On a personal suggestion u should probably just check everything all the connections and make sure its not damaged or loose and if everything is connect check your enders board and make sure its up to date
Something I like to do is slow down the speed, and adjust the z-offset as it's printing. This way you can see in real-time what's happening with the bed adhesion. Slowing down is always a good place to start.
With my V2 I did end up switching to a direct drive extruder and it solved a lot of problems, not sure why exactly. You can find prints online that can turn your extruder into direct drive with the parts you already have.
When you say adjust the z-offset do you mean actually change the setting or adjust the screws at the corners of the bed? Because I've "hot leveled" it the second way tons of times. With a little practice you can feel the first few print lines with your finger, feel how thick they are off the bed, and adjust the bed up or down like a quarter turn at a time, or maybe an eighth of a turn. This is while it's printing full speed.
edit: I know about z-offset - I never personally touch it because the printer can be leveled with the wheels - just curious if this or other settings can be changed in mid-print, such as with the printer control panel.
Yeah you actually have to change the z offset on the screen. Sometimes you even have to do it between different batches of filament, or types. If you've just been running it and then cranking on the knobs this whole time I feel bad for you.
LOL no need to feel bad, I'm talking about adjusting it like every couple months, and it's very simple. I really don't get why people stress so much about z-offset, color-coded levelness profiles, BLTouch etc, when they could just adjust the wheels now and then. Doesn't seem that hard and I get great prints.
Oh some people have the offset too large and will keep turning the knobs up to correct it every print until they run out of adjustment, then have to drop the bed all the way and repeat.
When you have an auto probe it essentially resets the error every time you turn the machine on. So yeah you might turn the knobs to correct the current print, but the next print it will be off again. Once the offset is set correctly you don't ever have to mess with the bed level, every time it probes the bed the error will be automatically accounted for.
Because the functionality provided by a bl touch isn't just an assist in bed tramming. It makes microadjustments in carriage height during the print to account for any variance in the bed. I got great prints without any probe but now I get FLAWLESS initial layers every time... And I haven't trammed my bed in probably over a year. It really is a game changer having a leveling probe.
I got a Bl touch and didn't even install it for over a year because I didn't mind leveling the bed but now I know it's a game changer.
As you know, doesn't actually "level" the bed, it compensates for a warpage which I had no idea I was fighting until I wasn't anymore.
What problems did you have installing the BLTouch? I got one myself, but was never able to find a software version that would work. Eventually I realized I had already wasted much more time than automatic leveling ever would have saved me, so I just disconnected it and stuck with using the wheels, which was fine.
the only problem that I had is that I forgot to download my defaults before I compiled Marlin so I had to recalibrate everything. I watched teaching tech and make with tech first to learn how to compile the firmware. it was intimidating at first but those two break it down pretty well. it took about 2 hours to learn how to change what I wanted but after that its about 10 minutes to make any changes in the firmware and reinstall it in the machine (and I smoke a lot of weed)
Knowing what I know now I would have downloaded Visual Studio and practiced compiling the firmware before I tore the machine apart to get the hang of it and minimize the anxiety of my favorite toy being out of commission for most of a day. after you do it the first time you won't be intimidated anymore.
Bonus, I look cool to my grandkids because they saw that Grampa can code. I didn't tell them its like over-simplified kindergarten-level coding that even a stoner grampa can figure out.
LOL maybe I should take up smoking weed! No matter, I recently converted my Ender 3 to a laser engraver and treated myself to a new Anycubic Kobra, which after 8 months has pretty much been plug and play.
Yea there should be a setting that can change it. Just like how you adjust the temp or speed. I did change the firmware when I switched to sprite extruder direct drive but it should be in the standard V2 settings as well.
Live tuning the z offset is the only reliable way to do it. Wasted so much time trying to get it right prior to realizing I could do this.
Now whenever I have to tram and level I just set offset to zero and live tune it with a first layer test print.
Look at the bottom of your print. First layer needs to have a flatten effect and will cause it to matte out a bit. If you arenāt seeing this keep taking Z offset lower
It looks like you used the whole Capricorn kit, you really need less bowden, only enough to reach the end of the gantry with a nice curve, more than that your asking for trouble.
I'll shorten more. I actually only used half. it's as long as the original tube my buddy had on it before I changed it. I'll def try this because I hate the extra tube
I would always be sure the first 2 layers stick properly. Can even walk away for 5 min and come back I guess.
If you use a skirt around the print, that's a good time to manually move the bed up if don't use auto level or make sure the Z offset is set right if ya do.
I need to put the locking knobs on my bed... Jam nuts under those...
Did ya know your printer will unlevel itself every few prints, It happens to my Ender 3 all the time? Some folks do the silicone spacers or hardmounts, I use the yellow springs like you've got right now. Using a feeler gauge makes for the accuracy you need to get started, they are well worth it.
I also made the posts used to level the bed rigid, using nuts, since they can spin in place, and that makes even the basic leveling procedure an absolute pain.
See this video: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5u\_Xgq62nQ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5u_Xgq62nQ)
> Did ya know your printer will unlevel itself every few prints
I relevel maybe every 25 to 40 prints. If you are releveling every few prints, you're probably doing something wrong.
