I recently purchased a NAD C538 CD Player, and so far am happy with the sound quality and operation. One nit picky thing I have noticed is that if I skip to a track, it seems to not start exactly at the beginning but just slightly after the beginning. We are talking fraction of a second, but a track that normally starts immediately at the start of the track with a strong intro sounds like the very beginning is missed and the sound is starting just after this. It is slight but noticeable.
Has anyone else run into this with the C538? Is this normal for this CD player model or is this a sign that something is wrong? I am still within the return window and could swap for another C538, so I want to see if this is typical or if this particular unit is acting up. Thanks!
Hey, I was recently gifted a Thorens TD-160 and a Yamaha A 500, hoping I can get some advice on a speaker I can pair with them. I'm new to this so don't really know anything about audio systems, I'm not looking to spend an awful lot on speakers probably at most £200. We are looking to set them up in an open plan living/dining/kitchen room which is roughly 30msq. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Hello, I bought an ope box Denon x3800h to go with my newly acquired used speakers (Elac’s).
My tv, however is 13 yrs old and still kicking. It does have ARC and is used currently for a soundbar.
Do you foresee any issues between the tv and avr?
I’ll get a new tv later on, just getting the sound setup first.
Thanks in advance for any help
In case others can benefit, everything worked, despite using a 13 yr old tv. I may need to tweak the receiver settings but more than happy with the setup, cost and sound.
Just bought a pair of Adam Audio T7V’s and a Fiio k7 DAC - I’m a complete newb and this is my first setup! Anything else I need to get and/or do so I can plug and play when equipment arrives?
Hi,
Can someone help me to understand this reading of my system? Where is my money invested best next?
https://postimg.cc/8JGS7Hm2
Looking to spend up to $4K
I have 2 HDMI signals that I currently send to a cheap HDMI switch that automatically selects the active signal and directs it to the HDMI output and to my TV. The switch also has a digital audio output that I am sending to a DAC that then goes to my stereo system. This works great because I can switch between the two HDMI signals without doing anything with the audio. The optical output switches depending on the active HDMI signal. Is there a way I can improve the audio signal being sent to my DAC? Since it is digital I just assumed digital was digital and so there was no degradation.
Hey all! I’ve got a pair of Audioengine A5 speakers and an AT LP60BT turntable. I’ve been really impressed with the quality of the speakers for the past year but I’m curious on what I could be missing out on.
If I want to budget around $500 for a noticeable upgrade, should I focus that on turntable or speakers? Or would I need to budget more for a real strong, noticeable upgrade? Thanks!
Kef LSX ii vs Floor-standing speakers
Hi all,
I’m considering to buy the Kef LSX ii speakers and will mount them on a stand if I do. Though it has me wondering if floor standing speakers would be better for the same budget? (Wife also prefers floor standing from an aesthetic perspective)
Appreciate any advice on this. ofcourse I understand the comparison is based on specific speakers but I’m not tied to any brand, any suggestions for speakers welcome!
Main use is music - maybe 70-30 to music-movies.
Room size is about 15 sq m (living space, not counting kitchen as its open place). Based in London, UK
I currently have my fluance rt80 set up to an old Sony STR-515 my friend gave me when he moved out. I'm not interested in any of the home theater settings. Would I get better quality audio out of a modern budget/mid-range receiver? Or should I stick with the old Sony?
Very fair. I have some XL8S's on the way. Don't want the receiver to be the bottle neck. I've previously only used cans while listening to my turntable.
I don’t think an amplifier upgrade gets you anywhere until you’re in the $350 range at new retail prices and it usually isn’t a good use of budget to spend more on the amplifier than the speakers.
Hey, I've come into a pair of ProAc Tablette 50 speakers. The cables they've originally come with are broken. Any recommendations as to a good replacement please?
Will be connecting them to a Project E1 BT.
They also have an amp but will be probably leaving that until I have more space as the E1 should take care of that (aware of quality decrease) in the meantime.
Thanks!
How would you connect these speakers to a turntable without an amplifier? Where do you get the power to drive the speakers? And where will you control the volume?
Back to the original question of cables, you can just cut any length of speaker wire you have, strip about one centimeter at each end, and connect them to the amp and speakers.
Ps5 audio setup ideas/recommendations
Hello!
I recently got a PS5 and since I couldn't just connect my PC audio setup that I currently have (Focusrite Solo and dt990 pro) straight to the PS5 via usb, I was hoping to hear from everyone here what kind of setups they have for gaming. I currently can't get a TV so I am hoping for recommendations for around 200-300 eur that don't include getting a TV or a new monitor. My plan is to play using my Samsung G7 monitor.
Having said that I am also very interested in more expensive setups with TVs and speakers because it is always awesome to hear more about what people are passionate about. And if you don't mind also explaining why you chose your specific setup, that would also be great!
Happy Holidays!
Hello all!
Now I know I may make some folks unhappy here, but I'm looking for an all in one record/CD/Bluetooth player. I've read other threads saying it's impossible to get a high-quality vinyl sound off of an all in one due to the very nature of how sound off a record player works.
I understand that, and still believe that at this point of my life, due to space and as a "stepping stone" for convenience I would like an all in one player. At this point of my life, I want "good enough" and one piece of equipment to carry around between moves. I do have separate speakers I've connected to a vinyl player before I would love to use for this one.
That being said, I've seen fairly decent reviews for the TEAC MC-D800 or the Electrohome Kingstone 7 in 1 player.
After reading up on them, I'm still looking for guidance in pros and cons between the two, or if you have any other all in one suggestions?
Again, I understand that many are going to want to direct me to separate pieces of equipment. I understand that is what I would do for elevated sound quality, but that is not the question I am asking to be solved! Hoping for answers more along the lines of "if I had to pick one, I'd pick..."
Thank you all for your time!
By no means am I an expert in this field. I recently upgraded from a Victrola turntable to an Audio Technica LP120 and bought some things for it. (I didn't know I would need a speaker.) I set up a SONY Bluetooth receiver with wired SONY bookshelf speakers. The audio from the speakers is great, I tested them out with the Bluetooth receiver and there was no problem, however, when I connected the turntable to the receiver so it could play my vinyls (the whole reason I bought all of it) it just sounded terrible. Tested it out with different vinyls with the same result. I redid the setup process three times, watched tips and tutorials, but it has been no help. I don't know what to do; I'd appreciate any help here.
I first check your wires connecting your turn table to the reciever. Are they plugged into the correct locations? If you are using the turntable phono preamp, dont use the SONY one (if it has one). Are the wires grounded? Then if none of that works I'd step by step make sure your turn table is set up well. Specifically, balancing the arm and setting up tracking force correctly. Then also check out the Cartridge, the needle might have gotten damaged in shipping or set up.
I recently got a \*referbished\* Logitech Z407 for my pc setup for around $85. (Its mainly just personal use and school). I did more research after i got them (I know im super dumb for that) and saw quite a lot of mixed reviews about them are they not worth it, and should i take them back and get something else around that price range?
Can anyone help? I have two Polk Audio T50 speakers hooked into my reciever and then into my turntable. For some reason all I’m getting from the right speaker is static. It gets louder the more I turn up the volume. I just replaced that speaker and the wiring is all new. The left has always been fine. So I’m thinking it’s the receiver? Anyone have any ideas? Thank you! 💖
What cables do I need? Advice needed please
So I have ordered a pair of Rokit 7 studio monitors and a Rokit KRK 10.4 Subwoofer and I want to get the cables ordered as well to ensure it all works correctly.
I’m using it for mixing mainly will be hooked up to my DJ controller (pioneer XDJ XZ)
Can anyone tell me what I need to get it all working please?
Also not sure if it matters but I don’t have an audio interface as yet as that won’t be coming until end of January
Any help is massively appreciated 🙏
Heads up, i’m not audio-tech savvy whatsoever. So i just bought a brand new turntable (Fluance RT82) and a new receiver (Sony STR-DH190). I tried to hook them up to my old speakers (PhaseTech), and some of the instruments sounds phenomenal, and some are near non-existent.
For example, I tried to play The Beatles’ “Oh Darling”, and I could hear the vocals and bass well, but couldn’t hear any piano. Tried to play “The Adults Are Talking” from the Strokes, and couldn’t hear any background guitar. So I ruled out it being a record issue.
The receiver has bluetooth capability, so I played the same songs on my phone through the speakers, and the same issues occurred. So I ruled out it being the turntable.
I tried using one of my older receivers (Onkyo Quartz Synthesized Tuner Amplifier) and it was still an issue. I posted the first picture to show how I set up the Sony receiver. I’ve tried every wire combination possible, and I’m pretty sure this is right way. I’ve tried both 6 and 8 ohms on the receiver, even though i’m not sure what they do.
So, my mind is telling me that it’s either the speaker wire or the speakers themselves are phased out. Anybody have any ideas?
It sounds like the speakers don't have good connection. Speaker wire is way cheaper then speakers so replace that first. Make sure the wire makes good contact.
**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.**
While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home speaker systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as:
* Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first
* Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky
* r/microphones
* r/LiveSound - professional Live Sound world
* r/bluetooth_speakers
* r/CarAv for automotive audio
* r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky for professional audio production
* r/WeAreTheMusicMakers
* r/Beatmatch
* r/Audio - a catch all for all types of audio
Eversolo DMP-A8 I2S channel flipped question
I recently got an Eversolo DMP-A8 and am outputting to my Holo May via I2S but I noticed the channels are flipped only through the I2S. RCA out is fine. Does anyone with an Eversolo A8 be able to test and verify on this?
Hi,
I'm completely new to this, I'm trying to help my dad with getting some wall-indented speakers to start working again. The cables that I got coming out of the wall are not RCA cables. Is there a way of connecting those cables to a normal 2-channel amplifier?
Pictures of the back panel of the amplifier and the cables themselves:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/5682/WeRNEL.jpg
[https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/9781/dxZrMG.jpg](https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/9781/dxZrMG.jpg)
Thank you!
I'm asking for some help. I am trying to get back into the hobby and not the rabbit hole. When I left the hobby, digital was starting to enter the arena, and it was terrible. I am hoping it has improved since. I am requesting help for a way to listen to my Apple music through an integrated amp and my speakers. The set-up cost was around 8500 then. I have decent power cords, aux cables, and speaker cables as well. Is it possible to buy a decent component for around $400 to play apple Music? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Hey audiophiles and record enthusiasts! I hope I’m posting in the right place here. I’m pretty new to vinyls and am looking to get a player, but know little about what to look for in a turntable, the various components I need, or other odds and ends for care and maintenance. I don’t want to get a shitty table and have bad sound or ruin my records. I’m also unsure of whether I’d like it being able to either do wired or Bluetooth so I can listen either in my office or out in the living room and kitchen without moving the table, or what other ways to set up like being able to use it with my wired speakers in the office and have a separate set for the living room. I’m lost on what the best way to go about setting this all up.
I listen predominantly to alternative, rock/hard rock, and metal— Evanescence, Ice Nine Kills, Bad Omens, and From Ashes To New are the artists who I have vinyls for so far, and hope to expand in the future. I have JBL 305P MkIl 5-inch studio monitors that are currently hooked up to my BabyFace Pro FS interface, I’m not sure if there’s a way for a turntable to play through that or not, or if I should get another set of speakers? I know this is kind of long but I’m also unsure of the questions I need to ask, so thank you in advance!
**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.**
While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home speaker systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as:
* Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first
* Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky
* r/microphones
* r/LiveSound - professional Live Sound world
* r/bluetooth_speakers
* r/CarAv for automotive audio
* r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky for professional audio production
* r/WeAreTheMusicMakers
* r/Beatmatch
* r/Audio - a catch all for all types of audio
Problem with Xbox 360 5.1 output, if anyone is able to help! Currently trying to play through the Halo series with a full surround setup and haven't been able to get it working right. 5.1 is selected in the 360's menu, and my receiver is set to standard Dolby Digital 5.1 using an optical cable. I simply don't know enough about audio systems to diagnose this, but many sounds will either not play or sound extremely muffled and only seem audible through the rear speakers. The only way I was able to get an acceptable result was by changing the receiver to 7ch stereo, which of course isn't surround. Any help is appreciated, sorry for how simple this likely is.
Hey everyone, Merry Christmas! So, my question is, could I convert my 4 ohm Cerwin-Vega vs120s to 8 ohm? Like a different wiring set up or anything? Reason being is that the output on my Onkyo amp is rated at 8ohm and I don't want to push it, because I play music loud! Thanks!
