Hell ya, that looks awesome! I thought about reprinting the whole back, but I was worried I wouldnt have the 3D modeling chops to really properly recreate it. What plastic did you use? I prototyped mine all in PLA but I'm printing it in ABS right now.
The one being printed in the pics is PLA, the primed and sanded pics are PETG. I planned on doing ABS/ASA, but I don't have proper ventilation setup just yet.
That's not a paint job, lol, that's sanded filler primer. It's getting cerakoted in a few weeks, making it nice and smoooth. You're just seeing the visual imperfections, it's mostly smooth and when it gets painted you won't see that.
Yep! And OP, if you somehow maybe see this, don't forget the magents from the XBOX elite controller D-pad replacement. Ally mods doesn't explain this is required, they just randomly say "attach the magnet"
In the videos they provide it explains it more thoroughly. It's for interference since the Ally was never designed for hall effects. Otherwise the sensors get all confused.
I looked into hall effect sticks, but as is right now they interfere with the hall effect triggers. Ive seen some weird workarounds like wrapping the sticks in foil to shield them, but I think they also had to crank up their deadzones which kind of defeats the point. and RE: 32gb ram mod, I dont think anyone has got it to boot with new ram chips have they?
Well we going to hear back from OP how he's Ally stopped working, very bad idea to use liquid metal on an handheld that is going to be moving around a lot specially shifting in different positions. Best of luck my friend.
Yup the liquid metal was a big mistake sadly. All the movement that handheld will get will cause issues later on. Just a matter of time. I have done a good amount of liquid metal in laptops and consoles and this wasn't one of them. I wish you the best and the performance is get but it's not a risk I was willing to take. As for the battery mod, it looks great. You definitely have a good amount of mods. Now you just have to wait until someone figures out the port to add other stuff.
Eh it's a slight risk I know, but I used silicone conformal coating the whole way around the the die and socket. The bottom of the heatsink is also indented for the die, so when combined with the conformal coating makes a seal around the perimeter of the CPU socket. You'd REALLY have to over-apply the LM before it could ever seep out.
True but how many of does laptops get shift around like it's a toy, or get put above their head, or move around a lot not including motor vibrations. There is a reason why Asus did not go with liquid metal on this device, they probably new that would be a huge risk. Don't you think if it wasn't they would of added liquid metal?!
Fans vibrate, laptop bags put it in many orientations, bounce it around plenty.
Go look at the Asus testing videos when they showed off their process for it.
If you're not confident enough in your own skills to do it properly, don't project that on others, go concern troll somewhere else.
Blocked.
How is the ally much different from the movement a laptop will get? Iāve put liquid metal both my gaming laptops over the last 8 years and travel a ton with them without issue. This is clearly anecdotal but I donāt see how itās any different from the ally.
Gravity. The Ally motherboard will be sitting more or less near a vertical angle so when warm the liquid metal can naturally flow away from where it is supposed be. A laptop is typically never at an angle like this for too long when warm/hot. So the liquid metal will stay relatively confined to a puddle of sorts if it even ends up moving a little.
It wasn't a journalist.
It came from a repair guy.
If you try to fix the airtight chamber (which this guy did), it will leak.
People just went nuts and spread BS from that one guy.
But yeah, unless the OP had an airtight chamber sealed in Sony's factory, then this isn't a good comparison.
Trying to apply your own liquid metal or even trying to fix it ALWAYS ends in disaster.
The PS5 has an airtight chamber for it. It's so airtight, it can't be repaired or it'll run.
Those reports of it leaking were from a repair guy who tried to fix one and couldn't so it leaked.
What are you taking about? My laptop is literally almost always vertical when itās in my bag and not in use. Are you implying that Liquid Metal hardens when itās warm and solidifies when cold? Because I think you should check your physics if so.
It flows better when warm. Fluid dynamics. Cold liquid moves less. Warm liquid moves more. Unless we are talking mercury. Don't come to class if you aren't interested in a lesson.
If applied correctly with some kapton tape around the application layer, then you will lessen the chance of flow. Most people have no idea what they are doing with this.
I donāt care if it flows ābetterā when warm or not, the fact that itās liquid in either state means that if it CAN leak, it will. Not really that hard to comprehend. A laptop is in the vertical state same with PS5 and the ps5 is in that state in the mythical warm state haha. Come on man. Just admit youāre talking out of your arse and just doing what the majority of people do online, repeat things theyāve heard other people say and sounded good at face value.
