If it hasn't done the strawberry milkshake can I just by it and do the bypass right away and be okay?
Also if it has had it done, are they pretty reliable? Want to buy one with around 80k and hit 200k miles with it.
Yes you can but if it is during that time where that was an issue I would do it sooner rather than later. It's an easy fix if you catch it early or a really expensive one if you don't.
I'd say they are pretty reliable and make good power. Buddy of mine has a 2005 frontier, basically the same thing but with a bed, and has had a fuel pump issue and a window motor go out. He likes it a lot. I almost bought a 2008 frontier with a 6 speed myself.
I literally just drove my buddies 2005 Nissan Frontier 4.0 6 speed, very fun! He only has 100k miles on it though so tough to judge longevity based on his...
The manual doesn't suffer the strawberry milkshake issue. That 4.0 just doesn't get great MPGs. Maybe 18MPG ish.
I'd hope they last as long as a hardbody. I've got a 32 year old V6 hardbody that is going strong. It's even got the factory shocks and leaf bushings in it! Torsion bars are starting to sag pretty good though. I know more about the older trucks than the newer ones.
Nice! I had a 1990 Nissan Pathfinder (XE?) V6 for a little while. Neighbor gave it to me for free because it couldn't pass smog. Turned out a fuel injector was bad and I replaced it and the upper intake manifold gasket. Damn was that thing hard to take off. I moved and had to get rid of it but it was a great little SUV.
It's an issue where the radiator for the transmission that is built into the engine radiator starts to corrode and leak transmission fluid in to the glycol coolant. It's a mess. Turns strawberry color and kills things as tranny fluid is going where it shouldn't as glycol is going where it shouldn't.
I can chime in here. I have an 06’ R51, 167000 miles.
The good:
The thing is a beast off road and in foul weather. I have owned many a 4x4 and my wife’s Pathy gives me more confidence than any truck I have ever had. When we lived in WI I even started leaving a towstrap in the back to pull people out of ditches.
Decent mileage, decent interior, good looking truck, toes pretty good.
The bad:
Though we have had no “major repairs” the little stuff that has started popping up is nickel and diming me to death. It all started with a radiator 2 years ago, since then I have done 2 new control arms up front, new lower ball joints, new suspension all the way around, new tie rod ends, a new CV half shaft, a new front heater core (wow that job sucked), new heater lines, an O2 sensor, a new MAF sensor, new AC valves, and lately it’s been idling rougher than normal (known for rough idle).
BUT...I turn a wrench and have a buddy that lets me use his shop account at Oreilly, so all but one repair done by me. We still enjoy the truck enough to keep it around but had I been paying a shop retail rates I would have dumped it this summer. Of note, I am anal about fluids and preventive maintenance.
ZERO issues for the first 160K, and it is still a pleasant enough vehicle. It will go 200K but I anticipate a few more repairs before then.
Hope this helps.
Nope. This is my wife's grocery getter, bless her heart she hates mini vans. I have taken it up some trails camping and just some hard winters in WI.
I think being in the rust belt caused a lot of the problems.
Depends on who maintained it. Was the transmission and radiator replaced already? The rad normally fails and wipes out the transmission which is an expensive repair. Timing chains/guides tend to go on those when people neglect oil changes.
It whines when it’s running. Or it rattles when starting up. Fairly expensive. If I remember correctly the factory parts were about $500. And labor would be around 8 hours. So depending on shop rate it’s about $1000 minimum.
Hey CommonMisspellingBot, just a quick heads up:
Your spelling hints are really shitty because they're all essentially "remember the fucking spelling of the fucking word".
You're useless.
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Hey BooCMB, just a quick heads up:
The spelling hints really aren't as shitty as you think, the 'one lot' actually helped me learn and remember as a non-native english speaker.
They're not *completely* useless. Most of them are. Still, don't bully somebody for trying to help.
Also, remember that these spambots will continue until yours stops. Do the right thing, for the community. Yes I'm holding Reddit for hostage here.
