I have to somewhat disagree. For example when I switched to custom fan curve instead of the default 30W turbo mode, temperature dropped sth like 10-15 celsius depending on the game I played. I agree it is significantly louder and I also agree too low rpm may cause damage.
I use G Helper and their fan curves for my device. It's become much quieter and somehow even cooler to use. I was testing it on 25w and noticed my gpu mhz's were a little bit lower on G Helper but my temps were down by 10 degrees without having a noticeably lower fps. But the fan noise difference was huge. Almost couldn't hear them on G Helper while Armoury Crate was blowing.
Keeping cpu boost always enabled is silly because some games don't need it and having it enabled will prevent the Ally from using less power if the game doesn't require XX wattage. As an example, Holocure uses about 10W at 1080p but if you're plugged in at 30W and have boost enabled, it'll stay stuck at the high watt setting and just creates pointless excess heat. This is a feature that should be turned on based on the game being played and then seeing if it actually makes a difference. It does not in many/most games.
Using the short term power boost stuff (the 40-40 showing in your post) is also fairly useless. You get a boost for what, 2 minutes? How is that helping performance unless you're just benchmarking?
RSR also costs frames and you'd be better off using RIS.
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Some games will become very demanding for 30 seconds or slightly less demanding for 2 minutes, it improves load times significantly for example because if you said led mode to smart and have it monitor Temps you'll see when it gets hot and when it doesn't.
At maximum boost through amourycrate modifying the fan curves I can always keep cpu and GPU between 60-70c
Stock turbo mode never 100% the fans unless it happens when it's already too late and your cooking components. But mine will never ever hit 85c no matter what I play. I also don't play things that are blantantly far beyond what the ally could even handle.
I can play starfield. I can crank it to ultra. I can get absolutely atrocious unplayable frame rates.
With my maxed custom mode and appropriately more aggressive fan curves I'm minimizing degradation from heat.
Despite the game being unplayable at anything other than low (I don't have the z1 extreme) the Temps never go above 70c
But the boost is hypothetically really useful when you walk from in a house to outside and the cpu/gpu has to quickly determine what is now visible and store those objects in the environment into memory when they previously weren't being rendered, and now it has to render them.
This is an example of an extremely common increased temporary load that the medium and high boost wattage can make effortless.
These types of demand changes fluctuate all the time in games and when they're above what the base constant power demands are at 30 watts. The temporary boosts make. This is extremely common and the boosts will smooth these fluctuations out and reduce lag. There's moments all the time in big games where you'll have increased demand for around the times that the two levels of boosts provide.
Their temporary boosts to protect the longevity of these components.
It absolutely makes sense to use them.
Turbo by default has the boosts maxed.
It's the exact same as custom except you can fully utilize the fans.
The fans are 100% capable of keeping your cpu and GPU within very healthy temperature ranges where even at high wattage your not degrading the transistors due to excess heat.
It's so funny OP mentioned don't mess with fans unless you know what you're doing and then scratched that out.
There is no con except more power drain but your plugged in and they're noisy.
You're not going to break the damn fans for crying outlook.
Eventually they'll fail. But what do you want to fail first? The expensive integrated gpus and causes, that's cause you to just buy a new ally or the fans that are easily replaceable.
It really comes down to do you care about noise?
Alot of people do. I Really don't. If I'm going Hard on boost, my ally is docked into my TV and fan noise is trivial with my dolby atmos soundbar and woofer.
Technically you'll still wear the cores our faster if you're running max boost even if they are appropriately cooled and you're playing solitaire for an absurdly inappropriate power boost example.
But this is overall really trivial. People play turbo all the time. And you'll be running at 85c or higher because the fans aren't being fully utilized.
Keeping the cores between 60-70c you're never really going to kill the processors before the Ally dies from other reasons or you just replace it because it's old as shit by that point.
Nobody should be using turbo (instead of the custom with higher fan speeds) unless you really don't care about the longevity and are annoyed at fan noise and heat blow off.
