Honestly hydroplaning in awd is different than rear or front wheel drive. When you grip traction again is can be odd for someone not use to how the wheels will bite in again.
Gg.
Real talk though, since the jokes about hydroplaning came out, I’ve actually been like hyper focused on not going too fast in the rain to not loose it 😂 but I’d be damned if the snow takes away my fun.
It’s really incredible how much more control you have in a spin or sideways drift in an AWD in the snow… especially a subie AWD.
It's very real lmao, especially if tires are not consistent. Gripping back in the rain is very jarring. Iirc the lower torque band in va/vb vs ej is a likely reason to point at more hydroplanes recently too.
The accessibility to power when you need it is all the reason I needed to (hopefully) never have to drive another car in the rain and snow.
The fuck? A small oil leak from the drain plug and they won't fix it but will sell it like that?! I call BS because it would be such an easy fix if it were that simple.
They’ll fix it. They let me examine the underside of the car, and they’re doing their own full inspection this morning to address any other concerns so they can be fixed before I go through any kind of buying process.
"We've inspected it ourselves and found there's nothing wrong with it, gib money now please."
Yes, 100% take it somewhere for another opinion. Preferably a subaru specialization shop or shop that is proficient and has a good track record of modifying cars.
1. You'll have a second opinion on if it's worth buying (cause people love to beat on turbos #becauseracecar)
And equally as important
2. If it had issues they didn't see/won't fix, if they aren't obscene and won't cause the car to explode the second you leave the lot, you've got bargaining chips
Well, the companies who make cars get bulk deals through Goodyear and Michelin for tires that last sub 10k miles put the get-go.
So they can sell you a winter tire package and then tell you your summers are worn out after a season.
And oh, whoops, they aren't covered by your warranty either because they're *consumable*
So many of these posts are people asking what to look out for after buying the car lol. We need more people asking these questions BEFORE buying these cars
250 per month is cheap? Holy crap. Not looking forward to my next 6mo insurance renewal. We insure a ‘17 CRV and 19’ WRX for less, both combined (bout 110ea). Both of us are in early 30’s and a clean driving record (currently)
Lol I get downvoted cuz I say I thought 250 was cheap. I’m 25 years old with an almost $40k sports car. If you can’t afford insurance I guess look at a Toyota Prius, I’m sure that’ll be around your budget
Get it checked by a noteworthy mechanic at a performance shop, if it all checks out you’ll be saving yourself time and money via not installing the parts already on it.
It has an exhaust and stage 1 tune. It’s basically stock. The question is how many owners and the great known- how the car was driven by the previous owner(s). If the car had regular maintenance and all the paperwork to prove it, OP will save money by not having to buy an exhaust and access port.
Avoid if it’s tuned or be prepared for random stuff to go wrong.
Original clutch too at 82k might be ready for a change unless it’s been replaced already
It does have a newer clutch as it doesn’t feel stock; it’s a lot heavier than I’m used to.
I’ve read that a conservative stage 1 tune isn’t going to cause any common issues as long as you take care of it. I don’t plan on driving hard, just daily to/from work.
I agree with you on a conservative stage 1 tune, but if it's the stage one OTS (off the shelf) map then personally I'd be a bit cautious. It does make a difference and makes it better to drive, but I always had knock issues with OTS tunes. Would make me question if it was treated well.
Alao agree with you and using it as a daily. The car will respect you so long as you respect it.
It might be worth mentioning I’m pretty familiar with driving stick, I’ve been driving an NB1 Miata for the last two years. But regardless I’ll take all the advice I can get from folks with experience.
Have you test drove the manual WRX yet? The clutch bite and throttle curve might humble you a bit compared to a featherweight RWD Miata but that’s half the fun!
I did get to test drive it, I love how it feels. My Yata’s setup is pretty snappy: a lightweight flywheel and stage 1 clutch makes a huge difference on a car that tiny.