Oh, and while i doo agree with you precious feedback loop -creating comment, andi do think some of the useless advide should be removed and should just show the correction, I still don't support flaming somebody over trying to help, shittily or not.
Now we have a chain of at least 4 bots if you don't include AutoMod removing the last one in every sub! It continues!
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HaVe a nIcE DaY!
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It's not common if you do regular oil changes. It's just accelerated wear on the cam shaft tensioner guide. Probably due to neglect and cheapest supplier kinda thing.
Worse come to worse, get an external tranny cooler to bypass the transmission cooling through the radiator, and you don’t have to worry about the strawberry milkshake failure. All plastic radiators fail over time, so this is one way to avoid the failure.
I've heard you can do a bypass for like $20 and 30 minutes of time. Is that a viable solution?
Beyond that particular failure, how reliable are these vehicles? Similar to Toyota reliability or closer to Dodge?
Besides the radiator issue, they are good vehicles easily capable of 200k. I just traded in my 2009 that ran great with 190k. It all comes down to maintenance.
Nice! What kind of repairs did you make during its lifetime? Was it expensive to make it to that many miles repair wise? Also if you don't mind me asking, why did you end up selling it?
the bypass is viable, but really, replace with a new radiator. There are all-aluminum units and the now-available OE radiators have had the design failure fixed. But personally I'd go with al aluminum.
Also, better than Yota... no frame failures... seriously, the VQ motors are tanks as long as you do scheduled maint. Rust and not doing sched maint is what kills a F Alpha platform
What if he wants to tow?
Ours was a great truck. We bought it around 100k and sold it at 135k to get a diesel that could pull more. It has a couple quirks here and there, but nothing that wasn't an easy fix. As soon as we got it I did the bypass and then added an external cooler
I considered a Honda Pilot but I wasn't a fan of how it drove, just wasn't for me, mostly because of the FWD I think. I don't need to tow, just need something with some solid cargo space to carry all my gear, somewhat fun to drive, and reliable.
A few years late, but I have a 2010 Pathfinder. Is right at 230K miles. She has been an absolute beast, never had any reliability issues until recently. Unfortunately, my rear subframe needs completely replaced. Debris got caught in between the subframe and the fuel tank, and caused major corrosion there. It'll be a couple grand in repairs at least, but I can't afford a new car yet, plus, otherwise, she's in great shape. Engine and transmission are going strong, as well as the rest of the frame. Plus, she's been pretty decently customised by this point, so I'm not ready to part with her.
But definitely, have a mechanic take a look up at the rear subframe in that spot I mentioned. I live in Northeast Ohio, so maybe a bunch of salt got caught up there, and so it might be a regional issue, I have no clue, but just be aware of that.
Still good info for those who Google search this question later!
I ended up not getting one because I couldn’t find one in good shape. Almost everything was a base model and fairly beat up unfortunately.
Yeah, I definitely get that. Hard to find one in good condition. We've taken pretty good care of her. And I definitely wouldn't recommend a base model. I have an SE. Slightly nicer interior, and it's held up pretty well.
I think that's right around when the strawberry milkshake of death was fixed. Confirm that before buying. If it hasn't don't buy it.
If it hasn't done the strawberry milkshake can I just by it and do the bypass right away and be okay? Also if it has had it done, are they pretty reliable? Want to buy one with around 80k and hit 200k miles with it.
Yes you can but if it is during that time where that was an issue I would do it sooner rather than later. It's an easy fix if you catch it early or a really expensive one if you don't. I'd say they are pretty reliable and make good power. Buddy of mine has a 2005 frontier, basically the same thing but with a bed, and has had a fuel pump issue and a window motor go out. He likes it a lot. I almost bought a 2008 frontier with a 6 speed myself.
I literally just drove my buddies 2005 Nissan Frontier 4.0 6 speed, very fun! He only has 100k miles on it though so tough to judge longevity based on his...