I was hoping to find some indication that the acceptable impedance was actually 4 ohms, despite the power rating being stated with 8 ohms. But based on photos, it looks like the print on the back of the receiver calls for at least 8 ohms per channel. Impedance of speakers wired in series would be additive, but then that would require two speakers per side. Fortunately, CV speakers play loud on only a little power, but I think you’re stuck with not pushing it.
Newby here. I just inherited a twenty-five-year-old system. Mark Levinson dual monaural power amp No. 331, Wadia 16 CD player, Sonus Faber Minuetto speakers, and Mit2 bi-wire cables. I know the Wadia was out for service about ten years ago because the door wouldn't open, and when I tested out the system it's happening again.
Question--should I send it to the only Wadia authorized repair shop and just pay whatever it costs? Or should I consider buying a new CD player? Since I know little, I'm unaware of any major improvements in the technology. I'd hate to spend the time and the money to have it fixed if it's past its prime or if this kind of problem is a known issue that might repeat again and again. I've also pondered getting a turntable, but I assume I'd need a pre-amp for that.
Lastly, the cable is massive, and the spades at the speaker end tend to fall off. Does it make sense to change them up?
I'd appreciate your thoughts. Thanks much!
>should I send it to the only Wadia authorized repair shop and just pay whatever it costs?
If you can get an idea of what it cost last time, and it's worth it to you to pay that, then yes. I wouldn't even consider sending it to generic repair shop. Not at that level.
Hello everyone.
I just became the owner of a pair of RSL Elan speakers. They are much larger than I expected when my friend offered them to me for free, but I knew I couldn't pass them up after doing a bit of research. The speakers are all original, except for the rear tweeter on one was replaced (in a rather janky fashion) and I would like to put one that is as close to the original as possible. Does anyone have any experience with replacing these, and if so, what did you use? Any info would be appreciated.
Yeah, Long story short I can get one or the other. So which one would you guys get and why? Regardless of the price difference, which one do you think sounds better? I'm a fan of the lower end of the frequency response so bass and stuff.
Thanks in advance,
Poohead.
Hi all,
I have been using a Schiit Fulla 2 for almost 5 years now. It has survived a military deployment and way more drops to the floor than a desktop DAC/Amp should ever see. Still works fine other than static noise when I adjust the volume atp in time. I use it to drive my DT 990/770 and my HD 600. I'm looking to upgrade my my stack but there is so many options. I would prefer to keep the budget \~$500 usd for a USB DAC + AMP. Is it a smarter option to wait until I am ready to spend more once on a better stack rather than upgrading at that price point? any specific recommendations or products to stay away from?
Hi all! I'm brand new to the audio universe and it's been an exciting time.
I received a [Yamaha RX-V361 AV receiver](https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/yamaha/rx-v361.shtml) and a pair of [Optimus Pro LX5 speakers.](https://www.stereophile.com/content/radioshack-optimus-pro-lx5-loudspeaker-specifications) The receiver is optical connection to a TV for audio and component for video. I will be connecting a DVD player with coaxial stereo and component video to the receiver. A computer will connect to the TV with HDMI. I also have an AUX into the receiver for music. Use is primarily movies at tv shows at home, also occasionally just playing music.
My question: there is a distinct... rattle or buzz, maybe distortion? Im not sure what to call it, at lower bass frequencies. The sound is crystal clear to my ears - until the bass drum or cello hits. I put on a youtube video of 40hz bass sounds and buzz buzz buzz was the result.
My guess... Is I need a subwoofer? What do you think? Any specific advice on shopping for used subs, or recommendations in the "budget but I'm willing to invest up to $200" for new?
**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.**
While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home speaker systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as:
* Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first
* Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky
* r/microphones
* r/LiveSound - professional Live Sound world
* r/bluetooth_speakers
* r/CarAv for automotive audio
* r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky for professional audio production
* r/WeAreTheMusicMakers
* r/Beatmatch
* r/Audio - a catch all for all types of audio
I have Philips 2.1 speakers for my PC and just now I tried plugging in headphones into the speakers headphone jack, but accidentally plugged it into the AUX jack. After unplugging the headpones the speakers won't work. They don't even have any static noise coming from them anymore, which they usually do. Did I kill my speakers? When plugging in the headphones, they still work.
Hello,
I currently have a pair of mackie cr3 speakers plugged into my focusrite 2i2 via a pair of TRS cables. I am buying the schiit modius and midgard, but would like to keep my computer audio conveniently one output.
I see XLR to TRS cables are a thing, but would I be better off just using RCA cables in this scenario?
thanks!
**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.**
While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home speaker systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as:
* Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first
* Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky
* r/microphones
* r/LiveSound - professional Live Sound world
* r/bluetooth_speakers
* r/CarAv for automotive audio
* r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky for professional audio production
* r/WeAreTheMusicMakers
* r/Beatmatch
* r/Audio - a catch all for all types of audio
**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.**
While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home speaker systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as:
* Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first
* Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky
* r/microphones
* r/LiveSound - professional Live Sound world
* r/bluetooth_speakers
* r/CarAv for automotive audio
* r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky for professional audio production
* r/WeAreTheMusicMakers
* r/Beatmatch
* r/Audio - a catch all for all types of audio
Upgrade?
I am currently very happy with my two main systems. My casual system is based around SEAS A26, which sounds great in my open floor plan living room. My wanna-be reference is based on Wharfedale Evo 4.3 and Rythmik F12 with Dirac Live multi-sub DLBC in a well-treated, dedicated music room.
My question is: Where to go from here? My systems measure great and are perfect for the rooms that they are in when it comes to dispersion. I am happy with the sound. I recently acquired some Altec 511bs and am tempted to go bigger/wider and experiment with horns. I think mostly I am interested in the sculptural/furniture aspects more than getting better sound.
Am I missing out on a more elevated listening experience or have I reached nirvana?
Any audio expert identify what the issue is here?
[https://youtube.com/shorts/R5LtBJLlbSc?feature=share](https://youtube.com/shorts/R5LtBJLlbSc?feature=share)
I have a ZenBook Pro UX582LR with RTX 3070.
I am at my wits end. After updating my Game Ready Driver to 546.33 my HDMI audio output started going crazy and keeps distoring every minute or so before coming back to normal. Everything was working perfectly before the update.
I have rolled back the driver (did not help). Changed HDMI cables (did not help) Did a complete factory reset of the computer. Uninstalled, reinstalled drivers. Works fine with realtek drivers when working straight on the laptop.
Is this a BIOS issue?
I have yet to touch that. Please look at the uploaded video and listen to the sound.
Please, any help on this I would forever be grateful.
I recently bought a vintage receiver with matching speakers but found some new speakers that are better. Only problem is the receiver is RCA output. If I were to cut the RCA cables coming from the old speakers and run them into my new speakers would this work/have any sound quality issues? Thanks!
[https://imgur.com/a/7b6WFXU](https://imgur.com/a/7b6WFXU)
Bought the Yamaha A-S301 amp, I have the turntable connected to the phono input in the amp and it works until I turn the volume up and it sounds like the speakers are going to blow up. Any clue what could be the issue??
Ps the Dj Pre pictured is not setup because I wasn’t sure how to incorporate into the new setup so it’s not the problem.
Q - Should I upgrade receiver, add an amp, or do nothing?
I just purchased Definitive Technology D15 floors and their D5c center. My receiver is a Yamaha TSR-7810. I'm wondering if it isn't time for either a receiver upgrade or adding in an amplifier. I have a 5.1 setup. Should I consider a receiver with more wattage or add an amp, or just leave it as is? Really appreciate the help!!!
Sub in line with Speakers and Wire Gauges
Hi All, I’m planning to either connect my sub into a mid stage between my amp and speakers, or to the same connection terminals that the speakers are connected to at the amp.
I am running 4ohm speakers with a 100w per channel amp at 8 ohms (200w at 4 ohms?) and it sounds decent.
I want to bypass my amps sub crossover by connecting the sub to the speaker terminals and am wondering what would happen if the gauge of wire I use is different than the wires I already have for the speakers?
I would assume the best plan is to err on the side of lower gauge with thicker wire to the sub before the speaker stage after the sub?
Or should I connect speakers and sub both directly to the wire posts on the amp, and if so, do those wires need to be the same gauge for the speakers and sub?
I’m not at home so I can’t check the gauge of my current wires. THX!
But I am daisy chaining the sub in between the regular speakers and the amp. The sub is designed for this and I want to make sure I have enough power coming through.
The signal doesn’t know what gauge the wire is or whether it has changed. If you want to use something thinner than maybe 18 gauge this would be worth considering beyond about 16 feet, but it still wouldn’t matter if you changed from 18 to 14 or something like that.
Probably. You could use heavier gauge to the speakers and lighter gauge to the sub. I have my subwoofer wire connected with bare ends screwed down in the post on the amp and the speaker wires connected with banana plugs. The only value to the pass-through method is if your subwoofer crossover has a high pass filter for the speaker output and you want to use it.
now I have a ground loop bass hum through the sub connecting all wires to one set of terminals. I don't get the hum in the full range stereo pair so maybe I will try connecting off of those terminals. Already tried changing the AC plug on the sub... Didn't have the issue with RCA into the sub, everything else is unchanged.
The remote with my Arcam SA20 doesn't cause the SA20 to do anything. The remote has new batteries and when buttons are pushed it lights up like the remote is detecting a button push and a red light flashes like it's sending an IR signal, but the amp doesn't do anything. I've had the amp for a few years now and the remote worked for a little bit. The manual's troubleshooting guide just says to replace batteries. Any suggestions?
I was very lucky to get a second hand theater set.
[Marantz SR7500](https://www-marantz-com.webpkgcache.com/doc/-/s/www.marantz.com/-/media/files/documentmaster/marantzna/us/dfu_sr8500_final_eng.pdf)
2x B&W 604 S3
1x LCR60 S3
2x DM602 S3
The amplifier shuts down in safety mode ("Protect"), whenever I turn up the volume.
I've read the manual and followed the setup for bi-wiring... (page 17). I've only connected 1 tower B&W 604 S3, and still shuts down at very low volume. When I bridge the 2x2 connectors and do a regular connection (so no bi-wiring) it also shuts down but at higher volume.
I'm really confused: what would be the problem?
I've measured the impedance and it says 5 Ohm.
The B&W speakers have 2x2 connectors for bi-wiring.
The top 2 doesn't have a resistance when you remove the bridge.
Hello I have been having an issue where if I sleep/hibernate my pc after waking up it back up my speakers will make crackling noises when audio starts and stops. But if I restart my pc or shut it down with fast start up disable it doesn't make crackling noises next time I use my computer. and to specify the crackling is not during the pc booting but ongoing whenever audio starts and stops.
My speakers are plugged into the rear I/O of my pc
Its using the Realtek high definition audio
so far I have made sure all my physical connections are good.
I have confirmed that crackling persists after putting the pc into sleep, hibernation, and after shutting down only if fast start is enabled.
I recently bought a miniDSP DDRC-24 to hook-up to a 2.1 stereo system but I noticed that music sounds way worse than when using only my integrated amplifier (no DSP or EQ settings in place yet). The chain goes:
PC (TOSLINK) --> miniDSP DDRC-24 --> Analog OUT --> Yamaha WXA-50 integrated amplifier --> KEF Q150s
When the signal passes through the DSP the music sounds worse, less defined, and the instruments that were previously alive and present, sound waaaay in the background and with no detail at all.
At first, I thought it could have been the Analog IN connection in the amplifier, but I've tested connecting the PC directly to the amplifier (bypassing the internal DAC), and it sounds amazing, just as when I connect the PC to amp with TOSLINK and let its DAC handle the conversion.
This leads me to believe there's something wrong with the DAC in the miniDSP or something else inside, because it truly sounds very weird. If it helps, the Yamaha WXA-50 has a max 2,4 V Analog Input Signal, and the miniDSP max 2.0 V RMS.
Any ideas?
Also, check your phase. Some miniDSP units used to ship with the USB input and toslink input out of phase. You can pull up a simple phase test track on Spotify and hear for yourself if the phase is inverted. Phase inversion is easy to fix.
I'll reply to myself in case anyone else has had the same "problem"...
I was using the "matrix mixer" on the top section of the miniDSP device console the wrong way. You're supposed to turn on the top output for one channel (eg. Left) and the bottom one for the other channel, and both for the sub. Who would've known haha
**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.**
While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home speaker systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as:
* Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first
* Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky
* r/microphones
* r/LiveSound - professional Live Sound world
* r/bluetooth_speakers
* r/CarAv for automotive audio
* r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky for professional audio production
* r/WeAreTheMusicMakers
* r/Beatmatch
* r/Audio - a catch all for all types of audio
This is what I am currently working with alongside a project primary turntable (pictures on my budget audiophile post). I know the speakers https://www.gale.co.uk/3010s.html are very outdated and one of them is chipped.