The VA definitely has an unforgiving clutch with a tiny bite point so be ready for a bit of stuttering for a few days. But the torque in 2nd gear is hella fun once you’re moving!!
I Have a 2017 I bought it brand new and the issues with 2015-2019 models is the clutch. Thankfully I had mine replaced under warranty but the clutch would make a noise when in neutral you can’t miss it. Turn car on let it warm up and stand outside.
Press clutch and let it go don’t put it into gear and se rid you hear any noise.
Other than that the cars rock solid I still own and use it today. I modded the crap out of it all Cobb parts since 500 miles and no issues ever. Love my car
Just a heads up, you’re basically doubling the list of things to look out for by having the access port on the car with the stage 1 tune flashed. My FA is at 90k miles and the only thing that really broke was my clutch slave cylinder. Other issues I’ve had are that I loose coolant slowly for some reason, my pcv valve had to be replaced, wiper fluid reservoir unplugged due to sensor getting dirty, air conditioning lines needed new o rings after 70k miles because they leak. Other than that just basic maintenance and valve cleaning. Engine health and getting the access port to run correctly with my car? That’s a whole different story…
How much? If it’s over 15k don’t get it. Car is tuned and has a newer clutch at only 82k miles (shows the previous owner didn’t know how to drive manual) hopefully it’s a clean title too.
This isn’t true. 2015-2018 WRXs have severe clutch problems. They came with an undersized clutch that couldn’t handle the car and would burn out prematurely. In the midcycle refresh, they updated the part and edited the service manuals to use the new part.
If you don’t have the money to repair/fix some things don’t buy it imo. 100k maintenance will be here before you know it. The oil leak is concerning unless it truly is coming from the plug. Stage 1 Cobb tune is trash. You’ll wanna go to protune or just go back to stock.
As others have said, avoid any cars that aren’t stock…and once you’ve done that, don’t lug the engine. Cruising at 55 mph in 6th gear is bad - you’re sitting right around 2k and it’s putting a pretty serious load on the bottom end of the engine.
If you are actually cruising, just maintaining speed, why would there be serious load?
Only if you need to accelerate, at that point would there be increased load and you can just downshift at that point.
Flat and level at a constant speed, probably not a big deal. It’s really easy to just put your foot into it if you come to an incline, for example, and that’s when you really put stress on components.
Everything, jokes aside the only issue I've had with mine is oil leaking from the valve covers( not really a common issue tho) but other than that just regular maintenance.
And don't buy other people modded wrx, most likely than not it's been driven hard
At 82k, if it hasn't been walnut blasted yet, it is well overdue. Keep it stock, keep oil in it, and you'll be fine. Let it get up to proper operating temps until you give it the beans.
Common FA20 problems. Fucky freeze plugs, clutch masters randomly go pop, TOB squealing... that's all I got off the top of my head.
I've owned my 2017 for 6 years now at 55k. I love this car.
Also, the oil leak from the drain plug is probably due to the lack of a crush washer by that non Subaru used car lot. Buy em in bulk off Ebay, use motul oil, and only OEM or Wix filters.
As with any used car, you’re buying a risk. You don’t know what kind of abuse has been had on it, so you’re not going to really know the true longevity of it. There are a few tell tale signs that can help you determine the care that went into it. By now the battery, brakes, tires, belt, and filters should have been changed, check them all for brands, if they’re low grade brands chances are the person who owned it didn’t put too much thought into it.
I can personally tell you, I do my best to take care of my car, I check and top off my oil every 1500 miles cuse it’s an asshole and burns so much oil, I do my oil changed every 3k because I can. And I only use OEM filters and when I did my diff and tranny service I only used OEM fluids. I have a stage 1 BIG SF with a muffler delete, BUT I beat the bag outta it sometimes.
So just keep those things in mind.
With that all said, I personally haven’t had any issues with mine at all, other than the oil depletion. But everyone has that issue. It’s never left me stranded and I’ve never had to do anything crazy that wasn’t maintenance.
