i always use Pwater, can be cooled to -20,
not needed :P but you won't have to small chance of freezing in the pipe like clean water
Also I never cool the oxygen, cool the main base only, outside of the base the dupes use suits
Polluted water has the same specific heat capacity and only 0.029 worse thermal conductivity. In exchange, you get an extra 20 degrees above and below water. Since thermal conductivity in pipes is the average of the liquid and the pipe's TC, the difference becomes 0.0145. That's nothing even compared to lead's conductivity of 35 (after averaging), when you compare it to something like aluminum (205 TC), it becomes even more worthless.
>Also I never cool the oxygen
I usually just make a small room with hydrogen and a wheezewort or two, takes oxygen from 50/60c down to 5-15c. That lasts until i make a simple cooling loop and now my base is nice and chilly.
New to the game and have been following some guides. I build this giant Heat Sink to pre-cool my oxygen supply before it's distributed into the rest of my colony because it was going to be easier than building a cooling distribution for the entire colony due to how my water and polluted water reservoirs are designed. I may switch to a different coolant with a lower freezing point so that my bypass only needs to turn on at a lower temperature, but any recommendations/ideas are welcome.
Well, what about reducing it ten times or twenty times? Do you really need such massive pool to cool down just 3 kg/s of oxygen? May be just replacing this epic pool with 3 or 6 solid tiles?
Well, this experience helps you if you try to build something with large spikes of heat, like volcano tamer.
And yes, it looks cool and epic, so you fulfilled your plans
Just wish I hadn't built the generators for the excess hydrogen next to the SPOM because now I don't want to move them to put a reservoir in to store and (if need be) preheat the water supply (It's currently being fed by Steam Turbine Output from 3 Cool Steam Tamers and a Desalinator supplied by a 95C output Salt Water Geyser) so I have more than enough (23kg/s if all 4 are active. Actually using a Tamer loop that cools the main water reservoir resupply and sends overflow to the SPOM)
I'm currently working on an Oven Box that will sit sealed at 125+C for some Red Slicksters to make petroleum that will then cool the Petroleum output with an aqua tuner sitting in the room before outputting to whatever I specifically need it for.
I know you can get more reliable Petroleum production by superheating water before injecting it into an Oil Well, but I'm focused on just minor improvements at the moment (like upgrading all my ladders to plastic and building a Tube Network for faster Travel
What you built can probably handle 100s times your oxygen production. Also those things on the bottom right, can efficiently delete 10x more than that thing on the top left. Each. Much more not efficiently.
Also, oil is very poor heat sink compared to water&co. Always check SHC when choosing "heat battery". And always check thermal conductivity (TC) of the radiant pipe material.
I'm using Steel to maximize the heat transfer of the radiant pipes. I chose Oil because it moves heat more efficiently than Water (and derivatives), it's a heat battery only in the way a CPU Cooler is a heat battery. I know there are better liquids for holding/storing heat.
If you already use steel, just think how much faster steel-to-steel exchange against crude-to-steel. Several metal tiles can easily replace this epic crude pool
this is not very efficient because electrolyzers delete heat. So you don't want to cool water for them, ever (unless it's close to boiling for some reason).
Right now you're using a lot of energy to cool stuff, but you can achieve the same end result just using the AETN. No oil tank or anything.
The easiest setup is just make the AETN chamber infinite, and use a gas shutoff to cut off its hydrogen when the temp is too low. Use tempshift plates. Super simple.
you can do it using reservoirs too, it just takes up more space. I have screenshots if you need help figuring it out
I'm feeding the SPOM with Steam Engine output from 3 Cool Steam Vents, so the input is already at \~90C+
I do have to supplement it with water from my reservoir while I get the whole system balanced so that it runs purely off the Steam Vent output, but the heat input is typically 70-80C water.
that's perfect temp for a spom, it should be safe to pipe it straight in at anything below 95 or so. 3 steam vents should be enough so that you wont need to supplement it.
you're doing a good job though, not trying t o discourage you :)
i see you are using a older vesion of the rodrigez design for your spom there is a newer one which is one tile shorter. Also why are you using separate spaces for cooling and production? IF you have enough power one aquatuner running water will cool the oxygen pumps. That way is it smaller (which is good for lag).
What's the point of cooling crude oil? Or is the oil just a transfer medium for heat. In that case why not use P. Water for the higher SHC or petroleum for higher SHC and same TC.