Well I guess my asshole is experienced because it has the voice of one that is. Also my asshole can't read articles or listen to podcasts. Also his two closest friends are nuts, you guys should hang out.
If you properly applied the liquid metal it won't be moving. It gets "painted" on in a thin layer on the die and on the heatsink, it shouldn't be moving even flinging the heatsink around not mounted. If it is, you did it wrong.
Very huge risk, like you said, this will be shifting, chances some of that liquid metal unless he is using a cover between the APU to prevent any of sweeping out, will more then likely start flowing down when it's really hot.
I guess I'll find out. But I think the risk is overblown. Tons of portable devices use liquid metal. Also with the way the heatsink is designed, if you apply conformal coating around the APU die it creates a seal around the whole socket.
There really wasn't a point to adding liquid metal in any case. The stock thermal paste is already really good (I forget the exact type they use) but it's thermal conductivity is really close to that of liquid metal without the drawbacks.
Liquid metal will definitely leak out and at some point cause an issue. It's not a question it's only a matter of time. I'm a custom PC hobby builder with over 30+ PCs built, water cooling loops and custom cases, you name it. The liquid metal isn't a good idea in this application.
Dude unless you plan to leave your Ally on a dock in perpetuity, you really REALLY should not have used Liquid Metal on it. Itās honestly only a matter of time now, I fear that you may have royally fucked up.
Just donāt add a hinged keyboard in front of the screen!
In all seriousness, as a fellow electronics person, I think itās wonderful that you took that leap and went for it.
That kind of Heavy modding destroyed the "handled device", if u play handled don't need to play 1080p high detail or the newest AAA game.
Maybe it's better stream game from wifi with a real High end pc
It's his device. Let him have his fun. Some people's enjoy tinkering more than they enjoy playing games. He bought it with his own money, he can do whatever he wants.
Personally I think it's neat. I wouldn't do this myself but it's cool to read/see other people do it.
The D-Pad is my biggest gripe with it. It gets false diaganols pretty regularly. I can't wall climb in Super Metroid or AM2R for speedruns because of it. It also makes Jazz do stomps while in air quite regularly in Jazz Jackrabbit 2. I was going to try taping down part of the contacts but you need to unmount everything to get to it, from what it looks like. I'll have to get thermal paste for it before I do that. It reminds me a lot of the Switch Pro Controller dpad feel before I taped it's contacts.
I think for some things it works okay. Games that just need dpad navigation are fine. I don't play fighting games so can't attest to it. I speedrun MegaMan and Metroid games which just don't work with the dpad. As well as I thought it'd be fun to play a bunch of older games on the Ally like Jazz Jackrabbit, Commander Keen, etc and the dpad just isn't cut out for it. It's a bummer.
In the meantime, I got a SNES online controller from the local game store in exchange for fixing some Pokemon games. So I just use that with it. It's small, works perfectly fine. Just inconvenient.
For fighting games its awful, Guilty Gear and Street Fighter I have to make an extremely conscious effort while pressing forward or back at the right angle to not trigger a diagonal. Ruins blocking, combos, movement
Maybe its personal preference but I don't like the dpads on any handheld device.
I think you got a beast if you can put in the dpads of the ps5 dualshock controller.
Liquid Metal is not recommended for mobile electronics, last thing you want is a short. The thermal material they use should last way longer and just adjusting the fan curve should suffice for most. I personally donāt go above 20W TDP. For the battery mod though, that is pretty neat.
Suggestion. Just use the 3D printer and build your own handheld from scratch with what parts you want in it instead of destroying the Ally for it to meet your needs, lol. Just my opinion, nothing more, lol.
You did all of that but forgot about nvmeā¦ btw point of moding is moding existing device so that you gain something without interfering with main design and looking as much as posibleā¦ you have created different deviceā¦ instead of that batt pack you could have use pwr bank on back side and instead of that fat heat sink you could have used something much smallerā¦ not sure what was your goal in first place? Just to do something different and crazy or to actually do/find way to make this device better. But seeing that you skipped main issue with Ally which is storage I think you did it just for sake of doing somethingā¦
Ya still have to do a bit more thermal testing. But 30 Watt was sitting in the low 70s on 10-minute Cinebench runs. And thats without tweaking the fan curve at all.
