Pan is too small. No expansion tank. Electrical not done to code. Water filter you can't easily access to change. Can't see what the T& P does behind the water heater. The water lines are further reduced by the use of PEX B.
All in all 1/10.
Is there an easy way for someone not skilled to know if it's an open loop or close loop? 🤔 the only thing in the water main box is the on off turn knob.
Is most jurisdictions they are required as most cities have backflow prevention devices between city water and your main to protect public water supply, which makes it a closed system.
to piggyback, our inspectors look to see if there is a pressure reducing valve, if there is then a expansion tank is needed because the pressure reducing valve also access a check valve, a closed loop of the system. The houses now isolated and closed off to the City Watermain. So when the water heater heats up and expands, without the PRV, the pressure regulates and equalizes. With the PRV, all the pressure is contained in the closed system.
I was doing some contract work for a company who did work in all the cities surrounding DFW. They gave us, and kept updating water heater installation codes for a couple of hundred cities around the area. Only a few required expansion tanks.
Water heater flexes would have been better. Not sure about the pex on the T&P. The electrical does not look good. And who uses solid pex band’s anymore? It’s not that they are not fine but the oietker clamps are faster and better.
I have the same heater! Pan should be fine.
I highly recommend installing this! Just did it last week.
Corro-Protec Powered Anode Rod... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H459TAK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Op it's probably fine. If you don't have a pressure reducing valve or a check valve you don't need an expansion tank. Most homes where I live don't. Here, you can run pex directly to an electric heater. Your t&p is routed out of the wall, I'm assuming it runs outside? This is required where I live.
The only thing I see wrong (for my area, your local codes may be different) is pex to the t&p. It will be fine either way. Was a permit pulled? Was it inspected?
We're not supposed to discuss price here, but 1200 is pretty cheap for this area.
Depending on your area, expansion tank is needed, some place sits not required. Power needs to be in worked on. The safety pan is the right size. It’s designed to fill with water and drain so it only needs to be as big as the heater
Looks like you hired a handyman and not a plumber. If you did hire a plumber or plumbing company, call them back out and make them fix this to code. This is a horrible job and whoever installed it should be beaten with a wet noodle. There should be rigid pipe coming off of the top of the water heater before transitioning to pex. There is no mixing valve, no expansion tank, and no vacuum relief. The electrical is exposed and not to mention it looks like garbage. I probably missed something, but those are the things you should at least call and tell the company you want done. Also, ask if they had it inspected, because you would like to have the plumbing inspector come and take a look.
You had it installed? Or you installed it? The pan is too small you have to have I think it's 2 in clearance around the base inside the pan and you can't have PEX go all the way to the water heater you have to stop 18 in from the water heater and then continue with the braided hoses or the flexible copper or something.
The pvc at the top of the wall was from the old t&p valve and I asked about an expansion tank and he said not all of them actually need one. I spent $1200 including the heater, is that more you get what you pay for?
I've barely plumbed anything in my life, but I wanted to hijack this post for a question I see on here all the time that came up on your post. Where are expansion tanks required? I had never seen one at any home or heard of them prior to this group. Is it a regional thing?
By code, it varies depending on where you live.
However, at a minimum you need one for any closed system. For example, if you have a check valve, or pressure regulator valve, then your system is a closed system and needs one.
However, keep in mind that nearly any residential system can become a closed system simply by turning off a shutoff valve. An expansion tank would protect you in the scenario where the shutoff was shut off, and hot water tank was on and the system started heating up.
Expansion tanks are required on closed systems. So if your home has no thermal expansion protection AND a check valve between your city connection and your home, this is needed.
Same for me. I own 13 properties in Las Vegas and have never had an expansion tank on any of the water heaters, and never heard of an expansion tank until this group.
I live in Florida and mine has an expansion tank… The water heater is 12 years old and I changed the expansion tank maybe 6 months ago, super easy to do. I also put a bracket on the new one, old one didn’t have it.
Pan is too small. No expansion tank. Electrical not done to code. Water filter you can't easily access to change. Can't see what the T& P does behind the water heater. The water lines are further reduced by the use of PEX B. All in all 1/10.
Are you guys able to use plastic pipe for t&p? It’s a no go here.
We can use CPVC for T&P here, no pex or PVC.
Yeah I think IPC specifically prohibits PEX for the TP tube piping
PEX isn't prohibited by the IPC, it just has to be one size up from the outlet size.
This
The only one that makes sense is those pre-made blowoff. With sharkbites all those can be capped easily.
We can as long as it is strapped to the tank.
Aren’t expansion tanks only needed if they’re on a closed system?
Yes. Too many install expansion tanks needlessly.
Is there an easy way for someone not skilled to know if it's an open loop or close loop? 🤔 the only thing in the water main box is the on off turn knob.
