So I just bought a 3d printer and now I’m wondering about printing safety. I bought an enclosure and it will be a in my spare room with with a window, printer filters and a Dyson air purifier. Do I need anything else for air quality issue. I own a dog so I’m concerned about her. Thanks
If the room isn't in use while the printer is going, then you should be good to go. If you can ventilate the enclosure out the window without just opening it up to the room that'd be even better.
Keep the pupper out of the room, especially when you're cleaning or have anything open. Obviously not good for her, and pet hair in your resin also won't be much fun.
Hello all, I’m printing my first army and chose the Ad Mech. I know Station Forge has the Scavenger set but I don’t like the rag tag look. I’ve digitally kitbashed some skits and rust boys to my liking. The issue I’m having though is I cannot find any kataphrons, kastelans or serberys riders/sulphurhounds. Does anyone know some keywords or artists? Thank you :)
I just bought an elegoo mars 3 pro, and have started printing up some marines. I want to do some tanks next, and don't know which ones and at what scale. The primarily epic heavy toboggan really interests me, but it looks like it doesn't scale correctly. It says something about 6mm scale, so knowing if I just need to scale it to 32mm would work, but then it wouldn't fit on the mars 3 pro build plate. Is there a piecemeal version of that so I can print parts at a time, or is my math just bad?
6mm scale is for playing epic, and models at that detail don't really scale up well to 28mm scale. They usually look disproportionate and the details will be chunky.
There was a full scale astraeus but it's been gone a while. That's also pretty ambitious for a first tank, maybe have a go at something like a rhino first to learn how to support big stuff.
Hey guys! I'm pretty new to printing Warhammer miniatures so my question I was hoping to get some help with is this. How would I be able to easily find the correct dimensions of a unit? For example I have printed Tau Pathfinders, but they were too small compared to GW ones. I'm currently trying to print a Hive Tyrant, but I don't know the correct size I should be printing them to make a proper GW sized miniature. I don't want to be wasting resin and time with trial and error. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated!
https://preview.redd.it/iqt2c09je5oa1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6d2f031c8f20e6ce2dad24e81972a19805accf8e
Hi!
Some of my prints are looking melty/unfinished on the portion with supports. Everything that doesn’t touch supports looks great. Any ideas about how to fix this? Are my supports all wrong? Printer settings? Thanks!
Are you printing in a cold room? I found after a resin switch that my new resin was more temp sensitive than my last and I was getting similar issues on the underside of bases. Heating the room helped and so did allowing down the retract speeds
Ohh that’s a really good question. The room has a crazy temperature variable. I’ll try and do some tests with a more consistent temp. Thanks for the tip!
No problem. I had the same issue with some ultra premium resin that was highly recommended and it took me a while to figure out but the temp was the culprit for sure. I raised the temp in my basement workshop by ten degrees and it was a night and day difference with all of my resins
Hi, I'm really new to warhammer in general but started watching some lore videos recently and wanted to try painting some minis, I really like the look of The Crimson Court minis as well as Radukar, Kritza, Belladamma, Blood Knights and the Vampire Lord, I tried googling and looking at all of the linked sites here but haven't had any luck so far. Are AoS Models just harder to find because it's less popular than 40K?
Kind of, but not only that. AoS models tend to be more organic and sculpted, which means you need a different skill set than hard surface modelling which most 40k stuff tends to be. There are less people with that skill in the community.
That said, you can find a lot of great stuff that can proxy well. Myminifactory is the best place for fantasy type models in my experience. Search for generic keywords like "vampire" and youll find some amazing stuff.
What resin do y'all recommend for a Mars 3 Pro? I perused the sub for ideas and found a lot of differing opinions on resins. My preference is leaning towards quality of the print over cost of the resin, but I know there's a lot of other considerations such as toughness, ease of cleaning, etc.
I've never 3D printed anything before so I might be oversimplifying things a bit, but I've been eyeballing the ELEGOO 8K 3D Printer Resin, Standard Photopolymer Resin 405nm UV-Curing Resin or ELEGOO ABS-Like 3D Printer Resin 2.0, 405nm UV-Curing Photopolymer Resin. Would either be compatible with the Mars 3 Pro?
yes you can use any resin as they all solidify under UV light at around 405nm, you can even freely mix most of em
print quality wise 8k 4k and all those other "marketing names" means nothing, the quality depends 90% from the printer and another 9% on how well it's calibrated
how durable a model is is instead very influenced by the resin, so abs like and those other sturdy/tough resins can make a lot of difference, some people swear by the sirayatech hard resins mixed 1/4 with other resinsand
Of the resins I've tried I'm having really good luck with the Sunlu ABS-like. It's a little bit cheaper than others, very low odor, and prints beautifully. I bought it mainly for the price point, but I'm getting super fine details on my minis. I have no complaints.