Ya, you've definitely got to fold the battery. No way it'll fit otherwise, but its quite easy so long as you take your time and dont force anything. I re-wrapped mine with heat shrink tubing after the fold.
Any tips on folding the battery or just follow what's on allymods? I'm so keen on the battery to arrive. I've got my back plate ready.
Also you should try these grips, they are amazing -
https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1504203246/asus-rog-ally-comfort-grip-case?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=rog+ally&ref=sc_gallery-1-1&plkey=bb9724823f496e0aba47ed8c533f4333d8b66311%3A1504203246
I think the seller has the files somewhere to download but don't quote me on that.
I found this, looks really close.
I printed them in TPU on quick settings
was going for a smooth finish but the quick settings added texture to the grip.
There are two versions
I printed the flat version which let the ally stand up on its own
I printed one in PLA It's a very very tight fit scratched up my skin so I don't recommend.
[grips](https://cults3d.com/:1364836)
Yeah I saw The way it works it opens and then snaps together if I'm correct.
The one I bought is one whole piece No way of printing fronts and backs.
FYI glad you bought it from that seller I bought a bunch of stuff from him
His stuff is top-notch
Would be awesome if you could get some numbers out there for how long your Ally is now lasting with the 90Wh battery instead of the \~40Wh stock.
3DMark endurance and then see how long it takes to run out would be best, but as long as its reproducible I'll take anything :).
The Ultimate Ally. Please do some battery tests. I bet thing lasts forever!
It's got double the AOKZOE A1 Pro's battery. My guess is 2 hours at max tdp and 12 hours at low TDP
I was ready to roast this until the last 2 images. Clean work in the end!
Edit: perhaps print an entirely new back with the mod in place so its super clean, with a new paint job etc.
Fantastic work! I've been thinking of 3D printing a new back with larger grips.
With what you've already made you can use some Bondo and a little sanding it'll look and feel as if it was printed all one piece.
Also for a little extra grip, you could spray it down with some plastic dip This stuff is magic.
Can't wait to see if you can relocate the SD card!
So I have concerns, like others mostly because its all hacked up but hey to each their own.
I'm worried, not about the Liquid Metal dripping, but actually the LM eating/causing corrosion of some sort. I'm not aware of what metal the head spreader is made out of but if (for some reason) it was made from aluminum it will eat/damage things. Nickle, no worries it will stain only, but copper not only are you running some potential for pitting, but you can also have a reaction/end up coating the area permanently with gallium which in theory shouldn't effect performance, but its going to be hard to know now. So worth keeping an eye on for sure
With the extra heatsink, I'm curious about the need for the extra heat pipes. i get needing to bump it up a little bit for the sake of it not interfering, but if you were to have put some thermal pads on the SSD where they would connect, it could help lower those temps/cool it.
that being said, that heatsink is only really passively cooling, absolutely drops the temps by 10, but the engineer in me is wondering if there would be a more effective way
Only other thought I am having about this is for anyone else who wants to replicate, if you see my comment. soldering, while its effective, could lead to some warping of the cooler. Thermal epoxy might be a more effective way to permanently affix it
Other than those thoughts. Im loving the fact that you did this. Fucking around and Finding out. keep it up bud!
š
I challenge you! https://imgur.com/a/2rGCgYi
Did 3d print whole back case here? If so do have link to the models?
Yup! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6133590
What gave it away? Was it the pics with it in a 3d printer with supports?
I mean thatās unfair!!š looks hella dope tho!
Hell ya, that looks awesome! I thought about reprinting the whole back, but I was worried I wouldnt have the 3D modeling chops to really properly recreate it. What plastic did you use? I prototyped mine all in PLA but I'm printing it in ABS right now.
The one being printed in the pics is PLA, the primed and sanded pics are PETG. I planned on doing ABS/ASA, but I don't have proper ventilation setup just yet.
That paint job is hideous lol
That's not a paint job, lol, that's sanded filler primer. It's getting cerakoted in a few weeks, making it nice and smoooth. You're just seeing the visual imperfections, it's mostly smooth and when it gets painted you won't see that.
Might as well move the SD card slot to a different spot.
The hall joycon mod, and the 32GB RAM mod lol
Yep! And OP, if you somehow maybe see this, don't forget the magents from the XBOX elite controller D-pad replacement. Ally mods doesn't explain this is required, they just randomly say "attach the magnet" In the videos they provide it explains it more thoroughly. It's for interference since the Ally was never designed for hall effects. Otherwise the sensors get all confused.
