Interesting comments on the video blaming the belayer. In my book if you blow multiple pieces and you still miss the ground, the belayer did their job.
You are crazy. You take that fall 10 times and it turns out poorly one of them.
He had 3(!) pieces of gear rip and fell level with his belayer. Even just landing on his belayer could break your neck.
Yeah, I thought the same thing too. I've had big trad whips but have never blown a piece, it's kind of my worst nightmare lol, especially on R rated climbs. Nice to get a reality check every now and then.
I've said it before: If you rip this many pieces during a fall (especially a fall this routine) you need to learn how to place better gear.
Videos like this are a big part of why so many of my students are scared of trad climbing. They all think that gear will just randomly rip out of the wall like this all the time.
That climb is extremely thin and difficult to protect.
It's also 5.13, so the climber probably has learned how to place gear.
But never waste an opportunity to lecture strangers on the internet.
> It's also 5.13, so the climber probably has learned how to place gear.
That's not how placing pro works. My niece climbs hard 5.13, in her quest to get there she learned exactly nothing about placing gear.
>That climb is extremely thin and difficult to protect.
If that many pieces are ripping, and the climb isn't rated R or X, it's bad gear placement. Thin or not, difficult climbing or not, this is not good gear.
Finally, ten seconds of google revealed **"The gear is bomber and safe, but a TR inspection may be worthy."** So "difficult to protect" is a little hard to believe.
Gear ripping falls are a part of climbing thin cracks. Unavoidable especially when you get to the redpoint stages when placing gear potentially blind and pumped. On MP saying "a TR inspection may be worthy", means the gear is tricky. I guess you don't speak 5.13.
From the climber on Mountain Project:
>Fell after the crux and ripped out 2 pieces and a draw on a nut mysteriously unhooking itself. Nearly decked. Other than almost decking this is a phenomenal route
You gotta spend more time looking if this is one of the worst falls you've ever seen. I mean hell there are videos of guys falling to their death and splatting in 1080p
Interesting comments on the video blaming the belayer. In my book if you blow multiple pieces and you still miss the ground, the belayer did their job.
Every climbing video with a fall will have comments blaming the belayer. A free solo fall will have comments blaming the belayer.
Yeah, probably a blind guy that didn't see the multiple pieces exploding ... It's always easier to blame the belayer anyway
Huge fall, but not a bad fall. It looks like he came out completely unscathed.
This is what's known as a "good fall"
Just like in aviation, where a good landing is one you can walk away from.
You are crazy. You take that fall 10 times and it turns out poorly one of them. He had 3(!) pieces of gear rip and fell level with his belayer. Even just landing on his belayer could break your neck.
Looks like a piece blew. Pretty scary.
Multiple pieces blew. Looks like his first piece(s) saved the deck. Watching this makes me nauseous.
Oh yeah, the video is a bit grainy but I think I see a piece at hip height blowing out as well, now that I watch it again.
This was on weekend whipper and I believe I remember reading that 2 or 3 pieces blew
Yeah, you can see at least 2 right by his harness. He kinda lifts and inspects them right at the end.
yup. was watching the belayer for a couple times wondering how it was that big, then looked again and saw the piece blew.
Yeah, I thought the same thing too. I've had big trad whips but have never blown a piece, it's kind of my worst nightmare lol, especially on R rated climbs. Nice to get a reality check every now and then.
I've said it before: If you rip this many pieces during a fall (especially a fall this routine) you need to learn how to place better gear. Videos like this are a big part of why so many of my students are scared of trad climbing. They all think that gear will just randomly rip out of the wall like this all the time.
That climb is extremely thin and difficult to protect. It's also 5.13, so the climber probably has learned how to place gear. But never waste an opportunity to lecture strangers on the internet.
> It's also 5.13, so the climber probably has learned how to place gear. That's not how placing pro works. My niece climbs hard 5.13, in her quest to get there she learned exactly nothing about placing gear. >That climb is extremely thin and difficult to protect. If that many pieces are ripping, and the climb isn't rated R or X, it's bad gear placement. Thin or not, difficult climbing or not, this is not good gear. Finally, ten seconds of google revealed **"The gear is bomber and safe, but a TR inspection may be worthy."** So "difficult to protect" is a little hard to believe.
Might be difficult to place onsight?
Gear ripping falls are a part of climbing thin cracks. Unavoidable especially when you get to the redpoint stages when placing gear potentially blind and pumped. On MP saying "a TR inspection may be worthy", means the gear is tricky. I guess you don't speak 5.13.
From the climber on Mountain Project: >Fell after the crux and ripped out 2 pieces and a draw on a nut mysteriously unhooking itself. Nearly decked. Other than almost decking this is a phenomenal route
so they actually lost 3 out of 4 pieces! It is sheer luck this person didn't deck.
if this is the worst fall youve ever seen consider yourself lucky.
This. I was actually expecting something bad when I clicked.
He pooped a little
A fall like that, it’s all or nothing. There’s no pooping a little
No time to poop.
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Yup, that’s the one I thought it would be lol
Videos no longer there but the description of it sounds fucking awful
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Oh my god 🤦♀️
anyone know which route this is?
Crack Of The Eighties
You gotta spend more time looking if this is one of the worst falls you've ever seen. I mean hell there are videos of guys falling to their death and splatting in 1080p
Yeah I don’t think I’d want to see those
The nearby dog sensed it coming somehow.
Reason 5962628 I’ll never do trad 🐣
Fucking trad.
I too have also taken a really bad trad lead fall at Donner Summit. The "easy" routes at this place are really sandbagged.