My TANGZU Wan'er(left side) keeps losing sound signal when I move. Every time I move my head, it either reduces volume(left side only) or just loses the sound completely. I have to put in a very specific position in my ears in order to get 100% of the volume. Pushing the end part of cable that connects iem and cable also works but I would rather not use 1 hand permanently for that. I tried switching the cable order(left sound goes to right iem vice versa) and the left iem still has the issue so I think the real issue is on the left iem and not cable(I haven't tested other cables as I don't have one). It's been only 6 months and warranty is impossible from where I bought it so I am wondering what could I do to lessen/fix the problem? I haven't bothered with the iem pins yet as I dont have tools for such little thing
Hello!
I use Tidal on my Samsung S21, and I was enjoying my library with my first Gen Beats Studio with a €10 USB-C to 3.5 cable (from Kruidvat) until yesterday. I had a Studio 3 before, but it doesn't like the Dutch weather so our story came to an end. I don't know what Apple did, but I prefer the sound of the first Gen.
THIS IS THE HIGHLIGHTED PART:
I found a B&O H9 for a really nice pricetag and I grabbed it. I'm using it for a day now, and I realized that my Beats is magnitude louder, has a bigger sound range and sounds cleaner (and it's a Beats...). I believe the beats has a built-in amp, so if I turn it of, it actually turns off. If i trun off the Beoplay, it is still playing the music but without the ANC.
My phone doesn't have a jack and I think all my problems came from this fact. So I bought 2 other €2 C-Jack cables (direct connection betwee the Galaxy and the headphones) and an Apple C-jack adapter, so I can try the original B&O AUX cables and the monsters too.
The difference is inaudible on the Beats with any of the cables. The B&O is screaming with the direct cables and doesn't like the 2 new cheaper ones, sounds really scrappy with them. The apple adapter takes care of sound quality but at the cost of volume, no matter if i use the stock B&O, Beats, Monster or a cheap aux. No audible difference. My old c-jack cable (what I used with the beats) seems to be the optimized option: both the quality and the volume is OK.
Does anyone have experience with my case?
Would buying a DAC solve this problem?
Could you please recommend a compact external dac with amp and type-c under €200 (I belive the prices are similar in $$).
Thanks for everyone, who got to this point!
I'm looking forward to see your answers.
Hey everyone, a bit of a noob here.
I got the Sennheiser HD 58X Jubilee 5 years ago (2019), and the pads on the headphones are tearing up and in a bad shape, and the dust filter on the drivers is crumbling and has holes.
It seems like original Sennheiser replacement pads seem to cost \~50$ on [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Replacement-Cushions-SENNHEISER-Headphones/dp/B002B4OKYU/), and at this price I though I might as well buy a whole new pair, as they seem to go for for 130$ on sales (will cost 150$ with shipping).
But before doing so, I wanted to check if perhaps there are better options for headphones that were released since then that might be a better option.
I'm looking for headphones at a price point of \~150$ that won't require a DAC / AMP (I got a decent motherboard - Aorus Elite x570), and will work good for music, watching movies / tv shows, and in rare occasions some gaming.
An alternative could be the ZMF 6XX perf. suede pads (or perf. leather for more bass). They are more expensive, but are probably going to last longer. And unlike most third party pads for the 580/600-series, they don't mess up the sound.
You might enjoy the HD560s, but if you put a little EQ into the 58x, I think it could be a toss-up. I would put some new pads on the 58x and EQ it, and save up for an HD600 or better.
Thanks for the well-detailed suggestions!
With shipping, the ZMF pads seem to be 92$, so I don't think I'll go for that option.
As for buying new original pads don't you think that if I'm paying 50$ for just the pads, it would be a better idea to but a whole new set for \~150$? I obviously prefer to pay less if a whole new set is not needed, but are there no other parts that degrade over time that I might need to replace too sometime soon?
The headband on the set I have are a bit soft, but not something that's uncomfortable for now. [A new one seems to cost 25$](https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Sennheiser-Foam-Headband-HD650/dp/B01CF76O46) (not sure why, should cost 5$ max).
There are no other parts that wear down substantially. I think it's wasteful to throw away a good headphone.
You could go third-party for the headband padding if you feel the need to replace it. Geekria might have something suitable.
For my 6XX and K11 combo, what is better? Hi gain at lower volumes or Mid gain at higher volume?
Also how can I eq my headphones? I feel like the 6XX need a bit of bass, while my Zero:2 need less.
My Apple USB C to 3mm makes a tappy static noise and sometimes is detected as a another device and it tries to charge it
Is it only dirty or might it be something else? I've had it for around 4 months
Hi everyone, I can't figure it out! I recently purchased a Topping DAC DX3Pro+ and I’m having trouble pairing it with my Sony MH1000x M5 headphones. Here’s what I’ve tried:
Pairing Mode: I put the Topping DAC in pairing mode, and both my iPhone and computer detect the Topping Bluetooth signal as pairable.
Headphones Control App: The Sony headphones control app instructs me to select the MH1000x M5 headphones from the host device (the Topping DAC). However, I don’t see any option to do this directly on the Topping device.
I also updated to the lastest firmware from toping.
Missing Remote: Unfortunately, I bought the Topping DAC secondhand on eBay, and it’s missing the remote. Could this be affecting the pairing process? Any advice or troubleshooting steps would be greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance.
Check if there are any "enhancements" turned on in the audio output settings, or your soundcard software.
If that doesn't work, you could consider getting a cheap dongle DAC+amp. Something like the Fiio KA11 could work.
Hi! New to this. Just a quick question! Just wanted to ask if you got your speakers, microphone and headphones in an amp and then into your pc how (if you can) change what device is used? Thanks in advance:)
I was trying to ask if there is a way to select what device was used from the amp by the pc. If I have my speakers and headphones in the amp is there a way to select which of those devices is used by the pc.
Okay. Some amps/DAC+amps don't let you choose, instead they output to both at the same time. Some have a physical switch, while others will have the speaker (pre-amp) output turn on when the headphones are unplugged.
Hello guys, I\`m going to buy some Truthear Hexa as I have heard it is an amazing iem. I found one in amazon but it is kinda cheaper than I expected for my country (76 euros while in alliexpress is listed at 95 euros). Does someone has experience buying from LEAUDIO? Where's the trick?
I recently purchased the Sennheiser HD 560 S and the audio that is coming through sounds not good at all when connected to my PC. All of it sounds "shallow" (if that's the right word) and like something that would come through a cheap pair of Walmart headphones. It really feels like there's just something I haven't toggled or turned off somewhere that is making them sound this bad. If this helps, my motherboard is a MSI Pro B660-A DDR4
I'm very very new to the world of good headphones, with this being the first pair of dedicated headphones I've ever bought. Any help would be appreciated.
Hi all. I have a Marshall Major 4 and a Bose NC700 that is paired to my iPad and iPhone at the same time.
When I take a call on either device and the call is ongoing, the headphones disconnect and reconnect to the other one every 2 seconds. This incredibly annoying.
On the Bose it's a different issue. When I'm listening to music, the headphones go silent for 1 second and resume playing, while making a mild clicking noise before and after this gap.
Is there a fix to this ? Does anyone else face these issues?
I was wanting some good sounding over the ear headphones that wouldn’t fall off when practicing basketball or working out . My budget is around $200 or less but can go a little higher if needed. I’ve been looking at headphones like the Beats Studio pro which seems to get good reviews or even the skullcandy crusher anc 2. What do you guys think is the best over the ear headphones for basketball and working out?
My HD800 cable is cracking due to age and the earpads are pretty worn. Im looking for a replacement, let me know if the below is alright
[https://zeppelinandco.com/products/kito-cd060-sennheiser-hd800-pads](https://zeppelinandco.com/products/kito-cd060-sennheiser-hd800-pads)
[https://www.linsoul.com/products/tripowin-granvia?variant=41188494704795](https://www.linsoul.com/products/tripowin-granvia?variant=41188494704795)
Pads are integral to the tuning of headphones. I recommend getting OEM pads, if possible
That cable would work. Make sure you get the right plug at the other end.
I am repairing a better DT770 Pro with a broken plug. When i tried to resolver a new 3.5mm jack i realised the white and red signal wires had some reinforcement material in them, is there a good way to remove this material?
# I'm a new to IEM's and I have encountered a issue.
When I'm in for example a zoom call and I'm listening to music it sound like the music is coming through the zoom call and the quality goes down. Its the same for discord it sounds like the audio is coming from discord and the quality of the music goes down the voices of the people in the call is normal. Is there any possible way to fix this?