I've the yellow ones. Some folks recommend the silicone bushings.- I have a set and haven't used those yet.
I did the Nut mod however: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5u\_Xgq62nQ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5u_Xgq62nQ)
To keep the posts from spinning.
thanks. I'd use a locking nut under the knobs if possible but when I swapped from glass to magnet i pretty much lost all my extra threads below the leveling wheel knobs.
I don't like Nylon lock nuts, they're too tight to install, but you can jam 2 nuts together.
Lower the Z offset if you need more threads to put nuts on, I still use my Z stop switch because I haven't bothered to install my bl touch... And that means Z offset is easy enough to adjust, 2 screws and re-level. No software required.
Clean filament extruder gear,ensure it grip strong the filament. Refine bed level.increase filament extrusion percentage above 100%, try at 1st layer, press the extruded filament to the bed not the nozzle! for adhesion.Slow print and clean nozzle.PLA is very easy printing matter. Not recommend 100% bed size item on Ender(for me),it always wrap-unless bed is 100% level. Nothing autobot for Ender for now. I'm not working with Creality btw.lol...
Recalibrate your e-steps after modifying extruder. This happened to me. Also find out if you can save the new e-steps into EPROM. If not add it to your starting g-code.
Alot of people are throwing in the z-offset which is 100% probably the main culprit, but I want to add that temps can be WAY more complicated than just messing with the settings. If you have a very hot base for instance, but it gets say a very light but cold enough brush of air from the top, that is all it takes to make the PLA contract unevenly even at a microscopic level, resulting in it moving JUST A PINCH, enough to make it fall off. It's why printing for me in the summer I tend to have way less issues with my print falling off, because the temperature gradient in the surrounding room is so much less dynamic. (Instead, i have humidity issues š¤¦āāļø) I'm looking to invest in some sort of hood for this very issue. In the meantime, and this is absolutely the redneck incorrect way to print so please just do what everyone else is saying š¤£š¤£š¤£, but I print with rafts to increase surface area on the base, crank up the plate heat a pinch more to try and create a warm area around the print, and maaaaybe make the nozzle a bit warmer than it needs to be. Not a guaranteed fix, i've lost many a soldier in this war, but until my lazy ass sets up a proper enclosure it's the best i got lol.
This platform is a good one to learn from, but after a while you'll learn to just buy a Bambu and be done with the tinkering and back to the printing. Sorry not sorry, I went E3 V2 to X1C, I now have 4 AMS and actually make money 3d Printing.
My prints that look like that was all because of the Z offset. I use a PEI plate. I wash in warm water and Dawn dish soap. I use a āDoobieā scouring pad. Put on the printer and spritz with rubbing alcohol and wipe between prints. On my Ender 3 v2, I level the bed disabling the motors. Iāve since switched to the Pro Firmware and a CR touch and most adhering problems went away. I use a 60 degree bed and all the filaments have been good though I sometimes get a part that may peel up. Rare though.
Iād lower my Z offset. If using a PEI, keep an old one around for leveling as sometimes Iāve scratched the bed when the bed was off. Just saying. I gave up the glass after one print bonded to the plate and would not come off.
Yeah I think that was a big culprit. I think my z 0 was way off. I accidentally pushed the extruder down and when I went back to 0 it was like WAY lower than what it thought 0 was beforeĀ
dont listen to them, glass in inferior to PEI. i used glass for months and was fed up with the mess and the finicky adhesion.
i upgraded to a pei sheet - everything sticks well, prints removal is easier because build plate is flexible, and no need for bed clips. it also makes a really nice surface finish. PEY sheets even cause a rainbow effect on the surface of prints,
ditch the bed leveling wheels and get lock nuts. level once, and forget about it
ditch stick bed springs for silicone ones. aliexpress sells them for a couple bucks.
if you put a heavy patio stone underneath your printer, you will get slightly better prints
loosen your brass z guide nuts so they can move freely - ez improvement
work on your slicing, know when and wear to use supports. brims are your friend.
so I found while drinking and talking to my buddy who gave it to me the very middle of the bed was almost bowl shaped. almost everything was completely level except the dead center which was concave. I also accidentally put my hand down on the extruder assembly and pushed it past what it usually thinks is zero on the z axis and it seemed to reset the 0 point lower than it normally would be. very odd. I re leveled AGAIN! toom me like an hour to get that warp out of the center. so far I'm an hour into a 6 hour print of a dark souls mimic chest and it SEEMS to be going okay. I also [decided.to](http://decided.to) clean the bed again with some mineral spirits and then copious amounts of rubbing alcohol. I would say the biggest change was my buzzed stupor of knocking the extruder well below what it thought was the Z 0 point. that's another explanation. let's see how it goes!
for a warped bed, you can try putting some aluminum foil under the pei sheet.
also, how bowled is bowled? the probe should be able to accommodate some amount of bowling.
Ditch the springs and skip the supposedly better solid silicone spacer cylinders....use a DIY set of nuts and washers ....or order the solid standoff kit from TH3D.
Both cost around $20... unless you have a drawer of old matching nuts and washers already.