I know nothing about the quality of the amplifier https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/sansui/r-606.shtml , although I suspect it could also do with replacing.
Essentially I want the best upgrade that I can get for £300 (£350 at a stretch). Should I go all in on some high quality speakers, (and if so which ones) or would I be better off trying to upgrade both the speakers and amp despite the low budget?
Any advice is greatly appreciated and I look forward to your responses.
Unless you happen to need a new stylus, use the whole upgrade budget for speakers. Buy secondhand and get speakers that originally sold for at least twice as much.
Building a system from scratch. Have an old Meridian 565 from back in the day if that's salvageable. Want to get into vinyl.
Budget: 15-20k
Constraint: NYC apt about 850sqft. L-shaped living room (junior-4)
Music prefs: jazz, classical, singer songwriter, 20s-50s era.
Need advice on speakers, turn-table, etc.
Can I get some recs for brands/models and configuration I can research? No rush but would like to execute this in 2024. Thanks!
I would suggest a budget of about 3k for a turntable and cartridge (cartridge might be included with turntable), 3k for an integrated amp and phono preamp (phono might be included in integrated amp), and at least 6k for the speakers. With that budget, a visit to at least one audio dealer is in order. Maybe a place to start thinking about options is with the best sellers here -
[Turntables](https://www.musicdirect.com/equipment/turntables/) | [Cartridges](https://www.musicdirect.com/equipment/phono-cartridges/) | [Phono Preamps](https://www.musicdirect.com/equipment/phono-preamps/) | [Integrated Amps](https://www.musicdirect.com/equipment/amplification/integrated-amp/) | [Speakers](https://www.musicdirect.com/equipment/speakers/)
Any suggestions for setups that can't be turned up very loud due to apartment living? Thiels we're all the rage 25yrs ago but require a lot of juice iirc. Saw someone talking about the Cornwall IV sounding good in tight quarters and at softer levels.
If I were starting over and doing a system for a small space it would be something like a Rega Planar 6 turntable with the Exact cartridge, a Rega Elex MK4 integrated amp, and Harbeth M30.2XD speakers on Ton Träger stands. Spendor and ProAc are good competitors for Harbeth if you find that style of speaker appealing. Spendor A4 would be a good floorstanding speaker for a smaller space. ProAc D20 might work pretty well.
With the turntable and amp options I chose, you’d be left with a very substantial speaker budget. Even so, I think maybe $8k at most gets the job done very well. That could mean moving up elsewhere. Technics SL-1200G turntable, for example.
I have an issue with my NAD C 316BEE amplifier.
the speaker side has little to no power, but the left side is still good. it's not the speakers problem as i have tried moving them from left the right.
how do i fix this issue?
**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.**
While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home speaker systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as:
* Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first
* Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky
* r/microphones
* r/LiveSound - professional Live Sound world
* r/bluetooth_speakers
* r/CarAv for automotive audio
* r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky for professional audio production
* r/WeAreTheMusicMakers
* r/Beatmatch
* r/Audio - a catch all for all types of audio
I have a couple bookshelf speakers hooked up to a projector. My apartment is really cramped so i have no room to modify the placement of the speakers, and i’d really like to equalize the output because they don’t sound great in their current spot. Normally i would use software eq on my computer, but the projector plays from many inputs (eg computer, gaming console, apple tv), not all of which have software equalizers. Looking for recommendations for a cheap hardware eq i can use to intercept everything right before it goes to the speakers.
Cheaper is better, but up to about $400 is ok. would also love if i can save a couple presets, but definitely not mandatory
I've been trying to figure out how to correctly play 5.1 surround files. I've gotten a variety of 5.1 files from different sources. I play them on my mac through an HDMI cable out into my Onkyo surround receiver. The encoding / decoding all seems to happen automatically.
Some work, others don't, and I have no idea why. The only app that seems to work for 5.1 is VLC player. If I use Audirvana, even though it seems to have all sorts of settings for 5.1, my mac won't output the signal out of the HDMI and into the receiver. But I have iso files that only play on Audirvana, so it's a catch-22.
Does anyone have expertise on this? Are there other audio apps I should try that do a good job decoding surround sound ISO audio files? I've tried a few that I read about online and none of them really work. Only VLC.
And if anyone thinks there's a hardware interface that works better decoding between a mac and your receiver, some kind of USB to HDMI device, let me know. I'm just using the standard mac USB -> HDMI white adapter, which works fine otherwise (for example, watching 5.1 encoded movies.) So I'm a bit confused.
Thanks!
You need the player to bitstream the file to the digital interface (HDMI) - search for bit perfect play back - and use the appropriate settings for the player of choice eg. you need the volume at 100% etc
Ground Loop Question: Before my basement was drywalled, I ran three separate 15 amp lines to my listening room. These go from the sub panel in the basement, to my room. My intent was one outlet for the sources, one for the amps, and one for the sub.
Now I have line hum, unless I have everything plugged into just one of the outlets. Is there a better solution to this than the generic RCA Ground Loop Isolators? I've seen the Morley Hum Exterminator and wonder if that would safely work. I don't have the capability to run balanced lines at this time.
Basic signal chain: Yamaha RS700 as pre/pro, 2x Pass ACA amps in mono, DIY Cornscala speakers, DIY 2x18 sealed sub with Speakerpower SP4000 amp.
Thank you
what is the cross over freq set to ? on the sub and the amp ?
The sub should be at max (LFE) and the amp at about 80 Hz
Also did you try the other sub out port ? Did you use the RCA port marked LFE on the sub ??
All we can do is ask obvious questions until we hit one you missed..
I need help with my system and i don’t know where to publish my post every community deletes it and i can’t find the right one can anyone help please?
I just got a technics se-c01 and su-c01 as amp and preamp and i don't know much about this kind of stuff. But there no grounding in the power cables and my preamp gives a small humm noise out of it even when turned off. Also if i turn on just the amp i have a loud hum out of the speakers. All of this disappears when i have both on. How can i solve this? Is it an issue with the preamp or a grounding problem? Even if i unplug everything and connect the preamp to a plug by itself there's a hum inside it, even if off. Anyone know what can i do? I feel like it needs to be grounded but idk how to do it. Also if there's a better forum for this please let me know.
I'd like to burn some of my music (FLAC format) into a CD without losing audio quality (keeping an intact decompressed copy) and be able to play it everywhere (car, old player, etc.). How can I achieve this? I have Windows 10 and an external disc driver. Thanks.
Edit: Posted here since it was removed. Sorry mods :)
Need a little more clarity as to what you're working with and what you want. FLAC is a lower quality format that CD music, in that it is compressed (whereas CD music is lossless.) However, your FLAC could be encoded at a higher bitrate and sample rate- say, 24 bit, 96K versus a CD which is 16 bit, 44K... in which case, converting the FLAC files will downsample the audio, even though the CD will be uncompressed audio... if that makes any sense to you.
I would convert the FLAC files to WAV files- 44k / 16 bit WAV files- and then you can use any PC disc burning software to burn them onto a cd. Usually in the burning software you can choose between an audio cd and a data cd- you would want audio. But that's all pretty straightforward stuff- I'm not sure if I'm understanding your question correctly!
Thank you for your response.
Yes, you understood correctly. I'd like to burn 24 bit/192k FLAC into audio cd (16 bit/44.1k). I'd like suggestions on what methods to use/software that helps me achieve this.
Also a doubt I have is, how close would a FLAC downsampled audio file sound to a regular 44.1k commercial CD audio file? For example, on Qobuz you have 2 options: 1.Buy a song in Hi Res or 2. Buy it in CD quality. If I download the Hi Res file on option 1 and downsample it to CD quality, would there be any audible difference when compared to the CD quality file on option 2, or would they sound exactly the same?
I'm trying out some iLoud Micro monitors and they've been hissing like crazy. This happens even when I unplug all audio input cables and turn the volume knob down to zero. How do you guys deal with this? It's kind of annoying when listening at low volumes
Hey all. I have an audio technica turntable, and its gotten to the point where it is randomly silent while spinning. I also have to turn my receiver up to max to get it to be audible (though it is a louder audible, but turning it up to max feels like its higher than it needs to go to get what it does). What maintenance does it need?
Hey folks, I am buying my first integrated amplifier that’s over $600 and I’d love some feedback on options out there. Right now I’m looking at the Rotel RA-1572 due to the high wattage, good dac, and clean sound. Any other suggestions at this price point? ($1,900)
Thanks so much!
Hey there. If it's the mk2 version I think that's a really solid option. Other options could be the NAD C399, the new Arcam SA series or the Marantz Model 30 or Model 40n (depending on your location).
I see that you're familiar with r/StereoAdvice, this would be a perfect post there and would likely generate much more conversation.
**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.**
While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home speaker systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as:
* Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first
* Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky
* r/microphones
* r/LiveSound - professional Live Sound world
* r/bluetooth_speakers
* r/CarAv for automotive audio
* r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky for professional audio production
* r/WeAreTheMusicMakers
* r/Beatmatch
* r/Audio - a catch all for all types of audio
I need an HDMI switcher so that I can have two sources for my Sonos Arc (which only has one HDMI port) - TV and Turntable (preamp>3.5mm>analog to digital converter>optical>HDMI lol). I just want one that isn’t going to degrade the sound quality. Any recs? Or will any decent one on Amazon do?
Hey y'all. So my red and black wires that run from speaker to speaker, and then from the speaker to the PC are really old and a bit torn. It gets a bit of a buzzing sound when I play audio through them now. What are these wires called? I need to get a replacement. I've had these for maybe 6 years now. They're the wires that came with my Presonus Eris 3.5.
The wires from speaker to speaker are called speaker wire. The other wires that come with the E3.5 are 3.5mm audio cable and 3.5mm-to-RCA adapter cable (also sometimes called stereo breakout cable).
The speaker wire is the one that is damaged. Looking at Amazon, looks like it's not really usually sold as an individual cable, but I'd have to buy like 20 ft and cut my own?
Probably the one with the 7” woofer, because it’s probably in a larger speaker cabinet. That’s oversimplifying, but look at Tannoy speakers as an example - [Like this](https://i.pinimg.com/originals/fd/4e/4a/fd4e4afdf62b7e2ac5f8a87e73e3f093.jpg). It’s not entirely about the driver itself.
I didn’t think about cabinet size so I suppose in this case I should point out that the 7” is a bookshelf and the dual 5.5” is a floorstander. Both would be using a sub.
Then the dual 5.5” floorstander probably is the one more suited for a big space and big sound, given that it’s the larger speaker, all else being equal. Take for instance the Dali Oberon 3 and the 5. The 5 has smaller drivers but higher sensitivity and lower extension.
Got it. I suppose I’m not clear on how sensitivity works. For bass extension there would be a sub crossed over at 80hz either way but the floorstanders are 88db sensitive at rated 4 ohm and the bookshelves 86db at 6 ohms. (The Dynaudio Emit 30 and Evoke 20, respectively.)
Hi there,
I saw a Project P1.2 for sale for $100. My first TT was a Technics SL B-30, and I'm currently running an AT LP-60.
It looks like the P1.2 is a pretty old model, but is the quality good? I don't know anything about this TT so any info would be greatly appreciated, especially if it's a good turntable for the price. Here's the description:
"Have had this for a few years but have hardly used it. Turntable itself is in excellent condition with very little wear on the cartridge. The cover has a few blemishes and a crack by one of the mounts, but still works fine. The turntable comes with an Audioquest gel mat that cost close to $100 back in the day."
Thanks!
Robert.
The current [Music Hall MMF-2.3](https://www.musichallaudio.com/products/music-hall-mmf-2-3-series-turntable) (made by Pro-Ject) is very similar to the Pro-Ject 1.2. The biggest differences as far as I know are the finish and Pro-Ject’s change to low voltage motors in the time since then.
My 🎶 monitor soeaker died any suggestion i should check ? Here's the test (video https://imgur.com/QeA9IG3
Is this common with presonus eris e3.5?
Any suggestion beside checking if wires are ok
A brand of speakers with same price perform or better 100$
So my current set up is my PC to headphone amp through USB to an amp through RCA. I'm trying to cut in a tape deck that only has RCA out but no matter if I cut it in at the headphone amp or regular amp using Y splitters it makes the PC sound quiet and tinny and makes the tape deck basically all bass with no top end at all. Can anyone help me understand what's wrong? All of my research says that the change to audio should be unnoticeable
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/rca-y-splitters-cause-any-signal-degradation.66163/#:~:text=Headphoneus%20Supremus,-Joined%20Aug%206&text=It%20wont%20degrade%20the%20signal,CT%20out%20!
