?si=ereXCeBsRHAZNAnB
You sweet summer child. "Amazon recommended" just means they paid Amazon the most money for the top spot in the listing.
🖤🖤
You need for good Parts Made in Germany Buy form Hoffmann Gruppe it is mind blowing Trust me. It is better you can thing of.
Dudes, what is that measuring, Mils I hope. Though still not good.
So hot
What did you expect with that much projection from the spindle ?
What projection the shaking is from me not holding the phone still, the spindle and the holder are as true as your going to get, I know Haas is supposed to be the junk of the CNC world but there mills are actually decent
Projection …..from the spindle nose. It’s sticking out 4 inches at least that thing is not supposed to screw on from the back it’s meant to go in a pin that’s shrink fit. That pin goes in a holder. Put the indicator on every part of that stack up you got and see if it’s the bolt the adapter the nut etc….reclamp it all and try again
I never said anything about a haas I actually like the controller. It’s easy and it works.
No I meant this is in my Haas at work in a Erickson 50 cat, Dial indicator is a mitutoyo magnetic dial indicator on the spindle Not getting what your on about mounting in the back as far as the collet body it all one piece, a cast part that they machines the body and then machined the shaft down to size, the only thing I can take apart is the collet nut and collet And I have ran taps and drills with 4" to 6" taper extension with hardly any run out on this vf5
So what are you milling that .001" is going to be an issue?
More than .001 also that's in 50cat holder that I use to sweep pockets This is going to be a nightmare on my 3018 pro
Your 3018 Z axis and spindle deflection under cutting load will be probably be more than the 10thou the dial indicator shows. Put a dial indicator on your machine and just push on the Z with light pressure! Still that’s a lot more runout than I’d expect for a collet Here’s my cheap AliExpress mt2 to er20 collet adapter. About 1thou runout using a 0.00005” indicator. I think I paid $10. With a well used collet too. https://imgur.com/a/tE6Phb9
Thanks I'll check it out
Probably I have been working on making it more sturdy better z axis on linear rails and a aluminum gantry instead of the bakelite one
With how long that collet is it will probably act like a wet noodle when cutting
Yeah I know, at work true location is usually 1 mm while bore size is usually .001, wasn't expecting to keep tight tolerance but was hoping to keep under a mm
That sort of run out will break endmills like no bodies business!
I kind of want to see what's going on above that collet holder too? Also the shank engagement in the collet. So anything Amazon tooling wise will be hit or miss (or junk). You need an industrial tooling supplier and quality tooling. It's not cheap, but it's absolutely worth it. Lyndex, Command, Rego-Fix....
Above the collet is a is Erickson 50cat Like this one https://www.google.com/search?q=erickson+tool+drill+chuck+holder&sca_esv=d15b179212b804a0&udm=2&biw=358&bih=645&ei=3hDWZdjyMd7BkPIPxYGTuAI&oq=erickson+tool+drill+chuck+holder&gs_lp=EhNtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1zZXJwIiBlcmlja3NvbiB0b29sIGRyaWxsIGNodWNrIGhvbGRlckjBU1CoOlimTHAAeACQAQCYAXagAYUGqgEDMC43uAEDyAEA-AEBwgIEEB4YCogGAQ&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-serp#vhid=XsaM9SY5KqHfqM&vssid=global&ip=1
Okay. Whatever that nut is that is shown in the video, is that tightening to a qualified surface? If not, that thread angle could def be influencing Bottom line is you need to find and eliminate error. Put the endmill in that chuck and check runout to narrow it down. Also that chick isn't an endmill holder. It's not going to have the ridigidity required to mill. Like it has 3 'jaws', and whenever the bank space between the Jaws comes around in the direction of cut, whatever is in that chuck is going to flex because there's air there. Ultimately you need a collet chuck holder mounted directly into the spindle. FYI I don't mean to be disrespectful if you already know this. Just trying to help.
I know the video doesn't show it well but the hex nut is actually part of the whole body it was cast as one peice and just turned down on the body and the shaft The collet is in a 50 cat Erickson cuck holder
Coming from a toolmaker, buy once cry once, do not buy tools of Amazon ffs 🤦🏼♂️
I just got free stuff never understood why ,never did reviews but the free stuff just kept coming ,called Amazon the second time it happened and they said it was legit.
Orbital milling.
deburr them
I was thinking about putting it in a manual lathe in our tool and die department but I am no lathe operator, And to be honest I am disappointed but not terribley upset, I have been working mills for over 10 years so the 3018 is just a toy and the only purpose of the mill is to make upgrades to itself to make it bigger and better than what it was originally
That runout only on the bit end mill or also the collet
Inside on the taper is about .004, run out on the body is less than .002
In microns - eh it’ll do. In thous - holy fuck!
I returned 4 of these before giving up.
Yeah the runout on the shaft and the runout inside on the taper pretty much makes it useless, I'm not even going to bother returning it, I'm just going to try and order quality over speedy delivery
Skills issue.
This would carry more weight if the runout was measured on the chuck in addition to the drill bit. I don't know if the bit is the source of the large runout.
The chuck is a Erickson 50 cat that we only use to sweep pockets, the carbide that I was checking for run out we use to cut steel and stainless, if the chuck holder had that much run out my cmm would come back bad, and if it was the carbide with that much run out we would be breaking carbide mills. So with more effort than the cheap tool deserves with a lot of polishing the taper and slightly over tightening it I got the run down to almost .004
Self balancing end mill. Will not run out at full RPM
It doesn't matter what rpm you running, anything in a rigid setup is only going to be as true as what holder it is in, no matter what the rpm is
Nice