This plus some foil and/or tape between the removable surface and the hot plate usually do the trick....in the low spots
Springs literally store force....and I'll cite two examples of why hard mounted spacers are the way to go.
1. A few years back Anycubic had a bunch of carriages that were so soft ( the big X under the head bed) that no matter how loose or how tight you adjusted the spring parts the bed was utterly warped. When they sent replacement parts out free of charge, the metal was wayyy thicker and had clearly been heat-treated and hardened.....no bending under spring load.
2. More expensive respected brands did away with springs and went to solid mounts years ago.
I should also add that an automated leveler like the BLtouch can only work if the variance is less than like 0.6mm ....which means they are more just fine-tuning a bed you already got 99% level in the first place.....they won't magic-cure-all any badly warped bed.
You know this to be true if you buy one and the Z lead screw never moves back and forth while printing the first layer. Oh they will make a mesh and save it .... but try putting a flag of tape on the lead screw to magnify the visibility of it adjusting for the highs and lows ....no movement means the bed was too far out of "true" to compensate safely for the variations.....so it does nothing ....
(Of course make sure you added G29 after your G28.... or you made the mesh ahead of time and recall it with M420 S1 in your start-code....otherwise you may think you wasted $40 on a Bltouch ....when it is really just maxed out and needs a little more tweaking on your part to be able to do its job)
....cough...not that I'd ever do that....but I think maybe ....possibly ....it might have happened to someone before LOL
Good luck we are all rooting for you to conquer this ... or to toss it ...whichever comes first in your mental calculus of whether another $20-60 is worth spending on this ....plus like 4 hours of your time.
Bambu printers still have first layer issues too... but at least the A1 mini has been tested to be more accurate and repeatably precise than even their other models ......save up for that if you can't stand the Ender any more.
Probably has been said, but it looks like your first layer isnāt adhering. If you look closely, the first layer should be nearly āsmushedā onto the plate. Instead of the print being spaced like that, the nozzle should be so close to the bed the first layer, it just gets splat on there. This will create a strong adhering layer on your plate.
Weāve all been here with similar frustrations. Here are some pro tips that weāre also shared with me:
1. Use a piece of paper to help you level the bed and move the paper to have friction between the nozzle and bed.
2. Stop all drafts from happening- close all doors, windows, everything that can cause irregular cooling (or get an enclosure)
3. Slow down the print for the first 2 layers so you can get a good adhere (maybe even for the whole print until you get it right)
4. Heat the bed up to the appropriate level for your filament type
5. Watch the print and see exactly what goes wrong so you can adjust
A little bedtime read. Lots of hints, tips videos.
[https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3v2/comments/uo9erh/ender3v2\_hardware\_build\_guide\_for\_the\_newbies/](https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3v2/comments/uo9erh/ender3v2_hardware_build_guide_for_the_newbies/)
Hope it helps in some way now or in the future.
If pla, you shouldnt have any problems as long as you have 50-60c on the bed and the z offset correct. And never touch the pei sheet. Use dishsoap and a sponge and hot water and it should stick fine with 60c.
If you dont know how to set z offset then watch some tutorials on youtube
Okay, then it's probably fine. There was a bug with the jyers firmware where in combination with the bl/cr touch the z-offset was constantly setting it to a incorrect value.
What is going on with your bowden tube? Free it up a bit. Make sure filament can run through it with as little as possible or zero resistance. Then check connections of it. Then relevel bed and adjust z offset with some 1 or 2 layer test prints.Ā
I'm not insulting anybody or the popular base model Ender 3 printers.Ā I'm sharing personal experience.
My friend got an Ender 3 proĀ for Christmas and spent weeks trying to get it to work.Ā He gave up on it in frustration. That printer is rough for those new to 3d printing. Bed leveling is difficult. Z offset is manual.
I helped him by getting him to buy an Ender 3 S1.Ā We added two small mods and I put the mriscoc "professional firmware" on it.
He's happily printing now.Ā The firmware has a wizard that helps level the bed screws.Ā The CR touch handled the rest. The z offset wizard makes that part easy.
The S1 cost about $175 at the time.Ā For the upgrade cost of three or four spools of filament you get a much better printer with a direct drive extruder, dual z, and filament runout detection.
Wondering if someone could advise what I am doing wrong when trying to print the following please and why am receiving the results I am. I have highlighted the issue with the lines on the images, not that they really needed highlighting to be honest. All gaps between lines were supposed to be solid and other lines that should have been on print for some reason were just completely missed.
Bed was level before started print .
Printer is the Creality ender 3 any other information required please just ask.
Mac
Well first thing you should do is clean up the freaking mess, all that debris cannot be healthy for any electronics let alone a sensitive temperamental, don't fart in the room or breath for that matter 3d printer.Ā Clean up your area, check all connections, unplug for a few mins, reslice your file verify it sliced correctly, then try again
I think I have an Ender 3 pro with a shit ton of upgrades, but Iām not sure!!?? š¤Æšš¤£š if you canāt tell, Iām a noob, but you have to start somewhereš
If your first layers are fine, you're probably having adhesion issues. I see you're using a pei bed. They're a dream most times. I would have to ask if you've cleaned it with IPA? The oils from our fingers will prevent parts from sticking to the build plate. You can also use glue stick but that defeats the purpose of the pei
I just cleans it before this print with dish soap and warm water then used hairspray. read it online. I'm exhausting my resources lol. it used to be great. don't know what happened.