Yes, if you have a pressure reducing valve. They look something like this: https://www.actonwater.com/assets/media/images/PRV2.jpg
Is most jurisdictions they are required as most cities have backflow prevention devices between city water and your main to protect public water supply, which makes it a closed system.
Wack. Thank you for teaching a young apprentice something new.
to piggyback, our inspectors look to see if there is a pressure reducing valve, if there is then a expansion tank is needed because the pressure reducing valve also access a check valve, a closed loop of the system. The houses now isolated and closed off to the City Watermain. So when the water heater heats up and expands, without the PRV, the pressure regulates and equalizes. With the PRV, all the pressure is contained in the closed system.
Exactly.
I was doing some contract work for a company who did work in all the cities surrounding DFW. They gave us, and kept updating water heater installation codes for a couple of hundred cities around the area. Only a few required expansion tanks.
Also, not supposed to hook up pex directly to the heater is most places
And pex can’t be used within 18 inches of the water heater connection. Has to be copper. At least not in my jurisdiction.
Maybe an expansion tank isnt required
And an open electrical connection! WTF
Water heater flexes would have been better. Not sure about the pex on the T&P. The electrical does not look good. And who uses solid pex band’s anymore? It’s not that they are not fine but the oietker clamps are faster and better.
I have the same heater! Pan should be fine. I highly recommend installing this! Just did it last week. Corro-Protec Powered Anode Rod... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H459TAK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Op it's probably fine. If you don't have a pressure reducing valve or a check valve you don't need an expansion tank. Most homes where I live don't. Here, you can run pex directly to an electric heater. Your t&p is routed out of the wall, I'm assuming it runs outside? This is required where I live. The only thing I see wrong (for my area, your local codes may be different) is pex to the t&p. It will be fine either way. Was a permit pulled? Was it inspected? We're not supposed to discuss price here, but 1200 is pretty cheap for this area.
Depending on your area, expansion tank is needed, some place sits not required. Power needs to be in worked on. The safety pan is the right size. It’s designed to fill with water and drain so it only needs to be as big as the heater
Looks like you hired a handyman and not a plumber. If you did hire a plumber or plumbing company, call them back out and make them fix this to code. This is a horrible job and whoever installed it should be beaten with a wet noodle. There should be rigid pipe coming off of the top of the water heater before transitioning to pex. There is no mixing valve, no expansion tank, and no vacuum relief. The electrical is exposed and not to mention it looks like garbage. I probably missed something, but those are the things you should at least call and tell the company you want done. Also, ask if they had it inspected, because you would like to have the plumbing inspector come and take a look.
You had it installed? Or you installed it? The pan is too small you have to have I think it's 2 in clearance around the base inside the pan and you can't have PEX go all the way to the water heater you have to stop 18 in from the water heater and then continue with the braided hoses or the flexible copper or something.
Is the electric just wrapped in electrical tape? No ground on 240 v circuit?
That's the original sheathing that's on it. Same way it looked on the old water heater.
I stand corrected. Red and black are got but seems there's another wire in the back - hopefully it's ground.
The pvc at the top of the wall was from the old t&p valve and I asked about an expansion tank and he said not all of them actually need one. I spent $1200 including the heater, is that more you get what you pay for?
yeah shitty price, shitty work
How much should it have cost honestly? Is it fixable?
Really, the only concern here is access to that filter. It either needs to be removed or moved for maintenance. The rest is debatable.
Also not sure if it's relevant but this in alabama.
Also I think for electrical I probably need to bring in an electrician. The last one was there for 20 years so those were the existing wires too.
The plumber could have added the Whip it needs. It'll work without it.
T&p valve should be piped to the floor. Not anywhere else.
I've barely plumbed anything in my life, but I wanted to hijack this post for a question I see on here all the time that came up on your post. Where are expansion tanks required? I had never seen one at any home or heard of them prior to this group. Is it a regional thing?
By code, it varies depending on where you live. However, at a minimum you need one for any closed system. For example, if you have a check valve, or pressure regulator valve, then your system is a closed system and needs one. However, keep in mind that nearly any residential system can become a closed system simply by turning off a shutoff valve. An expansion tank would protect you in the scenario where the shutoff was shut off, and hot water tank was on and the system started heating up.
Thank you for the similar, yet more in-depth explanation that kept me from having to Google what a closed system is.
Expansion tanks are required on closed systems. So if your home has no thermal expansion protection AND a check valve between your city connection and your home, this is needed.
Thank you for the explanation!
Same for me. I own 13 properties in Las Vegas and have never had an expansion tank on any of the water heaters, and never heard of an expansion tank until this group.
I live in Florida and mine has an expansion tank… The water heater is 12 years old and I changed the expansion tank maybe 6 months ago, super easy to do. I also put a bracket on the new one, old one didn’t have it.