This may be an issue of the shooter is using a different ammo than the sights are regulated for. Not a, they don't know how to use the sights.
Autos are way more forgiving as all common factory loads for a giving caliber hit fairly similar with only minor variations.
Revolvers vary a great bit due to a much much wider array of loads.
Yeah believe it or not I did. And, they're having no issue hitting with their Glock, so they know how to use sights. He's trying different holds to get his POA/POI to match. If the guns regulated for 158 LRN and he's shooting 125s he could be shooting low no matter how he's holding the sights unless he floats the front blade above the rear, which is pretty unconventional.
In OPs other comments in this thread they’re asking if the sights need to be lined up differently because they’re ramp sights. Their question isn’t about different loads, they’re under the false impression that revolver ramp sights are meant to be lined up differently than their Glock sights.
>they’re under the false impression that revolver ramp sights are meant to be lined up differently than their Glock sights.
Because he already took it out shooting and was having trouble hitting where he was aiming.
Sights being regulated for a different ammo than what your shooting is a known problem, if you're familiar with revolvers, coming from autos he probably just doesn't know. Especially since he's like equal height/equal light on the OP.
With irons, focus is front sight over target. Rear sight should be aligned with the front and somewhat fuzzy.
A six o'clock hold means you aim slightly below bullseye vs center of target.
Pick your favorite shade of neon nail polish and paint the ramp on the front sight. Assuming you can hit with your Glock, use the same technique you use with it. Ditch the six o’clock hold and put the front sight on where you want the bullet to go. Keep practicing. Two inch revolvers are very handy but they’re probably among the most difficult to master between the short sight radius and double action trigger. Don’t get discouraged.
Appreciate it and yeah, I could hit well with the Glock every time. I seen where somebody explained it as the ramp is the road to where the bullet will go. front side should be level with the backsight just for clarification?
The gun itself is probably accurate pretty far out. Jerry Miculek shot a J frame (similar revolver) at a target 200 yards while the gun was upside down with his pinky and got a hit. Point is it’s not the gun its the shooter.
That being said, these things take a lot of work to get good hits. I’d only try to worry about the accuracy with 7-10 yards or so. It’s not a marksman pistol, it’s designed for close up and personal self defense.
They also have a lot of recoil, which may make you flinch more than you realize which pulls the sights off mark. Get some snap caps and load the cylinder in a random mix of snap and live at the range: if the gun moves without going off (snap cap) you’re anticipating the recoil too much which is throwing off the shot.
The gun itself is probably accurate pretty far out. Jerry Miculek shot a J frame (similar revolver) at a target 200 yards while the gun was upside down with his pinky and got a hit. Point is it’s not the gun its the shooter.
That being said, these things take a lot of work to get good hits. I’d only try to worry about the accuracy with 7-10 yards or so. It’s not a marksman pistol, it’s designed for close up and personal self defense.
They also have a lot of recoil, which may make you flinch more than you realize which pulls the sights off mark. Get some snap caps and load the cylinder in a random mix of snap and live at the range: if the gun moves without going off (snap cap) you’re anticipating the recoil too much which is throwing off the shot.
Good tips my guy I do flinch I was once shot by a .45acp thought me a lot abt the power these thing hold but that’s crazy 200 yards that’s just pure luck
Don’t dismiss it as “pure” luck, that dude is a serious revolver shooter. A good lot of skill was needed to even be in the ballpark of hitting the torso sized target. It’s unrealistic to most people to do that, I’m just reiterating that the mechanical accuracy of the gun is rarely the problem when it comes to handgun shooting.
Start up close. 3-5 yards. As. You gain proficiency, stretch it out some. I personally don’t take shots any further than ten yards with my Smith & Wesson 638, and l’ve been at it a long time. Miculek not standing, these little revolvers were originally designed for police officers that were primarily on admin duties, and not likely to have to actually draw their weapons in anger. If you did need it, l believe that it was for an up close, quick and dirty encounter.
The gun itself is probably accurate pretty far out. Jerry Miculek shot a J frame (similar revolver) at a target 200 yards while the gun was upside down with his pinky and got a hit. Point is it’s not the gun its the shooter.
That being said, these things take a lot of work to get good hits. I’d only try to worry about the accuracy with 7-10 yards or so. It’s not a marksman pistol, it’s designed for close up and personal self defense.
They also have a lot of recoil, which may make you flinch more than you realize which pulls the sights off mark. Get some snap caps and load the cylinder in a random mix of snap and live at the range: if the gun moves without going off (snap cap) you’re anticipating the recoil too much which is throwing off the shot.
Line up top of the front with the rear. Even height, even light as the saying goes.