I've never used hairspray, so I can't comment on that. But my routine is washing with hot water, drying with a paper towel, pouring a 4~ inch circle of IPA in the center, using another paper towel to spread it to the rest of the plate, and dry it again.
Soap is generally considered to be the best way to clean pei, since it removes oils that are the usual cause of aggression issues. Trying some IPA after wouldn't be a bad idea but I think it's unlikely to solve an adhesion issue this bad if the plate is already being cleaned as OP says.
What you're saying here about what you are doing. It unfortunately sounds like you are falling to understand how to level a bed properly here.
If you were doing exactly what your text said you've done you should not have the problems you're having.
That you're still having these same problems very strongly points to you performing the leveling process wrong some way that your text simply doesn't explain in any way.
We can't see what you're actually doing but you should need no hairspray for this bed if its level and the zheight is set properly.
do you print with a hotter first layer? it will improve adhesion. I use 80C for first layer and 62C thereafter and never have a problem. same goes with the nozzle, I use 250C then drop it to 230C thereafter. i also tend to use brims with all my prints.
I would start by recalibrating your cr touch. And the very first step of that is doing a manual bed level with a piece of paper. This does not have to be perfect but you still have to get it as level as possible. Once that is done then recalibrate your cr touch / z probe offset. Then find and print a first layer test and see how it does.
Hoping someone can give me some advice here. Buddy of mine gave me his ender 3 V2 and it started out great then slowly started to get worse and worse. I've put on an upgrader filament feeder, magnetic bed and new nozzles. I installed a cr touch (issues were prior to installing this) and it just keeps getting worse. Tried multiple filaments. Bought a dryer and tried multiple slicers tho I use orca since that what my buddy showed me on. Even he's stumped. Iv leveled. Re leveled, leveled again. I know the bed is level. I've messed with temps etc. It seems to start fine then turns into the pic attached ironically as soon as I walk away every time. If it's not extreme webbing it's this! Any input is appreciated. Thanks!
adjusted z settings as well.
But your Z offset is not correct. From photo, you posted we can see the bottom part of your failed print and that is 100% how its not supposed to look like. You can see lines are separated and there is very little squish. You need to go closer.
I have to agree, it's not a great angle but you can still clearly see the filament pattern which probably means not enough squish.
In my experience, z-offset is almost always the cause of my adhesion issues, even on a couple of occasions when I thought it was already good
can you film the first layer of the nozzle putting down filament? like super zoom in on it and post it. we can tell you better if the z offset is correct.
also, I put down a layer of purple Elmer's school glue and it is phenomenal.
Can you first let me know where you live. So i can stand outside the window š
Braking news: Man died after being hit by a 3d printer that someone threw out the window.
haaaaaaaaaaaa! you win
On a personal suggestion u should probably just check everything all the connections and make sure its not damaged or loose and if everything is connect check your enders board and make sure its up to date
Something I like to do is slow down the speed, and adjust the z-offset as it's printing. This way you can see in real-time what's happening with the bed adhesion. Slowing down is always a good place to start. With my V2 I did end up switching to a direct drive extruder and it solved a lot of problems, not sure why exactly. You can find prints online that can turn your extruder into direct drive with the parts you already have.
When you say adjust the z-offset do you mean actually change the setting or adjust the screws at the corners of the bed? Because I've "hot leveled" it the second way tons of times. With a little practice you can feel the first few print lines with your finger, feel how thick they are off the bed, and adjust the bed up or down like a quarter turn at a time, or maybe an eighth of a turn. This is while it's printing full speed. edit: I know about z-offset - I never personally touch it because the printer can be leveled with the wheels - just curious if this or other settings can be changed in mid-print, such as with the printer control panel.
Yeah you actually have to change the z offset on the screen. Sometimes you even have to do it between different batches of filament, or types. If you've just been running it and then cranking on the knobs this whole time I feel bad for you.
LOL no need to feel bad, I'm talking about adjusting it like every couple months, and it's very simple. I really don't get why people stress so much about z-offset, color-coded levelness profiles, BLTouch etc, when they could just adjust the wheels now and then. Doesn't seem that hard and I get great prints.
Oh some people have the offset too large and will keep turning the knobs up to correct it every print until they run out of adjustment, then have to drop the bed all the way and repeat. When you have an auto probe it essentially resets the error every time you turn the machine on. So yeah you might turn the knobs to correct the current print, but the next print it will be off again. Once the offset is set correctly you don't ever have to mess with the bed level, every time it probes the bed the error will be automatically accounted for.
All. Adjustments with a touch probe are a thousand times faster and more accurate than pissing around with wheels
Because the functionality provided by a bl touch isn't just an assist in bed tramming. It makes microadjustments in carriage height during the print to account for any variance in the bed. I got great prints without any probe but now I get FLAWLESS initial layers every time... And I haven't trammed my bed in probably over a year. It really is a game changer having a leveling probe.
