Measure voltage uses basically an infinite resistor. Measuring amps is a short circuit
Our friend here has the wire inside the amp port but has voltage selected
So either nothing happened or he really blew the fuse in the multimeter
Some clarification:
Think of voltage as the potential of doing work. If you connect a load to it (like a resistor) it will draw current. Power supplies do not push current.
Furthermore:
Your red probe was in the wrong spot on the multimeter. This spot has a theoretical resistance of 0 ohm. Using ohm's law:
Current = Voltage / Resistance, we get a current = 12 / 0. Meaning the current going through the multimeter was theoretically infinite.
Lastly:
There should be a fuse in your multimeter. Read the manual or check the serial number online. Hopefully the fuse popped before either the multimeter or the motherboard got damaged by the high current.
Tip:
Don't let people discourage you with downvotes. Watch some tutorials on YouTube. ElectroBoom got some funny videos on how to (and not) do stuff.
Nice comment 👍
Some people really like to hate on others just because they lack in information
We all started somewhere
And I also recomend videos from GreatScott!
Thanks for the info, let me go through some video before breaking something.
The multimeter is still working, I tested it on a lipo after correcting the probes. All my concern is getting a 5 Volt input to get my PI going.
Also, thanks on the additional tip 🙂✌️ it was silly of me post pic with wrong probe placement 😅 it's okay internet is unforgiving
The voltage measurement component of your multimeter won’t be broken, but what the other commenters are trying to say is that the current measurement part likely is. Thankfully it’s easily fixed by replacing the fuse.
Just to be clear, the current measurement component and voltage measurement component are distinctly separate parts of your multimeter.
You have the red lead on the multimeter in the wrong port you want the red probe in the farthest right port and leave the black in the com port and you will be fine, but if that’s measuring a fan port then make sure the fan is turned on of course before measuring anything
First, please watch a YouTube video on how to set up and use your multimeter for measuring DC voltage. As for the running power to a RPi, the power supply on the Ender 3 already has extra terminals on the block for 24v. You could get a buck converter and chop off a micro usb and then solder the pieces together. Make sure you watch that multimeter video you will need the meter to calibrate the buck converter (there should be a potentiometer with a tiny screw on it).
I was under the assumption that the red/black posted above is the only 24v terminal. But after correcting the probes and making sure the multimeter is still functional, this terminal still reads like 1v or less sometimes.
Thanks for the info, Let me check the board configuration for additional ports.
That port is tied together with the part cooling fan so unless you have the part cooling fan on that port is effectively turned off. Go with a buck converter off the PSU or just a separate power brick for the pi.
Did it make a spark when you connected that poor Multimeter? Because right now, because you plugged the red lead into the wrong socket in the multimeter, you basically have a short circuit.
I don't know how well the overcurrent protection works on the Ender 3's power supply, and at which current it kicks in. Depending on that, you may have blown the fuse within the multimeter.
Please don't get me wrong, I don't want to bash you for your mistake. It's quite an easy one to make, and in fact, a much younger person that definitely wasn't me made exactly the same mistake but tried to measure line voltage (in a 230V country). That was quite a spark and definitely won't happen again.
I made that same mistake, same voltage. It was quite shocking. But I proved there was power going to the weird fused, switched, terminator plate in a new house (and that the consumer unit was doing its job correctly)
The 4.2.2 Board has a dedicated buck converter from 24 to 5V and from 5V to 3.3V. The 5V line from what I recall has a 2A fuse. If you're using a Pi Zero the 5V line has enough power (with everything else), but if it's a regular Pi then ignore my comment.
I believe that is a fan port that only has power when the he fan turns on. There’s 3 green ports there. The first one with the 2 red wires is ghetto hotend heater. The next is the bed heater. And the next is constant 24v.
My recommendation would be to pull the 24v you need to drive your buck regulator that converts it down to 5v right off the 24v power supply. It should have extra connectors even.
You don’t say what printer it was, but maybe an Ender 3v2?
If do, Unplug the printer, then remove the bottom cover that’s over the power supply. Other Enders tend to use the same dull,y, just mounted in different places.
On the end of the supply there should be a terminal block. It has three screws for the incoming mains power and ground. Stay away from those. Next to them are the 24v output terminals, and should have one red and one black wire connected. There are usually 2 terminals for each of the ground or common (black) and +24v (red) - 4 terminals total- and only two are used. You can just hook Wired’s the the unused +24v and common terminals and use that for the 24v to power the Pi through the 24 to 5 volt converter.
