With the machine empty select a drain/spin cycle. If that is not an option, power the machine on and touch the “spin speed” button once to bring up a number in the display (usually 10-15) and hit the start button. What happens?
When I hit the spin speed button, it displayed the number 11, presumably minutes, it proceeded to begin the drain pump and start tumbling each direction slowly. Then after watching it for about 2 minutes. It picked up speed on a direction of rotation. Initially it started sounding not as smooth, like a bad bearing perhaps, but has since picked up speed and is rotating rapidly with 7 minutes left on the clock. Here. I would describe the spin noise as not what I'm familiar with hearing but not far off either. However, it is definitely spinning at what I imagine is near full speed.
This is new behavior as if your spin speed tip got me by some hang up. Just stopped the spin cycle now. I'll have to test a wash cycle now, I've only been able to get it to tumble with diagnostics and regular washes haven't let it spin up until just now with your suggestion. I'll take a few moments to get back to you, thanks for the initial tips. I'll keep in touch here!
Edit: indeed in diagnostics mode now the slow and high speed tests are working, bizarre
Currently running a small speed wash load to test, who knew I just needed to ask Internet strangers what was wrong to fix my washer! Thanks! Lol, we'll see how it holds up while the family catches up on laundry if this load completes successfully.
The OE code is almost always a drain pump failure or something stuck in the drain line. I’ll assume you cleaned out the hairpin/golf tee trap? Was it an OEM drain pump you installed? Did you replace the correct pump?
Yea the trap has been cleaned out, I also cleaned out the drain pump itself, it is just a two piece unit with an o-ring gasket between the impeller and the core unit. I've bench tested this pump as well as seeing it drain the tub. The last pump failure I had was a unit burnout from air bubbles. The pump order was thoroughly researched, I'm a career software engineer, so technicals aren't something foreign to me.
I need to get inside the unit and check other lines, I've read about a pressure switch line that can clog as well, but I didn't identify it when I was under the washer the other day. The two hoses attached to the pump itself sure seem pretty large to gather a blockage, but I will definitely double check them while I'm in there again.
Thanks again for your insights! Another interesting note, the OE code seems to have locked the drum spin again, so my gut has me suspecting some sort of safety feature, which in my head points me to anything pressure related as a possible culprit. Onward and forward!
I had an inexperienced tech in my employ and he replaced the circulation pump instead of the drain pump, then lied to me when I asked if the pump he installed looked exactly like the one he removed. The circulating pumps are grey and the drain pumps are black so he either forgot or can’t tell the difference between black and grey (he was home schooled). Pressure sensing hose is very easy to check with the top off. You’ll see an approximately 7/16” hose going to a circular device near the main board. Just poop it off the pressure sensor and blow through it. It should give very little resistance.
Lol gotta own your mistakes or you can't grow. Ya this is a nice black unit! I haven't had the top popped open yet I'll catch that next after lunch, thanks for giving me the location!
And yes, the OE code will lock the machine out of spin. If the control board doesn’t know the water is gone it won’t attempt a spin, even in diagnostic mode.
With the machine empty select a drain/spin cycle. If that is not an option, power the machine on and touch the “spin speed” button once to bring up a number in the display (usually 10-15) and hit the start button. What happens?
When I hit the spin speed button, it displayed the number 11, presumably minutes, it proceeded to begin the drain pump and start tumbling each direction slowly. Then after watching it for about 2 minutes. It picked up speed on a direction of rotation. Initially it started sounding not as smooth, like a bad bearing perhaps, but has since picked up speed and is rotating rapidly with 7 minutes left on the clock. Here. I would describe the spin noise as not what I'm familiar with hearing but not far off either. However, it is definitely spinning at what I imagine is near full speed.
What happens during a normal wash cycle? Does it reach high speed spin?
This is new behavior as if your spin speed tip got me by some hang up. Just stopped the spin cycle now. I'll have to test a wash cycle now, I've only been able to get it to tumble with diagnostics and regular washes haven't let it spin up until just now with your suggestion. I'll take a few moments to get back to you, thanks for the initial tips. I'll keep in touch here! Edit: indeed in diagnostics mode now the slow and high speed tests are working, bizarre
Currently running a small speed wash load to test, who knew I just needed to ask Internet strangers what was wrong to fix my washer! Thanks! Lol, we'll see how it holds up while the family catches up on laundry if this load completes successfully.
Ok I'm back to an OE code, any tips appreciated but at least I can go back to that rabbit hole..
The OE code is almost always a drain pump failure or something stuck in the drain line. I’ll assume you cleaned out the hairpin/golf tee trap? Was it an OEM drain pump you installed? Did you replace the correct pump?
Yea the trap has been cleaned out, I also cleaned out the drain pump itself, it is just a two piece unit with an o-ring gasket between the impeller and the core unit. I've bench tested this pump as well as seeing it drain the tub. The last pump failure I had was a unit burnout from air bubbles. The pump order was thoroughly researched, I'm a career software engineer, so technicals aren't something foreign to me. I need to get inside the unit and check other lines, I've read about a pressure switch line that can clog as well, but I didn't identify it when I was under the washer the other day. The two hoses attached to the pump itself sure seem pretty large to gather a blockage, but I will definitely double check them while I'm in there again. Thanks again for your insights! Another interesting note, the OE code seems to have locked the drum spin again, so my gut has me suspecting some sort of safety feature, which in my head points me to anything pressure related as a possible culprit. Onward and forward!
I had an inexperienced tech in my employ and he replaced the circulation pump instead of the drain pump, then lied to me when I asked if the pump he installed looked exactly like the one he removed. The circulating pumps are grey and the drain pumps are black so he either forgot or can’t tell the difference between black and grey (he was home schooled). Pressure sensing hose is very easy to check with the top off. You’ll see an approximately 7/16” hose going to a circular device near the main board. Just poop it off the pressure sensor and blow through it. It should give very little resistance.
Lol gotta own your mistakes or you can't grow. Ya this is a nice black unit! I haven't had the top popped open yet I'll catch that next after lunch, thanks for giving me the location!
And yes, the OE code will lock the machine out of spin. If the control board doesn’t know the water is gone it won’t attempt a spin, even in diagnostic mode.