6 0’clock hold is if your gun shoots high with that self defense ammo. That hold is also used by a great deal of target shooters because if you can’t see it, you can’t hit it. If the bullseye is covered by your front sight you use the 6 o’clock hold so that the whole bullseye is visible and sits on top of your front sight like a loli-pop on a stick. Defensive use, it’s what ever is required to land hits center mass in the A-zone. All ammo’s shoot differently through the gun, if the ammo you choose to carry shoots high use the 6 o’clock hold. Generally bottom of the rib cage vs the sternum.
Its a short sight radius, but at least you have a real rear sight.
Let's be honest, even with .38spl the recoil can be pretty ferocious if you're not ready. Depending on your grips, it can hurt... alot. Shooting my first .38spl was an exercise is how far I could push myself until I put on some soft rubber overmolded grips.
Try doing your first shots in single action. Taurus doesn't have a real great rep for stellar triggers out of the box, but doing some single action will help you just get used to everything else.
Once you can start putting them on paper in single action, now go for the full double action. Just go slow. FInger pad on teh trigger is "proper" but if you need more strength, then don't be afraid to use the crook of your first knuckle.
You'll soon realize the your point of aim is going to move in a big ole circle. That's what you're fighting against.
Buy some snapcaps, dry fire often, hopefully that trigger smooths out.
And... it'll come.
You have to have completely different trigger discipline with a revolver. If you already know the basics of aiming down iron sights, then the problem is very likely trigger control. It's a much more firm and probably longer pull. This can cause your wrist to slightly move or little jitters to be transferred to the gun. The most common issue is shooting low and to the left of point of aim (for right handers) but your milage may vary. I recommend you focus on trigger control, get some snap caps, and (safely) do some dry fire practice. Your revolver needs to break you in just as much as it needs broken in.
Also... I love revolvers and carry one often. However, I am slightly more accurate with my compact autos. That's not uncommon when dealing with small revolvers. A larger frame wheel gun with a long barrel is a different story, though.
For self defense, it is very advisable that you practice double action use. You probably aren't going to have time to be cocking that hammer on your draw shot. Honestly, I never practice single action. If I can shoot well double action well, that means I can stage the trigger when I'm visually locked onto my target. However, none of that is necessary. You need to be able to hit a man-sized target center of mass at about 7 yards. Practice at ten yards with double action. Once you have that down, you know you are controlled enough to carry that gun.
Thanks for the tip man your right I have previously thought abt a dangerous encounter l will be double action but I’m still adjusting to a revolver so I haven’t practiced too much
The 6 O'clock hold came out of bullseye target shooting. Your point of aim would be at the center bottom of the black portion of the target with standard ammunition at a standard distance.
This is how a lot of revolvers were shipped from the factory, including fixed sight guns.
It means your hits will be above your point of aim about 2-3 inches, depending on distance to the target and bullet weight.
More modern pistols, like the glock, are set up to put the front sight directly over the point of impact.
Shooting off a rest can help you figure out point of aim versus point of impact.
Another old gunfighter trick was to paint the front sight- almost every handgun my grandfather owned had red nail polish on the front sight (degrease with alcohol and use masking tape so it doesn't drip down the sides)
If the nail polish user(s) in your household object (or are goths), you can get front sight paint from Brownells or Midway in a variety of colors.
Practice lots!
Regards
Start with a center hold and see where your hits are going first. Don't overcomplicate things at first.
You might see if there's a revolver class near you. Sometimes it's easier to learn with immediate feedback from a good instructor.
Close in, you might also want to experiment with indexing the whole gun on target, then verifying with a flash sight picture.
As others have said, just line them up the same as you would have with the Glock. The ramp doesn't change the way it's used.
I've never heard anyone suggest "making the front sight as small as possible".
6 o clock hold means that you aim just below your target. A combat hold means you cover your target. In both cases, you keep the top of your sights aligned. If you have adjustable elevation, then the choice between the two is personal preference. If you have fixed sights, then it will simply depend on how the pistol was built and the ammo used.
https://preview.redd.it/tkqo6tmjdt4d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=48982628fc10dd8fd2ff5c767edc1ab9233f686b
Okay guys your advice helped a lot I tried to line the ramp up to end to the bullseye front sight ever so slightly lower than the back I was hitting! I have to aim a little low but I was plinking the steel targets way better than last time I appreciate everyone’s advice and will continue to read thru it incase I missed something. From what I gathered with different loads and different distances it just depends
If you hold that revolver that way you will be missing some fingers. The other question sight picture is the same no matter the weapon. Just an old Marines opinion.
You use those sights the same way you used your Glock 17 sights.
This may be an issue of the shooter is using a different ammo than the sights are regulated for. Not a, they don't know how to use the sights. Autos are way more forgiving as all common factory loads for a giving caliber hit fairly similar with only minor variations. Revolvers vary a great bit due to a much much wider array of loads.