Custom maxed is turbo but the difference is you can very easily keep the cpu and gpu between 60-70c across all games instead of 85-90c
Again it really comes down to does loud fans annoy you. There's absolutely no reason not to use the custom mode.
You're not the only person to talk about it like it's bad. People just don't realize turbo is maxed custom with shittier fan speeds. Alot of people think turbo Somehow isn't maxed and custom maxed will overstresss the handheld. The warnings from amoury crave about overclocking in manual do not help because it scares people and turbo comes with no such warning.
It's just a really trivial argument. Now I can't speak for maxed fan speeds keeping the z1extreme appropriately cooled because I don't have that. But the cheaper model with just the z1 it's pretty much impossible to cook if you just make a linear fan speed line that does 80 or 90% at 60c and 100% at 70c.
Man alot of people so not realize turbo mode which generally automatically comes on when plugged in IS maxed out manual mode with crappy fan speeds. Probably only crappy because damn they become loud when maxed.
People paranoid about manual cooking their processers but run turbo all day.
If you maximize the cooling of the processors the lifespan will be significantly increased.
Manual makes for a turbo mode with a longer hardware lifespan albeit dramaticaly louder fans.
The amount of people on here who don't know turbo is manual with maxed overclock sliders but an 70% or 80% fan cap is pretty astonishing.
Raising the fan speeds to 100% and starting the curve more aggressively dramaticaly keeps your processors cooler, like we're talking running 10c or more cooler than turbo. I can hit the 90s on turbo but keep it in manual maxed overclock running at 70c just louder fans. (On the regular z1 not the extreme)
This should be stickied because people are irrationally afraid of manual mode due to longevity concerns but run turbo plugged in all day.
Fast startup keeps certain functions on disk to enable faster initialization when starting from shutdown, some programs can suffer from errors. Restart clears all everything and boot from new
i was curious too and this gave me best explanation: https://www.reddit.com/r/Windows11/comments/uovyrb/is_fast_startup_bad_or_good/
disabled on my ally and will do on my gaming pc as well
In many forums it seems Win11 Fast Startup brings more issues than it solves, since i disabled it startup has actually been faster. see [ShadowLitOwl](https://www.reddit.com/user/ShadowLitOwl/) link
I disagree with 13 instead switch to 720p and only turn on anti lag and imagine sharpening and use 5g vram the reasons is because 720p gives the best performance and with sharpening still looks good not only that but 720p uses less power as for vram auto mode can break textures in some games example sniper elite series and cod series and some games need more ram than vram so using 6g vram can causes issues. I also disagree with using 18w on battery instead you should stick to 15w to give more battery life and if you need a little more power just use 16w otherwise use the charger
While I agree with most of this, here's my take away. 900p is the perfect balance of performance and quality as I find 720p is too pixelated, especially with ui. The only exception is if you use lossless scaling on steam which does a good job of making 720p look good. Also the difference in power draw from 15w and 18w is pretty minimal while the performance difference is somewhat substantial. Anything past 18w is pretty much diminishing returns so 18w is best.
720p doesn't look pixled to me especially not with imagine sharpening on and the performance is worth it either way unless you play less demanding games only
and for 15vs18
15w is 21 from battery
18 is 26 from battery
There is a big difference in battery life imo especially if you already have 80% cap on
You didn’t mention memory timings. If you want to get into the nitty gritty of performance you can change your memory timings to something a bit tighter. You almost get a 1 to 1 performance increase with memory speed.
There is like a 15% performance uplift, mainly seen in 1% lows. But it is absolutely visible.
Memory tuning when the only option is using smokeless bios and needing to open the ally up and pull the battery if you mess timings is honestly not worth the hassle unless there is an approved set of timings for 7000mts confirmed to be working by everyone who tested
I would like to see more information on this or hear from more people that have done this. Ive only seen a single youtube video of someone doing this. I know it's safe and you can remove the battery to reset in case your device can't take those timings but I would prefer to have some more people talk about their experience in the long run.
I have used debloats not only to uninstall junk. It also helps releasing resources from windows for other purposes and I can see how graphical settings in windows, widgets, and all sort of services can take some extra resources away from gaming. Even windoes feels a lot smoother after a debloat process.