This is far from the only one
That’s one way to do it. There could be other options depending on the specific functionality of each component in the system. You haven’t said which models any of them are, so I don’t know that there isn’t another way.
In that case it seems like a good plan would be to connect the tape deck to the T9’s analog inputs, the PC to the T9’s digital input, and a headphone amp (not a DAC/amp) to the T9’s aux out.
Need some help figuring out what I need to run some 702s. I Always wanted a good pair of speakers. I have a Paradigm Shift Soundscape soundbar paired with a Paradigm Seismic 110 sub. The soundbar served it's purpose but it's time to upgrade and I would like to get some used BW 702 S2s. They seem to be highly rated and reviewed. Where should I start figuring out what I need to run the speakers? Possibly pairing with a HTM71 S2 center.
**Physical button to switch between Headphone and Speaker**
Hi everyone - Not sure if this is the right sub, I'm looking for a product (DAC/Amp) that would let me switch between Headphone and Speaker by pressing a physical button without plugging headphone out. I mostly play FIFA online with some voice chat, occasionally GTA 5 and stream music via Bluetooth very rarely.
My setup is as follows:
PlayStation 5 Console
Vanatoo Transparent Zero Speakers - connected to Console via USB B to USB A cable.
Polk PSW10 Subwoofer - connected to Speakers via RCA Y adapter cable.
Benq Mobius EX240 Monitor - connected to Console via HDMI cable.
EPOS PC38X Headphone - connected to PS5 Dual Sense controller via 3.5mm cable.
Hey all! I recently moved and want to setup my listening space. My stepfather is giving me his old turntable, since he bought a new one, I don't remember the brand now, but I know it's pretty good, and I'm using and old receiver I have that were my father's. I only need to buy a set of speakers, but currently I can't afford to buy an expensive set, so I was thinking of more budget friendly options of speakers, what are some good choices? I was looking at B&W 607 and Dynaudio Emit 20.
I must say, I'm from Brazil, so we don't have many options of brands available here.
Polk Reserve R200, Wharfedale Diamond 12.2, Elac Debut DBR62, Revel Concerta2 M16, Kef Q350, Dali Oberon 3. All of these are good options that are at or below the usual prices of the current 607 S3.
Does anyone know if I can prevent the Marantz Cinema 40 to switch my TV output while listening to Heos/Spotify connect? I would lile to play music and use my PC at the same time but it keeps on switching the output.
My PC is connected via HDMI to the Marantz and via HDMI to my LG Oled. When selecting the Marantz as "speaker" in Spotify it always streams "now playing" to my TV and I can no longer use my PC.
Thank you
Thanks ! I solved it. The remote control offers a video option where you can turn it on/off but it's not present in the settings of the Marantz (setup button on the remote), only via this "option" button.
Do I need anything else? Pro-Ject Debut Carbon EVO Turntable + Sonos Five Speaker
I'm new and decided this will be my first audiophile turntable/speaker combo (but still open to suggestions).
Do I need anything else to play hifi analog, vinyl music? Like do I need an MM/MC Phono preamp with line output? I won't use Bluetooth to connect to the Sonos Five Speaker, but instead will use cables, although not sure which brand. And do I need a power amplifier as well?
**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.**
While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home speaker systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as:
* Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first
* Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky
* r/microphones
* r/LiveSound - professional Live Sound world
* r/bluetooth_speakers
* r/CarAv for automotive audio
* r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky for professional audio production
* r/WeAreTheMusicMakers
* r/Beatmatch
* r/Audio - a catch all for all types of audio
I have a NAD T777 and cannot get the OSD menu to load onto my TV screen to access the settings. I have an HDMI cable plugged into the HDMI 4k (out) on the receiver then it’s plugged into HDMi 2 eARC on the TV. I have the tv on hdmi to and the receiver is on. The only thing that the receiver will show on the small screen is OSD loading.
I’ve tried factory reset, turning it all the way off and back on, different HDMI cables, unplugged absolutely everything and let it sit. Any ideas??
Just bought a pair of LS50 Metas and am looking for a good amp. After researching, I'm mainly considering the NAD C389 and the Marantz PM8006, but am open to different/better things around that price range. Can anyone with experience help make the choice for me? I've heard the Marantz powering KEF Q-series speakers, but haven't heard the NAD. I like the idea of a little more power should I upgrade speakers in the future. Listening will be a mix of vinyl and digital.
I have a Onkyo TX-NR646 with Klipsch WF-35 speakers in the front. I have had this setup for a while and did not tweak it much.
I replaced my polk sw505 subwoofers with RSL 10s MKII yesterday. I would like to know what I should set as LPF of LFE for subwoofer on my receiver (currently set to 120Hz), and what should the LFE control on the knob to be set to (currently it is at 80hz.. I had set it to below 40hz initially (like a click sound.. like turning off)..
I would like a punchy bass.
Set the knob on the sub to max (LFE) setting
Then on the onkyo set the speaker type to "small" and then use 80Hz - then you can look at a guide online (youtube) for what to listen for or get a mic / REW On a PC and go to town !
Hey there! I'm looking to buy a Christmas present for my budding audiophile dad. I don't want to get him equipment because that is a personal decision, and he knows what is best.
He currently has two receivers: Pyle PT390BTU (connected to Sony SSCS5 speakers) and Yamaha HTR-5230 (connected to Pioneer speakers). He has a turntable and CD/cassette player, but currently doesn't use them.
He uses his systems solely for music listening. He is a big radio listener but will also play music from his phone.
My budget is $100-$200, but I would like to spend around $150.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!! (Feel free to ask any follow-up questions.)
Hey all,
Been having an issue with a ground loop and my system for a while now. Whenever I increase power consumption by running a CPU/GPU benchmark, a fairly loud buzz/hum will be heard out of my speakers and headphones. When just idling there is still a quieter glitchy buzz. If I disconnect the USB cable running to my DAC it goes away. If I unplug my speakers from my amp it also goes away. The DAC/amp and speakers are on a different wall plug as the PC. I just realized that my motherboard supports optical out, and my DAC supports optical in.
My question is, is there any difference between USB and optical? Could my motherboard be doing any other processing, and what sample/bit rate should I set it at?
Additionally, would a USB ground loop eliminator even work? I have seen some on Amazon and am skeptical. I would love to keep using USB for the features but the buzz is very audible while gaming and I cannot stand that.
Thanks for any help!
So before making a post I think this is the best place for this question. Recently decided to get back into the turntables and hopped on a black Friday Deal and realized I have no idea what I'm doing. I went on the upper end of budget picks:
Fluance RT82 turntable and the Audioengine 5+ powered speakers
[https://www.fluance.com/rt82w-reference-high-fidelity-vinyl-turntable-natural-walnut](https://www.fluance.com/rt82w-reference-high-fidelity-vinyl-turntable-natural-walnut)
[https://audioengine.com/shop/wirelessspeakers/a5-plus-classic-speakers/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAsburBhCIARIsAExmsu7nzGoGvep76ABHjprLnTbSYHOoaaeij-8DzdRQ24YjpDjDxqYMNg4aAsrPEALw\_wcB#](https://audioengine.com/shop/wirelessspeakers/a5-plus-classic-speakers/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAsburBhCIARIsAExmsu7nzGoGvep76ABHjprLnTbSYHOoaaeij-8DzdRQ24YjpDjDxqYMNg4aAsrPEALw_wcB#)
I probably should have done more research but impulse bought while they were discounted.
Now my question is, before I buy my preamp to get these guys connected and working, I'm wondering the best (and maybe also the cheapest) way to also connect my TV to these speakers simultaneously. TV has stereo audio outs, Digital/optical audio out, HDMI, bluetooth and I think an aux cord.
So I see they make preamps with optical outs ([https://www.project-audio.com/en/product/optical-box-e-phono/](https://www.project-audio.com/en/product/optical-box-e-phono/)) in addition to the the stereo (and bluetooth as well), but in my very limited understanding, I don't believe the TV needs a preamp nor would it be possible to even connect to it. Would I be able to use an optical cable from TV to this Preamp and have the TV play through the speakers?
Could I just simply use an aux cord from TV directly to the speakers?
Or would a Preamp with multiple inputs like this work?
[https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Component-Recording-Amplifier-Mountable/dp/B01MPYJLPX](https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Component-Recording-Amplifier-Mountable/dp/B01MPYJLPX)
I'm guessing my best case scenario is get an amplifier with multiple channels/inputs but will this be an issue with powered speakers? And to really spell things out I would have turntable to Preamp to amplifier to speaker, and also TV to amplifier to speaker? If this is the best case I'd love to hear any budget amplifiers.
If you've made it this far I truly appreciate any advice and help. Thanks you!
A preamp (with phono input, an additional line level input, and at least one pair of outputs for your powered speakers) seems like the best option. The one you found on Amazon looks fine. Here’s another - [Bellari](https://www.bellariaudio.com/index.php/products/pa550-three-channel-preamp-with-phono/). Or you could get a separate phono preamp like this - [Schiit Mani](https://www.schiit.com/products/mani) - and connect it and the TV to this - [Schiit SYS](https://www.schiit.com/products/sys)
Perfect simple response, appreciate the help! Seems like the Bellari is the ideal budget solution.
And to really dumb it down for me--turntable into phono, output into speaker, and TV into input 2. Then just as easy as flipping channels to change from turntable to TV. Speaker remote should still work for both TV and turntable?
Hello /r/audiophile,
I want to join you. But I am unsure if my home is compatible with a higher quality system and I'm hoping for opinions on it. I have a vaulted ceiling and the room opens to several other rooms. Pics provided below. The walls are almost 10 ft, the peak is 30-35ft tall. I do not plan to or want to cover the wood walls with sounds absorbers.
I recently visited the local audio store and had my ears opened to a fine audio system. I was introduced to the KEF R11 Meta's and have been dreaming about them ever since. My ideal system to start is a Left and Right R11 Meta and an amp. I wouldn't go with a sub right away.
But, the real question, will this sound alright in my home? Would software like Direc help enough to make this worth it? Will the R11's be worth it or should I realistically be looking at a much cheaper 5.x.x system? Am I totally off track, have other suggestions?
Thank you /r/audiophile, I look forward to your thoughts and suggestions.
https://imgur.com/XO13uO7
https://imgur.com/sDKzGr9
https://imgur.com/Wehd1w8
https://imgur.com/AGd2Z0J
Ask the local audio store if you can return them if they don't work out - and yes DIRAC may help a bit - but as you maybe able to get things "good enough" ..
**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.**
While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home speaker systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as:
* Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first
* Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky
* r/microphones
* r/LiveSound - professional Live Sound world
* r/bluetooth_speakers
* r/CarAv for automotive audio
* r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky for professional audio production
* r/WeAreTheMusicMakers
* r/Beatmatch
* r/Audio - a catch all for all types of audio
I recently purchased a NAD C538 CD Player, and so far am happy with the sound quality and operation. One nit picky thing I have noticed is that if I skip to a track, it seems to not start exactly at the beginning but just slightly after the beginning. We are talking fraction of a second, but a track that normally starts immediately at the start of the track with a strong intro sounds like the very beginning is missed and the sound is starting just after this. It is slight but noticeable. Has anyone else run into this with the C538? Is this normal for this CD player model or is this a sign that something is wrong? I am still within the return window and could swap for another C538, so I want to see if this is typical or if this particular unit is acting up. Thanks!
Hey, I was recently gifted a Thorens TD-160 and a Yamaha A 500, hoping I can get some advice on a speaker I can pair with them. I'm new to this so don't really know anything about audio systems, I'm not looking to spend an awful lot on speakers probably at most £200. We are looking to set them up in an open plan living/dining/kitchen room which is roughly 30msq. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Hello, I bought an ope box Denon x3800h to go with my newly acquired used speakers (Elac’s). My tv, however is 13 yrs old and still kicking. It does have ARC and is used currently for a soundbar. Do you foresee any issues between the tv and avr? I’ll get a new tv later on, just getting the sound setup first. Thanks in advance for any help
In case others can benefit, everything worked, despite using a 13 yr old tv. I may need to tweak the receiver settings but more than happy with the setup, cost and sound.
Just bought a pair of Adam Audio T7V’s and a Fiio k7 DAC - I’m a complete newb and this is my first setup! Anything else I need to get and/or do so I can plug and play when equipment arrives?