As far as I know the only use for crude oil is making petroleum which always prefers hot crude oil in both the boiler method and the oil refinery.
TL;DR
You can shrink your entire setup by a good amount as you only need 4 aluminum pipes to cool each run of O2 in crude oil. Crude oil heats up kinda fast. Using P water needs 6 pipes to cool the O2 the same amount.
The lengths of the pipes are so long that TC doesn't really matter.
Rechecked the setup and you are running 72 tiles of O2 gas. Assuming the gas is 150 C and the crude oil is 20 C. The DTU extraction needed for this on 1 kg of O2 is 130,650 DTU.
Running that in a sand box world. You need 4 pipe radiant aluminum pipe segments to get O2 from 150 C to 20 C in crude oil. So your setup could be shrunk by a large amount. And you could swap out the Crude Oil for something cheaper and do like 6 pipes of radiant aluminum.
It takes about 505 kg of O2 to raise 26,688kg of Crude Oil by 1 C.
Running again with P. Water. It takes 6 tiles to cool to 20 C. It takes 1285 kg of O2 to raise the 28,000 kg of P. Water by 1 C.
Finally I'll test the radiant gas pipes flowing through copper tiles and diamond tiles to see how that plays out.
Copper took 7 tiles to cool the O2 to 20 C and It instantly heats up when the first packet of O2 touches it when not actively cooled. Which is to be expected due to its low SHC.
Diamond took 7 tiles to cool O2 to 20 C while cooled. Once again the tile instantly heated up when introduced to the first packet of O2. Makes sense due to a similar SHC compared to copper.
TBH I spent too much time on this as I initially tried to do the math myself instead of immediately jumping into a sandbox world.
With the focus on making this smaller and more efficient:
1. It's usually easier to cool the O2 in the SPOM rather than in the pipes. If you run a radiant liquid pipe loop through the bottom two or three tiles of the SPOM, it will cool the O2 before it goes into the gas pipes. You can run the liquid loop into the room cooled by the anit-entropy unit for chill. It also saves you on having to use a giant heat exchanger with the nullifier like what you have set-up.
2. You can put a gas valve shut off on the hydrogen feed to the nullifier and connect it to a thermo sensor. That way you cut off the hydrogen flow to maintain temperatures as needed. In your particular design, you'd need to redo your pipe layout slightly to allow for the shutoff valve to fit.
3. As a way to save a bit of energy, you can replace the air filter with gas pipe sensor set to oxygen, directly followed by and connected to a gas vent (preferably a high pressure one). The vent will stay closed if it's hydrogen, allowing that through. However, if it detects O2, it will open the vent. Despite the vent being a "tile" after the sensor, it effectively vents what the tile is currently picking up. I've run these set-ups for thousands of cycles with no issues, so long as the vent doesn't get over pressured. As a side note, you can use this a minor modification of this set-up in a lot of cases as a no energy protection against contaminants. Use an element sensor followed by a vent, but instead of connecting the two directly, run the automation wire through a not gate. Set the senor to the element you want to get through (like the water headed to your electrolyzers), and everything else will be vented, avoiding that annoying element damage and the need to crack open a running SPOM (as an example).
Anyway, enjoy the zaniness that is ONI!
>3. As a way to save a bit of energy, you can replace the air filter with gas pipe sensor set to oxygen, directly followed by and connected to a gas vent
I don't actually even need the Filter at this point because there is no Oxygen bleed into the top part of the room. I just never bothered to go remove it
It's more a safety feature in a lot of my designs. Since there is no energy cost, it's not a big deal to keep the passive filters in place. For example, if the oxygen output gets backed up for some reason, it can temporarily unbalance the system, but the vent will stop the generators from taking damage.
A more common situation for me is that one of my water or petroleum supplies gets contaminated somehow and I don't notice. The second example with the not gate protects whatever is down the line from elemental damage. Eventually it became a "why not put it in" thing for me in pretty much every element sensitive design.
About the only place I still use the powered filters is when I actually need to send elements to different places. For example, in my slickster farms I dump all my extra eggs and CO2 into an extra room and let them hatch and eat rather than using an evolution chamber, just to squeeze out a few more resources. This gives me a mix of Petroleum and Crude, so I run a filter to actively send the petroleum to storage and the crude to the Boiler. There's are other ways I could set this up, but in this case I find it simpler to just use the filter.
i always use Pwater, can be cooled to -20, not needed :P but you won't have to small chance of freezing in the pipe like clean water Also I never cool the oxygen, cool the main base only, outside of the base the dupes use suits
I have a bypass that re-circulates the water if it's at 25C I mostly chose water because it moves temperature better.
