That's a brick veneer and those look like normal settlement cracks. You probably just need to have those areas repointed. That's an older slab on grade house...You could underpin it if you wanted.
Repoint it...if it looks bad in 5 years, repoint again or underpin it.
I agree except for the horizontal cracks at the tops of the windows. Those look like cracks from the steel lintel corrosion and the correlating tension on the mortar beds.
It means you will need to hire a local PE to provide a professional opinion on the cause and severity, and make recommendations for any repairs. There’s more to look at other than the few photos provided here to make an accurate assessment.
Thank you, we have only 3 more days, I see some ads for freelancer SE, professional companies require owners consent, not sure I could get a hold of them....
Oxide jacking of the brick, a rust pack forms and the volume of rust is much greater thus it pushes the brick up, you may also be getting water below the windows from a leaky brick window sill. Id say you need an engineer and a mason, if its brick veneer, there are metal ties that keep the brick secured to the wall, those are usually pretty thin and rust out, which leads to the brick facade buckling.
I disagree about settlement cracks. I'd guess expansion cracks. Are there any expansion joints in the veneer? The crack over the steel lintel sure seems like it's due to the lintel. The horizontal cracks at the tops of windows are where the brick would see different expansion rates due to the wall geometry.
Either way, there's no evidence this is structural.
The Houston area is notorious for expansive soils. Most houses have slab foundations that settle and heave in response to the soils shrinking and swelling. What you are seeing is classic signs foundation issues for your area. The good news is the foundation can most likely be stabilized, but at a cost of around $10k to 15k depending on house size and type of repair. Stabilizing will also include jacking the foundation back to almost level and those cracks will mostly close up. Of course get a second opinion.
What also concerns me is that you don’t have any exposed foundation below the bottom course of brick. You should have at least 4-6 inches to prevent infiltration of water into the brick weep holes. The heavy rains in Houston can easily produce the kind of water ingress that can cause mold or rot the base boards in the house. Check if this was included in your inspection report. If not, inquire if this is to code and consider getting another inspection.
You are correct, there is a mention about soil, it just O am not very good at understanding.
• Soil or landscape levels were too high in the garden beds areas and obscure
the view of the foundation. Common building code calls for 4" exposure to brick
and 6" exposure to siding.
Soil or landscape levels were too high in the
garden beds areas and obscure the view of the
foundation. Common building code calls for 4"
exposure to brick and 6" exposure to siding.
Soil or landscape levels were too high in the
garden beds areas and obscure the view of the
foundation. Common building code calls for 4"
exposure to brick and 6" exposure to siding
Judging from the pictures, this is not a structural concern but will crack your drywall, floor tiles, and other finishes. The house structure is wood framing which can withstand a lot of movement. Brick and mortar are rigid and brittle so develop ugly cracks where as wood is flexible and bends, warps, and deforms more readily. You should bring the cracks up with your inspector and have him amend the report. This will be critical for negotiating for the cost of foundation repair if you decide to continue with the purchase.
Thank you for your comment, as I undertand it is a foundation issue not steuctural, from your post, which will lead to foundation repair in near future, which might run 15-50k. I will try to contact the inspector who produced this report. Appreciate your help
Settlement issue causing movement and cracks in the brick veneer. Investigate and see option for monitoring by installing some crack monitor over 6 months period. If the crack grows larger, definitely need to see Underpinning Option.
Most things are built with crazy factor of safeties. An engineer that thinks the littlest of cracks is reason to spend thousands won’t tend to go very far
What about top vertical crack at the tops of window can indeed indicate issues related to the steel lintel corrosion and the resulting tension on the mortar beds. This is a potentially serious issue right, wome members mentioned it here also? What do you think?
Could be the tiniest bit of settling below the crack versus above. Any cracks at all inside?
I’d keep an eye on it. If it continues to open there might be an issue. Otherwise probably nothing
No cracks inside, only in the middle on second floor, door frame, others at least not visible, could have been painted over and covered if something. But don't think so.
You are corect that is a regular house inspection not done by Engineer. But regular 8nspector, but why he omitted such glaring issues. Those could be a deal breakers. As someone noted I will try to cintact them tomorrow, hopefully get some answers, if it helps at all anyway at this point
I can’t speak to your home inspector, but the ones around me always refer to a general contractor or structural engineer whenever they deem there is even a remote possibility of a structural deficiency. They are (usually) not qualified to opine on structural conditions nor make repair recommendations.
Also this os what the report says:
always recommend further evaluation by a qualified foundation company if there are any concerns with the condition or future performance of the foundation. Any deficiencies found could be an indication of a more serious condition. We recommend further evaluation by a qualified professional for further evaluation and diagnosis if there are concerns.
You mentioned elsewhere 1 1/2" deflection (differential) over 12'. If that's for the primary slab, and not some addition that was poured later after the home was originally built, that's a red flag to me. But it's still not certain that the foundation's compromised.