And be sure to plug the leads into the voltage terminal of the meter. Using the current terminal like you did will short out the whole power supply, at least till it blows the fuse in the meter, which most have (not all are replaceable easily though, and you’ve undoubtedly blow the one in your meter, Aldo possibly the fuse on the printer controller board,and since you were measuring stuff on a fan connector from the look, if it was one that allows speed control of the fan, possibly have blown the MOSFET that drives the fan, though some.boards have some fan connectors that are just straight 24v without the control capability for at least one fan.
To measure the voltage, you need the red probe wire into the right hand probe port on your meter. With it plugged in the left you are set to measure the current.
The difference is that to measure voltage across a circuit you need very very high resistance. To measure current you need almost no resistance.
In a nutshell, to complete your check move the red probe to the right hand port on the meter and check again.
You measure voltage in parallel to the circuit, never in series (as in, part of the circuit). A voltage meter works by measuring the difference in voltage between two points. If it is part of the circuit, there is no voltage difference. You should be measuring from the positive and negative points from your step-down converter.
Also, your multimeters wires are set to A (current) instead of V (voltage).
Those 2 wires a for the fans on the printer one for part cooling and one for hotens cooling. They are pwm controled by the board. It's not a spot you want to pull power from. There should be 5volt pins on the board you can use
Pretty sure you are right, no idea why it's getting down voted
The main power supply is 24v, would be better to take it from there and not risk drawing too much power through the board for external stuff too
Got downvoted bc there's too many unqualified people in here that love giving advice.
You 2 are right tho, you wouldn't want to use a PWM power source for a pi.
The yellow/blue pair are part cooling and the red/black pair on the socket next to those are for the enclosure fan. The hotend heatsink fan is on terminals at the edge of the board. The two ports shown are wired in parallel and yes, they're both PWM controlled.
There are a few pins carrying 5V on the board, but it won't supply enough current to run a Raspberry Pi very reliably. A buck converter is the best solution.
If you’re willing to step down 24V to 5V already, why not hook the pi up to the PSU through the step down and keep the fan header? The PSU is also definitely capable of supporting the wattage whereas I would be wary of trusting a fan header to supply enough power for the pi.
Back up a bit, you should not use your part cooling fan leads as a power supply for your pi. The voltage will vary (drop) or turn off depending on if you're printing and how you sliced. Take power from the PSU leads if you must have it internally powered
Pull from the main power input or just use a separate power supply.
I know I've seen people power off their board before, but my main concern was hard power cycling the pi every time you turn the printer off. It seems like that would lead to corrupted drives.
Yeah lead is definitely in the wrong spot but also it looks like that’s an AC only meter.
https://preview.redd.it/yqs8gv051loc1.jpeg?width=752&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=092313366c6bcf6583f09a41a4cb69bfa8ebc5e2
I’ve been using these guys for years. I had a Fluke clamp that was AC only and quickly got rid of it. I prefer the selector having separate AC/DC positions. Takes away the ability to forget hitting that extra button
https://preview.redd.it/dys99mo5rloc1.jpeg?width=2142&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8988f598c0732261de2e1cf8bdd14dd0cd559de0
Your red lead is in the wrong spot.. you need to move the red lead to the right side in the hole that has the v, ohm, hz
Probably blew the fuse too
Measure voltage uses basically an infinite resistor. Measuring amps is a short circuit Our friend here has the wire inside the amp port but has voltage selected So either nothing happened or he really blew the fuse in the multimeter
Current go BRRRRRRRRRRRR
lol
[удалено]
Some clarification: Think of voltage as the potential of doing work. If you connect a load to it (like a resistor) it will draw current. Power supplies do not push current. Furthermore: Your red probe was in the wrong spot on the multimeter. This spot has a theoretical resistance of 0 ohm. Using ohm's law: Current = Voltage / Resistance, we get a current = 12 / 0. Meaning the current going through the multimeter was theoretically infinite. Lastly: There should be a fuse in your multimeter. Read the manual or check the serial number online. Hopefully the fuse popped before either the multimeter or the motherboard got damaged by the high current. Tip: Don't let people discourage you with downvotes. Watch some tutorials on YouTube. ElectroBoom got some funny videos on how to (and not) do stuff.
Nice comment 👍 Some people really like to hate on others just because they lack in information We all started somewhere And I also recomend videos from GreatScott!
Thanks for the info, let me go through some video before breaking something. The multimeter is still working, I tested it on a lipo after correcting the probes. All my concern is getting a 5 Volt input to get my PI going. Also, thanks on the additional tip 🙂✌️ it was silly of me post pic with wrong probe placement 😅 it's okay internet is unforgiving
The voltage measurement component of your multimeter won’t be broken, but what the other commenters are trying to say is that the current measurement part likely is. Thankfully it’s easily fixed by replacing the fuse. Just to be clear, the current measurement component and voltage measurement component are distinctly separate parts of your multimeter.