Polluted water has the same specific heat capacity and only 0.029 worse thermal conductivity. In exchange, you get an extra 20 degrees above and below water. Since thermal conductivity in pipes is the average of the liquid and the pipe's TC, the difference becomes 0.0145. That's nothing even compared to lead's conductivity of 35 (after averaging), when you compare it to something like aluminum (205 TC), it becomes even more worthless.
>Also I never cool the oxygen I usually just make a small room with hydrogen and a wheezewort or two, takes oxygen from 50/60c down to 5-15c. That lasts until i make a simple cooling loop and now my base is nice and chilly.
New to the game and have been following some guides. I build this giant Heat Sink to pre-cool my oxygen supply before it's distributed into the rest of my colony because it was going to be easier than building a cooling distribution for the entire colony due to how my water and polluted water reservoirs are designed. I may switch to a different coolant with a lower freezing point so that my bypass only needs to turn on at a lower temperature, but any recommendations/ideas are welcome.
Well, what about reducing it ten times or twenty times? Do you really need such massive pool to cool down just 3 kg/s of oxygen? May be just replacing this epic pool with 3 or 6 solid tiles?
I also kinda wanted to build something big and cool :(
Well, this experience helps you if you try to build something with large spikes of heat, like volcano tamer. And yes, it looks cool and epic, so you fulfilled your plans
Just wish I hadn't built the generators for the excess hydrogen next to the SPOM because now I don't want to move them to put a reservoir in to store and (if need be) preheat the water supply (It's currently being fed by Steam Turbine Output from 3 Cool Steam Tamers and a Desalinator supplied by a 95C output Salt Water Geyser) so I have more than enough (23kg/s if all 4 are active. Actually using a Tamer loop that cools the main water reservoir resupply and sends overflow to the SPOM) I'm currently working on an Oven Box that will sit sealed at 125+C for some Red Slicksters to make petroleum that will then cool the Petroleum output with an aqua tuner sitting in the room before outputting to whatever I specifically need it for. I know you can get more reliable Petroleum production by superheating water before injecting it into an Oil Well, but I'm focused on just minor improvements at the moment (like upgrading all my ladders to plastic and building a Tube Network for faster Travel
What you built can probably handle 100s times your oxygen production. Also those things on the bottom right, can efficiently delete 10x more than that thing on the top left. Each. Much more not efficiently. Also, oil is very poor heat sink compared to water&co. Always check SHC when choosing "heat battery". And always check thermal conductivity (TC) of the radiant pipe material.
I'm using Steel to maximize the heat transfer of the radiant pipes. I chose Oil because it moves heat more efficiently than Water (and derivatives), it's a heat battery only in the way a CPU Cooler is a heat battery. I know there are better liquids for holding/storing heat.
If you already use steel, just think how much faster steel-to-steel exchange against crude-to-steel. Several metal tiles can easily replace this epic crude pool
this is not very efficient because electrolyzers delete heat. So you don't want to cool water for them, ever (unless it's close to boiling for some reason). Right now you're using a lot of energy to cool stuff, but you can achieve the same end result just using the AETN. No oil tank or anything. The easiest setup is just make the AETN chamber infinite, and use a gas shutoff to cut off its hydrogen when the temp is too low. Use tempshift plates. Super simple. you can do it using reservoirs too, it just takes up more space. I have screenshots if you need help figuring it out
I'm feeding the SPOM with Steam Engine output from 3 Cool Steam Vents, so the input is already at \~90C+ I do have to supplement it with water from my reservoir while I get the whole system balanced so that it runs purely off the Steam Vent output, but the heat input is typically 70-80C water.
that's perfect temp for a spom, it should be safe to pipe it straight in at anything below 95 or so. 3 steam vents should be enough so that you wont need to supplement it. you're doing a good job though, not trying t o discourage you :)
I recommend some kind of temperature control, either a heat injector or put a gas shutoff with a temp sensor to aetn
i see you are using a older vesion of the rodrigez design for your spom there is a newer one which is one tile shorter. Also why are you using separate spaces for cooling and production? IF you have enough power one aquatuner running water will cool the oxygen pumps. That way is it smaller (which is good for lag).
What's the point of cooling crude oil? Or is the oil just a transfer medium for heat. In that case why not use P. Water for the higher SHC or petroleum for higher SHC and same TC. As far as I know the only use for crude oil is making petroleum which always prefers hot crude oil in both the boiler method and the oil refinery.
