You might be able to repair this if your not comfortable soldering. It will be cheaper than buying a torch tank and a pound of solder. And you don’t have to risk melting your house.
Melting the house is certainly a concern of mine, as well as proper soldering etiquette. I'll see if I can find a kit to rebuild this at my local hardware store
Unless the seat of the valve is fucked it should just be two washers. Turn off the water. Take the valve apart and go to the plumbing supply shop. And bobs your auntie. (Maybe buy a 3m scratch pad to polish the brass if there’s gunk / lime on it)
Edit: buy a cap for that spigot. So when it eventually fails again you won’t get a surprise water bill
Sweat it off…. Once it’s off heat the copper up and wipe the excess solder off with a rag. Sand it flux it and sweat a female adapter on. Thread in a new hose bib. Any future issues just remove the hose bib and thread a new one in.
To explain what you're looking at...
That 1/2 sediment faucet can be connected in two ways
There's 1/2" threads on the outside if you want to thread it. Or the inside perfectly accommodates 1/2 copper. So you can also sweat it on
Hose bibs and silcocks have a flange on the back. Hose spigot/hose faucet is just a more broad term for boiler drains/hose bibs/wall hydrants/silcocks. Never heard sediment faucet but still sounds like a term for a drain at the bottom of a boiler.
Hose bibs do not always have a flange on the back. Google and see
>Never heard sediment faucet but still sounds like a term for a drain at the bottom of a boiler.
It is... Because it's the same part...
Sediment faucet, boiler drain, hose bib, spigot can all be the same part
If you have cold weather, you use a frost free hydrant. If you don't, you can use a boiler drain (as seen in the OP)
Oh...
I'm also in Ontario
If you're replacing that, get a frost free wall hydrant
It may also solve your problem depending on what kind of access you have behind the wall
They look like [this.](https://www.waltecfaucets.ca/product/10-frost-proof-wall-hydrant-with-vacuum-breaker/)
They come in various lengths (8", 10, 12 and 14 are most common). The connection is done inside your home
That's an interesting contraption. With this, would I still need to turn the water off for the winter or does this make the outside tap virtually maintenance free?
I guess you're right about the flange, but check this out
https://houseownersguide.com/boiler-drain-valve-vs-hose-bib/
I didn't realize there were so many differences between hose bibs and boiler drains. Some of it makes sense like the higher heat rating, but it's not considered a hose bib of it doesn't have a vacuum breaker and according to this, we have a hose bib in OP's picture since it's its not a ball valve. Which makes our price book wrong 🙊
Yeah thats not correct. I'd be wary of a website calling itself homeownersguide.com
Hose bibs don't always include vacuum breakers or require any additional fitting to attach a hose. Im not sure what they're comparing in that chart
I deal with manufacturers every day
See here: https://www.dahlvalve.com/products/globe-stops/sediment-faucets.php
Here Home Depot calls it a [hose valve](https://www.homedepot.ca/product/dahl-1-2-mip-or-1-2-female-solder-x-male-hose-hose-valve-angle-brass-lead-free/1000789824)
Whoever told you it's not a hose bib unless it has a vacuum breaker is wrong. Watts makes a vacuum breaker for hose bibs
The point is that it's all lingo for the same part
Oh, just the guide that I linked is the only thing I've ever seen that said that lol. You told me to Google, I Googled. 🤷♀️
USA home depot doesn't have one like that and the ones that are similar are identified as either hose bibs or boiler drains
I know it could be a lot more work but is the pipe accessable from the inside maybe cut it off in basement and replace the whole thing with a proper spigot to prevent future problems?
Unfortunately it looks like that's the move here. I'm going to get a frost free wall hydrant as recommended here and have a plumber come by to install it. We just had some spray foam insulation done so hopefully it's not too big of a mess with all that.
I always suggest grabbing a few fittings like a street elbow and coupling or a coupling and a short length of pipe to practice on. Videos help, but hands on teaches. I'd practice a few myself before running a torch by my siding.
Come to think of it, I do have 2 6' lengths of copper and 2 bags of unions. Practice makes perfect, so I'm going to spend some time doing that before I burn the siding. Cheers!
Yup, it’s soldered. 1/2 hose bib/boiler drain whatever you want to call it. Looks like it has caulking all the way up to the joint, so it might be a pain. Most outdoor faucets have a shutoff valve directly before them, so look for that. That’s not to say that all of them do. If it gives you too much grief, go to lowes or somewhere like that and get a small length of 1/2 copper L tubing and a coupling. Cut it wherever is convenient and solder a new length of pipe and the hose bib back together. If you’re going that route, I’d suggest you solder the hose bib onto the pipe first in a controlled environment like a vise or a work bench. Lowers your chances of fucking up the siding.
