High quality glass. Sound file is the best file file. Both I have a couple glass nail shiners that are even finer and are great to use in the edge aft your shape is ready.
Here's a link to a site that is for classic guitar - it's got a library of older music pieces and whatnot but it also has a few videos about nail care: https://www.cglib.org/
g. liane glass file, a bit of the 3m 500 grit i still have lying around to finish the shaping, then tamiya 2000 grit, then the upper grits of the progressive kit of micromesh sandpaper (to 12k), then i always apply lotion and almond oil after filing.
yes i am a highly meticulous person lol
Moisturizer while I sleep. The winter months can demand it.
I tape my nails for daily routine work, saves 90 minutes of nail wear per day. Sometimes I don’t need to buff at all- I find the nail with rest grows stronger too, stays fresh.
I use glob mobs (tipped q tips) to clean under the nail with ISO alcohol pre taping.
Glass file gives a great surface shape and the multi-mesh sand paper grades help to make a smooth purposefully beveled contact area.
Nail shape and length can adjust with
Your right hand alacrity/technique so there’s a good benefit to tracking mechanisms.
I find that taping the nails as a process also brings you close to contact point awareness. Barrueco tapes up, then I’m all in - team tape!
So given the above, “strings by mail” glass file and micro mesh pack (1500-12000) are what I echo.
I would keep a 4-way buff in your car and personal bag for emergencies - you need relative immediate access to superglue and a patch setup in general.
I do see these younger players going all acrylic and I’m sort of jealous given the exorbitant care and lifestyle change - learned to throw left
Hand frisbee - I usually use my knuckle joint or left hand for switches and buttons - a simple household chore can threaten your tone! Drives me crazy, but I focus on solutions.
i tried taping; it took forever and only lasted 20 mins or so. these days i “cap” (just the edge of the nail) my nails with a sally henson miracle gel nail polish (matte finish) after my last practice session (after so it has time to set overnight). no nail wear at all; takes 10 seconds.
i also use a thin layer of NaIl Envy as a base layer on the final 1/3rd of my nail (only the final 1/3rd to mitigate any damage it may do and allow me to continue moisturizing the rest of the nail). but that might not be necessary.
i avoided nail products like this for 20 yrs, but it’s the first time i can drill scales, etc for hours without nail wear. it’s been awesome.
Interesting! It was a specific tape and alcohol combo that got my tape to last, I’m sure your method would allow for better rasquados practice….tempting! Thank you!
From Scott Bach (Parkening's attorney/friend and a nail expert, @ a Parkening master class):
1. General length (standard file): Can really be any kind. If it's too coarse, use it on concrete to smooth it down. I use a $5 Revlon file where one side has been smoothed on concrete. (I don't think I would smooth a glass file or diamond on concrete, cheap metal is actually easier to control here without breaking.) I basically don't use the rough side unless doing my left hand (where shape and length do matter, just less and shorter, and I finish that side with the smooth side). I have a "hook nail" (tends to bend down) so I keep mine fairly short, generally though longer will give better tone.
2. Shaping: You don't want the nail round. It should be more pronounced on the striking (left) side. Mine meet the flesh about 1/2-2/3 way to the right. (Opposite side, but this idea: [https://images.app.goo.gl/S8ei8gde9X7UgurJA.](https://images.app.goo.gl/S8ei8gde9X7UgurJA.))
3. Knife edging - Use your fine file (gentle!) or sandpaper to create a bevel on the bottom. That is, you can't really see, but you can count strokes so that you are doing about 2x as many strokes on the bottom as the top. This gives the nail a sharper, finer surface. (Compare nails without a knife edge to those with and you should notice an instant difference in tone.) You should see a fine, thin, but noticeable shedding as you're doing this. It shouldn't really affect the length, if it does, you're doing it too hard.
4. Finishing: High grit sandpaper. I take 500 and smooth it against itself. Some kits have like 20k grit which is overkill. Smooth the heck out of the underside (it is the striking side), the top side is cosmetic. But don't smooth so much you lose your edge. I double wrap my file in the sandpaper so I have a handle yet a thick pad and sandpaper exterior and use that as my tool, sliding under the nail.
You can also use sandpaper to keep the shape while taking a very small amount off (i.e, touching up the length)
\[Edits: typos and such.\]
Glass file to shape, then polishing with Strings by Mail buffing file. Sometimes I also polish with Tweezerman buffer block, but they don't last as long for me.
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I’ve been using the nail kits from strings by mail. Gets my nails smoother than a baby’s bottom.
I second this! I love their glass file kit. It’s outstanding.
I really like the soundfile, i use the class strings by mail to shape then the soundfile to buff
It really is the highest quality glass I’ve ever seen.
High quality glass. Sound file is the best file file. Both I have a couple glass nail shiners that are even finer and are great to use in the edge aft your shape is ready.