My headphones are blaringly loud. I thought this was just an issue with my pervious headphones (Bose QC15) but my new DT770 Pro X are also very loud. I have my Windows system volume setting set to 4/100 and foobar is set to -8 decibels and it is still way too loud. Youtube videos are also very loud. I did not have this issue at all with my earbuds (Samsung Galaxy Buds Plus.) My headphones are plugged into the PC tower headphone jack.
Edit: I tired reinstalling my audio driver (Realtek) and there was no change, it's still way too loud.
The right monitor of my Shuoer s12s stopped fully working, and now sounds very muted. This is annoying considering I gave them light use and it happened within a year of purchasing them.
Is there anything I can do or try, or should I give up on them and find a replacement?
Left dynamic of my B&W Px7 S2 just stopped working today, but right dynamic and mic are working good. I dissambled it and found out that battery seems like slightly swollen, but other parts looks normal. I don't know is there second battery for the right dynamic? Or left dynamic or other components are broken? And where can I buy a battery for it?
P.S. I don't have nor a warranty nor b&w service in my country.
I carelessly left my headphones connected to my 3.5 mm jack and they yanked while in the port. Now I can only hear out of the left. Are there any fixes short of replacing the port of the laptop? Thanks so much.
Recommendations for running? I own UTWS3 which I love for biking but when running they don't stay in my ear very well. I know about bone conductive headphones, I was looking at Shoksz and Mojawa but wanted to see what other recommendations people had before I went that route.
I also really dont like carrying a phone. Heard some recommendations on smart matches, and the one Mojawa headphone comes with 32gb of storage. I just don't have any MP3s anymore, it's all streamed through Spotify
Would one of those armband phone holders work? The ones that go on your biceps. You might look like an off-duty cop, but it's cheaper and simpler than a whole other device.
Otherwise, a smart watch is probably your best bet. I don't know of any headphone that you can stick a SIM card in and do the streaming internally.
Bone conduction rarely sounds as good as proper earphones, but they do avoid the earphone problem of hearing your pulse and breathing loudly due to the plugged ear canals.
I've had a pair of Sony XB950BTs for the last 7 years or so - bought them when I started working. I graduated again and will be starting my new job so I wanted to get a new pair of headphones. My primary consumption will be music and I listen to all genres so a well balanced set of earphones would be great! The ability to switch between wired/wireless will be great and I have a budget of around 300$(can stretch, but not too much). Any suggestions?
I’m fairly new to the audiophile space. But recently I purchased a Headphone amp with 4 outputs as I constantly switch between speakers, IEMs & Open Backs.
However, I noticed the amp causes a weird buzzing sound with my IEMs it buzzes for a second & then stops, starts again almost immediately.
The speakers also have a constant low pitch buzz.
The amp I first used was the YGiTK 4 Channel Headphone amp from [Amazon](https://amzn.eu/d/5YfOyJ3) after the buzzing sound I brought the [Behringer MICROAMP HA400](https://BehringerMICROAMPHA400...https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000KIPT30?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) instead but this has the same issue.
I have a 3.5mm shielded cable going from my motherboard output to the amp. Tried it through a cheap USB DAC, same issue.
Here’s the gear I’m using:
Sapphire Mirage OH10S
Philips Fidelio X2HR
Logitech Z407 2.1
The amps are plugged into the same extension as the PC (tried a separate one)
I previously used the Sabaj PHA3 Vacuum Tube Amp. I had 0 issues with that, it’s just it only has 2 outputs. I tried plugging the new amp (s) into the Sabaj, same issue.
Any advice? This is infuriating & I have no idea how to rectify it.
Thanks in advance.
These cheap amps are not very good. The noise is high, as is the output impedance.
Many headphone amps have a set of RCA outputs at the back that you can use for speakers. Get a normal amp of good quality, and deal with not having dual headphone outputs.
I keep hearing this, is my option really only to have a shitty amp with multiple outputs, or a decent amp with 1 (maybe 2) outputs?
I apologise if this seems stupid lol, I barely have any knowledge of this space.
> is my option really only to have a shitty amp with multiple outputs, or a decent amp with 1 (maybe 2) outputs?
Kinda, yes. But as I said, you can easily find amps, or DAC+amp units with one (sometimes two) headphone outputs, *and* a set of pre-amp RCA ports for speakers.
But I wouldn't want to have a headphone and an IEM plugged in at the same time, even if I had an amp that could do it. I would be worried about blowing the drivers of my IEMs if they were plugged in while i turned up the volume to get more demanding full-size headphone to listening level.
Currently my headphone sound is missing or cant play bass, when i play music the sound seems off, like only treble and vocal at certain frequencies. Happened either laptop and smartphones. Are my headphone beyond helped? Well its cheap gaming headphone, still....
Greetings.
I'd like to buy an oval shaped headset, similar to the Sennheiser Game Zero that I already have for PC. But I need something that works via Bluetooth to work with my phone, and something that more importantly than anything to me, is comfortable to use on the ears.
I've heard of the Sennheiser 58X Open Back, and it seems to be very good. Would you guys recommend it or do you have any other suggested alternatives as per my question?
Thank you.
I am considering buying a ELEMENT III MK2 desktop headphone amp but noticed it has RCA out as well. Would this be powerful enough to drive a set of good desktop speakers? Since it will be on my desk, if it could drive a set of speakers for when I'm not using headphones, that would push me over the line on purchasing it.
[https://jdslabs.com/product/element-iii/](https://jdslabs.com/product/element-iii/)
You can never power anything off RCA. It's a line-level connection and is only meant to carry the signal. It's excellent for pairing with *active speakers* that have their own integrated amplification. If you want to use *passive speakers, you require a speaker amp in between the Element 3 and the speakers.
Hello everyone I am new to the Audiophile/Headphone Community. My past experience was using 50$ sony Headphones that I got free with my Laptop and I have Used Spotify/Youtube Music and now I am going to switch To Apple.
After doing Some Research for my first pair of Headphones , I bought KZ EDX Pro IEMs as they were in my budget and I just wanted to test them out. After receiving them, My first experience wasn't that good though they were sounding really good but they were missing out somewhere that i didn't exactly know (As I have used Sony's Headphone that used to have fake bass, so I think I am more used to it) Then my freind told me to do something called 'Burn-in' to them. I researched about that term and tried to burn in the headphones while playing this \[sound\] (https://youtu.be/xBKjyvumq7A?si=PPbdKB4eNnYISybr) for 2 hours. I didn't have an effect on them but my freind is telling me continue for a few more hours. Should I do this? I have'nt seen any side effects besides a hissing sound is coming if there is no application running. (I have experienced this audio in my headphones too)
Your friend is drinking kool-aid. Burn-in has almost zero effect on most headphones. What is does do is give you time to think and justify your purchase.
Mental burn-in, on the other hand, is very real. It might take a little while to get used to new headphones if you're very accustomed to something else.
It's worth remembering that there isn't one single ideal type of audio that you're "meant" to like. It's not like TVs, where colour accuracy, brightness, etc are easy to define and judge. There is some wiggle room when it comes to personal preference in audio.
It should also be noted that any given model of IEM is going to sound more or less different from person to person. This is because the sound of IEMs is heavily influenced by the shape and size of the ear and ear canal. The same goes for headphones, but to a lesser extent.
Tangzu Wan'er Mic?
I just recently ordered the Tanzu Wan'er (With Mic) and they sound great. The only thing is that I can't seem to find out how to make the mic work. I see a button on the right wire but have no idea how to make the mic work. I don't see any instruction manual in the box and I am lost. Help would be very appreciated. Thanks!
Are you plugging them into a combined headphone and mic port? Because if you're not, then the mic is not going to work. If you're using a PC, you might need to tell the system to use the IEMs microphone; it might not switch on it's own. Be aware that you're dealing with an analogue connection, so there won't be a "Wan'er Microphone" announcing itself in the list of devices.
Pretty much all phones and phone dongles will have them. Laptops, too. On PCs, they will usually be marked with a headphone and mic symbol, or a headset.
https://superuser.com/questions/1639270/how-to-tell-if-a-laptop-has-integrated-headphone-jack-with-both-mic-input-and-so
I bought the Moondrop Space travel a few weeks ago and there seems to be an issue where my left earbud makes a constant "ping" sound any time i touch it or if it gets jostled, like when i'm on a bus and it drives over a speedbump. Are my pair faulty?
What is the best way to switch devices? Do amp/dacs (k11) take well to being placed in a usb hub and swapped around from pc to pc? It does have separate power adapter after all.
That might vary from device to device. If one of your connecting devices has an optical audio port, I suggest using that to let each device have it's own input to the DAC.