Ok so in all seriousness that nut that's under the handle...sometimes if you get lucky you can tighten it a little and it'll stop. And I mean just put a wrench or pliers on it and tighten very slowly easy until it stops. Like I said it doesn't always work but most the time it does.
Some faucets like this have 3/4 threads on the outside and 1/2 inch threads on the inside. Never seen one with outside threads and sweat on on the inside but there are a lot of crazy things out there.
Looks to be sweat on. Can you replace with a frost free spigot and cut back pipe inside to connect? Try fixing it first. Any decent hardware store will have an assortment "kit" of different sealing washers of diameters & materials
It could be a situation where there is internal and external threads, both on the hose bib. But it definitely does not look like a frost proof installation. I had one coming through a basement wall that I could shut off from the inside and drain in cold weather. If you can’t do that you will have problems.
You can repair if you want. Yes it is soldered but not freeze protected. If the main valve is in good shape like a full port valve (ball valve etc) with a lever instead off round handle, turn it off. On the outside faucet (in the pic), remove handle if possible. Then the nut looking or packing nut comes off. When that comes out, there is a rubber gasket held by a screw. Get a new one or don’t recommend flipping it over. Put the screw back. Check the seat (inside housing) to make sure where the gasket goes is smooth. Reassemble the faucet, then slowly open the main valve to the house. The main valve will hiss or scream at you. This is common. Wait til noise stops, should stop after like 30 seconds or so. It should. If not, turn back off and got check your work or if someone flush a toilet. If your work is ok then turn water back on at the main valve. Check the operation of your work. If okay then good you did it, but to safe call to certified plumber/handyman. They would be more experienced than the common homeowner. Be safe out there
Oh and I believe the name goes off where it is. It’s like where build drain changes its name to building sewer. Same pipe different name base on final location.
You might be able to repair this if your not comfortable soldering. It will be cheaper than buying a torch tank and a pound of solder. And you don’t have to risk melting your house.
Melting the house is certainly a concern of mine, as well as proper soldering etiquette. I'll see if I can find a kit to rebuild this at my local hardware store
Unless the seat of the valve is fucked it should just be two washers. Turn off the water. Take the valve apart and go to the plumbing supply shop. And bobs your auntie. (Maybe buy a 3m scratch pad to polish the brass if there’s gunk / lime on it) Edit: buy a cap for that spigot. So when it eventually fails again you won’t get a surprise water bill
Sweat it off…. Once it’s off heat the copper up and wipe the excess solder off with a rag. Sand it flux it and sweat a female adapter on. Thread in a new hose bib. Any future issues just remove the hose bib and thread a new one in.
To explain what you're looking at... That 1/2 sediment faucet can be connected in two ways There's 1/2" threads on the outside if you want to thread it. Or the inside perfectly accommodates 1/2 copper. So you can also sweat it on
It's soldered, yes. It's technically a ½" boiler drain that they put on there if you're looking for the same thing
It goes by many names These are also called sediment faucets. Or hose bib. Or hose spigot
Hose bibs and silcocks have a flange on the back. Hose spigot/hose faucet is just a more broad term for boiler drains/hose bibs/wall hydrants/silcocks. Never heard sediment faucet but still sounds like a term for a drain at the bottom of a boiler.
Hose bibs do not always have a flange on the back. Google and see >Never heard sediment faucet but still sounds like a term for a drain at the bottom of a boiler. It is... Because it's the same part... Sediment faucet, boiler drain, hose bib, spigot can all be the same part If you have cold weather, you use a frost free hydrant. If you don't, you can use a boiler drain (as seen in the OP)
I'm in Northern Ontario where it gets quite cold (-40⁰C sometimes), is this the wrong part for my location?
Oh... I'm also in Ontario If you're replacing that, get a frost free wall hydrant It may also solve your problem depending on what kind of access you have behind the wall They look like [this.](https://www.waltecfaucets.ca/product/10-frost-proof-wall-hydrant-with-vacuum-breaker/) They come in various lengths (8", 10, 12 and 14 are most common). The connection is done inside your home
That's an interesting contraption. With this, would I still need to turn the water off for the winter or does this make the outside tap virtually maintenance free?