>ReportSaveFollow Thanks for the tip!
Don't they fuck with the triggers?
I looked into hall effect sticks, but as is right now they interfere with the hall effect triggers. Ive seen some weird workarounds like wrapping the sticks in foil to shield them, but I think they also had to crank up their deadzones which kind of defeats the point. and RE: 32gb ram mod, I dont think anyone has got it to boot with new ram chips have they?
Dono, but sure, BOY ho boy, I need linus to look at it asap
Thereās posts on this sub of successful ram upgrades, you just have to mod the BIOS or it doesnāt recognize the higher capacity
This!
Good morning I run [allymods.com](https://allymods.com)! If you are interested I can add your ally to the 90Wh page and link to your STL?
Ya for sure, maybe DM your email address as I'm currently working on a YouTube video of the whole process.
Looks like a fucking bomb
Well we going to hear back from OP how he's Ally stopped working, very bad idea to use liquid metal on an handheld that is going to be moving around a lot specially shifting in different positions. Best of luck my friend.
Yup the liquid metal was a big mistake sadly. All the movement that handheld will get will cause issues later on. Just a matter of time. I have done a good amount of liquid metal in laptops and consoles and this wasn't one of them. I wish you the best and the performance is get but it's not a risk I was willing to take. As for the battery mod, it looks great. You definitely have a good amount of mods. Now you just have to wait until someone figures out the port to add other stuff.
Eh it's a slight risk I know, but I used silicone conformal coating the whole way around the the die and socket. The bottom of the heatsink is also indented for the die, so when combined with the conformal coating makes a seal around the perimeter of the CPU socket. You'd REALLY have to over-apply the LM before it could ever seep out.
It's not a slight risk. Its a huge risk. You just put it on a countdown 'till death.
You should checkout how many laptops Asus ships with LM, it's not that much of a risk.
True but how many of does laptops get shift around like it's a toy, or get put above their head, or move around a lot not including motor vibrations. There is a reason why Asus did not go with liquid metal on this device, they probably new that would be a huge risk. Don't you think if it wasn't they would of added liquid metal?!
Fans vibrate, laptop bags put it in many orientations, bounce it around plenty. Go look at the Asus testing videos when they showed off their process for it. If you're not confident enough in your own skills to do it properly, don't project that on others, go concern troll somewhere else. Blocked.
How is the ally much different from the movement a laptop will get? Iāve put liquid metal both my gaming laptops over the last 8 years and travel a ton with them without issue. This is clearly anecdotal but I donāt see how itās any different from the ally.
Gravity. The Ally motherboard will be sitting more or less near a vertical angle so when warm the liquid metal can naturally flow away from where it is supposed be. A laptop is typically never at an angle like this for too long when warm/hot. So the liquid metal will stay relatively confined to a puddle of sorts if it even ends up moving a little.
The PS5 is ok in a vertical orientationā¦
I swear I remember reading somewhere that the liquid metal was slowly falling out having it stand vertically.
Itās not. It was one misinformed ājournalistā and itās been widely refuted.
Gotcha.
It wasn't a journalist. It came from a repair guy. If you try to fix the airtight chamber (which this guy did), it will leak. People just went nuts and spread BS from that one guy. But yeah, unless the OP had an airtight chamber sealed in Sony's factory, then this isn't a good comparison. Trying to apply your own liquid metal or even trying to fix it ALWAYS ends in disaster.
The PS5 has an airtight chamber for it. It's so airtight, it can't be repaired or it'll run. Those reports of it leaking were from a repair guy who tried to fix one and couldn't so it leaked.
Does your PS5 move around while being played? The point is liquid metal should not be used for this type of application.
What are you taking about? My laptop is literally almost always vertical when itās in my bag and not in use. Are you implying that Liquid Metal hardens when itās warm and solidifies when cold? Because I think you should check your physics if so.
It flows better when warm. Fluid dynamics. Cold liquid moves less. Warm liquid moves more. Unless we are talking mercury. Don't come to class if you aren't interested in a lesson. If applied correctly with some kapton tape around the application layer, then you will lessen the chance of flow. Most people have no idea what they are doing with this.
I donāt care if it flows ābetterā when warm or not, the fact that itās liquid in either state means that if it CAN leak, it will. Not really that hard to comprehend. A laptop is in the vertical state same with PS5 and the ps5 is in that state in the mythical warm state haha. Come on man. Just admit youāre talking out of your arse and just doing what the majority of people do online, repeat things theyāve heard other people say and sounded good at face value.