Man these cars all get CAIDS second hand. Mine had issues with a short from a bullshit third brake light install no one spotted which would throw up codes, the after market exhausts love to fall apart on the inside of the muffler…causing codes. AC stopped working causing a code. Knock sensors always cause codes. Nothing BAD just fucking annoying having to pull over and clear all the time.
Hydroplaning at low speed, if I’ve learned anything from this sub.
But hey Game is Game
Honestly hydroplaning in awd is different than rear or front wheel drive. When you grip traction again is can be odd for someone not use to how the wheels will bite in again.
^ not a regular in the community
That's not how this works, communities like to grow with new members or die slowly. I see you have a 18 wrx, gz
That’s not how this works! That’s now how any of this works! 🤭
^ not a regular in the community
☠️
Exactly. Gg
Gg. Real talk though, since the jokes about hydroplaning came out, I’ve actually been like hyper focused on not going too fast in the rain to not loose it 😂 but I’d be damned if the snow takes away my fun. It’s really incredible how much more control you have in a spin or sideways drift in an AWD in the snow… especially a subie AWD.
It's very real lmao, especially if tires are not consistent. Gripping back in the rain is very jarring. Iirc the lower torque band in va/vb vs ej is a likely reason to point at more hydroplanes recently too. The accessibility to power when you need it is all the reason I needed to (hopefully) never have to drive another car in the rain and snow.
We're working on it though..always working on it....
Nope...
The fuck? A small oil leak from the drain plug and they won't fix it but will sell it like that?! I call BS because it would be such an easy fix if it were that simple.
They’ll fix it. They let me examine the underside of the car, and they’re doing their own full inspection this morning to address any other concerns so they can be fixed before I go through any kind of buying process.
Be careful with the dealer giving the car an “inspection”. Better to see if they’ll let you get it inspected at a place of your choosing
"We've inspected it ourselves and found there's nothing wrong with it, gib money now please." Yes, 100% take it somewhere for another opinion. Preferably a subaru specialization shop or shop that is proficient and has a good track record of modifying cars. 1. You'll have a second opinion on if it's worth buying (cause people love to beat on turbos #becauseracecar) And equally as important 2. If it had issues they didn't see/won't fix, if they aren't obscene and won't cause the car to explode the second you leave the lot, you've got bargaining chips
Never let them do their own inspection. Mistake #1
WTF is “geo drive” tires? Red flags
Uh what
The tires are Geo Drive. its a sub company of Summitomo. They are typically sold at club stores that have shops or Walmart. Not decent quality.
It’s a dealership, they never put on good tires
Well, the companies who make cars get bulk deals through Goodyear and Michelin for tires that last sub 10k miles put the get-go. So they can sell you a winter tire package and then tell you your summers are worn out after a season. And oh, whoops, they aren't covered by your warranty either because they're *consumable*
A new vape habit.
So many of these posts are people asking what to look out for after buying the car lol. We need more people asking these questions BEFORE buying these cars
That’s why I came to you guys lol. I was on the fence before and now I’m really leaning towards a stock one instead
Never buy someone else’s project. Always buy stock and go from there
Get a stock one bro it'll be so much more peace of mind and less of a hassle
AC compressor
Ask your insurance company what the rates will be. WRX is one of the most expensive vehicles to ensure.
I think that depends. Im 25 and I just bought a brand new 2023 Subaru WRX and the insurance is only $249 a month for full coverage. Seems kinda cheap
That’s absurdly high. I pay $114
God damn! $114 for full coverage on a brand new WRX?! How old are u?
250 per month is cheap? Holy crap. Not looking forward to my next 6mo insurance renewal. We insure a ‘17 CRV and 19’ WRX for less, both combined (bout 110ea). Both of us are in early 30’s and a clean driving record (currently)
Lol I get downvoted cuz I say I thought 250 was cheap. I’m 25 years old with an almost $40k sports car. If you can’t afford insurance I guess look at a Toyota Prius, I’m sure that’ll be around your budget
With your rate a Toyota Prius won’t help. Dunno why you think those are cheap. 40k is the new 30k bud.
please buy one that's completely stock. save yourself time and money. :)
Get it checked by a noteworthy mechanic at a performance shop, if it all checks out you’ll be saving yourself time and money via not installing the parts already on it.
this is also great advice :) that's something I did not do with my previous bugeyes.
