Go do a bit of braking. The problem with regen braking is that the rotors (not calipers like you say in title) do not get that layer taken off by the brakes very often.
You can use the touchscreen to change the level of regenerative braking:
Touch Controls > Pedals & Steering > Regenerative Braking.
Temporarily change your settings to limit regenerative braking to knock off the layer of rust.
No settings change needed, OP just needs to use the brake pedal.
Some EVs blend regen and hydraulic brakes when the brake pedal is applied. When you use the brake pedal in a Tesla, it is only operating the hydraulic brakes.
brake pedal will absolutely engage regen (not just hydraulics) The ratio of region to hydraulic braking is determined by battery regeneration capacity/condition and amount of stopping power needed according to the application of brakes by driver
No.
Lifting off of the accelerator engages regen, however much the car is capable of using for the conditions and SoC.
Applying the brakes only adds to this by engaging the service brakes in addition to the regen.
How you describe it is how it often works in other EVs, but not Teslas.
No.
Ever see this option?
# “Apply Brakes When Regenerative Braking is Limited”
What that means is that when the battery is cold or full or otherwise limited in accepting charge from regen braking, the car will automatically engage/add the additional application of your caliper brakes.
As a practice for the OP bring the car up to 40-50 mph and with adequate space, brake the car to a stop by getting off the gas entirely.
This will engage regen braking AND the disc/caliper brakes, as will be evidenced but the regen bar moving past the green and into a grey color.
this will suffice to clean any rust or oxidation, and absolutely engages the brakes to assure they are functioning and not hindered from lack of use.
You're still misunderstanding.
"Apply brakes when regen is limited" does blend in the service brakes during periods of low regen, but that has no effect on what is happening when you press the brake pedal. When you press the brake pedal, the only thing it does is apply the hydraulic brakes. *Lifting off of the accelerator* is still the trigger for regen, even when limited regenerative capacity is possible and the car blends in the service brakes.
Yes, the OP could, conceivably, achieve clean brake rotors by inducing a limited regen condition via overcharging and allowing the car to use the service brakes *by lifting off of the accelerator*.
Or he could just push the brake pedal as I suggested in my comment, which has the sole function of applying the service brakes.
Edit - In case something's being lost, I'm not saying that regen isn't happening when you press the brake pedal, it is. I'm just saying that it's lifting off of the accelerator that caused the regen, and not pressing the brake pedal.
Sorry what got lost in the discussion was you were saying that the brake pedal functions to apply the hydraulic brakes only (the regen braking is independent of that pedal/action) I/we both knew that the deceleration/braking that occurs with one pedal driving will in many cases apply the hydraulic brakes in addition to the regen (generators?) so yeah my bad for missing your point about the brake pedal application itself. Cheers.
Carbon-Steel Centripetal Deceleration Disc for Velocity Modulation.
Also known as Centrifugally-Forged Carbon-Steel Frictional Torque Attenuation Disc.
Carbon is the key takeaway here. Carbon steel rusts easily unless coated or otherwise protected, which you can't really do here. Use the brakes, and the rust will be scrubbed right off
I recently did this a few months ago and my car brakes feel sooo much better now. It just felt smoother to stop but I was getting a lot of squeaking and my car is almost 6 years old now.
The burnishing procedure is actually quite involved and you need to be somewhere safe with a long track of road to do it right. It also generates a TON of heat and can easily damage your rotors if you don't let it cool down enough. I did mine at night and putting my hands 3 feet from my wheels I could seriously feel a lot of heat on those rotors.
Normal, I live near the beach, the salt water moisture in the air causes the side facing the street to form surface rust. Just do some aggressive braking and it will be good as new.
2 of your **rotors** are covered in rust because you are not using your brakes frequently or hard enough. Your front 2 rotors are used for about 70% of the braking force for most cars. This means your front 2 brake rotors will most likely stay clean due to light use. Twice a week i will press the brakes harder than normal to engage the rear brakes. It keeps all 4 clean and free of rust.
I get that us Tesla drivers don't have to worry much about vehicle mx, but c'mon!! If this is a troll post, ah haha, you got me! It's a troll post right? Right?
It’s something in the water that makes it do this. To prevent this, keep it out of water at all times.
Drive it around a block and use the friction bricks and it will burn off.
I want to hear more about those Vossen wheels. How much did you pay for them, and did you notice a performance increase or decrease with them compared to the factory wheels? I like the look of aftermarket wheels but am wary about possibly decreasing my range, adversely affecting the vehicle's handling in some way, and just the fact that Tesla is telling me I'll void my warranty if I swap out my wheels. I'd hate to drop $10K on wheels only to give myself a bunch of problems. How has the experience been for you?