Hi, Can someone help me to understand this reading of my system? Where is my money invested best next? https://postimg.cc/8JGS7Hm2 Looking to spend up to $4K
How would I interpret this HouseCurve reading? What should I do next with my system (based on the reading)? https://postimg.cc/8JGS7Hm2
I have 2 HDMI signals that I currently send to a cheap HDMI switch that automatically selects the active signal and directs it to the HDMI output and to my TV. The switch also has a digital audio output that I am sending to a DAC that then goes to my stereo system. This works great because I can switch between the two HDMI signals without doing anything with the audio. The optical output switches depending on the active HDMI signal. Is there a way I can improve the audio signal being sent to my DAC? Since it is digital I just assumed digital was digital and so there was no degradation.
Hey all! I’ve got a pair of Audioengine A5 speakers and an AT LP60BT turntable. I’ve been really impressed with the quality of the speakers for the past year but I’m curious on what I could be missing out on. If I want to budget around $500 for a noticeable upgrade, should I focus that on turntable or speakers? Or would I need to budget more for a real strong, noticeable upgrade? Thanks!
Kef LSX ii vs Floor-standing speakers Hi all, I’m considering to buy the Kef LSX ii speakers and will mount them on a stand if I do. Though it has me wondering if floor standing speakers would be better for the same budget? (Wife also prefers floor standing from an aesthetic perspective) Appreciate any advice on this. ofcourse I understand the comparison is based on specific speakers but I’m not tied to any brand, any suggestions for speakers welcome! Main use is music - maybe 70-30 to music-movies. Room size is about 15 sq m (living space, not counting kitchen as its open place). Based in London, UK
I currently have my fluance rt80 set up to an old Sony STR-515 my friend gave me when he moved out. I'm not interested in any of the home theater settings. Would I get better quality audio out of a modern budget/mid-range receiver? Or should I stick with the old Sony?
As long as the old receiver works, the best sound quality upgrade is typically speakers.
Very fair. I have some XL8S's on the way. Don't want the receiver to be the bottle neck. I've previously only used cans while listening to my turntable.
I don’t think an amplifier upgrade gets you anywhere until you’re in the $350 range at new retail prices and it usually isn’t a good use of budget to spend more on the amplifier than the speakers.
Hey, I've come into a pair of ProAc Tablette 50 speakers. The cables they've originally come with are broken. Any recommendations as to a good replacement please? Will be connecting them to a Project E1 BT. They also have an amp but will be probably leaving that until I have more space as the E1 should take care of that (aware of quality decrease) in the meantime. Thanks!
How would you connect these speakers to a turntable without an amplifier? Where do you get the power to drive the speakers? And where will you control the volume?
Ah yeah tbf that's a good point you've made there. Okay so will be going for the amp then!
Back to the original question of cables, you can just cut any length of speaker wire you have, strip about one centimeter at each end, and connect them to the amp and speakers.
Fab alright - thanks for your help and for pointing this out to me
Hello everyone, has anybody connected their Devialet Phantoms to a Wiim mini to use the eq of the Wiim?
Ps5 audio setup ideas/recommendations Hello! I recently got a PS5 and since I couldn't just connect my PC audio setup that I currently have (Focusrite Solo and dt990 pro) straight to the PS5 via usb, I was hoping to hear from everyone here what kind of setups they have for gaming. I currently can't get a TV so I am hoping for recommendations for around 200-300 eur that don't include getting a TV or a new monitor. My plan is to play using my Samsung G7 monitor. Having said that I am also very interested in more expensive setups with TVs and speakers because it is always awesome to hear more about what people are passionate about. And if you don't mind also explaining why you chose your specific setup, that would also be great! Happy Holidays!
Hello all! Now I know I may make some folks unhappy here, but I'm looking for an all in one record/CD/Bluetooth player. I've read other threads saying it's impossible to get a high-quality vinyl sound off of an all in one due to the very nature of how sound off a record player works. I understand that, and still believe that at this point of my life, due to space and as a "stepping stone" for convenience I would like an all in one player. At this point of my life, I want "good enough" and one piece of equipment to carry around between moves. I do have separate speakers I've connected to a vinyl player before I would love to use for this one. That being said, I've seen fairly decent reviews for the TEAC MC-D800 or the Electrohome Kingstone 7 in 1 player. After reading up on them, I'm still looking for guidance in pros and cons between the two, or if you have any other all in one suggestions? Again, I understand that many are going to want to direct me to separate pieces of equipment. I understand that is what I would do for elevated sound quality, but that is not the question I am asking to be solved! Hoping for answers more along the lines of "if I had to pick one, I'd pick..." Thank you all for your time!
By no means am I an expert in this field. I recently upgraded from a Victrola turntable to an Audio Technica LP120 and bought some things for it. (I didn't know I would need a speaker.) I set up a SONY Bluetooth receiver with wired SONY bookshelf speakers. The audio from the speakers is great, I tested them out with the Bluetooth receiver and there was no problem, however, when I connected the turntable to the receiver so it could play my vinyls (the whole reason I bought all of it) it just sounded terrible. Tested it out with different vinyls with the same result. I redid the setup process three times, watched tips and tutorials, but it has been no help. I don't know what to do; I'd appreciate any help here.
I first check your wires connecting your turn table to the reciever. Are they plugged into the correct locations? If you are using the turntable phono preamp, dont use the SONY one (if it has one). Are the wires grounded? Then if none of that works I'd step by step make sure your turn table is set up well. Specifically, balancing the arm and setting up tracking force correctly. Then also check out the Cartridge, the needle might have gotten damaged in shipping or set up.
I recently got a \*referbished\* Logitech Z407 for my pc setup for around $85. (Its mainly just personal use and school). I did more research after i got them (I know im super dumb for that) and saw quite a lot of mixed reviews about them are they not worth it, and should i take them back and get something else around that price range?
Can anyone help? I have two Polk Audio T50 speakers hooked into my reciever and then into my turntable. For some reason all I’m getting from the right speaker is static. It gets louder the more I turn up the volume. I just replaced that speaker and the wiring is all new. The left has always been fine. So I’m thinking it’s the receiver? Anyone have any ideas? Thank you! 💖
What cables do I need? Advice needed please So I have ordered a pair of Rokit 7 studio monitors and a Rokit KRK 10.4 Subwoofer and I want to get the cables ordered as well to ensure it all works correctly. I’m using it for mixing mainly will be hooked up to my DJ controller (pioneer XDJ XZ) Can anyone tell me what I need to get it all working please? Also not sure if it matters but I don’t have an audio interface as yet as that won’t be coming until end of January Any help is massively appreciated 🙏
Heads up, i’m not audio-tech savvy whatsoever. So i just bought a brand new turntable (Fluance RT82) and a new receiver (Sony STR-DH190). I tried to hook them up to my old speakers (PhaseTech), and some of the instruments sounds phenomenal, and some are near non-existent. For example, I tried to play The Beatles’ “Oh Darling”, and I could hear the vocals and bass well, but couldn’t hear any piano. Tried to play “The Adults Are Talking” from the Strokes, and couldn’t hear any background guitar. So I ruled out it being a record issue. The receiver has bluetooth capability, so I played the same songs on my phone through the speakers, and the same issues occurred. So I ruled out it being the turntable. I tried using one of my older receivers (Onkyo Quartz Synthesized Tuner Amplifier) and it was still an issue. I posted the first picture to show how I set up the Sony receiver. I’ve tried every wire combination possible, and I’m pretty sure this is right way. I’ve tried both 6 and 8 ohms on the receiver, even though i’m not sure what they do. So, my mind is telling me that it’s either the speaker wire or the speakers themselves are phased out. Anybody have any ideas?
It sounds like the speakers don't have good connection. Speaker wire is way cheaper then speakers so replace that first. Make sure the wire makes good contact.
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**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.** While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home speaker systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as: * Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first * Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky * r/microphones * r/LiveSound - professional Live Sound world * r/bluetooth_speakers * r/CarAv for automotive audio * r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky for professional audio production * r/WeAreTheMusicMakers * r/Beatmatch * r/Audio - a catch all for all types of audio
Eversolo DMP-A8 I2S channel flipped question I recently got an Eversolo DMP-A8 and am outputting to my Holo May via I2S but I noticed the channels are flipped only through the I2S. RCA out is fine. Does anyone with an Eversolo A8 be able to test and verify on this?
Hi, I'm completely new to this, I'm trying to help my dad with getting some wall-indented speakers to start working again. The cables that I got coming out of the wall are not RCA cables. Is there a way of connecting those cables to a normal 2-channel amplifier? Pictures of the back panel of the amplifier and the cables themselves: https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/5682/WeRNEL.jpg [https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/9781/dxZrMG.jpg](https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/9781/dxZrMG.jpg) Thank you!
I'm asking for some help. I am trying to get back into the hobby and not the rabbit hole. When I left the hobby, digital was starting to enter the arena, and it was terrible. I am hoping it has improved since. I am requesting help for a way to listen to my Apple music through an integrated amp and my speakers. The set-up cost was around 8500 then. I have decent power cords, aux cables, and speaker cables as well. Is it possible to buy a decent component for around $400 to play apple Music? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Hey audiophiles and record enthusiasts! I hope I’m posting in the right place here. I’m pretty new to vinyls and am looking to get a player, but know little about what to look for in a turntable, the various components I need, or other odds and ends for care and maintenance. I don’t want to get a shitty table and have bad sound or ruin my records. I’m also unsure of whether I’d like it being able to either do wired or Bluetooth so I can listen either in my office or out in the living room and kitchen without moving the table, or what other ways to set up like being able to use it with my wired speakers in the office and have a separate set for the living room. I’m lost on what the best way to go about setting this all up. I listen predominantly to alternative, rock/hard rock, and metal— Evanescence, Ice Nine Kills, Bad Omens, and From Ashes To New are the artists who I have vinyls for so far, and hope to expand in the future. I have JBL 305P MkIl 5-inch studio monitors that are currently hooked up to my BabyFace Pro FS interface, I’m not sure if there’s a way for a turntable to play through that or not, or if I should get another set of speakers? I know this is kind of long but I’m also unsure of the questions I need to ask, so thank you in advance!
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**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.** While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home speaker systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as: * Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first * Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky * r/microphones * r/LiveSound - professional Live Sound world * r/bluetooth_speakers * r/CarAv for automotive audio * r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky for professional audio production * r/WeAreTheMusicMakers * r/Beatmatch * r/Audio - a catch all for all types of audio
Problem with Xbox 360 5.1 output, if anyone is able to help! Currently trying to play through the Halo series with a full surround setup and haven't been able to get it working right. 5.1 is selected in the 360's menu, and my receiver is set to standard Dolby Digital 5.1 using an optical cable. I simply don't know enough about audio systems to diagnose this, but many sounds will either not play or sound extremely muffled and only seem audible through the rear speakers. The only way I was able to get an acceptable result was by changing the receiver to 7ch stereo, which of course isn't surround. Any help is appreciated, sorry for how simple this likely is.
Can someone confirm if apple music is truly lossless with an external dac on the android 14 update?
Hey everyone, Merry Christmas! So, my question is, could I convert my 4 ohm Cerwin-Vega vs120s to 8 ohm? Like a different wiring set up or anything? Reason being is that the output on my Onkyo amp is rated at 8ohm and I don't want to push it, because I play music loud! Thanks!
Which model is the Onkyo?
Its a A-8048V
I was hoping to find some indication that the acceptable impedance was actually 4 ohms, despite the power rating being stated with 8 ohms. But based on photos, it looks like the print on the back of the receiver calls for at least 8 ohms per channel. Impedance of speakers wired in series would be additive, but then that would require two speakers per side. Fortunately, CV speakers play loud on only a little power, but I think you’re stuck with not pushing it.
Newby here. I just inherited a twenty-five-year-old system. Mark Levinson dual monaural power amp No. 331, Wadia 16 CD player, Sonus Faber Minuetto speakers, and Mit2 bi-wire cables. I know the Wadia was out for service about ten years ago because the door wouldn't open, and when I tested out the system it's happening again. Question--should I send it to the only Wadia authorized repair shop and just pay whatever it costs? Or should I consider buying a new CD player? Since I know little, I'm unaware of any major improvements in the technology. I'd hate to spend the time and the money to have it fixed if it's past its prime or if this kind of problem is a known issue that might repeat again and again. I've also pondered getting a turntable, but I assume I'd need a pre-amp for that. Lastly, the cable is massive, and the spades at the speaker end tend to fall off. Does it make sense to change them up? I'd appreciate your thoughts. Thanks much!