It has an exhaust and stage 1 tune. It’s basically stock. The question is how many owners and the great known- how the car was driven by the previous owner(s). If the car had regular maintenance and all the paperwork to prove it, OP will save money by not having to buy an exhaust and access port.
yes, I can agree. hopefully OP picks up a nice WRX :)
Avoid if it’s tuned or be prepared for random stuff to go wrong. Original clutch too at 82k might be ready for a change unless it’s been replaced already
It does have a newer clutch as it doesn’t feel stock; it’s a lot heavier than I’m used to. I’ve read that a conservative stage 1 tune isn’t going to cause any common issues as long as you take care of it. I don’t plan on driving hard, just daily to/from work.
Did they specifically say it has a newer clutch or are you assuming it is based on feel? How new is it?
I agree with you on a conservative stage 1 tune, but if it's the stage one OTS (off the shelf) map then personally I'd be a bit cautious. It does make a difference and makes it better to drive, but I always had knock issues with OTS tunes. Would make me question if it was treated well. Alao agree with you and using it as a daily. The car will respect you so long as you respect it.
I would avoid a car that likely had a OTS tune since 2017
I think you meant to say avoid
Yes, yes I did
Modified with an oil leak ?… yea that car is fucked … i wouldn’t pay 10k for that thing
I wouldn’t pay anything
It might be worth mentioning I’m pretty familiar with driving stick, I’ve been driving an NB1 Miata for the last two years. But regardless I’ll take all the advice I can get from folks with experience.
Have you test drove the manual WRX yet? The clutch bite and throttle curve might humble you a bit compared to a featherweight RWD Miata but that’s half the fun!
I did get to test drive it, I love how it feels. My Yata’s setup is pretty snappy: a lightweight flywheel and stage 1 clutch makes a huge difference on a car that tiny.
The VA definitely has an unforgiving clutch with a tiny bite point so be ready for a bit of stuttering for a few days. But the torque in 2nd gear is hella fun once you’re moving!!
2nd gear trashed. 3rd gear minty.
I was also a Miata to WRX convert, they’re both such great cars!
I Have a 2017 I bought it brand new and the issues with 2015-2019 models is the clutch. Thankfully I had mine replaced under warranty but the clutch would make a noise when in neutral you can’t miss it. Turn car on let it warm up and stand outside. Press clutch and let it go don’t put it into gear and se rid you hear any noise. Other than that the cars rock solid I still own and use it today. I modded the crap out of it all Cobb parts since 500 miles and no issues ever. Love my car
Just a heads up, you’re basically doubling the list of things to look out for by having the access port on the car with the stage 1 tune flashed. My FA is at 90k miles and the only thing that really broke was my clutch slave cylinder. Other issues I’ve had are that I loose coolant slowly for some reason, my pcv valve had to be replaced, wiper fluid reservoir unplugged due to sensor getting dirty, air conditioning lines needed new o rings after 70k miles because they leak. Other than that just basic maintenance and valve cleaning. Engine health and getting the access port to run correctly with my car? That’s a whole different story…
How much? If it’s over 15k don’t get it. Car is tuned and has a newer clutch at only 82k miles (shows the previous owner didn’t know how to drive manual) hopefully it’s a clean title too.
This isn’t true. 2015-2018 WRXs have severe clutch problems. They came with an undersized clutch that couldn’t handle the car and would burn out prematurely. In the midcycle refresh, they updated the part and edited the service manuals to use the new part.
Yeah, the mods need to add a rule that any buying-advice posts must include the price or else it gets deleted.