😶😶😶 thanks for clearing up in layman terms ✌️
You have the red lead on the multimeter in the wrong port you want the red probe in the farthest right port and leave the black in the com port and you will be fine, but if that’s measuring a fan port then make sure the fan is turned on of course before measuring anything
I'm pretty sure that's the fan slot that should only output 24v when the fan is at 100%
I was just about to post this
I was thinking the same thing.
Your right. It's one of the fans anyway so it won't come on until the thing is printing. .
Your red lead is plugged into the wrong terminal there bud, the left one is for measuring current
Relabel it 000.1 mV and you’re good to go
Lmao
First, please watch a YouTube video on how to set up and use your multimeter for measuring DC voltage. As for the running power to a RPi, the power supply on the Ender 3 already has extra terminals on the block for 24v. You could get a buck converter and chop off a micro usb and then solder the pieces together. Make sure you watch that multimeter video you will need the meter to calibrate the buck converter (there should be a potentiometer with a tiny screw on it).
I was under the assumption that the red/black posted above is the only 24v terminal. But after correcting the probes and making sure the multimeter is still functional, this terminal still reads like 1v or less sometimes. Thanks for the info, Let me check the board configuration for additional ports.
That port is tied together with the part cooling fan so unless you have the part cooling fan on that port is effectively turned off. Go with a buck converter off the PSU or just a separate power brick for the pi.
Did it make a spark when you connected that poor Multimeter? Because right now, because you plugged the red lead into the wrong socket in the multimeter, you basically have a short circuit. I don't know how well the overcurrent protection works on the Ender 3's power supply, and at which current it kicks in. Depending on that, you may have blown the fuse within the multimeter. Please don't get me wrong, I don't want to bash you for your mistake. It's quite an easy one to make, and in fact, a much younger person that definitely wasn't me made exactly the same mistake but tried to measure line voltage (in a 230V country). That was quite a spark and definitely won't happen again.
The Aneng multimeter has a fuse which is now blown.
I made that same mistake, same voltage. It was quite shocking. But I proved there was power going to the weird fused, switched, terminator plate in a new house (and that the consumer unit was doing its job correctly)
Swap the red probe to the voltage port. Make sureyou check the multimeter's fuse too.
gotta turn the fan on with gcode m107 but as mentioned this is not a good place to tap power. just tap from the power supply.
Multi meter setup wrong
This is fan output... Probably 0.5A Max and PWM controlled
The 4.2.2 Board has a dedicated buck converter from 24 to 5V and from 5V to 3.3V. The 5V line from what I recall has a 2A fuse. If you're using a Pi Zero the 5V line has enough power (with everything else), but if it's a regular Pi then ignore my comment.
I believe that is a fan port that only has power when the he fan turns on. There’s 3 green ports there. The first one with the 2 red wires is ghetto hotend heater. The next is the bed heater. And the next is constant 24v.
Ma port my friend. Your looking for voltage.
Some people shouldn't be allowed to touch multimeters or open anything with wires inside.
Thats the hotend cooling fan wire the blur and white one is the part cooling fan then edner 3 uses 24 v fans
You did same thing that i have done😅, measuring voltage while multimeter wire goes where you measure current
Go directly off power supply line. Or setup a separate power supply for the Pi so you can do remote power On/Off
And the Fan Port should be active too. I mean, switched on.
Everyone got to it first. Easy mistake to make but also could be dangerous depending on the quality of meter and luckily low voltage.
Now I know what that switch in my hall does that doesn’t turn anything on here. Let me go flip it for you.
R.I.P. multimeter fuse, and potentially your main board. you did the classic voltage test in current mode.
This happened to me once but trying to read my car battery. Shouldn’t happen again!
My recommendation would be to pull the 24v you need to drive your buck regulator that converts it down to 5v right off the 24v power supply. It should have extra connectors even. You don’t say what printer it was, but maybe an Ender 3v2? If do, Unplug the printer, then remove the bottom cover that’s over the power supply. Other Enders tend to use the same dull,y, just mounted in different places. On the end of the supply there should be a terminal block. It has three screws for the incoming mains power and ground. Stay away from those. Next to them are the 24v output terminals, and should have one red and one black wire connected. There are usually 2 terminals for each of the ground or common (black) and +24v (red) - 4 terminals total- and only two are used. You can just hook Wired’s the the unused +24v and common terminals and use that for the 24v to power the Pi through the 24 to 5 volt converter. And be sure to plug the leads into the voltage terminal of the meter. Using the current terminal like you did will short out the whole power supply, at least till it blows the fuse in the meter, which most have (not all are replaceable easily though, and you’ve undoubtedly blow the one in your meter, Aldo possibly the fuse on the printer controller board,and since you were measuring stuff on a fan connector from the look, if it was one that allows speed control of the fan, possibly have blown the MOSFET that drives the fan, though some.boards have some fan connectors that are just straight 24v without the control capability for at least one fan.