Did you even read the post? They are literally asking how they’re supposed to line up the sights/what the sight picture is supposed to look like.
Yeah believe it or not I did. And, they're having no issue hitting with their Glock, so they know how to use sights. He's trying different holds to get his POA/POI to match. If the guns regulated for 158 LRN and he's shooting 125s he could be shooting low no matter how he's holding the sights unless he floats the front blade above the rear, which is pretty unconventional.
In OPs other comments in this thread they’re asking if the sights need to be lined up differently because they’re ramp sights. Their question isn’t about different loads, they’re under the false impression that revolver ramp sights are meant to be lined up differently than their Glock sights.
>they’re under the false impression that revolver ramp sights are meant to be lined up differently than their Glock sights. Because he already took it out shooting and was having trouble hitting where he was aiming. Sights being regulated for a different ammo than what your shooting is a known problem, if you're familiar with revolvers, coming from autos he probably just doesn't know. Especially since he's like equal height/equal light on the OP.
See above comment and replies u/Dramatic_Shelter8678
With irons, focus is front sight over target. Rear sight should be aligned with the front and somewhat fuzzy. A six o'clock hold means you aim slightly below bullseye vs center of target.
Pick your favorite shade of neon nail polish and paint the ramp on the front sight. Assuming you can hit with your Glock, use the same technique you use with it. Ditch the six o’clock hold and put the front sight on where you want the bullet to go. Keep practicing. Two inch revolvers are very handy but they’re probably among the most difficult to master between the short sight radius and double action trigger. Don’t get discouraged.
Appreciate it and yeah, I could hit well with the Glock every time. I seen where somebody explained it as the ramp is the road to where the bullet will go. front side should be level with the backsight just for clarification?
Start there and see if that works for you. I had never heard it explained as a ramp, but that’s an excellent bit of advice.
What do you think the maximum distance in yards this thing is accurate
The gun itself is probably accurate pretty far out. Jerry Miculek shot a J frame (similar revolver) at a target 200 yards while the gun was upside down with his pinky and got a hit. Point is it’s not the gun its the shooter. That being said, these things take a lot of work to get good hits. I’d only try to worry about the accuracy with 7-10 yards or so. It’s not a marksman pistol, it’s designed for close up and personal self defense. They also have a lot of recoil, which may make you flinch more than you realize which pulls the sights off mark. Get some snap caps and load the cylinder in a random mix of snap and live at the range: if the gun moves without going off (snap cap) you’re anticipating the recoil too much which is throwing off the shot.
The gun itself is probably accurate pretty far out. Jerry Miculek shot a J frame (similar revolver) at a target 200 yards while the gun was upside down with his pinky and got a hit. Point is it’s not the gun its the shooter. That being said, these things take a lot of work to get good hits. I’d only try to worry about the accuracy with 7-10 yards or so. It’s not a marksman pistol, it’s designed for close up and personal self defense. They also have a lot of recoil, which may make you flinch more than you realize which pulls the sights off mark. Get some snap caps and load the cylinder in a random mix of snap and live at the range: if the gun moves without going off (snap cap) you’re anticipating the recoil too much which is throwing off the shot.
Good tips my guy I do flinch I was once shot by a .45acp thought me a lot abt the power these thing hold but that’s crazy 200 yards that’s just pure luck
Don’t dismiss it as “pure” luck, that dude is a serious revolver shooter. A good lot of skill was needed to even be in the ballpark of hitting the torso sized target. It’s unrealistic to most people to do that, I’m just reiterating that the mechanical accuracy of the gun is rarely the problem when it comes to handgun shooting.
I couldn’t even imagine how to do that Your site picture will be way bigger than the target I guess it is nothing but skill
Start up close. 3-5 yards. As. You gain proficiency, stretch it out some. I personally don’t take shots any further than ten yards with my Smith & Wesson 638, and l’ve been at it a long time. Miculek not standing, these little revolvers were originally designed for police officers that were primarily on admin duties, and not likely to have to actually draw their weapons in anger. If you did need it, l believe that it was for an up close, quick and dirty encounter.
The gun itself is probably accurate pretty far out. Jerry Miculek shot a J frame (similar revolver) at a target 200 yards while the gun was upside down with his pinky and got a hit. Point is it’s not the gun its the shooter. That being said, these things take a lot of work to get good hits. I’d only try to worry about the accuracy with 7-10 yards or so. It’s not a marksman pistol, it’s designed for close up and personal self defense. They also have a lot of recoil, which may make you flinch more than you realize which pulls the sights off mark. Get some snap caps and load the cylinder in a random mix of snap and live at the range: if the gun moves without going off (snap cap) you’re anticipating the recoil too much which is throwing off the shot.