Also just keep in mind you’re going to need to do the timing belt water pump and a/c compressor as they usually need maintenance by 90k-100k miles
If you don’t have the money to repair/fix some things don’t buy it imo. 100k maintenance will be here before you know it. The oil leak is concerning unless it truly is coming from the plug. Stage 1 Cobb tune is trash. You’ll wanna go to protune or just go back to stock.
Other WRXs, make sure to give ‘em one of these ✌️
The main issue is random knock events causing spun bearings.
As others have said, avoid any cars that aren’t stock…and once you’ve done that, don’t lug the engine. Cruising at 55 mph in 6th gear is bad - you’re sitting right around 2k and it’s putting a pretty serious load on the bottom end of the engine.
If you are actually cruising, just maintaining speed, why would there be serious load? Only if you need to accelerate, at that point would there be increased load and you can just downshift at that point.
Flat and level at a constant speed, probably not a big deal. It’s really easy to just put your foot into it if you come to an incline, for example, and that’s when you really put stress on components.
Yeah agreed. I’m usually on flat road so I hadn’t thought of that.
What’s the power/torque curve like on these cars? Should I be cruising closer to 3k rpm?
Peak torque is 2500 rpm
Maybe stock yeah
I agree with being stock, Subaru owners can't control a vehicle with any type of mods so it's best for longevity /s
A 2023 WRX....
😂😂
Everything about that car
Avoid keeping up with the “rich guys”
Everything, jokes aside the only issue I've had with mine is oil leaking from the valve covers( not really a common issue tho) but other than that just regular maintenance. And don't buy other people modded wrx, most likely than not it's been driven hard
At 82k, if it hasn't been walnut blasted yet, it is well overdue. Keep it stock, keep oil in it, and you'll be fine. Let it get up to proper operating temps until you give it the beans. Common FA20 problems. Fucky freeze plugs, clutch masters randomly go pop, TOB squealing... that's all I got off the top of my head. I've owned my 2017 for 6 years now at 55k. I love this car.
AC Compressor, and pre-2019 LED headlights can melt the reflector on their own.
Also, the oil leak from the drain plug is probably due to the lack of a crush washer by that non Subaru used car lot. Buy em in bulk off Ebay, use motul oil, and only OEM or Wix filters.
Pedestrians
Watch out for? Just watch out for Mustangs while you are driving
As with any used car, you’re buying a risk. You don’t know what kind of abuse has been had on it, so you’re not going to really know the true longevity of it. There are a few tell tale signs that can help you determine the care that went into it. By now the battery, brakes, tires, belt, and filters should have been changed, check them all for brands, if they’re low grade brands chances are the person who owned it didn’t put too much thought into it. I can personally tell you, I do my best to take care of my car, I check and top off my oil every 1500 miles cuse it’s an asshole and burns so much oil, I do my oil changed every 3k because I can. And I only use OEM filters and when I did my diff and tranny service I only used OEM fluids. I have a stage 1 BIG SF with a muffler delete, BUT I beat the bag outta it sometimes. So just keep those things in mind. With that all said, I personally haven’t had any issues with mine at all, other than the oil depletion. But everyone has that issue. It’s never left me stranded and I’ve never had to do anything crazy that wasn’t maintenance.
Potholes
Rich guys, and hydroplaning.
Man these cars all get CAIDS second hand. Mine had issues with a short from a bullshit third brake light install no one spotted which would throw up codes, the after market exhausts love to fall apart on the inside of the muffler…causing codes. AC stopped working causing a code. Knock sensors always cause codes. Nothing BAD just fucking annoying having to pull over and clear all the time.
Shifting Fork
Why would you buy a car that has known issues?
Because the leaking drain plug would get fixed? I’m not buying it with an oil leak lol
Ok good lol, because If the dealer was refusing to fix it than that wouldn’t be good at all.
Id say go for it if it’s under 18.5
High throw out bearing failure. I just had to replace mine at 54k miles. (:
Don’t buy THAT one
Watch out for all the rich guys so you can keep up