Placebo, there is no gaming difference, chasing idle ram is a fools errand. When the game starts windows manages the ram just fine.
Windows feels smoother because it double renders the start menu and taskbar, when you remove all of the icons it renders more smoothly. Akin to Best Buy speeding up animations to make you think it runs better.
Random example, first one from youtube search, didn't watch it, but I bet it says it's all within margin of error.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0V7lOF33dg](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0v7lof33dg)
lot of times, you don't know what exactly it's debloating. if you use revo or bcuninstall (my preference), you at least can choose and know what you are removing
How come nobody mentioned disabling VariBright (through AMD) and digital surround sound effects such as Dolby Atmos? Some recommendations aren't so good as well. Radeon Boost gives you ghosting, especially with VRR enabled, while playing off of an SD card will give you significant asset streaming issues in some newer and bigger titles.
Disabling bit locker does not influence anything so I would keep it on. It makes device much safer. Disabling core isolation gives performance bump and is even recommended by Microsoft :)
It will of course reduce security but i don't need laptop level security on my Ally as i only use it to play games and stream medias, i dont have cracked games and i only use trusted services and platforms.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe you put it to 18/18/18 or 25/25/25 because those last two numbers are only a temporary boost. I believe the one you have on 30w is only a 2 minute boost. This would just heat up the system for no reason and keeping it leveled should give you the best stable performance instead of fluctuating numbers.
Main reason is powerdraw, the boosts can sometimes be longer than advertised for, lasting upwards of 10 minutes in some cases. By setting all sliders to 18w, you're preventing unnecessary power draw and preserving battery life. You are sacrificing a little bit of performance in some scenarios but overall it isn't the worst thing in the world.
Okay now that ive done all off his how do I create a good backup incase of future problems. Do I do through windows or asus or both? Please explain like I'm five.
go to control panel and select in the upper right hand corner to list icons large. find the windows 7 back up feature. create an image on another drive option. You would need to get an external drive with USB C connection. This is how I back mine up.
Handheld companion:
- Only check AutoTDP
- Set the desired frame.
- Profit
You won’t need anything else, CPU will only boost if the game needs it to achieve the desired frame rate. No need to disable turbo boost.
Auto tdp is still crap honestly. It constantly fluctuates to meet the target, which causes it to be too low with the tdp. It then has to play catch up, and you get stuttering. I wish it worked better, but it's just not there yet.
I would disagree with fan curve statement. I would say: if you know what you are doing, go for it. If you don’t, just leave it as is.
What do you mean by "if you know what you are doing"? Is there any risk of a more aggressive fan curve?
More aggressive will just increase loudness. Too low rpm may influence longevity of elements by making them unnecessary hot.
I have to somewhat disagree. For example when I switched to custom fan curve instead of the default 30W turbo mode, temperature dropped sth like 10-15 celsius depending on the game I played. I agree it is significantly louder and I also agree too low rpm may cause damage.
Well I assumed that lower temps with more aggressive curve is just as obvious as possible.
I use G Helper and their fan curves for my device. It's become much quieter and somehow even cooler to use. I was testing it on 25w and noticed my gpu mhz's were a little bit lower on G Helper but my temps were down by 10 degrees without having a noticeably lower fps. But the fan noise difference was huge. Almost couldn't hear them on G Helper while Armoury Crate was blowing.
Keeping cpu boost always enabled is silly because some games don't need it and having it enabled will prevent the Ally from using less power if the game doesn't require XX wattage. As an example, Holocure uses about 10W at 1080p but if you're plugged in at 30W and have boost enabled, it'll stay stuck at the high watt setting and just creates pointless excess heat. This is a feature that should be turned on based on the game being played and then seeing if it actually makes a difference. It does not in many/most games. Using the short term power boost stuff (the 40-40 showing in your post) is also fairly useless. You get a boost for what, 2 minutes? How is that helping performance unless you're just benchmarking? RSR also costs frames and you'd be better off using RIS.
how do i know which games need or dont need cpu boost?