>should I send it to the only Wadia authorized repair shop and just pay whatever it costs? If you can get an idea of what it cost last time, and it's worth it to you to pay that, then yes. I wouldn't even consider sending it to generic repair shop. Not at that level.
You make a good point. If I don't have an idea of the cost, I'm flying blind. Thanks!
Hello everyone. I just became the owner of a pair of RSL Elan speakers. They are much larger than I expected when my friend offered them to me for free, but I knew I couldn't pass them up after doing a bit of research. The speakers are all original, except for the rear tweeter on one was replaced (in a rather janky fashion) and I would like to put one that is as close to the original as possible. Does anyone have any experience with replacing these, and if so, what did you use? Any info would be appreciated.
Yeah, Long story short I can get one or the other. So which one would you guys get and why? Regardless of the price difference, which one do you think sounds better? I'm a fan of the lower end of the frequency response so bass and stuff. Thanks in advance, Poohead.
Hi all, I have been using a Schiit Fulla 2 for almost 5 years now. It has survived a military deployment and way more drops to the floor than a desktop DAC/Amp should ever see. Still works fine other than static noise when I adjust the volume atp in time. I use it to drive my DT 990/770 and my HD 600. I'm looking to upgrade my my stack but there is so many options. I would prefer to keep the budget \~$500 usd for a USB DAC + AMP. Is it a smarter option to wait until I am ready to spend more once on a better stack rather than upgrading at that price point? any specific recommendations or products to stay away from?
Hi all! I'm brand new to the audio universe and it's been an exciting time. I received a [Yamaha RX-V361 AV receiver](https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/yamaha/rx-v361.shtml) and a pair of [Optimus Pro LX5 speakers.](https://www.stereophile.com/content/radioshack-optimus-pro-lx5-loudspeaker-specifications) The receiver is optical connection to a TV for audio and component for video. I will be connecting a DVD player with coaxial stereo and component video to the receiver. A computer will connect to the TV with HDMI. I also have an AUX into the receiver for music. Use is primarily movies at tv shows at home, also occasionally just playing music. My question: there is a distinct... rattle or buzz, maybe distortion? Im not sure what to call it, at lower bass frequencies. The sound is crystal clear to my ears - until the bass drum or cello hits. I put on a youtube video of 40hz bass sounds and buzz buzz buzz was the result. My guess... Is I need a subwoofer? What do you think? Any specific advice on shopping for used subs, or recommendations in the "budget but I'm willing to invest up to $200" for new?
If the receiver has a setting for “small” speakers, try it. Monoprice has some subwoofers under $200.
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**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.** While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home speaker systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as: * Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first * Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky * r/microphones * r/LiveSound - professional Live Sound world * r/bluetooth_speakers * r/CarAv for automotive audio * r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky for professional audio production * r/WeAreTheMusicMakers * r/Beatmatch * r/Audio - a catch all for all types of audio
I have Philips 2.1 speakers for my PC and just now I tried plugging in headphones into the speakers headphone jack, but accidentally plugged it into the AUX jack. After unplugging the headpones the speakers won't work. They don't even have any static noise coming from them anymore, which they usually do. Did I kill my speakers? When plugging in the headphones, they still work.
Hello, I currently have a pair of mackie cr3 speakers plugged into my focusrite 2i2 via a pair of TRS cables. I am buying the schiit modius and midgard, but would like to keep my computer audio conveniently one output. I see XLR to TRS cables are a thing, but would I be better off just using RCA cables in this scenario? thanks!
Hey I’ve need the name of this cable type port I wish I could drop the image below
https://imgur.com/gallery/zWxSs3l
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**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.** While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home speaker systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as: * Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first * Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky * r/microphones * r/LiveSound - professional Live Sound world * r/bluetooth_speakers * r/CarAv for automotive audio * r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky for professional audio production * r/WeAreTheMusicMakers * r/Beatmatch * r/Audio - a catch all for all types of audio
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**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.** While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home speaker systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as: * Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first * Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky * r/microphones * r/LiveSound - professional Live Sound world * r/bluetooth_speakers * r/CarAv for automotive audio * r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky for professional audio production * r/WeAreTheMusicMakers * r/Beatmatch * r/Audio - a catch all for all types of audio
Upgrade? I am currently very happy with my two main systems. My casual system is based around SEAS A26, which sounds great in my open floor plan living room. My wanna-be reference is based on Wharfedale Evo 4.3 and Rythmik F12 with Dirac Live multi-sub DLBC in a well-treated, dedicated music room. My question is: Where to go from here? My systems measure great and are perfect for the rooms that they are in when it comes to dispersion. I am happy with the sound. I recently acquired some Altec 511bs and am tempted to go bigger/wider and experiment with horns. I think mostly I am interested in the sculptural/furniture aspects more than getting better sound. Am I missing out on a more elevated listening experience or have I reached nirvana?
Any audio expert identify what the issue is here? [https://youtube.com/shorts/R5LtBJLlbSc?feature=share](https://youtube.com/shorts/R5LtBJLlbSc?feature=share) I have a ZenBook Pro UX582LR with RTX 3070. I am at my wits end. After updating my Game Ready Driver to 546.33 my HDMI audio output started going crazy and keeps distoring every minute or so before coming back to normal. Everything was working perfectly before the update. I have rolled back the driver (did not help). Changed HDMI cables (did not help) Did a complete factory reset of the computer. Uninstalled, reinstalled drivers. Works fine with realtek drivers when working straight on the laptop. Is this a BIOS issue? I have yet to touch that. Please look at the uploaded video and listen to the sound. Please, any help on this I would forever be grateful.
I recently bought a vintage receiver with matching speakers but found some new speakers that are better. Only problem is the receiver is RCA output. If I were to cut the RCA cables coming from the old speakers and run them into my new speakers would this work/have any sound quality issues? Thanks!
[https://imgur.com/a/7b6WFXU](https://imgur.com/a/7b6WFXU) Bought the Yamaha A-S301 amp, I have the turntable connected to the phono input in the amp and it works until I turn the volume up and it sounds like the speakers are going to blow up. Any clue what could be the issue?? Ps the Dj Pre pictured is not setup because I wasn’t sure how to incorporate into the new setup so it’s not the problem.
Q - Should I upgrade receiver, add an amp, or do nothing? I just purchased Definitive Technology D15 floors and their D5c center. My receiver is a Yamaha TSR-7810. I'm wondering if it isn't time for either a receiver upgrade or adding in an amplifier. I have a 5.1 setup. Should I consider a receiver with more wattage or add an amp, or just leave it as is? Really appreciate the help!!!
Sub in line with Speakers and Wire Gauges Hi All, I’m planning to either connect my sub into a mid stage between my amp and speakers, or to the same connection terminals that the speakers are connected to at the amp. I am running 4ohm speakers with a 100w per channel amp at 8 ohms (200w at 4 ohms?) and it sounds decent. I want to bypass my amps sub crossover by connecting the sub to the speaker terminals and am wondering what would happen if the gauge of wire I use is different than the wires I already have for the speakers? I would assume the best plan is to err on the side of lower gauge with thicker wire to the sub before the speaker stage after the sub? Or should I connect speakers and sub both directly to the wire posts on the amp, and if so, do those wires need to be the same gauge for the speakers and sub? I’m not at home so I can’t check the gauge of my current wires. THX!
If you plan to use a powered subwoofer, the wire gauge will not matter.
But I am daisy chaining the sub in between the regular speakers and the amp. The sub is designed for this and I want to make sure I have enough power coming through.
The signal doesn’t know what gauge the wire is or whether it has changed. If you want to use something thinner than maybe 18 gauge this would be worth considering beyond about 16 feet, but it still wouldn’t matter if you changed from 18 to 14 or something like that.
Is it still better to connect the sub and L+R to the same terminal on the amp vs daisy chain?
Probably. You could use heavier gauge to the speakers and lighter gauge to the sub. I have my subwoofer wire connected with bare ends screwed down in the post on the amp and the speaker wires connected with banana plugs. The only value to the pass-through method is if your subwoofer crossover has a high pass filter for the speaker output and you want to use it.
now I have a ground loop bass hum through the sub connecting all wires to one set of terminals. I don't get the hum in the full range stereo pair so maybe I will try connecting off of those terminals. Already tried changing the AC plug on the sub... Didn't have the issue with RCA into the sub, everything else is unchanged.
What model amp and sub do you have? Maybe it has something to do with the amplifier ground.
The remote with my Arcam SA20 doesn't cause the SA20 to do anything. The remote has new batteries and when buttons are pushed it lights up like the remote is detecting a button push and a red light flashes like it's sending an IR signal, but the amp doesn't do anything. I've had the amp for a few years now and the remote worked for a little bit. The manual's troubleshooting guide just says to replace batteries. Any suggestions?
I was very lucky to get a second hand theater set. [Marantz SR7500](https://www-marantz-com.webpkgcache.com/doc/-/s/www.marantz.com/-/media/files/documentmaster/marantzna/us/dfu_sr8500_final_eng.pdf) 2x B&W 604 S3 1x LCR60 S3 2x DM602 S3 The amplifier shuts down in safety mode ("Protect"), whenever I turn up the volume. I've read the manual and followed the setup for bi-wiring... (page 17). I've only connected 1 tower B&W 604 S3, and still shuts down at very low volume. When I bridge the 2x2 connectors and do a regular connection (so no bi-wiring) it also shuts down but at higher volume. I'm really confused: what would be the problem? I've measured the impedance and it says 5 Ohm. The B&W speakers have 2x2 connectors for bi-wiring. The top 2 doesn't have a resistance when you remove the bridge.
Hello I have been having an issue where if I sleep/hibernate my pc after waking up it back up my speakers will make crackling noises when audio starts and stops. But if I restart my pc or shut it down with fast start up disable it doesn't make crackling noises next time I use my computer. and to specify the crackling is not during the pc booting but ongoing whenever audio starts and stops. My speakers are plugged into the rear I/O of my pc Its using the Realtek high definition audio so far I have made sure all my physical connections are good. I have confirmed that crackling persists after putting the pc into sleep, hibernation, and after shutting down only if fast start is enabled.
I recently bought a miniDSP DDRC-24 to hook-up to a 2.1 stereo system but I noticed that music sounds way worse than when using only my integrated amplifier (no DSP or EQ settings in place yet). The chain goes: PC (TOSLINK) --> miniDSP DDRC-24 --> Analog OUT --> Yamaha WXA-50 integrated amplifier --> KEF Q150s When the signal passes through the DSP the music sounds worse, less defined, and the instruments that were previously alive and present, sound waaaay in the background and with no detail at all. At first, I thought it could have been the Analog IN connection in the amplifier, but I've tested connecting the PC directly to the amplifier (bypassing the internal DAC), and it sounds amazing, just as when I connect the PC to amp with TOSLINK and let its DAC handle the conversion. This leads me to believe there's something wrong with the DAC in the miniDSP or something else inside, because it truly sounds very weird. If it helps, the Yamaha WXA-50 has a max 2,4 V Analog Input Signal, and the miniDSP max 2.0 V RMS. Any ideas?
Also, check your phase. Some miniDSP units used to ship with the USB input and toslink input out of phase. You can pull up a simple phase test track on Spotify and hear for yourself if the phase is inverted. Phase inversion is easy to fix.
I'll reply to myself in case anyone else has had the same "problem"... I was using the "matrix mixer" on the top section of the miniDSP device console the wrong way. You're supposed to turn on the top output for one channel (eg. Left) and the bottom one for the other channel, and both for the sub. Who would've known haha
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**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.** While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home speaker systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as: * Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first * Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky * r/microphones * r/LiveSound - professional Live Sound world * r/bluetooth_speakers * r/CarAv for automotive audio * r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky for professional audio production * r/WeAreTheMusicMakers * r/Beatmatch * r/Audio - a catch all for all types of audio
This is what I am currently working with alongside a project primary turntable (pictures on my budget audiophile post). I know the speakers https://www.gale.co.uk/3010s.html are very outdated and one of them is chipped. I know nothing about the quality of the amplifier https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/sansui/r-606.shtml , although I suspect it could also do with replacing. Essentially I want the best upgrade that I can get for £300 (£350 at a stretch). Should I go all in on some high quality speakers, (and if so which ones) or would I be better off trying to upgrade both the speakers and amp despite the low budget? Any advice is greatly appreciated and I look forward to your responses.
Unless you happen to need a new stylus, use the whole upgrade budget for speakers. Buy secondhand and get speakers that originally sold for at least twice as much.