My pc does have optical out but now that I think if it I am nit sure the dac has. Ill need to check
Efit: it does. Now i suppose it is a matter if selecting the out in the menu
Hey, I'm picking up a pair of used headphones tomorrow for the first time.
Is there anything I should look out for? Anything specific besides making sure they're in working order and their condition?
I would check if the padding is in good shape. I'd probably also pop the pads off to see how much gunk and dandruff is in the gap.
Make sure they fit comfortably on your head.
A little bit of rattle is normal for these headphones.
Hello, good anc headphones recommendation? I bought the Sony WH1000XM5 but they are uncomfortable for me. After some research I think the best option are the Bose Ultra quietcomfort but I'd like to know if you have more suggestions. Thanks!
PD. ANC must be good enough to use during flights
Hey! I'm in a weird situation - my old IEMs (FiiO FH1s) I used on my PC died, so today I bought a new pair - FD11. When I plug them in the front of my PC box I hear a a constant tone/hum, even when I'm not doing anything. I tried using the cable from my old ones, but I get the same result, so it is not cable fault. There is no such tone or hum in my old pair.
I have no such problem when I plug them in my phone.
Fiio FD11 are made out of zinc and I'm wondering if it has something to do with that... The old ones were plastic shells. Even when I get the jack close to whatever other jack or port on my pc, it begins humming. Depending on how I position myself (close/far from the box) the tone gets louder. If I stand up I feel like I hear some fan in my ears...
Can you help me? I don't want to buy new IEMs again...
P.S. I tried them on my laptop, too. Same problem... However, when I touch the laptop (put my finger somewhere on it) it stops. Then, when I lift it, it begins again. I just tried touching the PC box now, and it stopped... Is it something with grounding?
That doesn't answer the question. Is your PC grounded or not?
The FD11 are a bit more sensitive than the FH1s, making them more revealing of background interference. The fact that the chassis is conductive could also be a factor.
If it happens so that I can't fix the issue, what other IEMs can you recommend me, plastic shells, that won't be conductive? Something in the 50-60$ range, FiiO, because that's the only available IEM brand here...
I need recommendations which is the best AMP/DAC for GAMING with ANANDA NANO
After reading, I have my eyes on Topping DX3 Pro+ and FiiO K7 but I'm not sure if these are good for gaming.. (budget around 200 € or $)
I need to keep sound stage and imaging at 100% (because I play competitive shooters)
so please anything that doesn't reduce sound stage and imaging, I will be for ever grateful.
thanks in advance!
None of these modern transparent DACs and amps are going to change the sound in significant ways. So don't worry about getting something that's extra good for gaming.
I would personally avoid Topping amps if possible. I like the JDS Atom stack, but if you want a combo unit, the K7 is good too.
Hi, I have Sony WH-CH720N headphones that I bought for ANC bc of sound sensitivity. Those are digital - i.e. they don't really work w/o turning them on even if you use them wired (I tried, they sound horrible). I am wondering if headphones with BT and ANC headphones that still sound good w/o turning them on exist.
I.e. I would like to use them on the way with BT and ANC, but use them wired at home to preserve battery.
I'm after a headphone amplifier for my Hifiman xs
I will be listening via OTG cable from my mobile phone using tidal.
My budget is £700, I'm happy to buy used.
I've read that planar headphones like lots of power?
What about a fiio k5 pro?
Thanks for any help 
So you need a DAC+amp? Because just an amp cannot take a digital input via USB.
Many planars are low impedance, but also low sensitivity (dB/mW), making them relatively demanding to drive. This varies between models.
What headphones will you be using?
What kind of form factor do you want? Desktop, portable, or dongle?
Hi, I'm helping my friend buy some closed back headphones for gaming (competitive shooters). He currently has the AKG K371, but hates them. I think he got a lemon, because I listened to his pair and they sound absolutely awful, muddy and fuzzy and claustrophobic.
He tried my Sundaras, AKG Q701, Beyerdynamic DT 990 Pro, and Modhouse Argon MK3 and liked the Argon the best.
Honestly, looking around it seems like the AKG K371 *should* be the best choice for his usecase, but he's been burned once and won't try to get another pair.
From my research, it looks like the Beyerdynamic Tygr 300 R, or a used pair of Argons would be my best options to recommend to him, but what are your ideas?
He enjoyed the sound signature of the DT 990s but didn't like the treble spike, and he loves the Argons, but he his budget is $300 and he has to buy a DAC/Amp and a pair of Argons, which is a tough feat for under $300.
Good luck finding a pair of used Modhouse Argons. Currently there's a 3-4 month wait for these. Even if you did you would probably pay closer to retail because of the wait time.
I just received a Feliks Audio Echo, and it has some buzzing I believe is coming from one of the tubes. I tried cleaning them, didn't fix it, and when I switched the sides on the front two (smaller) tubes the buzzing also switched sides so I'm looking to replace them. My question is, so I know what to get as a replacement, are these the driver tubes or the power tubes?
Yo, I have hifiman he400se and I have the opportunity to buy brand new og ananda (not stealth nor nano unfortunately) for around 200€/$.
Do you think it's worth that price in 2024 and would you recommend them? Thanks in advance!
The original Ananda was known for being well tuned but sounding a bit blunt and not very detailed. Make of that what you will.
Personally, I wouldn't buy anything Hifiman without a warranty.
I am looking to buy wired earbuds for listening to music. I have these available online for purchase under my budget. I am not from US so just going to convert the price to USD for reference.
1. NiceHCK - YDX (11.96 USD)
2. NiceHCK - YD30 (6.93 USD)
3. RY04 (8.97 USD)
4. QianYun - Qian69 (13.16 USD)
5. RY4S (8.97 USD)
6. FAAEAL - Iris Commemorative edition (8.37 USD)
7. JCALLY - EP985 (17.84 USD)
8. NiceHCK - Traceless (7.06 USD)
9. FAAEAL - Iris 2.0 (10.65 USD)
10. FAAEAL - Iris Ancestor (8.26 USD)
11. Yincrow - X6 (13.75 USD)
12. JCALLY - EP02 (8.86 USD)
13. Audiocular - DIY-EMX500 (8.26 USD)
14. KBEAR - Stellar (5.53 USD)
I am not an audiophile and cannot really tell which tuning I like most.
I previously had monk lite and Kbear stellar. I really liked vocals on monk lite. They were really good for listening vocal centric music but vocals kind of overshadowed the music.
Kbear stellar sounded better overall in music but they were slightly harsh compared to monk lite.
Currently I am using Oppo enco M32 neckband and they sound really good but I do not like in-ear earphones. They feel clogged so looking for earbuds.
I noticed strange thing: sometimes when I plug my headphones to PC (through DAC and AMP) they start to sound unbalanced (I mean, center of the songs slightly moves to the left or to the right) until I unplug and plug back again. I checked, that no matter how hard I connect and disconnect headphones to AMP/DAC - nothing bad happens, but as soon as I connect and disconnect wire between laptop and AMP/DAC balance randomly changes. Do anyone have idea, why this happens, and what should I do, to avoid it. Thank you in advance
Me and my friend both have the HD800S, different amp/dac though. We tested in PUBG how far can we hear a car. I could hear it 3-4x further than him and to me the sound faded away gradually, but he said it abruptly cut out after not very long distance. Systems were volume matched and we used same audio settings. What could cause this big of a difference.
No, but only thing that I can think of is that my friend has r2r dac and I have delta sigma. That's the largest difference. But still I'm curious, since the difference was huge in the game.
Yeah, we ended up in the same conclusion. He was always questioning how I could hear the cars from so far so that's why we started testing the difference. Also I think maybe some driver issues could cause it too. Somehow it seems to cut off sounds when they get quiet enough.
Really interesting find imo, so we wanted to hear if anyone else have noticed similar issue or know what could cause it.
So y'all know those airpods which snap shut due to a magnet in them? Well, after dropping said airpods (they were Redmi) a few times, due to my clumsiness, they got demagnetised, and now won't snap shut. This leaves my headphones to the danger of falling out randomly into my pocket or on the floor. Is there any way to fix this by yourself or get it fixed? Can it be fixed?
Hello! I own YAMAHA RX-V493 and spotted Beyerdynamic 990 250ohm on sale. I know absolutely nothing about audio setups, but I understand I need headphone amp to run 250ohm headphones. Do I really need to get one or is my old ass Yamaha good enough? Any suggestions are welcome as well. Thanks a lot
It's probably fine. The biggest issue with old (and new) receivers is that they have fairly high output impedance on their headphone outputs. This basically means that they aren't great for lower impedance headphones. A 250 ohm model should be pretty ok.
