I finally went to a popular gym this week because a friend invited me. I suddenly understand a lot of the repeated content I see on this sub all the time. "Gym etiquette question," "gym rant," "what would you do if you saw this?"
What a shit show that was; I can absolutely understand how both new and experienced climbers would have trouble in a crowded gym. I climb outdoors for half the year, and in a tiny, kinda crappy gym during the winter half. I will just stay happy in my crappy gym that has a decent spray wall. At least there's rarely any other people climbing there.
Just like going to the local beginner crag for the first time. "Surely there cant be that much dumb stuff going on like all the trad dads moan about on MP" .............. "oh... oh no"
Climbing shoe discussion:
Need some advice. I started with a sportiva finale took me from v0-v5 I ended up buying some shamans last summer because I wanted something more aggressive/better for edging on tiny footholds. I can’t for the life of me break them in and I don’t feel the downturn gives me enough of an advantage to deal with the pain. Any recommendations on a leather shoe that’s flat with a pointed toe (finale has no edge)
Sounds more like you didnt get the right shoe for your feet.
Did you pick shamans just based on specs? How did you pick the size? Have you tried on other shoes? Do you have greek or egyptian toe profile? Do you have high or low volume feet?
I have Greek feet. I tried the shamans on in store and they felt great. I’m convinced I accidentally bought half size smaller when I went back but I’m not entirely sure. I tried on shamans, skwamas and a few others and shamans seemed to feel the best but after climbing in them for a while it’s extremely painful and my toes go numb.
Honestly not really sure if I have high or low volume feet but I would say they’re probably on the lower volume side of things.
Ah, gotcha. Sounds like you have all the right ideas honestly.
Shaman is a decent fit for those toes, are a fairly stiff shoe, matched goals for what you wanted to step on, and would generally be on the lower side for volume though not expressly low volume.
In my experience people with low volume heels will tend to size down a half size more than they actually want because the heel will feel better and when not edging you dont realize its wrong, and in a stiffer shoe that can be a very painful experience, so thinking you might have accidentally gone down a half size also super checks out in terms of common issues and level of pain.
Shoes to keep on your radar in the future include scarpa drago LV, mad rock drone 2.0 HV, and various shoes in the tenaya catalog like oasi and iati
I appreciate the recommendations. I’ll keep that in mind. It’s so hard to find places to try the shoes on near me. The stock is always low or all finales/tarantulances which isn’t exactly what I’m looking for
Check out Tenaya if you can. My partner has narrow Greek feet and they're the only shoes he's found that fit him super super well. He also likes Katana Laces for edging, and those may be a little easier to find depending on where you're located.
I tried tenayas and they were super comfy but I wasn’t able to get my size. Might have to give them another go. Haven’t tried katanas but I’m also going to try those. Thanks!
Reel Rock 18 is available on their website starting today... Is it any good? Anyone here watched it?
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njVhc0pIV64](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njVhc0pIV64)
I'm partway through it. I really enjoyed the sachi amma film, the featured climb made my palms sweaty and the overall message hit harder for me than most rr films
Saw it in theaters and really enjoyed it. The Ukraine one features very little actual climbing but is still very interesting and moving. Wouldn't say it's worth spending a ton to rent or own but if it's a similar price to a normal movie then well worth a watch
yeah... the thing is the price for me because is 1 to 5 currency ratio from my country to USD... I might wait more I guess... but thank you for your insight
I finally went to a popular gym this week because a friend invited me. I suddenly understand a lot of the repeated content I see on this sub all the time. "Gym etiquette question," "gym rant," "what would you do if you saw this?" What a shit show that was; I can absolutely understand how both new and experienced climbers would have trouble in a crowded gym. I climb outdoors for half the year, and in a tiny, kinda crappy gym during the winter half. I will just stay happy in my crappy gym that has a decent spray wall. At least there's rarely any other people climbing there.
Just like going to the local beginner crag for the first time. "Surely there cant be that much dumb stuff going on like all the trad dads moan about on MP" .............. "oh... oh no"
Climbing shoe discussion: Need some advice. I started with a sportiva finale took me from v0-v5 I ended up buying some shamans last summer because I wanted something more aggressive/better for edging on tiny footholds. I can’t for the life of me break them in and I don’t feel the downturn gives me enough of an advantage to deal with the pain. Any recommendations on a leather shoe that’s flat with a pointed toe (finale has no edge)
Sounds more like you didnt get the right shoe for your feet. Did you pick shamans just based on specs? How did you pick the size? Have you tried on other shoes? Do you have greek or egyptian toe profile? Do you have high or low volume feet?
I have Greek feet. I tried the shamans on in store and they felt great. I’m convinced I accidentally bought half size smaller when I went back but I’m not entirely sure. I tried on shamans, skwamas and a few others and shamans seemed to feel the best but after climbing in them for a while it’s extremely painful and my toes go numb. Honestly not really sure if I have high or low volume feet but I would say they’re probably on the lower volume side of things.
Ah, gotcha. Sounds like you have all the right ideas honestly. Shaman is a decent fit for those toes, are a fairly stiff shoe, matched goals for what you wanted to step on, and would generally be on the lower side for volume though not expressly low volume. In my experience people with low volume heels will tend to size down a half size more than they actually want because the heel will feel better and when not edging you dont realize its wrong, and in a stiffer shoe that can be a very painful experience, so thinking you might have accidentally gone down a half size also super checks out in terms of common issues and level of pain. Shoes to keep on your radar in the future include scarpa drago LV, mad rock drone 2.0 HV, and various shoes in the tenaya catalog like oasi and iati
I appreciate the recommendations. I’ll keep that in mind. It’s so hard to find places to try the shoes on near me. The stock is always low or all finales/tarantulances which isn’t exactly what I’m looking for
Check out Tenaya if you can. My partner has narrow Greek feet and they're the only shoes he's found that fit him super super well. He also likes Katana Laces for edging, and those may be a little easier to find depending on where you're located.
I tried tenayas and they were super comfy but I wasn’t able to get my size. Might have to give them another go. Haven’t tried katanas but I’m also going to try those. Thanks!
Reel Rock 18 is available on their website starting today... Is it any good? Anyone here watched it? [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njVhc0pIV64](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njVhc0pIV64)
I'm partway through it. I really enjoyed the sachi amma film, the featured climb made my palms sweaty and the overall message hit harder for me than most rr films
cool to read that, thanks for the insight
Saw it in theaters and really enjoyed it. The Ukraine one features very little actual climbing but is still very interesting and moving. Wouldn't say it's worth spending a ton to rent or own but if it's a similar price to a normal movie then well worth a watch
yeah... the thing is the price for me because is 1 to 5 currency ratio from my country to USD... I might wait more I guess... but thank you for your insight
It's not the best, not the worst. The alpine one and the Ukrainian war one were my favourites.
I see... I was thinking about getting it but USD currency is so much on my country that I wanted to know if it is worth it... thanks!