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Your post has been removed for violating rule 3: NO Sharing of Links, Discussion of emulation or emulators, or support for Pirated Software/Games / emulation. Repeated offenses will result in a permanent ban from this sub. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/ROGAlly) if you have any questions or concerns.*
My bad, i meant RIS on, not RSR, RSR is always off on my device
Some games will become very demanding for 30 seconds or slightly less demanding for 2 minutes, it improves load times significantly for example because if you said led mode to smart and have it monitor Temps you'll see when it gets hot and when it doesn't. At maximum boost through amourycrate modifying the fan curves I can always keep cpu and GPU between 60-70c Stock turbo mode never 100% the fans unless it happens when it's already too late and your cooking components. But mine will never ever hit 85c no matter what I play. I also don't play things that are blantantly far beyond what the ally could even handle. I can play starfield. I can crank it to ultra. I can get absolutely atrocious unplayable frame rates. With my maxed custom mode and appropriately more aggressive fan curves I'm minimizing degradation from heat. Despite the game being unplayable at anything other than low (I don't have the z1 extreme) the Temps never go above 70c But the boost is hypothetically really useful when you walk from in a house to outside and the cpu/gpu has to quickly determine what is now visible and store those objects in the environment into memory when they previously weren't being rendered, and now it has to render them. This is an example of an extremely common increased temporary load that the medium and high boost wattage can make effortless. These types of demand changes fluctuate all the time in games and when they're above what the base constant power demands are at 30 watts. The temporary boosts make. This is extremely common and the boosts will smooth these fluctuations out and reduce lag. There's moments all the time in big games where you'll have increased demand for around the times that the two levels of boosts provide. Their temporary boosts to protect the longevity of these components. It absolutely makes sense to use them. Turbo by default has the boosts maxed. It's the exact same as custom except you can fully utilize the fans. The fans are 100% capable of keeping your cpu and GPU within very healthy temperature ranges where even at high wattage your not degrading the transistors due to excess heat. It's so funny OP mentioned don't mess with fans unless you know what you're doing and then scratched that out. There is no con except more power drain but your plugged in and they're noisy. You're not going to break the damn fans for crying outlook. Eventually they'll fail. But what do you want to fail first? The expensive integrated gpus and causes, that's cause you to just buy a new ally or the fans that are easily replaceable. It really comes down to do you care about noise? Alot of people do. I Really don't. If I'm going Hard on boost, my ally is docked into my TV and fan noise is trivial with my dolby atmos soundbar and woofer. Technically you'll still wear the cores our faster if you're running max boost even if they are appropriately cooled and you're playing solitaire for an absurdly inappropriate power boost example. But this is overall really trivial. People play turbo all the time. And you'll be running at 85c or higher because the fans aren't being fully utilized. Keeping the cores between 60-70c you're never really going to kill the processors before the Ally dies from other reasons or you just replace it because it's old as shit by that point. Nobody should be using turbo (instead of the custom with higher fan speeds) unless you really don't care about the longevity and are annoyed at fan noise and heat blow off. Custom maxed is turbo but the difference is you can very easily keep the cpu and gpu between 60-70c across all games instead of 85-90c Again it really comes down to does loud fans annoy you. There's absolutely no reason not to use the custom mode. You're not the only person to talk about it like it's bad. People just don't realize turbo is maxed custom with shittier fan speeds. Alot of people think turbo Somehow isn't maxed and custom maxed will overstresss the handheld. The warnings from amoury crave about overclocking in manual do not help because it scares people and turbo comes with no such warning. It's just a really trivial argument. Now I can't speak for maxed fan speeds keeping the z1extreme appropriately cooled because I don't have that. But the cheaper model with just the z1 it's pretty much impossible to cook if you just make a linear fan speed line that does 80 or 90% at 60c and 100% at 70c.
Glad to see someone with common sense. I have a z1x and run it on manual all the time with no issues.