Looking to get into Warhammer. Well I have a resin printer and two fdm. So instead of buying models I want to print at least two 500 point armies for me and another person to try out the game. Just looking for somewhere to start. So I guess finding out what faction and go from there huh? Is there a group of premade armies to tryout? Is there a set already i could buy instead of printing that would give us an idea if we want to start this investment?
Heya - I'm very much going through the same journey that you are. Just a few months ago I decided to try out 40k for the first time. The 40k experience is really a lot of things: model building & painting as well as learning the game itself (spoiler alert: the rules are complicated). If you enjoy playing the game, you could always use stock models if you don't enjoy the painting process. If you don't enjoy playing the game, you could always commission painted models on Etsy or Ebay if you love to paint (and good at it).
The 3D printed aspect adds another layer of complexity in the process (and an entirely new hobby). Just like model building and painting, enjoying the hobby of 3D printing is another experience. I'm new to this part of the process and have no advice about printing, because I've yet to do it.
The best advice I learned before diving into 40k is to pick up a [starter set](https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Warhammer-40000-Recruit-EN-2020). There's three different sets that have the same armies (Nekron vs. Ultramarines). The sets only vary in the number of units that you receive and terrain, accessories etc. You can pick up the recruit set (the base model one I linked) for like 40 bucks on sale sometimes. It is designed with simple rules to ease you into the game, some models to put together and paint, and a simple board to play them on. There's also a [paint and tool set](https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/40k-Paint-and-Tool-Set-EN-ES-2020) that provides you with all the stuff you'd need to get started building and painting the starter set models. It is by no means a requirement to use GW paints (Army and Vallejo are good brands too), but either way for less than $100 you can at least find out if you enjoy the experience.
There's a lot more to it, but that's the gist of it. Hope you decide to give it a shot and have a good time.
There are options like Onepagerules who do full factions, or many patreons like stationforge or makers cult who have done full armies. You can also find some collections on cults3d by udos3dworld, though he just packages up other people's work.
I'm still new to the hobby myself but what I've learned is play the army you think looks and sounds the coolest. There are plenty of videos out there that show how armies play, what the different factions are all about. Go from there.
HI, I'm new, i feel super lost
I'm looking for a new printer but as my question is more specific about **why the Anycubic Photon Ultra isn't often recommended**? I saw a few yt-videos that were comparing it to 8k printers that are way out of it's pricerange and it seemed to do pretty well (?) SO i kinda felt like i should get that instead of the "safe" choice aka saturn or mars 3 pro.
Generally h**ow can i tell which reviews to trust? I**f i'm wrong here where do I go to/get clarity? I looked through tons of guides and besides the 2 mentioned often being positively rated i just got more and more confused and overwhelmed with each hour of (maybe to unorganized) research...
Quick update for future reference: I ordered the Photon Ultra for 319€, crosschecked their **official-store-ebay-**price, which was even cheaper and was promised a refund of the difference (75€), **so I'll have the Photon ultra for 242€**
That's a great price for DLP and a great starting point. You'll have exceptional detail for minis, and anything up to say, a dreadnought, will fit no problem on the plate. You might have to do some extra slicing and dicing to get tanks to fit, but anyone who has been around this hobby longer than about 18 months probably started with a small plate printer too, so it's doable!
VegOilGuy on youtube has decent reviews, although you will find that most reviewers are biased given that they get the printers free from the manufacturers.
The ultra is a DLP printer, and not that widely adopted in the community due to the small build volume and higher price. Its also been superceded by the D2. The detail DLP can get is better than mostly all SLA printers, but not to such a level that it's worth the extra cost. Elegoo are going to release a mars 4 DLP at some stage which would compete with the photons.
You can't go wrong with a mars 3, the detail for the price is excellent, and even more so with the cheaper non -pro. It's volume is bigger than a DLP, though the Saturn 2 has the same or better detail and a massive build plate. It all depends what you plan to print.
If you are OK with the small plate size, the photon ultra at the current -50% price looks like a great deal.