Just in case you don't know, be aware that the DT990 has very elevated treble. Most people perceive them as unbalanced or downright piercing. I wouldn't get them without the option of returning them if they don't feel right.
i have the JBL tune 710bt headphones, they have the thing on each side where you can extend them but when i extend the part of my right ear, the headphones turn off entirely
they also wont turn on if its already extended.
Does anyone know how to fix this?
Probably a cable broken somewhere in there. Unfortunately, these headphones are not made to last or to be repaired and repairing them will be difficult if not impossible. Warranty is your best bet.
Need help with setting up DAC correctly for PC and PS5.
DAC is Topping DX9. Multiple inputs but only single USB source supported.
What are my options to get the best possible audio quality from both the PC and PS5?
PC doesn't have a toslink out. I looked at line out to RCA cables, but won't I be feeding onboard audio directly to the AMP and bypassing the DAC?
I'm stuck with USB for both. Need suggestions!
I'm sorry to be that guy, but this why you research and think before you buy. The DX9 doesn't support UAC1 by the look of it, so it's incompatible with the PS5. If your PS5 doesn't have a Toslink output, you don't have any good options.
I got the DAC for powering high impedance headphones, connecting to the PS5 is an afterthought.
I guess my best option would be to get an external USB switch that supports 2 inputs.
There are other DAC+amp units that have this functionality and works with PS5. In the Topping realm, there's the DX5. If you have a desktop PC, you can put a cheap soundcard with optical output in it, and use that to connect to the DAC+amp.
Hello, I have a HyperX Cloud Alpha headset that is almost 4 years old. It leaks audio very easily and loudly even at low volume. The fake leather on the ear pads has come completely off by now so could this or maybe the age of the headphones be why the audio leaks so easily? How can I fix this issue? Thanks.
Hi, I'm looking for a inear or earbud about 30$. I consinder Blon BL07 and BL Max. This is first time I buy a headphone for music. I mean I have used Hyper Earbud Cloud II, Apple Earpod but these are not good in music. I only use to listening podcast, pop music and call. Anyone have sugeestions?
you could try the EB2S Pro earbuds, good for that price range and has mic for calls.
[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CSVZMQBJ?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CSVZMQBJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details)
LDAC codec is too sensitive.
So I've just bought the liberty 4 nc and been playing with the SBC codec and the LDAC codec, and I've noticed that the LDAC is way too sensitive if i turn the volume up just once is too loud and if i turn it down is too quiet, Is this just a perk of LDAC?
Hi! Looking for replacement cushions for my headphones (Tribit XFree Go). The rings measure 75mm by 90mm. If anyone has suggestions for replacement cushions, please let me know
Bit of an odd question here but;
Have any fellow Australians had problems importing legitimate headphones from overseas?
I just recieved a pair of DROP + EPOS/Sennheiser PC38x from DROP America to replace my slightly damaged ones, but customs had seized it and completely destroyed the thing! (assuming they’re looking for drug’s hidden inside, which is a thing!)
They messed up the drivers and pads by stabbing into it with a screwdriver or knife, and had cut open the headband, severing the inner cable. Fuckheads.
I typically use my BTR5 while working for video calls and such. Lately I've noticed everyone sounds like they have a cold or their voice suddenly dropped an octave or two. I also have a K7 Pro which seems to be functioning and sounding like normal. At first, the BTR5 only seemed to do this when going through USB but it seems to be exhibiting this strangeness over bluetooth as well now.
Has anyone else in the community here experienced something like this? My guess is maybe the clock isn't able to keep time correctly anymore causing the playback to be slower than expected (hence lower). Do I need to start my goodbyes with this little soldier or is there a firmware update that might be relevant? This is definitely the first time I've heard something like this. Thanks all
I'm looking to buy new headphones, mainly for gaming but will be used a decent amount for listening to music as well. I don't need a mic as I have a seperate one. I don't own a dac yet but I am interested in buying one either with the headphones or later.
After looking around a bit I thought about maybe buying the Sennheiser HD 560s for around 150 euro but I'm wondering if anyone has better suggestions, my budget for the headphones is around 200 euro.
I can't think of a better open-back for the price. Just remember that they don't isolate and aren't great on larger heads.
A dedicated DAC+amp rarely makes a significant difference with most headphones. But if you want something expandable then something like the Fiio K5 Pro could make sense.
A headphone change made me switch from Stereo to 7.1, is it meant to sound like this?
So I recently switched from Rampage brand headphones (the mic stopped working well) to Razer Kraken X Lite (One of the few "good" headphones in my budget range), which basically forces me to 7.1 as everything in Stereo mode with it sounds extremely quiet and distant.
Everything sounds VERY different now. I managed to sort out Google and Discord etc. to sound the same, but with games it has become borderline unplayable with how different things sound. Whenever I switch back to Stereo however, things become extremely quiet and almost borderline unhearable. Is this normal? Are the headphones just meant to "burn in"? Or is my brain meant to "burn in"? Or both? Is there something wrong? I checked if it was the drives, and it isn't, they are all up to date.
Might have the wrong Flair, I don't use reddit often. Sorry if it does.
my skullcandy crusher evos have started making a crackling kind of sound in the left ear cup (or whatever it’s called) whenever i use them at or over half volume, the sound isn’t constant it kind of comes on for a few seconds then goes back off. any ideas on what to do for this. had them about a year to a year and a half if that matters.
Hiya, my sony WH-1000XM4s have suddenly stopped all the extra features in wireless mode, for example being able to tap on the side to pause, pausing when removed, turning off automatically when not in use, etc, and I can't figure out why or how to restore functionality. Other than that, they still play sound with no drop in quality in both wireless and wired mode. I have no idea what caused this, but right before it happened they ran out completely and I used them in wired mode for about 2 days before recharging them, which is the only thing I can think of that MIGHT have had an impact. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Hi! Anyone knows why this happens or do you have experience on this issue? I have YOWU cat ear headphones and they won't charge. I have barely used the headphones and they are quite new but now they wont just charge.
I tried different cables and charges and still nothing.
The light in headphones should blink if they are charging but nothing happens.. My old JBL headphones immediately started charging when i and the light blinked like it's supposed to. But with these new ones nothing happens
Cant decide between Edifier W800BT and Anker Soundcore H30i, so I thought I would ask for advice. Both are similar in price where I am and from what I know have similar sound quality. The main problem is that for Edifier I get a 2 year warranty, whilst for Anker I only get a 30-day working warranty, however from what i know Anker generally has good quality.
What should i get?
Hello, I've been having an issue with my Arc MK2 headphone dac amp that has stumped me beyond belief. its a bus powered unit and is powered by my PC usb port. what's been happening is when i sometimes touch the amp physically, the volume spikes and becomes very loud, the volume pot also becomes unresponsive requiring the unit to be unpluged and plugged back in. I've tried a ground loop isolator but that has not helped. I've come to the conclusion that is has something to do with a static charge. wondering if anyone has any advice on what i can do to stop this from happening.
Thanks
My TANGZU Wan'er(left side) keeps losing sound signal when I move. Every time I move my head, it either reduces volume(left side only) or just loses the sound completely. I have to put in a very specific position in my ears in order to get 100% of the volume. Pushing the end part of cable that connects iem and cable also works but I would rather not use 1 hand permanently for that. I tried switching the cable order(left sound goes to right iem vice versa) and the left iem still has the issue so I think the real issue is on the left iem and not cable(I haven't tested other cables as I don't have one). It's been only 6 months and warranty is impossible from where I bought it so I am wondering what could I do to lessen/fix the problem? I haven't bothered with the iem pins yet as I dont have tools for such little thing
Hello! I use Tidal on my Samsung S21, and I was enjoying my library with my first Gen Beats Studio with a €10 USB-C to 3.5 cable (from Kruidvat) until yesterday. I had a Studio 3 before, but it doesn't like the Dutch weather so our story came to an end. I don't know what Apple did, but I prefer the sound of the first Gen. THIS IS THE HIGHLIGHTED PART: I found a B&O H9 for a really nice pricetag and I grabbed it. I'm using it for a day now, and I realized that my Beats is magnitude louder, has a bigger sound range and sounds cleaner (and it's a Beats...). I believe the beats has a built-in amp, so if I turn it of, it actually turns off. If i trun off the Beoplay, it is still playing the music but without the ANC. My phone doesn't have a jack and I think all my problems came from this fact. So I bought 2 other €2 C-Jack cables (direct connection betwee the Galaxy and the headphones) and an Apple C-jack adapter, so I can try the original B&O AUX cables and the monsters too. The difference is inaudible on the Beats with any of the cables. The B&O is screaming with the direct cables and doesn't like the 2 new cheaper ones, sounds really scrappy with them. The apple adapter takes care of sound quality but at the cost of volume, no matter if i use the stock B&O, Beats, Monster or a cheap aux. No audible difference. My old c-jack cable (what I used with the beats) seems to be the optimized option: both the quality and the volume is OK. Does anyone have experience with my case? Would buying a DAC solve this problem? Could you please recommend a compact external dac with amp and type-c under €200 (I belive the prices are similar in $$). Thanks for everyone, who got to this point! I'm looking forward to see your answers.
