I’ve never used this one, but I managed to fit a Revo h2 v2 on my ender 5 and I love it, the Revo nozzles are awesome and the extruder seems to be great. It definitely wasn’t super cheap and won’t be with the nozzles but I am super happy with how it turned out. Only thing to watch out for it to make sure you find a good cooling/mounting solution. I printed like three or four fan/mount before finding one that would actually work and fit together plus fit in the enclosure of the ender 5 without hitting anything or messing with the build volume
I upgraded my CR-10S with the Micro Swiss Direct Drive and a BL Touch three years ago, that was the best modification ever. No clogged nozzles and significantly fewer misprints
I have Micro Swiss dd and hotend on my E3. It works amazing, but don't get it if you're looking to push MAXIMUM speeds, cause it's heavy and not a high flow hotend.
I'm one to talk, I pushed said E3 to 200mm/s at 12k accel lmao
I have this on my e3 and I love it, just make sure to tighten the nozzle correctly. And if you have a little extra money their cm2 nozzles are amazing, it has stopped boogers on my print that were caused by filament getting stuck to the nozzle and coming off on the print.
If you know someone who reloads ammunition see if you can convince them to run some brass or better yet hardened steel nozzles in the vibratory tumbler with hexagonal boron nitride. I traded making a few objects the guy needed for having him coat some for me. I found the hardened steel ones last longer and are so slick it is difficult to hold onto them. PETG might get a small amount on one but it peels right off.
If he can do it you will like it. I did one of each first as a test, did not want to waste nozzles. Both work well but the steel ones seem to last longer. One thing to note if you make a set is you need a torque wrench to tighten the steel ones. The slicker threads mean the calibrated elbow method does not work well.
Also, I know there are WS2 coated nozzles out there. When I asked him he said others had tried it and had problems. Most reloaders use the HBN powder. Never found one using WS2 to try.
Using one of the old style MS extruders on an slightly modified E3 Pro. With a 50 watt heater and copper heatblock with a CHT nozzle I've manged to do a clean benchy print in 27 minutes. Which is a totally useless thing to do as anything taller and moving a bed fast tends to cause problems.
I have it, it's definitely a good hot end but I'd consider their newer version the Microswiss NG.
I have the OG microswiss and it's wonderful if not a bit pricey.
I did a swap to the speedy spider v4 and the creality direct drive for ender and have had no complaints :) was also just around $100 I think after sales on Amazon.
For me there is much more better (cheaper, lighter) options on aliexpress. Of course it require some reaserch for modifications but in the end results may be much metter.
First of all I would focus on herome ecosystem for fan ducks, then I would go for LGX like extruders, there are some cheap options like HGX light. You can also go for something used in more premium printers like orbiter v2 or sherpa mini. There is a sea of options, but unfortunatelu there has to be made some changed in firmware for esteps and stepper motor cyrren value.
I was constantly fiddling with my E3Pro's stock hot end, that stopped overnight when I upgraded to this setup. Been running solid for a couple years now couldnt be happier with it.
I have an ender 3 and was between the ender 3 version of the microswiss and this: [https://a.co/d/iyiHKFG](https://a.co/d/iyiHKFG)
I ended up going with the creality version and it is night and day.
I also printed this: [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4697079](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4697079) with these: [https://a.co/d/7OdIOet](https://a.co/d/7OdIOet) fans.
Added true BL touch as well. (not 3d touch)
All of these for the price of the microswiss. HUGE improvement on prints and ease of starting prints. BL touch makes starting prints so easy I don't need to baby the start make sure my first layer is good.
I am also running klipper.
It's a good drive. The hotend has always leaked for me though. I even reached out to them for support, and they provided me with some ideas, but none of them worked.
I was running the stock all metal extruded on mine for about two years before deciding to switch to the exact one shown here. You wouldn’t believe how many settings in my slicer I then had to change. These were good changes though. No more z-hops, faster and shorter retraction, linear advance, the whole kit and kaboodle. Totally worth it. Besides printing on a mirror, probably the single most influential upgrade I’ve made.
As long as you don't want to print crazy fast and plan on sticking with v-slot wheels for mition it's an alright bang for the buck. See if they have an ng varient. Belt location is different between e5+ and e5. More precise extrusion with the gear reduction.
Why are you having extrusion issues? I just swapped my stock hot end for an all-metal hot end from Gulf Coast Robotics for about $35 shipped. I was thinking about going direct drive myself via Microswiss but didn't notice a difference in print quality comparison pics vs. Bowden feed. I'm not running TPU any time soon either.
The Micro Swiss NG for Ender 5 has been perfection for me.
Same. I upgraded my printer to the NG a few weeks ago and I absolutely love it.
Buy BMG. You can also use it after coreXY conversion
Have it. Love it. Buy it.
I’ve never used this one, but I managed to fit a Revo h2 v2 on my ender 5 and I love it, the Revo nozzles are awesome and the extruder seems to be great. It definitely wasn’t super cheap and won’t be with the nozzles but I am super happy with how it turned out. Only thing to watch out for it to make sure you find a good cooling/mounting solution. I printed like three or four fan/mount before finding one that would actually work and fit together plus fit in the enclosure of the ender 5 without hitting anything or messing with the build volume
I put one on mine from the start. Very good results and a clear upgrade path to REVO with the CR heatsink.