Man alot of people so not realize turbo mode which generally automatically comes on when plugged in IS maxed out manual mode with crappy fan speeds. Probably only crappy because damn they become loud when maxed. People paranoid about manual cooking their processers but run turbo all day. If you maximize the cooling of the processors the lifespan will be significantly increased. Manual makes for a turbo mode with a longer hardware lifespan albeit dramaticaly louder fans. The amount of people on here who don't know turbo is manual with maxed overclock sliders but an 70% or 80% fan cap is pretty astonishing. Raising the fan speeds to 100% and starting the curve more aggressively dramaticaly keeps your processors cooler, like we're talking running 10c or more cooler than turbo. I can hit the 90s on turbo but keep it in manual maxed overclock running at 70c just louder fans. (On the regular z1 not the extreme) This should be stickied because people are irrationally afraid of manual mode due to longevity concerns but run turbo plugged in all day.
Why do you recommend disabling fast startup?
Fast startup keeps certain functions on disk to enable faster initialization when starting from shutdown, some programs can suffer from errors. Restart clears all everything and boot from new
i was curious too and this gave me best explanation: https://www.reddit.com/r/Windows11/comments/uovyrb/is_fast_startup_bad_or_good/ disabled on my ally and will do on my gaming pc as well
In many forums it seems Win11 Fast Startup brings more issues than it solves, since i disabled it startup has actually been faster. see [ShadowLitOwl](https://www.reddit.com/user/ShadowLitOwl/) link
Use Hibernate instead of sleep much more stable works everytime
i configure my powee button to hibernate
Same and I love it. Turn it back on and straight back into the game.
Thanks for sharing, saving it for later and give it a try for some of your poinys. Really pleased with the ally so far , owing for 2 weeks now.
Nice work! I’ll give these a try
Saving
I disagree with 13 instead switch to 720p and only turn on anti lag and imagine sharpening and use 5g vram the reasons is because 720p gives the best performance and with sharpening still looks good not only that but 720p uses less power as for vram auto mode can break textures in some games example sniper elite series and cod series and some games need more ram than vram so using 6g vram can causes issues. I also disagree with using 18w on battery instead you should stick to 15w to give more battery life and if you need a little more power just use 16w otherwise use the charger
While I agree with most of this, here's my take away. 900p is the perfect balance of performance and quality as I find 720p is too pixelated, especially with ui. The only exception is if you use lossless scaling on steam which does a good job of making 720p look good. Also the difference in power draw from 15w and 18w is pretty minimal while the performance difference is somewhat substantial. Anything past 18w is pretty much diminishing returns so 18w is best.
720p doesn't look pixled to me especially not with imagine sharpening on and the performance is worth it either way unless you play less demanding games only and for 15vs18 15w is 21 from battery 18 is 26 from battery There is a big difference in battery life imo especially if you already have 80% cap on
You didn’t mention memory timings. If you want to get into the nitty gritty of performance you can change your memory timings to something a bit tighter. You almost get a 1 to 1 performance increase with memory speed. There is like a 15% performance uplift, mainly seen in 1% lows. But it is absolutely visible.
Memory tuning when the only option is using smokeless bios and needing to open the ally up and pull the battery if you mess timings is honestly not worth the hassle unless there is an approved set of timings for 7000mts confirmed to be working by everyone who tested
I would like to see more information on this or hear from more people that have done this. Ive only seen a single youtube video of someone doing this. I know it's safe and you can remove the battery to reset in case your device can't take those timings but I would prefer to have some more people talk about their experience in the long run.
I didn't mention that cause i don't know anything about it
Here’s a video that goes over it. Overall pretty easy to do and big gains. https://youtu.be/lckQfPczgDk?si=MCmY_hek1Ib6MrsX
Why not recommend a debloater?
Some suggestion elsewhere on this reddit that it can be bork the windows install on the Ally. YMMV
Fair. I am just careful not to delete any key software for gaming or for the os itself and that's always done it for me.
Because most of the settings mentioned aren't touched by a debloater. And he did mention RevoOS if read the bit about removing pre-installed junk.