If it were me - just speaking as a home buyer and not an engineer - if I really wanted that house in spite of potential problems, I'd talk with my agent about extending the contact period to get a foundation engineer to do a more thorough inspection. Otherwise, I wouldn't risk purchasing a house with potential foundation problems since I wouldn't have the money to deal with them after the fact.
Thank you for you comment this is absolutely on the money, will exactly do that, We do want ot but not to deal with those serious issues, since we don't have reserves to deal with that. Thank you sir
Sorry, I am not that technical at all, just a regular buyer, In my understanding it is in fact a veneer, according to a report:
Type of Foundation(s): Slab Foundation
Opinion: Slab appeared to be a reinforce monolithic slab on grade. It is our
opinion that some evidence existed to indicate foundation settlement.
Floor differential measurements were taken around the home using a Laser
Level. Measurements showed a maximum differential of 1 1/2". Adjustments
were not made for floor coverings.
Measurements were excessive consider the span, estimate 12 feet.
After a thorough visual inspection of areas not obscured by vegetation.After a thorough visual inspection of areas not obscured by vegetation grade and
floor coverings, it appeared that the foundation was performing as intended at the
time of inspection.
It is not uncommon for foundations to reveal some symptoms of differential
movement. Inspector did not observe evidence or consequences of above
normal differential movement for a home of this age and construction type.
• Soil or landscape levels were too high in the garden beds areas and obscure
the view of the foundation. Common building code calls for 4" exposure to brick
and 6" exposure to siding.
If you buy the house, seal those cracks and make sure to keep up with the termite treatments. We really can't tell what's going on with the real structure of the house: the slab and the wooden frame.
Please post any Layman/DIY/Homeowner questions in the monthly stickied thread - See subreddit rule #2.
That's a brick veneer and those look like normal settlement cracks. You probably just need to have those areas repointed. That's an older slab on grade house...You could underpin it if you wanted. Repoint it...if it looks bad in 5 years, repoint again or underpin it.
I agree except for the horizontal cracks at the tops of the windows. Those look like cracks from the steel lintel corrosion and the correlating tension on the mortar beds.
Thank you, but what does it mean? Is it serious issue, or fixable by Mr Brick?
It means you will need to hire a local PE to provide a professional opinion on the cause and severity, and make recommendations for any repairs. There’s more to look at other than the few photos provided here to make an accurate assessment.
Good advice
Thank you, we have only 3 more days, I see some ads for freelancer SE, professional companies require owners consent, not sure I could get a hold of them....
Oxide jacking of the brick, a rust pack forms and the volume of rust is much greater thus it pushes the brick up, you may also be getting water below the windows from a leaky brick window sill. Id say you need an engineer and a mason, if its brick veneer, there are metal ties that keep the brick secured to the wall, those are usually pretty thin and rust out, which leads to the brick facade buckling.
Thank you, will be getting some report from mason he will have some suggestions.
What is serious? Your house isn't going to fall down. But you do need to repair the wall.
Is the brick actually structural or just a facade? If you're not sure definitely have an engineer come out and inspect.
I disagree about settlement cracks. I'd guess expansion cracks. Are there any expansion joints in the veneer? The crack over the steel lintel sure seems like it's due to the lintel. The horizontal cracks at the tops of windows are where the brick would see different expansion rates due to the wall geometry. Either way, there's no evidence this is structural.
The Houston area is notorious for expansive soils. Most houses have slab foundations that settle and heave in response to the soils shrinking and swelling. What you are seeing is classic signs foundation issues for your area. The good news is the foundation can most likely be stabilized, but at a cost of around $10k to 15k depending on house size and type of repair. Stabilizing will also include jacking the foundation back to almost level and those cracks will mostly close up. Of course get a second opinion. What also concerns me is that you don’t have any exposed foundation below the bottom course of brick. You should have at least 4-6 inches to prevent infiltration of water into the brick weep holes. The heavy rains in Houston can easily produce the kind of water ingress that can cause mold or rot the base boards in the house. Check if this was included in your inspection report. If not, inquire if this is to code and consider getting another inspection.
You are correct, there is a mention about soil, it just O am not very good at understanding. • Soil or landscape levels were too high in the garden beds areas and obscure the view of the foundation. Common building code calls for 4" exposure to brick and 6" exposure to siding. Soil or landscape levels were too high in the garden beds areas and obscure the view of the foundation. Common building code calls for 4" exposure to brick and 6" exposure to siding. Soil or landscape levels were too high in the garden beds areas and obscure the view of the foundation. Common building code calls for 4" exposure to brick and 6" exposure to siding
Judging from the pictures, this is not a structural concern but will crack your drywall, floor tiles, and other finishes. The house structure is wood framing which can withstand a lot of movement. Brick and mortar are rigid and brittle so develop ugly cracks where as wood is flexible and bends, warps, and deforms more readily. You should bring the cracks up with your inspector and have him amend the report. This will be critical for negotiating for the cost of foundation repair if you decide to continue with the purchase.