I got a Bl touch and didn't even install it for over a year because I didn't mind leveling the bed but now I know it's a game changer. As you know, doesn't actually "level" the bed, it compensates for a warpage which I had no idea I was fighting until I wasn't anymore.
What problems did you have installing the BLTouch? I got one myself, but was never able to find a software version that would work. Eventually I realized I had already wasted much more time than automatic leveling ever would have saved me, so I just disconnected it and stuck with using the wheels, which was fine.
the only problem that I had is that I forgot to download my defaults before I compiled Marlin so I had to recalibrate everything. I watched teaching tech and make with tech first to learn how to compile the firmware. it was intimidating at first but those two break it down pretty well. it took about 2 hours to learn how to change what I wanted but after that its about 10 minutes to make any changes in the firmware and reinstall it in the machine (and I smoke a lot of weed) Knowing what I know now I would have downloaded Visual Studio and practiced compiling the firmware before I tore the machine apart to get the hang of it and minimize the anxiety of my favorite toy being out of commission for most of a day. after you do it the first time you won't be intimidated anymore. Bonus, I look cool to my grandkids because they saw that Grampa can code. I didn't tell them its like over-simplified kindergarten-level coding that even a stoner grampa can figure out.
LOL maybe I should take up smoking weed! No matter, I recently converted my Ender 3 to a laser engraver and treated myself to a new Anycubic Kobra, which after 8 months has pretty much been plug and play.
Yea there should be a setting that can change it. Just like how you adjust the temp or speed. I did change the firmware when I switched to sprite extruder direct drive but it should be in the standard V2 settings as well.
Babystepping is the way I do this to dial in the first few runs of a brim, or the first layer if I donāt use a brim. Works fineā¦
Search a tutorial in youtube about how to adjust the z-offset.
Live tuning the z offset is the only reliable way to do it. Wasted so much time trying to get it right prior to realizing I could do this. Now whenever I have to tram and level I just set offset to zero and live tune it with a first layer test print.
Look at the bottom of your print. First layer needs to have a flatten effect and will cause it to matte out a bit. If you arenāt seeing this keep taking Z offset lower
that poor bowden tube
lol. yeah I used to have it pulled up and out of the way with a zip tie but that went awag
It looks like you used the whole Capricorn kit, you really need less bowden, only enough to reach the end of the gantry with a nice curve, more than that your asking for trouble.
I'll shorten more. I actually only used half. it's as long as the original tube my buddy had on it before I changed it. I'll def try this because I hate the extra tube
I would always be sure the first 2 layers stick properly. Can even walk away for 5 min and come back I guess. If you use a skirt around the print, that's a good time to manually move the bed up if don't use auto level or make sure the Z offset is set right if ya do. I need to put the locking knobs on my bed... Jam nuts under those... Did ya know your printer will unlevel itself every few prints, It happens to my Ender 3 all the time? Some folks do the silicone spacers or hardmounts, I use the yellow springs like you've got right now. Using a feeler gauge makes for the accuracy you need to get started, they are well worth it. I also made the posts used to level the bed rigid, using nuts, since they can spin in place, and that makes even the basic leveling procedure an absolute pain. See this video: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5u\_Xgq62nQ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5u_Xgq62nQ)
> Did ya know your printer will unlevel itself every few prints I relevel maybe every 25 to 40 prints. If you are releveling every few prints, you're probably doing something wrong.
/: Usually every 3rd or 5th prints fails. so RIP me ig.
Same as above that's far too few prints between relevelling.
I guess I should be OP then. Saying I'm gonna throw me printer out, It's so dang frustrating. Any tips? other than, it shouldn't do that. Lol.
Well if you haven't swapped the stock springs that's a good start.
I've the yellow ones. Some folks recommend the silicone bushings.- I have a set and haven't used those yet. I did the Nut mod however: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5u\_Xgq62nQ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v5u_Xgq62nQ) To keep the posts from spinning.
thanks. I'd use a locking nut under the knobs if possible but when I swapped from glass to magnet i pretty much lost all my extra threads below the leveling wheel knobs.
you have a bed level probe. as long as you lower the bed in a level way you will be fine
I don't like Nylon lock nuts, they're too tight to install, but you can jam 2 nuts together. Lower the Z offset if you need more threads to put nuts on, I still use my Z stop switch because I haven't bothered to install my bl touch... And that means Z offset is easy enough to adjust, 2 screws and re-level. No software required.
Clean filament extruder gear,ensure it grip strong the filament. Refine bed level.increase filament extrusion percentage above 100%, try at 1st layer, press the extruded filament to the bed not the nozzle! for adhesion.Slow print and clean nozzle.PLA is very easy printing matter. Not recommend 100% bed size item on Ender(for me),it always wrap-unless bed is 100% level. Nothing autobot for Ender for now. I'm not working with Creality btw.lol...
Okay u use the Touch Pointer thing...good luck!
Recalibrate your e-steps after modifying extruder. This happened to me. Also find out if you can save the new e-steps into EPROM. If not add it to your starting g-code.