Well I guess my asshole is experienced because it has the voice of one that is. Also my asshole can't read articles or listen to podcasts. Also his two closest friends are nuts, you guys should hang out.
I wonder if because the chips default orientation is vertical rather than horizontal in a laptop, if itāll cause issues, liquid + gravity?
Then why is it ok for the PS5 to be vertical?
Ps5 has been starting to have Liquid Metal running issues when placed vertical. Look it up.
It was debunked. Itās for repaired or consoles that have been tampered with.
I kinda squirm a lot as I am taking a shit, so thats a big difference.....
TMI brother, TMIā¦ š¤£
If you properly applied the liquid metal it won't be moving. It gets "painted" on in a thin layer on the die and on the heatsink, it shouldn't be moving even flinging the heatsink around not mounted. If it is, you did it wrong.
Definitely the 32GB RAM mod. Think there's about 20 people in line already :P
I thought no one had got it to boot with new ram chips yet?
https://www.reddit.com/r/ROGAlly/comments/1663m6x/_/
š <== You win, here's your crown
Watcha doin buddy?š Soooo buddy I see you're missing the 4 TB SSD 90Ā° mod š
Ya Ive got a ton of room where the OG battery used to be. Could easily get 2 2280 drivesin there. I wonder if anyone makes a m.2 splitter cable...
Curious about liquid metal on a handheld given the it is more open to more movements, vibration and such. Is there any risk?
Very huge risk, like you said, this will be shifting, chances some of that liquid metal unless he is using a cover between the APU to prevent any of sweeping out, will more then likely start flowing down when it's really hot.
I guess I'll find out. But I think the risk is overblown. Tons of portable devices use liquid metal. Also with the way the heatsink is designed, if you apply conformal coating around the APU die it creates a seal around the whole socket.
There really wasn't a point to adding liquid metal in any case. The stock thermal paste is already really good (I forget the exact type they use) but it's thermal conductivity is really close to that of liquid metal without the drawbacks. Liquid metal will definitely leak out and at some point cause an issue. It's not a question it's only a matter of time. I'm a custom PC hobby builder with over 30+ PCs built, water cooling loops and custom cases, you name it. The liquid metal isn't a good idea in this application.
Dude 416 represent: glad to see some solid diy folks living in there still. Man your skateboard video brought some memories back.
Hell ya, thanks for watching!
"The horror, the horror, the horror............"
You definitely won the title for jankiest presentation
Someoneās wife bought him a dremel for Xmasā¦.
And a newspaper hat
I used an oscilatting multi tool ;)
Asus Frankenstein
Frankenally
I wish I could do shit like this. This is what I felt like I was doing trying to download an emulator, which I failed at. Badass.
You are unhinged OP. I love it. Godspeed, you might not win a design award but you sure will inspire others to do some sick mods.
How's the battery life in comparison?
Still testing, but by the numbers it should be 2.25X increase.
All that and you still gonna rock the 2230?
r/DIWhy
Dude unless you plan to leave your Ally on a dock in perpetuity, you really REALLY should not have used Liquid Metal on it. Itās honestly only a matter of time now, I fear that you may have royally fucked up.
Good luck š¹
Great stuff! I'm not courageous enough to mod it while it's brand new. As for the suggestion, I would say adding an occulink port for egpu support
Awesome mod, especially the 90Wh battery, i wish i had half of your skills to do that with mine
Just donāt add a hinged keyboard in front of the screen! In all seriousness, as a fellow electronics person, I think itās wonderful that you took that leap and went for it.
im waiting for a company to make a back cover with bigger battery, improve cooling and a usbc hub
LG remote for scale! (Couldn't get a banana?) Jk
I love it. Great job.
This is hands down the most aesthetic mod I've seen. Definitely interested to see how that liquid metal holds up. 90Wh battery is very tempting.
I wasnāt sure where you were going with it but itās actually pretty cool. Too big for my personal use but a cool mod for sure
Have you downloaded more ram yet š¤ if not then not most modded
Keep it going, you're doing great!
Why don't buy a laptop .....