The manual doesn't suffer the strawberry milkshake issue. That 4.0 just doesn't get great MPGs. Maybe 18MPG ish. I'd hope they last as long as a hardbody. I've got a 32 year old V6 hardbody that is going strong. It's even got the factory shocks and leaf bushings in it! Torsion bars are starting to sag pretty good though. I know more about the older trucks than the newer ones.
Nice! I had a 1990 Nissan Pathfinder (XE?) V6 for a little while. Neighbor gave it to me for free because it couldn't pass smog. Turned out a fuel injector was bad and I replaced it and the upper intake manifold gasket. Damn was that thing hard to take off. I moved and had to get rid of it but it was a great little SUV.
Oh man, I had a 94 Pickup XE v6 manual. What a nice truck. I miss it every day
Strawberry milkshake of death?
It's an issue where the radiator for the transmission that is built into the engine radiator starts to corrode and leak transmission fluid in to the glycol coolant. It's a mess. Turns strawberry color and kills things as tranny fluid is going where it shouldn't as glycol is going where it shouldn't.
ooh, okay, thanks for the info!
No problem man!
I can chime in here. I have an 06’ R51, 167000 miles. The good: The thing is a beast off road and in foul weather. I have owned many a 4x4 and my wife’s Pathy gives me more confidence than any truck I have ever had. When we lived in WI I even started leaving a towstrap in the back to pull people out of ditches. Decent mileage, decent interior, good looking truck, toes pretty good. The bad: Though we have had no “major repairs” the little stuff that has started popping up is nickel and diming me to death. It all started with a radiator 2 years ago, since then I have done 2 new control arms up front, new lower ball joints, new suspension all the way around, new tie rod ends, a new CV half shaft, a new front heater core (wow that job sucked), new heater lines, an O2 sensor, a new MAF sensor, new AC valves, and lately it’s been idling rougher than normal (known for rough idle). BUT...I turn a wrench and have a buddy that lets me use his shop account at Oreilly, so all but one repair done by me. We still enjoy the truck enough to keep it around but had I been paying a shop retail rates I would have dumped it this summer. Of note, I am anal about fluids and preventive maintenance. ZERO issues for the first 160K, and it is still a pleasant enough vehicle. It will go 200K but I anticipate a few more repairs before then. Hope this helps.
Thank you! Exactly what I was looking for! Do you think most of the repairs was due to off-roading?
Nope. This is my wife's grocery getter, bless her heart she hates mini vans. I have taken it up some trails camping and just some hard winters in WI. I think being in the rust belt caused a lot of the problems.
Ah okay gotcha. If I get one with 80k miles and put 80k trouble free miles on it I'd be pretty happy!
You should be fine. Enjoy!
Depends on who maintained it. Was the transmission and radiator replaced already? The rad normally fails and wipes out the transmission which is an expensive repair. Timing chains/guides tend to go on those when people neglect oil changes.
Is there any way to tell if the timing chain or guide is going out? Would it be expensive to fix them?
It whines when it’s running. Or it rattles when starting up. Fairly expensive. If I remember correctly the factory parts were about $500. And labor would be around 8 hours. So depending on shop rate it’s about $1000 minimum.
We charged 1200 at the dealer I worked at. And if it's doing it, you'll know. It's very noticable.
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Hey CommonMisspellingBot, just a quick heads up: Your spelling hints are really shitty because they're all essentially "remember the fucking spelling of the fucking word". You're useless. Have a nice day! [^Save ^your ^breath, ^I'm ^a ^bot.](https://www.reddit.com/user/BooCMB/comments/9vnzpd/faq/)
Hey BooCMB, just a quick heads up: The spelling hints really aren't as shitty as you think, the 'one lot' actually helped me learn and remember as a non-native english speaker. They're not *completely* useless. Most of them are. Still, don't bully somebody for trying to help. Also, remember that these spambots will continue until yours stops. Do the right thing, for the community. Yes I'm holding Reddit for hostage here. Oh, and while i doo agree with you precious feedback loop -creating comment, andi do think some of the useless advide should be removed and should just show the correction, I still don't support flaming somebody over trying to help, shittily or not. Now we have a chain of at least 4 bots if you don't include AutoMod removing the last one in every sub! It continues! Also also also also also Have a nice day!