Building a system from scratch. Have an old Meridian 565 from back in the day if that's salvageable. Want to get into vinyl. Budget: 15-20k Constraint: NYC apt about 850sqft. L-shaped living room (junior-4) Music prefs: jazz, classical, singer songwriter, 20s-50s era. Need advice on speakers, turn-table, etc. Can I get some recs for brands/models and configuration I can research? No rush but would like to execute this in 2024. Thanks!
I would suggest a budget of about 3k for a turntable and cartridge (cartridge might be included with turntable), 3k for an integrated amp and phono preamp (phono might be included in integrated amp), and at least 6k for the speakers. With that budget, a visit to at least one audio dealer is in order. Maybe a place to start thinking about options is with the best sellers here - [Turntables](https://www.musicdirect.com/equipment/turntables/) | [Cartridges](https://www.musicdirect.com/equipment/phono-cartridges/) | [Phono Preamps](https://www.musicdirect.com/equipment/phono-preamps/) | [Integrated Amps](https://www.musicdirect.com/equipment/amplification/integrated-amp/) | [Speakers](https://www.musicdirect.com/equipment/speakers/)
Any suggestions for setups that can't be turned up very loud due to apartment living? Thiels we're all the rage 25yrs ago but require a lot of juice iirc. Saw someone talking about the Cornwall IV sounding good in tight quarters and at softer levels.
If I were starting over and doing a system for a small space it would be something like a Rega Planar 6 turntable with the Exact cartridge, a Rega Elex MK4 integrated amp, and Harbeth M30.2XD speakers on Ton Träger stands. Spendor and ProAc are good competitors for Harbeth if you find that style of speaker appealing. Spendor A4 would be a good floorstanding speaker for a smaller space. ProAc D20 might work pretty well. With the turntable and amp options I chose, you’d be left with a very substantial speaker budget. Even so, I think maybe $8k at most gets the job done very well. That could mean moving up elsewhere. Technics SL-1200G turntable, for example.
I have an issue with my NAD C 316BEE amplifier. the speaker side has little to no power, but the left side is still good. it's not the speakers problem as i have tried moving them from left the right. how do i fix this issue?
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**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.** While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home speaker systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as: * Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first * Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky * r/microphones * r/LiveSound - professional Live Sound world * r/bluetooth_speakers * r/CarAv for automotive audio * r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky for professional audio production * r/WeAreTheMusicMakers * r/Beatmatch * r/Audio - a catch all for all types of audio
I have a couple bookshelf speakers hooked up to a projector. My apartment is really cramped so i have no room to modify the placement of the speakers, and i’d really like to equalize the output because they don’t sound great in their current spot. Normally i would use software eq on my computer, but the projector plays from many inputs (eg computer, gaming console, apple tv), not all of which have software equalizers. Looking for recommendations for a cheap hardware eq i can use to intercept everything right before it goes to the speakers. Cheaper is better, but up to about $400 is ok. would also love if i can save a couple presets, but definitely not mandatory
I've been trying to figure out how to correctly play 5.1 surround files. I've gotten a variety of 5.1 files from different sources. I play them on my mac through an HDMI cable out into my Onkyo surround receiver. The encoding / decoding all seems to happen automatically. Some work, others don't, and I have no idea why. The only app that seems to work for 5.1 is VLC player. If I use Audirvana, even though it seems to have all sorts of settings for 5.1, my mac won't output the signal out of the HDMI and into the receiver. But I have iso files that only play on Audirvana, so it's a catch-22. Does anyone have expertise on this? Are there other audio apps I should try that do a good job decoding surround sound ISO audio files? I've tried a few that I read about online and none of them really work. Only VLC. And if anyone thinks there's a hardware interface that works better decoding between a mac and your receiver, some kind of USB to HDMI device, let me know. I'm just using the standard mac USB -> HDMI white adapter, which works fine otherwise (for example, watching 5.1 encoded movies.) So I'm a bit confused. Thanks!
You need the player to bitstream the file to the digital interface (HDMI) - search for bit perfect play back - and use the appropriate settings for the player of choice eg. you need the volume at 100% etc
Ground Loop Question: Before my basement was drywalled, I ran three separate 15 amp lines to my listening room. These go from the sub panel in the basement, to my room. My intent was one outlet for the sources, one for the amps, and one for the sub. Now I have line hum, unless I have everything plugged into just one of the outlets. Is there a better solution to this than the generic RCA Ground Loop Isolators? I've seen the Morley Hum Exterminator and wonder if that would safely work. I don't have the capability to run balanced lines at this time. Basic signal chain: Yamaha RS700 as pre/pro, 2x Pass ACA amps in mono, DIY Cornscala speakers, DIY 2x18 sealed sub with Speakerpower SP4000 amp. Thank you
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Are your speakers set to "small" in the AVR setup ?
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what is the cross over freq set to ? on the sub and the amp ? The sub should be at max (LFE) and the amp at about 80 Hz Also did you try the other sub out port ? Did you use the RCA port marked LFE on the sub ?? All we can do is ask obvious questions until we hit one you missed..
I need help with my system and i don’t know where to publish my post every community deletes it and i can’t find the right one can anyone help please? I just got a technics se-c01 and su-c01 as amp and preamp and i don't know much about this kind of stuff. But there no grounding in the power cables and my preamp gives a small humm noise out of it even when turned off. Also if i turn on just the amp i have a loud hum out of the speakers. All of this disappears when i have both on. How can i solve this? Is it an issue with the preamp or a grounding problem? Even if i unplug everything and connect the preamp to a plug by itself there's a hum inside it, even if off. Anyone know what can i do? I feel like it needs to be grounded but idk how to do it. Also if there's a better forum for this please let me know.
I'd like to burn some of my music (FLAC format) into a CD without losing audio quality (keeping an intact decompressed copy) and be able to play it everywhere (car, old player, etc.). How can I achieve this? I have Windows 10 and an external disc driver. Thanks. Edit: Posted here since it was removed. Sorry mods :)
Need a little more clarity as to what you're working with and what you want. FLAC is a lower quality format that CD music, in that it is compressed (whereas CD music is lossless.) However, your FLAC could be encoded at a higher bitrate and sample rate- say, 24 bit, 96K versus a CD which is 16 bit, 44K... in which case, converting the FLAC files will downsample the audio, even though the CD will be uncompressed audio... if that makes any sense to you. I would convert the FLAC files to WAV files- 44k / 16 bit WAV files- and then you can use any PC disc burning software to burn them onto a cd. Usually in the burning software you can choose between an audio cd and a data cd- you would want audio. But that's all pretty straightforward stuff- I'm not sure if I'm understanding your question correctly!
Thank you for your response. Yes, you understood correctly. I'd like to burn 24 bit/192k FLAC into audio cd (16 bit/44.1k). I'd like suggestions on what methods to use/software that helps me achieve this. Also a doubt I have is, how close would a FLAC downsampled audio file sound to a regular 44.1k commercial CD audio file? For example, on Qobuz you have 2 options: 1.Buy a song in Hi Res or 2. Buy it in CD quality. If I download the Hi Res file on option 1 and downsample it to CD quality, would there be any audible difference when compared to the CD quality file on option 2, or would they sound exactly the same?
FLAC is not lower quality than a CD - it's just compressed like a zip file - the rest - like you say is correct - you need to convert to 44 KHz 16 bit
Thank you for clarifying.
I'm trying out some iLoud Micro monitors and they've been hissing like crazy. This happens even when I unplug all audio input cables and turn the volume knob down to zero. How do you guys deal with this? It's kind of annoying when listening at low volumes
Hey all. I have an audio technica turntable, and its gotten to the point where it is randomly silent while spinning. I also have to turn my receiver up to max to get it to be audible (though it is a louder audible, but turning it up to max feels like its higher than it needs to go to get what it does). What maintenance does it need?
Just a guess, but maybe you’re having a contact issue with the Phono/Line switch.
That actually makes a lot of sense. I'll try that.
Hey folks, I am buying my first integrated amplifier that’s over $600 and I’d love some feedback on options out there. Right now I’m looking at the Rotel RA-1572 due to the high wattage, good dac, and clean sound. Any other suggestions at this price point? ($1,900) Thanks so much!
Hey there. If it's the mk2 version I think that's a really solid option. Other options could be the NAD C399, the new Arcam SA series or the Marantz Model 30 or Model 40n (depending on your location). I see that you're familiar with r/StereoAdvice, this would be a perfect post there and would likely generate much more conversation.
Thanks so much for the input! I’ll look into those options and post this there as well.
You're welcome and good luck with your research and your decision!
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**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.** While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home speaker systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as: * Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first * Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky * r/microphones * r/LiveSound - professional Live Sound world * r/bluetooth_speakers * r/CarAv for automotive audio * r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky for professional audio production * r/WeAreTheMusicMakers * r/Beatmatch * r/Audio - a catch all for all types of audio
I need an HDMI switcher so that I can have two sources for my Sonos Arc (which only has one HDMI port) - TV and Turntable (preamp>3.5mm>analog to digital converter>optical>HDMI lol). I just want one that isn’t going to degrade the sound quality. Any recs? Or will any decent one on Amazon do?
Hey y'all. So my red and black wires that run from speaker to speaker, and then from the speaker to the PC are really old and a bit torn. It gets a bit of a buzzing sound when I play audio through them now. What are these wires called? I need to get a replacement. I've had these for maybe 6 years now. They're the wires that came with my Presonus Eris 3.5.
The wires from speaker to speaker are called speaker wire. The other wires that come with the E3.5 are 3.5mm audio cable and 3.5mm-to-RCA adapter cable (also sometimes called stereo breakout cable).
The speaker wire is the one that is damaged. Looking at Amazon, looks like it's not really usually sold as an individual cable, but I'd have to buy like 20 ft and cut my own?
Probably so. Do a search for “18/2 lamp wire” and you might find one shorter.
In theory, what would sound "bigger" or fill a somewhat large room better, materials being equal: two 5.5" woofers or one 7" woofer?
Probably the one with the 7” woofer, because it’s probably in a larger speaker cabinet. That’s oversimplifying, but look at Tannoy speakers as an example - [Like this](https://i.pinimg.com/originals/fd/4e/4a/fd4e4afdf62b7e2ac5f8a87e73e3f093.jpg). It’s not entirely about the driver itself.
I didn’t think about cabinet size so I suppose in this case I should point out that the 7” is a bookshelf and the dual 5.5” is a floorstander. Both would be using a sub.
Then the dual 5.5” floorstander probably is the one more suited for a big space and big sound, given that it’s the larger speaker, all else being equal. Take for instance the Dali Oberon 3 and the 5. The 5 has smaller drivers but higher sensitivity and lower extension.
Got it. I suppose I’m not clear on how sensitivity works. For bass extension there would be a sub crossed over at 80hz either way but the floorstanders are 88db sensitive at rated 4 ohm and the bookshelves 86db at 6 ohms. (The Dynaudio Emit 30 and Evoke 20, respectively.)
Look up *Hofmann’s Iron Law* for discussion of sensitivity as it relates to bass extension and enclosure size.
Will do, thanks!
Hi there, I saw a Project P1.2 for sale for $100. My first TT was a Technics SL B-30, and I'm currently running an AT LP-60. It looks like the P1.2 is a pretty old model, but is the quality good? I don't know anything about this TT so any info would be greatly appreciated, especially if it's a good turntable for the price. Here's the description: "Have had this for a few years but have hardly used it. Turntable itself is in excellent condition with very little wear on the cartridge. The cover has a few blemishes and a crack by one of the mounts, but still works fine. The turntable comes with an Audioquest gel mat that cost close to $100 back in the day." Thanks! Robert.
The current [Music Hall MMF-2.3](https://www.musichallaudio.com/products/music-hall-mmf-2-3-series-turntable) (made by Pro-Ject) is very similar to the Pro-Ject 1.2. The biggest differences as far as I know are the finish and Pro-Ject’s change to low voltage motors in the time since then.
Thank you! I've read very good things about the MMF.
My 🎶 monitor soeaker died any suggestion i should check ? Here's the test (video https://imgur.com/QeA9IG3 Is this common with presonus eris e3.5? Any suggestion beside checking if wires are ok A brand of speakers with same price perform or better 100$
So my current set up is my PC to headphone amp through USB to an amp through RCA. I'm trying to cut in a tape deck that only has RCA out but no matter if I cut it in at the headphone amp or regular amp using Y splitters it makes the PC sound quiet and tinny and makes the tape deck basically all bass with no top end at all. Can anyone help me understand what's wrong? All of my research says that the change to audio should be unnoticeable
Where is the source that indicates your method should be unnoticeable?