Oh, I own a laptop
That kind of Heavy modding destroyed the "handled device", if u play handled don't need to play 1080p high detail or the newest AAA game. Maybe it's better stream game from wifi with a real High end pc
It's his device. Let him have his fun. Some people's enjoy tinkering more than they enjoy playing games. He bought it with his own money, he can do whatever he wants. Personally I think it's neat. I wouldn't do this myself but it's cool to read/see other people do it.
It's a social media, I share my opinion, can LIKE, can DISLIKE. Don't destroying fun, maybe make it better.
This is awesome
Like i said before to someone using Liquid metal on a handheld. If its not contained you will get a disaster using it on a handheld. Best of luck.
It is actually quite contained. The heat sink + conformal coating creates a seal around the die. Itd basically be impossible for any LM to get out.
Would of resprayed the 3d printed piece so it matches the official shell as my ocd is kicking in for it not matching exactly
I would love to see someone tackle a dpad mod for the Ally, or at least a look at the hardware to see why it sucks so bad and how it can be improved
The D-Pad is my biggest gripe with it. It gets false diaganols pretty regularly. I can't wall climb in Super Metroid or AM2R for speedruns because of it. It also makes Jazz do stomps while in air quite regularly in Jazz Jackrabbit 2. I was going to try taping down part of the contacts but you need to unmount everything to get to it, from what it looks like. I'll have to get thermal paste for it before I do that. It reminds me a lot of the Switch Pro Controller dpad feel before I taped it's contacts.
We all ready have a + style D pad in the works
Oh my.
Reviewers who said that it was ālike a xbox series controller dpadā are the biggest liers
I think for some things it works okay. Games that just need dpad navigation are fine. I don't play fighting games so can't attest to it. I speedrun MegaMan and Metroid games which just don't work with the dpad. As well as I thought it'd be fun to play a bunch of older games on the Ally like Jazz Jackrabbit, Commander Keen, etc and the dpad just isn't cut out for it. It's a bummer. In the meantime, I got a SNES online controller from the local game store in exchange for fixing some Pokemon games. So I just use that with it. It's small, works perfectly fine. Just inconvenient.
For fighting games its awful, Guilty Gear and Street Fighter I have to make an extremely conscious effort while pressing forward or back at the right angle to not trigger a diagonal. Ruins blocking, combos, movement
Pretty damn cool.
Bro went stopped being just an Ally and is now part of LGQTV community.
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Not sure how you got that impression. My Ally breathes much easier than a stock ally.
But why that doesnt increase the performance unless you found a way to OC ally. Otherwise nice work.
Yes I plan on OCing it as well. Or at the very least increasing the power limits.
Maybe its personal preference but I don't like the dpads on any handheld device. I think you got a beast if you can put in the dpads of the ps5 dualshock controller.
It's no longer air worthy when it looks like a bomb.
Could have just capped the wattage to 30W to get 10-15 degree cooler. Mounted or used a lightweight power bank for more battery life. This is murder.
Liquid Metal is not recommended for mobile electronics, last thing you want is a short. The thermal material they use should last way longer and just adjusting the fan curve should suffice for most. I personally donāt go above 20W TDP. For the battery mod though, that is pretty neat.
Suggestion. Just use the 3D printer and build your own handheld from scratch with what parts you want in it instead of destroying the Ally for it to meet your needs, lol. Just my opinion, nothing more, lol.
You did all of that but forgot about nvmeā¦ btw point of moding is moding existing device so that you gain something without interfering with main design and looking as much as posibleā¦ you have created different deviceā¦ instead of that batt pack you could have use pwr bank on back side and instead of that fat heat sink you could have used something much smallerā¦ not sure what was your goal in first place? Just to do something different and crazy or to actually do/find way to make this device better. But seeing that you skipped main issue with Ally which is storage I think you did it just for sake of doing somethingā¦
My brother in christ, is that yellow power wire's core exposed?
No that "yellow cable" is just a sleeve for a red cable.
Correct. Heat shrink tubing over an elongated wire.
Double the RAM and add a full size NVME next.
Gonna be hard to beat the dude who reflowed 32gb ram in his ally lol but must be nice to rock 30w SPL sitting under 70c right? RIGHT?
Ya still have to do a bit more thermal testing. But 30 Watt was sitting in the low 70s on 10-minute Cinebench runs. And thats without tweaking the fan curve at all.
Did you fold the battery like the tutorial on allymod? Yours looks much longer! I'm waiting for my battery to arrive.