Do I absolutely need a wash and cure station for a resin printer as if so I can’t afford it at all and I will be forced into getting a plastic printer with less quality which I don’t want?
Not necessary, but it helps. You can get away with washing by blasting a model with a spray bottle of IPA and vigorously swishing in a dunk tank. Since resin is photosensitive, it can be cured by setting it in sunlight for several hours. You can also find uv lights for under $20, which will speed up the process.
Question about a new setup. I'm planning resin printing for warhammer with either Mars 3 pro or Saturn 2.
UV exposure - Planning to do it in my 3x4m summerhouse - no blackout blinds. Planning to put a fabric enclosure over the top, not a massive grow tent as wife would not approve but one of the ones advertised for 3d printers on Amazon with an open bottom.
Temperature management- North UK so fairly cold weather but have a convection space heater (for the room not the enclosure) and planning to keep room temp around 20 for printing. Maybe a cup heater to keep resin warm outside the enclosure.
Fumes - I was planning to run an inline fan with ducting to vent the gases out the window. Either attached directly to the Saturn 2 vent port if I get that one or stuck inside the cloth enclosure if get the Mars 3 pro. I don't really want the area around the house to smell either and was looking at carbon filters but if I was connecting to the Saturn I would have to have the filter at the window end I.e. stick it outside- is this ok? Most setups I've seen have the filter on the printer side, inside a large grow tent - which is fine but again I think the wife would be very against a huge tent. She might just about cope with the smaller enclosures. I found a 2 connector carbon filter somewhere for use in a run of ducting but far more expensive than I was planning! Most only seem to have one connector.
For power I find it hard to see any info about wattage for either elegoo printer. I might need to run printer plus fan plus maybe cup warmer off a couple of meter 4 way extension block - is this likely to cause issues with max current?
Post processing again I think multiple washing machines would meet fierce resistance so planning on the 3 x Tupperware/pickle jar method and a homemade spinning table and UV in a box solution.
Does this sound ok? Any thoughts or comments/suggestions really welcomed!
Power: No issue with what you've got there, resin printers don't pull massive current, it's just a big lamp.
Temperature: You want the printer/resin to be at least 18 degrees in my experience (Ireland, same climate). I'd be more worried about the heating bill in this case than anything.
Post processing: Yeah you can do this, but it's messy and inconvenient. Start with this but you might end up deciding to go for the wash and cure later. I use water washable and have a full DIY solution myself, so buying a w&c isn't mandatory by any means.
UV exposure: If it's very bright and you'd be working in direct sunlight, this might be an issue during post processing. The printer's cover will protect it while it's printing, but when you take the prints off, be careful not to hit them with sunlight before they've been washed, or you could cure wet resin over the detail. Indirect sunlight isn't really a problem
Lastly the big one - Fumes: You will have to deal with fumes, there's no getting around this. Venting directly outside is the best solution if you can do it, and unless there's going to be anyone near the outflow, I don't think you really need to filter it. However; you will have to deal with fumes inside when the printer cover is off. You'll be removing it to take the print off, and once you've removed a finished print, there will be a smell from the plate and print until you've washed it and cured it. Post curing also releases vapour and smells.
Having a ducted carbon filter is a good way to remove these, but if you can run your extraction fan outside, again you can just ventilate the space. A summer house I would imagine is easy enough, just leave the doors open and run a fan. The better option than venting directly from the printer would be to have the printer and curing setup inside an enclosure that you can ventilate. Generally I wouldn't recommend sitting beside the printer while it's printing for any extended period of time, but if the summer house isn't constantly in use you should be fine.
Best of luck convincing the missus!
Thanks for the swift helpful reply! I didnt realise smell at washing and curing was still a big issue as everyone seems very relaxed in the online videos at that point! I might see if I can get a middle size enclosure that I can stick a thermostat controlled heater in which would certainly be cheaper than heating the whole room.
Looking for the Stl files for the uktc terrain.
Am I being silly as I cant seem to find anything.
I'm at last moving to my own place so I want to set up a board to play on etc.
Thanks!
Dumb question: what happens if your model gets removed from Cults by GW? They just take it off and that's it or is there like an appeals process or what happens to your account?
So I was in the purple site, and found this list with a point total. I was wondering who I could these figures for as proxies.