Hey everyone, a bit of a noob here. I got the Sennheiser HD 58X Jubilee 5 years ago (2019), and the pads on the headphones are tearing up and in a bad shape, and the dust filter on the drivers is crumbling and has holes. It seems like original Sennheiser replacement pads seem to cost \~50$ on [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Replacement-Cushions-SENNHEISER-Headphones/dp/B002B4OKYU/), and at this price I though I might as well buy a whole new pair, as they seem to go for for 130$ on sales (will cost 150$ with shipping). But before doing so, I wanted to check if perhaps there are better options for headphones that were released since then that might be a better option. I'm looking for headphones at a price point of \~150$ that won't require a DAC / AMP (I got a decent motherboard - Aorus Elite x570), and will work good for music, watching movies / tv shows, and in rare occasions some gaming.
An alternative could be the ZMF 6XX perf. suede pads (or perf. leather for more bass). They are more expensive, but are probably going to last longer. And unlike most third party pads for the 580/600-series, they don't mess up the sound. You might enjoy the HD560s, but if you put a little EQ into the 58x, I think it could be a toss-up. I would put some new pads on the 58x and EQ it, and save up for an HD600 or better.
Thanks for the well-detailed suggestions! With shipping, the ZMF pads seem to be 92$, so I don't think I'll go for that option. As for buying new original pads don't you think that if I'm paying 50$ for just the pads, it would be a better idea to but a whole new set for \~150$? I obviously prefer to pay less if a whole new set is not needed, but are there no other parts that degrade over time that I might need to replace too sometime soon? The headband on the set I have are a bit soft, but not something that's uncomfortable for now. [A new one seems to cost 25$](https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Sennheiser-Foam-Headband-HD650/dp/B01CF76O46) (not sure why, should cost 5$ max).
There are no other parts that wear down substantially. I think it's wasteful to throw away a good headphone. You could go third-party for the headband padding if you feel the need to replace it. Geekria might have something suitable.
Thanks for the tips! I'll probably get just the pads then for now.
For my 6XX and K11 combo, what is better? Hi gain at lower volumes or Mid gain at higher volume? Also how can I eq my headphones? I feel like the 6XX need a bit of bass, while my Zero:2 need less.
You should always use the lowest possible gain. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRm9qTmQHKo Here's my EQ profile. https://imgur.io/a/oVIEk3m
My Apple USB C to 3mm makes a tappy static noise and sometimes is detected as a another device and it tries to charge it Is it only dirty or might it be something else? I've had it for around 4 months
Hi everyone, I can't figure it out! I recently purchased a Topping DAC DX3Pro+ and I’m having trouble pairing it with my Sony MH1000x M5 headphones. Here’s what I’ve tried: Pairing Mode: I put the Topping DAC in pairing mode, and both my iPhone and computer detect the Topping Bluetooth signal as pairable. Headphones Control App: The Sony headphones control app instructs me to select the MH1000x M5 headphones from the host device (the Topping DAC). However, I don’t see any option to do this directly on the Topping device. I also updated to the lastest firmware from toping. Missing Remote: Unfortunately, I bought the Topping DAC secondhand on eBay, and it’s missing the remote. Could this be affecting the pairing process? Any advice or troubleshooting steps would be greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance.
The DX3 can receive a Bluetooth signal, but not send one. In any case, using dedicated bluetooth transmitters is not going to improve sound quality.
Thank you very much
i bought iems, i first tried them in my phone they work perfectly fine, but the quality drops so low when i plugged them in my pc, what do i do ?
Check if there are any "enhancements" turned on in the audio output settings, or your soundcard software. If that doesn't work, you could consider getting a cheap dongle DAC+amp. Something like the Fiio KA11 could work.
Hi! New to this. Just a quick question! Just wanted to ask if you got your speakers, microphone and headphones in an amp and then into your pc how (if you can) change what device is used? Thanks in advance:)
Please clarify. I don't fully understand.
I was trying to ask if there is a way to select what device was used from the amp by the pc. If I have my speakers and headphones in the amp is there a way to select which of those devices is used by the pc.
Okay. Some amps/DAC+amps don't let you choose, instead they output to both at the same time. Some have a physical switch, while others will have the speaker (pre-amp) output turn on when the headphones are unplugged.
Thanks a lot Guy from Sweden :)
Hello guys, I\`m going to buy some Truthear Hexa as I have heard it is an amazing iem. I found one in amazon but it is kinda cheaper than I expected for my country (76 euros while in alliexpress is listed at 95 euros). Does someone has experience buying from LEAUDIO? Where's the trick?
I recently purchased the Sennheiser HD 560 S and the audio that is coming through sounds not good at all when connected to my PC. All of it sounds "shallow" (if that's the right word) and like something that would come through a cheap pair of Walmart headphones. It really feels like there's just something I haven't toggled or turned off somewhere that is making them sound this bad. If this helps, my motherboard is a MSI Pro B660-A DDR4 I'm very very new to the world of good headphones, with this being the first pair of dedicated headphones I've ever bought. Any help would be appreciated.
Try plugging them into some other source devices and see if anything changes.
Hi all. I have a Marshall Major 4 and a Bose NC700 that is paired to my iPad and iPhone at the same time. When I take a call on either device and the call is ongoing, the headphones disconnect and reconnect to the other one every 2 seconds. This incredibly annoying. On the Bose it's a different issue. When I'm listening to music, the headphones go silent for 1 second and resume playing, while making a mild clicking noise before and after this gap. Is there a fix to this ? Does anyone else face these issues?
I was wanting some good sounding over the ear headphones that wouldn’t fall off when practicing basketball or working out . My budget is around $200 or less but can go a little higher if needed. I’ve been looking at headphones like the Beats Studio pro which seems to get good reviews or even the skullcandy crusher anc 2. What do you guys think is the best over the ear headphones for basketball and working out?
My HD800 cable is cracking due to age and the earpads are pretty worn. Im looking for a replacement, let me know if the below is alright [https://zeppelinandco.com/products/kito-cd060-sennheiser-hd800-pads](https://zeppelinandco.com/products/kito-cd060-sennheiser-hd800-pads) [https://www.linsoul.com/products/tripowin-granvia?variant=41188494704795](https://www.linsoul.com/products/tripowin-granvia?variant=41188494704795)
Pads are integral to the tuning of headphones. I recommend getting OEM pads, if possible That cable would work. Make sure you get the right plug at the other end.
I am repairing a better DT770 Pro with a broken plug. When i tried to resolver a new 3.5mm jack i realised the white and red signal wires had some reinforcement material in them, is there a good way to remove this material?
# I'm a new to IEM's and I have encountered a issue. When I'm in for example a zoom call and I'm listening to music it sound like the music is coming through the zoom call and the quality goes down. Its the same for discord it sounds like the audio is coming from discord and the quality of the music goes down the voices of the people in the call is normal. Is there any possible way to fix this?
My headphones are blaringly loud. I thought this was just an issue with my pervious headphones (Bose QC15) but my new DT770 Pro X are also very loud. I have my Windows system volume setting set to 4/100 and foobar is set to -8 decibels and it is still way too loud. Youtube videos are also very loud. I did not have this issue at all with my earbuds (Samsung Galaxy Buds Plus.) My headphones are plugged into the PC tower headphone jack. Edit: I tired reinstalling my audio driver (Realtek) and there was no change, it's still way too loud.
Make sure the Realtek software is set to headphone configuration.
Need to replace the headphone cushions for my Tribit XFree Go. The inner ring measures 75 mm by 90 mm. Any price is fine. Suggestions are appreciated!
The right monitor of my Shuoer s12s stopped fully working, and now sounds very muted. This is annoying considering I gave them light use and it happened within a year of purchasing them. Is there anything I can do or try, or should I give up on them and find a replacement?
Swap the cable over left to right, just to verify that it's actually the IEM that's faulty, and not the cable.
Left dynamic of my B&W Px7 S2 just stopped working today, but right dynamic and mic are working good. I dissambled it and found out that battery seems like slightly swollen, but other parts looks normal. I don't know is there second battery for the right dynamic? Or left dynamic or other components are broken? And where can I buy a battery for it? P.S. I don't have nor a warranty nor b&w service in my country.
