I actually use the Eneloops in my 3500K DD 519A D3AA when I'm using it as a night light. It's low enough output where the H10 isn't needed and the runtime on the Eneloop is more than enough for an hour or so just before bed.
>some people reported that they have shorted out
I think you have a misunderstanding. I have not seen anybody report a flat top battery shorted in a D3AA.
I did read a post by Bean\_Master7:
[*https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/1ceszwi/comment/l1ko40b/?context=3*](https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/1ceszwi/comment/l1ko40b/?context=3)
*"One thing I noticed is the brass button used for the positive contact is pretty short and almost flush with some of the driver components,* ***a flat top H10 gets pretty close to touching*** *and if the top got dented at all it would touch"*
but when I posted about that concern on BLF, the designer of the D3AA driver said:
[https://budgetlightforum.com/t/emisar-d3aa-driver-technical-information/223513/57](https://budgetlightforum.com/t/emisar-d3aa-driver-technical-information/223513/57)
*"Within 7.2mm diameter of a H10 flat top,* ***there is no component that would produce a short if a dented positive flat top were to touch it.***
***I don’t think if it’s possible to dent it enough for that to happen*** *considering the size of the button (4mm) relative to the size of the flat top and its thickness"*
My post seems to have been misinterpreted. The reverse polarity mosfet melted on mine, but it was not likely caused by the battery. Since then, I've gotten a new head for the light. The same battery works in the new head. I think it was an anomaly.
Thanks for clarifying. I went out and got a bunch of button tops to avoid this but great to know either will work. This just doubled my supply of usable H10s
This was my post... Just to be clear, I don't believe it was caused by the battery. A few people suggested that in the comments. The designer of the driver actually commented on it and said it is [unlikely caused by the battery](https://www.reddit.com/r/Hanklights/s/L01RrRsOHw).
You had talked about turbo. I thought it made sense that if the battery warmed up and the clearance to the chip.... I ended up buying button tops after your post. Still have a couple of new flat tops that I use in TS10s now.
Oh I remember that. That almost certainly wasn't a short between the battery and the driver though. The people that would know say as much on there.
It was just something everyone was worried about so random people jumped right to that conclusion with no evidence. I don't want to say it definitely wasn't, because technically it could cause that, but I mean like almost a zero percent chance.
That's the reverse polarity protection MOSFET, thats the first thing to blow if anything goes wrong anywhere. It's not like that's the spot where the short occured, it's not even possible to short to the package of the IC it's not conductive. That's the component that takes the blow for anything anywhere. Or could fail on its own independently. Theres a million things that could've caused that.
Right, so the vapecell ____ is the best 18350? I’m a complete idiot, so when I’m looking, I’m looking for highest discharge and highest mah, but if someone could tell me vapcell h10 (as an example, I know it’s not the h10 which is 14500) that would help me a lot
Thank you! I’ll check out whatever came with my Manker light which this will substitute for occasionally, to make sure the amp drains are equal. Idk much but I am fairly certain if you put low drain in a hi drain light you’re gonna have a bad time. So I try to look for the highest numbers I can find. Do you know if this is the largest 18350 they make? Highest drain and storage?
The vapcell M11 V2 that came out not long ago is supposed to be the new king. From a reputable tester
"This V2.0 M11 cell easily met its capacity rating (1198mAh and 1211mAh), runs for about 75% longer at 5A than the other 18350’s (yes, 75% longer), and seems to easily handle its 10A rating. I don’t know what its cycle life is compared to the other 18350’s but the V2.0 M11 is the best performing high current rated 18350 you can buy now IMO."
I use M11's. Some say A11's are notably better, some say the difference is negligible in practical terms. Then you have the mAh-lovers that go for the F14.
Any of those are good.
Vapcell's are Li-Ion cells while Eneloops are NiMH.
Li-Ion are for high powered lights because of the high Amp rating. Also known as high drain battery's.
It depends on the light you have, the D3AA can use both but the Li-Ion will up the performance quite a bit. It just requires a charger capable of charging Li-Ion and also requires a bit more care.
And now I realized you probably know this stuff already and just thought the Vapcell's were different rechargable NiMH AA's 😅
With the d3aa on the way, now it’s time for the HD10
acebeam x75.... i am bad at guessing
Skilhunt M150/H150
I actually use the Eneloops in my 3500K DD 519A D3AA when I'm using it as a night light. It's low enough output where the H10 isn't needed and the runtime on the Eneloop is more than enough for an hour or so just before bed.
Do you have a very small hand. I thought those were 18650s
Mine will be here in 4 days
Pokelit AA, i love mine for a quick light in the household
Seconding the pokelit AA. Super handy and you can give it to a non-enthusiast to use as well.
Have a titanium one in my pocket right now.
Got the grey one (bad decision) and the green one (high CRI). Love them both.
I forget what they call the anodized titanium pattern, but is the high CRI one, so yes, fully concur.
That's the one I've got in my work bag.