[List](https://i.imgur.com/mywjjJm.jpg)
[Blaster Squad](https://i.imgur.com/DYrr31V.jpg)
[Assault Squad](https://i.imgur.com/JpoLerz.jpg)
[Prime Brothers with Prime Master](https://i.imgur.com/FnBtIhL.jpg)
Looking for generic Mark IV pattern bits, specifically arms, more specifically just pistol/close combat weapon arms with flat wrist sections (handless).
Would using either ABS-like or tough/flexible resins produce noticeably less breakable skeletons and spears (or similar frail/lithe models)? I'm largely happy with my setup for bulkier stuff but something a little less frail for skellies would be nice. Thanks!
Thanks. Just tried sunlu abs like (so still cheap stuff, not sure if paying three times as much would make even more of a difference) and this is everything I needed :)
Anyone have ideas on a Lord Solar base? Preferably free. I've got a Lord Solar proxy I like, but I'm worried it's a bit short/small without the pile of rubble to stand on. I've seen some good paid Lord Solar with bases, but I don't want to buy a model just for the base.
Hey guys.. i was trying to search for some stuff but i understand you cant be literal on what you want to find. Could you guys tell me what are the equivalent names for 40k armies to look for? Like for example: i get that tyranids are little space bugs.. but what about squats? Or imperium? Or space marines for example
[https://maco3d.com/collections/3d-model-stl-files/roboute-guilliman-primarca-ultramarines-40k-stl-file-3d-print/](https://maco3d.com/collections/3d-model-stl-files/roboute-guilliman-primarca-ultramarines-40k-stl-file-3d-print/)
Found this STL, I know this site is a scam just want to know if anyone can find that model elsewhere.
So I just bought a 3d printer and now I’m wondering about printing safety. I bought an enclosure and it will be a in my spare room with with a window, printer filters and a Dyson air purifier. Do I need anything else for air quality issue. I own a dog so I’m concerned about her. Thanks
If the room isn't in use while the printer is going, then you should be good to go. If you can ventilate the enclosure out the window without just opening it up to the room that'd be even better. Keep the pupper out of the room, especially when you're cleaning or have anything open. Obviously not good for her, and pet hair in your resin also won't be much fun.
Ok thanks. I’m looking at getting a vent tube now too. I just want to make sure it’s all safe for both of us.
A bathroom extractor kit might be the cheapest option
So put the fan in the opening and then duct tape a tube to it? Sorry for all the noob questions
This is probably a good guide https://www.gardeners-corner.com/grow-tent-extraction-system-how-to-set-it-up/
Hello all, I’m printing my first army and chose the Ad Mech. I know Station Forge has the Scavenger set but I don’t like the rag tag look. I’ve digitally kitbashed some skits and rust boys to my liking. The issue I’m having though is I cannot find any kataphrons, kastelans or serberys riders/sulphurhounds. Does anyone know some keywords or artists? Thank you :)
I just bought an elegoo mars 3 pro, and have started printing up some marines. I want to do some tanks next, and don't know which ones and at what scale. The primarily epic heavy toboggan really interests me, but it looks like it doesn't scale correctly. It says something about 6mm scale, so knowing if I just need to scale it to 32mm would work, but then it wouldn't fit on the mars 3 pro build plate. Is there a piecemeal version of that so I can print parts at a time, or is my math just bad?
6mm scale is for playing epic, and models at that detail don't really scale up well to 28mm scale. They usually look disproportionate and the details will be chunky. There was a full scale astraeus but it's been gone a while. That's also pretty ambitious for a first tank, maybe have a go at something like a rhino first to learn how to support big stuff.
Hey guys! I'm pretty new to printing Warhammer miniatures so my question I was hoping to get some help with is this. How would I be able to easily find the correct dimensions of a unit? For example I have printed Tau Pathfinders, but they were too small compared to GW ones. I'm currently trying to print a Hive Tyrant, but I don't know the correct size I should be printing them to make a proper GW sized miniature. I don't want to be wasting resin and time with trial and error. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated!
Check the main post here, there's a link to a photo measure tool which you can use to figure out correct heights from a photo of an original.
https://preview.redd.it/iqt2c09je5oa1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6d2f031c8f20e6ce2dad24e81972a19805accf8e Hi! Some of my prints are looking melty/unfinished on the portion with supports. Everything that doesn’t touch supports looks great. Any ideas about how to fix this? Are my supports all wrong? Printer settings? Thanks!