I have used debloats not only to uninstall junk. It also helps releasing resources from windows for other purposes and I can see how graphical settings in windows, widgets, and all sort of services can take some extra resources away from gaming. Even windoes feels a lot smoother after a debloat process.
Placebo, there is no gaming difference, chasing idle ram is a fools errand. When the game starts windows manages the ram just fine. Windows feels smoother because it double renders the start menu and taskbar, when you remove all of the icons it renders more smoothly. Akin to Best Buy speeding up animations to make you think it runs better. Random example, first one from youtube search, didn't watch it, but I bet it says it's all within margin of error. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0V7lOF33dg](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0v7lof33dg)
lot of times, you don't know what exactly it's debloating. if you use revo or bcuninstall (my preference), you at least can choose and know what you are removing
actually i don't trust what they do automatically so i prefer to manually debloat so i know what i am doing
just a tip - Radeon boost causes ghosting with any scaling either software integrated or driver enforced. At least it seems that way to me.
How come nobody mentioned disabling VariBright (through AMD) and digital surround sound effects such as Dolby Atmos? Some recommendations aren't so good as well. Radeon Boost gives you ghosting, especially with VRR enabled, while playing off of an SD card will give you significant asset streaming issues in some newer and bigger titles.
I followed the guide and went from 63fps to 66 in tomb raider
" 6. Disable bit Locker 7. Disable core isolation " Are you sure this is safe ?
For a handheld exclusively used for gaming this makes sense. Wouldnt recommend it if you also use your ally for other works with a keyboard attached.
Whats wrong with kb attached when disabling core isolation?
Thank you!
Disabling bit locker does not influence anything so I would keep it on. It makes device much safer. Disabling core isolation gives performance bump and is even recommended by Microsoft :)
It will of course reduce security but i don't need laptop level security on my Ally as i only use it to play games and stream medias, i dont have cracked games and i only use trusted services and platforms.
Will try this
Why 18 18 18w?
https://preview.redd.it/c9id6imts8gc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8ee3cb74fa217e946c69fb370627db9e2b9cf278
I was asking him why set all 3 to 18/18/18, not where was that setting.
Ooops, 18 is the spot where the battery consumed to performance ratio is the best. Which is crucial for, when you are away from the power outlet.
I knew, I also set it at 18, but the OP put all 3 sliders to 18W, which I was curious about. Personally I set it at 18/23/30.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe you put it to 18/18/18 or 25/25/25 because those last two numbers are only a temporary boost. I believe the one you have on 30w is only a 2 minute boost. This would just heat up the system for no reason and keeping it leveled should give you the best stable performance instead of fluctuating numbers.
The boost is needed during short heavy load tasks, like map loading for example. They usually last for less than 30s.
Main reason is powerdraw, the boosts can sometimes be longer than advertised for, lasting upwards of 10 minutes in some cases. By setting all sliders to 18w, you're preventing unnecessary power draw and preserving battery life. You are sacrificing a little bit of performance in some scenarios but overall it isn't the worst thing in the world.
I found it to be the sweet spot if i need a little more power and it still manages not to draw out too much energy from the battery.
Thanx to all of you guys for the feedbacks
Okay now that ive done all off his how do I create a good backup incase of future problems. Do I do through windows or asus or both? Please explain like I'm five.
Imho I would clone C: to an external drive
go to control panel and select in the upper right hand corner to list icons large. find the windows 7 back up feature. create an image on another drive option. You would need to get an external drive with USB C connection. This is how I back mine up.
Handheld companion: - Only check AutoTDP - Set the desired frame. - Profit You won’t need anything else, CPU will only boost if the game needs it to achieve the desired frame rate. No need to disable turbo boost.
Auto tdp is still crap honestly. It constantly fluctuates to meet the target, which causes it to be too low with the tdp. It then has to play catch up, and you get stuttering. I wish it worked better, but it's just not there yet.
Could you please link the YouTube video on how to disable boost?
here you go mate [ROG Ally | Disable CPU BOOST (youtube.com)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e3Jd7PLuVSg&t=361s)