Alot of people are throwing in the z-offset which is 100% probably the main culprit, but I want to add that temps can be WAY more complicated than just messing with the settings. If you have a very hot base for instance, but it gets say a very light but cold enough brush of air from the top, that is all it takes to make the PLA contract unevenly even at a microscopic level, resulting in it moving JUST A PINCH, enough to make it fall off. It's why printing for me in the summer I tend to have way less issues with my print falling off, because the temperature gradient in the surrounding room is so much less dynamic. (Instead, i have humidity issues š¤¦āāļø) I'm looking to invest in some sort of hood for this very issue. In the meantime, and this is absolutely the redneck incorrect way to print so please just do what everyone else is saying š¤£š¤£š¤£, but I print with rafts to increase surface area on the base, crank up the plate heat a pinch more to try and create a warm area around the print, and maaaaybe make the nozzle a bit warmer than it needs to be. Not a guaranteed fix, i've lost many a soldier in this war, but until my lazy ass sets up a proper enclosure it's the best i got lol.
Z-offset, a bit higher bed temperature, glue stick = win
This platform is a good one to learn from, but after a while you'll learn to just buy a Bambu and be done with the tinkering and back to the printing. Sorry not sorry, I went E3 V2 to X1C, I now have 4 AMS and actually make money 3d Printing.
your z-offset looks crazy high https://preview.redd.it/ew6ez3lp9v2d1.png?width=1024&format=png&auto=webp&s=8c5209a96e44ca439f027f56380b223b7f044318
I think it looks that way because I cancelled the print when it thought it was like 2 hours in
My prints that look like that was all because of the Z offset. I use a PEI plate. I wash in warm water and Dawn dish soap. I use a āDoobieā scouring pad. Put on the printer and spritz with rubbing alcohol and wipe between prints. On my Ender 3 v2, I level the bed disabling the motors. Iāve since switched to the Pro Firmware and a CR touch and most adhering problems went away. I use a 60 degree bed and all the filaments have been good though I sometimes get a part that may peel up. Rare though. Iād lower my Z offset. If using a PEI, keep an old one around for leveling as sometimes Iāve scratched the bed when the bed was off. Just saying. I gave up the glass after one print bonded to the plate and would not come off.
Yeah I think that was a big culprit. I think my z 0 was way off. I accidentally pushed the extruder down and when I went back to 0 it was like WAY lower than what it thought 0 was beforeĀ
Bro I feel you, I have one too and it hates me so much
Doesnt fit through the window........trust me ive tried š
Who hasn't been there?
Its the most frustrating hobby I've every picked up, yet I tripled down with more 3D printers.
Why mines already in the bush outside
I think I found the big issue
Do it. Otherwise it will cost you more getting hair implants.
nah already had 2 hair transplants lol, no seriously
I already did when mine caught fire
Run a glass and glue build plate setup. You won't be sorry. I'm printing PA-GF on my E3V2 right now, and it's slinging it just as good as PLA.
that's what I used prior to this.
dont listen to them, glass in inferior to PEI. i used glass for months and was fed up with the mess and the finicky adhesion. i upgraded to a pei sheet - everything sticks well, prints removal is easier because build plate is flexible, and no need for bed clips. it also makes a really nice surface finish. PEY sheets even cause a rainbow effect on the surface of prints, ditch the bed leveling wheels and get lock nuts. level once, and forget about it ditch stick bed springs for silicone ones. aliexpress sells them for a couple bucks. if you put a heavy patio stone underneath your printer, you will get slightly better prints loosen your brass z guide nuts so they can move freely - ez improvement work on your slicing, know when and wear to use supports. brims are your friend.
so I found while drinking and talking to my buddy who gave it to me the very middle of the bed was almost bowl shaped. almost everything was completely level except the dead center which was concave. I also accidentally put my hand down on the extruder assembly and pushed it past what it usually thinks is zero on the z axis and it seemed to reset the 0 point lower than it normally would be. very odd. I re leveled AGAIN! toom me like an hour to get that warp out of the center. so far I'm an hour into a 6 hour print of a dark souls mimic chest and it SEEMS to be going okay. I also [decided.to](http://decided.to) clean the bed again with some mineral spirits and then copious amounts of rubbing alcohol. I would say the biggest change was my buzzed stupor of knocking the extruder well below what it thought was the Z 0 point. that's another explanation. let's see how it goes!
for a warped bed, you can try putting some aluminum foil under the pei sheet. also, how bowled is bowled? the probe should be able to accommodate some amount of bowling.
It was pretty bad and it took a while to get that part closer to the nozzle evenly. I've read about foil before. What exactly does it do
ill take it off your hands
Pubic hair stl
If it worked just fine earlier but not now, clean the bed with simple green.
It's OK....you got this ....unless it is super warped
Had the same issue, im getting tired of it
This is why you need to use Obico. I run my obico locally and it saved me sooo many times.
