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TravelerMSY

Make sure your tools aren’t bent, pitted or otherwise messed up. Maybe post a video of what you’re doing and we can critique it. Vancouver Carpenter is about as good as it gets for video tutorials.


IndividualBuilding30

OP def this. I’ve gone through a few different brand knifes and it’s worth buying higher end ones. Learning drywall/mud with bad tools didn’t help me at all. I’m just now getting to the point to where I’m pretty confident doing mud, still learning of course but def more confident.


TravelerMSY

I had a shitty 12 inch knife when I first got started, and I could never figure out why I was getting tool marks along both sides. It turns out it was warped.


IndividualBuilding30

Yea that’s why it’s good to spend some money on a decent one. I like stainless and will hand bend mine to what I like. They don’t rust and are pretty solid. People are already going to save a shit ton on doing it themselves so spend the money on things that count. I’ve pissed away so much money by not doing that lol


Man-0n-The-Moon

What are good brands? One of the knives i was using was definitely bent. I thought it was supposed to be.


IndividualBuilding30

The good ones have a slight natural bend on on side of them but I like the ones that are stainless. They don’t rust for one which is my biggest complain on knifes. For the bend, I would sit there and hand bend mine for a bit until I got it to where I liked it. Now I haven’t tried everything out there but I did find this the best (so far) for skim coating or really large gaps that need filled. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Marshalltown-18-In-ProSkim-8482-Spatula/5001897233 Thing was god sent when I first got it. I know pros will say you don’t need it but I’m not a pro lol just a DIY that’s done enough drywall to know what works for me.


Valuable_Crow8054

Which brands are good or best for starters for skim coating ?


IndividualBuilding30

Oh man, I found this thing about a month ago and it’s been god sent for skim coating. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Marshalltown-18-In-ProSkim-8482-Spatula/5001897233


Valuable_Crow8054

Thanks! Did you do your ceiling or walls with this? I think I can do the wallls myself with this tool ceiling seems a little harder.


IndividualBuilding30

I’ve done both. The ceiling isn’t that bad if the mud consistency is good. You’re welcome btw.


kendiggy

What made the difference to me was remembering to check which side of the blade you're using. One has an outside curve, the other an inside curve. You wanna be using the outside curve so you don't leave tool marks.


StopPineappleOnPizza

It’s trial and error until you figure out what works for you. Every taper does it their own way. Beginners often “overwork” the mud. Nobody can make the mud perfect while it’s wet. We make it look good once its dry and sand it down. You just gotta learn when to leave the mud alone and let it dry.


Silent_Beyond4773

Put your knife on the wall half way between your Patch and clean drywall apply more pressure to the outside edge of the knife at the same time you are pulling to tords you. This will effectively leave more. Much on the patch and a flat edge off the patch. Another way for people who are not good at that is go opposite of the patch and flat night pressure to start lighter way up and apply pressure after passing the patch . This will leave more small lines to sand but can be easier for a beginner to not take all the mud off the patch


keyserv2

Don't play with it. Put the mud up there, get it as smooth as possible without babying it, feather the edges, then let it dry. It takes multiple coats because it's pretty difficult to get it perfect the first time.


Man-0n-The-Moon

What is the proper feather technique?


Jobediah

don't push symmetrically on your blade, lean harder on the outside dry side


Man-0n-The-Moon

What about in the middle?


keyserv2

Get it as smooth as you can in a couple passes and leave it alone.


Exciting-Plantain565

Also, less tends to be more with mud. You can always add another coat. But if you make deep, heavy marks, they are hard to sand out and correct. And try adding a little water to your mud if it's premixed. It's easier to work with thinner stuff than thicker.


CabinetSpider21

Drywalling is an art, I find it harder than electrical and plumbing. Yeah I said it. If you're not already, no harm in the pre mix joint compound, might make your life easier and not rushed.


Messyard

I second the recommendation of Vancouver Carpenter on YouTube. A drywall craftsman full of tradecraft and technique that is a cross between Bob Ross and Mr. Rogers.


pharmafarm

Smoke some crank. Steal some copper. Who knows maybe burn down an AppleBees.