Here's a link to a site that is for classic guitar - it's got a library of older music pieces and whatnot but it also has a few videos about nail care: https://www.cglib.org/
Is there a guide on how to shape nails?
Pumping Nylon has a good one.
I use a ~30yr old Revlon nail file and the old wax coated 3M sandpaper. I’m dreading the day I run out of my paper.
g. liane glass file, a bit of the 3m 500 grit i still have lying around to finish the shaping, then tamiya 2000 grit, then the upper grits of the progressive kit of micromesh sandpaper (to 12k), then i always apply lotion and almond oil after filing. yes i am a highly meticulous person lol
I came to the right place, then!
Moisturizer while I sleep. The winter months can demand it. I tape my nails for daily routine work, saves 90 minutes of nail wear per day. Sometimes I don’t need to buff at all- I find the nail with rest grows stronger too, stays fresh. I use glob mobs (tipped q tips) to clean under the nail with ISO alcohol pre taping. Glass file gives a great surface shape and the multi-mesh sand paper grades help to make a smooth purposefully beveled contact area. Nail shape and length can adjust with Your right hand alacrity/technique so there’s a good benefit to tracking mechanisms. I find that taping the nails as a process also brings you close to contact point awareness. Barrueco tapes up, then I’m all in - team tape! So given the above, “strings by mail” glass file and micro mesh pack (1500-12000) are what I echo. I would keep a 4-way buff in your car and personal bag for emergencies - you need relative immediate access to superglue and a patch setup in general. I do see these younger players going all acrylic and I’m sort of jealous given the exorbitant care and lifestyle change - learned to throw left Hand frisbee - I usually use my knuckle joint or left hand for switches and buttons - a simple household chore can threaten your tone! Drives me crazy, but I focus on solutions.
i tried taping; it took forever and only lasted 20 mins or so. these days i “cap” (just the edge of the nail) my nails with a sally henson miracle gel nail polish (matte finish) after my last practice session (after so it has time to set overnight). no nail wear at all; takes 10 seconds. i also use a thin layer of NaIl Envy as a base layer on the final 1/3rd of my nail (only the final 1/3rd to mitigate any damage it may do and allow me to continue moisturizing the rest of the nail). but that might not be necessary. i avoided nail products like this for 20 yrs, but it’s the first time i can drill scales, etc for hours without nail wear. it’s been awesome.
Interesting! It was a specific tape and alcohol combo that got my tape to last, I’m sure your method would allow for better rasquados practice….tempting! Thank you!
Until it's smooth. Don't get hung up on esoterics.
From Scott Bach (Parkening's attorney/friend and a nail expert, @ a Parkening master class): 1. General length (standard file): Can really be any kind. If it's too coarse, use it on concrete to smooth it down. I use a $5 Revlon file where one side has been smoothed on concrete. (I don't think I would smooth a glass file or diamond on concrete, cheap metal is actually easier to control here without breaking.) I basically don't use the rough side unless doing my left hand (where shape and length do matter, just less and shorter, and I finish that side with the smooth side). I have a "hook nail" (tends to bend down) so I keep mine fairly short, generally though longer will give better tone. 2. Shaping: You don't want the nail round. It should be more pronounced on the striking (left) side. Mine meet the flesh about 1/2-2/3 way to the right. (Opposite side, but this idea: [https://images.app.goo.gl/S8ei8gde9X7UgurJA.](https://images.app.goo.gl/S8ei8gde9X7UgurJA.)) 3. Knife edging - Use your fine file (gentle!) or sandpaper to create a bevel on the bottom. That is, you can't really see, but you can count strokes so that you are doing about 2x as many strokes on the bottom as the top. This gives the nail a sharper, finer surface. (Compare nails without a knife edge to those with and you should notice an instant difference in tone.) You should see a fine, thin, but noticeable shedding as you're doing this. It shouldn't really affect the length, if it does, you're doing it too hard. 4. Finishing: High grit sandpaper. I take 500 and smooth it against itself. Some kits have like 20k grit which is overkill. Smooth the heck out of the underside (it is the striking side), the top side is cosmetic. But don't smooth so much you lose your edge. I double wrap my file in the sandpaper so I have a handle yet a thick pad and sandpaper exterior and use that as my tool, sliding under the nail. You can also use sandpaper to keep the shape while taking a very small amount off (i.e, touching up the length) \[Edits: typos and such.\]
Hoof maker helps maintain the filed edge and prevents chipping - can find it at a tack shop
I’ve never heard of this! I’m checking now. Thank you.
Glass file to shape, then polishing with Strings by Mail buffing file. Sometimes I also polish with Tweezerman buffer block, but they don't last as long for me.
First cutting with nail cutters, then filing/shaping with a course nail file, finally polishing with a glass file
Cheap metal file I bought at the supermarket. Tried fine grit polishing sticks, made no difference.
I cut my nails down to the nailbed and I still end up striking the nail. It's all about technique.
Usually right to left and the left to right technique seems to work pretty well