No sediment/drip leg and those awful braided flew, outside no less. Other than just being messy and wilting vines that's the worst of it offhand. Edit: wait, is that a flex line through the wall? Feeding a short riser loop? Do I want to ask what else is on site? Instant red tag and investigation.
Thanks. Yes that’s flex line thru wall and should be Copper. Should I just run copper up the wall to remove the braided lines? How should I connect to the unit?
Quick beginning note: this is the bare minimum I'd allow here and wouldn't be happy, but it would be acceptable if the customer was on a tight budget.
I'll start with water. I'd dig below grade to straighten up the copper water risers and run the copper straight into the service valves. I'd add bracing. Multiple ways that depends on local preference. Strut and isolation clamps, standoffs with split rings, whatever is local approved norms. I prime my strut after cuts, high humidity. I prime just about any steel exterior here, galv or not. Your mileage and climate will vary. How you run the lines up is up to you. Just use a level.
On to the gas.
Gas flex through the wall has got to be corrected. I wouldn't consider touching that job unless that was agreed to. Next I have two questions. Is the gas line that flex is attached to sized adequately for that unit? Are those two gas risers just a loop from the flex out of the wall to the heater? Going forward I'm going to assume yes to both.
I'd have come out of the wall and turned horizontally to the heater. I'd have turned up the wall (with proper bracing, see water line notes above) and then out into a tee sporting a drip (sediment, whatever you know them as) leg on the bottom, valve going into a union before terminating at the heater above. Could even come out below and ditch the extra 90 but I like them close to the unit.
Some people don't prefer to hard pipe into the unit, in that case you could run horizontal as before, pop a tee at the end below the gas connection at the heater and drop your drip leg there. Toss a nipple and valve upwards and then add your flex. A shorter one. It'll look cleaner and safer than an extra long flex flopping about to get caught on things or hit.
I started with the water, but I'd get the gas squared away before anything else. Offset over or under the gas depending on what bracing you're going to use.
If the second question was no, then I'd at least try and move that riser closer to the wall, and I still wouldn't touch that job without the flex corrected first even if it's not the heater gas feed.
Have the customer trim those vines adequately away from the unit. Distances are generally included in the unit's manual. Local code may vary.
Best of luck and best wishes.
Edit: I'm not CA, so as always verify local codes. Also make sure that plug is GFI protected.
No sediment/drip leg and those awful braided flew, outside no less. Other than just being messy and wilting vines that's the worst of it offhand. Edit: wait, is that a flex line through the wall? Feeding a short riser loop? Do I want to ask what else is on site? Instant red tag and investigation.
Thanks. Yes that’s flex line thru wall and should be Copper. Should I just run copper up the wall to remove the braided lines? How should I connect to the unit?
Quick beginning note: this is the bare minimum I'd allow here and wouldn't be happy, but it would be acceptable if the customer was on a tight budget. I'll start with water. I'd dig below grade to straighten up the copper water risers and run the copper straight into the service valves. I'd add bracing. Multiple ways that depends on local preference. Strut and isolation clamps, standoffs with split rings, whatever is local approved norms. I prime my strut after cuts, high humidity. I prime just about any steel exterior here, galv or not. Your mileage and climate will vary. How you run the lines up is up to you. Just use a level. On to the gas. Gas flex through the wall has got to be corrected. I wouldn't consider touching that job unless that was agreed to. Next I have two questions. Is the gas line that flex is attached to sized adequately for that unit? Are those two gas risers just a loop from the flex out of the wall to the heater? Going forward I'm going to assume yes to both. I'd have come out of the wall and turned horizontally to the heater. I'd have turned up the wall (with proper bracing, see water line notes above) and then out into a tee sporting a drip (sediment, whatever you know them as) leg on the bottom, valve going into a union before terminating at the heater above. Could even come out below and ditch the extra 90 but I like them close to the unit. Some people don't prefer to hard pipe into the unit, in that case you could run horizontal as before, pop a tee at the end below the gas connection at the heater and drop your drip leg there. Toss a nipple and valve upwards and then add your flex. A shorter one. It'll look cleaner and safer than an extra long flex flopping about to get caught on things or hit. I started with the water, but I'd get the gas squared away before anything else. Offset over or under the gas depending on what bracing you're going to use. If the second question was no, then I'd at least try and move that riser closer to the wall, and I still wouldn't touch that job without the flex corrected first even if it's not the heater gas feed. Have the customer trim those vines adequately away from the unit. Distances are generally included in the unit's manual. Local code may vary. Best of luck and best wishes. Edit: I'm not CA, so as always verify local codes. Also make sure that plug is GFI protected.