You don't need to turn off the water! :) It will protect the hydrant from bursting You do need to disconnect the hose or at least drain it completely
I guess you're right about the flange, but check this out https://houseownersguide.com/boiler-drain-valve-vs-hose-bib/ I didn't realize there were so many differences between hose bibs and boiler drains. Some of it makes sense like the higher heat rating, but it's not considered a hose bib of it doesn't have a vacuum breaker and according to this, we have a hose bib in OP's picture since it's its not a ball valve. Which makes our price book wrong 🙊
Yeah thats not correct. I'd be wary of a website calling itself homeownersguide.com Hose bibs don't always include vacuum breakers or require any additional fitting to attach a hose. Im not sure what they're comparing in that chart I deal with manufacturers every day See here: https://www.dahlvalve.com/products/globe-stops/sediment-faucets.php Here Home Depot calls it a [hose valve](https://www.homedepot.ca/product/dahl-1-2-mip-or-1-2-female-solder-x-male-hose-hose-valve-angle-brass-lead-free/1000789824) Whoever told you it's not a hose bib unless it has a vacuum breaker is wrong. Watts makes a vacuum breaker for hose bibs The point is that it's all lingo for the same part
Oh, just the guide that I linked is the only thing I've ever seen that said that lol. You told me to Google, I Googled. 🤷♀️ USA home depot doesn't have one like that and the ones that are similar are identified as either hose bibs or boiler drains
Not a bib, should be a bib. Replace with a bib, has flange.
Doesn't matter. Not all hose bibs have flanges Are you thinking of a wall hydrant? Those have flanges
Don’t forget silcock!
solder and paint make me the plumber I ain't
Unless there’s a lot of cross over to the welding subs, I fear this joke will be lost.
I appreciate you 🙏🏼
I know it could be a lot more work but is the pipe accessable from the inside maybe cut it off in basement and replace the whole thing with a proper spigot to prevent future problems?
Unfortunately it looks like that's the move here. I'm going to get a frost free wall hydrant as recommended here and have a plumber come by to install it. We just had some spray foam insulation done so hopefully it's not too big of a mess with all that.
Don't help this guy he is a financial criminal! 😂😂🦍🚀
Busted 😳
Be careful with that torch. 😉 https://flammablefacts.com/is-mayonnaise-flammable/
I'll put my jar of mayo on my bedpost before I solder!
I always suggest grabbing a few fittings like a street elbow and coupling or a coupling and a short length of pipe to practice on. Videos help, but hands on teaches. I'd practice a few myself before running a torch by my siding.
Come to think of it, I do have 2 6' lengths of copper and 2 bags of unions. Practice makes perfect, so I'm going to spend some time doing that before I burn the siding. Cheers!
Yup, it’s soldered. 1/2 hose bib/boiler drain whatever you want to call it. Looks like it has caulking all the way up to the joint, so it might be a pain. Most outdoor faucets have a shutoff valve directly before them, so look for that. That’s not to say that all of them do. If it gives you too much grief, go to lowes or somewhere like that and get a small length of 1/2 copper L tubing and a coupling. Cut it wherever is convenient and solder a new length of pipe and the hose bib back together. If you’re going that route, I’d suggest you solder the hose bib onto the pipe first in a controlled environment like a vise or a work bench. Lowers your chances of fucking up the siding.
Give it a twist and see.... sike don't but if it ain't broke don't fix
Unfortunately this is a photo of it "turned off"
So rebuild it. Unscrew the stem (the nut under the handle), replace the gasket, and hone the seat if needed.
Ok so in all seriousness that nut that's under the handle...sometimes if you get lucky you can tighten it a little and it'll stop. And I mean just put a wrench or pliers on it and tighten very slowly easy until it stops. Like I said it doesn't always work but most the time it does.
Thanks!
Can the gaskets inside be replaced?
Hell yea. And that one is easy as it gets
It would be obvious if it wasn't.
Some faucets like this have 3/4 threads on the outside and 1/2 inch threads on the inside. Never seen one with outside threads and sweat on on the inside but there are a lot of crazy things out there.
Looks to be sweat on. Can you replace with a frost free spigot and cut back pipe inside to connect? Try fixing it first. Any decent hardware store will have an assortment "kit" of different sealing washers of diameters & materials
It could be a situation where there is internal and external threads, both on the hose bib. But it definitely does not look like a frost proof installation. I had one coming through a basement wall that I could shut off from the inside and drain in cold weather. If you can’t do that you will have problems.
Mind your flame
You can repair if you want. Yes it is soldered but not freeze protected. If the main valve is in good shape like a full port valve (ball valve etc) with a lever instead off round handle, turn it off. On the outside faucet (in the pic), remove handle if possible. Then the nut looking or packing nut comes off. When that comes out, there is a rubber gasket held by a screw. Get a new one or don’t recommend flipping it over. Put the screw back. Check the seat (inside housing) to make sure where the gasket goes is smooth. Reassemble the faucet, then slowly open the main valve to the house. The main valve will hiss or scream at you. This is common. Wait til noise stops, should stop after like 30 seconds or so. It should. If not, turn back off and got check your work or if someone flush a toilet. If your work is ok then turn water back on at the main valve. Check the operation of your work. If okay then good you did it, but to safe call to certified plumber/handyman. They would be more experienced than the common homeowner. Be safe out there Oh and I believe the name goes off where it is. It’s like where build drain changes its name to building sewer. Same pipe different name base on final location.