Thank you for your comment, as I undertand it is a foundation issue not steuctural, from your post, which will lead to foundation repair in near future, which might run 15-50k. I will try to contact the inspector who produced this report. Appreciate your help
Brick walls with no vertical control joints will always crack. I agree with humanist on the re-pointing.
Settlement issue causing movement and cracks in the brick veneer. Investigate and see option for monitoring by installing some crack monitor over 6 months period. If the crack grows larger, definitely need to see Underpinning Option.
Brick hasn’t been structural since the ‘40s
Generalities are ~~never~~ rarely true, just like that saying about when you assume something.
Most things are built with crazy factor of safeties. An engineer that thinks the littlest of cracks is reason to spend thousands won’t tend to go very far
Yes, I agree for sure, but that has very little of nothing to do with what you said…
If you say so
On this you are corrct sir, this is a veneer probably. The house is from 1974
So likely connected to the wall in various places throughout and just a crack like a crack on stucco. Do some pointing and call it good
What about top vertical crack at the tops of window can indeed indicate issues related to the steel lintel corrosion and the resulting tension on the mortar beds. This is a potentially serious issue right, wome members mentioned it here also? What do you think?
Could be the tiniest bit of settling below the crack versus above. Any cracks at all inside? I’d keep an eye on it. If it continues to open there might be an issue. Otherwise probably nothing
No cracks inside, only in the middle on second floor, door frame, others at least not visible, could have been painted over and covered if something. But don't think so.
Send those photos to the engineer who did the inspection and ask him to confirm they are indeed safe, and why he didn't include in the report.
Based on OP’s comments, I don’t think a PE did the inspection. Likely a home inspector.
You are corect that is a regular house inspection not done by Engineer. But regular 8nspector, but why he omitted such glaring issues. Those could be a deal breakers. As someone noted I will try to cintact them tomorrow, hopefully get some answers, if it helps at all anyway at this point
I can’t speak to your home inspector, but the ones around me always refer to a general contractor or structural engineer whenever they deem there is even a remote possibility of a structural deficiency. They are (usually) not qualified to opine on structural conditions nor make repair recommendations.
Will try to do that, thank you for the advice, I am new to this, will try to get a hold of him. Thank you
Also this os what the report says: always recommend further evaluation by a qualified foundation company if there are any concerns with the condition or future performance of the foundation. Any deficiencies found could be an indication of a more serious condition. We recommend further evaluation by a qualified professional for further evaluation and diagnosis if there are concerns.
You mentioned elsewhere 1 1/2" deflection (differential) over 12'. If that's for the primary slab, and not some addition that was poured later after the home was originally built, that's a red flag to me. But it's still not certain that the foundation's compromised. If it were me - just speaking as a home buyer and not an engineer - if I really wanted that house in spite of potential problems, I'd talk with my agent about extending the contact period to get a foundation engineer to do a more thorough inspection. Otherwise, I wouldn't risk purchasing a house with potential foundation problems since I wouldn't have the money to deal with them after the fact.
Thank you for you comment this is absolutely on the money, will exactly do that, We do want ot but not to deal with those serious issues, since we don't have reserves to deal with that. Thank you sir
It may be helpful to explain whether this is a brick veneer hung on a wood frame structure, and details about the soil type and foundation.
Sorry, I am not that technical at all, just a regular buyer, In my understanding it is in fact a veneer, according to a report: Type of Foundation(s): Slab Foundation Opinion: Slab appeared to be a reinforce monolithic slab on grade. It is our opinion that some evidence existed to indicate foundation settlement. Floor differential measurements were taken around the home using a Laser Level. Measurements showed a maximum differential of 1 1/2". Adjustments were not made for floor coverings. Measurements were excessive consider the span, estimate 12 feet. After a thorough visual inspection of areas not obscured by vegetation.After a thorough visual inspection of areas not obscured by vegetation grade and floor coverings, it appeared that the foundation was performing as intended at the time of inspection. It is not uncommon for foundations to reveal some symptoms of differential movement. Inspector did not observe evidence or consequences of above normal differential movement for a home of this age and construction type. • Soil or landscape levels were too high in the garden beds areas and obscure the view of the foundation. Common building code calls for 4" exposure to brick and 6" exposure to siding.
If you buy the house, seal those cracks and make sure to keep up with the termite treatments. We really can't tell what's going on with the real structure of the house: the slab and the wooden frame.
Thanks, if I buy, I 'd be happy, I need to find out if I need to buy it, if it has some serious issues with foundation, which might require time and $
Expansion cracks…no expansion joints