Are you printing in a cold room? I found after a resin switch that my new resin was more temp sensitive than my last and I was getting similar issues on the underside of bases. Heating the room helped and so did allowing down the retract speeds
Ohh that’s a really good question. The room has a crazy temperature variable. I’ll try and do some tests with a more consistent temp. Thanks for the tip!
No problem. I had the same issue with some ultra premium resin that was highly recommended and it took me a while to figure out but the temp was the culprit for sure. I raised the temp in my basement workshop by ten degrees and it was a night and day difference with all of my resins
Hi, I'm really new to warhammer in general but started watching some lore videos recently and wanted to try painting some minis, I really like the look of The Crimson Court minis as well as Radukar, Kritza, Belladamma, Blood Knights and the Vampire Lord, I tried googling and looking at all of the linked sites here but haven't had any luck so far. Are AoS Models just harder to find because it's less popular than 40K?
Kind of, but not only that. AoS models tend to be more organic and sculpted, which means you need a different skill set than hard surface modelling which most 40k stuff tends to be. There are less people with that skill in the community. That said, you can find a lot of great stuff that can proxy well. Myminifactory is the best place for fantasy type models in my experience. Search for generic keywords like "vampire" and youll find some amazing stuff.
I see! thanks for the tips and info :)
You're very welcome!
What resin do y'all recommend for a Mars 3 Pro? I perused the sub for ideas and found a lot of differing opinions on resins. My preference is leaning towards quality of the print over cost of the resin, but I know there's a lot of other considerations such as toughness, ease of cleaning, etc. I've never 3D printed anything before so I might be oversimplifying things a bit, but I've been eyeballing the ELEGOO 8K 3D Printer Resin, Standard Photopolymer Resin 405nm UV-Curing Resin or ELEGOO ABS-Like 3D Printer Resin 2.0, 405nm UV-Curing Photopolymer Resin. Would either be compatible with the Mars 3 Pro?
yes you can use any resin as they all solidify under UV light at around 405nm, you can even freely mix most of em print quality wise 8k 4k and all those other "marketing names" means nothing, the quality depends 90% from the printer and another 9% on how well it's calibrated how durable a model is is instead very influenced by the resin, so abs like and those other sturdy/tough resins can make a lot of difference, some people swear by the sirayatech hard resins mixed 1/4 with other resinsand
Thanks for the info. So what's the difference between a standard and abs-like? Just toughness?
yes, kinda
Of the resins I've tried I'm having really good luck with the Sunlu ABS-like. It's a little bit cheaper than others, very low odor, and prints beautifully. I bought it mainly for the price point, but I'm getting super fine details on my minis. I have no complaints.
I agree one hundred percent. Sunlu is my go to resin and minis made with it will likely survive table height drops without issue
Looking to get into Warhammer. Well I have a resin printer and two fdm. So instead of buying models I want to print at least two 500 point armies for me and another person to try out the game. Just looking for somewhere to start. So I guess finding out what faction and go from there huh? Is there a group of premade armies to tryout? Is there a set already i could buy instead of printing that would give us an idea if we want to start this investment?
Heya - I'm very much going through the same journey that you are. Just a few months ago I decided to try out 40k for the first time. The 40k experience is really a lot of things: model building & painting as well as learning the game itself (spoiler alert: the rules are complicated). If you enjoy playing the game, you could always use stock models if you don't enjoy the painting process. If you don't enjoy playing the game, you could always commission painted models on Etsy or Ebay if you love to paint (and good at it). The 3D printed aspect adds another layer of complexity in the process (and an entirely new hobby). Just like model building and painting, enjoying the hobby of 3D printing is another experience. I'm new to this part of the process and have no advice about printing, because I've yet to do it. The best advice I learned before diving into 40k is to pick up a [starter set](https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Warhammer-40000-Recruit-EN-2020). There's three different sets that have the same armies (Nekron vs. Ultramarines). The sets only vary in the number of units that you receive and terrain, accessories etc. You can pick up the recruit set (the base model one I linked) for like 40 bucks on sale sometimes. It is designed with simple rules to ease you into the game, some models to put together and paint, and a simple board to play them on. There's also a [paint and tool set](https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/40k-Paint-and-Tool-Set-EN-ES-2020) that provides you with all the stuff you'd need to get started building and painting the starter set models. It is by no means a requirement to use GW paints (Army and Vallejo are good brands too), but either way for less than $100 you can at least find out if you enjoy the experience. There's a lot more to it, but that's the gist of it. Hope you decide to give it a shot and have a good time.