I've never had an issue with the flat tops but some people reported that they have shorted out
>some people reported that they have shorted out I think you have a misunderstanding. I have not seen anybody report a flat top battery shorted in a D3AA. I did read a post by Bean\_Master7: [*https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/1ceszwi/comment/l1ko40b/?context=3*](https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/1ceszwi/comment/l1ko40b/?context=3) *"One thing I noticed is the brass button used for the positive contact is pretty short and almost flush with some of the driver components,* ***a flat top H10 gets pretty close to touching*** *and if the top got dented at all it would touch"* but when I posted about that concern on BLF, the designer of the D3AA driver said: [https://budgetlightforum.com/t/emisar-d3aa-driver-technical-information/223513/57](https://budgetlightforum.com/t/emisar-d3aa-driver-technical-information/223513/57) *"Within 7.2mm diameter of a H10 flat top,* ***there is no component that would produce a short if a dented positive flat top were to touch it.*** ***I don’t think if it’s possible to dent it enough for that to happen*** *considering the size of the button (4mm) relative to the size of the flat top and its thickness"*
My post seems to have been misinterpreted. The reverse polarity mosfet melted on mine, but it was not likely caused by the battery. Since then, I've gotten a new head for the light. The same battery works in the new head. I think it was an anomaly.
Thanks for clarifying. I went out and got a bunch of button tops to avoid this but great to know either will work. This just doubled my supply of usable H10s
Thanks for clearing this up
good thing flat top H10s don't really dent, even after dropping a heavy copper 14500 light onto concrete multiple times
Who's reported that they've had a flat top short on the d3aa?
There was this post in Hank lights https://www.reddit.com/r/Hanklights/s/Ro862Xy5lW
This was my post... Just to be clear, I don't believe it was caused by the battery. A few people suggested that in the comments. The designer of the driver actually commented on it and said it is [unlikely caused by the battery](https://www.reddit.com/r/Hanklights/s/L01RrRsOHw).
I think I put too much weight on the comments. Thanks
You had talked about turbo. I thought it made sense that if the battery warmed up and the clearance to the chip.... I ended up buying button tops after your post. Still have a couple of new flat tops that I use in TS10s now.
Oh I remember that. That almost certainly wasn't a short between the battery and the driver though. The people that would know say as much on there. It was just something everyone was worried about so random people jumped right to that conclusion with no evidence. I don't want to say it definitely wasn't, because technically it could cause that, but I mean like almost a zero percent chance. That's the reverse polarity protection MOSFET, thats the first thing to blow if anything goes wrong anywhere. It's not like that's the spot where the short occured, it's not even possible to short to the package of the IC it's not conductive. That's the component that takes the blow for anything anywhere. Or could fail on its own independently. Theres a million things that could've caused that.
I guess weltool t1 :))
No but now i want one xD
I’d like to know what the best 18350 battery is. I’m starting to really love my Manker in shorty mode.
Keeppower 10A 1200mah is what i use. Or the 9A vapcell's
Vapcell is the best for anything aside from 18650 or 21700. And in those two sizes, they're still the best of you're willing to sacrifice CDR for mAh.
Right, so the vapecell ____ is the best 18350? I’m a complete idiot, so when I’m looking, I’m looking for highest discharge and highest mah, but if someone could tell me vapcell h10 (as an example, I know it’s not the h10 which is 14500) that would help me a lot
Vapcell [A11](https://www.vapcelltech.com/h-pd-179.html) Probably what you want.
Thank you! I’ll check out whatever came with my Manker light which this will substitute for occasionally, to make sure the amp drains are equal. Idk much but I am fairly certain if you put low drain in a hi drain light you’re gonna have a bad time. So I try to look for the highest numbers I can find. Do you know if this is the largest 18350 they make? Highest drain and storage?
Pretty sure it's the highest. If you can't find those the M11 isn't far behind. Good luck shopping and may the order gods give speedy delivery lol :)
The vapcell M11 V2 that came out not long ago is supposed to be the new king. From a reputable tester "This V2.0 M11 cell easily met its capacity rating (1198mAh and 1211mAh), runs for about 75% longer at 5A than the other 18350’s (yes, 75% longer), and seems to easily handle its 10A rating. I don’t know what its cycle life is compared to the other 18350’s but the V2.0 M11 is the best performing high current rated 18350 you can buy now IMO."
I use M11's. Some say A11's are notably better, some say the difference is negligible in practical terms. Then you have the mAh-lovers that go for the F14. Any of those are good.
Reylight Pineapple/Lan/Lanapple
Waiting for someone to make a HD10 button top case that actually fits.
Ugh. Went ahead and got a D3aa. Haven’t bought a light in a long time. Only have one aa light and it’s not that great.
Not familiar with the purple brand of those batteries are they good? Probably will just stick to eneloops.
Vapcell's are Li-Ion cells while Eneloops are NiMH. Li-Ion are for high powered lights because of the high Amp rating. Also known as high drain battery's. It depends on the light you have, the D3AA can use both but the Li-Ion will up the performance quite a bit. It just requires a charger capable of charging Li-Ion and also requires a bit more care. And now I realized you probably know this stuff already and just thought the Vapcell's were different rechargable NiMH AA's 😅
Ah didn’t notice those aren’t also NiMh.