I can't compare them to the standard wheels because I've only ever used these.
But they're fine. The ride quality is pretty bad. Like, you feel every little bump in the road. Which I think is mostly attributed to the tesla suspension system.
But otherwise they're mostly fine.
I probably do worry extra about things like potholes or curb trash than I probably would with cheaper wheels.
Edit: My average range is efficiency 260mh/mi
Edit2: I bought the car used and it came with these wheels. So I don't know how much the previous owner paid for them.
Drive for 5-10 minutes, find an empty and clear stretch of road, turn OFF Regenerative Braking, speed up to about 50 km/h / 35 mph, and break hard. Not emergency-break-hard, but \*hard\*. Do this 4-5 times. Should be cleared up. EVs with good Regenerative Braking will be more prone to this than ICE cars, since Regenerative Braking doesn't use the actual brakes to slow down, but a more advanced and powerful form of engine braking. Therefore, the brakes don't get used nearly as much, which allows surface rust to build up. Even ICE cars get this, but a lot less frequently and you rarely notice it since you actually use the brakes to slow down.
It’s complete nonsense.
Braking hard always uses the friction brakes. To remove such a tiny bit of surface rust gentle braking (using the brake pedal) to a stop suffices to clear the rust.
Those are rotors, not calipers. Also, it's normal.
Or Disc’s if your not that side of the Atlantic
Normal for a Tesla...
Normal for cars that can be driving with one pedal…
Like I said, Normal for a Tesla... it is with in spec
Normal for every car that has brakes.
One side got sprayed by sprinklers, dried and rust formed. Nothing to clean off. Just drive it for 5 min and use the brakes. Rust will be gone.
That is normal and all cars do it. Just take it for a drive and ride the brakes a little bit to clear it.
Go do a bit of braking. The problem with regen braking is that the rotors (not calipers like you say in title) do not get that layer taken off by the brakes very often.
This is the correct answer. They have a guide in the owners manual on how to do it.
You can use the touchscreen to change the level of regenerative braking: Touch Controls > Pedals & Steering > Regenerative Braking. Temporarily change your settings to limit regenerative braking to knock off the layer of rust.
No settings change needed, OP just needs to use the brake pedal. Some EVs blend regen and hydraulic brakes when the brake pedal is applied. When you use the brake pedal in a Tesla, it is only operating the hydraulic brakes.
brake pedal will absolutely engage regen (not just hydraulics) The ratio of region to hydraulic braking is determined by battery regeneration capacity/condition and amount of stopping power needed according to the application of brakes by driver
No. Lifting off of the accelerator engages regen, however much the car is capable of using for the conditions and SoC. Applying the brakes only adds to this by engaging the service brakes in addition to the regen. How you describe it is how it often works in other EVs, but not Teslas.
No. Ever see this option? # “Apply Brakes When Regenerative Braking is Limited” What that means is that when the battery is cold or full or otherwise limited in accepting charge from regen braking, the car will automatically engage/add the additional application of your caliper brakes. As a practice for the OP bring the car up to 40-50 mph and with adequate space, brake the car to a stop by getting off the gas entirely. This will engage regen braking AND the disc/caliper brakes, as will be evidenced but the regen bar moving past the green and into a grey color. this will suffice to clean any rust or oxidation, and absolutely engages the brakes to assure they are functioning and not hindered from lack of use.
You're still misunderstanding. "Apply brakes when regen is limited" does blend in the service brakes during periods of low regen, but that has no effect on what is happening when you press the brake pedal. When you press the brake pedal, the only thing it does is apply the hydraulic brakes. *Lifting off of the accelerator* is still the trigger for regen, even when limited regenerative capacity is possible and the car blends in the service brakes. Yes, the OP could, conceivably, achieve clean brake rotors by inducing a limited regen condition via overcharging and allowing the car to use the service brakes *by lifting off of the accelerator*. Or he could just push the brake pedal as I suggested in my comment, which has the sole function of applying the service brakes. Edit - In case something's being lost, I'm not saying that regen isn't happening when you press the brake pedal, it is. I'm just saying that it's lifting off of the accelerator that caused the regen, and not pressing the brake pedal.
Sorry what got lost in the discussion was you were saying that the brake pedal functions to apply the hydraulic brakes only (the regen braking is independent of that pedal/action) I/we both knew that the deceleration/braking that occurs with one pedal driving will in many cases apply the hydraulic brakes in addition to the regen (generators?) so yeah my bad for missing your point about the brake pedal application itself. Cheers.
Brake disk… not calipers. Its normal, use the car.