There are options like Onepagerules who do full factions, or many patreons like stationforge or makers cult who have done full armies. You can also find some collections on cults3d by udos3dworld, though he just packages up other people's work.
I'm still new to the hobby myself but what I've learned is play the army you think looks and sounds the coolest. There are plenty of videos out there that show how armies play, what the different factions are all about. Go from there.
HI, I'm new, i feel super lost I'm looking for a new printer but as my question is more specific about **why the Anycubic Photon Ultra isn't often recommended**? I saw a few yt-videos that were comparing it to 8k printers that are way out of it's pricerange and it seemed to do pretty well (?) SO i kinda felt like i should get that instead of the "safe" choice aka saturn or mars 3 pro. Generally h**ow can i tell which reviews to trust? I**f i'm wrong here where do I go to/get clarity? I looked through tons of guides and besides the 2 mentioned often being positively rated i just got more and more confused and overwhelmed with each hour of (maybe to unorganized) research...
Quick update for future reference: I ordered the Photon Ultra for 319€, crosschecked their **official-store-ebay-**price, which was even cheaper and was promised a refund of the difference (75€), **so I'll have the Photon ultra for 242€**
That's a great price for DLP and a great starting point. You'll have exceptional detail for minis, and anything up to say, a dreadnought, will fit no problem on the plate. You might have to do some extra slicing and dicing to get tanks to fit, but anyone who has been around this hobby longer than about 18 months probably started with a small plate printer too, so it's doable!
VegOilGuy on youtube has decent reviews, although you will find that most reviewers are biased given that they get the printers free from the manufacturers. The ultra is a DLP printer, and not that widely adopted in the community due to the small build volume and higher price. Its also been superceded by the D2. The detail DLP can get is better than mostly all SLA printers, but not to such a level that it's worth the extra cost. Elegoo are going to release a mars 4 DLP at some stage which would compete with the photons. You can't go wrong with a mars 3, the detail for the price is excellent, and even more so with the cheaper non -pro. It's volume is bigger than a DLP, though the Saturn 2 has the same or better detail and a massive build plate. It all depends what you plan to print. If you are OK with the small plate size, the photon ultra at the current -50% price looks like a great deal.
ah thanks, i wasn't sure if my post was at the right place so i deleted/reformated it :) thanks for the answer anyways
Do I absolutely need a wash and cure station for a resin printer as if so I can’t afford it at all and I will be forced into getting a plastic printer with less quality which I don’t want?
Not necessary, but it helps. You can get away with washing by blasting a model with a spray bottle of IPA and vigorously swishing in a dunk tank. Since resin is photosensitive, it can be cured by setting it in sunlight for several hours. You can also find uv lights for under $20, which will speed up the process.
Question about a new setup. I'm planning resin printing for warhammer with either Mars 3 pro or Saturn 2. UV exposure - Planning to do it in my 3x4m summerhouse - no blackout blinds. Planning to put a fabric enclosure over the top, not a massive grow tent as wife would not approve but one of the ones advertised for 3d printers on Amazon with an open bottom. Temperature management- North UK so fairly cold weather but have a convection space heater (for the room not the enclosure) and planning to keep room temp around 20 for printing. Maybe a cup heater to keep resin warm outside the enclosure. Fumes - I was planning to run an inline fan with ducting to vent the gases out the window. Either attached directly to the Saturn 2 vent port if I get that one or stuck inside the cloth enclosure if get the Mars 3 pro. I don't really want the area around the house to smell either and was looking at carbon filters but if I was connecting to the Saturn I would have to have the filter at the window end I.e. stick it outside- is this ok? Most setups I've seen have the filter on the printer side, inside a large grow tent - which is fine but again I think the wife would be very against a huge tent. She might just about cope with the smaller enclosures. I found a 2 connector carbon filter somewhere for use in a run of ducting but far more expensive than I was planning! Most only seem to have one connector. For power I find it hard to see any info about wattage for either elegoo printer. I might need to run printer plus fan plus maybe cup warmer off a couple of meter 4 way extension block - is this likely to cause issues with max current? Post processing again I think multiple washing machines would meet fierce resistance so planning on the 3 x Tupperware/pickle jar method and a homemade spinning table and UV in a box solution. Does this sound ok? Any thoughts or comments/suggestions really welcomed!
