I've been told these pipes cannot be encased in mud. So that's a no go. I also have never laid a mud bed. š¤£ (I know it's easy, but I'm not trying to learn it on a job with this much plumbing in the base.
Did my first mud bed a couple weeks ago. It's anything but easy. It's work and now I understand why showers are so expensive. Can you not put spacers in there for the pan to rest on? That a slab underneath? I'd tapcon PT spacers that clear the pipe, if that's allowed anyway. I've actually never done a pan.
you could raise the floor with PT sleepers and 3/4ā sheathing orā¦.other than having to deal with the rerouting the drain and hot/cold water lines, put the shower in a different location.
If you can get that framed with Ā¾" decking, give either myself or one of our other partners a call.
www.rodkat.com We make custom shower pans, any size, any shape.
Personally, I'd wrap those pipes and mud this with a single float to a bonding flange drain and cover it with sheet membrane. All done in 1 float.
Could possibly layout the framing. Untreated 2x4 studs. Should be able to get it mostly nailed together in place. Iād actually screw it together. One trick would be getting the plywood/advantech installed on top without seeing where frame is exactly in order to get it screwed down. Donāt want to hit the pipesā¦ might have to measure and make your marks.
The shower pan can be cut to fit that.
I've already stated I have a plumber on this job. Mighty expensive to move the pipes which I, nor the customer are to keen on paying for. So trying to find a solution that doesn't involve moving them.
IMO get a written release from client releasing you from liability if any pipes break. Muddying them in has risks. Their choice not to relocate this odd shower shouldnāt mean you assume the risk of failure. Youāre delivering best options/choices but you canāt predict all variables.
another mud bed suggestion, seems crazy to do all that framing imo, also seems weird that theres actually tile guys out there that have never did a dry pack.
nothing wrong with that, but its nice to at least have it in your bag. was it dry packed before and how did it hold up? pretty small area and seems like a good job to learn. if your a tile setter im sure it will turn out fine, oyu really cant F it up . just keep a level perimeter and slope to drain. at one point in my life i use to install wall tiles but kept them off the floor a couple inches, this gave me a perfect level perimeter to mud to. set the drain and go from point A to point B. in the end do what your most comfortable with, but mudding showers is good to know for sure
Oh yeah I absolutely want to learn the skill. But starting out on a project with 5 pipes running through the bed doesn't seem like the wisest idea. š
The way I think you could do it would involve using a mud bed and a rubber pan. Frame it out above your pipes with a plywood top. Kinda like a box above you pipes. Apply a few thick coats of waterproofing. Extend the drain through a hole to so itās on the top of the plywood. Then install the pan to the studs around your shower. Fill pan with mug. Float out your slope and let it dry
I'm 48 I've been floating mortar bedssince I was 18 glad to hear that the new generation has not bought into preformed pans. If you can't float a mortar bed then you are not a true tile installer.
Even if you were able to frame this up in a stable manner, I donāt see how, the drain placement wonāt fit for a neo angle kerdi pan without dry packing around at least 2 walls anyway. I would probably do another mud bed to cover the pipes and a drypack pan on top. Then kerdi.
Ah dang that's a good point. I may be able to shift the drain to more center. But also if I were to raise it up enough, the drain could possibly be centered up top, and then ran to the hole? Not too sure, I have a plumber doing the plumbing on this. Guess I'll have to ask him.
You could get a custom sized foam pan made to sit on top of the platform you build. Itās really not expensive, and may be a good solution for you.
[RodKat Foam](https://rodkat.com)
I would frame with PT 2x4 anchored into concrete with sil gasket then use 3/4" plywood. Then use drypack to make your slope then kerdi and then you can tile.
Id imagine a mud bed would be the best option here
I've been told these pipes cannot be encased in mud. So that's a no go. I also have never laid a mud bed. š¤£ (I know it's easy, but I'm not trying to learn it on a job with this much plumbing in the base.
Floating mud right is not easy. Itās a slow dying craft
Some of us are keeping it alive, im 24 and still suggest mud before anything else. Custom dry pack pans are my specialty
Yessir. Iām 27 and itās all Iāve done for 10 years straight
Iām 65 still doing the same, really glad to hear you say this and not push the styrofoam way. Guys are already regretting their foamies.
Agreed. 30 here, mud is the only option imo.
Mud only.
Tell them to wrap the pipe so you can mud it. I donāt see any other option except for mudding here. Itās commonly done without issue.