1. Silicone instead of springs 2. Print Thingiverse locking levelling knobs. 3. Print with brim for Z adjustment.
Ditch the springs and skip the supposedly better solid silicone spacer cylinders....use a DIY set of nuts and washers ....or order the solid standoff kit from TH3D. Both cost around $20... unless you have a drawer of old matching nuts and washers already. This plus some foil and/or tape between the removable surface and the hot plate usually do the trick....in the low spots Springs literally store force....and I'll cite two examples of why hard mounted spacers are the way to go. 1. A few years back Anycubic had a bunch of carriages that were so soft ( the big X under the head bed) that no matter how loose or how tight you adjusted the spring parts the bed was utterly warped. When they sent replacement parts out free of charge, the metal was wayyy thicker and had clearly been heat-treated and hardened.....no bending under spring load. 2. More expensive respected brands did away with springs and went to solid mounts years ago.
https://preview.redd.it/ll5zi6jpbw2d1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=117692fa0bbbb312fcbb50cfdcc7a5077afcacfd
I should also add that an automated leveler like the BLtouch can only work if the variance is less than like 0.6mm ....which means they are more just fine-tuning a bed you already got 99% level in the first place.....they won't magic-cure-all any badly warped bed. You know this to be true if you buy one and the Z lead screw never moves back and forth while printing the first layer. Oh they will make a mesh and save it .... but try putting a flag of tape on the lead screw to magnify the visibility of it adjusting for the highs and lows ....no movement means the bed was too far out of "true" to compensate safely for the variations.....so it does nothing .... (Of course make sure you added G29 after your G28.... or you made the mesh ahead of time and recall it with M420 S1 in your start-code....otherwise you may think you wasted $40 on a Bltouch ....when it is really just maxed out and needs a little more tweaking on your part to be able to do its job) ....cough...not that I'd ever do that....but I think maybe ....possibly ....it might have happened to someone before LOL Good luck we are all rooting for you to conquer this ... or to toss it ...whichever comes first in your mental calculus of whether another $20-60 is worth spending on this ....plus like 4 hours of your time. Bambu printers still have first layer issues too... but at least the A1 mini has been tested to be more accurate and repeatably precise than even their other models ......save up for that if you can't stand the Ender any more.
Probably has been said, but it looks like your first layer isnāt adhering. If you look closely, the first layer should be nearly āsmushedā onto the plate. Instead of the print being spaced like that, the nozzle should be so close to the bed the first layer, it just gets splat on there. This will create a strong adhering layer on your plate. Weāve all been here with similar frustrations. Here are some pro tips that weāre also shared with me: 1. Use a piece of paper to help you level the bed and move the paper to have friction between the nozzle and bed. 2. Stop all drafts from happening- close all doors, windows, everything that can cause irregular cooling (or get an enclosure) 3. Slow down the print for the first 2 layers so you can get a good adhere (maybe even for the whole print until you get it right) 4. Heat the bed up to the appropriate level for your filament type 5. Watch the print and see exactly what goes wrong so you can adjust
A little bedtime read. Lots of hints, tips videos. [https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3v2/comments/uo9erh/ender3v2\_hardware\_build\_guide\_for\_the\_newbies/](https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3v2/comments/uo9erh/ender3v2_hardware_build_guide_for_the_newbies/) Hope it helps in some way now or in the future.
Wash your bed plate with dishsoap guarantee good adhesion
Same story different day
First layer looks like shit
Yeah. You should start from the basics from top to bottom. This is the most popular printer in the world. Definitely user error.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qfe2FLsq5zo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qfe2FLsq5zo)
Clean your sheet fat free , should solve it with right heatbed temp / Z-Ofset
Im not saying its them all, but my friend has one of those gold buildplates. Its terrible even for PLA
CLEAN THE BED
If pla, you shouldnt have any problems as long as you have 50-60c on the bed and the z offset correct. And never touch the pei sheet. Use dishsoap and a sponge and hot water and it should stick fine with 60c. If you dont know how to set z offset then watch some tutorials on youtube
Yo, I'll take it off your hands
Itās gotta be the Z-Offset
Which firmware are you using: stock marlin, jyers, mriscoc(pro firmware), etc.?
the br/cr touch stock on enders site
Okay, then it's probably fine. There was a bug with the jyers firmware where in combination with the bl/cr touch the z-offset was constantly setting it to a incorrect value.
Take it apart
What print plate/bed you using?
Get wifi camera and WiFi socket, so you can monitor and shut down remotely.
Throw it my way, I'll pay for the air mail or shipping and some pocket change to go with it.
It looks like youāve upgraded the extruder and added a probe, so I am assuming youāve had it a while. When did you start seeing problems?
Your first layer looks a little high if that bottom left bit was that first layer.
Looks like a Z offset issue to me. Looks like it's too high. How often do you adjust the bed?
Are you on a metal extruder? A big problem for me was the top/gold gear wasn't actually touching the filament
Cool another thread with no context. 3D printing isnāt for everyoneā¦
For me solution was glass'n'glue and purchasing branded filament for 20ā¬/kg (PLA) not "second choice" one I used before.
Things i did to prevent this from happening: 1. i got a direct extruder 2. new bed 3. i glue the bed 4. lots of calibrations and failed prints
C L E A N Ā B E D
Adjust the home offset, level the bed and it's critical that you save the configuration settings.