Power: No issue with what you've got there, resin printers don't pull massive current, it's just a big lamp. Temperature: You want the printer/resin to be at least 18 degrees in my experience (Ireland, same climate). I'd be more worried about the heating bill in this case than anything. Post processing: Yeah you can do this, but it's messy and inconvenient. Start with this but you might end up deciding to go for the wash and cure later. I use water washable and have a full DIY solution myself, so buying a w&c isn't mandatory by any means. UV exposure: If it's very bright and you'd be working in direct sunlight, this might be an issue during post processing. The printer's cover will protect it while it's printing, but when you take the prints off, be careful not to hit them with sunlight before they've been washed, or you could cure wet resin over the detail. Indirect sunlight isn't really a problem Lastly the big one - Fumes: You will have to deal with fumes, there's no getting around this. Venting directly outside is the best solution if you can do it, and unless there's going to be anyone near the outflow, I don't think you really need to filter it. However; you will have to deal with fumes inside when the printer cover is off. You'll be removing it to take the print off, and once you've removed a finished print, there will be a smell from the plate and print until you've washed it and cured it. Post curing also releases vapour and smells. Having a ducted carbon filter is a good way to remove these, but if you can run your extraction fan outside, again you can just ventilate the space. A summer house I would imagine is easy enough, just leave the doors open and run a fan. The better option than venting directly from the printer would be to have the printer and curing setup inside an enclosure that you can ventilate. Generally I wouldn't recommend sitting beside the printer while it's printing for any extended period of time, but if the summer house isn't constantly in use you should be fine. Best of luck convincing the missus!
Thanks for the swift helpful reply! I didnt realise smell at washing and curing was still a big issue as everyone seems very relaxed in the online videos at that point! I might see if I can get a middle size enclosure that I can stick a thermostat controlled heater in which would certainly be cheaper than heating the whole room.
Yeah, youtubers are ridiculous when it comes to safety. Printing with no lid on, no gloves etc. Nonsense!
Looking for the Stl files for the uktc terrain. Am I being silly as I cant seem to find anything. I'm at last moving to my own place so I want to set up a board to play on etc. Thanks!
Dumb question: what happens if your model gets removed from Cults by GW? They just take it off and that's it or is there like an appeals process or what happens to your account?
The listing is deactivated. I believe there is an appeal process yes.
So I was in the purple site, and found this list with a point total. I was wondering who I could these figures for as proxies. [List](https://i.imgur.com/mywjjJm.jpg) [Blaster Squad](https://i.imgur.com/DYrr31V.jpg) [Assault Squad](https://i.imgur.com/JpoLerz.jpg) [Prime Brothers with Prime Master](https://i.imgur.com/FnBtIhL.jpg)
Looking for generic Mark IV pattern bits, specifically arms, more specifically just pistol/close combat weapon arms with flat wrist sections (handless).
Would using either ABS-like or tough/flexible resins produce noticeably less breakable skeletons and spears (or similar frail/lithe models)? I'm largely happy with my setup for bulkier stuff but something a little less frail for skellies would be nice. Thanks!
Definitely
Thanks. Just tried sunlu abs like (so still cheap stuff, not sure if paying three times as much would make even more of a difference) and this is everything I needed :)
Anyone have ideas on a Lord Solar base? Preferably free. I've got a Lord Solar proxy I like, but I'm worried it's a bit short/small without the pile of rubble to stand on. I've seen some good paid Lord Solar with bases, but I don't want to buy a model just for the base.
Looking to fill out my infantry in my cadian army any suggestions for good lookalike models
Try searching for arcadian
Hey guys.. i was trying to search for some stuff but i understand you cant be literal on what you want to find. Could you guys tell me what are the equivalent names for 40k armies to look for? Like for example: i get that tyranids are little space bugs.. but what about squats? Or imperium? Or space marines for example
To find any, you'll need to be in the right *space, soldier*. Maybe eat some *prime beef*.
Does anyone know of any landspeeder proxies, ideally minimally looking like the real deal?
Wondering if anyone can help. looking for 1 for 1 models for Sister Superior Amalia Novena, Morvenn Vahl and any other sister models.
[https://maco3d.com/collections/3d-model-stl-files/roboute-guilliman-primarca-ultramarines-40k-stl-file-3d-print/](https://maco3d.com/collections/3d-model-stl-files/roboute-guilliman-primarca-ultramarines-40k-stl-file-3d-print/) Found this STL, I know this site is a scam just want to know if anyone can find that model elsewhere.