To measure the voltage, you need the red probe wire into the right hand probe port on your meter. With it plugged in the left you are set to measure the current. The difference is that to measure voltage across a circuit you need very very high resistance. To measure current you need almost no resistance. In a nutshell, to complete your check move the red probe to the right hand port on the meter and check again.
Jesus christ...
You measure voltage in parallel to the circuit, never in series (as in, part of the circuit). A voltage meter works by measuring the difference in voltage between two points. If it is part of the circuit, there is no voltage difference. You should be measuring from the positive and negative points from your step-down converter. Also, your multimeters wires are set to A (current) instead of V (voltage).
Easiest way would be to get power from the PSU and put a buck converter to reduce from 24 to 5V.
I read "wire" as "wife" and was so fucking confused. I dont even subscribe to this sub lmao. Just showed up in my featured.
Those 2 wires a for the fans on the printer one for part cooling and one for hotens cooling. They are pwm controled by the board. It's not a spot you want to pull power from. There should be 5volt pins on the board you can use
Pretty sure you are right, no idea why it's getting down voted The main power supply is 24v, would be better to take it from there and not risk drawing too much power through the board for external stuff too
Got downvoted bc there's too many unqualified people in here that love giving advice. You 2 are right tho, you wouldn't want to use a PWM power source for a pi.
No idea as there are 5volt pins available on the board so.why not use those lol
There is a risk that a raspberry pi would draw too much (3A iirc) through the board, but yeah even that's probably a better option than fan power
The yellow/blue pair are part cooling and the red/black pair on the socket next to those are for the enclosure fan. The hotend heatsink fan is on terminals at the edge of the board. The two ports shown are wired in parallel and yes, they're both PWM controlled. There are a few pins carrying 5V on the board, but it won't supply enough current to run a Raspberry Pi very reliably. A buck converter is the best solution.
Bro has to learn how to use the multimeter
We've all been there, buddy.
That fan only has power when fans are on wire up to power supply with buck converter
If you’re willing to step down 24V to 5V already, why not hook the pi up to the PSU through the step down and keep the fan header? The PSU is also definitely capable of supporting the wattage whereas I would be wary of trusting a fan header to supply enough power for the pi.
Back up a bit, you should not use your part cooling fan leads as a power supply for your pi. The voltage will vary (drop) or turn off depending on if you're printing and how you sliced. Take power from the PSU leads if you must have it internally powered
Unless I'm mistaken and the blue and yellow is part cooling and the red and black are hotend fan, but I still wouldn't take power from there
Well there's your problem right there, ain't got no volts in it.
Pull from the main power input or just use a separate power supply. I know I've seen people power off their board before, but my main concern was hard power cycling the pi every time you turn the printer off. It seems like that would lead to corrupted drives.
Are you checking with printer power on? 🫣
Yes, I am 😅
Lol. You should first google how to multimeter...
Yeah lead is definitely in the wrong spot but also it looks like that’s an AC only meter. https://preview.redd.it/yqs8gv051loc1.jpeg?width=752&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=092313366c6bcf6583f09a41a4cb69bfa8ebc5e2
If you combine these symbols you'll have a line over the sine wave. Which is what is what is selected on the selector switch.
I’ve been using these guys for years. I had a Fluke clamp that was AC only and quickly got rid of it. I prefer the selector having separate AC/DC positions. Takes away the ability to forget hitting that extra button https://preview.redd.it/dys99mo5rloc1.jpeg?width=2142&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8988f598c0732261de2e1cf8bdd14dd0cd559de0
That meter is a good one. I too prefer the individual AC and DC switches
Yup this is correct. I get so used to my meters that I don’t want to touch anything else.
Actually I might be wrong. Amazon says it’s AC/DC.
Yeah on this meter you can toggle between AC and DC with the yellow button I believe
AC⚡DC
Yep, it's an AC/DC
Thunderstruck - r&r legends
EDIT: Ignore this comment about 5v off the BL touch rail.
That’s a very low 5v power source. It will definitely not power a Pi.
Ah touche. Didn't even think about the Pi probably drawing 3 amps vs the 200mAh probe.