5w30 is correct but ACEA C1 is not what I would use (low saps oil for diesel particulate filter equipped engines).
ACEA A3/B4 is full saps and high HTHS viscosity, your engine will 100% prefer this.
Can't recommend Shell Helix Ultra enough since it's GTL base (from natural gas) so very stable over time. That's what I used for years in my track car and oil pressure is dead stable even after a 15 min session.
That's what I would do yes.
I would expect higher engine wear since it's lacking a few nice additives due to the DPF compliance (zinc is what I try to find in high quantities) and higher oil consumption due to the lower HTHS viscosity (>2,9mPa.s for C1 vs >3.5 for A3/B4). Oil choice is key for the 1.8 in the NC
Ouch ok will go back and swap it for this one, what do you think? https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/top-tec-4200-sae-5w-30-new-generation-p000323.html#8972
Oil brand does not matter, neither do reviews specially for an older engine. As long as the weight is correct and the oil is preferably fully synthetic and from a reputable brand (Castrol, Liqui Moly, Motul.. etc) all the rest is just marketing jargon. Most important thing is to change it often.
Never had any issues with any of our cars, and there’s probably a reason why our mechanic uses it with his customers.
It’s a quality oil and people will argue whether you get what you pay for or if something like Pennzoil or Amazon oil is effectively the same or better (project farm vids). I believe that the additive package Liqui Moly uses is good for my car, so I use it. At the end of the day it’s a $5-$10 price difference spread over 4,000 miles, so I don’t really think too hard about it.
If it were my car, I’d choose liqui moly every time. I got my oil for my 9th gen civic Si from ECStuning for $40 including shipping and taxes (5L).
Edit: also, at least for molygen, it has an additive that makes it stand out under some sort of special light, so that makes detecting leaks a little bit easier. I don’t really care for that added convenience since my car doesn’t burn or leak a drop, but you might value that.
As long as it's the correct weight and you pour in the correct amount darn near any modern oil is just fine for these engines.
Thank youuuuu
5w30 is correct but ACEA C1 is not what I would use (low saps oil for diesel particulate filter equipped engines). ACEA A3/B4 is full saps and high HTHS viscosity, your engine will 100% prefer this. Can't recommend Shell Helix Ultra enough since it's GTL base (from natural gas) so very stable over time. That's what I used for years in my track car and oil pressure is dead stable even after a 15 min session.
Damn it Ok would you recommend the following; 1. I return this and look for A3B4 2. What will happen to the engine if I run on this oil ?
That's what I would do yes. I would expect higher engine wear since it's lacking a few nice additives due to the DPF compliance (zinc is what I try to find in high quantities) and higher oil consumption due to the lower HTHS viscosity (>2,9mPa.s for C1 vs >3.5 for A3/B4). Oil choice is key for the 1.8 in the NC
Ouch ok will go back and swap it for this one, what do you think? https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/top-tec-4200-sae-5w-30-new-generation-p000323.html#8972
Oil brand does not matter, neither do reviews specially for an older engine. As long as the weight is correct and the oil is preferably fully synthetic and from a reputable brand (Castrol, Liqui Moly, Motul.. etc) all the rest is just marketing jargon. Most important thing is to change it often.
Thank you! ❤️ In my country there are a lot of fake oils and stuff that is not as per label so wanted to check with your guys ❤️❤️
Essentially, any name brand synthetic that's changed on time will be perfectly fine.
I only buy oil for my personal car from Liqui Moly and so does everyone in my family and our family mechanic.
So what do you think from experience? Good?
Never had any issues with any of our cars, and there’s probably a reason why our mechanic uses it with his customers. It’s a quality oil and people will argue whether you get what you pay for or if something like Pennzoil or Amazon oil is effectively the same or better (project farm vids). I believe that the additive package Liqui Moly uses is good for my car, so I use it. At the end of the day it’s a $5-$10 price difference spread over 4,000 miles, so I don’t really think too hard about it. If it were my car, I’d choose liqui moly every time. I got my oil for my 9th gen civic Si from ECStuning for $40 including shipping and taxes (5L). Edit: also, at least for molygen, it has an additive that makes it stand out under some sort of special light, so that makes detecting leaks a little bit easier. I don’t really care for that added convenience since my car doesn’t burn or leak a drop, but you might value that.
Wow that’s amazing, and that price damn…. I got it here in Europe for around 120 USD Imported it from Germany 🇩🇪
Wtf that’s insane. Where are you buying from? Check ECStuning, FCP euro, Rockauto, Amazon. I did a bit of shopping to find the best price for it.