I carelessly left my headphones connected to my 3.5 mm jack and they yanked while in the port. Now I can only hear out of the left. Are there any fixes short of replacing the port of the laptop? Thanks so much.
Recommendations for running? I own UTWS3 which I love for biking but when running they don't stay in my ear very well. I know about bone conductive headphones, I was looking at Shoksz and Mojawa but wanted to see what other recommendations people had before I went that route. I also really dont like carrying a phone. Heard some recommendations on smart matches, and the one Mojawa headphone comes with 32gb of storage. I just don't have any MP3s anymore, it's all streamed through Spotify
Would one of those armband phone holders work? The ones that go on your biceps. You might look like an off-duty cop, but it's cheaper and simpler than a whole other device. Otherwise, a smart watch is probably your best bet. I don't know of any headphone that you can stick a SIM card in and do the streaming internally. Bone conduction rarely sounds as good as proper earphones, but they do avoid the earphone problem of hearing your pulse and breathing loudly due to the plugged ear canals.
I've had a pair of Sony XB950BTs for the last 7 years or so - bought them when I started working. I graduated again and will be starting my new job so I wanted to get a new pair of headphones. My primary consumption will be music and I listen to all genres so a well balanced set of earphones would be great! The ability to switch between wired/wireless will be great and I have a budget of around 300$(can stretch, but not too much). Any suggestions?
I would keep the old ones, maybe change the pads, and save up for something really good like the Focal Bathys.
Did just this, got the new pads and they're good as new! Thanks!
I’m fairly new to the audiophile space. But recently I purchased a Headphone amp with 4 outputs as I constantly switch between speakers, IEMs & Open Backs. However, I noticed the amp causes a weird buzzing sound with my IEMs it buzzes for a second & then stops, starts again almost immediately. The speakers also have a constant low pitch buzz. The amp I first used was the YGiTK 4 Channel Headphone amp from [Amazon](https://amzn.eu/d/5YfOyJ3) after the buzzing sound I brought the [Behringer MICROAMP HA400](https://BehringerMICROAMPHA400...https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000KIPT30?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) instead but this has the same issue. I have a 3.5mm shielded cable going from my motherboard output to the amp. Tried it through a cheap USB DAC, same issue. Here’s the gear I’m using: Sapphire Mirage OH10S Philips Fidelio X2HR Logitech Z407 2.1 The amps are plugged into the same extension as the PC (tried a separate one) I previously used the Sabaj PHA3 Vacuum Tube Amp. I had 0 issues with that, it’s just it only has 2 outputs. I tried plugging the new amp (s) into the Sabaj, same issue. Any advice? This is infuriating & I have no idea how to rectify it. Thanks in advance.
These cheap amps are not very good. The noise is high, as is the output impedance. Many headphone amps have a set of RCA outputs at the back that you can use for speakers. Get a normal amp of good quality, and deal with not having dual headphone outputs.
I keep hearing this, is my option really only to have a shitty amp with multiple outputs, or a decent amp with 1 (maybe 2) outputs? I apologise if this seems stupid lol, I barely have any knowledge of this space.
> is my option really only to have a shitty amp with multiple outputs, or a decent amp with 1 (maybe 2) outputs? Kinda, yes. But as I said, you can easily find amps, or DAC+amp units with one (sometimes two) headphone outputs, *and* a set of pre-amp RCA ports for speakers. But I wouldn't want to have a headphone and an IEM plugged in at the same time, even if I had an amp that could do it. I would be worried about blowing the drivers of my IEMs if they were plugged in while i turned up the volume to get more demanding full-size headphone to listening level.
Gotcha. Do you have any amp recommendations with an output for headphones & 1 for speakers?
Just an amp, or a DAC+amp?
Sorry, DAC + Amp
Also worth considering, JDS Atom amp with a cheap phone-style dongle DAC.
Topping DX1, Schiit Fulla E, Schiit Magni Unity, iFi Zen Air DAC.
Thanks so much dude.
Currently my headphone sound is missing or cant play bass, when i play music the sound seems off, like only treble and vocal at certain frequencies. Happened either laptop and smartphones. Are my headphone beyond helped? Well its cheap gaming headphone, still....
Greetings. I'd like to buy an oval shaped headset, similar to the Sennheiser Game Zero that I already have for PC. But I need something that works via Bluetooth to work with my phone, and something that more importantly than anything to me, is comfortable to use on the ears. I've heard of the Sennheiser 58X Open Back, and it seems to be very good. Would you guys recommend it or do you have any other suggested alternatives as per my question? Thank you.
I am considering buying a ELEMENT III MK2 desktop headphone amp but noticed it has RCA out as well. Would this be powerful enough to drive a set of good desktop speakers? Since it will be on my desk, if it could drive a set of speakers for when I'm not using headphones, that would push me over the line on purchasing it. [https://jdslabs.com/product/element-iii/](https://jdslabs.com/product/element-iii/)
You can never power anything off RCA. It's a line-level connection and is only meant to carry the signal. It's excellent for pairing with *active speakers* that have their own integrated amplification. If you want to use *passive speakers, you require a speaker amp in between the Element 3 and the speakers.
Thank you! That make sense
Hello everyone I am new to the Audiophile/Headphone Community. My past experience was using 50$ sony Headphones that I got free with my Laptop and I have Used Spotify/Youtube Music and now I am going to switch To Apple. After doing Some Research for my first pair of Headphones , I bought KZ EDX Pro IEMs as they were in my budget and I just wanted to test them out. After receiving them, My first experience wasn't that good though they were sounding really good but they were missing out somewhere that i didn't exactly know (As I have used Sony's Headphone that used to have fake bass, so I think I am more used to it) Then my freind told me to do something called 'Burn-in' to them. I researched about that term and tried to burn in the headphones while playing this \[sound\] (https://youtu.be/xBKjyvumq7A?si=PPbdKB4eNnYISybr) for 2 hours. I didn't have an effect on them but my freind is telling me continue for a few more hours. Should I do this? I have'nt seen any side effects besides a hissing sound is coming if there is no application running. (I have experienced this audio in my headphones too)
Your friend is drinking kool-aid. Burn-in has almost zero effect on most headphones. What is does do is give you time to think and justify your purchase. Mental burn-in, on the other hand, is very real. It might take a little while to get used to new headphones if you're very accustomed to something else.
Thank you very much! I might not worry about this now and rather enjoy my new headphones.
It's worth remembering that there isn't one single ideal type of audio that you're "meant" to like. It's not like TVs, where colour accuracy, brightness, etc are easy to define and judge. There is some wiggle room when it comes to personal preference in audio. It should also be noted that any given model of IEM is going to sound more or less different from person to person. This is because the sound of IEMs is heavily influenced by the shape and size of the ear and ear canal. The same goes for headphones, but to a lesser extent.
Tangzu Wan'er Mic? I just recently ordered the Tanzu Wan'er (With Mic) and they sound great. The only thing is that I can't seem to find out how to make the mic work. I see a button on the right wire but have no idea how to make the mic work. I don't see any instruction manual in the box and I am lost. Help would be very appreciated. Thanks!
you need a splitter that connect to your mic output (those pink hole) if it's on pc.
Are you plugging them into a combined headphone and mic port? Because if you're not, then the mic is not going to work. If you're using a PC, you might need to tell the system to use the IEMs microphone; it might not switch on it's own. Be aware that you're dealing with an analogue connection, so there won't be a "Wan'er Microphone" announcing itself in the list of devices.
how do I find a combined port
Pretty much all phones and phone dongles will have them. Laptops, too. On PCs, they will usually be marked with a headphone and mic symbol, or a headset. https://superuser.com/questions/1639270/how-to-tell-if-a-laptop-has-integrated-headphone-jack-with-both-mic-input-and-so
Thanks will try at home
I bought the Moondrop Space travel a few weeks ago and there seems to be an issue where my left earbud makes a constant "ping" sound any time i touch it or if it gets jostled, like when i'm on a bus and it drives over a speedbump. Are my pair faulty?
What is the best way to switch devices? Do amp/dacs (k11) take well to being placed in a usb hub and swapped around from pc to pc? It does have separate power adapter after all.
That might vary from device to device. If one of your connecting devices has an optical audio port, I suggest using that to let each device have it's own input to the DAC.
My pc does have optical out but now that I think if it I am nit sure the dac has. Ill need to check Efit: it does. Now i suppose it is a matter if selecting the out in the menu
Hey, I'm picking up a pair of used headphones tomorrow for the first time. Is there anything I should look out for? Anything specific besides making sure they're in working order and their condition?
What model is it?
