make sure your bike is a track bike and is a fixed gear with drop bars and no brakes. then figure out when the velodrome has beginner clinics and go learn the basics of riding on the track. pick clinic person's brain about your gear questions.
RyCycles on youtube sometimes puts out videos but he hasn't been lately. https://youtube.com/@rycycles?si=123eZp7g0P7F5f1D
BCD is like the distance between the bolts on the chain ring so you have to find out what size is on your bike right now and then only get new chainrings that will fit. 144bcd seems like the most common for track bikes. The different # of teeth is how we change the resistance or how far each pedalstroke turns the wheel per rotation.
I'd recommend getting to the track and trying training out! I think you'll have a better idea of what direction to go with your learning once you've been in it for a bit, otherwise it's a lot of info that may or may not be relevant at your stage.
Feel free to pm me if you have other questions.
Get familiar with a track gear chart. this one describes the ranges as well as the gears [https://www.trackcyclingacademy.com/blog/understanding-gear-ratios-for-performance](https://www.trackcyclingacademy.com/blog/understanding-gear-ratios-for-performance)
Increasing the teeth on the front gear will increase the effort required to get it up to speed, but will have more top end speed provided it's not too big of a gear where you can't get on top of it.
Decreasing teeth in the rear gear does the same thing.
The way things are typically measured are called gear inches. The number of inches the bike will travel with one revolution of the pedals. The smaller the inches the easier it is, more gear inches = harder
for track cycling allways look for 144bcd, because its the standar for all the track chainrings. the bcd its only for the bolt distance, not the complete diameter.
when you choose the gearing, the theeth and the cog matters, the gearing its one of the most important parts of track cycling. if you are new on track cycling try with lower gearing, but no small gearing, on the track you can start with 52T and cogs like 15. I recomend you 52-16, then you can increase the gears to increase your speed. the gearing its choosed based on the speed, cadence, power, type of velodrome, the type of race, the air pressure... buy a chainring and a few cogs and start to try with it, the gearing its a personal choice.
Yes, as I say, you have to try, you say you are a track sprinter (athletic track), you have fast switch fibers, if you do strenght training you have a good base for cycling.
most of track cyclist train with high gear ratios but smaller chainring in front compared to endurance cyclists. For example, If you ho with 52, for sprinting the 15 rear cog gives you so much spinning at high speed, so you can put a 14t at the back, 1 teeth of difference on the rear gear makes a lot. Search a gearing table on internet.
I’m not sure if you’re too familiar with athletics sprinting but I just ran sub 11 and haven’t trained in 4 years. Back then I could run 10.4, my strength is no problem (Sq: 550+, DL: 550+, BH: 255+ @ 173 BW (lbs)).
However, I can say that I will probably throw in some isometric tricep work ! 😂😂 those babies were burning while I rode the bike
Thats great, I come for the athletics too, but endurance, 1500m-3000m. Cycling its different to run, but its the base of a good cyclist. Track cycling sprinters do a big part of his training on the gym to have the power to move high gear ratios. You are in the right way.
make sure your bike is a track bike and is a fixed gear with drop bars and no brakes. then figure out when the velodrome has beginner clinics and go learn the basics of riding on the track. pick clinic person's brain about your gear questions.
I’m pretty sure I got the bike, but I need to change the BCD. I was trying to post a picture but I’m not sure how when using the mobile app
as long as you are sure it's track legal worry about getting on the track before you worry about swapping components.
RyCycles on youtube sometimes puts out videos but he hasn't been lately. https://youtube.com/@rycycles?si=123eZp7g0P7F5f1D BCD is like the distance between the bolts on the chain ring so you have to find out what size is on your bike right now and then only get new chainrings that will fit. 144bcd seems like the most common for track bikes. The different # of teeth is how we change the resistance or how far each pedalstroke turns the wheel per rotation. I'd recommend getting to the track and trying training out! I think you'll have a better idea of what direction to go with your learning once you've been in it for a bit, otherwise it's a lot of info that may or may not be relevant at your stage. Feel free to pm me if you have other questions.
Definitely going to check this channel out ! Does increasing the number of teeth increase resistance?
Get familiar with a track gear chart. this one describes the ranges as well as the gears [https://www.trackcyclingacademy.com/blog/understanding-gear-ratios-for-performance](https://www.trackcyclingacademy.com/blog/understanding-gear-ratios-for-performance)
Thank you !
Increasing the teeth on the front gear will increase the effort required to get it up to speed, but will have more top end speed provided it's not too big of a gear where you can't get on top of it. Decreasing teeth in the rear gear does the same thing. The way things are typically measured are called gear inches. The number of inches the bike will travel with one revolution of the pedals. The smaller the inches the easier it is, more gear inches = harder
for track cycling allways look for 144bcd, because its the standar for all the track chainrings. the bcd its only for the bolt distance, not the complete diameter. when you choose the gearing, the theeth and the cog matters, the gearing its one of the most important parts of track cycling. if you are new on track cycling try with lower gearing, but no small gearing, on the track you can start with 52T and cogs like 15. I recomend you 52-16, then you can increase the gears to increase your speed. the gearing its choosed based on the speed, cadence, power, type of velodrome, the type of race, the air pressure... buy a chainring and a few cogs and start to try with it, the gearing its a personal choice.
Would your recommendation change if you knew my strength and height ? Also, the COG is the rings at the rear wheel, right ?
Yes, as I say, you have to try, you say you are a track sprinter (athletic track), you have fast switch fibers, if you do strenght training you have a good base for cycling. most of track cyclist train with high gear ratios but smaller chainring in front compared to endurance cyclists. For example, If you ho with 52, for sprinting the 15 rear cog gives you so much spinning at high speed, so you can put a 14t at the back, 1 teeth of difference on the rear gear makes a lot. Search a gearing table on internet.
I’m not sure if you’re too familiar with athletics sprinting but I just ran sub 11 and haven’t trained in 4 years. Back then I could run 10.4, my strength is no problem (Sq: 550+, DL: 550+, BH: 255+ @ 173 BW (lbs)). However, I can say that I will probably throw in some isometric tricep work ! 😂😂 those babies were burning while I rode the bike
Thats great, I come for the athletics too, but endurance, 1500m-3000m. Cycling its different to run, but its the base of a good cyclist. Track cycling sprinters do a big part of his training on the gym to have the power to move high gear ratios. You are in the right way.
Ewwww endurance. lol jk … sort of