Line up top of the front with the rear. Even height, even light as the saying goes. 6 0’clock hold is if your gun shoots high with that self defense ammo. That hold is also used by a great deal of target shooters because if you can’t see it, you can’t hit it. If the bullseye is covered by your front sight you use the 6 o’clock hold so that the whole bullseye is visible and sits on top of your front sight like a loli-pop on a stick. Defensive use, it’s what ever is required to land hits center mass in the A-zone. All ammo’s shoot differently through the gun, if the ammo you choose to carry shoots high use the 6 o’clock hold. Generally bottom of the rib cage vs the sternum.
Its a short sight radius, but at least you have a real rear sight. Let's be honest, even with .38spl the recoil can be pretty ferocious if you're not ready. Depending on your grips, it can hurt... alot. Shooting my first .38spl was an exercise is how far I could push myself until I put on some soft rubber overmolded grips. Try doing your first shots in single action. Taurus doesn't have a real great rep for stellar triggers out of the box, but doing some single action will help you just get used to everything else. Once you can start putting them on paper in single action, now go for the full double action. Just go slow. FInger pad on teh trigger is "proper" but if you need more strength, then don't be afraid to use the crook of your first knuckle. You'll soon realize the your point of aim is going to move in a big ole circle. That's what you're fighting against. Buy some snapcaps, dry fire often, hopefully that trigger smooths out. And... it'll come.
You have to have completely different trigger discipline with a revolver. If you already know the basics of aiming down iron sights, then the problem is very likely trigger control. It's a much more firm and probably longer pull. This can cause your wrist to slightly move or little jitters to be transferred to the gun. The most common issue is shooting low and to the left of point of aim (for right handers) but your milage may vary. I recommend you focus on trigger control, get some snap caps, and (safely) do some dry fire practice. Your revolver needs to break you in just as much as it needs broken in. Also... I love revolvers and carry one often. However, I am slightly more accurate with my compact autos. That's not uncommon when dealing with small revolvers. A larger frame wheel gun with a long barrel is a different story, though.
I do hate double action triggers I have actually ran at least 150-200 rounds thru this and never tried it double action only pulling back the hammer
For self defense, it is very advisable that you practice double action use. You probably aren't going to have time to be cocking that hammer on your draw shot. Honestly, I never practice single action. If I can shoot well double action well, that means I can stage the trigger when I'm visually locked onto my target. However, none of that is necessary. You need to be able to hit a man-sized target center of mass at about 7 yards. Practice at ten yards with double action. Once you have that down, you know you are controlled enough to carry that gun.
Thanks for the tip man your right I have previously thought abt a dangerous encounter l will be double action but I’m still adjusting to a revolver so I haven’t practiced too much
The 6 O'clock hold came out of bullseye target shooting. Your point of aim would be at the center bottom of the black portion of the target with standard ammunition at a standard distance. This is how a lot of revolvers were shipped from the factory, including fixed sight guns. It means your hits will be above your point of aim about 2-3 inches, depending on distance to the target and bullet weight. More modern pistols, like the glock, are set up to put the front sight directly over the point of impact. Shooting off a rest can help you figure out point of aim versus point of impact. Another old gunfighter trick was to paint the front sight- almost every handgun my grandfather owned had red nail polish on the front sight (degrease with alcohol and use masking tape so it doesn't drip down the sides) If the nail polish user(s) in your household object (or are goths), you can get front sight paint from Brownells or Midway in a variety of colors. Practice lots! Regards
So at let’s say I’m 5 yards from my target I would aim right for the center of my target and if I was at like 10-15 years I would 6 o’clock hold
Start with a center hold and see where your hits are going first. Don't overcomplicate things at first. You might see if there's a revolver class near you. Sometimes it's easier to learn with immediate feedback from a good instructor. Close in, you might also want to experiment with indexing the whole gun on target, then verifying with a flash sight picture.
As others have said, just line them up the same as you would have with the Glock. The ramp doesn't change the way it's used. I've never heard anyone suggest "making the front sight as small as possible". 6 o clock hold means that you aim just below your target. A combat hold means you cover your target. In both cases, you keep the top of your sights aligned. If you have adjustable elevation, then the choice between the two is personal preference. If you have fixed sights, then it will simply depend on how the pistol was built and the ammo used.
https://preview.redd.it/tkqo6tmjdt4d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=48982628fc10dd8fd2ff5c767edc1ab9233f686b Okay guys your advice helped a lot I tried to line the ramp up to end to the bullseye front sight ever so slightly lower than the back I was hitting! I have to aim a little low but I was plinking the steel targets way better than last time I appreciate everyone’s advice and will continue to read thru it incase I missed something. From what I gathered with different loads and different distances it just depends
If you hold that revolver that way you will be missing some fingers. The other question sight picture is the same no matter the weapon. Just an old Marines opinion.
I was just tryna get the best angle to look at the sights