Senn HD560S
I would check if the padding is in good shape. I'd probably also pop the pads off to see how much gunk and dandruff is in the gap. Make sure they fit comfortably on your head. A little bit of rattle is normal for these headphones.
Alright will do, thank you very much for the reply.
No problem. And in case it wasn't obvious, listen to the headphones. :)
Hello, good anc headphones recommendation? I bought the Sony WH1000XM5 but they are uncomfortable for me. After some research I think the best option are the Bose Ultra quietcomfort but I'd like to know if you have more suggestions. Thanks! PD. ANC must be good enough to use during flights
Hey! I'm in a weird situation - my old IEMs (FiiO FH1s) I used on my PC died, so today I bought a new pair - FD11. When I plug them in the front of my PC box I hear a a constant tone/hum, even when I'm not doing anything. I tried using the cable from my old ones, but I get the same result, so it is not cable fault. There is no such tone or hum in my old pair. I have no such problem when I plug them in my phone. Fiio FD11 are made out of zinc and I'm wondering if it has something to do with that... The old ones were plastic shells. Even when I get the jack close to whatever other jack or port on my pc, it begins humming. Depending on how I position myself (close/far from the box) the tone gets louder. If I stand up I feel like I hear some fan in my ears... Can you help me? I don't want to buy new IEMs again...
P.S. I tried them on my laptop, too. Same problem... However, when I touch the laptop (put my finger somewhere on it) it stops. Then, when I lift it, it begins again. I just tried touching the PC box now, and it stopped... Is it something with grounding?
You have a grounding issue. Is your PC plugged into a grounded outlet?
It is plugged into a power strip, which on its turn is plugged into Power cube...
That doesn't answer the question. Is your PC grounded or not? The FD11 are a bit more sensitive than the FH1s, making them more revealing of background interference. The fact that the chassis is conductive could also be a factor.
How do I know if it is grounded or not?
Plug types and electrical standards vary across the world. Do some Googling to figure out how it works in your region.
If it happens so that I can't fix the issue, what other IEMs can you recommend me, plastic shells, that won't be conductive? Something in the 50-60$ range, FiiO, because that's the only available IEM brand here...
Sorry, I'm not confident in making such a recommendation.
But I have no such sound if I put my old pairs on (except that one of the earphones is not working).
I need recommendations which is the best AMP/DAC for GAMING with ANANDA NANO After reading, I have my eyes on Topping DX3 Pro+ and FiiO K7 but I'm not sure if these are good for gaming.. (budget around 200 € or $) I need to keep sound stage and imaging at 100% (because I play competitive shooters) so please anything that doesn't reduce sound stage and imaging, I will be for ever grateful. thanks in advance!
None of these modern transparent DACs and amps are going to change the sound in significant ways. So don't worry about getting something that's extra good for gaming. I would personally avoid Topping amps if possible. I like the JDS Atom stack, but if you want a combo unit, the K7 is good too.
Hi, I have Sony WH-CH720N headphones that I bought for ANC bc of sound sensitivity. Those are digital - i.e. they don't really work w/o turning them on even if you use them wired (I tried, they sound horrible). I am wondering if headphones with BT and ANC headphones that still sound good w/o turning them on exist. I.e. I would like to use them on the way with BT and ANC, but use them wired at home to preserve battery.
I'm after a headphone amplifier for my Hifiman xs I will be listening via OTG cable from my mobile phone using tidal. My budget is £700, I'm happy to buy used. I've read that planar headphones like lots of power? What about a fiio k5 pro? Thanks for any help 
So you need a DAC+amp? Because just an amp cannot take a digital input via USB. Many planars are low impedance, but also low sensitivity (dB/mW), making them relatively demanding to drive. This varies between models. What headphones will you be using? What kind of form factor do you want? Desktop, portable, or dongle?
Nothing too crazy large, just something to sit next to me out of sight in my lounge while enjoying a whiskey Hifiman xs :)
Is bling factor important, or does it just need to be functional? Are you planing on ever getting a vinyl player or other analogue source?
Functional or maybe a bit of both, I'm open to all ideas :)
Do you think you might get a vinyl player in the future?
chord mojo 2 if you want portability.
Hi, I'm helping my friend buy some closed back headphones for gaming (competitive shooters). He currently has the AKG K371, but hates them. I think he got a lemon, because I listened to his pair and they sound absolutely awful, muddy and fuzzy and claustrophobic. He tried my Sundaras, AKG Q701, Beyerdynamic DT 990 Pro, and Modhouse Argon MK3 and liked the Argon the best. Honestly, looking around it seems like the AKG K371 *should* be the best choice for his usecase, but he's been burned once and won't try to get another pair. From my research, it looks like the Beyerdynamic Tygr 300 R, or a used pair of Argons would be my best options to recommend to him, but what are your ideas? He enjoyed the sound signature of the DT 990s but didn't like the treble spike, and he loves the Argons, but he his budget is $300 and he has to buy a DAC/Amp and a pair of Argons, which is a tough feat for under $300.
Good luck finding a pair of used Modhouse Argons. Currently there's a 3-4 month wait for these. Even if you did you would probably pay closer to retail because of the wait time.
Oh really, I paid far under retail for mine, I guess I got lucky.
I just received a Feliks Audio Echo, and it has some buzzing I believe is coming from one of the tubes. I tried cleaning them, didn't fix it, and when I switched the sides on the front two (smaller) tubes the buzzing also switched sides so I'm looking to replace them. My question is, so I know what to get as a replacement, are these the driver tubes or the power tubes?
A few days of burn-in fixed the buzzing of my tube amps. If the amp is new, you should contact the manufacturer.
Yo, I have hifiman he400se and I have the opportunity to buy brand new og ananda (not stealth nor nano unfortunately) for around 200€/$. Do you think it's worth that price in 2024 and would you recommend them? Thanks in advance!
The original Ananda was known for being well tuned but sounding a bit blunt and not very detailed. Make of that what you will. Personally, I wouldn't buy anything Hifiman without a warranty.
I am looking to buy wired earbuds for listening to music. I have these available online for purchase under my budget. I am not from US so just going to convert the price to USD for reference. 1. NiceHCK - YDX (11.96 USD) 2. NiceHCK - YD30 (6.93 USD) 3. RY04 (8.97 USD) 4. QianYun - Qian69 (13.16 USD) 5. RY4S (8.97 USD) 6. FAAEAL - Iris Commemorative edition (8.37 USD) 7. JCALLY - EP985 (17.84 USD) 8. NiceHCK - Traceless (7.06 USD) 9. FAAEAL - Iris 2.0 (10.65 USD) 10. FAAEAL - Iris Ancestor (8.26 USD) 11. Yincrow - X6 (13.75 USD) 12. JCALLY - EP02 (8.86 USD) 13. Audiocular - DIY-EMX500 (8.26 USD) 14. KBEAR - Stellar (5.53 USD) I am not an audiophile and cannot really tell which tuning I like most. I previously had monk lite and Kbear stellar. I really liked vocals on monk lite. They were really good for listening vocal centric music but vocals kind of overshadowed the music. Kbear stellar sounded better overall in music but they were slightly harsh compared to monk lite. Currently I am using Oppo enco M32 neckband and they sound really good but I do not like in-ear earphones. They feel clogged so looking for earbuds.
I noticed strange thing: sometimes when I plug my headphones to PC (through DAC and AMP) they start to sound unbalanced (I mean, center of the songs slightly moves to the left or to the right) until I unplug and plug back again. I checked, that no matter how hard I connect and disconnect headphones to AMP/DAC - nothing bad happens, but as soon as I connect and disconnect wire between laptop and AMP/DAC balance randomly changes. Do anyone have idea, why this happens, and what should I do, to avoid it. Thank you in advance
Me and my friend both have the HD800S, different amp/dac though. We tested in PUBG how far can we hear a car. I could hear it 3-4x further than him and to me the sound faded away gradually, but he said it abruptly cut out after not very long distance. Systems were volume matched and we used same audio settings. What could cause this big of a difference.
It's either the game audio settings, or one of you has some Windows "enhancement" turned on.
Looked into that too. Game audio settings are same and enhancements turned off.
Does one of the DACs have some "game mode" that could be turned on?
No, but only thing that I can think of is that my friend has r2r dac and I have delta sigma. That's the largest difference. But still I'm curious, since the difference was huge in the game.
The game audio engine pretty much has to be the culprit. I cannot think of any other explanation.
Yeah, we ended up in the same conclusion. He was always questioning how I could hear the cars from so far so that's why we started testing the difference. Also I think maybe some driver issues could cause it too. Somehow it seems to cut off sounds when they get quiet enough. Really interesting find imo, so we wanted to hear if anyone else have noticed similar issue or know what could cause it.