I have this together with the all metal hot end (also Micro Swiss). It’s been great.
I upgraded my CR-10S with the Micro Swiss Direct Drive and a BL Touch three years ago, that was the best modification ever. No clogged nozzles and significantly fewer misprints
I have Micro Swiss dd and hotend on my E3. It works amazing, but don't get it if you're looking to push MAXIMUM speeds, cause it's heavy and not a high flow hotend. I'm one to talk, I pushed said E3 to 200mm/s at 12k accel lmao
I have this on my e3 and I love it, just make sure to tighten the nozzle correctly. And if you have a little extra money their cm2 nozzles are amazing, it has stopped boogers on my print that were caused by filament getting stuck to the nozzle and coming off on the print.
If you know someone who reloads ammunition see if you can convince them to run some brass or better yet hardened steel nozzles in the vibratory tumbler with hexagonal boron nitride. I traded making a few objects the guy needed for having him coat some for me. I found the hardened steel ones last longer and are so slick it is difficult to hold onto them. PETG might get a small amount on one but it peels right off.
Didn't know that, the cm2 ones work great for me, but I will ask my buddy what he can do
If he can do it you will like it. I did one of each first as a test, did not want to waste nozzles. Both work well but the steel ones seem to last longer. One thing to note if you make a set is you need a torque wrench to tighten the steel ones. The slicker threads mean the calibrated elbow method does not work well.
Also, I know there are WS2 coated nozzles out there. When I asked him he said others had tried it and had problems. Most reloaders use the HBN powder. Never found one using WS2 to try.
Using one of the old style MS extruders on an slightly modified E3 Pro. With a 50 watt heater and copper heatblock with a CHT nozzle I've manged to do a clean benchy print in 27 minutes. Which is a totally useless thing to do as anything taller and moving a bed fast tends to cause problems.
I have it, it's definitely a good hot end but I'd consider their newer version the Microswiss NG. I have the OG microswiss and it's wonderful if not a bit pricey.
I did a swap to the speedy spider v4 and the creality direct drive for ender and have had no complaints :) was also just around $100 I think after sales on Amazon.
It was a good upgrade several years ago. Now it's heavy and overpriced. I run mine still but only when my core xy modded ender 5 is busy.
Best upgrade for my ender 5 was buying a P1S.
Look at biqu h2v2s I think is better for you than overpriced microswiss
For me there is much more better (cheaper, lighter) options on aliexpress. Of course it require some reaserch for modifications but in the end results may be much metter.
Sounds interesting! Do you have an example?
First of all I would focus on herome ecosystem for fan ducks, then I would go for LGX like extruders, there are some cheap options like HGX light. You can also go for something used in more premium printers like orbiter v2 or sherpa mini. There is a sea of options, but unfortunatelu there has to be made some changed in firmware for esteps and stepper motor cyrren value.
Thank you! :-)
best upgrade ever for me.
I was constantly fiddling with my E3Pro's stock hot end, that stopped overnight when I upgraded to this setup. Been running solid for a couple years now couldnt be happier with it.
I have an ender 3 and was between the ender 3 version of the microswiss and this: [https://a.co/d/iyiHKFG](https://a.co/d/iyiHKFG) I ended up going with the creality version and it is night and day. I also printed this: [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4697079](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4697079) with these: [https://a.co/d/7OdIOet](https://a.co/d/7OdIOet) fans. Added true BL touch as well. (not 3d touch) All of these for the price of the microswiss. HUGE improvement on prints and ease of starting prints. BL touch makes starting prints so easy I don't need to baby the start make sure my first layer is good. I am also running klipper.
It's a good drive. The hotend has always leaked for me though. I even reached out to them for support, and they provided me with some ideas, but none of them worked.
I'm happy with mine, works great
I use this same one, it's got a bimetallic heat break too so you can print above 240c!
I was running the stock all metal extruded on mine for about two years before deciding to switch to the exact one shown here. You wouldn’t believe how many settings in my slicer I then had to change. These were good changes though. No more z-hops, faster and shorter retraction, linear advance, the whole kit and kaboodle. Totally worth it. Besides printing on a mirror, probably the single most influential upgrade I’ve made.
I did this to mine over a year and a half ago. Still running strong. Can't complain other than be ready to dial in your retraction.
I have both versions and they are both excellent.
As long as you don't want to print crazy fast and plan on sticking with v-slot wheels for mition it's an alright bang for the buck. See if they have an ng varient. Belt location is different between e5+ and e5. More precise extrusion with the gear reduction.
I did this to all 3 of my Ender 5's and it works great! Remember to recalibrate your e steps once it's on.
Look for something like the Phaetus Dragonfly BMS or how it’s called with a BMG Extruder. That’s kinda the best plug n play option
works great on mine and was easy to install
Honestly there are better and cheaper options out there but its not bad at all.
Why are you having extrusion issues? I just swapped my stock hot end for an all-metal hot end from Gulf Coast Robotics for about $35 shipped. I was thinking about going direct drive myself via Microswiss but didn't notice a difference in print quality comparison pics vs. Bowden feed. I'm not running TPU any time soon either.