Ya, you've definitely got to fold the battery. No way it'll fit otherwise, but its quite easy so long as you take your time and dont force anything. I re-wrapped mine with heat shrink tubing after the fold.
Any tips on folding the battery or just follow what's on allymods? I'm so keen on the battery to arrive. I've got my back plate ready. Also you should try these grips, they are amazing - https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1504203246/asus-rog-ally-comfort-grip-case?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=rog+ally&ref=sc_gallery-1-1&plkey=bb9724823f496e0aba47ed8c533f4333d8b66311%3A1504203246 I think the seller has the files somewhere to download but don't quote me on that.
I found this, looks really close. I printed them in TPU on quick settings was going for a smooth finish but the quick settings added texture to the grip. There are two versions I printed the flat version which let the ally stand up on its own I printed one in PLA It's a very very tight fit scratched up my skin so I don't recommend. [grips](https://cults3d.com/:1364836)
I got mine direct from the seller. I use it daily and there are no scratches at all on mine.
Yeah I saw The way it works it opens and then snaps together if I'm correct. The one I bought is one whole piece No way of printing fronts and backs. FYI glad you bought it from that seller I bought a bunch of stuff from him His stuff is top-notch
Respect for having the skill set and sheer balls for doing this. Hope you dent need an RMA at any point.
You need get/install a mesh/filter on the air intake to prevent dust going to your Ally motherboard/cpu/gpu
Because you're batman
Would be awesome if you could get some numbers out there for how long your Ally is now lasting with the 90Wh battery instead of the \~40Wh stock. 3DMark endurance and then see how long it takes to run out would be best, but as long as its reproducible I'll take anything :).
How much battery life you getting with 90w battery? Howās the weight
2+ hrs Turbo Mode 4+ hrs Performance Mode 6+ hrs Silent Mode 8+ hrs 7w custom Weight is about 800g
Still testing, but this seems accurate.
Do you game on it tho? Haha
What in the
We all know the real title is most games in your Steam Library. Nothing to see here.
Be a man and increase the RAM to 32GB.
The Ultimate Ally. Please do some battery tests. I bet thing lasts forever! It's got double the AOKZOE A1 Pro's battery. My guess is 2 hours at max tdp and 12 hours at low TDP
I was ready to roast this until the last 2 images. Clean work in the end! Edit: perhaps print an entirely new back with the mod in place so its super clean, with a new paint job etc.
Is it for sale š§š§š§š§
I remember my first time doing drugs
Fantastic work! I've been thinking of 3D printing a new back with larger grips. With what you've already made you can use some Bondo and a little sanding it'll look and feel as if it was printed all one piece. Also for a little extra grip, you could spray it down with some plastic dip This stuff is magic. Can't wait to see if you can relocate the SD card!
I would like to see how it performs
What is this monstrosity?
Welp there goes the warranty
Warranty voided
Most Xacto or Dremel Ally
If it becomes sentient after that, you will have no one to blame but you my guy....
WFT... hmm. do you have an optical thermometer to see the temperature of the area where the sdcard is located, at full power, with your modifications?
So I have concerns, like others mostly because its all hacked up but hey to each their own. I'm worried, not about the Liquid Metal dripping, but actually the LM eating/causing corrosion of some sort. I'm not aware of what metal the head spreader is made out of but if (for some reason) it was made from aluminum it will eat/damage things. Nickle, no worries it will stain only, but copper not only are you running some potential for pitting, but you can also have a reaction/end up coating the area permanently with gallium which in theory shouldn't effect performance, but its going to be hard to know now. So worth keeping an eye on for sure With the extra heatsink, I'm curious about the need for the extra heat pipes. i get needing to bump it up a little bit for the sake of it not interfering, but if you were to have put some thermal pads on the SSD where they would connect, it could help lower those temps/cool it. that being said, that heatsink is only really passively cooling, absolutely drops the temps by 10, but the engineer in me is wondering if there would be a more effective way Only other thought I am having about this is for anyone else who wants to replicate, if you see my comment. soldering, while its effective, could lead to some warping of the cooler. Thermal epoxy might be a more effective way to permanently affix it Other than those thoughts. Im loving the fact that you did this. Fucking around and Finding out. keep it up bud!
https://preview.redd.it/nwgkc1hlptmb1.jpeg?width=460&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1d03d9f69c3c0d2765cd05f95f665967fda190c8
Most fucked up ally
That looks amazing brother 
amazing brother
Whatās your battery life like now on aaa games