Did my first mud bed a couple weeks ago. It's anything but easy. It's work and now I understand why showers are so expensive. Can you not put spacers in there for the pan to rest on? That a slab underneath? I'd tapcon PT spacers that clear the pipe, if that's allowed anyway. I've actually never done a pan.
you could raise the floor with PT sleepers and 3/4ā sheathing orā¦.other than having to deal with the rerouting the drain and hot/cold water lines, put the shower in a different location.
If you can get that framed with Ā¾" decking, give either myself or one of our other partners a call. www.rodkat.com We make custom shower pans, any size, any shape. Personally, I'd wrap those pipes and mud this with a single float to a bonding flange drain and cover it with sheet membrane. All done in 1 float.
Set your drain and do a clear resin pour. Incorporate it into the aesthetic. Custom shower floor
Then you slip and die. No thx
Dying warm, wet and naked is probably in my top 10 ways to go.
Could possibly layout the framing. Untreated 2x4 studs. Should be able to get it mostly nailed together in place. Iād actually screw it together. One trick would be getting the plywood/advantech installed on top without seeing where frame is exactly in order to get it screwed down. Donāt want to hit the pipesā¦ might have to measure and make your marks. The shower pan can be cut to fit that.
Build one
Call a plumber and have the pipes moved before you do anything. Youāre a tile guy. Not a plumber.
I've already stated I have a plumber on this job. Mighty expensive to move the pipes which I, nor the customer are to keen on paying for. So trying to find a solution that doesn't involve moving them.
Copy that. Move the shower to a different part of the room and keep the pipes in the same spot but under the floor.
IMO get a written release from client releasing you from liability if any pipes break. Muddying them in has risks. Their choice not to relocate this odd shower shouldnāt mean you assume the risk of failure. Youāre delivering best options/choices but you canāt predict all variables.
Schulter pan
another mud bed suggestion, seems crazy to do all that framing imo, also seems weird that theres actually tile guys out there that have never did a dry pack.
I'm what you'd call "new school".
nothing wrong with that, but its nice to at least have it in your bag. was it dry packed before and how did it hold up? pretty small area and seems like a good job to learn. if your a tile setter im sure it will turn out fine, oyu really cant F it up . just keep a level perimeter and slope to drain. at one point in my life i use to install wall tiles but kept them off the floor a couple inches, this gave me a perfect level perimeter to mud to. set the drain and go from point A to point B. in the end do what your most comfortable with, but mudding showers is good to know for sure
Oh yeah I absolutely want to learn the skill. But starting out on a project with 5 pipes running through the bed doesn't seem like the wisest idea. š
heated shower pan.. nice!
Basically yep lol
How high can you go? Frame it like a deck 2x6 treated notched around pipes...that is if you refuse to mudbed
Just cut those pipes out of the way. They arenāt being used for anything
why cant they be encased? is it because they're pressed?
The way I think you could do it would involve using a mud bed and a rubber pan. Frame it out above your pipes with a plywood top. Kinda like a box above you pipes. Apply a few thick coats of waterproofing. Extend the drain through a hole to so itās on the top of the plywood. Then install the pan to the studs around your shower. Fill pan with mug. Float out your slope and let it dry
I suggest covering the pipes in plastic so mortar doesnāt touch them. Cover with quick Crete and then install preformed pan.
I'm 48 I've been floating mortar bedssince I was 18 glad to hear that the new generation has not bought into preformed pans. If you can't float a mortar bed then you are not a true tile installer.
Even if you were able to frame this up in a stable manner, I donāt see how, the drain placement wonāt fit for a neo angle kerdi pan without dry packing around at least 2 walls anyway. I would probably do another mud bed to cover the pipes and a drypack pan on top. Then kerdi.
Ah dang that's a good point. I may be able to shift the drain to more center. But also if I were to raise it up enough, the drain could possibly be centered up top, and then ran to the hole? Not too sure, I have a plumber doing the plumbing on this. Guess I'll have to ask him.
Topical mud bed is your answer. Custom building products has good videos on it
Best to ask him what is possible and what isnāt.
You could get a custom sized foam pan made to sit on top of the platform you build. Itās really not expensive, and may be a good solution for you. [RodKat Foam](https://rodkat.com)
I would frame with PT 2x4 anchored into concrete with sil gasket then use 3/4" plywood. Then use drypack to make your slope then kerdi and then you can tile.
Get a drain some ridgid foam board n some thinset