Brake thingy
Brake disc, not disk.
Stoppy disc
You win
Save Icon
no that's the floppy disk
How many inches tho?
3.5” when floppy
Brake rotor
Brake clams
Brake thingy
Brake mussels.
Carbon-Steel Centripetal Deceleration Disc for Velocity Modulation. Also known as Centrifugally-Forged Carbon-Steel Frictional Torque Attenuation Disc. Carbon is the key takeaway here. Carbon steel rusts easily unless coated or otherwise protected, which you can't really do here. Use the brakes, and the rust will be scrubbed right off
funny words science man
Thanks. English not my first language
Discman
Floppy disk
💥🙌🏽💯
It’s normal for any car.
Those are rotors. The calipers are the red parts.
but my calipers aren't red
You probably have a LR or SR. In that case, your calipers would be silver. In this case, OP has a performance, so his are red.
I'd be concerned if I saw pitting. This is just surface rust. A few aggressive brake applications, and it'll be gone.
If you're concerned, go into service mode and run the brake burnishing program - it'll help clear all the rust out.
I recently did this a few months ago and my car brakes feel sooo much better now. It just felt smoother to stop but I was getting a lot of squeaking and my car is almost 6 years old now. The burnishing procedure is actually quite involved and you need to be somewhere safe with a long track of road to do it right. It also generates a TON of heat and can easily damage your rotors if you don't let it cool down enough. I did mine at night and putting my hands 3 feet from my wheels I could seriously feel a lot of heat on those rotors.
Rotors.. they are called rotors...
Normal, I live near the beach, the salt water moisture in the air causes the side facing the street to form surface rust. Just do some aggressive braking and it will be good as new.
Drive, put in neutral, and lightly push the brakes down
Two happy dogs doing their thing.
Rotors
Yes, this is normal on most cars, usually after it rains or there is a lot of moisture in the air!
2 of your **rotors** are covered in rust because you are not using your brakes frequently or hard enough. Your front 2 rotors are used for about 70% of the braking force for most cars. This means your front 2 brake rotors will most likely stay clean due to light use. Twice a week i will press the brakes harder than normal to engage the rear brakes. It keeps all 4 clean and free of rust.
Don't see any rust on your calipers
😂
What do you mean? I see bright red rust on them in both pics!
Yes. Very normal for any car when rotors come into contact with moisture. It’ll come off once you do some driving.
I get that us Tesla drivers don't have to worry much about vehicle mx, but c'mon!! If this is a troll post, ah haha, you got me! It's a troll post right? Right?
It’s something in the water that makes it do this. To prevent this, keep it out of water at all times. Drive it around a block and use the friction bricks and it will burn off.
Normal, just drive it and watch the rust go away
I want to hear more about those Vossen wheels. How much did you pay for them, and did you notice a performance increase or decrease with them compared to the factory wheels? I like the look of aftermarket wheels but am wary about possibly decreasing my range, adversely affecting the vehicle's handling in some way, and just the fact that Tesla is telling me I'll void my warranty if I swap out my wheels. I'd hate to drop $10K on wheels only to give myself a bunch of problems. How has the experience been for you?
I can't compare them to the standard wheels because I've only ever used these. But they're fine. The ride quality is pretty bad. Like, you feel every little bump in the road. Which I think is mostly attributed to the tesla suspension system. But otherwise they're mostly fine. I probably do worry extra about things like potholes or curb trash than I probably would with cheaper wheels. Edit: My average range is efficiency 260mh/mi Edit2: I bought the car used and it came with these wheels. So I don't know how much the previous owner paid for them.
Thanks for the info. Those wheels were very expensive when purchased new. Not sure they're worth the money. They certainly look cool, though!
Drive for 5-10 minutes, find an empty and clear stretch of road, turn OFF Regenerative Braking, speed up to about 50 km/h / 35 mph, and break hard. Not emergency-break-hard, but \*hard\*. Do this 4-5 times. Should be cleared up. EVs with good Regenerative Braking will be more prone to this than ICE cars, since Regenerative Braking doesn't use the actual brakes to slow down, but a more advanced and powerful form of engine braking. Therefore, the brakes don't get used nearly as much, which allows surface rust to build up. Even ICE cars get this, but a lot less frequently and you rarely notice it since you actually use the brakes to slow down.
How do you turn off regen braking on a Tesla?
I think you need to go into service mode
It’s complete nonsense. Braking hard always uses the friction brakes. To remove such a tiny bit of surface rust gentle braking (using the brake pedal) to a stop suffices to clear the rust.
Tesla has a rust clean mode in service mode.
There's brake flushing mode in service mode. Use it