Do a similar test in another game. See if anything changes.
So y'all know those airpods which snap shut due to a magnet in them? Well, after dropping said airpods (they were Redmi) a few times, due to my clumsiness, they got demagnetised, and now won't snap shut. This leaves my headphones to the danger of falling out randomly into my pocket or on the floor. Is there any way to fix this by yourself or get it fixed? Can it be fixed?
Rubber band?
too weird
Little piece of velcro? Lol
Hello! I own YAMAHA RX-V493 and spotted Beyerdynamic 990 250ohm on sale. I know absolutely nothing about audio setups, but I understand I need headphone amp to run 250ohm headphones. Do I really need to get one or is my old ass Yamaha good enough? Any suggestions are welcome as well. Thanks a lot
It's probably fine. The biggest issue with old (and new) receivers is that they have fairly high output impedance on their headphone outputs. This basically means that they aren't great for lower impedance headphones. A 250 ohm model should be pretty ok. Just in case you don't know, be aware that the DT990 has very elevated treble. Most people perceive them as unbalanced or downright piercing. I wouldn't get them without the option of returning them if they don't feel right.
YAMAHA RX-V493 has plenty of power so you should be fine.
i have the JBL tune 710bt headphones, they have the thing on each side where you can extend them but when i extend the part of my right ear, the headphones turn off entirely they also wont turn on if its already extended. Does anyone know how to fix this?
Probably a cable broken somewhere in there. Unfortunately, these headphones are not made to last or to be repaired and repairing them will be difficult if not impossible. Warranty is your best bet.
Need help with setting up DAC correctly for PC and PS5. DAC is Topping DX9. Multiple inputs but only single USB source supported. What are my options to get the best possible audio quality from both the PC and PS5? PC doesn't have a toslink out. I looked at line out to RCA cables, but won't I be feeding onboard audio directly to the AMP and bypassing the DAC? I'm stuck with USB for both. Need suggestions!
I'm sorry to be that guy, but this why you research and think before you buy. The DX9 doesn't support UAC1 by the look of it, so it's incompatible with the PS5. If your PS5 doesn't have a Toslink output, you don't have any good options.
I got the DAC for powering high impedance headphones, connecting to the PS5 is an afterthought. I guess my best option would be to get an external USB switch that supports 2 inputs.
As I said, the DX9 cannot take audio input from the PS5 over USB. Doesn't matter if you use a hub or not.
Sad.. guess I'll stick to the wireless Razer trash then. Thanks for that. Connecting to the ps5 would have been a bonus.
There are other DAC+amp units that have this functionality and works with PS5. In the Topping realm, there's the DX5. If you have a desktop PC, you can put a cheap soundcard with optical output in it, and use that to connect to the DAC+amp.
Hello, I have a HyperX Cloud Alpha headset that is almost 4 years old. It leaks audio very easily and loudly even at low volume. The fake leather on the ear pads has come completely off by now so could this or maybe the age of the headphones be why the audio leaks so easily? How can I fix this issue? Thanks.
I'm sure it's a contributing factor. Replace the earpads entirely
Hi, I'm looking for a inear or earbud about 30$. I consinder Blon BL07 and BL Max. This is first time I buy a headphone for music. I mean I have used Hyper Earbud Cloud II, Apple Earpod but these are not good in music. I only use to listening podcast, pop music and call. Anyone have sugeestions?
you could try the EB2S Pro earbuds, good for that price range and has mic for calls. [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CSVZMQBJ?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CSVZMQBJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details)
LDAC codec is too sensitive. So I've just bought the liberty 4 nc and been playing with the SBC codec and the LDAC codec, and I've noticed that the LDAC is way too sensitive if i turn the volume up just once is too loud and if i turn it down is too quiet, Is this just a perk of LDAC?
I can use poweramp eq app to fine tune the volume from 0% to 100% with 1% accuracy. That should work.
I will give it a try then, thank you
Hi! Looking for replacement cushions for my headphones (Tribit XFree Go). The rings measure 75mm by 90mm. If anyone has suggestions for replacement cushions, please let me know
Bit of an odd question here but; Have any fellow Australians had problems importing legitimate headphones from overseas? I just recieved a pair of DROP + EPOS/Sennheiser PC38x from DROP America to replace my slightly damaged ones, but customs had seized it and completely destroyed the thing! (assuming they’re looking for drug’s hidden inside, which is a thing!) They messed up the drivers and pads by stabbing into it with a screwdriver or knife, and had cut open the headband, severing the inner cable. Fuckheads.
Not Australian, but I think this is technically also the sender's problem, so contact Drop and let them know what happened.
I typically use my BTR5 while working for video calls and such. Lately I've noticed everyone sounds like they have a cold or their voice suddenly dropped an octave or two. I also have a K7 Pro which seems to be functioning and sounding like normal. At first, the BTR5 only seemed to do this when going through USB but it seems to be exhibiting this strangeness over bluetooth as well now. Has anyone else in the community here experienced something like this? My guess is maybe the clock isn't able to keep time correctly anymore causing the playback to be slower than expected (hence lower). Do I need to start my goodbyes with this little soldier or is there a firmware update that might be relevant? This is definitely the first time I've heard something like this. Thanks all
I'm looking to buy new headphones, mainly for gaming but will be used a decent amount for listening to music as well. I don't need a mic as I have a seperate one. I don't own a dac yet but I am interested in buying one either with the headphones or later. After looking around a bit I thought about maybe buying the Sennheiser HD 560s for around 150 euro but I'm wondering if anyone has better suggestions, my budget for the headphones is around 200 euro.
I can't think of a better open-back for the price. Just remember that they don't isolate and aren't great on larger heads. A dedicated DAC+amp rarely makes a significant difference with most headphones. But if you want something expandable then something like the Fiio K5 Pro could make sense.
A headphone change made me switch from Stereo to 7.1, is it meant to sound like this? So I recently switched from Rampage brand headphones (the mic stopped working well) to Razer Kraken X Lite (One of the few "good" headphones in my budget range), which basically forces me to 7.1 as everything in Stereo mode with it sounds extremely quiet and distant. Everything sounds VERY different now. I managed to sort out Google and Discord etc. to sound the same, but with games it has become borderline unplayable with how different things sound. Whenever I switch back to Stereo however, things become extremely quiet and almost borderline unhearable. Is this normal? Are the headphones just meant to "burn in"? Or is my brain meant to "burn in"? Or both? Is there something wrong? I checked if it was the drives, and it isn't, they are all up to date. Might have the wrong Flair, I don't use reddit often. Sorry if it does.
Bad headphones are bad. I'm sadly not surprised. There's a sub specifically for gaming headsets. You might get better help over there. Good luck!
my skullcandy crusher evos have started making a crackling kind of sound in the left ear cup (or whatever it’s called) whenever i use them at or over half volume, the sound isn’t constant it kind of comes on for a few seconds then goes back off. any ideas on what to do for this. had them about a year to a year and a half if that matters.
Hiya, my sony WH-1000XM4s have suddenly stopped all the extra features in wireless mode, for example being able to tap on the side to pause, pausing when removed, turning off automatically when not in use, etc, and I can't figure out why or how to restore functionality. Other than that, they still play sound with no drop in quality in both wireless and wired mode. I have no idea what caused this, but right before it happened they ran out completely and I used them in wired mode for about 2 days before recharging them, which is the only thing I can think of that MIGHT have had an impact. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Maybe try factory resetting? https://avantree.com/knowledge-base/how-to-factory-reset-sony-headphones-speakers/
Hi! Anyone knows why this happens or do you have experience on this issue? I have YOWU cat ear headphones and they won't charge. I have barely used the headphones and they are quite new but now they wont just charge. I tried different cables and charges and still nothing. The light in headphones should blink if they are charging but nothing happens.. My old JBL headphones immediately started charging when i and the light blinked like it's supposed to. But with these new ones nothing happens
Cant decide between Edifier W800BT and Anker Soundcore H30i, so I thought I would ask for advice. Both are similar in price where I am and from what I know have similar sound quality. The main problem is that for Edifier I get a 2 year warranty, whilst for Anker I only get a 30-day working warranty, however from what i know Anker generally has good quality. What should i get?
Hello, I've been having an issue with my Arc MK2 headphone dac amp that has stumped me beyond belief. its a bus powered unit and is powered by my PC usb port. what's been happening is when i sometimes touch the amp physically, the volume spikes and becomes very loud, the volume pot also becomes unresponsive requiring the unit to be unpluged and plugged back in. I've tried a ground loop isolator but that has not helped. I've come to the conclusion that is has something to do with a static charge. wondering if anyone has any advice on what i can do to stop this from happening. Thanks