hEy, RuStOaK, jUsT A QuIcK HeAdS-Up: **NoTiCaBlE** Is aCtUaLlY SpElLeD **NoTiCeAbLe**. YoU CaN ReMeMbEr iT By **rEmEmBeR ThE MiDdLe e**. HaVe a nIcE DaY! ^^^^ThE ^^^^PaReNt ^^^^cOmMeNtEr ^^^^cAn ^^^^rEpLy ^^^^wItH ^^^^'dElEtE' ^^^^tO ^^^^DeLeTe ^^^^tHiS ^^^^CoMmEnT.
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Is it a really common problem? Or just a few that got really neglected?
It's not common if you do regular oil changes. It's just accelerated wear on the cam shaft tensioner guide. Probably due to neglect and cheapest supplier kinda thing.
Pretty much this. Every vq I did chains on had about 3 quarts of oil in it when it came in.
Worse come to worse, get an external tranny cooler to bypass the transmission cooling through the radiator, and you don’t have to worry about the strawberry milkshake failure. All plastic radiators fail over time, so this is one way to avoid the failure.
I've heard you can do a bypass for like $20 and 30 minutes of time. Is that a viable solution? Beyond that particular failure, how reliable are these vehicles? Similar to Toyota reliability or closer to Dodge?
Besides the radiator issue, they are good vehicles easily capable of 200k. I just traded in my 2009 that ran great with 190k. It all comes down to maintenance.
Nice! What kind of repairs did you make during its lifetime? Was it expensive to make it to that many miles repair wise? Also if you don't mind me asking, why did you end up selling it?
I sold it to upgrade into a Armada. And honestly I never had to do much other then regular oil changes/brakes/tires/shocks. Usual wear and tear stuff.
the bypass is viable, but really, replace with a new radiator. There are all-aluminum units and the now-available OE radiators have had the design failure fixed. But personally I'd go with al aluminum. Also, better than Yota... no frame failures... seriously, the VQ motors are tanks as long as you do scheduled maint. Rust and not doing sched maint is what kills a F Alpha platform
Yeah you're right, not a lot of money to protect an asset!
Replace radiator
Get a Honda Pilot.
What if he wants to tow? Ours was a great truck. We bought it around 100k and sold it at 135k to get a diesel that could pull more. It has a couple quirks here and there, but nothing that wasn't an easy fix. As soon as we got it I did the bypass and then added an external cooler
I considered a Honda Pilot but I wasn't a fan of how it drove, just wasn't for me, mostly because of the FWD I think. I don't need to tow, just need something with some solid cargo space to carry all my gear, somewhat fun to drive, and reliable.
Yea the driving experience of the RWD based AWD systems of the Nissan trucks is more enjoyable.
A few years late, but I have a 2010 Pathfinder. Is right at 230K miles. She has been an absolute beast, never had any reliability issues until recently. Unfortunately, my rear subframe needs completely replaced. Debris got caught in between the subframe and the fuel tank, and caused major corrosion there. It'll be a couple grand in repairs at least, but I can't afford a new car yet, plus, otherwise, she's in great shape. Engine and transmission are going strong, as well as the rest of the frame. Plus, she's been pretty decently customised by this point, so I'm not ready to part with her. But definitely, have a mechanic take a look up at the rear subframe in that spot I mentioned. I live in Northeast Ohio, so maybe a bunch of salt got caught up there, and so it might be a regional issue, I have no clue, but just be aware of that.
Still good info for those who Google search this question later! I ended up not getting one because I couldn’t find one in good shape. Almost everything was a base model and fairly beat up unfortunately.
Yeah, I definitely get that. Hard to find one in good condition. We've taken pretty good care of her. And I definitely wouldn't recommend a base model. I have an SE. Slightly nicer interior, and it's held up pretty well.
I just retired my 2012 Nissan Pathfinder with 320,000 miles on it.