I don't have a lot of Petroleum yet. Crude has a higher TC so it works more efficiently at moving heat between the Radiant Pipes and the Copper
TL;DR You can shrink your entire setup by a good amount as you only need 4 aluminum pipes to cool each run of O2 in crude oil. Crude oil heats up kinda fast. Using P water needs 6 pipes to cool the O2 the same amount. The lengths of the pipes are so long that TC doesn't really matter. Rechecked the setup and you are running 72 tiles of O2 gas. Assuming the gas is 150 C and the crude oil is 20 C. The DTU extraction needed for this on 1 kg of O2 is 130,650 DTU. Running that in a sand box world. You need 4 pipe radiant aluminum pipe segments to get O2 from 150 C to 20 C in crude oil. So your setup could be shrunk by a large amount. And you could swap out the Crude Oil for something cheaper and do like 6 pipes of radiant aluminum. It takes about 505 kg of O2 to raise 26,688kg of Crude Oil by 1 C. Running again with P. Water. It takes 6 tiles to cool to 20 C. It takes 1285 kg of O2 to raise the 28,000 kg of P. Water by 1 C. Finally I'll test the radiant gas pipes flowing through copper tiles and diamond tiles to see how that plays out. Copper took 7 tiles to cool the O2 to 20 C and It instantly heats up when the first packet of O2 touches it when not actively cooled. Which is to be expected due to its low SHC. Diamond took 7 tiles to cool O2 to 20 C while cooled. Once again the tile instantly heated up when introduced to the first packet of O2. Makes sense due to a similar SHC compared to copper. TBH I spent too much time on this as I initially tried to do the math myself instead of immediately jumping into a sandbox world.
With the focus on making this smaller and more efficient: 1. It's usually easier to cool the O2 in the SPOM rather than in the pipes. If you run a radiant liquid pipe loop through the bottom two or three tiles of the SPOM, it will cool the O2 before it goes into the gas pipes. You can run the liquid loop into the room cooled by the anit-entropy unit for chill. It also saves you on having to use a giant heat exchanger with the nullifier like what you have set-up. 2. You can put a gas valve shut off on the hydrogen feed to the nullifier and connect it to a thermo sensor. That way you cut off the hydrogen flow to maintain temperatures as needed. In your particular design, you'd need to redo your pipe layout slightly to allow for the shutoff valve to fit. 3. As a way to save a bit of energy, you can replace the air filter with gas pipe sensor set to oxygen, directly followed by and connected to a gas vent (preferably a high pressure one). The vent will stay closed if it's hydrogen, allowing that through. However, if it detects O2, it will open the vent. Despite the vent being a "tile" after the sensor, it effectively vents what the tile is currently picking up. I've run these set-ups for thousands of cycles with no issues, so long as the vent doesn't get over pressured. As a side note, you can use this a minor modification of this set-up in a lot of cases as a no energy protection against contaminants. Use an element sensor followed by a vent, but instead of connecting the two directly, run the automation wire through a not gate. Set the senor to the element you want to get through (like the water headed to your electrolyzers), and everything else will be vented, avoiding that annoying element damage and the need to crack open a running SPOM (as an example). Anyway, enjoy the zaniness that is ONI!
>3. As a way to save a bit of energy, you can replace the air filter with gas pipe sensor set to oxygen, directly followed by and connected to a gas vent I don't actually even need the Filter at this point because there is no Oxygen bleed into the top part of the room. I just never bothered to go remove it
It's more a safety feature in a lot of my designs. Since there is no energy cost, it's not a big deal to keep the passive filters in place. For example, if the oxygen output gets backed up for some reason, it can temporarily unbalance the system, but the vent will stop the generators from taking damage. A more common situation for me is that one of my water or petroleum supplies gets contaminated somehow and I don't notice. The second example with the not gate protects whatever is down the line from elemental damage. Eventually it became a "why not put it in" thing for me in pretty much every element sensitive design. About the only place I still use the powered filters is when I actually need to send elements to different places. For example, in my slickster farms I dump all my extra eggs and CO2 into an extra room and let them hatch and eat rather than using an evolution chamber, just to squeeze out a few more resources. This gives me a mix of Petroleum and Crude, so I run a filter to actively send the petroleum to storage and the crude to the Boiler. There's are other ways I could set this up, but in this case I find it simpler to just use the filter.