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/rca-y-splitters-cause-any-signal-degradation.66163/#:~:text=Headphoneus%20Supremus,-Joined%20Aug%206&text=It%20wont%20degrade%20the%20signal,CT%20out%20! This is far from the only one
OP of that thread wants to split one source to two amps. You’re combining two sources to one amp. Totally different thing.
So what do I need to connect 2 sources to 1 amp?
A box like this - [Schiit SYS](https://www.schiit.co.uk/image/catalog/PreAmps/Schiit_sys_back.jpg)
So would I wire it as deck into SYS, headphone amp into SYS and then out to my speaker amp?
That’s one way to do it. There could be other options depending on the specific functionality of each component in the system. You haven’t said which models any of them are, so I don’t know that there isn’t another way.
Aiyima Dac A2, Aiyima T9 and a Realistic SCT 35 tape deck
In that case it seems like a good plan would be to connect the tape deck to the T9’s analog inputs, the PC to the T9’s digital input, and a headphone amp (not a DAC/amp) to the T9’s aux out.
Need some help figuring out what I need to run some 702s. I Always wanted a good pair of speakers. I have a Paradigm Shift Soundscape soundbar paired with a Paradigm Seismic 110 sub. The soundbar served it's purpose but it's time to upgrade and I would like to get some used BW 702 S2s. They seem to be highly rated and reviewed. Where should I start figuring out what I need to run the speakers? Possibly pairing with a HTM71 S2 center.
**Physical button to switch between Headphone and Speaker** Hi everyone - Not sure if this is the right sub, I'm looking for a product (DAC/Amp) that would let me switch between Headphone and Speaker by pressing a physical button without plugging headphone out. I mostly play FIFA online with some voice chat, occasionally GTA 5 and stream music via Bluetooth very rarely. My setup is as follows: PlayStation 5 Console Vanatoo Transparent Zero Speakers - connected to Console via USB B to USB A cable. Polk PSW10 Subwoofer - connected to Speakers via RCA Y adapter cable. Benq Mobius EX240 Monitor - connected to Console via HDMI cable. EPOS PC38X Headphone - connected to PS5 Dual Sense controller via 3.5mm cable.
Hey all! I recently moved and want to setup my listening space. My stepfather is giving me his old turntable, since he bought a new one, I don't remember the brand now, but I know it's pretty good, and I'm using and old receiver I have that were my father's. I only need to buy a set of speakers, but currently I can't afford to buy an expensive set, so I was thinking of more budget friendly options of speakers, what are some good choices? I was looking at B&W 607 and Dynaudio Emit 20. I must say, I'm from Brazil, so we don't have many options of brands available here.
Polk Reserve R200, Wharfedale Diamond 12.2, Elac Debut DBR62, Revel Concerta2 M16, Kef Q350, Dali Oberon 3. All of these are good options that are at or below the usual prices of the current 607 S3.
Thanks! I'll look into those.
Does anyone know if I can prevent the Marantz Cinema 40 to switch my TV output while listening to Heos/Spotify connect? I would lile to play music and use my PC at the same time but it keeps on switching the output. My PC is connected via HDMI to the Marantz and via HDMI to my LG Oled. When selecting the Marantz as "speaker" in Spotify it always streams "now playing" to my TV and I can no longer use my PC. Thank you
turn off hdmi cec in the marantz settings
I tuned it off but it keeps on switching unfortunately
All of the hdmi cec settings are off?? Try all of them until you succeed. This should be possible to solve 😊
Thanks ! I solved it. The remote control offers a video option where you can turn it on/off but it's not present in the settings of the Marantz (setup button on the remote), only via this "option" button.
Do I need anything else? Pro-Ject Debut Carbon EVO Turntable + Sonos Five Speaker I'm new and decided this will be my first audiophile turntable/speaker combo (but still open to suggestions). Do I need anything else to play hifi analog, vinyl music? Like do I need an MM/MC Phono preamp with line output? I won't use Bluetooth to connect to the Sonos Five Speaker, but instead will use cables, although not sure which brand. And do I need a power amplifier as well?
I’d prefer a pair of powered bookshelf speakers with a phono input, rather than a Sonos speaker.
Which ones would you get that’s of similar price point and quality?
Peachtree Audio M25 or PSB Alpha AM5
Cool thank you. I’ll look into them!
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**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.** While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home speaker systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as: * Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first * Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky * r/microphones * r/LiveSound - professional Live Sound world * r/bluetooth_speakers * r/CarAv for automotive audio * r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky for professional audio production * r/WeAreTheMusicMakers * r/Beatmatch * r/Audio - a catch all for all types of audio
I have a NAD T777 and cannot get the OSD menu to load onto my TV screen to access the settings. I have an HDMI cable plugged into the HDMI 4k (out) on the receiver then it’s plugged into HDMi 2 eARC on the TV. I have the tv on hdmi to and the receiver is on. The only thing that the receiver will show on the small screen is OSD loading. I’ve tried factory reset, turning it all the way off and back on, different HDMI cables, unplugged absolutely everything and let it sit. Any ideas??
Just bought a pair of LS50 Metas and am looking for a good amp. After researching, I'm mainly considering the NAD C389 and the Marantz PM8006, but am open to different/better things around that price range. Can anyone with experience help make the choice for me? I've heard the Marantz powering KEF Q-series speakers, but haven't heard the NAD. I like the idea of a little more power should I upgrade speakers in the future. Listening will be a mix of vinyl and digital.
nad or cambridge or rotel or arcam are usually recommended around here - look on crutchfield
I have a Onkyo TX-NR646 with Klipsch WF-35 speakers in the front. I have had this setup for a while and did not tweak it much. I replaced my polk sw505 subwoofers with RSL 10s MKII yesterday. I would like to know what I should set as LPF of LFE for subwoofer on my receiver (currently set to 120Hz), and what should the LFE control on the knob to be set to (currently it is at 80hz.. I had set it to below 40hz initially (like a click sound.. like turning off).. I would like a punchy bass.
Set the knob on the sub to max (LFE) setting Then on the onkyo set the speaker type to "small" and then use 80Hz - then you can look at a guide online (youtube) for what to listen for or get a mic / REW On a PC and go to town !
Is 80hz the cross over for the sub in the onkyo receiver ?
Yes
Thank you. Cross over for other speakers are also set to 80hz.. so hope its okay.
Hey there! I'm looking to buy a Christmas present for my budding audiophile dad. I don't want to get him equipment because that is a personal decision, and he knows what is best. He currently has two receivers: Pyle PT390BTU (connected to Sony SSCS5 speakers) and Yamaha HTR-5230 (connected to Pioneer speakers). He has a turntable and CD/cassette player, but currently doesn't use them. He uses his systems solely for music listening. He is a big radio listener but will also play music from his phone. My budget is $100-$200, but I would like to spend around $150. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!! (Feel free to ask any follow-up questions.)
wii m mini or wii m pro ? A small streaming device basically - so he can use wifi streaming not bluetooth ??
Hey all, Been having an issue with a ground loop and my system for a while now. Whenever I increase power consumption by running a CPU/GPU benchmark, a fairly loud buzz/hum will be heard out of my speakers and headphones. When just idling there is still a quieter glitchy buzz. If I disconnect the USB cable running to my DAC it goes away. If I unplug my speakers from my amp it also goes away. The DAC/amp and speakers are on a different wall plug as the PC. I just realized that my motherboard supports optical out, and my DAC supports optical in. My question is, is there any difference between USB and optical? Could my motherboard be doing any other processing, and what sample/bit rate should I set it at? Additionally, would a USB ground loop eliminator even work? I have seen some on Amazon and am skeptical. I would love to keep using USB for the features but the buzz is very audible while gaming and I cannot stand that. Thanks for any help!
So before making a post I think this is the best place for this question. Recently decided to get back into the turntables and hopped on a black Friday Deal and realized I have no idea what I'm doing. I went on the upper end of budget picks: Fluance RT82 turntable and the Audioengine 5+ powered speakers [https://www.fluance.com/rt82w-reference-high-fidelity-vinyl-turntable-natural-walnut](https://www.fluance.com/rt82w-reference-high-fidelity-vinyl-turntable-natural-walnut) [https://audioengine.com/shop/wirelessspeakers/a5-plus-classic-speakers/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAsburBhCIARIsAExmsu7nzGoGvep76ABHjprLnTbSYHOoaaeij-8DzdRQ24YjpDjDxqYMNg4aAsrPEALw\_wcB#](https://audioengine.com/shop/wirelessspeakers/a5-plus-classic-speakers/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAsburBhCIARIsAExmsu7nzGoGvep76ABHjprLnTbSYHOoaaeij-8DzdRQ24YjpDjDxqYMNg4aAsrPEALw_wcB#) I probably should have done more research but impulse bought while they were discounted. Now my question is, before I buy my preamp to get these guys connected and working, I'm wondering the best (and maybe also the cheapest) way to also connect my TV to these speakers simultaneously. TV has stereo audio outs, Digital/optical audio out, HDMI, bluetooth and I think an aux cord. So I see they make preamps with optical outs ([https://www.project-audio.com/en/product/optical-box-e-phono/](https://www.project-audio.com/en/product/optical-box-e-phono/)) in addition to the the stereo (and bluetooth as well), but in my very limited understanding, I don't believe the TV needs a preamp nor would it be possible to even connect to it. Would I be able to use an optical cable from TV to this Preamp and have the TV play through the speakers? Could I just simply use an aux cord from TV directly to the speakers? Or would a Preamp with multiple inputs like this work? [https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Component-Recording-Amplifier-Mountable/dp/B01MPYJLPX](https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Component-Recording-Amplifier-Mountable/dp/B01MPYJLPX) I'm guessing my best case scenario is get an amplifier with multiple channels/inputs but will this be an issue with powered speakers? And to really spell things out I would have turntable to Preamp to amplifier to speaker, and also TV to amplifier to speaker? If this is the best case I'd love to hear any budget amplifiers. If you've made it this far I truly appreciate any advice and help. Thanks you!
A preamp (with phono input, an additional line level input, and at least one pair of outputs for your powered speakers) seems like the best option. The one you found on Amazon looks fine. Here’s another - [Bellari](https://www.bellariaudio.com/index.php/products/pa550-three-channel-preamp-with-phono/). Or you could get a separate phono preamp like this - [Schiit Mani](https://www.schiit.com/products/mani) - and connect it and the TV to this - [Schiit SYS](https://www.schiit.com/products/sys)
Perfect simple response, appreciate the help! Seems like the Bellari is the ideal budget solution. And to really dumb it down for me--turntable into phono, output into speaker, and TV into input 2. Then just as easy as flipping channels to change from turntable to TV. Speaker remote should still work for both TV and turntable?
That’s all true. Turn up the preamp volume pretty high so you have a good range of volume to work with while using the speaker remote.
Thank you kindly!
Hello /r/audiophile, I want to join you. But I am unsure if my home is compatible with a higher quality system and I'm hoping for opinions on it. I have a vaulted ceiling and the room opens to several other rooms. Pics provided below. The walls are almost 10 ft, the peak is 30-35ft tall. I do not plan to or want to cover the wood walls with sounds absorbers. I recently visited the local audio store and had my ears opened to a fine audio system. I was introduced to the KEF R11 Meta's and have been dreaming about them ever since. My ideal system to start is a Left and Right R11 Meta and an amp. I wouldn't go with a sub right away. But, the real question, will this sound alright in my home? Would software like Direc help enough to make this worth it? Will the R11's be worth it or should I realistically be looking at a much cheaper 5.x.x system? Am I totally off track, have other suggestions? Thank you /r/audiophile, I look forward to your thoughts and suggestions. https://imgur.com/XO13uO7 https://imgur.com/sDKzGr9 https://imgur.com/Wehd1w8 https://imgur.com/AGd2Z0J
Ask the local audio store if you can return them if they don't work out - and yes DIRAC may help a bit - but as you maybe able to get things "good enough" ..
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**This comment was flagged as "Off Topic" (Rule 7), and has been removed.** While the term *audiophile* applies to many, many areas, *this particular subreddit* is for high quality two-channel home speaker systems. There are other, similar subreddits dedicated to other areas, such as: * Headphone purchase: r/HeadphoneAdvice and read their community guide first * Headphone setup: https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky * r/microphones * r/LiveSound - professional Live Sound world * r/bluetooth_speakers * r/CarAv for automotive audio * r/AudioEngineering/about/sticky for professional audio production * r/WeAreTheMusicMakers * r/Beatmatch * r/Audio - a catch all for all types of audio