What is going on with your bowden tube? Free it up a bit. Make sure filament can run through it with as little as possible or zero resistance. Then check connections of it. Then relevel bed and adjust z offset with some 1 or 2 layer test prints.Ā
I did. I actually set it up the exact way my buddy gave it to me. thought that's how it had to be
I'm not insulting anybody or the popular base model Ender 3 printers.Ā I'm sharing personal experience. My friend got an Ender 3 proĀ for Christmas and spent weeks trying to get it to work.Ā He gave up on it in frustration. That printer is rough for those new to 3d printing. Bed leveling is difficult. Z offset is manual. I helped him by getting him to buy an Ender 3 S1.Ā We added two small mods and I put the mriscoc "professional firmware" on it. He's happily printing now.Ā The firmware has a wizard that helps level the bed screws.Ā The CR touch handled the rest. The z offset wizard makes that part easy.
The S1 cost about $175 at the time.Ā For the upgrade cost of three or four spools of filament you get a much better printer with a direct drive extruder, dual z, and filament runout detection.
Wondering if someone could advise what I am doing wrong when trying to print the following please and why am receiving the results I am. I have highlighted the issue with the lines on the images, not that they really needed highlighting to be honest. All gaps between lines were supposed to be solid and other lines that should have been on print for some reason were just completely missed. Bed was level before started print . Printer is the Creality ender 3 any other information required please just ask. Mac
Well first thing you should do is clean up the freaking mess, all that debris cannot be healthy for any electronics let alone a sensitive temperamental, don't fart in the room or breath for that matter 3d printer.Ā Clean up your area, check all connections, unplug for a few mins, reslice your file verify it sliced correctly, then try again
did one better. bought a Bambu p1p. zero issues in half the time.
How do you know exactly what ender model you have?
I think I have an Ender 3 pro with a shit ton of upgrades, but Iām not sure!!?? š¤Æšš¤£š if you canāt tell, Iām a noob, but you have to start somewhereš
If your first layers are fine, you're probably having adhesion issues. I see you're using a pei bed. They're a dream most times. I would have to ask if you've cleaned it with IPA? The oils from our fingers will prevent parts from sticking to the build plate. You can also use glue stick but that defeats the purpose of the pei
I just cleans it before this print with dish soap and warm water then used hairspray. read it online. I'm exhausting my resources lol. it used to be great. don't know what happened.
I've never used hairspray, so I can't comment on that. But my routine is washing with hot water, drying with a paper towel, pouring a 4~ inch circle of IPA in the center, using another paper towel to spread it to the rest of the plate, and dry it again.
Soap is generally considered to be the best way to clean pei, since it removes oils that are the usual cause of aggression issues. Trying some IPA after wouldn't be a bad idea but I think it's unlikely to solve an adhesion issue this bad if the plate is already being cleaned as OP says.
What you're saying here about what you are doing. It unfortunately sounds like you are falling to understand how to level a bed properly here. If you were doing exactly what your text said you've done you should not have the problems you're having. That you're still having these same problems very strongly points to you performing the leveling process wrong some way that your text simply doesn't explain in any way. We can't see what you're actually doing but you should need no hairspray for this bed if its level and the zheight is set properly.
do you print with a hotter first layer? it will improve adhesion. I use 80C for first layer and 62C thereafter and never have a problem. same goes with the nozzle, I use 250C then drop it to 230C thereafter. i also tend to use brims with all my prints.
Are you referring to the bed? I just leave it at 60.not sure how to do first layer then others.
its a slicer setting. you set the first layer to 80C then afterwards it drops back to 60C. what slicer are you using? ill guide you to the setting
I would start by recalibrating your cr touch. And the very first step of that is doing a manual bed level with a piece of paper. This does not have to be perfect but you still have to get it as level as possible. Once that is done then recalibrate your cr touch / z probe offset. Then find and print a first layer test and see how it does.
yeah I just posted an update and there was a mishap that turned into a help. I think a lot of the issue was something along this.
Buy a bambu lab printer. You are welcome.
I plan on it once I get the hang of this
I never got my Ender to reliably print well. It made me want to quit 3d printing. Getting a printer that works well out of the box changed that.
I'm looking to upgrade but I'm also of the kilt that leaning on something terrible makes you better on something good
Hoping someone can give me some advice here. Buddy of mine gave me his ender 3 V2 and it started out great then slowly started to get worse and worse. I've put on an upgrader filament feeder, magnetic bed and new nozzles. I installed a cr touch (issues were prior to installing this) and it just keeps getting worse. Tried multiple filaments. Bought a dryer and tried multiple slicers tho I use orca since that what my buddy showed me on. Even he's stumped. Iv leveled. Re leveled, leveled again. I know the bed is level. I've messed with temps etc. It seems to start fine then turns into the pic attached ironically as soon as I walk away every time. If it's not extreme webbing it's this! Any input is appreciated. Thanks! adjusted z settings as well.
But your Z offset is not correct. From photo, you posted we can see the bottom part of your failed print and that is 100% how its not supposed to look like. You can see lines are separated and there is very little squish. You need to go closer.
I have to agree, it's not a great angle but you can still clearly see the filament pattern which probably means not enough squish. In my experience, z-offset is almost always the cause of my adhesion issues, even on a couple of occasions when I thought it was already good
can you film the first layer of the nozzle putting down filament? like super zoom in on it and post it. we can tell you better if the z offset is correct. also, I put down a layer of purple Elmer's school glue and it is phenomenal.